CIHM 

Microfiche 
Series 

(Monographs) 


n 


ICMH 

Collection  de 

microfiches 

(monographles) 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microraproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  da  microreproductions  historiquas 


(c)  1 998 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes  /  Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best  original 
copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this  copy  which 
may  be  bibliographically  unique,  which  may  alter  any  of 
the  images  in  the  reproduction,  or  which  may 
significantly  change  the  usual  method  of  filming  are 
checked  below. 

Coloured  covers  / 
Couverture  de  couleur 

□ Covers  damaged  / 
Couverture  endommag^e 

□ Covers  restored  and/or  laminated  / 
Couverture  restaur^e  et/ou  pelliculie 

I     I  Cover  title  missing  /  Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

I    I  Coloured  maps  /  Cartes  g^ographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (I.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)  / 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bieue  ou  noire) 

□ Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations  / 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

□ Bound  with  other  material  / 
Reli^  avec  d'autres  documents 

□ Only  edition  available  / 
Seuie  Edition  disponible 

□ Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion  along 
interior  margin  /  La  reliure  serree  peut  causer  de 
I'ombre  ou  de  la  distorsion  le  long  de  la  marge 
int^rieure. 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restorations  may  appear 

  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these  have  been 

omitted  from  filming  /  Use  peut  que  cerfaines  pages 
blanches  ajoutees  lors  d'une  restauration 
apparaissent  dans  le  texte,  mais,  lorsque  cela  ^tait 
possible,  ces  pages  n'ont  pas  et^  film^es. 

□ Additional  comments  / 
Commentaires  suppl^mentaires: 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire  qu'il  lui  a 
6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details  de  cet  exem- 
plaire qui  sont  peut-6tre  uniques  du  point  de  vue  bibli- 
ographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier  une  image  reproduite, 
ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une  modification  dans  la  m6tho- 
de  normale  de  filmage  sont  indiqu6s  ci-dessous. 

I    I  Coloured  pages  /  Pages  de  couleur 

I    i  Pages  damaged  /  Pages  endommag6es 


Pages  restored  and/or  laminated  / 
Pages  restaur^es  et/ou  pellicul^es 


Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed  / 
Pages  dteolor^es,  tachet^es  ou  piqu4es 


I    [  Pages  detached  /  Pages  d6tach6es 

I  y  I  Showthrough  /  Transparence 

I   71  Quality  of  print  varies  / 

I — I  Quality  inegale  de  I'impression 


Includes  supplementary  mater  ■ '  / 
Comprend  du  materiel  s  .1  "I     - 1'  lire 


I  I  Pages  wholly  or  partially  •  .  j.-io  by  e.'-rata  slips, 
' — '  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  rej.. ,c ic  ensure  ihe  best 
possible  image  /  Les  pac.  .  totalement  ou 
partieiiement  obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une 
pelure,  etc.,  ont  6te  filmees  a  nouveau  de  fafon  a 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 

j  I  Opposing  pages  with  varying  colouration  or 
' — I  discolourations  are  filmed  twice  to  ensure  the  best 
possible  image  /  Les  pages  s'opposant  ayant  des 
colorations  variables  ou  des  decolorations  sont 
filmies  deux  fois  afin  d'obtenir  la  meilleure  image 
possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checlced  below  / 

Ce  document  est  fitm4  au  taux  de  rMuction  indiqu^  ci-dessout. 


lOx 

14x 

18x 

22x 

26x 

12x  16x  20x  24x  28x  32x 


The  copy  filmed  h«r«  hat  bMn  raproductd  thanks 
to  tha  ganarosity  of: 


L'axamplaire  filmA  fut  reproduit  grace  d  la 
ginAroait*  da: 


National  Library  of  Canada 


BibHothSque  nationale  du  Canada 


Tha  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  tha  condition  and  legibility 
of  tha  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  spacificationa. 


Las  images  suivantas  ont  M  reproduites  avac  le 
plua  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettet*  de  I'exemplaire  filmi.  et  en 
conformit4  avac  las  conditiona  du  contrat  da 
filmage. 


Original  copies  in  printed  peper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  whan  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copiea  are  filmed  beginning  on  tha 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  imprasaion. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprim^e  sent  filmis  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
derniire  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration.  soit  par  le  second 
plet.  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmAs  en  commen^ant  par  la 
pramiira  page  qui  comporte  una  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  darniire  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
amprainta. 


Tha  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 

shall  contain  the  symbol  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meening  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
derniire  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole        signifie  "A  SUIVRE '.  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  retios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  ere  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hend  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  etre 
filmis  A  des  taux  da  reduction  diff^rents. 
Lorsqje  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  etre 
reproduit  en  un  seu.  cliche,  il  est  film^  d  partir 
de  Tangle  sup^rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  i  droite. 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'imagas  n^cessaira.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrant  la  mithoda. 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

MICROCOPY  RESOLUTION  lEST  CHART 

(ANSI  ond  ISO  TEST  CHART  No  7) 


d    -APPLIED  HVMGE  Inc 

^       IS")}  t^m:  M.I  ■ 

Rochester,  New   ■  ' ^ 


I- 


I 

i 


With  the  Tibetans  in 
Tent  and  Temple 


NARRATIVE  OF  FOUR  VEAKS'  RKSI- 
DINCE  ON  THE  TIBETAN  BORDER,  AND 
OF  A  JOURNEY  :NT0  THE  FAR  INTERIOR 


Fleming  H.  Revell  Company 

Chicago,  New  York  <Sf  Toronto 
PuHiihtrt  of  Svangtlical  LUtraturt 

M  C  M  I 


TO  THE  MK.MORY  OK  MY 
HUSBAND  WHCSB  HEART 
AND    LIFE    WERE  GIVEN 

TO  THE  TIBKTANS  THIS 
VOLL'ME     IS  ni'.DICATF.n 


PREFACE 


In  the  following  pages  I  have  Attempted  to  nar- 
rate briefly  the  events  of  four  years'  residence  and 

travel  among  the  Tibetans  (1895-1899).  The  work 
does  not  ain.  at  literary  finish,  for  it  has  been  writ- 
ten innler  iiie  stress  of  many  public  engagement;  . 
It  is  sent  forth  in  response  to  requests  xind  sugges- 
tions received  from  friends  in  all  parts  of  the 
United  States  and  Canada. 

If  I  may  succeed  in  perpetuating  and  deepening 
the  widespread  interest  in  the  evangelization,  of 
Tibet,  already  aroused  by  the  p.-ess  and  platform 
accounts  of  the  missionary  pionr  '•ing  herein 
described,  I  shall  be  glad.  To  th  .nd  I  hav- 
incorporated  in  the  narrative  as  tnaay  data  con- 
cerning the  customs,  beliefs  aii-1  social  conditions  of 
the  Tibetans  as  spai*  ^-^uld  al.ow.  My  close  •  n- 
tact  with  the  people  during  four  years  has  enabled 
me  to  speak  with  confidence  on  these  points,  even 
when  I  have  found  myself  differing  from  great 
travelers  who,  because  of  their  brief  sojourn  and 
rapid  progress,  necessarily  received  some  false 


PREFACE 


impressions.  The  map  accompanying  the  book 
shows  the  route  of  the  last  journey  undertaken  in 
1898  by  my  husband,  myself  and  our  little  son,  and 
of  which  I  am  the  sole  survivor.  Leaving  Tankar 
on  the  northwestern  frontier  of  Chinese  or  Outer 
Tibet,  crossing  the  Ts'aidam  Desert,  the  Kuenlun 
anc.  Dang  La  Mountains,  we  entered  the  Lhasa  dis- 
trict of  Inner  Tibet,  reaching  Nagch'uk'a,  a  town 
about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  the  capital. 
In  describing  this  journey,  such  portions  of  Mr. 
Rijnhart's  diary  as  I  was  able  to  preserve,  and  also 
his  accurate  geographical  notes,  have  been  of  inesti- 
mable value  to  me. 

My  thanks  are  due  to  Rev.  Mr.  Upcraft,  Baptist 
missionary  at  Ya  Cheo,  China,  for  photographs  from 
which  some  of  the  illustrations  were  made.  And  I 
am  especially  grateful  to  Prof.  Charles  T.  Paul,  of 
Hiram  College,  w'^o  placed  at  my  disposal  the  fruits 
of  his  many  years'  study  of  Tibctiana,  and  rendered 
me  invaluable  assistance  in  the  preparation  of  the 
manuscript. 

Susie  C.  Rijnhart. 

Chatham,  Ontario,  Canada. 


CONTENTS 


CBAPTBR  PAOB 

I.  To  THE  Tibetan  Border. — Mission  in  a  Bud- 
dhist Lamasery — Preparation  for  the  Journey 
—Across  China — Impressions  by  the  Way  9 
II.  Amoni;  i  iiK  Lam.as. — Arrival  at  Lusar — Strange 
Lama  Ceremonies — Medical  Work — Our  Tib- 
etan Teacher— First  Experience  with  Robber 
Nomads  a? 

III.  A  MoHAMMF.DAN  Rebklmon. — Moslem  Sects — 

Beginnings  of  the  Struggle — Our  Acquaintance 
with  the  Abbot — Refuge  in  the  Lamasery — 
The  Doctrine  of  Reincarnation  .      .  50 

IV.  With  the  Woi  ndki).— Refugees  at  Siniiig — Our 

Isolation  at  Kumbum — The  Siege  of  Shen- 
Ch'un— To  the  Battlefield— A  Ride  for  Life- 
Rout  of  the  Mohammedans  ...  68 
V.  Missions  and  Massacres.  —  Bible  School  at 
Lusar — Mohammedan  Revolt  at  Sining — Ter- 
rible Slaughter  by  Imperial  Soldiers— The 
Fall  of  Topa— Peace  at  Last  ....  86 
VI.  The  Lamasery  dk  Ki  mium. — Tibetan  Lama- 
series— Legend  of  Tsong  K'aba — Origin  of 
Kumbum — The  (Sold  Tiled  Temple  and  Sacred 
Tree — Nocturnal  Devotions  and  Worship  of 

the  Butter  God  loa 

VII.  A  Buddhist  Saint. — Mina  Fuyeh's  Abode — His 
Previous  Incarnations — Mahatmas — Conver- 
sations on  Christianity — Jambula — Behind  the 

Scenes  130 

VIII.  Our  Removal  to  Tankar. — Tankar  and  Sur- 
roundings— A  New  Opportunity — Ani  and 
Doma — The  Lhasa  Officials — Drunken  Lamas 
— Visit  of  Captain  Wellby       .       .      .  .133 


CONTENTS 


IX.  Distinguished  Visitors,— Mr.  Rijnhart's  Ab- 

sence—Our House  is  Robbed— Visit  of  Dr. 

Sven  Hedin— Tsanga  Fuyeh— Mtdical  Work 
among  Nomads— Birth  of  our  Little  Son  155 

X.  Among  the  Tanguts  of  the  Koko-Nor.— Tan- 

gut  Customs— Journeys  to  the  Koko-Nor— 
Nomadic  Tent-Life— A  Glimpse  of  the  Blue 
Sea— Robbers— Distributing  Gospels  .  .170 
XL  Toward theTibetan  Capital. —Lhasa the  Home 
of  the  Dalai  Lama — Need  of  Pioneer  Work  in 
Inner  Tibet— Our  Preparations  for  the  Jour- 
ney  ig, 

XII.  Farewell  to  Tankar.— Leaving  Faithful 
Friends— Our  Caravan  Moves  Off— Throu^rh 
the  Grass  Country-  to  the  Desert— Two  Mon- 
gol Guides ........  205 

XIII.  In  the  Ts'aidam.— The  Ts'aidam  and  its  People 

—Polyandry  and  Cruelty  to  the  Aged— The 
Dzassak  of  Baron g— Celebration  of  Baby's 
Birthday — Missionary  Prospects     .       .  .219 

XIV.  Unpopulated  Districts.— Crossing  the  Kuenlun 

Mountains—"  Buddha's  Cauldron"— Marshes 
and  Sand  Hills— Dead  Yak  Strew  the  Trail- 
Ford  of  the  Shuga  Gol— Our  Guides  Desert 
Us— Snow  Storm  on  the  Koko-Shilis— We 
Meet  a  Caravan— The  Beginning  of  Sorrows  23a 
XV.  Darkness  -Nearing  the  Dang  Las— Death  of 
our  Little  Son— The  Lone  Grave  under  the 

Boulder  245 

XVI.  Beyond  the  Dant.  La.— Accosted  by  Official 
Spies— Our  Escape— The  Natives  Buy  Copies 
of  the  Scriptures— Our  Escort  to  the  Ponbo's 

Tent  254 

XVII.  Nacch'uk' A.— Government  of  Nagch'uk'a— 
Under  Official  Surveillance- Dealings  with 
the  Ponbo  Ch'enpo — We  are  Ordered  to  Re- 
turn to  China— Our  Decision   ....  265 


CONTENTS 


XVIII.   Ox  THE  Caravan  Road.— The  Start  from  Nag- 
ch'uk'a  with  New  Guides — Farewell  to  our 

Last  Friend— Rahim  Leaves  for  Ladak— 
Fording  the  Shak  Chu  Torrent — Reading  the 
Goispels — A  Day  of  Memories  .... 
XIX.  ArT.vcKED  BY  Min  NTAiN  J<i.ii)iii;Rs.— We  Cress 
the  Tsa  Chu— Suspicious  Visitors— A  Shower 
of  Bullets  and  Boulders— Loss  of  Our  Animals 
— Our  Guides  Disappear — The  Dread  Night 

by  the  River  

XX.    Ot  R  Last  Days  Tocether.— The  Robbers'  Am- 
bush—The Worst  Ford  of  all — Footmarks  and 
a  False  Hope— A  Deserted  Camp— The  Bed 
under  the  Snow— Mr.  Rijnh.irt  Goes  to  Native 
Tents  for  Aid,  never  to  Return 
XXL    Lost  and  Alone.  — Waiting  and  Watching — Con- 
viction of  Mr.  Rijnhart's  Fate — Refuge  among 
Strange  Tibetans — Their  Cruel  Treatment— 
The  Start  for  Jy^kundo  for  OflRcial  Aid  . 
XXII.   Wicked  Tibetan  Guides. — The  Apa  and  the 
Murder  of  Dutreuil  de  Rhins — Conference 
with  a  Chief — New  Guides,  Treacherous  and 
Corrupt— The  Night  Camp  in  the  Marsh— We 
are  Taken  for  Robbers— A  Lamasery  Fair 

XXIII.  A  Friendly  Chinaman — A  Protector  at  Last— 

I  Receive  a  Passport  from  the  Abbot  of  Rasbi 
Gomba— A  Lama  Guide— Battle  with  Fierce 
Dogs— Arrival  at  Jyekundo— No  OflScial  Aid  . 

XXIV.  More  Robbers.— From  Jyekundo  to  Kansa— 

DifSculties  with  Ula— At  the  Home  of  the 
Gimbi— Corrupt  Lamas— Attacked  by  Drunk- 
en Robbers — Deliverance  .... 
XXV.  Safkat  Last.— The  Approach  to  Ta-Chicn-Lu— 
My  Pony  becomes  Exhausted— Long  Marches 
with  Blistered  Feet— Chinese  Conception  of 
Europeans— Among  Friends  Once  More- 
Conclusion   

Glossary  


275 


2S9 


30a 


312 


325 


342 


357 


377 
399 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 


Tibetan  Woman  ANP  SON  ...  Frontispiece 
Map  Showing  Dr.  RijNHAKT's  Journey  .  ,3 

KDFR  Types 

Tin; I  AN  BuDOHisT  Layman 
MiN.v  Fl-ykh    .  . 
Tangut  Robbers 
A  Tibetan  Traveler 
Tibetan  Coracle 
Crossing  a  Rope  Bridge 
Petru!?  Rijnhart      .  . 
Thf.  Author  in  Tiketan  Costume 

A   TiKKTAN  II.irsK 

Manx  Stone  with  Inscki:.;  '.  Prayer 
A  Wall  ok  Tea  Bale.s 


22 

109 
120 

iSS 

214 
201 
282 
302 
312 
326 

346 
362 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


CHAPTER  1 

TO  Tin:  TH!1;TAN  liOliDKU 

Mi^Jsion  in  a  Buddhist  J.aiiiii.-crv — rrcpnration  for  the 
Joiinicy — Actors  China — 1  ni|)iv>si()ns  by  ilic  Way. 

On  lliL'  :^l()]ics  of  two  liills  in  \hv  iiroviiiic  nl"  Anulo, 
on  ihi'  exlivuii'  northwi'.-ti'in  ( 'huiu  riU'iini  I  rmitiiT, 
nestles  the  great  hunasery  of  Kunibiun,  famed  among 
the  devottrs  ol'  Buddha  as  one  t<{  t/ie  liolit'>t  spots  on 
A^iatic■  soil.  As  a  c-enttT  of  P>uddlii<t  learning  and 
worship  it  is  known  in  the  remote  parts  of  China,  ilau- 
ehuria,  Mongolia,  and  in  ai.  the  Til)etan  territories, 
even  to  thi'  foot  of  the  Himalayas,  and  is  estimated  to 
lie  -croud  ill  rauL  only  to  l.h:'  the  Tilictan  eajiital. 
it  is  the  seolusive  residence  of  some  four  thou>and 
lamas  and,  at  festive  seasons,  the  goal  of  pilgrimages 
from  all  Buddhist  countries  contiguous  to  Tibet.  Desir- 
ing to  carry  on  missionary  work  among  the  Tihetau';  we 
left  America  in  the  autumn  of  1,  having  Kumbum  as 
our  point  of  destination.  We  expected  to  make  our  home 
and  establish  a  medical  station  at  Lusar,  a  village 
which  may  be  called  the  secular  part  of  the  lamasery, 
where  the  lamas  do  their  trading,  and  which  is  only 
about  live  minutes'  walk  from  the  lamasery  proper. 

9 


I 


10 


WlTir  THE  TIBETAN'S 


The  cou.-i(k'nili<)ii.^  which  k-tl  u>  to  K'lect  Lusar  as  a 
basis  of  operations,  bt'sido-i  it:^  i>ro\iinit.v  to  the  hima- 
sery,  wore  as  rullow!?:  ily  husband,  .A[r.  IVrrns  Rijn- 
hari.  ahniit  three  yearj-  previous  had  (oiiecived  the  idea 
oi'  eiUermy  Tibet  fur  niissiouary  |nir|i<i>t'>.  frum  the 
Chinese  side.  From  tlie  experienees  >i'  Hue  and  Ualx't, 
the  Lazarist  fathers,  who,  following  a  route  through 
T.ntary  and  China,  had  gained  free  accc-s  into  ihe  fnr- 
biddeu  land,  he  was  convinced  that  the  antipatliy  to 
foreign  intru.-ion  everywhere  manifested  in  the  vigi- 
lantly guarded  passes  of  the  Himalayan  frontier  south 
and  west  did  not  exist  to  any  extent  on  l!ie  iioithca^t- 
crn  border  between  Outer  'I'ihet  ainl  Cliina.  In  this  he 
was  right.  Crossing  the  Chine.-e  Empire,  he  had 
reached  Lusar  in  1892,  had  resided  for  ten  months  in 
the  vicinity  of  tlie  lamasery,  had  been  well  received  by 
the  priests,  who  caUed  liiin  a  "  wi!  le  lania  from  tlic 
U'est,"  and  had  labored  diligently  to  make  iaiown  liie 
G'ospel.  His  work  had  consisted  principally  of  private 
conversations  with  the  lamas,  and  of  short  journeys 
among  the  nomad.-;  of  the  surrounding  country,  preach- 
ing and  teaching,  and  wielding  wliat  little  medical 
knowledge  he  possessed  in  the  treatment  of  the  sick. 
Among  his  patients  were  people  of  high  and  low  de- 
gree, lamas  from  the  great  monastory.  Tibetan  and 
Mongol  chiefs  of  the  Koko-nor  tribes,  ullleials,  mer- 
chants, shepherds,  and  even  robbers.  The  huerest  witii 
which  his  ministrations  were  received  gave  him  great 
encouragement  and  deepened  the  intense  longii.g  he- 
had  already  conceived  for  the  evangelization  of  the 
Tibetans,    ilany  wuii  wlioin  he  (  aine  in  contact  had 


i 


TO  TIIK  TIBKTAX  BORDKH 


11 


never  .-eeii  a  ICumiR'aii  nor  Iioanl  the  iiiiiiir  nf  ('hii-.!. 
Some  ol  the  laiuus  said  the  Clinetiau  UocUiae  \\ati4m^ 
good  to  W  true;  others  inquired  why,  if  the  doctrine 
were  true,  ilie  C'!iri>tian.s  had  waited  "no  luanv  moon« " 
ht'fore  scndiiiL''  them  the  ;;linl  tiiliiiLr-.  During  one  of 
lus  itinerating  journev.-s  ""a  li\iug  hudJlia  "  with  his 
train  of  dignitaries  came  to  the  tent,  having  heard,  as 
lie  said,  that  .\  man  with  a  white  face  had  come,  and, 
billing  at  tlie  feet  of  the  wliite  stranger,  the  Budd'ii>t 
leaeher  lit-tonod  with  rapt  attention  to  the  wonderful 
btoiy  of  the  world's  Saviour,  During  his  sojourn  no 
olTicial,  either  Chinese  or  Tibetan,  asked  for  his  pass- 
port, or  questioned  him  as  to  his  intentions  of  penetrat- 
ing to  the  interior.  Tims  under  circumstances  un<>x- 
pectcdly  favorable,  surrounded  by  good  will  and  ho,.- 
pitalily.  an.l  free  from  that  prejudice  and  c.-pionage 
with  whieh  i'-n-eigjiors  npproiirhing  the  Tibetan  border 
arc  u.-ually  regarded,  he  had  had  ample  opportunity  of 
studying  the  life,  needs  and  disposition  of  the  peojjle, 
and  his  knowledge  gave  us  assurance  of  the  reception 
that  au-aited  us  at  the  lamasery  village.  Again,  Lusar 
was  advaiUageous  from  a  topographieal  standiioint,  be- 
ing situated  near  the  juncture  of  several  important 
highwpys;  one  leading  to  China,  another  to  ^klongolia, 
and  still  another,  the  great  caravan  route,  leading  U) 
Lhasa.  Hero  we  could  easily  receive  supplies,  and 
would  be  likely  to  come  in  contact  with  the  people  on 
a  large  scale,  owing  to  the  amount  of  traffic  that  passes 
along  the  groat  roads.  Also,  the  surrounding  country 
being  inhabited  by  a  cosmopolitan  population  compri- 
ing  :\longols,  Chinese,  Tibetans,  and  a  few  Turkestani 


12 


WITH  TUi:  TIBKTANS 


Mohammedans,  it  was  a  g«K)tl  place  in  which  to  bccorao 
cMiiVLTsaiil  with  till-  liiiigiiiij,'i's  we  .-IphiIU  rLMjuirc,  look- 
ing forwanl  ;is  wvix'  to  Ji  lil'i  -lniig  snjourii  in  tlio 
ivgiuns  uf  (  (.■iitral  .\,-ia.  Wo  Iffl  America  for  our  dis- 
tant field  without  any  human  guarantee  of  fuiiiiort. 
for  we  were  not  -hmiI  out  by  any  niisiiiionary  >o(  u  iy. 
Althougli.  through  Mr.  IJijnIiart's  lectures  in  IloHauil, 
the  United  Stales  and  t'aaaila,  consideraljlc  interosl 
had  been  aroused  and  many  friends  won  to  the  cause  of 
Tibetan  niisf^ions,  yet  onr  \  i~ildo  resources  were  limited 
at  liest.  We  \\(Mit  I'nilli,  however,  with  a  eouvietion 
Avliich  auiounted  to  absolute  iru.-l  lital  lioil  Wduld  I'ul- 
fU  Ilis  promise  to  those  who  "  seek  first  the  Kingdom," 
and  continue  to  supply  us  with  all  things  necessary  'or 
carrying  on  tlie  work  to  wliich  lie  had  called  us.  Froin 
the  outset  we  felt  that  we  were  "  thrust  forth  spe- 
eially  for  pioneer  work,  and  although  anticij>aling  dif- 
liculties  and  sacrifices  wo  were  filled  with  joy  at  the 
prospect  of  sowing  pr(H  iou>  >vrd  on  new  ground. 

Our  party,  coasiating  of  Mr.  Kijidiart,  his  I'ellow- 
worker,  Mr  William  Xeil  Tergui-on,  and  niyseli",  sail- 
ing from  I  Pacific  Coast,  had  decided  to  follow  sub- 
stantially the  ^ame  route  across  China  which  Mr.  Rijn- 
Iian  had  taken  un  his  former  journey.  From  Shanghai 
lip  tl'.c  Yangtse  to  llaukuw  wo  would  go  by  steamer; 
thence  by  house-boat  up  the  Han  as  far  as  Fancheng, 
.-ituated  about  four  hundred  miles  up  ilie  river.  The 
remainder  ui'  the  journey  would  be  eompleied  overland 
by  cart  and  mule.  We  had  endeavored,  bei'oro  leaving 
America,  to  c(piip  ourselves  as  well  as  possible,  not  only 
against  the  long  journey,  but  also,  in  view  of  our  pros- 


TO  THK  TlBETxVN  BORDKR 


13 


p'jttive  rcf^idi'i  .  0  far  Iroin  civilization,  wiili  ilio  possi- 
bility of  being  temporarily  cut  off  altogether,  owing  to 
tlif  fro(iiioiit  rebellions  that  take  place  in  Central 
Cliina,  rcMidcriiifr  tlic  pas>iise  of  iniiils  nml  sujiplies  un- 
certain.   Our  store-s  were  conlaiued  iu  thirteen  lurge^ 
ponderoiis  boxes,  and  consisted  of  clothing,  culinary 
utensils,  and  othor  jjortable  domestic  necessities,  medi- 
cines, dental  and  .-urgical  instrunient.s  fire-arms  and 
ammunition,  photographic  materials,  books,  including 
copies  of  the  Scriptures  in  Tibetan,  and  stationery,  be- 
sides compasses,  thermometers,  a  sewing  machine  and  a 
liieyele.    In  Shanghai  we  added  drugs  clothing,  food 
for  the  river  journey,  Cliinosc  brazen  oil  lamps,  trinket- 
for  bartering,  and  other  articles.    Knowing  the  advan- 
tage of  traveling  in  native  costume,  each  of  us  donned 
a  Chinose  -uit.   It  was  my  first  experience  with  oriental 
attire,  and  I  shall  not  .soon  forget  it.    After  adjusting 
the  unwieldy  garments  to  my  own  satisfaction,  1  at- 
tended a  service  in  the  Union  Church,  where,  to  my 
consternation,  I  diseovercd  I  had  apiieared  in  public 
with  one  of  tlie  under  garments  outside  and  dressed  iu 
a  manner  whieh  siiocked  Chinese  ideas  of  propriety. 

Mr.  Eijnhart,  on  account  of  his  thorough  knowledge 
of  Chinese,  was  able  to  make  excellent- arrangements 
for  our  passage  into  the  interior.  As  the  war  with  Ja- 
])an  was  then  raging  and  the  country  in  an  unsettled 
state,  there  were  difficulties  to  be  anticipated;  nor  was 
there  anything  inviting  in  the  thought  of  doing  two 
thousand  miles  in  midwinter  under  such  exposure  as 
would  be  entailed  by  the  i)riniitive  modes  of  oriental 
travel.   Yet,  if  one  holds  to  progress  with  any  comfort 


14 


WITH  THE  TIBKTAXS 


worthy  the  name,  there  arc  reasons  for  making  the 
journoy  (Inriiio-  the  hibern.-.tin-  period  of  the  greater 
portioii  (,r  tlio  in]iahilaut.s  of  Cliina,  namelv,  tho  ver- 
minous I 

Our  first  stage  up  the  Yangtse  was  made  in  a  steamer 
"'■"in,.,l  ly  Kngiish  otlir.Ts  ;„„1  ,,  Vhinosc  crew.  There 
was  a  soil-,'  of  -..(tiiitv    which  aftoruards  we  sadlv 
hKk<'.l.  -n  da-  fcrliiig  thai  ilic  great  river  was  but  an 
arm  ot  tlie  gentle  Pacific  that  laved  our  native  shores 
strcl.  hod  far  inland  as  if  to  assure  us  of  protection. 
Ou.  first  sf.pping-place  was  tlie  city  of  Hankow,  an 
inipuitant  coiumorcial  centre  situated  at  the  con(hiene.> 
of  the  Han  and  Yangtse  rivers,  and,  following  the  sinu- 
oMtKs  of  the  Yangtse,  distant  about  eight  hundred 
iuid  (ilty  miles  from  the  seaboard.    The  citv  was  full 
of  .tir  on  our  arrival.    The  people  wore  intensely  ex- 
cited over  the  war,  and  signs  of  military  activity  "were 
nil  rxery  hand.    The  spacious  harbor  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Ilan  jiresoiited  tlio  iipnearaiuo  of  a  forest  of  ,ua<ts 
m  which  all  the  ships  of  Tarsi, i,h  and  of  the  world  had 
congregated  in  one  dense  fleet.      Thev  were  chiefly 
house-boats  and  cargo  junks  that  usually  ])lv  up  and 
do.\n  the  river,  but  conspicuous  among  them' wore  the 
high-noopod  transporf>,  their  decks  crowded  wi'th  blue 
and  red  Jacketed  soldiers  on  their  way  to  the  scene  of 
action. 

Wo  took  i.as<.oe  for  Fancheng  in  the  inevitable 
house-boat,  a    nn,^,  chiinsy-looking  scow  divided  into 
three  compartincnts ;  the  captain's  cabin  at  the  stern 
inhabited  by  himself,  his  wife  and  little  child  ;  another 
long  cabin  for  the  passengers,  situated  amidships  and 


TO  THE  TIBETAN  BORDER 


15 


wparatcd  rrom  tlif  iorniLT  by  a  uiovaljle  partition;  and 
a  space  at  the  how  where  the  crew  discharged  the  func- 
tions of  eating,  sleeping  and  working.  Under  each 
compartment  was  a  hold  for  the  helongirgs  of  its  occu- 
pants. On  the  rare  occasions  when  tli«.'  winds  weie 
favorable  the  sails  were  sufTicient  to  i)ropel  the  awkward 
craft;  otherwise  she  was  pidlod  along  by  the  sturdy 
trackers  on  the  shore.  In  i\kv\  w-.W'^v  eaptain 
steered  by  means  of  a  prodigioii>  rudder;  in  the  shal- 
lows he  managed  with  a  long,  stout  bamboo  pole.  This 
mode  of  traveling  was  not  without  its  amenities.  The 
weather  being  line,  and  the  scenery  along  the  river 
banks  charming,  we  frer[uenlly  disembarked  and  Mcnt 
afoot,  and  occasioned  no  little  commotion  as  we  passed 
through  the  villages,  a  foreign  woman  being  an  object 
of  especial  interest.  Crowding  around,  the  people 
would  haiidie  my  clothing  and  ply  me  with  questions, 
evincing  a>tonithnient  at  the  >ize  of  my  feet. 

The  villagers  were  mostly  of  the  agricultural  class, 
and  aijpeared  to  be  verv  industrious.  The  door-yards 
were  tidy,  as  were  al>o  the  farm;  •  "cry  availalde  fuot 
of  land  being  cultivated.  Everything  about  the  houses 
betokened  an  air  of  freedom,  even  the  pigs  and  chick- 
ens being  allowed  to  go  in  and  out  at  will.  Signs  of 
religious  life  were  not  wanting.  In  one  villa.^e  we  came 
across  an  old  temple  mo&tly  in  rtiins,  in  the  one  re- 
maining corner  of  which  were  ten  idols,  some  incense 
bow  Is  and  sticks,  while  near  by  lay  the  huge  bell,  silent 
and  long  siiiee  fallen  from  its  lofty  place.  In  the  even- 
ing the  people  flocked  to  the  old  ruin  to  worship  amid 
the  sound  of  firecrackers  and  the  beating  of  a  huge 


10 


WITH  TUI':  TIBHTAXS 


gong  l)V  tlic  ill Icinlaiit  [)ri(.':-l,  iiiwl  ii.-  []\v  wcin!  h)Uih1.-' 
wuro  tarried  afar  ami  rc-cflioed  in  the  cold,  still  cvcu- 
iiig  air  there  was  about  tln'  wlnilc  >cciu'  a  toialuiig 
[iittun'S(jiicncfS  not  unni'mgli'il  with  soloniiiity.  Christ- 
mas day  I'ound  us  still  on  Aw  liou>c-'''>at.  and  with  it 
came  many  pleasant  memories  of  that  glad,  festiv  sea- 
Min  iu  the  homeland,  and  many  ivtlections  coiKerninir 
China">  tcciuiiiir  millions  to  \vh(mi  the  Christ  of  Beth- 
lehem was  -till  a  stranger. 

On  January  'i  we  reacheil  Fancheng,  none  the  worse 
for  our  river  journey.  A  hearty  wclroinc  wa-  given  us 
hy  the  resident  Scandinavian  nii>>ionaric-.  .Mr.  .d  Mrs. 
Matson,  .Mr.  and  Mrs.  Woolin,  and  Mr.  ^lieiiui.-l,  whom 
we  found  engaged  in  a  most  valuable  work.  Besides 
preaching,  they  conducted  a  boys'  school,  and  at  the 
time  of  our  vi.-it  wvw  ein  ting  a  sclio'i!  for  girl-.  Our 
stay  in  Faneheng  was  brief,  ju>t  long  enougli  to  get 
through  the  unenviable  ami  fceemingly  endless  prelimi- 
naries to  an  overland  journey  by  cart.  The  hiring  of 
the  carts  was  itself  no  little  matter  even  with  the  assist- 
ance of  our  Scandinavian  friends,  but  linally  the  piao 
was  signed,  by  which  we  secured  two  carters,  with  two 
large  carts  and  a  small  one,  to  take  us  to  Signan.  By 
the  Word  "  cart  '"  this  Cliinoe  vfliii  le  i>  l)ut  faintly  de- 
si-riiH'd.  It  consists  of  a  ihuu-y,  bulky  frame  set  on  a 
single  axle,  innocent  of  springs,  its  two  wheels  fur- 
nished with  tires  several  inches  in  width  and  in  thick- 
ness. The  frame  is  covered  by  an  awning  of  malting  to 
shelter  the  tra\cler  and  his  baggage  from  the  heat  and 
rain.  The  tuialier  carls,  constructed  on  the  same  plan, 
are  generally  painted  and  have  a  cloth  covering  with 


To  riii:  TiiiKTAX  Ju>j;j)i:u 


ir 


M  iii.lnw.  in  tlic  sides  Tho^o  carts  are  drawn  in  China 
In-  iiiuk's  (.]•  ill  .Mongolia  by  taiiifli  or  oxen.  In 

many  of  tlio  principal  roads  deep  grooves  hove  been 
I  worn  l.y  the  constant  passing  of  the  great  wheels,  and, 
I  I  lie  length  of  the  axle  ditfering  in  the  various  districts, 

the  grooves  are  nut  e^inidi^qant  on  all  roads  so  that  i; 
oeeasionally  happens  that  at  certain  jniietuivs  all  axh- 
Imve  to  be  change-!.  At  Tung  Kuan,  for  m.tance,  a 
i'"vii  situated  at  the  meeting-place  of  the  provinces  of 
Mi-'iisi,  Shansi  and  Ilonan,  this  operation  i,>  nc(•e^^arv. 

Ou  January  11  we  were  ready  to  start.     We  had 
taken  the  precaution  to  fnrni.^i  our  cart  with  a  straw 
nnit tress,  some  pillows  and  comforters,  to  provide 
a.-ainst  the  jolting  which  we  knew  awaited  us.  Our 
ho.xes  being  already  in  position,  after  ScriiHure  n  adin- 
with  the  missionaries  our  little  caravan  moved  o£ 
Two  of  the  missionaries  accompanied  us  outside  the 
City  gates  to  bid  us  (lod-.^peed,  and  it  was  onlv  after  we 
had  parted  ways  with  tliem  that  w.   ivalized  we  had 
liMlly  set  out  on  the  most  dithcult  part  of  our  jour- 
ney across  the  Celestial  Empire.    The  road  from  the 
-fart  was  very  uuvxvn,  a  fall  of  two  feet  being  not  un- 
r-'iiimon.    I  reeeiM'd  a  severe  butnp  on  the  head,  and 
experienced  so  many  changes  of  position  and  came  so 
iiv-iuently  and  emphatically  into  collision  with  various 
portions  of  the  cart  as  to  have  remembered  that  springs 
are  not  a  luxury  of  cart  travel  in  China. 

Carters  are  .supposed  to  make  a  certain  stage  ea.  h 
day,  and  inns  are  found  at  the  end  of  each  stage  for 
the  accommodation  of  travelers.  In  order  to  cover  the 
iccpured  distance  we  were  frequently  on  the  way  in  tho 


18 


\vi  I  II  riiK  Tii',i;  rA\s 


middle  of  ihi.'  ni.ulit.  and  oven  though  travrlmg  from 
long  bcfoiv  daylight  until  ''ufk  we  were  not  alwavf- 
able  to  reach  an  inn.  At  sueh  times  one  must  either 
sleep  in  the  cart  or  put  up  in  a  farmhouse.  Even  the 
regular  inns  are  by  no  means  inviting.  We  first 
stopped  in  one  "f  tlu'st.'  thirty-five  miles  fruni  Fan- 
chcng.  It  was  a  llimsy  structure,  with  great  crevices 
gaping  in  the  walls,  iu  which  were  rude  lattice  win- 
dows with  paper  panes ;  the  ceilings  were  composed  of 
bamboo  poles  nailed  across  the  rafters,  fmin  wliicli 
cobwebs  hung  in  profusion:  the  sleeiiing-room  had  wn 
floor,  and  the  bed  was  as  hard  as  boards  could  make  it, 
>pringless  of  course,  and  destitute  of  covers.  But  one 
welcomes  any  variation  from  the  tedium  of  a  Chinese 
cart  journey,  and  after  the  jolting  of  the  first  day  can 
rest  even  in  a  Cliinese  inn. 

One  night,  having  failed  to  make  the  refpiired  ttage, 
we  sought  shelter  in  a  native  hut  on  a  hillside  and 
slept  on  the  k'aiig,  an  article  of  furniture  which  no 
traveler  in  Western  China  soon  forgets.    The  l/nini  is 
a  sort  of  elevation  built  across  one  end  of  the  room,  le- 
serabling  a  hollow  platform,  the  top  sometimes  cov- 
ered with  flat  stones.    It  serves  the  purpose    '  all  the 
principal  articles  of  furniture  iu  an  o-^eiden!  ■i>e— 
chairs,  stove,  bed  and  table.    It       ..arme         ■  lire 
placed  in  the  box,  and,  when  the  surface  isi    .  ueratdy 
heated,  one  may  recline  with  comfort;  but  on  this 
►  niixlit  the  k'muj  was  so  hot  that  we  soon  became  niiconi- 
fortalih^  beinir  almo>t    na-ted  on  one  -ide  and  frozen 
on  the  other.    We  weie  finally  ublig'-d  to  get  up  and 


To  Tin;  TIIiKTAN  BOHDKU 


lake  out  all  the  fiif.  and  at  last  fell  agleep  from  sheer 

cxhaiK-liou  ;ii)J  (.lf-i)iiir. 

A  foreigner's  fias^purt  in  China  enable;;  him  to  pass 
free  of  ehaige  all  custom?,  and  also  the  ferries  that  are 
n^ualiy  round,  in  lieu  of  bridgfs.  jilyin;;  ae^os:^  all  the 
j-ivers  of  eonsiderable  size  which  eiil  the  jTreat  hiL;h- 
ways.  The  ferry  wiiich  took  u.-  across  one  large  river 
was  crowded  with  people  going  to  market  on  the  other 
^ide,  paying  their  pasi^ago,  sonie  with  vegctal)]ep,  some 
with  cash.  The  ferryman  eolluctetl  the  kv  a<  he  sat  on 
the  ground  in  front  of  his  straw  wigwam.  After  con- 
gratulating ourselves  on  the  safe  passage  of  the  river, 
one  of  the  wheels  of  our  luaviot  eart  sank  fast  in  the 
sand,  and  two  extra  mules  had  to  be  hitched  on  to  pull 
it  out. 

Our  carters  were  interesting  fellows,  but  their  knowl- 
edge of  Chinese  polities,  as  of  things  in  general,  was 
limited.  Keferring  to  the  war  with  Japan,  one  of  tlieni 
informed  us  that  Li  Hung  Chang  had  been  made  ]-:in- 
peror  of  China.  Some  of  the  people  through  whose 
territory  we  passed  had  heard  nothing  of  the  war,  and 
oIIkts  said  that  the  Emperor's  subjects  in  France  had 
rebollcd  ! 

China  is  favorable  soil  for  the  flourisliiiig  of  the 
older  culN.  Buddhism.  Coufuciauisra  and  Taoism 
staiidiii,-;-  -ilk'  l>y    Wiv  anil  l.rinu'  largelv  interniin'ded. 

tlunaman  may  with  no  sense  of  ;nr'>!\i;niii v  jirofcss 
all  these  beliefs  at  once._He  would  not  appreciate  Dr. 
Mnitin's  statement  that  logically  the  three  are  irrecon- 
cilable, Taoism  being  materialism.  Buddhism  idealism, 
and  Confucianism  essentially  ethical.    Like  the  state. 


20 


WITH  TlIF  TIBETANS 


lie  nvAv<  n  unity  o\'  ilu  tii  Kv  -wnUuwiiig  n  [lortiun  of 
lacli.'  As  jnuri.i  viMl  oinvaid  llic  iimi  incuts  to 
tliis  c'om]»k'X  religious  lil'i-  iiuTcascd  in  abuntlancc. 
llciv.  jia>siii;.'  tlii'oiiyli  a  lity,  wo  Ih'Iii'IiI  the  "  uMtc-  of 
virluc,"  iinn;<  n~c.  carved  >lniic  arches  spaniiin;,'  the 
-ti-''(t-.  ami  creeled  to  llie  nicnmrv  of  some  sa;ie,  <\r 
jiMiii.-  jHTSon  ;  tlicro,  on  the  liillsiilcs,  reared  to  sonic 
Ikuldliisl  saint.  " -leiie-  nf  ii;c;ii."  nw  the  top^  nt" 
wliich  little  bells  are  lixi  d  thai  tlie  wind  can-e-  ilii'in 
to  ring  out  the  jtraiscs  (d'  the  great  man  long  sinci^ 
l)assed  awa; .  C'avps  also,  formerly  the  aljodes  of  licr- 
mits,  were  pointed  out  to  u-.  ami  colossal  statues  of  the 
iiuddha  hewn  I'mm  the  sidid  rock.  <:azing  d.iwn  upon 
lis  with  an  air  of  sublime  ami  majestic  eaiin,  still  l)ear- 
ing  witness  to  the  zeal  of  the  early  Buddhist  hhikshiis 
who  wandered  forth  from  India  to  make  known  "  the 
Teacher  of  Nirvana  and  ilie  Law."  In  Wi'stern 
Cliiua  nearly  every  farm  has  its  contiguous  gra.veyaru 
in  which  mpy  be  seen  the  tables  whereon  the  jieoplc 
place  their  offerings  to  the  spirits  of  the  dead.  As  we 
reflected  on  the  part  that  the  great  non-Christian  ndi- 
I'ions  have  ]»layed  in  China,  and  on  the  deep-grained, 
.i;;e-long  ini|)re>s  they  lia\e  made  upon  her  peo])le,  the 
magiiitade  of  our  mission  *o  a  peojde  not  less  religious, 
more  superstitious,  and  enchained  in  a  '  uK'r  igno- 
;ance  and  a  more  l;I i-h;  ■  -y~iem.  :;iew  njion  us  _iii 
unwonted  reali/.alion.  Yei  our  faith  did  not  waver. 
In  much  weakness  wc  were  soing  to  undertake  a  stu- 
IH'udon  task — not  in  our  owi  >trength  but  in  His  who 
when  lie  commanded  His  di-cinles  tn  "go  and,  make 

"  A  Cycle  of  Catluiy,  p.  289. 


TO  THE  TIBKTAX  RORDEU 


21 


•li-^'ip].^  ,.1'  all  il,,.  nations,"  aho  promised  "Lo,  I  am 
"i'li  vmi       ih,.  ,|,iv>,  r\,'n  iinio  the  ciitl  of  the  world." 

Cro.-sm^-  il  .-loin'  hndyo  of  stak'ly  nid  anti(iiic  archi- 
tecture, we  readied  the  city  of  Signan,  the  old  ijuin-- 
rial  capital  of  ('Iiiiia.  and  at  present  the  capital  of  the 
province  of  sheii>i.    llciv  our  carter.<  made  arraii^xe- 
juents  Willi  other  carters  to  take  us  on  to  l.aiK  lien,  they 
themselves  returning  to  Fanelieiig.   8ignan  is  the  most 
important  trade  centre  of  the  northern  interior,  the 
li'iiiie  of  the  IliiipiTor  of  a  former  dynasty,  a  eitv  of 
heavy  walls,  pavi'd  streets,  statelv  palaces  and  hand- 
some governmental  buildings.    It  is  the  site  of  the 
famous  Xestorian  tablet  which  bears  record  of  (,'hris- 
liaii  mi»ioiis  in  Cliiiia  as  early  as  the  M'Vfiitli  century 
of  our  era.    'i'lie  surroiiiidiim  eoimtry.  ndieved  hv  un- 
dulating hills,  is  particularly  charming;   great  roads 
branch  off  in  all  directions,  two  of  the  main  ones  lead- 
ing to  Kansu.     The  merchants  of  Signan  carry  on 
liade  in  all  the  siirroiuidinir  provinces,  and  even  in 
Mongolia,  Tibet  and  Turkestan. 

With  our  new  carters  we  set  out  once  more,  although 
iiiifoMunately  for  us  it  was  the  Chine-e  N"ew  Year,  and 
eonso(iuently  vny  di;lieult  to  buy  f.u.d,  ;is  durinc'that 
I'.'stive  season  all  the  shops  are  closed  for  days  together. 
However,  we  did  not  wish  to  tarry  at  Signan.  Bright, 
-miny  days  and  cloudless  skies,  with  nothing  more  "ad- 
verse than  an  occasional  wind  or  dust  storm,  such  ns 
are  common  in  Western  China,  seemed  to  us  to  be 
favorable  conditions  for  ]irrs>ing  on. 

One  of  the  important  functions  in  connection  with 
the  celebration  of  the  Xew  Year  is  the  lantern  festival 


22  WITH  THE  TIUKTANS 

observed  og,  the  fifteoiUU  ol  the  fiial-iuopn,  Arriving 

Lival.  Tl.ioug.a.twa.ln.aon..ther.dew.h 
lighted  lanterns  of  exquisite  and  ^.uI.a  d.M,.;. 
Crowd,  of  people  .ur.'od  up  and  down,  and  all  ua-  UU 

lament'.',       -■'■•vr  0  n;;;;^ 

.hinin"  .l..wn  m  uy  calnuK'^.  upon  .1  all.    Our  lor^e. 
l!;inn.g  rnghtened  at  the  tunndt  and  g  are  o  hglU 
and  at  the  passing  of  a  long  -tr.ng  .  ^  anu  N  n 
bells,  almost  up.'t  our  .art.  ,n  tbm-  Iran  R.  dU.  t. 
ri.iae   onH.vlK.ro.    We  thus  a.Maeled  attention  even 
llainst  our  .  dl,  and  it  was  with  difficulty  that  we  our- 
avoided  l>oing  mobbed.    Relieved  .nd-.d  we  e  , 
when  ^ve  reached  a  nn.e.alde  inn,  wbu  h  a,  our  thoug  n> 
transformed  aUnost  int<.  a  palaee,  as  M  afforckd 
a  haven  of  rest  and  .afety  from  that  brdhantly 

li.dited  festive  street. 

"it  was  a  happv  dav  r.r  n^  when  we  reached  Laneheo 
tbe   a,ntal  ol  Kan-u.  for  we  bad  looked  lorward  to  a 
I-  a  vs-  reMute  u>  that  city.    Shortly  after  wo  had 
i:';;p,uaitorsinaninn.Mr.  ^^-^ 
Inland  Mission.  e:nne  with  a  mes^rge  from  M..  a,  1  Mr  . 
,...,.„;.rn.  extending  to  ns  a  pressing  .nvUatn.n  to  >lop 
borne.    He  had  brought  the  m.ss.on  c.  .  o 
an^port  us,  and  we  soon  found  ourselve.  enjov.ng  th 
ality  c;f  the  mi..onane.    A,  Laneheo  w.  ormed 
be^cquaintan.e  of  ^.^u.  a  Clunaman  who  uu 
.,.aied  eight  year.  ,n  Amerua.  makmg  a  ^P--^  > 
tek-raphv.   He  had  boeiv  up  in  the  new  provuiee  >upci- 
i^tc'nding  the  laying  of  telegraph  lines,  and  m  eom- 


li<il<l)|;K  IVI'ES. 


TO  Till,  '1  lUKTA.V  IlOJail'U 


23 


paiiy  witli  liis  innipanidii-  in  I.aiiclico.  was  nnw  rclurn- 
in    to  IN'kiiiK.    Tlic  (lav  hd'nu-  we  hail  arrivni  he  lia<l 
cJitertauHMl  .\k.>Ms.  liVdlVru  and  .Ma.-ou  at  a  li'a.>t  in  a 
rotnurant,  whore,  of  courK',  oceordiug  to  Chinese  eti- 
'liit  iic,  In.lics  ((niM  not  he  pivsi-nt.    Wishinji  to  enter- 
laiii      all.  he  |.rr|iar(  (|  a  .-iMdnd  I",  a-t.  wliidi  \va-  -crvi  d 
m  !lif  Miiiiig-rodiii  (if  ihr  iiii.vMoii  huii>i',  .m»  ihal  tin,' 
ladies  might  with  proiuicty  attend.    Evorvthiiig,  in- 
cluding (Ii.-lii'>,       l,n,n-lit  from  the  restaurant.  While 
(Ml  the  road  we  had  had  ioii>idcrai)I('  pratticc  in  using 
t  iiopsticlvs,  and  we  tlioroughiy  enjoyed  the  food.  wlii(  li 
was  dainty  to  the  palate  and  artistie  in  appearan(.c. 
Knowinj?  onr  view-  regarding  the  ufse  of  wine  n»  n  Ik'v- 
'TiiuT.  \lr.  Wu         |,.-,Mh\d      '  ..  .p.,  I, -a  in  deganlly 
dfcoraled  loviTrd  china  cups,  and  swcalincats  hv  way 
of  coiiipc  sation.    Chinem'  p(»litene>s  rnlcd  the  feast, 
(.!cli  one  Iieli)iiig  with  his  own  ••hopstieks  another  to 
wlioMi  he  wifhcd  to  show  courtesy.    Among  the  inanv 
dcli(iu  ic<  there  wa-  a  suc!;ii!U'  l>i-  cut  into  little  pieces 
and  cooked  in  a  perf- vt  manner,  also  bamboo  sprouts, 
lily  tubers  and  other  .lishes  of  which  at  the  time  we 
did  not  even  kiK.w  the  names.   Western  people  are  mis- 
taken who  imagine  that  the  onlv  items  in  the  ( 'hine.se 
menu  are  rice  and  rats.    As  cook>  the  Chinese  vie  even 
with  the  French,  and  Pome  of  the  most  delicious  meals 
we  partook  of  while  abroad  wei.-  prepared  by  the  Chi- 
nese.    In  aeknowled-uK'iit  (d"  .Mr.  Wu"s  hospitality, 
.Mrr.  Kedl'eru  in  turn  prepared  a  feast  for  him;  it  was 
a  proper  Engli.^h  dinner,  with  several  kind.s  of  dessert ; 
yet  we  must  confess,  in  point  of  delicacy  the  Chine.<ie 
feast  was  sujierior. 


24 


WITH  Till-:  TIBKTAXS 


After  ;i  few  (lays,  ^Iv.  i;i  julinrt  iiiid  ;\[r.  Forguson 
went        ihc  hi:;-  carl  roa'l  u>  Sliww'  w  iili  ilic  lim'>a.r,>. 
wliilc  I  rciiiaiiUMl  iK'liiiiil  with  Mr.  ami  Mr-.  KcdlViii, 
until  'Sir.  Uijnliart,  who  woiiUl  go  on  Troiii  Siiiing  to 
Lusar  In  ii'Ht  a  hoiist-.  sliouhl  return  for  nio.  I  shall  over 
uraicfully  rcincnili.T  the  iiitcrveniii;:-  ]iK'a>aiit  days  sikmiI 
at  Laiu-licn  and  ilu'  kiinhic>>  i-pci-ivcd  frdiii  the  niissidn- 
arios.    Wuhin  a  few  day>  v  r.  Ifijidiart  cainr  back  and 
announcod  that  ho  had  lu'cii  siietr.<sfiil  in  ka.-in"-  a 
liiiiiM'.  lull  that  c(  Il^id(■ral(k■  rcjiairs  would  ho  ncccssarv. 
\\c  left  the  next  ilav  fur  Sinin<>-.  Mr.  liijniiart  riding  on 
a  hor-i'  and  i   ,ii  a  dniikcy,  liotli  ol'  wliich  had  hc,.|i  nvii- 
crously  loaned  u.-;  liy  .Mr.  Ridlov,  of  the  Cliina  Inlaml 
.AFission  of  Sining.    The  two  animals  had  heen  coni- 
Iiani(.ii>  fur  >u  long  that  •-\licrc\cr  ihc  horse  led  the 
donkey  fnHowcd.  a  fjicl  which  1  appreciated  on  this,  my 
lirst  donkey  ride,  as  it  solved  for  me  the  anticipated 
diiliculty  of  guiding  one  of  tlu^e  proverhially  stuhhorn 
animals  along  steep  and  diftieult  paths.    Xot  far  from 
i.anehe(!  we  arrived  at  the  liranch  id'  the  (ireat  Wall 
which  ero-H-  the  Vellow  1,'iver.  aihi  fonnd  the  ancient 
■tract lire  in  a  very  dilapidated  <oiidition,  hiukeii  by 
!.'nat  gaps  ami  much  worn  hy  the  rains  of  centuries. 
It  was  iioi  inure  than  five  feet  in  height,  and  however 
elleetive  a  defence  it  onci>  nniy  havi'  l;eeii  against  the 
incursions  of  Turk-.  .Mongols  and  Maiiclms.  it  wonld 
not  be  a  serious  obstacle  before  a  modern  army.  There 
are  two  roads  from  Laneheo  to  Sining;  one  for  cart, 
the  other  for  mule  travel.    The  carts  make  the  journey 
hy  the  "hig  road  "  in  leii  days;    hy  the  "short  road  " 


To  Tin:  TIP.KTAX  BORDER  25 

over  '..r^piitains,  tlic  ono  we  had  chosen,  mules  ar- 
ri>    in  liiilf  i!;.-  ,  i  no. 

<  Kihi-i!       ntrv  in-(>MMUs  an  eU'valion  varyiii,i:.  ;)c- 
i'ov.  1-  iM  K'ofLiillV  iiiiu  nii  v.  iVoiii  lour  ilioiisiiiid  to 
nine  thoiwaiid  m-t.    Hilly  ri.lges  run  in  .several  diive- 
tiniis,  >lu  lt(Tiii;:  riniii  the  cold  winds  tlie  fruitful  valleys 
remarkiiMr  I'm-  their  luxuriant  |«rnduc-ti(m  of  ;;raiv<. 
meloiiN   jH'ac-lics   apricots  and   ail   jvinds  of  "-niiii. 
Around  the  city  of  I.ancheo  tobacco  is  grown  in  lar^-- 
quantities  and  ^ornis  the  basis  of  the  city's  industT. 
Part  of  our  route  lay  beside  tlii'  Yeihiw  Uiver.  and  for 
a  tin.e,  also,  we  followcti  the  ru,-hin,--  w.h.t.-  ,,1'  ih,. 
Ilsi-ho,  one  of  its  tributaries.    We  .-aw  Mohanuned.ni 
merchants  coniin--  down  the  river  with  their  cargoes  of 
veir,.fahle  oil.  destined   l',,r  the   Lanrhvo  market.  .,n 
rude  floats  made  of  inflated  cnuli!de<  la>lied  tn^n'thcr. 
How  exciting  it  was  to  see  the  skillful  boatmen  guide 
"lie  of  these  heavily  laden  floats  around  a  sharp  l)end 
in  the  river,  where  the  water  boi'.  d  and  foamed  over 
the  shallows.    Just  when  it  seemed  certain  that  de- 
si ruction  against  .some  sharp  ledge  awaited  the  craft. 
i)y  a  de.vterous  thrust  it  would  be  sent  out  into  the  cur- 
lent  and  carried  jjast  the  point  of  danger  amid  the 
slimits  of  all  the  spectators. 

Passing  over  the  ruins  of  many  villages  whieh  had 
been  devastated  in  the  Mohammedan  rebellion  of  Ls<;i- 
»4,  we  came  eventually  to  a  narrow  gorge  of  consider- 
able historical  importance.  Ascending  the  road  lhat 
skirts  the  precipice,  we  saw  the  river  boiling  below, 
beating  itself  into  foaming  rage  in  protest  against  its 
sudden  limitation.    It  was  in  this  pass  that  the  Mo- 


20 


WITH  THE  TIBETAX^i 


li;iniiiK(]an^  liclil  the  Chiiipso  army  at  bay  during  that 

li!nix!v  lirrinil   finv\  i  |-  lilrllinr;ll)Ic  to  llli'  i llhllbi i  ,1  lllS  of 

Kiliisu,  and  wla'i'e  r.uaiii.  in  Ks')-',  l!icy  ])\v.'x\\  thi'in- 
«C'Ivcs  thousands  strong,  and  soajrht  to  repeat  the  tac- 
tic. JJttU?  did  \vc  tliink.  as  wo  pa.-.<cd  aloii,-!  the  river 
I'llirc  on  a  licaulifu!  >unnv  iia\-.  In'iirath  an  ovcr-an  hijii:' 
^!iv_  of  cloadlt;,<i  biui',  ami  ainiil  ilic  pisifcriil  .^hIiUmI.' 
of  the  mountains,  broken  only  by  ilif  jiaiicr  of  uJiTr 
mals'  hoofs  and  tlw  low  monotonous  thud  of  plunirinji 
t(n'rents,  that  this  very  pbui'  \va-  williiii  a  l'<'\\  wc'ks  to 
a.ii;ain  l!.e  -criH'  of  nnklai'y  inmult,  'illcd  wiib  le- 
f;-ion>  of  iufLuiated,  blo(Hlthir>ty  rebels;  and  we 
dreamed  even  le'^s  that  tlie  massing  of  tlie  .Moliannne- 
dans  liere  to  elieek  the  advance  of  the  Chine.-e  arniv. 
\va-  to  be  tbc  pmvidi'iit ial  di-pensation  wliieh  W'.uld 
j)ievent  ibeiM  from  sweepinn'  down  on  Lusar  and  Kuni- 
ituin,  whi"    tliey  wouhl  liave  found  us  an  easv  prcv. 

The  iHdjilc  of  Kansu  we  found  to  be  frentle  and 
obliging.  They  (|nite  sn-laimnl  tlnir  repntalion  of 
being  less  disagreeaide  than  the  natives  of  other  prov- 
inces, for  they  treated  us  with  the  utmost  kindness >+Td 
di.l  all  in  their  power  to  cxpcditTour  totim^v!  On  the 
i:rth  dny  ai'fer  our  ileparture  from  Laneheo  the  \v;i!h 
of  Suiing  loomed  in  the  di>lance.  and  wo  were  wiibin 
the  gates  in  time  for  afternoon  tea  at  the  China  inland 
^Mission  Home,  where  we  were  cordially  welcomed  bv 
Mr.  and  :\!r-.  Ridby  an<l  Mr.  llall.  Fiftv  //  westward 
lay  Lusar,  ubcrc  our  hon-e  bad  alrcaih  b>'(Mi  secured, 
and  the  glitt_(jxiug  mxels_of  the  great  Buddhist  lama- 
hcry  of  1\ lunbuni. 


CUAl'TER  IJ 


A-MOXO    THE  LAJIAsS 

Arrival  at  Fvusar— Strange  Lama  C'oromonies— Medical 
Work— Our  TilK'taii  Teacher— First  Experience  Witli 
Kobbci  .\i)!iia(l:<. 

Tlic  wc-i'Tii  jinrtioii  (,f  the  province  of  Kansu.  vari- 
(>u-ly  dcnoMiiiialcd  Ity  -co-raplicr-  a-  part  of  Cliiiioc 
or  Outer  Tibet,  is  known  to  lii,.  Tilu'iaiL^  as  Anulo,  and 
the  inlial)itants  are  called  Anido-\va.  According  to 
Chiiiiv-c  cihiLVJiMplirr^  tlic  foreign  popi.  tioii  Atndo 
may  lie  divided  into  two  o-reat  classes  the  T"u-fan,  or 
"  agricultural  l)aritai-ians,""  «  iio  iiave  a  large  adiinx- 
ture  of  Chinese  blood,  ami  tlwH-rt^trm.-fM^V'^M^iitiimJ^ii^ 
hariajis,"  who  arc  of  pure  Tibetan  stock.  The  8i-fan 
live,  for  the  mn.-t  part,  a  nomadic  life  and  are  or^nn- 
izcd  into  a  numi)er  of  bands  under  herditary  eliief> 
responsible  to  the  Chinese  Amhan  at  Sining,  to  whom 
they  pay  tribute.  Chinese  author>  further  say  that  the 
pre:-(>nt  ?id.\ed  pi>|udatir>n  »l'  Anido  i^  tlie  progeny  of 
many  distinct  aboriginal  trilies,  init  there  are  some  ele- 
ments of  it  that  must  be  accounted  for  by  later  imnii- 
;:rations.  Westward  from  Sining  the  road  leads 
iliiMimb  ii  hi-hly  cultivated  plateau:  the  farnn  are 
watered  by  a  i>erfect  sy>teiu  of  artificial  irrigation, 


2^  WITH  TIIK  TlliKTAXS 

iH'iiriii-r  t  vidcM,,.  ,,r  il„.  in<lu.-irv  iuid  .-kill  uj'  ihr  pt^as- 
iiiit.<.  Tir  lioiiM'.-  in  vilhi-t-  all  l,u,lt  of  mini 
and  have  flat  roofs.  On  tlio  r,,ad  uiw  nioois  -rouio  of 
MUTcIiants.  partly  Cliincsc,  hut  hi-aring  a  strong  rcscni- 
'"  'li*'  'I'lii'^  'ind  diMiiigui>hod  hv  a  headdross 
which  Krin>  lo  l.r  a  ■  I'n..  !„.|v.,vn  a  ChiilcM.  ,ap  and  a 
MoAvm  tiirljaii.  ThrM.  aiv  MohaninuMlan^  -om- 
down  Ir.  trade  in  Sinin<r.  N'ext  comes  creepiii.y-  alon- 
:i  -iiinli  raiavan  uf  canirl-niuMnlcd  .Mongolians  or  Tih- 
<l'i''  III  ii.ulv  >!i.N.p>kiii  -.,uii~  and  hi-  fnr 

ciip-.  on  iheir  ua.v  lo  >,v  the  .\nihan  of  Siniiig.  •  per- 
liaps  going  ,„  Kaslerii  Mongolia  or  IVkiii;  or^'one  inav 
iiH'  l  a  proic-Muii  of  Mvarlliy  faced  'I'ihetan  pilgrim.- 
ivlurning  Mngh.  fi!r.  v.iili  ^I-u-  and  Palely  tread.^frotn 
some  ai  l  of  worship  ai  Kunihiini,  io  llu'ir  homes  in 
valley.-  north  nf  Siniiig.  'j'h,.  entire  we.Merii  poiUnn 
of  Kan.-n.  .~o  far  as  its  inhahilants  are  concerned,  marks 
Ihe  IranHimn  heiwrcn  a  piiivly  Chine-.'  pnpidation  and 
a  foreign  pe<.ple,  the  Chinese  predunnnal ing  in  tlie 
larger  centers  hut  the  vilhige.-  and  enranipment>  i,eing 
made  up  hirgely  of  foreign  or  mongrel  iidiahitants. 

.^Ii-.  i.'ijnhai't  Iiad  left  ine  at  Sining  and  had  gone  on 
to  \.ii>i\v  to  eoniiilei.'  the  preparation  our  liou.-e; 
hut  I  had  heeome  imj.atieiit,  not  ha\ing  tor)  much  eon- 
lidenee  in  masculine  ahility  lo  set  a  hou.-e  in  order  in 
:i  way  ali.i-i  thcr  plea.-ing  in  a  woman,  so  I  rode  up  to 
l.u>ar  wiiii  .Mr.  1|,|||.  Hall  a  day's  journev  hron-lit  u< 
within  sight  .)f  tiie  lull,-  liiat  .-urround  Kumhum,  and 
as  wo  approached  we  could  see  .*onic  of  the  lamas  at- 
tending to  their  liorses  or  gathering  fuel.  But  the 
strangest  sigiit  of  all  was  that  of  Mr.  Kijnliart  and  .Mr. 


AM<'.\(;  rii|.;  I, A  MAS 


29 


l'.-ryt..M,„  ,M  Kun.jK.an  rluilun^  ;  .uai.loiucd  had  o.ir 
'•vr.  bm.i.iL'  to  orin.ti.l  altiiv  ilu,t  th.-v  ai.iH.i.ro(l  m<,iv 
IXVolvHim  c-ven  tluu.  uuy  ..f  Da.  raiilastioallv  arrav.'d 
traveliT..  we  had  met  on  tlie  road.  Assi^to.i  hx  <nmv 
"='"v.Mari„.nt..r>.  ,!,..v  had  l,..,.„  very  busy  at  the  hou.e, 
"•'V'  '  '  ''""^'l  -•.■ryt|,i„,:„,  confusion, 

just  as  I  had  amirii-ated.  Vri  I  \va>  ihankrul  tl-  .„. 
lonK  lounu.y  had  hocn  .u.upl.tod,  not  .  .u,.d.  accHk.„t 
worthy  i!,.  ,,;,„„.  Imvi.ij:  liappcne.l  to  i,s  since  we  loft 
tlK-  Im-ilir  (■,,;,>,  of  AnirnVa  H,.  |„.rnn.. 

Li.s-.i-  lM,a>ls  of  a  Miiglr  n.ain  Mnn  uitl,  n.ud-hrick 
(iat-rooled  hnildiufrs  on  either  ,>„l..,  and,  at  .he  time  of 
'"in  inH.d  about  one  H-ousand  inhabitants, 
•■vnly  diMdrd   |„.,u-,rn   .Mn!,a,„m,.,lan>  and  Chinese 
"ilh  a  >i.n„kl,„^.  „r  T.hetan,^  and  Mnn^<A~.    These  dif- 
1 1''''^  'ii.<t.n;;n,.d,ed  by  ibeir  jren..ral 

'l'i;""i'nu-  .,>  urii  as  by  thoir  speech.  The  yinvuA 
Y"'  '"-.Ml.  Hat.  ,u.,d-natun.d  rounlenanco  and' 
^h"M-M,t  ban-,  eJad  ,n  h,s  U,n;  >he.|.k,n  robe.unl, 
bis  n.atehbH.k  thrown  over  bis  sboul.ler,  could  not  be 
"Hstakm  a>  he  waddled  through  the  street  followed  bv 
">  uil,.  a  n.v  pace,  behind  bin.;  ,be  pure  Tibetan, 
ik^'WiM.  robed  in  sbcep.-kin.  lieraided  bis  natinnalitv 
•y  <he  >word  ho  carried  u,  bis  belt.  To  mistake  I 
inianian  .as,  of  course,  beyond  question,  while  the 

'i 'urkeMani  .,n,in  could  be  recognised 
h  lus  a.jui hue  no...  ,•,,,„ 

or  moustache.  lie.ng  th...  tra<ling  station  of  the  Kum- 
l"'"'  l"m".^ory  Lusar  is  visited  by  merchants  from 
>  "I"".  Mnu;Mra  an.]  various  parts  of  Tibet.  Especially 
"unng  the  great  religious  festivals  held  from  time  to 


30 


w  ri'ii  Tin;  rii;i:  i'A.\s 


liinr  at  I  he  l.iin;i.-rry  ji  liri.-k  Inulc  i>  ('oiic  in  altar- 
laiii|i-.  cliarui-l'iixi'.-.  kU)U,  pra\or-\\  liceLs  ami  tlie  other 
liaia|iliornalia  of  Buddhist  worship.  Xear  the  vilhige 
ij^  a  K  11111,1  111  of  an  oUl  wall  vvhicli  evidently  at  pome 
liiiii'  hail  Ih'I'ii  i!.-i'iI  a-  a  raiiijiart  <>l'  ilct'i'iicc.  In  Hue 
and  (iaU'tV  narrativi-  im  Mniiiion  i^  nuulo  of  Lii,-ar  for 
the  reason  that  it  prol)ably  did  not  exi>t  when  tln'-'.' 
travelers  passed  that  way,  the  business  of  the  Kumbiun 
laina-cry  liciii;,'  iIoim'  fornn'rly  at  Shen-cll'un,  a  few 
miles  distant  from  Kiimlmm. 

The  I'hine.-e  tarpentiT>  made  eharadeiM.-l i(  ally  slow 
j)rogress  with  our  house.  The  noise  that  aecompanied 
the  \\ork  was  ai  times  almost  deafening,  the  workmen 
all  >!iniitii!u-  at  once  when  anytliiiiLr  ur^-ent  was  to  he 
done,  rile  house,  situated  at  the  foot  of  a  hill,  the  fa- 
eaile  pointing  toward  the  main  street,  was  a  substantial 
mud-brick  structure  with  Hat  roof,  built  entirely  ac- 
cording to  Chiiioe  idea-  of  architect  lire,  and  after  we 
liad  the  premises  put  in  order  the  di>posilion  of  the 
apartments  was  about  as  follows:  The  main  gate  led 
into  an  outer  courtyard,  walled  but  not  roofed;  from 
the  outer  c<)urt  a  dark,  narrow  pa--age  led  to  the  cen- 
tral or  inner  courtyard,  around  which  the  rooms  were 
arranged  on  all  sides.  In  one  corner  was  the  kitchen, 
and  diagonally  opposite  to  it  a  storeroom,  and  in  an- 
other corner  tlie  stable,  while  along  the  sides  nearest 
the  e'ltrance  were  the  two  gue-t-rooms,  one  for  men 
and  the  other  for  women,  the  latter  containing  a  cu[)- 
board  for  drugs.  The  guest-rooms  we  destined  for  the 
reception  of  visitors  coining  for  me(liial  treatment  or 
to  inquire  about  spiritual  matters.     The  walls  were 


AMOX(J  THE  LA.MAS  31 

liuiig  with  colored  Bible  pictures  whidi  did  u=  1 
x'vuiv  in  Miggcsting  toi)ios  for  religious  come.sat'ion. 
.M.m.v  of  til,,  pirtur,-  ivpiv-ri.tr,]  >crn,.<  in  tlic  life  of 
(  iinst  and  aroused  tlic  naliws  to  llic  a>kin-  of  ,,uc- 
tions>  which  opened  for  us  o(,ld,.n  ..pportunitics  to  read 
liu'  New  Testament  ajul  to  tell  them  more  fully  the 
<i">pH  sr..rv.    Th.'  furnituiv  \\a.  plain  and  scant,  a 
large  taidc  four  feet  Mpiaiv.  a  few  high.  >t  rai^lit-backed 
.■md  very  uncomfortable  chairs,  and  the  indispensable 
l^-'diig.    Ujiposito  the  guest-rooms  were  our  dining- 
room,  study  and  bedroom.    On  the  tw.  remaining  sides 
were  .Mr.  Feigu-on"s  apart  incuts,  our  Chin.-e  ser  antV 
l-edroom  and  a  .-itting-n,„in  where  we  all  met  for 
prayer,  Bible  study  and  conversation.      Access  to  the 
Hat  roof  of  il,,.  1,.kim.  ,„uld  !„■  lia.l  by  means  of  a  ladder, 
iiiul  oftentimes  when  ili,.  wailirr  wa>  line  we  repaired 
thither  to  take  our  c<ni>iitutional,  or  to  sit  basking  in 
tlie  sun    Behind  the  house  on  the  hill  we  afterwards 
ITcparel  ,p,ih.  ,  i,,,v  ,,1,.,,,  ..f  garden,  in  which  we 
'aised  sev,-ral  kin.l>  .,[•  \  .,r..taM(.>  from  s.-ods  sent  to  us 
I'V  a  friend  m  Canada.    Our  housekeeping  was  redin  cd 
to  simplicity.   Han-kia,  our  Cliinese  "  bov.  "  aged  about 
Mventy-two  v.  ais  -unn  l,,,rned  under  mv  tuition  to  pre- 
pare nianv  kii;,!.  „f  t",..,,!  i„  Kn^li^h  «,r  A  rican  stvlo 

"•1*1  twice  a  week  he  regaled  u.  with  ^nun.  liavii).' 
110  oven  in  our  stove,  we  extemj,ori/ed  one  out  ..f  a 
r'"''ili'i  till,  in  which  we  could  roast  meat  and  bake 
Altogether  we  did  not  fare  hadlv  at  Lusar; 
in  the  market  ue  could  buy  mutton,  eg-,' milk,  vege- 
tables, flour  and  rice.  Custom  soon  ilitrodueed  us~to 
'»iir  new  surroundings,  and  when  the  carpenters  liad 


W n  il  Tllj.:  TlliKTA-NS 

tini.^lic.l,  ur  v,,-i-r.  ti.king  it  Jill  ill  all.  as  haj.jn  ill  our 
liu-away,  isolated  Ikjiih.'  as  wc  possibly  could  have  bt'CJi 
ill  America. 

Not  long  after  our  arrival  we  were  visited  bv  .Mr. 
and  .Mrs.  I.'idley  and  t'l-  ir  little  baby  Dora.    Thev  had 

t<'iiic  u])  lor  the  piu-jtoM'  of  recuperating  their  health 
among  the  hills,  and  during  their  sojourn  ue  witnc>>ed 
the  interesting  ceremony  of  burnt  olFermg.^  celebrated 
near  the  Kumbum  lamasery.    Crowds  of  Chinese  and 
Tibetans,  nn'ii.  wmwu  and  children,  had  congregated 
to  bce  the  pl•oee^^ion  of  lama>  i~>iic  fro,,,  i hei i^temph'. 
and,  discovering  that  some  i'oreigner.-.  were  among  the 
throng,  they  turned  their  attention  to  us,  almost  over- 
uhelming  us  with  tl:eir  friendly  curiosity.     It  seemed 
at  times  that  we  would  he  cru.-hed  to  death.   JJeing  sur- 
rounded we  could  not   return  home,  and  we were 
obliged  to  devise  at  once  some  means  of  protection. 
Inviting  th.'  uatin.  women  to  sit  down  bei^ide  us  we 
were  soon  m  the  mid.-l  of  a  large  ;:roup  M,n;,iii„^ 
tailor-fashion  about  us,  serving  as  an  eirceti\e  bulwark! 
preventing  the  crowd  from  surging  in  upon  us.  Mrs.' 
Kulley  drew  tlie  women  into  an  interesting  conversa- 
ti<m,  taxed  to  the  utnio-t  all  the  while  to  keep  them 
from  laying  violent  hands  on  her  bubv. 

The  Tik-tan  women  were  to  us  an  especial  object  of 
mter-st.  (nn>picuous  in  their  long,  bright  colored 
dresses  fa>teiicd  around  the  waist  by  green  or  red 
sashes,  tluir  clumpy  top-hoots  am  their  elaborate  head 
dress.  The  hair  was  done  up  i  ■  a  number  of  sinall 
plaits  which  hung  (lown  the  back  and  were  fastened 
together  with  wide  strips  of  gay  colored  cloth,  or  bv 


AMOXC  Tin-   [.A.MAS  33 


Uva\y  band  ol'  ipaMuLuanl  (,r  I'dt  ^<,\vw>\  uiih  mIvlt 
..niiiim-iits,  .slic-lls  and  beads,  and  011  l,,p  uf  it  all  wa- 
ll hat  Willi  white  fur  brim  and  red  tassels  haii^rin- 
I'niiu  the  poiiitrd  (  n.wii.  Fr,,,,,  th,.  ,H.ndaii1 
.iiTca:  iMi;;.-,  to  win,  h  wnv  all.icli.',!  >tnn-.-  of  beads 
liaii.uiii-  in  lung  ]()■,],..  a(  n..-s  the  lireast.  The  Ciiiiiesc 
women  with  no  hats  their  bhiek  hair  sliiniiig  witli 
linke  d  water,  their  euiuinnn  blue  dresses  and  deformed 
iVct.  were  not  nearly  so  attractive  as  their  neighbors, 
the  Tibetans. 

Presently  the  sound  of  horns,  eyinbals  and  yong,, 
announeed  the  a|.|.n.aeh  of  the  proeession,  and  all  Fn 
"'liruMon   ni>hed  ,,ir  to  >ee  the  si-lit.     lluinlivds  of 
laiiia>,  clad  in  iheir  llowing  ruU'>,  i.-ued  uith  ,-ulenin 
tread  from  the  lamasery,  some  of  tiieni  earryin-,'  large, 
irregular  wooden  frames  painted  red,  blue  aiuryellow,' 
iind  huge  bundles  of  straw.    The  frames  were  .-el  up  in' 
•111  open  plaee,  the  straw  arranged  around  tliein,  an. I 
the  eeremony  of  burnt  oilerings  was  ready  to  begin. 
The  lamas  fired  olf  guns,  chanted  some  unintellig^bh; 
I'l'-aii'      M.S.  Id.'W  deafening  blasts  <m  their  gigantic 
horns,  and  then  set  fire  lo  tlu'  >traw.     The  t'raine- 
wcre  soon  reduced  to  ashe.-,  and  the  purpose  of  the  eere- 
'""iiy,        learned,  was  to  ward  off  the  demons  of 
iaiiiine,  disease  and  war. 

As  .soon  as  tlie  people  found  out  that  we  were  pre- 
pared to  treat  their  ailments  and  dispense  medicines 
they  came  to  us  (piite  freely.  The  Chinese  were  the 
f'l-.-t  to  approach  us.  but  soon  the  Tibetans  came,  even 
the  lama-,  and  it  was  not  long  before  we  had  a<  nnieh 
medical  ..nd  rcbuUaui  gue.-l-juom  work  as  we  could 


3-1  WITH  TllK  TIIiKTAXS 


attfiKl  to.    A>  it  is  iin|jo,<ible  to  get  a  cruwd  of 

'ril  i'li(ii>  to  to  a  .l,-((iur.-f.  (.;ir  .•\ a;;     ..-i :i  \;,.i-;c 

<<'ii.-iM0.1  in  L.,iivi'i>iii-  Clin-uaMMs  uiii; 

tla-  |.fo|)lc  who  canu-  to  .00  a.i.l  u  m  llir  vcrv  k- 
jriniiiii-  \\v  wi  iv  able  to  iiUoro,-t  them  iti  the  toaciiiii^'- 
nf  the  New  Ti-taiiieiit.    The  'I'ii.eiai.s  ll!oni.>elve.-i  ha\- 

iiiy  no  iiuMli.M.l  s-ieiu.   v>,.n:i,   ,|„. 

ment  given  by  llie  native  .lu(iui>  -..un.ilh  nKan>  uu 
uicreaw.'  of  a-ony  to  tiio  (^ulFeror.    For  lieadaeiie  lar;-- 
stiekin-  |,!:i-trr.  aiv  appli,,!  to  the  jKiliuiiV  head  and 
rorclicad;  tor  rhniiiial  i(  ~  nri,.|i  a  n,  rdl,.  j.  |„iri,  d  in 
the  arm  or  sh.ud.ler;  a  luuih  i>  e.Miaeted  l,\  a 
rope  to  it  and  jorkin-  it  out,  sotnolinie^  brin-in-  out  a 
part  of  the  jaw  at  the  ^a!m■  lime;  a  ndrcrer  with 
.-u.maehachc  mav  l.e  Mihjrru.l  u,  a  oo,„i  puuiLlin-, 
or  to  the  a].iili,aiiun  of  a  j.ie.  e  of  wick  soaked  m  hiirn- 
uiff  butter  grea.^^e;  or  if  medicine  is  to  be  taken  in- 
ternally it  will  consist  probably  of  a  piece  of  paper  on 
which  a  pravcr      written,  n.lie<l  uj.  into  tlir  |-Mrn.  of 
iH'llet.  and  il  this  fai!:-  to  produce  the  dcMivd  cfhvt 
nother  pi'liel  is  administered,  cmipo.-ed  of  the  Inmr, 
of  sonu'  pious  priest. 

Alth.-u-li  the  iiatiNcs  a^.pear  to  haw  -nat  lailli  in 
the  native  duct()r>,  yet  they  were  (pii.  k  to  \n'A„\\  their 
l)atrouage  u])on  us.  Among  the  cunmir.n  allIllellt^ 
were  called  upon  to  treat  were  diphtheria,  rheumatism, 
dysp'.psia.  he>i(h's  many  forms  of  skin  and  eve  diMM-e. 
One  morning  a  woman  brought  to  us  her  hu>band.  who 
was  suifering  from  diphtheria,  and  a^ked  n-  to  give  him 
medicine.  After  explaining  that  the  disease  wa.s  very- 
fatal,  aud  that  her  luisbaud  wa.s  so  ill  that  he  woulij 


AMOXU  THE  LAMAH  35 

I>r..l)iil)!y  (Tic,   dding  llmt  we  would  not  l)o  rofponfihlt' 

if  111'  ili'l,  w  v  ^iuc  li.iii  u  ;i;if  Irciil  tiii'iit  wo  coiilil.  iiiclutl- 
iiig  SOUK'  iKcilii  iiic  iM  ■  laki'ii  at  liomc.  'I'lic  nc\t 
morning  liis  wife  ciini'  in  aniKnincf  ih.ii  In-  coiihl  iini 
take  the  nuMliciiic.    I  ilit-ii  ofTcrt'il  w  go  to  tli<>  Iioum'. 

|Hiri)(>>in;:  Id  (  Irai'  auav  mmih'  of  tlic  infiiil)iM;if   1 

relieve  the  ^lltVe|v^.  luu  cm  nur  iirrival  we  t'niiii;!  thai 
a  lanui  had  pa-ted  a  iintice  on  ihe  door  forljidding  aiiv- 
one  to  ontiT  because,  lie  >iii(l.  a  devil  had  taken  pos-jps- 
>!"n  nf  the  house.  We  were  oljliged  tn  I  urn  a\va\  and 
(uir  heart-  were  -iiiM.'UMd  to  liear  two  da\-  lit.M'  that 
the  uiaii  and  ah-o  one  of  hi-  littU'  ehihlreii  had  died. 

Sinep  it  was  our  iiiten'ion  to  work  prineipally  aiiiong 
the  Tihetans,  we  at  niirr  faced  the  piohKMn  of  ac(|uir- 
ing  the  language,  aliliua-h  we  might  have  got  ahmLr 
with  ( 'hinc  -e  ;iioiie  since  all  tile  Tilietans  Oil  ilie  frontier 
^]»'iik  that  laii-uago  as  well  as  their  own;  but  knowing 
that  the  Tibetan  language  would  be  to  us  a  means  of 
closer  coumumicatiMii  wiMi  the  nativf...  we  -et  about 
to  liiid  a  teacher.  .\s  liie  laiiia  ■  are  liie  solv-  ])os-i  --.,r- 
of  Tik-tan  loiters,  the  great  ma.-ses  of  the  lav 
population  being  unalile  either  to  road  or  write,  thev 
wen-  not  over  pleased  with  the  thought  of  coiuniuni!  at- 
iiig  their  sacred  language  to  "  forei^ni  devils,"  and  v,-e 
had  groat  difficulty  in  pcisuading  au_\  one  to  teach  us. 
Filially  a  young,  rather  good  looking  lama,  named 
I-hiiiiiiia.^'^  e,..,.  (•!'»<  d  to  gi'  e  n-  ii:-t inu  a 
uoiiiinal  Mini,  on  (ondiwon  lhat  \ve  vioiih.l  uni  jet  it 
he  known,  for  he  st'ciucd  very  much  afraid,  le-t  >onie- 
oiio  miglit  accuse  him  befcrc  the  suiifj  knan.  or  dis- 

*  Pionounce  E-sliee-nL-c-iina 


36  WITH  THE  TmETAN'S 

nplinarian  of  the  ],u.ias..rv.  ,.r  i..„-  fo„  iri„,i.llv 
t.  ri.H  u  ith  the  foreigners :  f„r  of  voiith'  we  wm- 

lo-Kv.i  upon  uit!,  „„„v  or  Irss  rv^vrvr  an.l  perhap.  with 

a    lltti,.  >U>pi.i'.I..      JMlilUMia    Wil,   nf   ,  |„„„  h,.i.r|,, 

well  l,„ilt,  ami  favore.l  ||„.  .Mn,,^.,!,.,,  ,v,,e  v.iUn-  than 
ll"'  TiMan.  although  he  alwavs  said  thai  he  ua.  „r  ||,.. 
'■'"'•>•  i-nnntap.  ||is  f,.,..  v.,,.  ,H.,k,„ark,..|.  h.it  not 
•IfvuHl  of  ..,\p,vssi(>n.  an.l  uh,.,,  |„.  mmiI.  J  1,,-  ^v]u,\r 
eountenanee  frh,vve,l  with  '^n,u\  |,„n„.r.  II,.  ,|„l  „„i  In- 
long  to  the  highest  elnss  of  lanias,  vot.  not  iunn..' 

"""-I  .,.11  ,|res=;..l,  wearing  the 

l.nnas  unlmarv  hal.,i-  „  .|,  ..,  !... 

^kM•  g,n!,,l  arnwn.l  tiie  uai.-t,  and  a  long.  uid..  s,.,,rf 
carelessly,  vet  alwny,  ]„  the  .anie  manner,  thrown 
^'^■'nu  Uu-  ^\u,u\,],.y..  IIi>  ...armentsweredirtv,  l,nl  not 
[■'-t  '■<'''iv..l  in  pau,„,,t  for 

his  lessons  he  inv..^t..l  u,  doth  at  Sin.ng.  and  1  n,ade 
h.m  garment,  of  it  on  my  .owing  n.a.  hin...  il.  ,oId 
'•■^  that  th."  lamas  were  not  allowed  to  wear  sleeves 
t,-ons,.rs  or  so.-ks  ex.-pt  upon  sp-oia!  o.-.-ano,,..  and 
added  that  on  this  point  tli..  hinias.TV  l,,,d  a  ,,f 
very  strict  laws,  violation  of  whi.  h  entail.d  m  v-t,.  pun- 
.>lnn..nt.  sometin.-s  .ven  expulsion.    Thongh  fshininia 

'I'.-'-MU.r  W..II.  u.  round  to 
our  di.s.ppoimment  that  h.  <<,nU]  not  ..x,,Ia,n  it  k  ,|| 
so  ov,r  lessons  took  a  m.ue  p,,,,!,,,!  turn,  we  giving  hi,,; 
(  h.neso  words  and  phrases  whi.h  he  t,-an.lated  t".r 
mto  |,I„,a„  II,.  .anieto  teach  ns  cvcrv  dav  except 
•Sunday  on  u  hu  h  day  he  alway.  attended  the  religious 
«^rvice  held  m  the  guest-room. 

.    otan   lelongs.   philologieally,   to  the  Turanian 


AMoN'C  Tin:  I.\MAS 


37 


f-iii)il\  nf  l;ni;iU.iLr<'^.  it  i"'  .'--M-nt  i:illy  MiMtio-vlliiliif, 
rfM  iiililiiig  ih  iliis  ri'^iM  rt  ■  i,ii,v  .,  Mil-  I, ill  .f^i  >  of  uiir 
N'orili  Anu'i'ifuii  Ti,  liini-.    Ti  •  -.st"m  is  Iniilt 

up  on  nxtts  with  pr<'t?\c.  uri«l  aftisc.-,  :lif  .-ynt.ix  is  com- 
|iiirntiv('ly  iiiiiiivul- <■  idioni  ''■■nr  ami 
pri'->ivc.  Tlic  alpliuiu  !,  .ipu'd  fiom  ihc  Suti-krit  by 
Tou-mi-f.  :ii-lilio-tii  ,t  I  lied  'ril»ctaii  scholar  and  statcs- 
tiian.  al»oiii  i.-.';]  A,  D  .  aff-  nis  a  Hiar»('t»'r  simplo  ami 
ia>il\  t'.tnni  .i  run  iiii^^  -i:  n-jly  uitli  tho  iiiiulirous 
i;lypliic>  '■{  t!ic  l  iiiii>'>c.  'I'lK'n  m.  two  principal 
dialect.-  of  the  l.m;fiiap — -Lli.i-a  I'dictaii,  .-iipimM.'  to 
l».  Me  stnndanl  of  oxccl!"  c,  and  EasfiTM  filx'tan. 
wlucli  vari'  from  it  to  •  "idcrablc  (!v;.rr,.,..  TIw 
l\nki)-iior  I'ilir  aiis.  in  t'acr.  ...ivc  <jrc;it  <!illi' ;  tv  m 
under.'!  a  lid  in;,'  liic  s|m'c.  Ii  ci  Llia>a  trailers  and  lamas. 
For  coII(M|uial  purposes  wo  were  particularly  interested 
in  tilt  i;a>li'rn  Tihetan,  tli'iii<;li  of  i  uir.-c  if  <  m'  donires 
to  read,  the  Lliasa  iImIcci  nnist  lie  learned,  as  that  is 
I  he  literary  language  of  the  count  rv. 

Om  professor  yielded  to  none  in  the  matter  of  un- 
eleanliness,  henee  we  made  it  our  endeavor  to  in.still 
into  his  niMid  snrne  idea  of  liy<riene.  After  some  in- 
.■-truclion  he  learned  t"  n.se  the  towel  and  .-soaj),  and 
thuujrh  the  lamas  have  a  rule  not  to  allow  scissors  to 
!■  iieh  their  head.s  when  luiving  their  hair  cut,  he  al- 
lou-ed  hi-  head  to  !»•  shaved  hy  the  clipper-,  which 
Were  an  endlesp  source  of  woi  der  and  intere-t  to  the 
native-.  By  degrees  he  took  on  an  appearance  of  de- 
cency, and  began  to  show  sonu'  signs  of  interest  in  new 
ideas.  Reinir  somewhat  of  an  epicure  ho  went  freely 
into  tlio  kitclien,  .supervi-ing  the  preparation  of  the 


38  WITH  THE  TIBETAXS 

dainties  for  which  ho  had  a  preference.    He  taught 
our  Chn\v>r  Mi-vant  to  make  oma-ja,  a  decoction  which 
the  Til),  tans  drink  with  jrrcat  rclisli.    Tlie  ingredients 
arc  implied  in  tl,o  name— a  pieie  of  bri.k-tea  is  put 
into  a  pot  of  water  and  allowed  to  boil  a  lew  niiiuite^, 
tlirn  ah(nu  half  as  much  milic  as  water  is  added,  and 
the  wliok.  br(Mi-lit  to  l.oilin-  point  again.    When  later 
we  were  with^nt  a  servant,  our  hov  liavin-  frone  to 
enhst  as  a  soldier,  I.«hinima  would  make  the  m'icn 
Instead  of  cutting  it  into  strips  he  would  cut  it  into 
squares,  and  add  it  to  water,  meat  and  vegetables, 
nudiing  a  palatable  and  substantial  dish.    Thou^di  we 
studied  hard  at  our  Tibetan  and  endeavored  to  under- 
stand the  people  and  to  communicate  with  them,  wo 
did  not  make  the  progress  we  should  have  made,  the 
eau:ic  of  this  bein-  that  hv  tau-Iit  ns  a  mixture  of 
Tibetan  and  Monguiian,  which  was  to  a  large  extent " 
unnilelligible  to  either  people.    In  this  and  other 
things  we  found  him  unreliable,  and  some  of  his  actions 
bordered  on  dishonest  v. 

Soon  after  we  had  made  his  acquaintauee,  l>iiininia 
invited  us  to  his  home  in  the  Kumbuiu  lamaserv,  and, 
liavuig  set  Ins  house  in  order  for  our  visit,  he  came  to 
•voort  us  ihi.IuT.  Crussing  the  ravine  which  divide.^ 
Ivunibnm  into  two  seetion.s,  and  threa.lmg  our  wav 
along  narrow  alleys  and  past  rows  of  wliitewasheil 
<Iwel!inrs.  we  finau.v  stood  before  one  of  the  putcmio^t 
and  best  huuM.s  of  the  lamasery.  The  court  vard  presented 
a  tidy  ai.p..araiice,  and  was  graced  bv  a  tiow.-r  irardm 
in  the  center,  in  which  some  velio«-  poppies  u'tc  in 
bloom.    Several  red-robed  lamas  with  bare  head.s  and 


AMOXr;  TITE  LAMAS 


39 


..-iniliiig  faces  gave  us  a  ^longol  welcome,  holding  out 
toward  us  both  hands  with  the  palms  turned  upward, 
and  immediately  ushered  us  through  a  small  room  into 
a  still  >iiial!i'r  one.  of  wiiiili  the  L-'kh;/  cowwd  the  en- 
tire lloor  Tpon  the  door  hung  a  t-urtain,  laden  with 
the  dust  and  grease  of  ages.  The  furniture  was  that 
usually  found  in  a  lama's  home.  There  was  the 
l.  'diHj  table,  about  ten  inches  in  hoiglit,  on  wliich  were 
placed  some  china  ba>ins,  a  briirlilly-painted  Immha 
dish,  and  a  wooden  plate  containing  bread  fried  in 
oil,  none  too  inviting  either  by  its  taste  or  smell.  The 
walls  of  the  room  were  adorned  with  the  pictures  wliich 
we  ourselves  had  given  to  our  host,  and  which  with 
llieir  western  flavor  seemed  (piite  out  of  keeping  with 
the  rude  interior.  During  a  ve.y  pleasant  conversation 
about  the  groat  monastery  with  its  revered  lamas  and 
sacred  traditions,  about  Lhasa,  the  home  of  Buddhist 
learning,  and  of  the  great  Dalai  Lama,  about  the  doc- 
trines of  Christianity,  and  alx)ut  the  great  western 
world,  of  which  Ishinima  knew  next  to  nothing,  we 
drank  tea  and  partook  of  other  refreshments  which  the 
latter  had  prepared  with  his  own  hands.  According  to 
custom  he  offered  us  a  large  lump  of  rancid  butter, 
which,  had  we  been  as  polite  as  our  host,  we  should  have 
dropped  into  our  cup  of  tea  in  lieu  of  sugar;  but  know- 
ing Ishinima  so  well,  wo  refused  the  dainty  morsel,  al- 
though to  have  done  so  under  any  other  circumstances 
would  have  been  consitlercd  little  less  than  insult.  Jii; 
was,  moreover,  so  thoroughly  eharnied  wif!i  ^Ir.  Rljn- 
hart"s  tele-((.iie  .1  ciiin'i;.  ;■  „c  might  have  igrtored 
ail  Tiiietan  politene.-s  with  iin[!U!iity. 


40 


WJTII  THE  TIBETAN'S 


After  tea  we  wore  conducted  across  the  courtyard 
to  Ishinima's  i)rivate  iliapcK  or  room  containing  his 
household  altar  and  in>trnnu'nts  of  worship.  Upon 
the  altar  sat  several  iliininutive    but    none  the  less 
hideous  brass  and  clay  idols,  representing  various 
ISu.ldiiist  divinities,  before  whith  were  burning  small 
butter  lamps,  also  of  bra-s,  tilled  with  melted  l)ulter. 
each  furnished  with  a  wiek  and  darting  up  its  little 
flame.    Other  Hat  brazen  vessels  of  water,  some  khatuA 
or  •• -carl's  of  cerei  ony  "—narrow  strips  of  veil-like 
elotli,  corresponding  in  use  to  the  western  eartc-dc- 
visiit— ,  a  le  v  mu.-ty-looking  tomes  of  Buddhist  liiera- 
tuR,  completed  the  equipment  of  this  domestic  sanctu- 
ary.   We  found  Ishinima  withal  a  most  genial  host, 
exen  iMiig  every  art  within  his  grasp  to  make  our  visit 
pleasant ;  yot  we  were  glad  when  the  time  came  to 
return  to  our  own  clean  and  airy  dwelling  at  Lusar, 
and  we  left  .onscious  tliat  we  had  done  Ishinima  good 
ser\ice  in  ri.iding  liim      a  -vncrous  share  of  tin.  vermin 
in  his  sacerdotal  abode.    Our  battle  with  this  unwel- 
come company  was  to  begin  when  we  reached  home. 

Through  our  friendship  with  Ishinima  we  gained  a 
knowlcd-c  ol  Kunibuin  and  all  that  pertained  to  it. 
whieb  otiierwise  we  might  long  have  sought  in  vain. 
Shortly  after  our  visit  to  his  home  he  accompanied  us 
again  to  the  lamasery  to  witness  an  elaborate  cere- 
mony on  the  occasion  of  the  ordination  of  the  priest 
who  was  to  serve  as  lan\ascry  doctor.  Ishininiii  liavin- 
some  scruples  about  appearriYg~~ind)licly  as  our  guide, 
walked  about  fifty  yards  ahead  of  us,  never,  however, 
turning  a  corner  until  he  assured  himself  that  wo  were 


AMONG  THE  LAMAS 


41 


following.  Havin.ir  arrived  in  the  courtyard  of  the 
temple  whore  tin'  rcirniimy  was  to  be  held,  we  took 
our  places.  Isliiiiinui  -tnndiiiji  at  <miie  diptanco  opposito 
lis  and  scaivi'lv  taking:-  his  eve  nil'  us  from  lirst  to  hist. 
The  walls  of  the  temple  eoxirt  were  hung  with  all  man- 
ner of  fantat-tie  ])ictures  e.\eeuted  in  ilaniing  colors  by 
('hiii('>(>  arti-ts.  In  the  middle  of  the  ciiclosnre  was 
a  long  narrow  table,  similar  to  those  often  found  on 
American  picnic  grounds,  on  which  were  placed  rows 
of  decorated  plates  and  brazen  vessels  of  various 
>!iapes  and  sizes,  containing  tsaiiiba,  rice,  barley,  (lour, 
liread,  oil  and  other  eatables.  These,  we  learned,  were 
oll'erings  which  had  been  bro^.ght  to  be  sacrificed  in 
honor  of  the  new  candidate  for  the  position  of  medical 
superintendent.  A  large  crowd  of  spectators  had  con- 
-ri'gated  and  were  gazing  with  reverent  and  longing 
looks  upon  the  feast  prepared  for  the  gods,  when  sud- 
denly a  procession  of  about  fifty  lamas  broke  into  the 
courtyard,  arrayed  in  red  and  yellow  rohes.  emh  one 
( iirrying  in  his  liand  a  ludi.  As  soon  as  they  had  seated 
themselves  on  the  stone  pavement,  the  imniiha  fuyeh, 
or  medical  buddha,  came  in  and  took  his  place  on  an 
elevated  wiwmIch  throne  covered  with  erini-mi  and  yel- 
l>^\v  cloth.  lie  wore  a  tall,  handsomely  einhroidered 
lial  and  brilliant  ceremonial  robes,  betitting  the  oc- 
i  asion.  The  ceremony  began  by  a  deafening  clatter 
of  discordant  bells,  each  lama  vying  with  the  others  to 
produce  tlie  most  noise  from  his  instrument.  The 
mu.sic  was  followed  by  the  muttering  of  rome  cabalistic 
incantations  and  the  weird  chanting  of  prayers.  Im- 
UK'diately  in  front  of  the  mamba  fuyeh  was  a  large 


i2  WITH  THE  TTRETaX.^ 

urn  in  tho  Ununn  „(  which  lire  was  siiiol,lvriii-,  send- 
ing up  its:  vapory  clrud.s  of  smoke  iiiul  incense?  At  a 
^iven  signi.l  >nni,.  of  the  hm,;,^  ms'  and,  each  one  tak- 
ing up  111  M  hi. lie  ;i  portion  nf  il„.  (jelieious  vianiN  tliat 
stood  on  the  lahh'.  walked  gravclv  to  tlie  nrn  and 
•Iropped  it  into  tho  fire  as  an  olFeriiig  i,,  honor  of  Hip 
licu-  iiinmbo  fii;,rh_.  an.l  finally  a  stn^am  of  li.|nid  whicli 
M-e  took  to  he  M.ine  kind  of  holy  oil  was  pouivd  in  fmn, 
a  Imle  brass  p^.t.  'I'lieii  tlu're  were  rejieiiiion^  of  the 
prayers,  incanfatioii<=  and  holl-ringin-.  and  it  wa>  a 
l'>ii^'  tiMie  eiv  the  w.u.:l,a  fi,;,rh  was  declared  dulv  in'- 
staHed.    The  I'o-:;:..;,  |.,,|,,,      ,.on~;, ;,  ;•,  .]  o-i.. 

of  great  iiupoiMiue.  'Ihe  oliue  in  ii„.  K,:„,i,„,,, 
liiniasery  is  l,eld  for  varying  jieriods  oi  time,  -L  p-nd- 
ing  partly  on  the  incumbent's  efficiency,  but  more  per- 
IiajK  on  the  nniiiber  .d'  hi~  inflnei-tial  friends. 

lake  most  lamas,  hhinim,-:  had  niaiiv  >iraimv  tales 
to  {,.11  of  thM  Koko-r.or.  the  hlu-  inland  >ea.  that  lies 
■■nvay  to  ihe  west  of  Lusar  and  Kunibnm,  far  up  into 
iIh'  gia--  eonniiy.    Many  an  evening  he  entertained  us 
detailing  in  ivvereiit  tones  something  of  ihe  w.^alih  of 
Ifgeml  whieh  tradition  and  the  popular  faiuv  h.ive 
woven  around  that  body  of  water.    It  is  kn.'.wn  bv 
'l'i'"'taii,.  :>dongols  and  Chinese,  each  calling  it  bv  "a 
dill'eiviit  name,  but  the  Mong.d   name  -  Kuko-nnr - 
meaning  ■•  Jihie  Lake,"  seems  to  have  gained  ascend- 
ency.   Its  religious  importance  is  recognized  throngh- 
->"'  •<  l'i'g>'  portion  of  (Vmtral  Asia.    Even  the  Amban. 
the  Chinese  Amha-ador  or  Covernor  of  Vorth-eastern 
Tibet,  who  lives  at    Sining.  makes  a  pilirrima.-e  to 
It  once  a  year  an.l  pays  it  homage.    The  inunediate 


ollVcl  'oi"  l.-hii)iiiia"s  rcprcsL'nlaliuiis  was  to  arou^v  in 
U.S  ail  iiiunso  lo  visit  tlio  lake,  to  maku  llic 

atciuainlance  of  I  ho  Koko-nor  tribes  and  to  ascertain 
the  prosj^cts  for  missionary  work  among  them.  As 
Ishinima  liad  never  seen  the  lake  hiln^;elf.  he  -^eeiiied 
ever  joyed  when  we  a-l.'d  liini  to  ae(()mj)any  ii-. 
The  (hite  I'ur  llie  departure  was^  set  in  the  month  id' 
June  when  the  lu'ls  lind  taken  on  tlieir  luxu'-iant  car- 
!U'tiiig  of  prrecn.  r.w'l  all  naluv':,'  .-et  uu'd  to  conspire  in 
jii-'iilnci iiL'-  idr;i!  ( it.iilit I":!]-  an  cxcui'sion.  As 

\V.  W.  Iloekhill.  the  Ameneaa  traveler,  had.  written 
about  the  opposition  of  the  Amban  and  other  Chinese 
oOieials  to  Europeans  going  into  tlic  gra>>  (ountry,  all 
o'.ir  pi-i'paral ions  \\ere  very  quietly  made.  We  em- 
ployed a  imdeleer  willi  f  >ur  animals,  i-olli'i  ted  ^tores 
for  the  entire  journey  whivh.  going  and  returning,  v. e 
calculated  would  la>l  alio,;'  twelve  days,  and  in  the 
higliest  spirits  slartt'd  olT.  leaving  <iur  home  in  the  care 
of  a  servant.  Ishinima,  perched  high  on  a  load  con- 
>istiug  of  the  tent  and  bale  of  food,  wore  a  large  straw 
hat  with  the  wide  brim  of  which  he  carefully  con- 
cealed his  face  until  we  got  nut  of  tlie  loealily  wliere  lie 
was  known.  IJeaching  Taid^ar  late  in  the  evening,  we 
pitched  our  camp  outside  the  gate.  Anxious  to  avoid 
officials,  we  arose  at  daybreak  and  passed  through  the 
town  to  tlie  we-t  gate,  being  frequently  accosted  by 
men  v>Tio  Vvai;ted  to  drag  us  before  the  Idu-iji'li  at  the 
iiuiiiin;  but  we  escaped  into  the  grass  country,  and 
passed  the  monastery  of  Gomba  Soma,  although  every 
one  \' !'  nv  !  was  looked  upon  as  some  official  who  miglit 
possildy  fi  rbid  us  to  go  any  further.    Ten  milej  fruiu 


^VIT^I  Tin;  tii::  t/  v  : 

<'<"iibi.  .'Souk,,  uiul  >t,Il  .  |,.„,.  ,•,,„„ 
nunped  for  breakfast  near  a  In  ud  „f  the  ll>i-l,o 
\\/'^lorn  Kivcr,  in  a  beautiful  gras,v  .put  .tucldcd  «hl. 
i""^;  ""^ver-.    On  the  ofluT  -i.!,-  uf  tl„.  ,ivor  «-as  sproa.l 
'■'  I'a.ionMua  of  n.Hi,,,.  i,,-,),  ^j^^, 

•■'"■'v  moruing  look.l  like  ,1,,.  ^nvy.  shnuh.nn;,'  |,.„t.  of 
^■■m.  ,>ant  army.    Xovor  .hall  I  for..,  th.  c-al.u  of 
'-aufful  ,l:,y  on  ,h,.  oriental  plateau  far  a^vav 
^'1'  c-ivili.atio„.  nor  within  si..!„  or 
M.uml  ol  ,hv  rude.t  cnoaiupjucnt  or  settlement  ^f  any 

-i'  tlii^  tran.pul  environment  there  was  to 
->■""■  a  ,,rc.ai    .,n,v.t.    Whik-   I>!,inin,,-,  ^ather- 


"'g  ayol,  (ihc  .Mun-olian  uonl  for  ,1.,,  Wr,..! 
of  animal,  which  the  nomads  u>e  fur  fuel,  and  whieh 
""»t  hv  u..ed  in  fa.-t  by  „11  travelers,  as  these  wild 
ivgiuns.,,.  l.nv  „r  .-.„„l,  our  muks  broke  awav  from 
tHber  and  bad  so.)n  seanipcrod  out  „f  <i.ri,;  ^f,, 
K.rguson  and  the  muleteer  s.t.oui  in  ...ard,  of 
>in».no-  animals.    All  day  Mr.  Rijnhart  and  I  wadnl 
wondern,.  b.nv  bulb  ,be  mub.>  and  pursuers  fared.' 
We  knew  notlung  definite  unlii  Mr.  lVr-.,.on"s  return 
at  eleven  o'clock  at  night,  and  be  could  onlv  an- 
nounc-e  that  no  trace  of  the  runaway  mules  b.d  been 
^'"'1  add.,1.  to  our  liorror.  that  he  had  become 
M.parated  Irom  tbe  nndrt.vr  ,„d  did  not  k„uu-  what 
fate  might  have  befalb.n  !,im.    11.  n,iul„  I,ave  b.,  hi. 
way  somewhere  on  the  dn.uy  plain  or  au.ong  the  win<!- 
-",1:  b,! Is.  and  tluT,   v.,,.  the  graver  possibilitv  of  bis 
bavmg  lK.en  bv  wolv,.  or  bnving  fall.,,  int.,  lb. 

bauds  of  the  redoubiabie  Tangut  robbers  who  lurk 


AMO.Xi.  THK  I.AM  AS 


in  iIk'  niviiK';-  ivady  to  iiouiuc  ii|miii  any  pivy,  great 
or  small.  Clouds  of  aiixit'ty  liiiiig  on  Isliiiuiua's  ilusky 
face.  He  could  not  sleop.  Time  and  time  agaiu  he 
went  outside  the  tent,  casting  his  eyes  far  and  wide  over 
the  starlit  \va?tt',  eag^r  to  catch  any  i^ign  of  the  lost 
muleteer,  but  in  vain.  His  aii\it>ty  was  not  without 
eaiisL',  for  if  anyihing  should  liave  happened  to  the 
muleteer  he  would  have  been  held  responsible.  A  feel- 
ing of  insecurity  pervaded  the  whole  camp,  l.-hiiiima 
having  ^iicieeded  in  persuading  us  that  tlie  'I'anguts 
might  swoop  down  upon  us  at  any  moment.  The  agony 
and  stillness  of  that  awful  night,  broken  only  by  the 
subdued  sounds  of  our  own  voiee.-,  the  distant  howl  of 
a  wolf,  and  the  monotonous  babble  of  tlie  llsi-lio  rapids, 
were  not  soon  forgotten.  At  ilaybreak  next  morning, 
just  as  Ishinima  vva>  preparing  breakfast,  two  of  the 
mis^iing  mules.  i[uite  mule-like,  returned  of  their  own 
accord,  and  soon  after,  to  our  great  joy,  our  muleteer 
came  running  into  camp.  The  faithful  fellow  had  con- 
tinued his  fruitless  search  away  into  the  night,  and, 
having  lost  his  way,  had  crouched  down  behind  a  rock 
to  rest  till  daylireak  ;  ho  seemed  ([uite  com[»eiisated  for 
his  trouble  on  linding  that  two  of  the  mules  had  come 
back.  One  black  animal  being  still  astray,  Mr.  Fer- 
guson went  out  again  on  the  search.  As  he  did  not 
return  after  an  unaccountably  long  time,  ^Ir.  Rijn- 
hart  took  the  sweep  of  the  liori/.on  with  the  te]esco[)e 
to  see  if  there  were  any  trace  of  him,  and,  u;icr  a  short 
absence,  came  running  to  the  tent  shouting,  "  Get  the 
guns  ready  !  Therfijai£_fiix  wild  Tibetans  after  Will  I" 
E.xcitement  reigned  supreme  and  every  preparation 


46 


^VITII  J  III:  TIliKTAXS 


;;;vr'i  "'-'7"-         ..,,1  n.,!.,,.., 

to  dfft.ad  our.-.lv..  and  uu,-  .,„„i„  u 
tergu.on  rode  well,  out.tri,,,.n,.^  lu.  pur.u.r.  all  Inu" 


lu^MilKia.i  arnird  with  a  spoar,  who  followed 
-luK.|v  ou  In.  tnuk,    W,  l.^.v  t!.,f  Mr.  Fc.r;,n.on  wa« 
'itnte  capable  of  loul.ing  alUr  hnu.rU.  ,^  I,,.  Varri.d  •, 
revolver,  and  usually  the  .iylu  of  furcgn  a.n.s  of  anv 
kind  ha.  a  .alutarj-  elTect  on  these  wild  nomads.  Soon 
not  only  .Mr.  Fc.r.n.son  but  th.  ..i.v  Tibetan.,  had  roaehed 
our  tent,  and  the  latter  were  preparing-  t,.  I.^lp  ,I„,,t- 
«;lves  to  our  possessions  M-hen  i.^hininu.  n.inon.^trat-d, 
informing  them  that  wo  had  foreign  guns,  whereupon 
x'.v  threw  ,h,.,.  ,„.],.  ,Ha„.hbH.k..  and  -hnn.v  spc-ar^  to 
tJK"  ground   sat  down  b.>ide  then,,  .dh.l  Ji,,,  pi,„, 
and  smoked  and  chatted  in  a  very  friendh  ,„a.mer 
ir.-..!itly  another  group  of  Tibetans  came"  gall.,pi.  . 

'I''H,v  were  t.n  in  nuiuber,  and  a^ 
tlu'V  drew  near  we  e.^pi,.,]  our  lo,.t  l-laek  nnd.  an,.).-, 
their  animals.    These  Tibetans  were  well  drc-.  d  in 
garments  of  various  and  gorgeous  colors.    AVo  „r,t 
i»"'"(inns  but  they  kept  assurinir  us  in 
tl'o  name  of  Bnd.Iha  that  tiny  were  good  men".' and  .f 
any  proof  were  wanting  they  triumpl.antiv  added  that 
one  of  their  company  M-as  a  lama.    At  tlu.  sa.ne  ti.ne 
tlH^  j.redatory  in.<fin.l  Iv.^an  to  manifest  itself;  the 
newcomers  insisted  on  liaving  first  one  thing  and  then 
another  of  our  belongings,  and  were  onlv  retrain,.! 
from  looting  the  entire  camp  when  Mr.  IJijnhait 
threatened  to  J)on(  1/  (hey  laid  hands  on  a  thin^^ 
After  ..Mine  further  ahcnatio,,   m,.  gave  them  some 
cash  Icy  catching  ,nir  niub— ishiuima  gav.j  them  a 


AMONG  THE  L.VMAS 


47 


man!,  or  ruisary,  of  great  value,  and  the  entire  band 

fixlc  olV.  Tho  quf^lion  now  was:  .should  we  (.'oiitimu' 
our  jounioy  to  the  Koko-iior  or  return  home?  1  was 
over  so  grateful  when  Ishinima  declared  that  the 
Tibetans  who  had  just  left  us  were  Tangut  robbers, 
ainl  that  tlit'v  would  most  as-urodly  return  i)resently 
witi)  roinforcemeiits  to  attaek  us.  for  that  announco- 
inenl  led  to  an  immediate  decision  to  turn  back.  Al- 
though later  we  made  the  Koko-nor  journey  with  no 
fear,  but  with  greater  experience  and  knowledge  of 
tlie  <rras,s  country  and  its  inhabitants,  for  the  mo- 
ment the  vis-ion  of  the  Blue  Lake  grew  dim,  and  load- 
ing our  mules  we  leai)ed  into  our  saddles,  and  were 
Koon  galloping:  toward  Tankar,  with  sweet  dreams  of 
the  safely  and  shelter  that  awaited  us  in  our  little  home 
at  Lusar. 

Deviating  a  little  from  the  road  by  which  we  had 
come,  we  arrived  at  Chanjr-fang-tai,  a  Til>etan  village 
nestlinj:  nn  the  ed^^c  of  a  smi:ll  stream.  The  country 
hereabout  was  (juite  fertile,  although  in  an  unculti- 
vated state.  Roaming  along  the  bank  of  the  stream,  we 
.irathered  specimens  of  ferns,  grasses  and  wild  flowers. 
The  inha])itants  seemed  to  he  peaceably  disposed,  com- 
ing into  our  tent  and  taking  tea  with  us.  Here,  by  tho 
way,  I  tried  my  fir«t  dish  of  tsamba,  the  staple  article 
of  diet  throughout  Tibet,  taking  the  place  of  bread  in 
other  countries,  find  which  I  had  always  imagined  nm>t 
be  very  delicious  from  tho  zest  with  which  Ishinima 
invariably  devoured  it.  Tsamhn  is  a  kind  of  meal 
made  from  parched  barley,  which,  after  being  thor- 
oughly kneaded  with  the  fingers  in  a  mixture  of  tea 


^VITII  TUK  TIBKTA.N.S 

•'".1  builu-.  i>  u.koH  on!  in  luu,,.,  ai„l  rnWu  iVnn,  tl„. 
l>a.ul.    Tlunv^h  Mv.  If,jnl.ul  Mi^jar  to  make  il 

iii'Mc  jiiilatiiliic,  I  coultl  not  eat  it. 

<nj(niii<MU  at  tliis  village  wo 
lioanl  the  lirsi  al.innin-  ti,lin,.-.,  ..f  tl,..  WvvlUh.  r,.!,,.]!,.,,, 
which  shortly  l.rokf  out  in  full  furv  aiii..ng  the  Mo-- 
lianimethuis  of  Western  Kansii.    Faint  nunhlin-'s  of 
ilu'  >lonn  ha,l  already  hcen  heard,  hut  wo  had  not  con- 
.^Klere.l  tiie  ouihx.k  seriou>.     Duriu-  the  day  we  had 
noticed  clou.ls  of  smoke  ri.iug  m  the  distance,  an.) 
these,  a  Tilictan  courier  informed  us,  marked  the  .sceuo 
"f  tb.e  h,-nuu;!K  "(  Mulianinieaan  depredations.  A 
column  of  tile  rei.el  fanaties  had  suvpt  across  the  Xorth 
country  and  fallen  up.m  a  Chinese  villa;;.,  killin-r  all 
the  niliahltant.s  trotting  lire  to  the  buiMin-s.  and  leav- 
n.i^Mothing  hut  a.iies,  snioko  and  charred  corp.e< 
Iliist.ly  we  j.uiird  „|,  ,.„.•  t,,,!.  and.  though  the  nijrht 
wa.s  dark,  we  rode  oil  toward   iMinihuni.  ^^nh  ■[ 
difliculty  following  ,he  trail  «huh  wound  in  am!  out 
among  the  hills,  while  every  dark  object  became  to  our 
excited  ima-niation  a  eroucliin-  Mohammedan  readv 
to  dart  his  morcilcs.  spear.    A  si-li  of  relief  c^K-aned 
us  as  we  arrived  at  the  gate  of  Lusar,  yet  we  knew 
more  serious  news  awaited  us  as,  contrary  to  custom 
the  .-ate  M-as  elo.ed  and  earefnilv  '^nauM.    The  old 
gate-keeper,  wlioin  w..  knew  well,  ojumed  L,  K.t  us  in 
and  informed  us  of  the  danger  that  like  a  dark  eioud' 
<'l  "n  on  the  village  since  we  loft.   A{  arv  moment 
the  Mohamn.eda.  .  ..re  expeeied  t„  rush  in  from  some 
no.ghbonng  ambu.h.    lU.t  anud  ,he  gloomv  forebodings 
that  for  tne  munumt  lilled  our  minds,  "there  was  a 


AM(»N<;  Til  10  LAMAS 


49 


trt'inor  ul'  j"v  at  tin-  'lioujilit  of  our  frond  rDrtiiiio  in 
rt'tuniinu  !n  Lii-ar  wia'ii  we  di'l.  'I'lic  l^iMiio  I'rov- 
idiiuf  hail  unltnl  uvrivliaduwcil  u>  ami  uireclod  our 
movements.  Had  wp  gone  on  to  the  Koko-nor  and  nt- 
tomptod  t)  rrturu  lati  r.  \\i>  >lii)uld  liavc  found  our  way 
iiit{'rcei>tcd  liv  the  Moliaiiiiiicdaii  >tn>imlinld  which  a 
few  (hiys  afterwards  eouimaiided  the  roads  from  Tankar 
to  Kombum. 


<  flAITKK  ilf 


A  Moii  VMMi.i).v\  i!i:iii;r  <  ts 

M,.  l-r  „r  ,1,..  .  :^.l.._Onr  A<- 

—The  i)o,-.riii(.    r  l.'-  ituanialion. 
Ani.r,^    I  ,„„.,•     f.Hir  luin.Jiv.T   n  (Ik-  Mo- 

IlilllllllriLiii   del  -  ;|,,        '  ,  , 

III'  filllitfU  a-  ,1111  iir       i  il,.        r  . 

r-'     '  'I'll  111.  JollK  Iltlll" 

loavi-n.  a  hoti..  ,!  ,>{  ,lor  ...-ik-  u.ni.M,  ^  ,,1,1,,  , !,..,„.,.h .  .. 
and  i-M'v  an.l  aii-ii  u-orl<m<r  '■■>  ili.'  mu  ac-  .     il,o  i 

'  ••""■^      •      i'."'h.'i  have  i,mv...l  „ 

csiH-ciar V  J, I  ilu   i„     i,Kr>  ..]•  Shen.i,  Yuiiiiaii 

Kan.su,  whore  tliiv  1,  v,.  j.],,^  ,,a  ti.eu  ,„ost  ,  i,.  ,,. 

colonics.   Am»r.!:  ,r  t„  p  tk-ro  aro  ,u...ut 

iniilions  of  'hci'    l!inHi-li.,i:!   tlif  i-iir 

other  authoriiK'>    .a.  ■  'hf  nn;  |1„.,. 

are  known  i.v  the  -  m,    .  a|.|i,.lla.  ;on 

that  is,  adla'unt-  uf  ihf    -mall  reli-;  n.- 

t:>  iho  niiiiosc.  \v':o.  with  l!   ir  oonij.I,  , 

Avorshir),  id,,     rv   an.l   it     ,is,.  huniin-.  , 

Ta-chiao,  or  -  ^^roM  rvU^'    .,.••(        mji.  r  ^ia-i. 

liidc  of  ihe  two  rHi-ions    .  n,-  ,  -htnat.'.'  air  J  In 

the  relative  uumUT  ..f  tli.  .  adlKTcnti^.    Th.     in  am- 

0 


.\  \l<  II  \  \fMi;r)AN  UEDFf.LlON 


51 


■11'      1.-  '    r  ili-lm;   U.-li'^d  I'l'iii     tln'  (  lilMC-r  hy 

I  4  i    111  1^  ,11111.  \MiU',  1(1  .11  't,  jinik  ami 

!i,  r  Mijii  uln'ii  kiU''<l  by  a  Muhuiiitiie<tun 

-  iii;.'i.:.       \\      liU'  Ih'.'Ii  spt'tially  aiu '  'ii  izcd  liy  the 
.      .       .  I'or  tl    ■  ivasnii,  iii.iy      way-  In-  i  >  r- 
'a  ••.  11  iiu'iit  Irom  .>iuluimiiu'(iaii 

Illi  i         incso  do  not  scrupU'  to  cut 

\<  >■      li  iiiiiiial  that  lias  i'    '  of  ilis- 

•  (•>  'ally  I  h-aii.  till'  M"  iicilaiis 

ill.  ss   111'  whati'  ,alliiig 

V  '  til  a  I     .  hant,  niuleti'i  i,  carti-r, 

Ilk  I  ,    .  ,.]      ikcr  1      upper,  jiilvcr  or  iron. 

'iiM  !s  aio:  --  the         I  !' i;ihu'a\ <  fiijn\  lhi> 

I"  '  i<  of  ail  fla>M's,  while  ■      tin.'  other 

Mohaninu'ilfin  will  partake  of    he  "  cere- 
ni  ilean"  dishes  of  the  ordiiiarv  'inkei^iior 
111'         /''i-c'  iao  piTMia-idii. 

Mohaniiiied.-m-  uf  the  i  rovinoo  i-  ■.  iiuiii- 

'loiil    aie  iiiillioii  ami  a  half,  .  oiie- 
i.     -i  iK»pulation.    In  the  priiuipa  -luh 
H    .1,  the  (apilal,  and  Sining,  the  dize 
tirli.-.  and  uliole  ^'"al^e!;  and  towns  <>  a 
i)<   ,  iiiiiil  111  various  parts  of  the  proviiae,  even  as 
ir  \v"st  as  the  Tibetan  border.    Besides  being  known 
indci  the  ii>ual  tlc-iuiialion  of  Siao-cli  iau,  to  listin- 
,u    -h  !liein  ffl igiou>ly  frein  the  ('hine,~e,  they  ;  also 
i  a.ied  liy  the  latter  IIi,      U(  i .  whiW  the  Tibetan-  a-  d 
ngolian.s  speak  of  them  as  K'a-che.    Though  n'--v 
i\iiig  lost  to  a  eonsiderablc  extent  their  racial  ehar- 
-  ti'i'i-tics    tliroiigh  interiuarria;^*    with    the  Chinese, 
liiey  are  still  leeogiii/ed  as  the  (Iom  adanls  of  the  great 


52 


WITH  THE  TIBETAXS 


migrations  wlikli  came  from  Turkeslau,  Ka^lmiir,  and 
Samarkand  nearly  five  centuries  ago.  They  are  di- 
vided  into  (wo  nrts.  .ailed  the  "  while-eai»i)oa an' 
'•  Uack-eappeil,"'  the  latter  beiii-  ide:;tieal  with  tlie 
Salars,  who  are  much  more  fanatical  and  oxcIuhvc 
than  the  uiher  sect.  In  the  Sining  district  the  two  di- 
visions ari'  known  as  the  Lno-vhiao,  or  "old  religion," 
and  the  .iin-vhiao,  or  -  new  religion."  the  latter  heing, 
as  far  as  we  could  ascertain,  the  fame  sect  as  the  Salars, 
or  "black-capped"  Mohammedans.  They  have  not 
mi'rged  nearly  so  agreeably  wi\h  the  t'liineso  as  the 
I'ormer,  for,  while  they  are  usually  ready  to  rebel,  the 
Lao-chiao,  as  a  rule,  remain  neutral,  or  even  co- 
oi)erate  with  the  Chinese. 

The  Salars  wlio  boast  of  their  Samarkand!  origin 
are  settled  around  llocheo,  Il<uen-hua-ting,  .Mincheo 
and  Taocheo,  the  first  mentioned  tow.:  of  thirty  thou- 
sand inhabitants  being  their  stronghold,  where  the 
Chinese  have  to  keep  a  large  body  of  soldiers,  as  nearly 
every  year  for  the  in.)st  trivir.l  reasons  there  is  trouble, 
'i'iu'  Salars  speak  their  own  language,  which  is  undrr- 
stood  by  travelers  from  Kashgar,  and  wiien  we  visitcl 
their  cnintry  in  1897,  Bahim,  our  Tibetan  boy.  a 
native  of  T.adak,  was  delighted  that  he  coul.l  con  verso 
in  their  own  tongue,  which  he  had  learned  on  his 
journeys  into  Turkestan.   The  men  have  a  purely  for- 
eign look,  good  figures,  oval  faces,  aquiline  noses,  and 
wear  tiie  Chinese  queue,  while  the  women  do  not  bind 
liieir  feet,  though  the  .A[ohammodans  aroun.l  ns  wer- 
as  much  in  love  with  snuiU  feet  as  were  the  pure 
Chinese.   They  are  all  supposed  to  be  conversant  with 


A  MOHAMMEDAN  REBELLION  53 


Arabic,  but,  as  a  fact,  have  not  usually  much  knowledge 

of  it,  except  tlie  ahons,  some  of  tlie  latter  being  Tur- 
ktv-tiuii.  Ucxasionally  H)nif  gitat  linifii  from  Mecca 
or  other  important  Moslem  center  visits  the  faith- 
ful in  Kansu,  exhorting  them  to  greater  zeal; 
wliile  the  many  mos(iues  that  tower  above  t!ie  Chinese 
dwellings,  tlie  dogged  fidelity  with  whieh  tlie  devotees 
perform  their  religious  services,  and  the  death-em- 
bracing fanaticism  with  which  in  times  past  they  have 
fought  for  their  faith,  all  attest  the  vigorous  hold  which 
Mohammedanism  has  gained  in  the  land  of  Confucius. 

The  religious  dissimilarities  between  the  two  sects 
are  trivial,  the  lines  of  cleavage  being  quite  as  insig- 
n  ucant  as  some  that  divide  Christendom.  The  chief 
bone  of  contention  is  a  diirerence  of  opinion  as  to 
the  hour  at  \,  aich  the  fast  may  be  broken  during  the 
liamadan,  and  as  to  the  propriety  of  incense  burning. 
The  cause  of  the  dispute  which  culminated  in  one  of 
the  most  sanguinary  and  disastrous  wars  that  ever  took 
place  in  Western  China  was  the  question  as  to  whether 
or  not  a  Mohammedan  might  wear  a  beard  before  the 
age  of  forty! 

It  need  not  be  wondered  at  tliat  terror  filled  the 
minds  of  the  people  of  Lusar  and  Ivumlmni,  and  of  all 
the  surrounding  villages,  when  the  news  spread  that  the 
Mohammedan  sword  was  again  unsheathed;  for  fresh 
in  their  niemori  -  were  the  terrible  atrocities  perpe- 
trated during  the  former  uprising,  which  was  one  long 
intermittent  period  of  bloodshed  and  pillage  lasting 
from  1861  to  1874,  both  parties,  however,  assenting 
to  a  cessation  of  hostilities  each  year  during  seedtime 


54  WITH  THE  TIBETAXS 

and  harvest.    The  government  troops  sent  to  subdue 
the  it'hvU  luul  kvii,  oil  aceoiuit  of  their  inadequate 
nuiuhcTs  hewn  down,  harnis>r.l  and  beaten  vear  after 
year,  and  only  succeeded  Jiiially  in  (luollin-;  the  out- 
break because  of  a  dissension  among  the  Moiuuniucdans 
themselves  as  to  wluthcr  the  Koran  sanctioned  the  use 
nf  tobacco.   Our  own  liitl,.  I.usnr  had  in  those  troublous 
times  been  twico  destroyed,  while  before  the  ivhdiion 
Kumbum,  the  g-eat  monastery,  had  been  the  residence 
"f  T.DOO  lamas  hundreds  of  whom  dved  their  temple 
threshold-  with  their  blood,  falling  in  defense  of  their 
treasures  and  their  homes,  repulsing  the  rebels  barely 
in  time  to  save  their  treasure-lwuse,  and  to  keep  unholv 
han.ls  from  ravi-hing  their  gold-tiled  temples.  When- 
ever th..  lamas  look  at  the  i)ullet-pierced  silver  bowl 
which  is  still  in  service  on  one  of  the  altars,  they  re- 
member that  Kumbum's  j.almiest  davs  ended  in  that 
great  .frug-le,  for  never  since  has  it  contained  more 
than  four  tliousind  lamas. 

Although  the  Chinese  had  fmallv  subdued  the  rciiel- 
hon,  they  had  not  (luelled  the  fanaticism  that  gave  it 
rise.   They  forbade  the  Mohammedans  to  reside  within 
the  towns  and  cities,  but  this  only  led  to  their  gathering 
in  thousands  ou'-ido  the  walls  or  in  separate  settle- 
ments, where  they  '  ro„de.l  over  their  lack  of  fre,-dom 
and  cherished  a  hatred  towards  the  Chinese,  fanned  In- 
the  memory  .,f  the  treaehery  by  which  during  the  war 
the  latter  had  beguiled  them  into  manv  a  bloodv  snare- 
and  throughout  all  the  intervening  years,  up  to  tlie  time 
of  the  fresh  outbreak  in  1895,  the  ahons  had  done  their 
part  in  keeping  (he  fire  of  hatred  and  dissatisfaeti.m 


A  M()IIAMMI:DAN  rebelliox 


55 


l)urniiig  ill  ihoir  lioiut^.  The  vague  rumors  of  trouble 
at  a  distance  that  had  rca-hed  us  In'fore  our  departure 
lor  the  Kuko-uor  hiul  causrd  little  ahinii  in  cur 
triet,  hill  on  our  return  tiie  reports;  were  distinct  and 
dire  enougii.  Tlie  little  lire  so  recently  kindled  wa^ 
already  assuming  uncontrollable  proportions.  A  dis- 
sension had  occurn  d  in  the  Siii-chiao  on  aeenunt  of  the 
heard  (picstion  alrea'ly  referred  to,  and  swords  were 
drawn;  the  Chinese,  who,  while  inert  enough  in  most 
emergencies,  seem  to  be  ready  to  interfere  in  Moham- 
medan disputes,  stepped  in  to  settle  ihi-  one,  nnd  the 
j>rogress  of  the  campaign  until  it  reaehed  the  u.nuedi- 
ate  vicinity  of  Kumhuui  had  been,  we  Iianied,  as  fcd- 
lows. 

The  quarrel  between  the  two  sects  having  broken 
out  eighty  English  miles  from  Siniiig,  and  the  district 
inhabited  1)y  tiie  Sahirs  being  governed  from  that  city, 
a  -Major  l  ang  had  lieen  sent  with  two  hundred  sol- 
diers to  make  peace,  which  apparently  he  had  suc- 
ceeded in  doing;  but  suspicions  of  his  failure  were 
aroused  when,  on  the  loth  of  March,  the  Tao-tai 
of  Sining  was  summoned  by  the  Governor-general 
of  Kansu  to  Lancheo  and  despatched  with  more 
troops  to  Ilsuen-hua-ting,  tiie  seat  (.f  tli<'  trouble.  The 
latter  olficial  did  a  iii');t  imprudent  thing  in  seizing  and 
putting  to  death  a  prominent  chief  and  tliive  or  four 
others,  for  to  avenge  this  outrage  the  Salars,  largely 
forgetting  their  own  differences,  rose  cn  iii'H'^c  ag.iin-i 
the  Chinese,  imprisoning  the  general  and  several 
other  ollieers  who  had  Ijeen  .-eiit  from  llocheo  to 
aid  him.    Reports  that  the  Salars  were  advancing 


50  WITH  THE  TIBETANS 

•iiul  tliat  other  Mohammotlans  were  joluing  them 
il'i'-w  the  Chint-o  ni-  (h,.  Sining  district  into  the 
^vil.icst  exicitemcnt,  and  soldiers  Mvre  sent  into  tlie 
villages  not  as  yet  alTcetod  l.y  the  rebellion,  to  in- 
quire into  rumors  and  exhort  the  Cliinese  and  Mo- 
I^iiinniednns  to  live  t()^r,.ti„.,.  j„  p,..,,,.^     j,,.  ^j^^ 

Mareh   the   truth  ahont    Major   Uan-'s'  <l,.f,,,t 
h-arnod.     A  "  white-eapped  -  Mohammedan,  a  sun- 
]>osed  ally  of  the  Chinese,  but  reallv  in  league  with 
ilio  Nalars.  ofT.red  to  gm,h  the  Major  to  a  position 
In.m  which  he  ini-Iii  crush  the  ivhels  at  a  single  blow 
The  MaJ.  V  ar.d  his  men  followed  tiie  guide  over  ihe 
treacherous  river  and  along  its  southern  bank,  until 
■■rr.vmg  at  the  juncture  of  two  valleys,  they  campod' 
lor  the  night,  -h..  Yellow  River  on  the  north  of  them 
and  a  ridge  of  high  rooky  hiUs  on  the  south.  Here' 
when  wholly  unprepared,  they  were  surprised  bv  tlu' 
Nalars  into  whose  hands  they  had  been  socretlv  be- 
trayed by  tlie  would-bc  guid...  scventv-four  of 'their 
number  being  killed,  while  the  others,  having  -ivcn  up 
their  rifles  on  the  promise  of  morey  and  freedom,  were 
immediately  afterwards  shot  by  their  enemies. 

The  news  of  thi>  disaster  having  reached  the  Gov- 
ernor-General, he  issued  a  proclamation  ordcrin-  the 
extermination  of  the  Salar  sect,  root  and  branch.  '  Two 
days  later  a  fresh  proclamation  was  aflixed  to  the  eitv 
gates,  couched  in  milder  terms,  paying  ihat  a  distinc- 
tion was  to  be  made  between  prood  and  i)ad  Salars  th-u 
only  the  latter  were  to  be  killed.  But  no  reverse  tide 
ol  second  thought  could  dam  back  the  mightv  cataclv«m 
of  bloodthirsty  revenge  which  had  broken  ont  over 


A  MOHAMMEDAN  REBELLION  67 

the   laml.  lii>t    prochiiuation  Imd   done  the 

work;  alroa.ly  the  blaek>iuiths  wore  busy  night  and 
(lay  >h!irt.oiiiiij:  -\v()^ll^^  and  iiialvii.^  ii'  w  (,iios,  and 
1H.(4>I('  frnm  the  xiHn-.-  v,vu-  (Inrking  into  the  cities 
with  their  faniilie.-,  i'lirniuirc  and  grain.  Farming 
was  sus'pended,  and  a  general  panic  prevailed  aa  it 
iKJcamc  knc  -n  that  the  Salary  had  risen  up  in  th>'  fnl- 
noss  of  theii  slrengtli.  all  joining  swords  from  various 
iiiotiv.'s— iVar,  zeal,  rowngc  and  llie  hope  of  gain 
tliroiigh  success  and  plunder  being  the  chief  ones.  De- 
tachments of  imperial  soldiers  came  up  from  Lancheo 
and  Liangclieo.  Im*  the  Muhainnudans  liad  congre- 
■ratod  in  sucli  overwliclniing  hordes  tliat  tlie  Chinese 
could  not  begin  to  cope  with  them. 

About  the  end  of  April  the  imperial  troops  had  suc- 
ceeded in  taking  three  Salar  villages,  but  at  the  same 
time  the  operations  of  the  rebels  became  more  exten-  ^  . 

8ive.  The  C'liinese  government,  now  realizing  the  mag-  ^1 
nitude  of  their  undertaking,  appointed  to  the  com- 
mand of  the  imperial  troops  Brigadier-General  Teng 
.,f  Sining,  a  man  of  rare  decision  and  military  reputa- 
tion, who,  departing  for  the  seat  of  trouble,  defeated 
the  rebels  near  the  city  of  Hsucn-hua-ting,  a  victory 
with  which  further  uprisings  in  the  vicinity  of  Ilocheo 
v.civ  simultaneous;  m.r  was  liis  victory  accompli>hed 
without  eNtreme  dillicully  and  much  bloodshed.  The 
enemv  having  been  api^rised  of  the  Brigadier-General's 
start 'from  Sining,  had  come  to  meet  him,  and  but  for 
the  timely  help  of  tlie  Tibetans,  his  army  would  have 
b(vn  annihilated.  It  became  evident  that  the  rel)ellion 
w  as  no  longer  confined  to  the  "  hhiek-eapped "  sect, 


WITri  TJIK  TrDETAXS 
jml  u-hen  tho  now.  spread  tJuu  HccIk...  tho  MecJa  of 

u!T;'  ^^r  'T""'        --'^^^       ^fO'^lcm  college,  and 
fcU  U..t  ,lu.  u.u.>t  h.l  onlv  ^ 
uth  the  resource,  at  lus  .n.nunu   adoi.,.  -!  the  .no^'t 

.^-ro„s  „.easna>s.    In  the  he,nnr.„.  of  ./ulv  he  i„- 

''"--Kv  uu,,nun  1  l,v,l„.,,,;„r:,.,,„J 

that  ,0.000  Mohamnu..l..ns       ,he  >ui.u...  .,f 
weiv  aliout  to  join  the  relx-ls. 

H>,.  ,v,,or,,  ,!,a,  rea.  hod  Lusar  and  Kundnun  be- 


0^  h  aroused,  lamas  .n>.l  iaunen  joining  hear,  and 
Jiand  n,  ..il,.„s,vc  and  defensive  measures  to  ho  en.- 
l>l'i;--l  ■•^an,s,  the  rebels,  whom  thev  now  no  Wer 
si-ke  ol  as  Ilun-lnn-i.  or  N/..-./nV,..'but  bv  the  more 
•'I'l-'opriate  title,  as  thev  tliouglit.  /,,/,  ' 

Activity  in  the  collection  of  old  iron  in.  reaped  the 
nrn.u,.  .hnved  da.v  and  night  with  an  intenser  i.eat, 
■•■"'i-         ""vils  und-r  the  blow.  ..f  an 
nnny  of  j,^  re>j,..n.e  to  the  g..nera]  ehunur  iW 

pvnnis.  .pear-,,oint.  and  guns.    (J„  all  the  main  roads 
n.g    o  the  village  liao-Io  were  built,  two-storied 
mud-bru-k  touvr.  a  .n.uav  nnd.rnea,  1,.  an,!  .  roc  . 
above  through  tlu-  wall  <.r  whuh  w.re  loop-h„K  .  f,., 
^J"ns.whdea  small  rampart  brandu.!  oil"  on  eiilu.r.ide 
-  >'»-r!na..  Mol.anMnedans  living  in  Lusar  gn.du- 
ly  and   ,p,„.,lv   .,!,,   their   ,„•„,.,,,.  or  taku,.  i 
^ong  wm.  their   fannlies.  I.ft   Tor  Topa.  the  U  l 
-  -l-re  tin.,  were  soon  ,0.- 

000  flpht.ng  men.    We  li„lo  suspected  that  even  Afo- 


A  M()ii.\MMi;i)A.\  ui;mi:li-io.\ 


lllllllllM'il.ni-   will!  Ii.hI    lii'inlilc  dUr   l'|■|^IHl^.   jiill'l  iclllil  I'lv 

oi!c  olil  mail  who  lived  aliiidrl  next  dour  to  u.-,  vcrc 
soon  to  take  up  arms  against  their  follow  .d-., 
cHir.-^c'lvcs  includc'l. 

The  laiiiii-  ])r<)vi(lc(l  tlu'iiiM-Ivc  -  with  arms  of  -'.ery 
kind,  woiv  or^'aiiizod  into  an  army  uikIct  the  leader- 
^liip  of  Shertoelj  Fuyeh,  on;^  of  tlie  "living  buddhas 
of  Kumbuni,  and  met  on  the  hills  for  drill,  besides 
ln'inj:'  as  lui-y  a-  lice-  i;t  the  const i-in-t ion  of  t-trong 
hrii-k  towers  fur  tlie  lirotcetimi  of  their  homes  and 
temples.  I>hinima,  ihou;i!i  an  arriint  eouard,  pre- 
pared a  spear  for  himself,  and  our  lessons  in  Tibetan 
became  very  irre^iihir  and  aimo-i  u.-ele-s,  for  (nir  pro- 
fcsMtr  Iiad  utterly  lo-t  hi-  e<|nilihi-iiim.  The  inhah- 
itant;:  ol"  Ln>ar  carried  all  tiieir  valual)les  over  (o 
Kumbum  and  placed  them  in  the  hands  of  the  lamas,  | 
intending  to  flee  to  tlie  lamasery  should  the  rebels  in  I 
>lrenijlh  attack  tlie  villap'.  knowing  tliat  the  lamas 
would  die  fighting  for  their  treasures,  and  so  the  lives 
of  the  sojourners  there  would  be  comparatively  safe, 
b'efugecs  from  isolated  villages  sv.armed  to  Kumbum 
for  safety,  and  soon,  a-  a  result  of  the  o\ on-rowdin.L', 
diphtheria  and  siiuill[io.\  were  raging,  while  food, 
fodder,  and  everything  had  risen  to  such  exhorbitant 
]»rices  that  beggars  were  added  in  immense  crowds  to 
the  already  existing  luinilicr.  occupying  every  cave  aiiu 
stable,  in  fact,  every  available  corner  th'  \  could  find. 
Many  of  our  friends  in  Lusar  advised  us  to  leave  for 
home,  or  at  least  go  to  Sining,  which  had  a  good  wall  l 
and  an.  army  to  defend  it:  but  we  felt  tliat  we  jiad  not  | 
iiiiprovidentiailv  arrived  in  Kumbum  a1  that  es!)ecial  1  ^ 


r>0  WJTM  THE  TIBKTAXS 

time,  and  ni  onicr  tlial  wr  mi-lit  not  tlnvni!  the  plans 
of  Him  Mhotc  work  wo  wviv  doing,  wc  rcuiaiiitd  among 
the  people,  and  made  preparations  to  save  our  goods  in 
tlie  event  nf  an  attack,  by  putting  them  in  a  cave  off 
our  storeroom. 

Barely  had  we  decided  to  ^hare  iIk-  fcar.s  and  fortunes 
<»f  our  Chinese  and  Tibetan  friends,  by  facing  with 
them  the  dreadful  possibilities  of  a  long  and  bloody 
siege,  wlien  an  event  of  no  small  importance  occurred, 
one,  in  fact,  which  to  a  great  extern  changed  the  cur- 
rent of  our  lives  and  aflfected  the  whole  course  of  our 
future  relations  with  the  people.    To  our  amazement 
we  received  from  the  hvipo  an  invitation  to  take  up 
our  abode  in  tiic  lamasery  during  the  nl.cllion.  an 
offer  which,  needless  to  say,  we  eagerly  aiccpted.  not 
only  Ijecause  (.f  the  safety  it  offered  us,  but  also  because 
of  the  prestige  it  would  give  us  in  the  eyes  of  [Un,v. 
whom  we  were  seeking  lo  help.    This  apparentlv  Mid- 
den kindness  on  the  part  of  the  abbot  was  dependent 
Uj)on  an  anuiwng  incident  during  Mr.  Rijnhart's  visit 
to  Kunibnni  in  IS!)?.    One  day  lu«  was  sent  for  by 
one  of  the  '-living  buddlia^  "  of  Kunihum.  and.  ex- 
iwcting  to  have  a  pleasant  aiid  profitable  conversation 
■  ibout  spiritual  matters,  he  went  immediately  to  the 
I'u.ldhaV  apartment,  v here  he  learned  with  some  dis- 
appointment that  he  h..ci  been  summoned  not  from  anv 
religious  motive,  but  to  be  consulted  about  a  music-box 
which  the  buddha  had  bought  as  a  curiosifv  when  on 
a  visit  to  Pekin.    Th.e  innMi  -box  wa-.  t(,  ex|M-.'ss  litcr- 
aMv  what  the  l;iina  had  said.  "  su  k^"  and  li,)^!  ceased 
to  give  forth  niu-ic;  and  the  lama  had  concluded  that 


) 

A  MOHAM.MKDAN  i{l::r.i:LLJ()N  Gl 

since  it  had  been  made  by  fortigiu'i!!  it  could  surely 
lie  cuml  liy  a  foreigner.  ^Ir.  Hijiiliart  carefully  e.\- 
iiniined  l\w  in>truiiieut,  and  liudiny  it  only  needed 
lubricatin'.',  gave  it  a  liberal  treatment  of  castor-oil, 
tlie  only  kind  available,  whereupon  its  innvers  re- 
turned, and  the  wonderful  box  was.  as  the  lama  e.\- 
prcMsod  it,  "  curcl."  Ho  had  therefore  conceived  great 
confidence  in  the  skill  of  the  foreigner,  for  if  he  could 
cure  a  sick  mui^ic-box  with  one  dose  of  medicine,  how 
much  more  could  he  do  for  a  ^ick  man  I  The  result  of 
an  apparently  insignilieant  act  of  kindness  cannot  be 
estimated.  The  music-box  incident,  though  forgotten 
by  Jlr.  Rijnhart,  had  evidently  left  an  impression  on 
the  lama,  who  had  in  the  meantime  ri>en  to  the  dignity 
t)f  the  abljoiship,  for  he  it  was  who  now  again  sum- 
moned the  foreign  doctor  with  his  magic  oil  to  come 
and  treat  the  treasurer  of  the  lamasery,  who  had  fallen 
ill.  allhoi.igh  he  did  not  know  at  the  time  that  Mr. 
J{ijnhart  was  the  same  foreigner  who  had  "cured  his 
sick  instrument." 

Following  a  guide,  we  climbed  up  steep,  stony 
paths  until  we  reached  the  most  imposing  of  the 
l)uildings,  the  hiiiix/s  residci-^o,  in  a  part  of  which 
the  treasurer  resided.  Ishinima  had  often  spoken 
of  the  hanpo,  or  fa-tai,  the  great  man  who  prc- 
side<l  o\er  the  spiritual  welfare  of  the  four  thousand 
Kumbum  bunas,  assuring  us  tliat  he  could  only  be 
seen  when,  clad  in  his  salTron  robes,  crowned  with  his 
glittering  mitre,  and  followed  by  a  long  retinue  of 
attendants,  he  descended  from  his  lofty  and  sacred 
almde  tn  preside  over  some  important  religious  fuue- 


fi2  WITH  Tin;  i  ii'.irr.ws 

tint).    l>liiiiiiii;r-  -iir|iri-f  iii.iy         Ij.  iiii.i^iiicd  wlini 
we  tultl  hiiu  \\f  wore  going  to  llic  kaniiu's  vv>\Av\\iv  lo 
visit  such  ail  illustrious  patient  as  Ilsam-tso,  the  Irea.-s- 
iiror.    Iinlij:iiiiiitly  lie  lepiKliatcd  the  possiljility  of  sueli 
ii  lliiii,^'.  for  tlii>  ciili'.'HK  !•  (if  I'mi'.  ii,'n(.r>  into  the  -lUTftl 
iv-i<lt  iice  of  (he  gival  iiK  iirnai  n.ii  of  Uiidiliia  wa>  iiii- 
lieard  of.   Yot  to  the  (Mpially  great  surprise  of  Ishiniiim 
and  (iimm  Ivi^.  uc  not  only  visited  the  treasurer,  care- 
fully (lia-tiM-fd  hi>  la-i'.  and  gav(>  Iiini  treat nicnt,  Init 
liy  .-p<rial  iinitaliiin  were  n.-liered  into  tiic  audience 
chanilM-r  of  the  knupo  himself.   C'limhing  a  Aw^  stair- 
(a-i  .  uc  arrived  in  the  courtyard  imnic'diately  con- 
fronting ills  apartments,  where  v,e  siw   a  voiitlifnl 
lama  wiili  Hying  red  garment-.  Ijare  feet,  and  coiinle- 
iianec  wreathed  in  smiles,  rush  acioss  the  courtyard 
and  enter  a  room  as  if  to  apprise  his  master  of  our 
approach,  and  when  we  r^aehcil  the  door  he  was  there 
with  characteristic  oriental  o')M'(piiousness  to  usiier  us 
in.    Another  moment  and  we  »vere  standing  m  the 
l)rescncc  of  the  greatest  Buddhist  dignitary  of  all 
northeastern  Tihet.  the  man  who  was  looked  up  to  a- 
spiritual  guide  and  icadier  not  only  I»v  the  l.inia-  who 
sat  under  his  immediate  tutelage,  hut  liy  thousands  of 
hiymen  outside,  to  wImuii  his  personality  was  known. 
Suhlinie  in  the  conseiousnc-s  of  his  own  greatness,  he 
dill  not  descend  from  his  throne  on  ]itTceiving  in 
faet,  his  stolid  countenance  hetraye(l  no  sign  of  pleas- 
ure or  surprise,  for  wliy,  indeed,  should  the  calm  and 
nioiiotonons  flow  of  his  feelings  he  disconcerted  hy  the 
arrival  of  a  connle  of  foreign  teacliers  nmre  tlnni  I»v 
the  worshippers  of  high  rank  wiiom.  from  far  and 


A  Mnll AM.MKK.W  |,'|,i;i;i.l,IO\ 


6.? 


lu'.ir.  lie  U.I-  :ic(  ii -lomcil  t"  ri  M  ivc  !'    He  a.-kfil  ii- 

t(i  lie  ffiitLil  oil  .-uiiR'  bcaulil'iil  iii^'.-,  wliile  hia  luiiia 
servant  brou^'ht  us  toa  in  china  basins,  which  were 
jtlactd  bifoiv  us  on  little  tallies  ten  inches  high,  painted 
ill  liriLilit  '...!. 11-.  T)iiriii;_'  tlii'  convfrsatidii  the  kai\p'> 
t'xi'laiuiii  that  a  past  exporit'iKf  with  a  foreigner  had 
given  hi.-n  tlic  detiire  to  meet  another,  and  great  was  his 
pleasiuv  wiieii  he  found  out  that  Mr.  IJijnhart  was  the 
idcntival  foicigiicr  w  ho  had  "•  doctored ''  his  music- 
box  tlirtr  vfiirr^  preMmis. 

This  brief  visit  was  preliminary  to  many  others  thai 
followed  in  quick  succossion,  resulting  in  an  intimate 
acfuiaiiitiiiK c,  iiiutually  agreeable,  which  soon  ripciu'I 
into  a  (inn  f riciiil -hip.  Tli'  liinip')  was  particuhirlv 
interested  iii  tlie  I'ael  tluil  ^Ir.  liijiihart  liad  a  wife, 
and  as  more  ominous  reports  of  the  progress  of  th« 
relteliioii  reaehed  tiie  laiiia.-tTy,  lie  eviiK.  1  a  sincere 
anxielv  aluiut  om  uell'are.  lie  liad  iitderd  ji  u'reati'r 
surpri-e  in  store  for  us  than  the  privilege  of  paying 
him  a  visit,  for  he  told  us  very  cordially  that  his  own 
home  in  the  lamasery  was  at  our  disposal,  and  bade 
us  move  our  goods  at  onee  to  his  apariment-  ami  takf 
up  our  abode  there  i  ilil  the  rebellion  was  over.  if 
the  Mohammeilans  attack  Lusar,"  he  said  gravely, 
"  the  people  v>  !1  take  shelter  in  the  lamasery  and  leave 
you  to  be  kill.  .1  ■"  We  could  but  feel  that  the  l-'iiipo's 
oiler  was  ])roiiiklUiili»  accepting  it  as  heartily  as 
it  was  given,  we  remo\  ed  those  of  our  valuakh  s  which 
were  not  hidden  in  the  cave,  over  to  his  house,  where 
we  found  ho  liad  prepared  for  our  occupancy  two  large 
rooms  and  a  kitchen. 


C4  WITH  TIIK  TIBKTAXS 

Our  lift-  in  the  lainiiMTV  wa.-  a  bui-}  out'.  Iluiiilrcils 
of  diphtheria  casef  were  dealt  with,  and  muii}'  wuundid 
l.i-oj)l(.  wviv  broujrlit  to  ii>  i  nin  tl,e  surrounding  dis- 
tru't-      Jii   ((.muvtion   with    iiicli.al    work   in  the 
lama  . TV.  u  very  iiitcnstm-  and  j)atlit'tie  imidrnt  oc- 
curred, that  Rerved  to  give  us  a  il-ar  idea  of  one  of 
the  fundanuMital  beliefs  of  Buddhism,  viz:  re-incarna- 
tion    A  y..iin<:  In  n,,    imc  rr,,,,,,,!   ,o  i,.,  t,,  visit  a  lad 
who  was  vory  ill— a  iitil,.  i„;jrl,,  ,„•  huddlia.  -.iUmii  (en 
years  old.    Following  a  -.Miiilf  int(.  the  lapaciuuh  court- 
yard of  one  of  Kiimbum's  best  residence.-.  many 
rooms  dcroratcd  in  -ay  .nlor^,  with  windows  of  lattice- 
work covered  with  i.ri-lit  i)aiK,'r  and  ciored  ^!a.-^,  we 
came  to  th«;  door  of  a  suite  of  apartmcnLs,  where  Jiood 
ill!  old  l.una  with  white  Iward  and  hair,  down  whose 
cheeks  flowed  copiou.,  i,.;,,-.       wringin-  hi-  hand,- 
btvs<>u-}-'      to  do  our  bc>t  for  tl,.  1m,v  and  ii  ■!  N  t  him 
die;  as  ii  lie  died,  he.  the  Lima,  uu'uld  liavc  n-cn  hi.> 
elder  brotlr  •  die  a  M-cond  f        Thou^'h  V-h  little 
fuyh  was  thai  ..id  lama's  nrpliew  by  birth,  he  was 
looked  upon  as  his  eldrr  iuctiu'r;  !he"la!!.!  had  died 
ten  years  previou.-ly.  and  the  soul,  it  was  iM  iieved,  had 
returned  into  the  body  of  the  little  boy,  to  spend  an- 
otlier  period  on  its  progress  toward  Nirvana,  the  state 
of  blessedness.    Henee  it  was  that  the  man  who  now 
confronted  us  was  in  such  great  sorrow  fearing  that  ho 
■should  a  second  lime  witnes.s  his  elder  brother's  death. 
Wc  promis-d  all  the  lu^lp  wc  could  give,  and  were 
u.shcred  into  i  snia!!,  h.  .mtif„|!    ai'orncd  room,  where 
we  saw  rc.linin^'  on  the  h-'n„u  a  sick  child,  a  glance 
at  whom  told  11-  that  we  were  in  the  pre.eiico  of  a 


A  .\iniiA.\i.Mi:it.\N  i{i:i;i;i,i,in.\ 


6a 


\iriiiM  III'  a  \iniliiil  Ivjif  of  (liplillicrm.  \'\<  '\  tiin- 
I'ul  i.xaiiuiiaiiiiii  \\v  I't'lt  thai  lliciv  was  hcaiii  aiHH,-  of 
hh  recovt'iy,  mid  iiifornu'tl  tlie  old  man  that  the  only 
cliaiici'  for  tlir  [laiiciit  lay  in  our  .-tayin<^  with  hiiis, 
\Vlii'rcu'>nii  the  1)1(1  lama  told  u>  to  do  what  wi'  lli'iii;-dil 
best,  ai.  .uig  that  he  would  [iroeiire  for  us  aiiytlmii;  wc 
desired,  no  matter  what  the  coiit  would  be,  for,  he 
added,  that  Ixn  has  ftreat  wealth — thousands  of 
liorM'-.  nitile  and  sheep  ami  valualile  property  arc  his." 
We  pii'|i;,r(d  liie  necessaries  for  the  treat. nent  of  our 
lit  lie  [mtient  and  .silled  down  Iteside  the  k'uinj  to 
M-ateh  him. 

Daylifiht  faded  into  twili;;ht.  and  the  ^eular  work 
(d'  the  lamaxTv  wa.-  <!  le.  A-  the  tUMinlliious  ludihuii 
of  voiee>  died  a\wiy  and  even  the  Mtund  of  (he  water- 
earriers'  ^ootsleps  had  eeased,  the  lamasery  was  per- 
vaded by  a  stniT  're  and  nielan'  holy  r|uiet,  indeseribably 
pciuli;ir.  but  -hill  akin  to  that  atnios|)here  of 

.-ileiit  awi'  tha'  .  "galleries  and  crypts  of  some 

old  medianal  c;.  ■.  subduing  the  voi«>  nnd  even 
the  thoti^dds  of  'ler.  as  he  stands  w;'li  ni,  -ov- 

crci:  head  lirfure  till  ii:inb>  of  the  illustri  '■  '.itly 

dead.  And  as  that  ?ileiKe  is  sometimes  br  ei;  oy  the 
strains  of  the  choristers'  song  sounding  soft  and  low 
from  their  praetii  o-roor  .  or  by  snat  ''es  of  muffled 
harmony  il.iatin<r  dov  m  the  orga-  -iiift.  i  on  that 
uiyht  wa-  the  stilhu.--  oroken  by  ; ne  musical  voices 
of  the  lamas  chanting  their  prayers  in  the  temples, 
or  on  the  housetops  where  the  lighted  fires  of  juniper 
leaves.  I  he  >moke  of  which  u'led  up  and  spmt  it« 
flagrante  far  and  wide  until  u.    very  air  seemed  re- 


66 


WITH  Till;  riiwriAxs 


<lolt'Ut  Willi  (Ik;  ,-l'II>c  ul"  v,mi'.|ii|,.  i,,  j-imii'  rc-ptxt.- 
jiliLitillit'lif  side  of  'I'lln'taii  iJiaiUliijin  i.-  iiruoicUbk'. 
and  it  is  not  surprising  that  it  lias  tlirown  a  strony 
fascination  nvor  tlif  (•ivi!ulnu>  Tibetans.  It  is,  how- 
ever, like  the  Ph:M-i  ai-ii.  ul"  uKI.  a  whited  se- 
pulchre, iuping  a  beautiful  exteriur,  but  full  of  rot- 
tenness and  dead  men's  bones  within.  How  forciblv 
the  wail  of  the  white-liaired  old  lama,  with  his  rayless 
belief  in  the  doctrine  of  rcincariiat  Inn  broiiglit  home  to 
our  hearts  that  night  tlie  unsaii.-f\ ing  emptiness,  tlw 
bitter  darkness  of  a  svstcm  whicli  oilers  llie  human 
spirit  no  ijrigliter  pros])ect  than  to  bo  broken  again  and 
again  on  the  "  W  hei'I  oi  K\isleii(  c."  ^iru-gling  in  its 
own  strength  fur  countless  agt>,  with  the  forces  of 
evil,  with  no  beHer  promise  than  aniuiulatiuii  at  tlic 
end.  Those  who  get  their  conceptions  of  existing 
iUiddhi-Mi  from  Sir  I'Mwin  Arnold's  "Light  of  Asia" 
would  !)(•  .-adly  (li-i!lii>ionor]  ((cild  thcv  ^(-e  it  as  it  is 
really  believed  ami  i)ractited  by  the  ])eopie  of  Tibet. 

Night-time  had  settled  down  upon  us  in  our  places 
b(  -idc  thr  boy.  all  I  •  lamas,  even  the  old  man,  having 
ri'lirtd.  We  sat  reading  or  converging  in  low  wliispnv-, 
our  hearts  awed  by  llie  strangene.-s  of  our  surround- 
ings, the  dim  light  of  the  primitive  lamp  easting  weird 
shadows  on  some  objects  about  the  room,  now  in  tills 
corner  up<in  a  <pear  and  two  guns  ready  ff.r  n-e,  sug- 
gestive of  an\ thing  i)ut  peace,  then  Ujion  a  yellow 
satin  hat  with  wide  brim  and  peaked  crown,  and  a 
yellow  jacket  belonging  lo  tlic  boy.  He  was  rot  to  use 
tliein  a.L'ain,  for  frou'  the  Im('  carnc  st(Ttorou>  breatli- 
ing,  which  continually  reminded  us  that  death  was 


A  MOHAMMEDAN  KEBELLIOX 


67 


claiming  its  victim.  Suddenly  through  the  impressive 
stilln('*s  ning  a  sliout.  tlicn  iinotlior,  some  barking  of 
♦  logs,  then  a  few  shot.-,  and  almost  in  a  Hash  from  the 
housetops  near  and  far  rang  cries  of  "  Sha  sa!  Sha  sa!" 
(Eat  meat  I  Eat  meat  I),  the  war-cry  of  the  lamas.  A 
lama  rushed  tlinnigh  the  ronni  whoro  \vc  sat.  calling 
out,  "  \Vh('re".s  my  spear?  (iive  me  my  spoarl  Tiu' 
rebels  have  come!" — ^and,  having  obtained  it,  joined 
his  comrades  on  the  roof.  ^Ir.  Rijnhart  said  he  would 
go  for  a  moment  t  -  the  'louse-top  to  soc  if  tlicro  were 
I'i'ally  danger,  and  being  alone  with  the  diild,  1  prayed 
I  bat  (lod  would  ])reserve  us  from  failing  alive  into  the 
liands  of  the  Mohammedans.  The  noise  soon  ceased, 
and,  to  our  joy,  we  found  that  it  had  been  a  false  alarm 
caught  up  oy  the  sentries  around  Kumbum,  from  those 
about  Lusar,  who  luul  seen  a  large  body  of  rebels  pass- 
ing in  the  distance  to  pillage  another  village,  and  had 
given  the  note  of  alarm,  thinking  that  we  were  to  be 
attacked.  This  was  only  one  of  the  many  times  that 
alarms  were  sounded  during  both  night  and  day  for 
the  following  months. 

l\arly  the  next  morning  llir>  young  fiiifch  died,  and 
his  obi  uncle,  to  whom  tlie  little  life  was  so  prei  ious. 
shortly  afterwards  committed  suicide  by  taking  a  large 
di>~e  of  ojiiiiin  :  for  he  ^ailI  he  could  not  bear  to  live  in 
prospect  of  the  known  possibility  of  seeing  his  elder 
l»rother  die  a  third  time! 

Orn  man!  p.iJnio  hum,  the  Sunrise  coiros! 
TL  '  Di  ■•■  I:''!'  -lijis  in'i'  the  -hininp  Sen! 

So  sings  the  poet,  but  for  thai  old  lama  there  was 
neither  sunrise  nor  shining  sea,  but,  according  to  his 
own  confession,  grief,  despair  and  darkness. 


CTIAPTKR  TV 


\\  I  i  ll   i  iii;  \\  ni 

KfJ'ii-ccs  iit  Sinin-— Uiir  lM,|;iii,m  ;il  Kiinihiiiii— TIic 
Si(-v  (if  Slu'ii-Cli'iiii— Tn  tiif  lJalt!i-li,.|.l— A  IJi.l.- 
for  Life— Kont  of  the  Arolianimcdiiiis. 

Prcijaratioius  lor  imtimg  lUv  ix\>fU  went  ..u  apii.c. 
Scutrk's  woro  placed  on  the  Lunascrv  t<.\viTs  and  on 
llif  iiliiKi.-t  cniii  i,-iinii~  lull,,  iv;i(!y  tn  givo  tlu!  alarm 
wlu'ii  daii;:cr  lluviilfiici].    Cruwd-  with  .hMun 

swords  siur-cd  tlin)u-;li  tlic  .Mivcts,  or  as.-..Mil)k'd  on  ilir 
liousc-tops  to  diHciis.s  the  latost  reports  from  the  field. 
Our  co-work.-r.  Mr.  l"rr-ii-i.ii.  luiviiiir  important  busi- 
ness at  Shaii^^lmi,  di-cidcd  in  travc  I'm  tlic  cua-t.  Ii 
was  a  iiazardous  undertaking,  yet  it  >eemed  inevitable. 
As  the  road  was  still  open  wo  aceonipanied  hint  to 
Sininjr.    .\ntiei])atin<r  ]M'nions  times  during?  the  monlhs 
I"  rnmc.  wv  tliuiiL:!'!   u,>  iiiinbl   ilut   livi'  1.)  ~vi'  him 
a>iaiii.     .Morfov.'i    we  dcMivd,  while  still   po-Mhle,  i.t 
visit  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Ridley  k-fore  being  e.it  (.11'  alto- 
gether from  all  intercourse  with  European  friends  or 
fntin  the  si-ht  of  a  wliiic  fair,  and  a-ain  more  par- 
ticularly, our  prcx  iHc  in  Siniiig  was  necessary  in  order 
to  make  final  arrangements  for  Mr.  Ferguson's  jour- 
ney.    As  we  went  along  there  were  no  signs  of 


WITH  viii:  \vor\i)i:i> 


frinilili'-,  in  luiiiiy  of  ihr  viluijrcs  the  ]pc<.]ilc  did 
nut  t^ofui  to  aitpri'ciiitc  tlif  gravity  ui'  tlif  >iuiation, 
for  thoy  wt'iv  ongag-tl  in  tluir  ordinary  avoca- 
tions; and,  cxcopt  a  body  of  red-jackotod  (^hint'so 
troops  wild  eriisscd  mir  j  atli  on  llioir  wny  to  attack  a 
rebel  oiicainiiiiK'ni  in  a  town  two  day.-'  joiirnfy  to  tiic 
north,  wo  saw  nothing  to  ?ugge>t  the  terror  which  had 
spread  in  other  parts.  I'pon  reaching  Sining,  however, 
we  found  tlir  nbcllion  bad  Ih'imi  ra^^in^'  in  carnot  in 
lbt>  northern  vaUey.  Hundreds  ol"  lionieless  and 
wouniled  peojde  seei<ing  shelter  were  tloeking  into  the 
already  overcrowded  city,  whore  the  temples  were 
turned  into  temitorary  lin-pitals.  to  wliidi  the  Chinese 
missionaries.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  I'idlry  and  Mr.  Hail,  daily 
repaired,  ministering  with  soothing  ointments  to  the 
poor  creatures  who  had  l)oen  Imrnefl  in  the  flames  that 
liad  turned  their  homes  to  a~l;i-.  and  liandairing  the 
giia.-tly  wounds  made  by  Molianini',  .Ian  builrts  and 
swords.  Soiuo  of  the  wounded  had  eruwled  on  their 
hands  and  knees  for  distances  a;'  great  as  seventeen 
miles,  and  arrived  nioiv  cl<ad  than  ali\e.  A-  tlir 
refugees  inerea-e(l  in  numliir  dijihtluria  and  -;m.i!l- 
po.x  were  rife,  and  Mrs.  IJidley  moved  among  the  p.i- 
tients  stricken  with  these  dread  diseases  hoping  agaiii.-t 
the  danger  of  infection  to  which  herself  and  her 
precious  little  Dora,  only  a  few  nnuitlis  old.  were  sub- 
jected, yet  not  aide  to  do  otherwise  tlian  help  to  allevi- 
ate the  awful  sutfering  about  her.  Travel  to  I^aneheo 
lx>ing  still  jiossible,  though  not  very  safe.  Mr.  Ferguson 
adhered  to  hi-  purpose  to  pn  --  on  to  the  ina^t.  -o  we 
said  g(Mjd-l»ye  to  him  and  reluctantly  turned  back  to 


70 


WITH  THE  TIBETAN'S 


Kumbum.  whore  we  wore  soon  completolv  isolated. 
Ton  mik'j?  to  the  northwest  of  u,^  tlio  Molmmmcu.; 
li'i'I  i'im^mmI  in  tliuu.siiKl-  .11  Topa,  from  which  strong- 
'"'""1  maraudin-  l,an.|.  nl'  i !:,.,„  Moinv.l  the  country 
iM'twooii  tiioir  own  ].o>itiou  and  Kii  iihiim,  rcndoriiiir 
It  unsafe  for  anyone  to  venture  more  than  two  nulos 
""i-th  of  tlie  lama.  i  v^yH^flvo  mih>s  on  the  opposite 
sido.  tlio  villa-,,  of  SirTrrTiin.  the  .Mohaminodan  por- 
tion ol'  wlio>e  iulialiitant.-.  joined  the  !vl«d..  iMvanir  a 
veritable  >^oat  of  war.    The  conibi.u  d  .vb.  I  lor.rs  ol' 
Sb..n-,iriin  and  lan-maoko,  another  villa<?e  over  the 
''11  ■■nad.    n,    their   diMnn  aii.l 

nias.sicrod  the  Cliino.H.  by  bundrr.ls.  Thu<  iini)ii- 
<'ne<l  for  nearly  six  months,  we  rec  ivd  no  rrliaid..  in- 
i'-niiation  as  to  what  was  hapix-ninfj  at  Sinin^r  and  in 
-Ibor  diMn.ts.  but  ovmts  around  Kinnbum  wore  stir- 
ring enough  and  (|iute  sullioimt  to  ab.ori)  our  atl.-n- 
tion,  until  the  road  to  Sining  shoiibl  b,-  again  open 
iind  wo  eould  learn  the  intervening  history  of  the 
rebels*  iiiovcnicnls. 

Miiia  l'nv,.h.  for  that  was  tlu>  Zvm///-/,s  nani.\  --ivo 
us  ev.-ry  day  new  evidon<o>  of  his  friond..Iiip.    Sid.-  bv 
side  with  tl...  problems  of  defending  the  lamasery  anil 
sii[..'nni,.nding  th..  gn^it  pri.-thood.  hr  ..vni..!  to  have 
jdac.-.l  that  of  our  ]M  rM,nal  sifdv.    jj,.  h^id  ('.  vi.,,!  a 
plan  whereby  we  might  os.ape  .hould  liio  Moham- 
">'Mlai.~  ,n  su|K'rior  foree  attack  the  lamaserv,  and 
should  It  h,..on...  rvidrnt  ihat  ihr  l.iiMas  could  not  re- 
I.ulse  thoni.    I  ndor  ,  o\rr  of  dark;,,  -,  ]„.  proposal  that 
"•e  .should  flee  with  bun  to  Kuoi-ioh,  where  lie  had  a 
house  and  where  he  wouhl  give  us  shelter,  food  and 
clothinL'  until  wo  .-onld  h.-ar  from  th..  homeland.  While 


WTTTT  TTTE  WOrXDED  71 

;ho  roiul  tn  Kuci-tch  wn-  yot  pii--iililt'.  iiiid  tln'  ivports 
'ccpt  coiiuiig  in  that  tin'  rebels  were  huniliig  one  village 
after  another,  tlie  katipo  sent  trusty  men  thither  with 
boxes  eoiitiiiiiiiig  his  prec  i(nis  treasures.  Ilciuniiii;,'  to 
Kuniliiim  the  nun  were  I'iillcn  >i]i<iii  l)y  rdlilur-.  wlm 
made  oil  with  the  k'niipo's  vaiualtle  mules,  eleven  in 
nuniher,  and  severely  wounded  two  of  the  men.  So 
unsafe  had  the  road  Income  tlint  even  llie  hanpo's 
sacrr<l  ]i(w-.c-;si(Mis  were  Hot  free  irKiii  liri;.Mndajre. 

The  (li>(  ii>sion  (>r  plans  for  mir  safety  was  ai>par- 
ently  not  premature,  for  evrv  day  came  news  of  fresh 
victories  for  the  Mdiiaiiiincda!!-.  wlio-'^  -.wm^  peeimd 
to  prevail  on  every  liainl.  i!\rry  day  rel'iii:i'<'~  arrived 
at  the  lamasery;  <iek  and  wounded  were  brou<,dit  in 
from  all  directions  t<»  receive  our  treatment,  the  news 
having  spread  that  the  foreijrn  doctors,  under  the  very 
roof  and  patronage  of  the  ali'ioi.  were  pcrforniin:! 
miracles  of  lu  aling  and  were  i)iepared  to  treat  all  wli  ) 
(ame  to  them. 

Among  the  most  interesting  of  our  patients  was  an 
old  man.  Chinese  liv  liirtli.  hut  pM--('--in;_'  the  eourajrc 
and  daring  of  a  Tihetan,  who  li:el  lici  u  apiioinled  a 
leailt-r  over  fifty  of  tiie  local  troops,  and  had  set  out 
one  morning  to  aid  some  Chinese  in  an  adjoining 
villa;''!-  to  repulse  an  attack  hy  rel.'il-  TreaHicrously 
one  of  his  tneii.  a  cariicnter.  liad  -taMied  liini  in  the 
elliow,  some  said  ix'cause  the  former  was  in  the  pay 
of  the  Mohammedans,  who  were  anxious  to  be  rid  of 
such  an  able  opponent  a<  (  lu  o  I,;^o-yeh,  the  old  in^ui. 
was  ])roving  himsi'lf  to  lie.  Tln'V  rcineinhi'red  hi^ 
eHieient    service   in    the    fornitr   ri'ltfllion.    in  wliiih. 


72 


WITH  TIIR  TIBETAXS 


though  woniidid  sewn  tiiufs,  he  had  dealt  them  many  a 
crushing  defoat.   The  treaclicrotis  thrust  had  made  nn 
u-rly  wound  in  his  arm,  but  the  family  Ix'ing  rich,  and 
coii>c.iiiciilly  al.lo  to  give  him  ..very  attontion,  wliilr 
I  .spared  no  pains  to  aid  in        recovery,  eaeh  day 
marked  improvement.    His  wife  was  u  Mongol.  His 
only  (  liild  was  an  aiiiactive  young  married  woman  of 
twenty  wearing  the  Mongol  eo.-tiime,  wliieh  was  verv 
hec-oining  to  her,  while  her  prelty  liule  baby  eoni- 
pit  n  .l  ilif  family  group  and  added  much  gladness  to 
lUv  l.iiK  ly  hours  ilie  old  man  spent  on  the  k'aiuj.  .Alany 
were  ilie  presents  and  inealculable  kindne.<.<es  be.-t..\\r.'l 
upon  uH  by  this  man,  and  when  later  he  died  wiiiie  \m' 
were  away  from  home,  he  asked  his  daughter  to  giv(! 
eaeh  oT      a  ro>ary  he  ha.l  worn,  ;,^ilts  nhiili  we  prized 
very  iiim  li  lor  we  knew  llay  were  tokens  of  sineere 
gratitude  and  love. 

.Shcn-ih"un  ua.^  ilu-  .vceiie  of  much  strife,  at  first 
only    belv.etii    the    Molianiiuvilans   and    Chinese  iii- 
ireiiehed  in  their  respective  forts,  and  eonsi.-liiig  of  bat- 
tles between  small  parties  who  would  sally  out  to  glean 
in  the  fields,  or  jratli.  r  riiel,  the  siieeesses  and  failures 
being  about  ev.'uly  divided  brtu.-.'n  the  oppo-ing  forces. 
By  degrees  the  strength  of  the  flunoe  portion  of  tliH 
village  had  been  reduoeil,  the  last  detachment  of  young 
men  liaving  bwii  eoinplri,ly  rut  to  pi,res  during  a 
sortie,  >o  that  the  In  lra-ured  ami  lirlpiess  inhabitants, 
consisting  now  only  of  old  men,  women  and  ehildren, 
:ipj)ealed  for  succor  to  the  lamas'  army,  and  the  loc  al 
(■Inne>e  troops     Contrarv  lo  the  ablwt's  wishes,  the 
lama  soldiers,  havnig  taken  al!  ilieir  arms  to  a  temple 
to  he  blessed,  sallied  out  one  morning  to  attack  the 


WI  TH  'riii;  worxDEi)  73 

rc'l)(.'l~.    'I'hfir  |)i-ii'>tly  n.hc^  ilirown  fi-ido  for  tlu-  mo- 
iiK'Ht,  tluy  wore  tlif  onliiiary  laymairs  red  and  yellow 
garmeiitri  with  multifold  red  turbans  of  raw  silk  wound 
around  their  head:-.    Armed  with  guns,  .sword.-,  and 
p])ears,  einially  dividrd  iH'twern  infaiilry  and  <ava!ry. 
tlic  latter  luing  niouiileil  on  splendid  pomes,  tlie  dark 
eyes  of  all  Hashing  with  rage  and  the  thirst  for  re- 
venge, thoy  presented  such  a  warlike  appearance  as 
facilitated  our  realization  of  tlie  gallant  defense  our 
lama  arniv  would  oiler  iu  ca>e  the  rebels  attacked  the 
iama.-ery   fortress.     I'resently   the   Chinese  soldiers 
from  Lusar  having  formed  in  battle  array,  some  wear- 
ing bright  F(arl('t  military  ja.kd-.  Inif  tlie  majority 
clad  in  the  Idiic  ol'  everyday  lifr.  marched  out  to  join 
the  lamas.    A  lew  were  mounted  and  carried  bright 
colored  flags,  while  the  remainder  on  foot  were  fur- 
nished with  swords,  and  a  few  guns.   The  departure  (,r 
tlu'  two  detachments  was  among  the  most  aileeting 
anil  picture-nue  sights  1  have  ever  witnessed.    The  en- 
tire j)oi>ulalioii  of  Kunibum  and  Lu.sar  was  mas.«ed 
on  the  flat  roof-  of  the  iamanTy  buildings  to  sei-  them  - 
otT.  while  •  ■■•■■'.v  ili"  ■liu  that  nxc  from  ilic  multitude 
could  be  held  the  click  of  praycr-whc  lN  anient  mul- 
Icriugs  of  the  niy-^lic  phrase,  nin  mani  /xi'Ime  liuiii,  and 
low  incantations  of  the  remaining  lam.is,  all  nf  which  % 
;;i:;:'u  (1  ^uiccss  to  their  lu(aliers-iii-nrms.    The  more 
daring  mounted  their  horsc>  and  aceompaaied  them  to 
the  summit  of  a  hill  which  overlooked  the  scene  of  the 
impending  battle,  ourselves  being  among  the  number.  | 
The  morning  .'^un.  now  high  in  the  hea\ons,  gilded  the  |, 
en-ts  of  the  distant  hill^  ai.d  likewi.^e  threw  his  brill-       .  * 


I 


74 


WITH  Trin  TrRKTANS 


i^mt  >hecn  ui.o„  ilu.  i.nl.ni-.  ,v,|.  1,1,,,.  ,,,„l  uUn.v  mlxw 
of  tlu.  ,U..ky  lamas  mn\  U,;nw.v,\-Uuvd  Clmuunon,  tho 
'■>aiiv-cu|n,v.l  banners  of  tl...  mounted  ensign.s,  the 
'""■"'-l'la>l-<l  ^|.n.r>  an.l  ;,„d  the  glitterinc 

'^"l'<nj>uns  or  the.  lie:.  wl,.!.  .very  remaining 

<U'W  (  rop  amid  the  grcvi,  Mvar.l  ov.r  which  thrv  ,n..l 
ray  of  splon.lor  to  the  soene.    Having  aceum- 
i';'""-'        > '•'">].>  lo  ih..  I.nnv  or  th..  hiil.  wo  watched 
tlu'.r  winding  cu»r>..  ,hr„„.|,  ,|,,  ,,„„,  ,„„, 
'ttle  river  until  thry  cam..  ,nio  pn.xi.nitv  to  ih.  M.,- 
K..„Mu.,lun  fort.    On  the  trail  at  a  litth-' distan. r  l.,- 
I""-       .Tinv  Muud  thv  .<u,„j  h-imn,  with  sword  in  hand 
n-ady  to  kill  ,!,,.  i],-,,  chi,,,,,,,,,         ^j,,,,,,^,  ^_^^„^^: 
Irom  the  light.    It  appears  that  ili,.  eh,,,,,., 
former  erise.  left  the  lamas  in  fl...  h,rd..  hnu-,  the 
'i'""v-  measure  to  prevent  a  repetition  of  such 
eowardue. 

The  .tunning  of  ti,e  fort  was  >oo„  ,„  i',,!]  the 
hunas  doing  the  greater  share  of  the  ligiuu,-  1,,  .,„ 
■•'ttempt  to  set  lire  i„  ,he  gate  they  w.-re  me^  hy  suel, 
^'"•"■n-^  (.f  Mune>  hurled  down  upon  them  from  the 
"I'ligvd  to  n.tp..!.  not  u.fi.M.t  lo.. 
I."t  suc-h  fighting  ability  did  they  betrav  that  ih,  .'ebels 
I'JTing  another  onslaught,  summoned  the  aid  of  five 
""■"•i-!  "iHTt  SaL.r  ]nark>nie„.  and  reinforced  by  the 

lattemrtd..     f,vsh  afaek  on  ,l,e  CI,,,,   (•„,., 

fhom.   \yi,ti,.  they  ha.l  Ih.-u  engaged  w,,b  the  K„„,b,„n 
ruop.,  the  riiinese  wo,nen  and  what  few  .,ld  men  were 

left,  had  placed  gre;,l  .,f  „„  ^^..j,^ 

which  they  evp,.,,,„|  ,„  ,„,„  M,d,amn.e,l^n< 
or  id  least  keep  tl,e,n  fi..„,  ..lUerin-  ih..  gate;  but  the 


wnii 


75 


liittcr.  iliirin;:  tlic  ni^-lil,  lim!  (umilv  <!ii;.'  the 
iMiiil  wall.  Mvcral  reel  in  tliickiic?.-,  and  early  urxl 
luoiiiiiig  t'ircttt'd  un  entraiut'.  The  Chinese  women 
fought  like  tigresses,  and  though  many  of  them  died 
like  heroines  in  dcri'ii.-i.'  of  their  homo,  tlu'V  wviv  of 
roiirsi'  ov('ri>oucri(l.  Almost  the  whole  remaining 
population  was  put  to  the  swoni,  exeept  only  a  few, 
who  made  their  esca})e  to  Kunihum.  On  the  day  of 
tiu'ir  arrival  tlitrc  wa-  alni'i-t  hmmIi  cxcitcniiMit  ;<s 
on  the  ilav  of  the  ilcparluri'  fif  llir  iruop-.  Aiiaiii  the 
roofs  of  the  laiinist'ry  were  crowded,  a>  well  as  tiie 
streets,  to  see,  as  they  passed  thron},'h  the  gates,  tlu; 
sole  survivor-  of  the  Imi:;  >iege,  a  few  old  men,  some 
woniiMi  and  tliihiicn,  r.u  li  carrvinir  snmr  .-ad  nicinmto 
(d'  the  .-aiiguiiiary  ^lru,i:;,dc,  a  lia;,'  of  food,  a  l«asiii  or 
a  hrass  pot,  all  that  now  r<  niained  to  them  in  the  world. 
\\  lial  tail's  of  \\i,v  and  sullV'rin;;  v.i  rc  w  r!t:'  n  in  their' 
.sid  t'a(('>I  l''aliu'r>  and  lirotlirr-  -lain  an^l  ii  H't'  -  (h - 
stroyt'dl  (»idy  .1  sen?e  of  f(ar  f-ccinrd  to  \f  h  fi  m 
their  iialure  afltr  so  many  Ion;;  iii;:l!t<  of  dreadful 
vipil  in  the  fort,  their  hrarl>  tillid  uah  horror  hy  Un; 
wanton  crtH'lty  and  llau'ianl  iiduiiiiaiiiiy  v  iih  nliirh 
the  .Mohammedans  had  treated  even  defen-ek'.-:^  wdineii 
and  ehildren.  Tiierc  were  few  dry  eyes  in  Kumhuin 
that  morning.  The  sentiment  of  revenge  was  high,  and 
what  wonder?  as  tale-  ke]>t  [innriiig  into  the  lania-ery 
of  women  antl  eliii  Ircn  iiuriied  alive,  (d'  hltle  .-Iieplierd 
l)oys  pierced  through  and  through  while  tK'side  some 
stream  they  watehod  tlieir  fathers'  (locks,  of  little  in- 
fant^  carried  about  on  llie  points  of  -p^ars,  wiiile  ever 
and   anon   bome   wound-eovered   victim,   perhaps  a 


if 


Tin:  TH'.KTAvs 

CTH«-|  M.to  ,1...  l,„K.>,.n  lr..,„  ,h, 

'\         -     -  ■  '1.0   .-y...    Tlu.  «ud.ll.,M 

?"r;\"'  •  I-         '  '  i         tempi.,  of  ,|„. 

"1  'V       ■>,„:  ...  \uul  h.v,„H..  u  |,.,M.i,;,: 

an.  our  hand.  „vv  1„1I.    A,,,,,,,,    tl.o  ,.a,Kul-  u  

>uin.nn.-  m.,  .  toudK..!  hoar,,  wa- lul.l  l.rou.^hi 


'•"1-^^"'  ^i^'-  .  i"'aril,,uM- m  hi.  lath.  iMMh-.'  -Jvii^ 
'"'•liim.  i.iHl  iMuuiM^ivIit  j,,v  U.  „, 


<I(.t1\  \\(. 


N.on  alUTllH.  Minn,...,M>u,|..„r,sh..u-H.-uu  a  1,  .,|v 
"i  <l.,iu.>c.  an.l  T,l„.|aM  ..hli.-r..  an,u..l  uhh  r,.,,  ,  .,, 

I.,,     „M  „j.i„„. 

.lut  had  n>  1        i„.,  „ 
|;'v.^  lH.ifr  .m.l..,.H.  I.rav.  Chin.....  vvoMH.n.  ami  all 
'■"  n.lni,ut.,.n  for  ,1...  M.,- 

-i-  m.,>-:,in.  „. ,  i 

"'••■r   IH-  l..nn,.r  .,nan„.l  ..„.■  .nl.       ,h,.  ,,.!.!  p..,. 
"I..  Uu.  lama  .my  simul,an..nu  U  a-aul,...|  .h. 
'  ■  M.,!,,-,Mn,H.,lan  horM.,,..-!,  s,vn  |.. 

;;r had  at  .hu.u.im.J'.,:?hI:  t; 

...  I..r  >n,M..  „,,-■,, ..ni.  rea«m,  a  retreat  was 

^""""-''"■l-i..-.ml>lH.  whuk.  amv  r..,unu.d. 
tiH.munu„i:  n  ^va.  ex,..v,..d.  of  ....,„>..., hat  an„l,„, 
.•ttuek  ,vc,ul(   bemad..,  l,...t  it  u a.  Earned  that  lar 
I..  I..u-u.h  wa.  (....uerned.  the  Mohammedans  miirht 

h.,  ,        '  "If-^pm.d  that 

had    eaten  .Muhammcdaa  Mher.- ori„  otiu.r  u„nU 
bc^'U  bribed,  that  he  h.t  hi.  p.,  . 


WITH  TIIK  WOI  NDKIJ 


77 


lu-C  111.-  lir.ul,  it  V  il>  (lllly  ImCIUIm'  thr  lii  ll->>ii'l,  t'Y  <  (»IH- 

mull  iK-'opk',  could  not  got  ll.t  ir  liaiul.-)  on  iiiiii  lu  lariy 
out  the  sentence  which  all  htid  pai>K>(l  on  him  in  their 

iiiiiiil>. 

Tlioiigli  iiuml)<T>  d'  the  n  In  N  IkhI  lalti'ii  iluriiig  the 
tlay'-s  flgliling,  iho  caj-ualliih  among  tlio  Cliiiu.-c  ami 
Til)otanH  wore  also  serious.  Early  in  the  day  a  band 
of  Iwciitv  sdldiiT.-  came  to  tin-  lamaMTV  ro<|iu  tiiij;  Mr. 
Hijtihiiil  and  iiiv-clf  tn  v.n  \n  tlic  lialtlcficld  and  look 
after  llii  ir  woniidod  cnmitanions,  ollVriM','  I  lifin  ■i'lv('.-> 
us  our  I'Sforl  to  the  mciic  of  carnape.  The  [iiu-iiirt  of 
riding  to  within  a  niiK-  of  the  n  lx  l  |iu-iiion  was  not  in- 
viting, l)Ul  when  \\v  tlin  1:1  "I"  till'  Mdfriings  of  our 
lama  soldier.-,  and  oui  abdity  to  iielit  llio.-i.'  who  hud" 
risked  their  lives  in  defense  of  helpless  women  and 
children,  and  who  might  ere  long  he  called  upon  to  de- 
fend us  at  llie  lamasery,  and  n  inein''  rin;r  that  wi' 
were  servants  of  Ilim  who  "went  abuul  licaliii;,'  all 
liiat  were  oppresBed,"  we  hesilated  not.  Having  pre- 
pared our  surgical  ami  medical  supplies  we  rode  oif 
with  our  «'.-iort.  each  one  of  \\\  >n\\  was  armed  to  the 
toetli.  A-  we  traveled  on  ani'Mi;,'  the  hills,  some  acted 
as  scout.-  to  see  that  the  road  was  clear,  while  the 
others  surrounding  us  sought  to  make  us  fc>el  safe  in 
their  keepinjr.  at  the  same  time  expressing  their  grati- 
tude to  us  for  havinj;  eomc. 

On  our  arrival  at  the  viHago  wc  inund  it  teeming 
with  soldiers,  some  of  whom  ushered  us  at  once  into 
the  (piarlcrs  of  the  wounded.  Wc  worked  hard  all 
day  bandaging  cuts  and  oxlr;  jting  ludlels,  attending 
to  the  most  serious  ca.-e.^  Ur.-t,  hut  at  .-uiitct  wc  hail  not 


MICROCOPY  RESOlUTiON  TEST  CHART 

lANSI  nnd  ISO  TEST  CHART  No  2 


_^    /APPLIED  INA^GE  Inc 


,  7ibi  *8?     0100  -  t!*>one 


78 


WITH  TJli.;  TIUKTANS 


coiiie  to  tlio  .11(1  of  the  list.    Fooling  it  was  unwi(*e 

to  pii>s  tlio  iii^^Iit  so  near  tlie  ^loliaiiiiiuMlaii  position, 
ospeoially  as  every  available  corner  in  the  vilhiire  was 
already  ocouiiied  by  soldiers,  we  decided  to  return  to 
Kiimbunu  intending  to  finish  treating  the  wounded 
men  on  the  loHowing  day.    Silently,  aeeonipaiiied  by 
niir  escort,  we  tra\tied  homeward  under  tlie  li^dit  of  the 
harvest  moon,  our  scouts  peering  through  every  vallev 
and  defile,  lest  haply  we  might  be  fallen  upon  hy  lurk- 
ing Molijiinmedan  hoivemen.    On  our  arrival  at  Kiiiii- 
buni  we  found  the  lamasery  gates  e!o>ei!.  and  as  ilie 
eye  of  the  sentry  caught  sight  of  such  a  large  body  of 
soldiers,  he  became  suspicious  and  refused  to  admit 
ns,  fearing  some  kind  of  treachery  or  strategcm.  The 
lamas  gathered  on  the  roof,  Mr.  K'ijniiart  steppeil  out 
where  he  eoulil  be  heard  and  shouted  to  them  that  he  wa.-, 
the  foreign  doctor  returning  from  a  visit  to  the  wound- 
ed, and  that  the  soldiers  were  bis  escort.    1  also  spoke 
up  corroborating  Mr.  Iiijnhart's  words,  wIi<'reu|)on  tlu' 
gate-keeper  cautiously  opened  the  ponderous  gate  and 
let  us  in. 

Shortly  after  sunrise  next  day  we  started  again  for 
Kiai-ya.  'i'lic  moriiing  ;iir  was  crisp  and  exhilaratim'. 
and  we  rode  with  a  feeling  of  greater  repose  than  on  the 
evening  previous.  As  vet  very  few  people  were  astir, 
liere  a  lama  carrying  a  water-bucket  on  his  broad  back, 
ther(>  an  early  traveler  setting  out  for  tlie  Lii>ar  market, 
or  a  farmer  with  a  donkey-load  of  straw,  or  fcu-L-iuti- 
tsi,  arr/ols  pressed  into  brick  form,  to  be  sold  to  the 
lamas.  W  hen  we  reached  Kiai-ya  we  found  our  wounded 
men  doing  well,  and  by  noon  we  had  attended  to  the 


WITH  THE  WOUNDED 


79 


cases  left  over  from  the  preceding  day.  Our  reputation 
liaviii^'  spread  thinujih  the  villagi"  wo  were  called  upon 
hi  \  i.-il  a  young  j^irl  of  .-ixtcon  who  lia<l  acciileiitally 
b\\n[  below  the  left  kuco  two  nioiitlis  heforc.  The  wound 
was  a  ghastly  siglit,  the  leg  l)eing  shattered  for  sev- 
eral inehe.-.  Native  diic  tniv  muM  do  notiiing;  tlic  liinl) 
had  not  even  heen  baiida-cd.  Oidy  after  such  a  siglit 
docs  one  ap[)reeiale  the  hK'>sings  wliieli  the  sciences  of 
medicine  and  surgery  hiy  at  the  feet  of  the  sick  and 
suffering  in  ('li!'<tian  lands.  We  informed  the  girl's 
friends  th.it  oniy  the  amputnt imh  of  the  diseased  mem- 
ber could  ell'ect  a  cure,  a  proi)osal  wliieii  tiiey  resolutely 
refused  to  entertain,  in  a  cordance  with  the  Oonfiieian 
teaching  that  a  person  should  iniit  this  life  with  an 
entire  b'uly.  An<l  ^o  we  had  to  leave  her,  though  the 
wliole  house  reeked  with  the  stench  of  the  wound,  nor 
were  we  surprised  to  hear  shortly  afterwards  that  she 
was  dead. 

Our  medieal  work  ijcing  done,  we  were  sitting  in  the 
yrtinrii  being  entertained  at  luncheon  by  the  Chinese 
commander,  when  suddenly  the  call  to  arms  was  beaten 
and  the  alarm  given  that  the  Mohammedans  in  largo 
forces  were  i>>uii!g  from  their  stronghold.  While  tiie 
soMiers  seized  tlieir  wea)ions  and  rushed  into  battle 
array,  we  demanded  our  escort  and  set  out  for  home. 
The  first  part  of  the  way  led  along  a  hollow  road  worn 
deep  with  the  travel  of  ages,  with  sides  so  steep  and 
high,  that  everything  was  concealed  from  view,  ami 
when  we  had  emerged  from  it,  on  an  incline  overlook- 
ing the  valley,  we  saw  galloping  toward  us  a  hody  of 
rebel  horsemen,  who  had  seen  us  leave  Kiai-ya  and 


80 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


were  oiidcavoriiig  to  head  us  olt.  The  Tibetans  spurr- 
ing on  our  bor.H's  rode  Jor  our  lives,  gaining  in 
Kpoed  as  we  galloped  down  the  liill>idi',  at  times  the 
feet  of  our  animals  scarcely  seenring  to  touch  the 
ground.  There  was  not  only  the  danger  of  our  being 
oxertakcn  by  our  pursuers.  Who  knew  i)ut  at  anv  turn 
we  migiit  be  met  by  another  l)an(l  'l  rerhaj)s  alreadv 
they  were  hurrying  to  meet  us  along  another  road  that 
joined  the  one  we  were  traveling  on,  not  far  from  the 
lamasery. 

We  were  not  the  only  ones  whu  h.id  l;ikeii  to  flight. 
The  feeling  of  alarm  at  the  rebels"  sally  having  spivail 
among  all  tiie  villages,  and  even  among  travelers  m  Iio 
had  heard  (he  news  as  they  journeyed  along,  many 
were  fleeing  for  their  lives  on  the  same  roi'd  as  our- 
selves.    i\ot  far  oil',  gaUoping  over   the  hills  and 
valleys  we  saw  a  Koko-nor  Tibetan,  i)referring,  accord- 
ing to  habit,  the  rough  ground  to  the  smooth  road,  pre- 
senting a  doubly  awkward  appearance  in  his  bulky 
sheepskin  gown  inflated  by  the  wind,  and  Iiis  unwieldy 
matchlock  shifting  about  with  every  plunge  of  his  pony, 
which  with  shouts  and  various  gesticulations,  he  urged 
on  toward  the  lamasery.    Safely  passing  the  junction 
of  the  roads  where  we  had  feared  to  meet  a  second  band 
of  rebels,  and  having  far  outrun  our  ])ursuers  whom  the 
hills  now  hid  from  view,  we  dismissed  our  escort, 
thinking  the  moment  opportune  for  them  to  turn  about 
unobserved  and  go  back  to  the  village  by  another  route. 
Then  scarcely  slackening  our  speed  we  rode  on  alone, 
overtaking  many  men  and  women  who  had  been  out 
in  the  fields  gathering  aujols  and  grain,  now  4azed_with 


WITH  THE  WOUNDED 


81 


fear  and  running"  lioltor-skeltor  toward  tlio  haven  for 
which  \\r  al-K  wrvv  iiimin^r.  <>n  rcacliiiig  the  Linwi- 
«'rv.  wo  rnuiid  tliL'  rodlV  i  rowiU'd  willi  our  lama  friund;?, 
who  had  beou  apprised  by  iht-  tL'iit!ie:<  of  tho  rebcli?' 
manoeuvre,  and  had  been  anxious  as  to  our  fate.  How 
welcome  the  scnsic  of  safety  as  we  passed  bcliind  the 
hxigo  gate  that  shut  our  oncmios  outside.  Had  our 
poiiit's  ^luiiibk'd  or  any  other  accident  impeded  our 
progress;  had  there  been  any  dilhculty  at  the  gate  as 
on  the  preeeding  night,  any  dchiy  of  five  minutes 
would  have  liiaile  it  forever  impossible  for  us  to  tell 
the  talc.  Jambula,  an  old  .Mongol  lama  living  in  the 
room  near  ours,  who  had  become  very  much  attached 
to  us,  almost  wept  when  taking  my  liu>band  by  the 
ha-'  's,  lu'  told  us  how  eoneerned  he  had  been  for  our 
tafety  and  how  glad  he  was  to  sec  us  back  alive. 

There  was  great  rejoicing  when  it  was  reported  that 
General  Ho  in  command  of  ten  thousand  soldiers  well 
armed  with  foreign  guns  had  jirossed  his  way  past  the 
rebels  who  had  been  massed  hi  great  numbers  in  the 
ISiao-hsia  or  Xarrow  Gorge "',  where  they  had  hoped 
to  cut  off  the  advance  of  the  imperial  troops.  General 
Ho's  army  was  so  formidable  that  the  r.  bel>,  on  being 
advised  to  disband  rather  than  be  cut  to  pieces,  had 
acted  the  part  of  discretion  and  left  for  home,  thus 
leaving  free  passage  to  General  Ho,  who  soon  arrived  at 
Siniiig  and  joined  hands  with  Brigadier-General  Teng, 
the  clini-f  ■'.  or  chief  military  otlieial  of  tlie  r'ity.  The 
chcn-lai  deserves  the  credit  of  keeping  the  rebels  in 
check  until  the  arrival  of  the  reinforcements;  and  the 
excellent  service  rendered  by  the  latter  with  their  heavy 


82 


WITH  TIIK  TlliKTANS 


t'iiniHiii.  \\rll-iii;imic'(l,  jiiid  llviu'^  halls  .Mroii;,'  c'liDUi;]! 
to  bliuttcr  tiiL'  .Mnliaii)iiu'(l;iii  dcli'iK  r-tuwcr,  tcmp(UMrilv 
freed  the  city  I'n.iii  daiv^vi  ami  made  it  possible  lor  the 
united  imperial  troops  to  hasten  to  the  relief  of  Shon- 
eiriiii.    The  aimouiiccnu'iit  that  the  imperial  army  was 
eoiiiiii-.'  to  s|i>rm  Shcn-i-iruii  caused  thrillinir  exeitciiiciit 
ami  decjHl'i  ll  joy  tliroujilioiit  the  villai,v.-^  near  Kiimbmn 
and  on  tlie  road  to  Sininpr.    The  day  that  the  army 
was  t'xpccted,  nearly  all  tlie  Lusir  people  went  either  to 
a  hill  conimaiidiii--  a  -nod  virw  <,f  ihe  scene  of  battle, 
or  touarils  the  Torts  m  order  to  ])huider  as  soon  as  an 
entry  into  l^Iohammedan  quarters  had  been  made  by 
llu"  coii-iiierin-  her..,  I5ripidier-(icneral  Tenjr,  who  was 
to  those  ChiiK-e  what  i.oni  itolierts  is  (o  the  Hriti-h 
army  aii.l  Admiral  Dewey  to  the  Ameriean,  the  idol  of 
tlie  people.    A  squadron  of  eavalry  came  into  si<,dit 
along  the  Xan  Chuan  or  Southerft  Valley.    \Vc  could 
see  their  numerous  bri;,dit   pennons  wavin.ix  iu  the 
breeze,  the  great  cannon  drawn  by  mules,  and  t!ie  rhm- 
tai  conspicuous  by  his  brilliant  uniform  and  white 
st.  ed.  leading  the  procession.  Then  followed  the  infan- 
1  yy.  all  in  much  better  marching  order  than  any  Chinese 
.M.ldiers  we  had  previou>ly  seen.    On  tliev  (ame  amid 
the  cheers  of  the  people  on  the  hills  and  the  cpiaking 
hearts  of  the  ^loliamrnedans,  who  were  no  doubt  wateh" 
iiig  from  their  looj  lioles.    Soon  they  had  halted  near 
the  rebel  forts  where  tliey  were  welcomed  bv  the  Chine-e 
and  lama  leaders  of  tlie  local  troops  that  had  gone 
forth  to  meet  them.    The  cannon  was  brought  Into 
good  position  for  aimin.ir  at  the  weakest  fort,  the  sol- 
diers were  placed  in  battle  order,  while  the  langmaoko 


WITH  THE  WOrXDED 


83 


Mohammodans  dashed  courageously  down  the  hille  to 
help  tlicir  (iiiiirailet^  even  against  t-uvh  odds.  A  pufT 
(if  siiioki'  rniiii  llio  cnniion.  a  cra-li.  ami  dnwii  went 
jiarL  of  llio  tducr,  altnideil  liv  a  douse  cloud  of  dusl 
and  deafening  cheers  from  our  neighbors  on  the  hill*, 
while  a  look  tlirough  our  telcMope  told  us  that  one 
Mid  of  the  far  from  iiiiiwTa'nablt'  tower  was  gone.  A 
few  more  well-aiiiicd  shots  reduced  tlie  wall,  and  Gen- 
eral Ho,  commanding  a  regiment,  rushed  upon  one  of 
the  forts,  the  general  liiinself  Iieing  shot  in  the  thiuli 
as  a  I'e-ult.  ^!()haniiiieilai;s  lied  in  gron])s  up  the  Iiill, 
liM])iiig  to  escape  across  to  another  valley,  but  they 
only  fell  into  the  hands  of  soldiers  who  had  concealed 
themselves  in  a  hollow  road  to  cut  oft  any  retreat.  Many 
a  niouuti'd  fugitive  we  saw  fall  from  liis  horse,  as  sud- 
denly a  crouching  Chinaman  leaped  up  and  transfixed 
him  with  his  spear.  Those  who  got  out  of  the  reach  of 
sword  and  spear  were  picked  off  by  the  unerring  bullet. 
'Die  entire  hillside  hail  become  a  battle-field,  the 
autumnal  grass  being  literally  stained  with  blood.  It 
was  a  terrible  sight  for  us;  but  to  the  Chinese  ami 
Tibetans  there  was  in  it  the  sweetness  of  revenge.  Un- 
speakable, indeed,  was  the  retribution  that  now  fell 
upon  those  who,  when  they  had  the  upper  hand,  hesi- 
tated at  no  cruelty  and  stooped  to  every  atrocity  known 
to  the  darkened  mind  of  man.  Several  forts  were  taken 
lieforc^  dusk  and  as  C!iine,-i>  object  to  fighting  in 
I  he  dark,  tluy  withdrew.  Iml  (leiieial  Teng  ])laecd  bis 
forces  so  that  the  besieged  might  not  escape  during  the 
night.  As  we  saw  several  wounded  being  carried  in  from 
the  field,  we  Iwtook  ourselves  to  their  quarters  to  render 


84 


WITH  'V\:e  TIBETAXS 


tluni  uiiiitever  strvicc  we  could.    We  were  shown  into 

!i  liiilc  I'odiii,  a  iVw  I'crt  loiiir.  with  only  a  window  a 
font  .-(|uinv.  rroiii  wliitli  n  i^ohlitT,  liy  vii^orou?-! v  ii.-iuj;- 
a  whip,  ki'pt  the  heads  of  the  curious  ones  from  shut- 
tin?  out  the  light,  while  a  number  of  orderlies  amid 
g     nil  shdutiiig,  kt'pt  us  supi'Ilc'il  witli  warm  iind  cold 
l;  wood  for  splints  iiiul  other  nm'>siiii's.  When 
..e  succeeded  in  extracting  a  build  from  a  soldier's  liml) 
he  would  ask  to  see  it,  and  when  it  was  given  to  him 
lie  Would  take  it  lictween  his  lecl    and  gnash  and  grind 
it  in  revenge  for  tiie  jiain  and  >iillVrinLr  il  had  viwi-n] 
him.     Always  '      found  that  in  tiie  minds  of  tiie 
wounded,  the  mam  hope  of  recovery  as  well  as  of  the 
cessation  of  pain,  lay  in  the  extraction  of  the  huUet. 
Darkness  overtn(jk  us  hel'ore  we  had  treated  all  oiir 
wounded  that  night,  and  as  we  wended  our  way  through 
the  narrow  streets  of  the  small  village  of  twenty  homos 
that  quartered  two  tiious;;nd  troops,  we  --aw  soldiers 
sleei)ing  spear  in  hand,  lying  in  corner.-  eorrtyards 
an<l  along  the  streets  all  worn  out  witk  iighj- 
ing,  yet  ready  on  the  slightest  alarm  .  ,  their 

trusted  leader  to  now  dangers  and  new  vici-,x,.es. 

Just  as  we  were  ready  to  retire  a  lou.I  knocking  at 
our  front  gate  announced  the  arrival  of  vivit.)rs,  wlio 
proved  to  be  some  soldiers  coming  to  invite  .Mr.  Kijn- 
hart  to  go  with  them  to  see  a  corporal  who  had  been  shot 
in  the  nunitli.  Though  eonseious  of  the  risk,  he  accom- 
panied them  to  the  village  where  the  rhni-fai  was  (piar- 
tered  and  was  ushered  into  the  presence  of  his  patient, 
who  was  swearing  in  a  loud  voice  and  abusing  everyone 
that  come  within  his  hearing.  The  bullet  was  imbedded 


WITlf  THE  WOUNDED 


85 


hctwocn  tlip  puni  ami  tlic  clict'k  and  had  to  he  probed 
tor.  During  tlii'  operation  the  corporal  swore  and  isi- 
sued  rough  commands  to  his  men  whenever  the  instru- 
ment allowed  him  an  opportunity  to  use  his  tongue. 
yir.  T?ijnliart  maintained  tliat  lliere  was  a  mingling  of 
tlie  pathetic  and  ridiculous  in  the  rage  which  his  pa- 
tient manifested  over  being  obliged  to  carry  in  his 
mouth  even  for  a  short  time  a  rebel's  bullet. 

The  chi'ii-tdi.  though  sik  li  an  etlicient  ppnoral,  had 
not  made  his  investment  of  the  besieged  forts  complete, 
for  during  tlie  night  stealthily  the  Mohommedans  with- 
drew with  their  families  and  valuables.  Making  their 
way  thro.  '}\  the  ranks  of  the  enemy,  they  effei'led 
their  escaj;  to  Topa,  and  the  following  morning  the 
s(»ldiers  and  a  swarm  of  pcli  sing  who  intended  to  loot 
and  plunder,  entered  the  deserted  houses,  finding  bread 
half-baked  in  tlie  fire,  and  other  tokens  of  a  hasty  flight. 
The  Lusar  people  returned  after  they  had  secured  their 
l)Ooty,  presenting  an  amusing  scene  with  tiieir  prizes, 
which  were  for  the  most  part  worthless  baggage,  old 
tables,  cupboards,  broken  i)ots,  worn  ont  bags  with  per- 
haps a  little  grain.  We  realized  how  bitter  was  the  feel- 
ing against  the  rebels  when  we  heard  many  express 
such  delight  at  the  great  massacre  of  Mohammedans  of 
the  day  before,  for  eight  hundred  had  been  killed. 


rHAI'TEI?  V 


MlssKJNs  AM)  MASSACUES 

r.il.If  Sriiool  nt  Lusu'— ^ful,  !iini(..];m  l.Vvolt  ;.:  Sin 
111,-— 'r.Tnl,|c  ShiugliUT  l.y  liii].LTua  .SuKIiiM-s— 'I'll, 
Full  of  Topu— IVacc  nf  I,nst. 

In  the  mid.i  of  ilu^^.  w(in-i„,,.  linu'.^  when  thuiurht- 
of  munlt'r  an.l  ivvon-o  weiv  uj.i)iTi.i..st  in  il„.  pcopk-'s 
iiiiiids,  wv  oiiileavort'd  to  earn  on  tlie  work  of  preach- 
ini,'  ■iUi]  tr.ifliii,-  :i.  veil  n>  of  Ii.Mliii;-.  Thv  i.MjotV  in- 
vilatKin  to  ivsidf  ill  the  liUiui.HTv  wo  cnuid  hut  int.  r- 
im't  as  a  divine  call  to  a  larger  field  of  ii^cfnlncss,  ;i.;d 
iIh'  mnu.  iKc  his  patronage  gave  us  in  the  eyes 

"T  Ihc  |M.n],K.  \vii.  h„!  jinolluT  name  for  oppnrt  null  v - 
!i  ^acivd  dust  fur  wiiid,  wc  fril  «v  >lionM  Im-  iu  ld  re- 
sponsible. Priests  and  laymen,  women  and  cliildren, 
rallied  round  us,  consulting  us  in  their  diinculties  and 
trivm-  us  every  evidence,  of  their  (rust  in  us.  One  of 
the  mo.t  encouraging  features  nf  „nr  inis-ionarv  work 
was  the  Bible  School,  which  wa-  begun  soon  after  our 
"  in-'val  (o  the  lama>ery,  and  held  every  'Wediiesday  and 

 '  i"       bouse  at  Lusar.   The  cliildren. 

who  had  become  alta.  hcd  to  n-^.  even  fnll„win.-  us  in 
the  street,  were  easily  gathered  in  an.l  b,.came  at  ouce 
interested  in  the  colored  T.ible  pictures  that  hung  on 

8« 


MISSION'S  AND  MASSACUKS 


our  walls.   The  k'!.-()ii8  cmbra.  jd  tho  palicnt  points  in 

i'.ililc  hi.-tnrv  iiml  docti  mi^,  l)l•^ilUil,l;,f  ,vil!i  the  torv  of 
Cri'atiim  iiiul  the  Unideii  uf  Kdeii  in  {\w  Old  'IV-iiiiiicMt 
niul  ciidiny  with  liio  ili'iilli  ;ind  rL'.suractinii  .,t"  Jc>iis 
in  tho  Xcw.  Wc  also  gave  them  talks  on  the  Jiife  and 
Jonriicvs  of  St.  Paul,  lluw  deliglited  lliov  une  at  llii' 
.'-tory  of  .TiUol/s  ladder,  ti'Iliii-  as  ;i-  tlicv  L'uxcd  on  \\w 
lecture,  that  they,  too,  would  like  to  cliuib  that  ladder 
liTlu'  ninong  the  angels.  Soon  not  only  the  eliihlrpn 
lait  alMi  ilic  niolliens  came  to  the  lc--ons.  .Ml  wen" 
iniiehed  Ity  the  story  of  the  (Jood  Sarnai'it.iii.  "'{'he 
I'l  l.  -I  and  ihe  l.i'vite  are  just  like  our  pru-ts,"  .said 
Olio  woman.  "  They,  too,  pass  hy  on  tlic  other  side  when 
anyone  is  in  troid)le."  'I'he  women  were  partieularly 
in(ere>trd  in  the  miracle  at  the  ^^ite  of  Nain.  Our  pie- 
liu"  .-howed  a  eily  gate  ju.st  like  a  Ciiineso  one,  and 
that  made  it  so  vivid ;  and  then  the  women  could  enter 
into  the  mother".-  -rief  at  the  death  of  a  son  and  share 
h.  r  joy  when  the  (Ireat  i'liy>ieian  ri'^toivd  the  vital 
spark.  Otiier  ]iietuies  and  the  lessons  sugiri  -ted  l.v 
them  made  deep  impressions,  \iz:  The  Ileal  ^  oi' 
Blind  Bai  iimeus,  The  Prodigal  Son,  The  Death.  i{esnr- 
reetion  and  A.Monsion  of  .Fesus,  Paul  chained  to  a 
lioman  Soldier,  and  Peter  in  Prison. 

Special  mention  must  be  made  of  one  little  Tibetan 
boy  who  never  forgot  anything  we  told  him  ;  the  amount 
•)f  P.ilile  knowledge  he  a((|uired  was  trulv  astoni.-Iiiii"-. 
and  I  fondly  believe  that  his  heart  was  good  in'umd. 
and  Ih.at  some  day  t!ie  good  .>^ee<l  sown  in  it  will  liring 
forth  fruit.  I  shall  never  forget  how  heartily  the  child- 
ren sang  the  hymns  which  with  great  difficulty  we 


WITH  Tin;  TIUKTAXS 


taujiht  tlirrn.    Tli^'  Til.ctiiiH.  «v  r..mi.l.  possess  much 

bettor  of  rilrln,lv  Ihr  Cllillrx  .     T),,.  ,li<,.,)r(ls 

at  fii^l  woiv  .shoclviii-,'.  l)ut  l.v  tlio  hflp  of  Mr.  Uijiiliart"s 
concertina  and  my  violin  the  tunes  were  carried  through. 
On  Christmas  of  is:tr,  wo  gave  the  children  a  fea^t  of 
waflles  1111(1  milk  ton.  Some  of  Iho  woiiioii  prosont  >;iii] 
that  if  ihoir  pooplo  followed  our  doctrine  tlu'v  wouM 
be  better,  and  added  that  we  taught  the  childivn  oiilv 
wluii  no,„|.  :Mr.  Kijnhnrt  spoke  much  with  the 
lamas  iihout  ivii,i,Mous  mattors,  lo.-ing  no  opporliiiiil  v  of 
pa's.-iii^;  ti.e  (iospol  mossago.  Is^hiuima  (lociiircd  tiiiit  if 
the  Mohammedan?  did  not  come  to  attack  Lu.^  ir  and 
KuiiilMim  it  Would  hctause  we  were  tliere  and  had 
l.ravod  to  ihr  "  lioavonly  Kidor  "  to  ^rimrd  us,  and  to 
our  trrtain  kiu.wlodgo  i.shinima  hiinsolf  laid  a-idf  a 
Buddlm  idol  which  he  had  always  takon  to  bod  for  pro- 
todion,  and  j.uf  his  trust  in  the  "Heavenly  Buler." 

Tlio  Chiuoso  Slid  u  (<  won'  carrying  on  our  mission  fnv 
tho  jnirposo  of  aoouniulating  merit  for  oursolvos,  al- 
though they  did  not  dispute  that  our  work  was  good. 
Thoy  mciikmI  incapai.lo  of  conceiving  the  possibility  of 
a  siiiirl,,  (li>in)orostod  action,  much  less  a  life  of  altru- 
ism, and  still  loss  a  mission  of  sacrifice  and  service  out 
of  love  to  God  and  man. 

Tho  fall  of  Shen-ch'un,  descrited  in  the  preceding 
chaj^tcr.  lod  to  the  temporary  opening  of  the  road  to 
Silling,  though  as  yet  only  largo  bodies  of  men  would 
attempt  the  journey,  for  thousands  of  Mohammedans 
roamed  about  the  valleys  on  either  side  of  the  Nan 
rhuan  swooping  ovorything  before  them.  Strange  as 
It  may  soom,  though  Sining  was  not  twenty  miles  from 


MISSIONS  AND  MASSACRES  80 


U8,  wt"  knew  very  little  about  the  pio^'resH  of  the  rebel- 
lion in  its  vicinity,  so  close  hail  1h»  ii  tlic  iiivo^tiiu'iii  of 
Kiiiubiiiii  aiitl  thi'  -mroiintliii^'  viUniro.  At  Iciij,'th  wf 
k'iirnoil  that  lui  luunths  al'tei  tlio  ivlK'liiun  broke  out 
the  .MohumuK'<.lan.>  iii  the  lar;,'i'  rastcm  suburb  of  tho 
city  had  remained  neutral,  and  ipliatitally  tx- 

pro-i'd  llicir  iutciitioa  to  lako  i  wliati'vor  in  tin- 

.-trii;-';:li'  of  ilii'ir  (<)-i'iligioiii-t>.    .  ..i  tbe  C  liiiiesu  dul 
not  lru>t  tlivir  wuiu  iinplRilly,  uiid  kopt  thousands  of 
soldiers  on  the  city  walls,  Iwing  especially  vigilant  on 
(he  >-idc  overlookiiij:  the  MoluiiiuiRdan  (juarttT.  Tbe 
iliiiil.!"  L'at;-  1  v\  hvvn  lianicadcil  ainl  all  tlu'  Iiousch 
iii'ar  ihf  walls  liiul  boon  di'.>lroyed,  lf>t  llu'V  iMij,dit  lie 
used  for  protection  in  case  ot  an  attack.  On  September 
1,  owillL^  no  doubt,  to  icjimtcil  -ikcoms  of  the  ivKi-l 
arms  fl-owlu'iv,  that  which  wa>  l"iig  l'viuv(\  took  plair. 
The  MoliiMiiiuedaiis  in  llic  Milmm  Ijcgan  to  atlauk  tbe 
city,  and  their  cannon  playrd  with  great  precision  on 
the  troops  stc     led  on  tli<'  wall.    Tlu'  rlnii-tai's  gun- 
nors  al.-'-  made     od  pnu  ticc  on  tbe  n-ln  l-  who  swarmed 
or,  tbe  w-ViB  of  the  suburb,  and  so  courageous  and 
determ  "cd  were  the  latter  that  when  the  man  who 
served   lu  cannon  was     ruck  he  was  dragged  away 
liy  aiiolbor,  wlio  took  bis  place  a;ul  this  was  ro- 
[loatcd  six  tmies.    Wbcn  shortly  afterwards  the  gov- 
I'rnment    troops   occupied   the   suburb  a  man  was 
found  pinned  to  his  cannon,  having  been  killed  while 
standing  bravely  at  bis  po-t.     For  days  the  Toikj 
Kuan,  or  "  Eastern   Suburl),""   pruviJcd  a   safe  re- 
treat for  rebels  from  surruundin;,^  districts  who  were 
daring  enough  to  brave  the  cavalry  of  the  chen-tai. 


90 


WITH  THE  TTBETAXS 


and  a])i.mieli  llie  very  wall  of  iIim  tity.  while  the  thou- 
sands of  coura-eoits  iiihabiiaiitr-  oi'  the  suhiirb  seemed 
to  be  filled  with  recklessness^ ;  for,  devoid  of  all  fear, 
they  Fwariiicd   over  the  hills  adjaeeiil    to  the  citv, 
ai)i)areiitly   iinaflVeted  liy   (he  rille-  and   oaiinoii  of 
the  Chinese  troops,  who  were  straining  every  elFon 
to  hold  the  city  until  reinforcements  arrived.  Xoth- 
ing    incensed    the    Chine-e    mmv    than    the  willful 
destnietion  of  the  beautiful  Xjin  ll^i  Si  tmiulr,  („i  a 
hill  just  beside  the  city  walls,  to  whieh  the  Siliing  pro- 
pie  resorted  sometimes  for  worship,  and  sometiiues  to 
witnc-s  theatrical  performances.    These  temples  were 
the  pride  of  the  di>trict  and  so  strong  was  the  popular 
freling  regarding  iheir  de   niction,  tiiat  as  H)on  as  the 
war  was  over,  the  dtcn-tai  and  his  troops  undertook 
the  work  of  rebuilding  them,  sparing  no  jiains  to  restore 
their  former  beauty  and  magnificence. 

•Aflei-  inell'ectual  attempts  to  storm  llie  eily.  the 
Tonrj  Kuan  Jlohammedans  assumed  an  inoll'en>ive  uiii- 
lude,  and  finally  tendered  submission  to  the  citv  gov- 
'■niment.  an  act  that  v.m-  never  locked  upon  wiih"  f^iv.u- 
on  acciunt  of  their  great  treachery  in  n  brl!;,:^  ;,i  iili. 
When  General  Li  with  his  troops  arrived  from  Lan- 
ehen  at  the  city  gates,  he  was  not  allowed  to  enter 
b'cau-e  his  coming  liad  nm  been  olliciallv  announced, 
but  being  regarded  as  a  >ym]>athi/er  with  the  rebels, 
was  compelled  to  take  up  (piartcrs  in  the  suburb  with 
the  Mohammedans.  He  it  was  who  had  advised  the 
latter  to  give  up  further  re~iMance  at  the  Siao  Ifsia, 
and  acted  as  arbitrator  or  nndiaior  between  tlie  b.  lli..;- 
erents,  even  calling  a  meeting  of  all  the  rebel  chiefs 


,MI>-|()NS  AM)  MASSACKKS 


fruiii  the  Nurlheni  Valli-v  and  Tojia  to  di.'^ciij?  terms 
di'  pcaeo.  Coiuimiuiculiou  with  Laiicheo  was  now 
opciU'dj  bodies  of  soldiers  were  stationed  along  the  roads, 
and  reinforcements  lAiiau  to  anive  in  large  numbers 
at  Siniii;:,'.  We  took  ad\ aiila,L:e  of  the  situation  to  pay 
a  visit  to  the  latter  eity.  With  what  deli^^ht  we  anti- 
cipated, and  how-  much  we  enjoyed,  a  reunion  with 
the  missionaries  there,  may  be  imagined,  for  six  long 
\\eai'\  months  had  passed  away  since  we  had  seen  a 
white  face. 

Soon  after  our  return  to  KluhIiuui  s(^nic  of  the  Tun:/ 
Kuan  Mohammedans,  fearing  treachery  on  the  part 
of  the  Chinese,  ([iiietly  left  Sinin,;;  for  other  j)liiccs,  and 
one  of  iheni,  di>uiii.-e(l  as  an  ordinary  Chinaman,  ar- 
rived at  l.u-ar,  but  v.a.s  recognized  by  some  one  and 
put  to  death.  xVs  hiw  captors  were  cutting  his  throat 
with  a  very  blunt  knife,  he  told  tliem  to  use  a  sharper 
one  ami  to  be  (|uiek  alioiit  it.  .\bout  noon  that  day  a 
young  farmer  came  to  our  door  bringing  on  the  end 
of  a  stick  a  human  heart,  saying  that  he  had  been  told 
we  foreigners  ii.-nl  parts  of  the  human  l^idy  tn  mak'' 
mcdii-ine  nf,  and  lie  liad  broiigiii  u>  iln'  inaii  (if  ii 
Mohammedan  for  sale,  expecting  a  large  price  for  it. 
He  was  disappointed  and  even  incredulous  when  we 
.'^aid  we  never  used  any  part  of  the  human  ])ody  for 
such  a  purpose.  The  belief  of  ti:c  Chinese  that  fnivigii- 
crs  in  this  way  manufacture  incdiL-ines  is  made  mucli 
of  by  the  "  IJoxers and  other  fanatics,  and  is  the 
cause  that  leads  up  to  nuuiy  anti-foreign  riots,  in 
which  mission  houses  ai-e  l(*otcd  and  the  missionaries 
themselves  sometimes  kilh  d. 


92 


WITH  THE  TIBKTA.VS 


There  \\;[>:  c<)iiM<loral>k'  Irallic  on  iho  Siiiing  road  aii'l 
by  means  of  messages  that  came  up,  and  our  re])eatetl 
\isits,  we  were  thenceforth  able  to  follow  the  course 
of  ev'iits  in  and  aroiiiul  the  rity.     Toward  tlie  end 
of  rein-uary  General  Wei  arrived  at  Sining  with  his 
army  of  soldiers  from  Central  China,  determined  to 
K'ttlc  the  Mohammedans  of  the  Tong  Kuan  once  for 
all.     For  this  purpo.-e  tliousaiuls  of  the  Emperor'^ 
soldiers  were  quartered  in  tlie  suliurb.    Eight  \ -live  of 
the  young  leaders  were  captured,  led  into  the  city  amid 
the  eheer,  of  the  excited  and  delighted  populace,  and 
belieaded  in  the  front  of  tlie  chcn-hii  ijamcn,  the  heads 
and  bodies  being  thrown  ontsicie  of  the  western  gate 
where  the  dogs  that  had  been  half  starved  Jor  months 
snapped  and  snarled,  while  they  feasted  on  h  .man  flesh. 
The  woi-k  nf  earnage  then  licgan  in  the  suburb  and  thou- 
sands of  juen,  women  and  L-hibh-en  were  rutlik'sslv  mas- 
sacred by  the  imperial  soldiers,  some  said  by  llunan 
men,  others  by  Sining  men,  for  all  recognized  that 
the  slangliter  of  tliose  defenseless  people  was  a  breach 
of  honor,  a  disgrace  to  the  nrmy,  and  so  endeavored 
to  shift  tlie  responsibility  of  the  deed,    ilanv  a  meal 
<d  human  hearts  and  livers  was  partaken  of  bv  soldiers, 
'aIh.  were  anxious  to  possess  ilir  courage  theiV  enemies 
liad  displayed;  and  believing  that  the  .pialities  would 
be  transferred  from  tlie  eaten  heart  to  the  one  who  de- 
voured it,  they  lost  no  opportunity  of  in  this  wav  pos- 
sessing tlicmselves  of  the  admired  reckless  darins  of 
(lie  rel)e]s.  ^ 

As  Topa  had  been  the  refuge  of  the  Mohammedans 
from  captured  villages,  it  was  also  the  center  from 


MISSIONS  AM)  .MASSA('I!i:S 


which  the  anncd  iclii'ls  had  sallied  forth  on  thoir  war- 
like mauoL'Uvrca,  aud  al  the  tiiiic  Cieiieral  Wei  had 
arrived  at  Sluing,  was  the  strongliold  where  it  was 
estimated  that  forty  thousand  were  prepared  to  make  a 
final  stand  against  the  government  troops.  The  chen- 
tai  and  his  soldiers  occupied  C'licn  hai  pu,  a  well  forti- 
fied impregnable  Chinese  fort  a  mile  from  Topa,  which 
latter  was  situated  across  the  Hsi-ho  river  that  pro- 
tected it  on  one  side  as  there  was  no  bridge,  while 
hills  surrounded  it  on  the  other  sides,  providing  on 
the  whole,  a  strong  j)osition  for  defense.  At  the  invi- 
tation of  one  of  the  commanders  of  the  Chinese  armv, 
wc  went  to  the  above  mentioned  fort,  where  we  treated 
all  the  wounded  and  sick  soldiers  during  the  rojiiaining 
lime  that  hostilities  were  m  operation.  On  our  arrival, 
we  found  the  place  full  of  troops,  and  were  it  not  for 
the  influence  of  some  leaders  we  would  have  had  no 
room  to  stay  in ;  and  even  then,  wc  shared  one  corner 
of  the  Vang  where  slept  nearly  a  dozen  men,  women 
and  children  who  had  vacated  every  other  room  in 
the  house  for  the  Sining  troops,  while  the  Ilunan  army 
was  stationed  outside  liie  fort  in  tents.  \Ve  were  not 
long  there  before  we  had  many  wounded  to  treat,  and 
in  the  evening  we  mounted  steps  up  to  the  wall  and 
had  a  good  view  of  the  great  fort  of  Topa  and  sur- 
rounding country.  The  suburbs  of  Chen  hai  pu  had 
been  destroyed  by  the  Chinese  themselves,  temples, 
shops  and  houses  having  been  almost  razed  to  the 
ground,  while  every  available  tree  had  been  used  for 
fuel.  The  wall  had  heaps  of  stones  that  were  intended 
for  use  in  times  of  attack,  and  little  mu3-brick  houses 


01 


WJTII  THE  TIJJKTANS 


had  been  biiill  only  a  JVw  iWt  ii|iiirt  alon--  li,,.  whole 
length  of  the  wall,  to  be  ined  as  jiiointioii  duiin-  ilic 
e(»l<l  ni-htv;  of  the  winter,  while  the  appointed  guard  pa- 
trulk'd  ih,.  wall,-,  ihv  citizens  taking  tliis  ia-k  in  turn,-. 

As  we  walked  on  thr  wall  we  met  r.rigaili('r-( ii'iicral 
Teng,  the  clicn-tai  of  Siniug,  an  unassunung  man 
dressed  plainly  and  with  such  a  pleasant  smile  as  he 
gret'ted  us  in  ])as>iiig.  i\,v  n,)  nnr  apiircciali'd  more  than 
he  the  scrvici's  iVmlvii'd  the  ,-iiirtMvr.,  in  ilic  rchcllion 
by  the  mis.-ionaries  in  Sming  and  Kunibum.  lie  re- 
turned to  the  former  j)laee  with  all  his  soldiers  the 
followiim  <!a;  and  ihe  task  of  redueiiig  Topa  fell  to 

(■'(•Ilcral  Wei,  h.lll'  of  whose  troop^  were  ijliarleied  out- 

Hile  (  hen  hai  pu  and  half  at  lleli  tsui  tsi  (.n  I  lie  i  iver 
five  miles  beyond,  so  that  they  held  the  Mohaniiiiedan 
stronghold  l)eiw(vn  two  bodies  of  men,  who  unfortun- 
ately, (.lid  not  am!  would  not  work  in  unison  during  an 
attack;  yet  they  both  diil  gooij  .-ervice.  as  a  result  of 
whieh  thousands  of  Mohammedans  were  killed  ami 
wounded,  and  the  others  became  demoralized.  With 
other  spectators  we  watched  from  the  wall  the  bom- 
b.iiduiciii  VI  Topa,  on  more  than  one  occa-ion.  and  no- 
ticed with  what  precision  and  order  the  fool  sol  lier.-. 
who  had  received  foreign  drill,  marched  onward  iu  .i 
black  ma-,-  to  the  attack,  while  the  cavalry— who  were, 
as  a  rule,  unaccustomed  to  ride  over  such  uneven 
ground  as  the  harvest  lields  about  the  forts— rode  on  in 
full  tilt  against  the  Mohammedans  who  endoavoreil  to 
meet  the  attacking  party  and  turn  it  outside  the  fort. 
Unce  the  cavalry  ])iit  one  parly  of  five  bumlred  relic].-  lo 
flight  back  toward  the  gates  which  had  been  closed  by 


MISSIONS  AM)  MASSAl'WMS  95 

liie  IVciizifil  pcopio  witliiii.  and  only  a  lialf  dozen  of  tliat 
party  Csv  ipcd,  the  remainder  having  been  killed  jii-t 
beside  their  own  gates.  The  casualties  among  ine 
Chinese  cavalry  that  day  were  large,  but  their  victory 
was  a  lellin::  one.  and  had  its  effect  in  bringing  home 
to  the  -M..i;ammedans  the  h    elessncss  of  their  strugirle. 

Another  bombardment  was  planned  in  which  the  in- 
fantry aiul  cannon  att«ck-d  one  side  while  the  cavalry 
engaged  the  other.  repaired  tr,  the  camps  of  the 

Mjldier.s  as  the  wounded  had  i)egiin  to  arrive,  earrie(l  in 
by  their  companions  sometimes  in  a  l)asket  made  from 
a  garment  hung  on  a  spoar,  sometimei  on  a  man's  back, 
but  always  with  tenderness.    They  lay  in  rows  in  the 
open  beside  the  tents,  while,  as  swiftly  as  we  eould,  we 
gave  each  one  in  his  turn  the  attention  he  needed,  the 
patient's  companions  running  after  water  and  whatever 
was  necessary;  and  so  for  hovrs  and  hours,  as  tlie  battle 
raged  outside,  the  men  were  bronght  in  and  laid  down 
to  await  their  treatment.    The  huncir'ds  of  wounded 
that  recei\ed  attention  those  days  necessitated  the  use 
of  so  nia/iy  bandages  and  dressings  that  the  demand  for 
suiial;!'^  cloth  was  rnp])lied  in  n^lng  our  sheets  and 
•'illow  cases  that  had  lieen  provided  for  use  in  a  hospital 
^^  hich  we  had  hoped  to  found  at  Lusar.  The  commander 
had  put  al  our  disp.tsd  a  piihfs!  or  shop,  to  which  the 
wounded  who  eould  walk  ear  '^  fo    '"ossings,  and  ihose 
who  could  not  come  were  treated      theii  terts  m  the 
different  camps.    Our  food  was  brought  tc  us  already 
prepared  from  the  commander's  kitchen,  a  great  help 
indeed,  for  the  immense  iiun.;)er  of  soldiers  made  food 
very  scarce,  and,  besides,  we  had  no  kitchen  in  our 


WITH  TlIK  TIBKTAXS 


"  s-hop."  The  uii'ii  from  Central  China  who  liad  been 
accustomed  to  rice  food  fared  very  poorly  in  Chen  hai 
pu,  for  only  flour  could  be  bought,  and  they  did  not  know 
Ikav  to  prepare  )it'ifii.  l)ut  put  it  in  large  lamps  instead 
of  thin  strijts  into  the  water.  an(1  is  a  result  ate  indiges- 
tible pieces  of  lough  haif-eooked  dough.  Tliis  lack  of 
proper  food,  the  cold  to  which  they  were  unaccustomed 
and  for  which  they  were  ina<lc([uate!y  clad,  the 
deep  cellars  they  dug  under  their  tents  to  provide  more 
room  for  the  thirteen  men  (juartered  in  each  tent,  where 
their  cooking  also  hac  to  be  done,  caused  an  outbreak 
of  disease  among  the  trooi).-,  so  that  we  had  in  all  a  thou- 
sand or  more  patients,  \lany  of  the  wounded  men  re- 
ceived rice,  vermieelli  and  eggs  from  us,  or  they  would 
certainly  have  succumbed  to  their  wounds.  Also,  we 
used  our  influence  with  the  commanders,  inducing  them 
to  provide  From  their  personal  stores  some  suitable 
food  for  their  men. 

The  practice  made  by  the  gunners  of  these  troops  was 
bad;  hence  the  cannon  were  of  very  little  use,  and  the 
land  torpedoes  that  had  been  placed  were  of  no  avail, 
for  the  Mohammedans  did  not  pass  over  the  spot  where 
they  had  been  buried.  One  had  in  the  night  been  put 
just  outside  one  of  the  gates  of  the  rebel  fort,  where  it 
was  discovered  very  early  the  following  maiming  Ijy  a 
little  group  of  Mohammedans  who  cut  the  wire  attached 
to  it,  carried  it  into  the  for:  and  instead  of  knocking 
it  open,  as  a  Chinaman  would  have  done,  buried  it 
where  it  could  do  no  harm;  but  the  torpedoes  filled 
them  with  fear  and  super-tit  ion.  for  soon  afterwards 
they  proli'ered  submis.-ion,  which  was  accepted  on  con- 


MlJ5,SlU.\.S  AND  .MA.SSACKE.S  97 


•  htion  tliat  their  leaders  and  all  their  arinf  should  be 
broii^riit  to  Chen  liai  pu.  This  was  done  and  bodies  of 
rebels  guarded  by  troujis  marehed  past  our  door,  with 
large  bundles  of  guns  and  spears  over  their  sliouldors, 
and  when  Uioy  had  deposited  them  at  the  yamen  wore 
allowed  to  return  to  their  Iioiiu^..  the  leaders  alone  hav- 
ing been  ret-ined.  These  latter,  strijjped  to  tlie  wai.-I. 
were  marehed  past  our  door  two  by  two  to  tlie  outside 
of  the  -ity  gate,  and  beheaded,  <•.•  h  by  one  stroke  of 
a  soldier's  knife,  '{'he  Ixxlies  \\\  .e  buried  and  the  lie.id- 
carried  in  baskets  baek  to  the  //■nurn,  one  oeeasion;iMv 
rolling  out  into  the  dust  in  llie  road.  .Such  scenes 
have  a  demoralizing  effect  on  a  community,  and  in 
tliis  generation  the  evil  ell'eets  of  that  rebellion  with  its 
cruelly  and  ])l<)od>hed,  will  have  worn  away  neither 
from  the  Mohammedans  nor  Chinese. 

^ot  .ong  afterwards  we  were  provided  with  a  "  shop  " 
in  Topa  where  were  quartered  certain  detachments  of 
imperial  troops  whicli  had  all  left  Chen  hai  pu,  and 
after  a  little  hesitation  I  went  with  my  husbam  and  a 
large  escort  of  picked  men  well  mounted  into  the  rebel 
town.  We  found  that  tlie  suburl)s  had  been  almost  de- 
stroyed in  the  bon.bardnient  by  cannon,  also  that  the 
Chinese  temples  having  been  used  by  the  Mohammedans 
as  dwellings,  were  scarcely  injured.  There  were  two 
walls  around  Topa,  an  exterior  and  an  interior  one,  the 
latter  surrounding  a  closely  built  fort,  separated  from 
the  other  by  many  buildings.  Within  the  outer 
wall  had  been  dug  deep  trenches  for  furtlicr  defence, 
and  it  was  plain  that  had  the  troops  succeeded  in  forc- 
ing an  entrance  into  the  outer  fort,  thousands  would 


98 


w  I 'I'll  Tin;  rir.KTANs 


have  falli'ii,  fnr  tlie  ;\I(ihinniii('(!an>  wore  well  armed 
with  gull^.  .swords  and  spears,  even  fureign  guns  be- 
ing p().-se»ed  in  large  numbers.  The  Mohammedan 
woman  who  owned  the  shop  wc  wpre  in,  told  me  that 
even  before  t!u>  final  boniliardnient.  many  of  the  young 
^fohammcdan  men  had  been  killed,  and  she  said  that 
most  of  thi  in  were  pressed  into  the  fray  uv  oircum- 
stanecs  and  the  commands  of  their  leader?.  She  and 
her  liu>iian(l.  i.  shoe-maker  by  trade,  had  live(l  In  the 
subnrl)s  of  riicn  hai  jni.  and  having  liem  warned  liy  the 
Chinese  one  day,  had  gone  to  Topa  to  sloop,  not  taking 
anything  with  them  except  the  clothing  they  wore  and 
a  little  money.  That  very  night  the  fhinese  had  at- 
laeked  the  suburb,  stolen  what  tlioy  eouM  and  (h'stroyed 
every  house  and  tenii)ic.  They  were  then  foreed  to  re- 
main in  Topa,  hut  her  husband  kept  out  of  sight  as 
much  as  possible,  refusing  to  take  any  part  in  the  fight- 
ing, until  one  morning  he  fou  id  a  small  piece  of  pajtor 
at  his  door  with  an  order  from  the  leader  or  alion  for 
him  to  join  a  sortie  in  the  valley  toward  Sining.  Hav- 
ing no  horse.  i)Ul  not  daring  to  disobey,  for  that  would 
mean  death,  her  husband  took  a  .sjiear  and  joined  tlie 
party  of  two  hundred,  only  eighteen  of  whom  returned 
alive,  he  not  being  of  the  number. 

The  war  Avas  now  practically  over.  .V  largo  jiropor- 
tion  of  the  fighting  men  of  Tona  hail  been  killed,  some 
had  submitted,  while  fnjly  •.'0,000  fled  toward  Turkes- 
tan, spreading  consternation  among  the  nomads  of  the 
Jujktfciior,  as  they  passed  through  their  country,  plun- 
dering and  devastating  without  merey.  Many  of  them 
perished  of  cold  and  starvation  on  the  desolate  plains. 


MISSIOXS  AND  MASSACRES  99 


(ifiioral  Wi'i  and  lii-  troiip-:  rftunicd  to  Sining,  while 
General  Teiig,  a  militarv  ollieer  of  still  higher  rank, 
took  his  place,  and,  saying  that  his  predecessor  had  no 
anthority  to  acc('])t  submission  on  the  conditions  lie  had 
iikkU'.  he  demanded  one  thini-aiid  more  heads  of  lead- 
ers. These  ni'Te  reUutanil^;  and  \el  ?peedily  eauglil  by 
their  companions,  taken  down  to  Sining  and  beheaded. 
The  remaining  population  of  Topa  were  robbed  by  the 
soldiers  of  ahnost  everything  of  value  they  ])o-sessed, 
and  were  then  sent  to  the  small  northern  valley  where 
they  were  permitted  to  reside,  their  lands  having  been 
conflseattd.  Thus  the  Government  of  China  had  dis- 
jihiyed,  tlirougli  the  coiuinandrrs  of  its  army,  sueh 
t  reachery  and  lack  of  honor  as  might  easily  lead  to 
fresh  trouble,  and  yet  the  Mohammedans  around  Sining 
have  received  such  a  crushing  defeat  as  to  render  them 
unalde  to  rebel,  unle-s  as  n  revenge  for  the  atrocities 
in  the  'Tuiuj  Kuan,  those  of  Iloeheo  should  sweep  all 
Ijcfore  them,  capture  Sining,  which  would  make  an  ad- 
mirable stronghold,  and  gain  possession  of  the  whole 
uesieiii  poriion  of  Kansu.  Tankar  has  no  more  ^[o- 
haniniedans,  tlie  people  having  at  the  command  of  the 
olliciai,  fallen  np(jn  the  few  hundred  residing  there, 
slaughtering  them  all.  The  walls  of  Topa  have  been 
almost  leveled,  the  iieauliful  mosque  has  been  destroyed, 
and  the  green  tiles  and  bricks  coniiiosing  it  have  been 
taken  to  Sining  at  ilie  order  of  the  fu-lai  to  be  used 
probably  for  building  temples  for  the  Chinese.  The 
only  ^lolia.nmedans  to  be  seen  for  some  time  afterwards 
in  the  Todij  Kmui  were  l)oggnrs,  ami  those  who  had 
come  to  sell  small  wares,  and  I  understand  that  the 


100 


WITH  THK  TIBKTAXH 


Silling  iuitlioiitics  arc  imt  again  to  iicrni.i  tlicm  to  ro 
side  (.'vun  in  a  -iiliiirl),  though  if  tiicy  ii'liHTc  lo  tiii'ir  pur- 
pose, trade  will  not  he  hy  any  means  >o  brisk. 

All  the  t!iiin»-  I'roiii  C'l'iilial  I'liiiia  were  lii.-handcd  in 
WolfTii  Kaii-u  anil  a-  iiiai:y  nf  I'lcui  had  iiu  incan-  ol' 
livelihood,  ihi'v  hcLaiiie  highu a_\  men,  being  a>  uiiu  li 
a  terror  to  the  timid  t'liinese  as  had  been  the  .Moham- 
medans, for  llu'V  atlarkcd  ainl  killeil  without  in.Tcy. 

As  a  total  nf  liKi.otii)  wciv  r-iiinai('d  to  \\,\\v  li'Vii 
slain  during  the  war,  there  were  in  niaiu  ili>lri(  ls  im 
farmers  left  to  cultivate  the  land,  and  in  some  places 
the  iKiople  had  great  dilliculty  in  gct'.mg  t  nough  soeil 
to  sow  and  iniplenients  to  work  with,  though  ilic  olli- 
cial.-^  had  granted  eonsideraljie  relief  for  this  purpo-''. 
When  the  harvest  had  Iwen  sown,  it  was  in  large  pin 
destroyed  l)y  rats,  whiih,  attraeteil  probably  by  so  manv 
bodies  that  had  been  given  improper  imrial.  spread  liki' 
another  army  over  the  liekls.  leaving  waste  and  sorrow- 
ing hearts  behind  it.  For  these  various  reasons,  there 
was,  when  even  two  summers  had  intervened  after  the 
war,  great  want  among  the  lalioring  classes,  and  years 
will  elai»se  before  even  in  a  flight  degree  the  eHVcts 
of  the  rebellion  will  wear  away. 

When  peaee  had  been  declared  Mr.  Rijnhart.  to  the 
(on-tcrniition  of  both  TibetaiH  and  Chine-e.  wciit  to 
the  Moliammedau  (juarters  i)<  '[\)]ni  to  treat  the  Moham- 
medan wounded.  It  had  been  understood  that  because 
we  had  helped  the  Chinese  and  Tibetan  soldiers,  there- 
fore we  shared  their  hatn>d  of  their  enemies  and  could 
not  possibly  have  a  kind  tlnuight  for  them.  When  tliev 
saw  that  the  mis>ionaiy  v,a-  ju>t  as  kind  and  tender  to 


MISSIOXS  A XI)  MASSAClIKr?  KH 


llic  Muliaiiiiiicilaiis  ii~  lij  tliciii.H'Ivcs,  tl;oy  were  utterly 
ii  mazed.  Tlio  law  of  (.'hri.stian  kindness  impelling  love 
and  mercy  even  for  onc'f  enemies  was  vividly  broaglil 
to  tlu  ir  attention,  and  sonn',  a-  tlioy  pondered  the  les- 
son, tliou;,'lit  aj^ain  of  the  inlorcd  Ribic  piiture  on  the 
wall  of  our  house  in  Lusar — the  picture  of  the  Good 
Samaritan.  There  they  had  learned  the  lesson  in  story 
— the  missionary  had  translated  it  into  action. 


CHAPTER  VI 


Tin:  I.VMAsKliV  OF  KUMni'M 

Tibetan  T,:iiii:i>crit-- — Lc^'i'inl  nf  'r-oii;,^  K'nlm — Origin 
(if  Kiuiibiiiii  —  'I'iu'  (iultl  Tiled  iiini  .Saiicil 

Trw — Xotturnul  Devotions  and  Worsliip  of  the  But- 
ter GoJ. 

The  lamaseries  in  Central  Asia  are,  like  the  oathe- 
Orals  ill  Kiir(>|K',  the  iinwt  imposing  inonunn  nts  of  ro-, 
ligious  life;  lull  while  tlii'  ^|lil■(--  aiui  iliiiiie<  (if  the  Killer 
t()\rcr  nhovt'  the  teeniiiig  city  ami  ln«>k  tlowii  upon  all 
the  refinonionts  and  activities  of  civilization,  these  ntde 
panctiiarios  of  r>ml(lhi.-m  are  freciuently  situated  in 

the  IJKi-!  x'l  hl.led  aM<l  Miiiietillle-  e\  ■!!  ill  the  liin-|  in- 
aoccs>iijle  spots  on  llu-  niggcii  'i'iiielaii  pialeaii.  >ome 
of  them  are  miles  away  from  any  village  or  encamp- 
ment, and  tli()n;;h  they  canimt  hoa.-t  the  exciiii^ite  ar- 
tistic flni>li  ami  iii;i<~ive  ^pler.dur  uf  ( 'i)](i;.iie.  Slra-<- 
inirg  ur  .San  .Marco,  yet  they  p,,-  a  slunly  pictiir- 
<'>quoness  all  their  own.  They  a-o  built  sometimes  in 
a  sheltered  ravine,  luit  more  usually  on  the  mountain 
<ido,  often  perched  hii:!i  upon  ~,.'ue  jutting  mass  of 
rock,  and  ri'aehed  after  ialiorin'.iy  c'.iniliiiig  by  means 
of  zig-zag  stairways  hewn  out  of  the  stone.  The  archi- 
tecture is  fantastic  and  irregular,  consisting  of  a  ntim- 

3  •)•.• 


TIIK  LAMASKUY  OF  KI'MRl'M  103 

'icr  of  square  and  oblong  luiililiii;.'-  ri-inp  tier  aliovo  tier 
against  tho  hillside  or  thrown  to^^dhir  wuIkjui  any 
apparent  plan,  and  oruuinjnitt'tl  by  rude  battlcinents, 
hridgc-  .iiid  (  \li  riiir  -lairways,  the  whole  (  rowiu'd  by 
1  11  ubniiit  llal-niufrd  lower,  or  by  (it'verul  small  turrets 
varying  in  >liai)e. 

ThcHO  lamaseric>>,  or  gomhas,  are  the  abodes  of  the 
TiiiOtaii  pne-ilioiid  uhirh  (•oll^titute^,  ii  i>  estiniatei' 
aliout  one-sevrnili  nl'  ilie  eiitjre  |in]ni!ation  of  Tik-t.  i 
I  lie  (jiimbnH  at  Llia-a  tin  re  are  >aid  tn  lu"  no  li 
l.'.OOO  lamas,  while  in  the  province  of  Aindo  .  ,it\ 
;ii  e(.i(liii;r  to  inrormution  gathered  Ity  \V.  \\ .  Rock, .ill. 
the  iiuiiilter  of  lamas  is  somewhere  lietweeii  '.'."ijioo  aii<l 
.'{(»,(HM),  refiding  in  t went \-t'oiir  laina.-eries.  each  aeeoiii- 
modating  from  200  to  5,000.  Two-tliirds  of  thofe  lamas 
are  Koko-nor  Tiltetaiis,  the  reniainiiii.r  third  Koko-nor 
and  'i's'aidam  Muni^nls,  ila-lerii  .Monirul-  and  'rilieiaiis. 

The  lamasery  of  Kiimhum.  in  whieli  we  re-.ded  du- 
ring the  reb  llion,  and  with  which,  on  account  of  our 
friendship  wit'-  the  ahhot.  we  had  sui  h  rare  opjtortuni- 
ties  to  lieeome  aeiiiiainted,  i>,  a>  already  intimated, 
one  of  till' greatest  and  most  faino'is  in  all  ('eiitral  Asia. 
More  than  a  half  century  a^io,  M.  Hue  visited  it  and 
doscril)ed  its  site  as  ••  one  of  enchanting  beauty.''  It 
reposes  in  a  fertile  valley,  through  which  -I  ream 
llov.-s,  dividing  it  into  two  i)arts.  On  either  si  of  the 
stream  and  up  the  opposite  hillsides  repose  the  white 
dwelling.^  of  the  lamas,  rising  terrace  above  terrace  in 
ampliitlieatrical  order.  The  more  i>reteiit ions  residence 
of  the  kaiipo  situated  upon  the  highest  rov  '  ■ 

iiillside,  is  conspicuous  hy  its  bright  red  colo    1  all- 


104 


WITH  THi:  TIBETANS 


The  ordinary  laina,-'  tlwcllin<r<  arc  kept  spollossly  white, 
a  coat  nt"  liiiK'-wa-h  ticiiiL'  p(  rindically  applied  in  a  very 
novel  liul  not  tlio  1l'?5  oH'oLtive  manner,  for  in^^lead  oi' 
putting  it  on  with  a  brus^h,  the  himas  stand  high  up  on 
a  ladder  or  on  the  roof  and  empty  largo  pitehcrfuls  of 
llie  liquid  on  to  tln'  walls,  letting  it  run  down  to  the 
ground,  doing  its  work  as  it  goes.  On  the  western  side 
of  the  stream  are  the  temples,  well-built  struetnres 
of  burnt  briek  with  gaudily  ]iainted  walls  surrounded 
by  col'  iinades,  having  roofs  of  slanting  tiles,  tlie  ends 
of  which,  projecting  over  the  walls,  arc  tinged  with 
bright  blue  or  green.  There  is  one  temple  which  stands 
out  in  bold  and  dr.zzling  relief  against  all  others.  It 
is  the  gold-roiifcd  tcnipli'  of  Txiiig  K"aba,  which  the 
lamas  call  Jo  K'ang,  or  "  Home  of  tli(>  Buddha."  This 
temple  is  the  center  of  interest  in  Kumbum  and  is  the 
crowning  pride  of  all  the  people  of  Amdo,  who  hold  it 
to  be  particidarly  sacred.  It  is  about  fifty  feet  scpuire; 
its  walls  are  of  sculptured  wood  and  present  a  mosaic 
of  many  tints  which  led  Hue  to  speak  of  them  as 
"  sparkling  with  a  thousand  brilliant  colors ; "  it  has 
two  roofs,  a  lower  one  and  an  upper  oiie.  iTie  latter  rest- 
ing on  I  niw  of  short  red  lacipiered  pillars;  the  lower 
roof  is  much  wider  than  the  top  (me,  projecting  consid- 
erably beyond  +he  main  wall  after  the  usual  Chinese 
style.  The  tiles  of  both  roofs  are  covered  with  heavy 
gold  plate,  concerning  the  jireci^e  thickness  of  which 
there  seems  to  bo  a  ditrerence  of  opinion.  Some  of  the 
lamas  told  us  it  was  an  cighiii  of  an  inch  in  thickness, 
others  said  half  an  inch. 

Tsong  KJaba,  whose  name  the  gold-tiled  temple  com- 


Tin:  LAMASKIiY  OF  KUMBIWI 


monioratos,  was  the  LuiIkt  of  Tibetiin  r>ii<]illii,-in  ami 
ti<)uris!i('<l  in  ilw  rdiii'tiM'iitli  ccnturv.  'I'lic  laniascrv 
'•lir.iiiicli>  arc  rii'li  in  u'conl,-.  ijaj_f  mylliical  and  1^1' 
liislorical,  of  the  caroor  of  tliis  woiidorful  man,  tho 
lamasery  itself  ilcriv  ini:  its  name  from  an  ineidenl  in 
('"nnectiun  witli  his  birth.  The  word  "  Kuinltiim ''  is 
a  eomljination  of  two  Tibitaii  words  meaning  "ten 
thousand  images"  "'';]_J'2LlJiL'''-  .■ilTli^^^  ^"  "  mnrv^il- 
ous  tree,  a  deseeudaut  of  whieli  .-lil.l. exists  at  the  laina- 
serv.  Tlie  lamas  gi'awly  relate  the  iiLoxy'-oX .  tliu- woji- 
derful  ehild,  Ikav  he  was  boru  with  u  wjiite  hcaf(J^|ojij;;  _ 
lloM  ing  locks,  wise  countenance,  fully  developed  mental 
powers  and  ready  gpecch.  At  the  age  of  tlirce  y«ar*l«i-- 
resohi'd  to  reiiouuce  the  world  and  to  devote  himself 
to  the  contemplation  of  the  Buddha'i  doclriuy.  His 
jnother,  sympathizing  with  the  holy  ambition  of  her 
son,  cut  oft  his  beautiful  hair  and  threw  it  inta  -tbe 
ciiurtyard,  when  lo.  immediately  there  sprang  up  from 
]t  a  tree,  on  every  leaf  of  which  was  visible  an  image 
of  the  "  Lord  Buddha."'  The  young  student  sat  at  the 
feet  of  the  most  illustrious  lamas  of  his  day,  resided 
some  time  at  T-ha>a.  and  eventnally  led  a  reform  move- 
ment which  r('>ultt  (l  in  the  founding  of  a  nt  w  sci  t,  that 
of  the  (Iclit,  or  ••  Yellow  Caps"  as  distinguished  from 
the  "  Red  Caps  "  or  those  of  the  conservative  school. 
T-oi)g  K'aba  introduced  radical  changes  in  the  Budd- 
l:ist  liturgy,  and  on  tln'  basis  of  the  new  worsliij).  found- 
ed the  great  lamasery  of  Kaldan  which  still  flourishes 
about  nine  miles  from  Lhasa,  and  is  said  to  contain 
^-jnu)  lamas.  Xot  only  by  the  imim  use  number  of 
atlherents  that  were  won  to  his  views  during  his  life- 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


time,  l.ut  al.-o  l)_v  the  liiorary  prnduction.-  lie  loi't  behind 
liiiji,  T.suiig  K'abaV  ir.llueiice  ha.-  \jvvn  great  duriug  the 
hist  five  centuries  of  Tibetan  history.  The  most  import- 
ant of  lii-  wmiv-  ar<'  an  (.diti'in  dl'  tlie  sayings  of  Gau- 
tama UncMba  ami  a  rcIi;.:ii)-iiliiio,-n{ihii  al  treatise  on 
"  Tlie  rrogre.-.-ive  I'atii  to  I'erfeeliun."  Tlie  early  fol- 
lowers of  Tsong  K'aba  were  very  zealous  in  propagating 
the  Gclupa  doetrines  and  as  a  result  of  their  missionary 
labors,  fraternities  of  the  yellew  sect  wito  c-tablished 
in  all  parts  of  Tibet  and  in  Mongolia.  Even  the  Tibetan 
king  was  among  the  converts.  Tsong  K'aba  died  in 
1419  and  his  body,  the  lamas  assert,  is  still  preserved 
in  the  moiia.-ti'ry  of  Kaliiaii  where  it  nii.y  Ije  seen  in  all 
its  frcsbnt'ss,  b\  a  ])frpciual  miracle  poised  in  the  air 
a  few  feet  above  the  ground,  and  to  those  who  are  far 
advanced  on  the  way  to  buddhahood,  the  great  man 
still  speaks  words  of  wisdom  and  encouragement,  al- 
though none  of  the  common  herd  can  hear  his  voice  or 
see  his  lips  move  I 

Xo  more  interesting  question  offers  itself  to  Christ- 
ian ^(■bolarsllil)  than  that  concerning  the  remarkalde 
I'c  cmlilanci's  between  tlie  ritual  of  1  be  (Jelujia  sect  and 
liuit  >till  i'.i  vo;;iie  in  tbe  Roman  Catli  'lie  aiid  Anglican 
branches  of  Christendom.  M.  Hue,  himself  a  Roman 
(^atholic,  who  visited  several  (ielupa  lamaseries,  says: 

■*  Uptm  tlu'  mo-t  >u]icrficial  examination  of  the  re- 
forii'S  and  innovations  introduced  by  Tsong  K'aba  into 
lib.  lamanesque  worship,  one  must  be  stru.-k  with  their 
affmlty  to  Catholicism.  The  cross,  the  -.niter,  the  del- 
matica,  the  cope,  wliich  the  grand  latu\s  wear  on  their 
journeys  or  when  tlu'y  arc  performing  some  ceremony 


TlIK  I.AMASEUY  OF  KI  MRI  M  107 


(lilt  of  the  ti'inple,  the  service  with  double  choir?,  the 
l)^almul!y,  llie  e.\<)rei.-m#,  the  ceiiser,  suspended  from 
live  chains,  and  which  you  can  open  or  close  at  pleasure, 
the  heucilietioiK  <x\\vn  by  tlie  iamas  by  extending  tlu 
i  ;-!it  liiiinl  over  I  lie  liead.-  of  the  faithful,  the  ehapl''; 
e(elesia>tieal  celibacy,  spiritual  retirement,  the  \vor.-h:[i 
of  the  sai  ■  tlie  fasts,  the  processions,  the  litanies,  th" 
lioly  water,  all  these  are  analogies  between  the  Budd- 
hists ami  i  iirselvc-.""* 

^\']lat  is  the  origin  of  these  striking  analogies?  The 
Tibetan  lamas  themselves  have  never  been  great  travel- 
ers, and  the  supposition  that  'iVong  K'alia  \i.~iteil  a 
Christian  country  at  that  (>arl\  is  hi;:hly  iniproli- 

able.  Hue  conjectures  tlial  'I'son,::  Iv'aba  met  some  of 
the  Komau  Catholic  missionaries  viho  were  operating' 
in  China  under  Jean  de  ilonteorvin,  Archbishop  of 
l'r!:i!i.  a-  carlv  as  lh''  fourteenth  ceiiturv.  and  wlin 
had  even  trained  a  clioir  (d'  ilongols  to  chant  psalms, 
and  taught  tluni  Kotnan  Catholic  ceremonies.  Anent 
this  qu  -"  m  the  Tibetan  legends  speak  of  a  strange 
lama  who  came  to  the  land  of  Anido  from  the  far 
western  regions  and  re-ided  in  T>ong  K'alia's  tent,  a 
man  of  wondrous  leariiing  and  piety,  having  a  big  nose 
and  bright  flashing  eyes.  Tsong  K'aba,  it  is  said,  sat 
at  the  feet  of  the  great  slranirer  and  received  instrue- 
lion  in  all  the  dnclrine^  of  the  we.-t,  until  \hf  teacher 
fell  into  a  deep  sleep  from  which  he  never  wakened. 
Whence  this  legend  of  the  stranger  from  the  west? 
It  is  both  jiossible  and  probable  that  Ann'o  wa<  visited 
by  some  of  the  early  missionaries  to  Asia,  perhaps  by 

♦Travels  !n  Tartary,  Thibet  and  China,  by  M.  Hue,  Vol.  11,  pp.  45-46. 


WITH  Tlir:  Tir.KTAXS 


the  N\'.-toriaii>  hIk.  luvl  nii^-iuiis  in  Wc^iorn  China  as 
early  as  the  sovniil!  (riitmy.  Ayaiu,  ii  i<no\vn  that 
ill  VVio  a  Unman  Catliolic  inis>i()nary  named  Friar 
'"■"1''  ^'iiiiirv  fiuni  Xortli western  China 
'"'ii'i.  ^1  '!  iv-iil-il  ^niui'  [\mv  in 
l.lia.si;  that  Fat  he  is  (irul.cr  and  Dnrvillc  in  Kliil. 
Dosidcri  and  Frevre  in  KH;  niadi-  missionary  t.uirs.  the 
hitter  rosidinsr  in  IJi.isi  fur  thirteen  years;  that  in 
i;i!i  the  Capuiliin  friar.  Fr.inci-ro  d,.]!;)  IVnna,  with 
twelve  eu-w(.rkcrs  of  the  same  order,  hepin  a  mis.-ion  in 
Lhasa  whicli  flourished  i        Kdo.  ean  tell  to 

wiiat  extent  the  residenee  and  teaehinp  of  these  mis- 
sionaries in  TilK't  i.  re:-].oii~ih!,.  r,,r  tl.c  res^'inhlances 
111  ritual  Ijc'twecn  Ifomani^m  and  'i'ihctan  Bmldli i-ni  ? 
Legend  has  in  all  proljahility  attriiinled  to  Tson-  K"al>a 
more  than  Ids  due  with  respect  to  Die  introdiiHion  of 
ChriMiim  ror;i-.  That  ih.y  have  hcen  graduallv  in- 
eorporate.l  mtf.  the  'i"ih-laii  wor.-hip  a>  a  net  re.-nli  of 
all  the  early  eontaet  with  we>tcniers  is  a  reasonahle 
view.  We  found  the  lepjend  of  "the  white  lama  from 
;h('  we>t  ■■  (piit<'  fresh  in  th(^  peonicV-  minds.  Mina 
Fiiyeh  told  ns  that  TM)ng  Kaha  had  a  large  nose  and 
looked  like  a  Europciin. 

The  im})ortanee  and  saeredness  of  Kundjum.  in  the 
eyes  of  r.uddliiM-.  ran  llien  1,,.  ,.;i-ily  under>tood  when 
it  is  remenihered  that  the  lamasery  i.-  so  intimatelv 
connected  with  sueh  a  eomnianding  per.-onage  as  the 
great  Buddhist  reformer,  for  although  lie"  did  not 
actually  found  llie  lamasery,  yet  to  him  alone  it  owes 
its  origin.  I'ilgrim>  llncKcd  to  wor-hip  at  the  foot  of 
the  mountain  where  he  wa^  horn;  -oon  lUiddlii^t  priests 


THK  LAMASKRY  OF  KI'MBI'M  109 


fruiii  liiuor  Tibet,  C'liina,  Mongolia,  and  .Mancluiria, 
came  to  build  their  cells  there ;  the  emperors  of  China 
extended  to  it  their  protection,  and  thus  it  has  grown 

to  its  present  sintn?. 

Throujih  Miiia  Fuvrh's  intluenci'  \\v  had  many  oppor- 
tunities to  visit  the  "  Gf)lden  Tiled  Temple."  Around 
its  outer  court  are  small  shrines  with  a  row  of  prayer- 
wheels,  aliout  three  feet  apart.  These  are  small 
cylinders  containing  rolls  of  printed  prayers.  To  turn 
these  prayor-whcels  is,  according  to  the  Buddliist  idea, 
to  aecuniulati'  merit,  and  they  arc  hardly  ever  still,  for 
every  one  who  passes  liy  give<  tluMU  a  spin.  In  the 
wooden  planks  which  form  the  threshold  of  the  shrine 
arc  visible  abrasions  about  three  or  four  inches  deep, 
made  by  the  hands  and  forelieads  of  pilgrims  prostrat- 
i!ig  themselves  before  tlH>  great  altar  and  imagt  inside. 
Even  when  a2)proaching  the  temple  afar-oU'  wor.-liippers 
may  be  seen  kolowimj  to  the  very  dust  at  every  third 
step,  gathering  zeal  and  momentum,  as  it  were,  for  the 
final  prostratiiin  on  the  hard  planks.  By  the  thou- 
sands of  Buddhist  devotees  who  resort  thitluT  overv 
year  and  place  their  hands  ami  foreheads  m  the  .same 
spots  as  the  thousands  who  have  preceded  them,  these 
planks  are  looked  npon  as  (juite  as  sacred  as  are  the 
marble  steps  lea<!ing  to  St.  rcter".-.  Iiy  tlu^  mullitude.- 
of  Konian  Catholic  pilgrims  who  llock  annually  to  the 
Eternal  City. 

It  is  only  once  a  year,  on  the  first  day  of  the  third 
moon,  that  women  are  permitted  to  enter  tjic  temple, 
and  when  that  auspicious  day  came  1  was  privileged, 
through  the  influence  of  :Mina  Fuych,  to  go  in  with  the 


no 


AVITII  TIIK  TinKTAXS 


Mongol  ami  Tibetan  wd  ^eii,  altlioiifrli  it  \va>  known 
that  I  would  not  take  part  in  their  iclulat;\,,.  WMi-hip. 
The  first  thing  that  greeted  us  on  entering  was  a  huge 
image  of  T>nn<r  K'uba  in  sitting  posture  upon  a  deco- 
rated throne.  The  throne  is  about  ten  feet  lii.irli.  ami  the 
image  wrought,  the  lamafi  told  us,  in  solid  gold,  is 
perhaps  six  feet  high.  If  the  image  is  of  gold  it  must 
nf  fabulous  worth,  for  it  is  alto^rdlicr  of  massive 
proportions,  and  indeed,  if  it  is  oidy  plated,  as  we 
sometimes  supposed,  it  would  still  be  one  of  tiie  most 
valuable  possessions  of  the  lamasery,  from  a  material 
standpoint  as  well  as  from  a  religious  one.  Immedi- 
ately in  front  of  tlie  image  was  an  immense  oblong' 
altar  literally  covered  with  holy  water  vases,  and  liut- 
ter  lamps  large  and  small.  Of  the  butter  lamps  there 
must  have  been  sevrral  hundred  all  "-hted  for  this 
>peiaal  occa-inn.    Standing  before  t  \r  and  amid 

the  blazing  light  of  the  lamps,  I  It  .u  up  into  the 
face  of  one  of  the  greatest  idols  of  Tibetan  Buddhi.sm, 
while  all  around  me  were  bowed  the  worshippers,  mut- 
tering prayers  and  pouring  out  before  it  the  lioniage  of 
tiieir  hearts.  Tlie  id(l  truly  had  never  been  m(n-e 
radiant  than  on  that  day,  when  the  sheen  of  nniny 
sacred  flames  ])eat  upon  and  caused  the  golden  rays 
to  flash  out  like  tlie  b(>ams  of  tlie  sun.  But  as  1  ]ooke(l 
1  found  no  spark  of  intelligence  darting  from  the 
luipilless  eyes;  there  wa.„  no  change  of  expression  on 
the  placid  countenance  to  indicate  that  the  ears  had 
l)een  touched  by  the  heart-cries  of  the  prostrate  wor- 
shipjiers;  no  word  of  blessing  fell  from  those  silent 
lips,  immobile  and  set  as  on  the  day  when  they  received 


THE  LAMASKKY  OF  KUMBLM 


111 


the  lii.-t  lolu  li  of  lilt'  iuii>t"s  Iiand.  How  appropriate 
flic  word.-  of  t!ii>  j)()ft  of  J!^rilel: 

*'  The  idols  of  the  nations  are  silver  and  gold, 
'I  111'  Work  of  men's  hands. 
They  havo  mouths,  but  they  spoak  not; 
Kyes  have  they,  but  they  see  not; 
They  have  cars,  but  tlioy  b<  ar  not, 
Noitbcr  is  there  any  breath  in  their  mouths. 
They  that  make  them  shall  be  like  unto  them; 
Yea,  every  one  that  trusteth  in  them."  (1) 

Yet  tliore  something  patlictic  in  this  s])e(tarl.>  of 
htMlhen  worshij),  and  it  is  nut,  in  niy  opinion,  the  i)ait 
of  the  Christian  missionary  to  assume  an  air  of  ridicule 
and  continipt  lor  the  religious  i(lca.>  and  practices  of 
pcn[ilc<  hv->  enligl.lened  than  his  own;  for  in  everv 
religious  service,  however  ah.-urd  or  degraded  from  tlie 
Christian  view-point,  there  is  some  feeble  acknowledg- 
nicnt  and  groping  af  t(  r  ilie  one  great  God  to  whom  all 
'men  and  nations  are  alike  d^ar;  even  in  the  worshi]) 
of  idols  there  are  to  him  who  has  the  willing  ciir  and 
the  understanding  heart  "painful  cries  of  the  soul, 
torn  from  its  center  and  separated  from  its  object."  (2) 
The  work  of  Christian  missions  is  hindered  bv  antagon- 
izing the  non-Christian  peoples  through  dogmatic  as- 
sertion of  doctrines  anj  the  failure  of  the  Christian 
missienary  to  recognize  and  rejoice  in  the  great  underly- 
ing truths  of  all  religions.  Only  as  he  appreciates  the 
light,  however  dim.  that  gleams  amid  the  darkness 
and  superstition  of  the  heathen  systems,  can  he  hope  to 
turn  men's  eyes  to  Him  who  is  the  Sun  of  Righteous- 
ness and  the  Light  of  the  World. 

I  Psalm  cxxxv.     z  Vinet. 


112 


WITH  thp:  tirktaxs 


Besides  tho  iiiiii;,'!'  ami  altar,  tlic  yulil-liltMl  ((■mpk' 
contains  many  iiitcMcslinfj  rtliif,  chief  among  them  be- 
ing the  stone  on  which  T»ong  K'aba  was  born.  The 
walls  arc  eovorcil  with  [>!i(l<llii-t  Kdnk-.  ami  k-linlns, 
some  (if  them  fifty  fci  t  liiii<:,  haii^^  fnun  the  foiling'. 
Closely  connected  with  the  .siiu  tiiary  are  the  reailiiig 
hallf,"  one  of  them  large  enough  to  accommodate 
S.-'iOO  priests  at  one  time    rn'forc  cnti  'iii^'  tli"  reading- 
room  each  prie-^t  is  ol)li;,'(d  to  reiiiovr  liis  slioi-s.  Somo- 
tiines  there  is  a  pile  of  shoes  at  the  entrance  coiniiris- 
ing  2,000  pairs  or  more,  thrown  promiscuously  to- 
gether, and  ;  et  tlic  owners  scc'n  to  have  no  difliculty  in 
finding  each  liis  own  pair.    Above  the  rca<!iii;r-roonis 
is  the  museum,  containing  a  collection  of  sacred  relics, 
musical  instruments  (principally  big  horns  and  conch 
shells),  gold  an<l  silver  vases,  lamps  and  work<  of  art. 
The  most  prized  anion;.'  the  n  lif^s  is  a  picture  of  Tson;; 
K'aba  which  the  .siiiit  himself  is  said  to  have  sketched 
in  his  own  blood.    This  was  done  in  the  city  of 
Lhasa  when  the  saint  w,h  there  pursuinu'  hi-  studies. 
His  mother  in  .^mdo.  desirinj:  to  know  how  he  was 
faring,  he  drew  the  sketch  of  himself  and  sent  it  to  her, 
instead  of  writing  a  letter,  and  as  soon  as  she  re- 
ceived it  the  picture  spoke,  assuring  her  that  her  son 
was  in  the  best  of  h(>alth  I    /..lotlier  remarka1)le  thing 
in  the  museum  is  a  mud  image  of  a  buddha  named 
.Mete  Fuyeh,  upon  whose  muddy  head  it  is  declared 
hair  began  to  grow  soon  after  he  was  completed.  He 
is  carefully  preserved  in  a  glass  case. 

Of  the  sacred  tr(>e  from  wliieh  the  lanin>ery  takes  its 
name,  and  wliieii  grew  up  from  the  hairs  of  Tseng 


THK  LAMASKHY  OK  KUMBl'M  113 


K'iil'a,  a  word  !mi>t  1h'  Niitl.  Tliciv  aio  ihivv  of  iIicpc 
ln««'.«i  ill  ii  yard  ivar  the  t»oldcn  Tiled  Temple.  All  pil- 
grims visitin*;  tlio  Iniiiafcry  take  Hi)eciul  pains  to  pny 
reverciiiT  t"  the  ci  iitral  tree,  aiul  to  nicivc  .-oiiic  of  it? 
leaves,  on  cacli  oiii-  ol"  uliicli  is  clearly  discernible  to 
the  eye  f)f  tlic  faithful  the  image  of  Tsong  K'aba.  No 
niir  .iKimnl  Kiiiiibum  seemed  to  question  this  mavvcl 
hut  tln'  two  rorci^Micr.^.  We  friijiiciitly  vi>ili'(l  the  tree 
and  liail  the  leaves  in  our  hands,  l)Ut  our  eyes  were 
holdcn  from  seeing  the  image  or  anything  ap[)roaciuiig 
it,  a  disal)ility  which  the  lamas  coolly  informed  us 
arose  from  tlic  fa(  t  that  \vc  wwv  not  true  followers  of 
the  Buddha.  This  explanation  is  rather  dania;,Mn^'  to 
the  ri>i)utation  of  MM.  Hue  and  (Jalut,  wlio  declare 
ihev  saw  i"n  the  leaves  of  the  tree,  not  images  of  Tsong 
Kaha,  hut  wclI-roriiKMl  Tilietan  chaiMctirs.  There  is 
notliing  in  Hue's  narrative  so  perphwi'i;,'  as  this, 
aiul  without  (|uestioning  liis  voracity  oi  cannot  re- 
frain from  wondering  to  what  extent  he  fell  under 
t!io  nia'^ic  ^I'l  lI  of  ihc  T.-on;^  K'alm  Ic^'cud.-  ;  nor  is  it 
any  the  less  ch^ar  why  tlic  leaves  wiiieli  in  Hue's  <htv 
Ijorc  Tibetan  diaradcrs,  should  luive  passed  on  from 
literature  to  art,  producing  now  only  images  of  the 
paint !  The  tree  lias  been  variously  dassified.  nockliill, 
following  KreitiK'r.  fir-t  lhou,i:bt  it  was  a  lilac  {Phila- 
dclplius  coronariun),  but  later  he  concluded  it  was  a 
species  of  sj-ringa"  {i^;/riii;ja  villosa,  Vahl).  We  saw  the 
tree  onc(>  wIkmi  it  wa:;  in  bloom — the  flowers  are  very 
much  like  lilacs,  1ml  llie  leave-  seem  to  bo  stifTor. 

Besides  the  worship  of  Tsong  K"aba"s  imago,  we  wit-, 
nessed  many  oiiicr  weird  and  interesting  ceremonies 


114 


WITH  THE  TIBKTAN'S 


<luriiig  our  rcfidt'tuo  in  Kuiiilmm.  Otic  «if  ihe  moist 
imprffeivc  was  that  of  *' nocturiiiil  <1i'\(>i  ions,"*  trlt.'- 
I'lMtrd  jM'riodiiiillv  hy  ilu-  Iiimii>.  At  in-lilfall  (lii-  pro- 
jilc  ari'  cHlIcd  to  the  liDiisetops  liv  loud  hhi^t-  im  a  liniti 
jna(U'  of  a  lar^'c  shell  from  the  Koku-iior.  'I'lit'  woim  ii 
and  cliildrcn  from  f.usar  carry  hiiiidlcs  (if  frnjfrant 
wood,  wiiicli  i-  Inirii'il  iii  liitK'  !i ic-placo  .irraiigcd  for 
tlu'  piirpox'  oil  the  I'luf.  A-  iln  iiici  ii-r  i.f  ilu'  hiiniing 
\V(M)d  ri,-c>  as  a  wccl  .>ll\  riiig  to  tlic  IWi'l'lha.  all  voices 
unite  in  tlio  {lianling  of  some  tuiiiitelligihlo  song  or 
liyiHii.  On  I  he  rnuf  of  i  jk  h  house  sniiie  one  does  duty 
;i!  the  pi'a\rr-u  her],  .-iiliiij:  iluw  n  crn^s-h'L'L'i'd  an.  re- 
\olviiii,'  it  at  tic  utiiio.-l  speed,  for  it  i>  hclieved  the 
faster  the  cylinder  turns  the  greater  the  merit  accru- 
ing to  the  worshipper.  Some  of  the  lamas  and  women 
are  hiisy  pa>-iii^  their  rosary  t!ir<Mi;_di  tlieir  liii;^ers, 
while  otiier  lamas  stand  witii  iiowed  heads  uttering 
the  famoii-  !\  sv!ld>led  :nv'  ration,  *'  Out  mnni  mtdrnc 
Intnl."  I'iniii  the  lir>f  Muncl  of  the  signal  horn  at 
nine  o'clnek,  tin  ni;,dil  li'i-oines  liiile(Mi>  and  >leep  is 
ont  of  the  <piestio,>.  The  l)eatini^  of  ;^'ongs  and  i  vmiials 
and  the  ringing  of  hells  acooinpaiiy  the  worship,  while 
with  these  discordant  sounds  hleiid  ilie  voices  of  a 
tluni-anil  laina>  until  t):e  noise  M'eni-  'ike  an  echo  from 
jiandemoiiiiim  The  whole  seetie  i.-  iliiiminateil  hv 
thousands  of  red  paper  lanterns  suspended  on  poles, 
and  hy  incen.=o  fires  that  aTf  Icppt  frrsh  b}'  constant 
adding  of  tlie  fr.igrant  fuel.  Ti'o  night  slowlv  creeps 
away,  hut  the  noise  does  not  >u!)side.  The  untiring 
muscular  energy  of  the  devotees  who  iieat  huge  gongs 
hour  after  hour,  and  the  lung  power  of  others  who 


THE  LAMASKRY  OF  KTMBUM  115 

blow  inorssamly  un  llw  jiixaiitit'  horns,  is  uiiK  mar- 
velous,   rill.  Iannis  hold  th,.  ivri'inony  of  "  n<M-turnaI 

''■  '11'  '  r  .uiv,-ii  iiici ,1.  ,11,. I  II  i.  ihciv- 

l"iv  |.ariiiij.aU'd  in  wiili  ihf  yreati'sl  of  solmuity  ami 
I'li'vor. 

Aiiothor  impofinfr  ccroinoiiy,  rolfhratod  once  a  year 

lll'ti'''iii!i  ,,r       i;,-t  Ml..., II,  i>  "Th..  IJinicr  V.od 

I  '      I'''!'  -'MIC  jMV\|.,ll>  \u  It   til,.  |,.,|.|- 

iiig  to  th..  laina.x  ry  aiv  lilnaily  nni'ivd  wiiii  travdcrs 
arriving  from  China,  Afonjiolia"  and  all  Tik-tan  terri- 
toric.-.    Soiiir  aiv  m..iiiii..,i  nn  horses,  driving  U-fore 
lliiiii  their  iica\ ily-liunlciir,!  yA~:  others,  ul"  hi"-iR'r 
I- ink,  are  borne  on  .-liilely  eaniei>,  with  h»ng  n  iinucs  ol* 
|K'd«'strian  pilgrims  following  behind.  There  are  prie.-ts 
uitii  el.jx  ly  .-ha\.  ii  luail,-  and  wooden  knaptiacks  thrown 
over  their  >hnul,l,r>.  and  laymen  with  long,  tatteroti 
slieej.skin  gowns  ami  short  wild-looking  hair.    .\>  the 
pilgrims  arrive,  the  rooms  of  the  lamasery  are  lirst 
oeeupie.l.  tlim  the  hlack  tents  of  the  Tibetans  begin  to 
rise  uniil  the  entire  valley  and  hillside  heeoine  as  one 
vast   eiu  anipiiu'iit   resounding   with   the   shouts  and 
laughter  of  men,  women  and  c-liildreii,  the  whining  of 
eamels,  tlie  nei-hing  of  hoi-ses  and  mules,  the  barking 
oi"  dogs,  the  (•Iatt..rin,L'  of  gon-<  and  eynil)als,  the  blow- 
ing of  horns  and  the  ringing  of  hrlls.    On  the  main 
road  to  the  teniplr  are  scores  of  wiiite  tents  oj'  M,)ngol 
and  Chinese  merchants  who  have  oonie  not  only  to  pay 
their  respects  to  the  r.ud.llui,  hut  to  di^po.-e  "of  their 
wares,  consisting  cliicl!\  of  cutlery.  luv,]],.-:,  rlnlh  ho,i(  . 
loa,  charm-bo.xes,  idols  and  oiht'r  articles.    The  pe,,ple 
III  motley  i.roeessions  surge  toward  the  center  of  attrac- 


116 


WITH  THE  TIBETAXS 


tion  in  the  courtyard  of  the  Golden  Tiled  Temple, 

whore  in  a  pavillion  erected  as  a  temporary  slirine 
.-tandb  tlic  j;rcat  Itultcr  unniiv  l!icv  iiav.'  mino  to  woi'- 
^hip.  'J'he  <hriai.'  i.-  about  J'oily  iVct  hiyli.  twenty  feet 
long  and  twenty  feet  wide,  made  of  four  wooden  pillars 
connected  at  the  top  by  large,  painted  beams  from  which 
are  suf^pendcd  ;^trii»  of  savin  lliat  serve  as  walls. 
The  satin  is  beam i fully  worked  in  (levice>  represent- 
ing the  dillVrent  forms  in  which  Sliayka  .Muni  ap- 
peared on  the  earth  ])efcre  his  last  incarnation,  in 
which  he  became  tlie  liuddha.  At  the  rear  is  a  largo 
table  on  which  buru  hundreds  d'  hutter-lani])-,  and 
a})ovo  it  rise,  layer  upon  layer,  a  series  of  buiter  bas- 
reliefs  of  most  e.\(iuisite  workmanship.  The  first 
layer  represents  a  famous  temple  in  IJiasa  across  the 
doorways  of  which,  by  some  clever  maehanism,  ])aper 
guards  are  made  to  move  to  and  fro.  and  a  )uig-e  drap)n 
with  wide  open  jaws  seems  to  crawl  from  side  to  side. 
On  the  second  layer  stands  the  giant  butter  image  of 
Buddha,  about  twenty  feet  high.  His  features,  his  cap 
and  robes  are  admirably  remlered.  lie  is  represented 
as  blessing  his  peo[)Ie;  lii-  hands  are  streUlied  out  o.'er 
them  and  his  head  sligluiy  bowed  down.  By  his  side 
stand  still  other  pieces  of  butter  art,  such  as  small 
reptiles,  flowers,  vegetables  and  different  kinds  of  ani- 
mals. .Vhovc  the  great  imago  is  a  smaller  image  of 
Buddha,  which  represents  him  sitting  in  a  tem])lo  re- 
ceiving the  homage  of  the  people.  His  head  moves 
mechanically  in  recognition  of  the  homage  given. 
Everything  is  beautifully  eyeiuted,  not  only  the  mould- 


TIIK  J.AMASKI.'V  OF  Kl'MBUM  117 


ing  of  tlio  imagoF.  Init  also  the  painting,  being  artistic 
in  the  true  sense  of  the  word. 

Confronting  the  table  on  which  are  the  butter-lamps 
is  a  long,  low  bench  covired  with  red  cloth,  prepared 

for  the  lama  dignitaries  wlio  are  to  come  to  worship 
the  image.  These  dignitaries  are  accompanied  by  some 
half  dozen  attendants  carrying  big  red  lanterns.  On 
arriving  in  front  of  the  butter  god  the  attendants  bow 
down  to  tlie  ground,  ]iut  tlicir  ands  to  their  foreheads 
three  times  and  utter  the  prayer  "  Om  mani  padmc 
hum,"  while  their  master  kneels  on  the  rod  covered 
bench,  ofi'ering  some  sticks  of  incense?  to  the  greasy 
deity.  Tlie  ordinary  rank  and  file  are  not  allowed  to 
kneel  on  the  bench  in  ofTering  tlu-ir  dcvotioiis ;  thev 
must  be  content  with  the  bare  ground.  .\t  a  certain 
stage  in  the  proceedings  there  is  a  great  commotion,  as 
the  lifh-Ji(i-.<!itiiiii,  i,r  lilaik  bunas,  who  are  the  police- 
men of  Kuinbuin,  jnisb  through  tlie  crowd,  cracking 
their  big  v,  nips  in  order  to  clear  the  way  for  the  great- 
est dignitary  of  all,  who  is  coming  to  inspect  the 
images.  It  is  the  great  "  god-nnui,"  the  incarnation 
of  Tsong  K'aba.  The  hch-ho-sliaiifi  luwA  the  proc  - 
sion ;  after  tb'  n  follows  a  lama  of  high  rank  carrying 
a  bundle  of  burning  incense  sticks,  and  another  with 
a  pyramid  of  l.Htmhii  decorated  with  paper  of  many 
colors,  inscriltod  with  mystic  characters.  Another  lama 
follows,  hold'iig  in  his  hand  a  sceptre  adorned  with  a 
cross  and  on  either  side  of  him  is  a  lama  bearing  a 
lighted  torch.  Xext  eomcs  the  ;:reat  incarnation  in 
yellow  satin  I'obcs,  lioMing  in  o;ii^  band  a  sceptre  and 
in  the  other  a  b;'autil"ully  lini>hed  rosary  of  polished 


118 


W  ITIl  TllK  TIBKTAXS 


ivory.  On  lii>  lu'ail  is  a  lii;j,'li  yi-Ilow  initor  and  his  fi^ot 
are  sliod  with  vrlvcl-topiu'd  Cliiiic-c  \>ih>\>.  With  -tati'ly 
step  lie  moves  toward  the  hiilter  iiiui^t^.  ljut  lie  is  too 
lioly  to  oflVr  lioiiiajiv  to  the  Biuhllia  idol,  lie  alone 
I'i'iiiaiii-  >laniliiig  wliili'  all  tin-  oIIk  r  dignitaries  pros- 
trali'  t  hcniM'lve.-.  Al'ier  iii>iii'(t  in;;  llic  iin;igr>  ilie 
^rcat  iiu-aniation  returns  ^lo\vl\•  to  his  palace  on  the 
hillside  overlooking  the  Oolden  Tiled  Tenij)le.  llis  de- 
]tarture  is  llie  >iLriial  for  loiid  jnhilalion.  Tlie  iniilli- 
tude  >n(ldeidy  leap  out  nf  their  reli^^ious  iimod  and 
give  themselves  over  to  hoi-leroiis  songs  and  laughter. 
They  seem  to  lose  all  control  of  themselves,  dancing 
and  yelling  like  nuidiuen.  Ii  i-  plain  that  the  cfrrninny 
i-  at  an  end.  if  the  p(iiplf  ha\i'  i  h.-mgcd  --d  lia\e  ihi' 
god-.  The  heat  of  the  hundreds  of  lamps  has  had  its 
<-ll'eet  on  the  surface  of  the  images  even  though  cov- 
ered with  paint  ;  stream-  of  grea>e  are  dri])ping  from 
the  noses  and  lingci's  nf  the  ileities.  and  soon  nnthing 
is  left  hut  shapeless  masses,  la  the  early  morning 
priests  appointed  to  the  task  remove  the  remains  from 
the  hoards  and  throw  them  into  the  ravine  where  the 
dug-,  wiihcs  and  liirds  devour  ihein  for  lireakfa>t. 

Of  the  origin  of  tiiis  festival  little  can  he  said.  The 
answers  received  from  the  natives,  whom  we  asked  for 
an  explanation,  gave  us  plainly  to  understand  that  it 
was  not  generally  known.  Some  said  that  it  was  a 
fea-t  in  honor  of  tin*  great  Tsong  K"alia;  others  said 
that  it  was  a  ceremony  illu>tralive  of  the  unreality 
and  worthlessness  of  earthly  honor  in  a  material  body. 
In  the  iieginning  nf  i!ic  ci'jiiih  moon  the  [)reparations 
for  the  feast  are  begun.    The  council  of  the  lamasery 


'I'lii;  LAMAS  Kin  OF  KrMinM  iiy 


romo>  tonrclhor  and  sclcfts  nmldcrs  and  placos  iliom 

IlinliT  the  ,MI[i"r\i-i()ll  (<(  A  (if  ;;rral    t';lUl('  ill  this 

iiii-  'I'iu'  I'lUiiT  is  t'lU'll  rnllc'(toil,  and  I'luin  lliat  tiuu' 
on.  until  late  in  the  last  moon,  it  scarce  and  dear. 
TIu'  liiillcr  is  lirou,L;lil  iiiin  cool  places,  wliero  it  is 
sidijVctcd  to  a  tli(iro\ii:li  kiu-adin;;  [inni'-;-,  wlicrcli',  it 
lj"conii'S  more  solid.  During  this  time  of  the  vear  it 
is  very  cold,  which  adds  to  making  the  butter  1 
for  the  i)ur)io-f  fnr  \\i;i(  h  it  i-  to  \)v  used,  but  also 
iiurcases  the  >nHVTiiii;-  n\'  artiMs  lu'cause  they  have 
to  jiut  tlieir  hands  coii>tantly  in  cold  water  to  lower 
their  temperature,  lest  tlity  should  spoil  the  features, 
la  w  !  v  f^riM.  d.  iiy  touching  tlieju  with  their  warm  liaiuls. 
Al'ici'  I  he  I'.ii-iiiiiig  ,;  id  mnldiiig  aiv  finished,  the  coun- 
cil mi'cts  again  and  ajipoiiits  the  painters.  The  moM- 
ers  then  leave  th.eir  work  entirely  in  the  hands  of  tiie 
latter.  Both  are  bent  upon  one  thing,  that  of  harvest- 
ing the  prai-e  of  -.iicir  siquTior-  and  fvllow-Iaiiias.  and 
thus  obtain  the  prize,  a  >iim  of  money  given  fur  the 
be.st  designs.  :Muc1i  has  lurn  written  of  the  lieatben 
in  other  countries  who  worshi])  tlie  heavenlv  bodices, 
animals,  imaires  nf  (day,  wood,  stone  and  mdal.  b\i! 
the  Tilietans  witii  their  monstrous  butter  buddha 
occupy  a  uni(pie  place  in  the  world's  iilulatry. 


CHAITKH  VII 


A  TirDmilST  SAINT 

Mina  Fuyeh'f  Ahadc — lli.-j  Previous  Incarnations — 
M:ili:itiniis — Convci>;it  is  on  Christianity — Jambula 
— Behind  the  8ot')U's. 

The  luunc  of  tlio  hi  ma  st'i'v-il  welling  in  wliieli  wo  lived 
was  "  Miiia  Kiinra."  that  is,  the  palaee  belonging  to 
Mina  I'liveh.  Each  of  the  Kumbum  lamas  of  high 
rank  has  a  l-arira  in  whifh  he  entertains  his  pesing,  or 
])eo]>le  from  his  di.-lriet  wlio  come  to  visit  the  lamasery. 
i)iiring  his  alihot>liii)  Mina  Fuyeli  dwelt  principally 
in  u  house  bearing  the  name  ol"  Tsong  K'aba,  the  re- 
former, and  called  also  la-roiifi,  or  official  residence. 
Minn  Knnra  was  ^urroumleil  by  a  high  wall  painted 
reil  and  white,  ihrougli  whicli  there  were  two  entrances. 
One  of  them,  large  and  very  imposing,  was  for  the  ex- 
clusive use  of  the  master  of  the  house,  or  some  great 
visiting  fuyeli;  the  other  was  for  ordinary  use  and  led 
through  a  smaller  oourtyanl.  There  were  two  large 
.stone-paved  courtyards — l!ie  outer  one  was  surrounded 
by  two-storied  compartments,  and  had  communication 
with  the  inner  one  by  means  of  massive  doors.  In  the 
inner  r-ourtvard  wore  the  liousehold  temple,  the  private 
apartments  of  the  buddha  when  at  home,  and  the  three 

130 


MINA  FI  VEH. 
SOMETIME  ABBOT  OK  THE  LAMOSERY  OK  KLMBLM. 


A  Br  DDI  1 1ST  S  AIXT 


121 


living-rooms  which  lie  liad  plaood  at  our  disposal.  All 

the  iiparlmriit-  \\\iv  well  imilt.  ihc  woiHlwork  was 
l)aimed,  the  laliiiu  windows,  comrary  lu  cii.-tuin,  had 
glass  panes,  while  a  liberal  supply  of  the  very  best 
Chinese  furniture  gave  the  whole  interior  a  compara- 
tively luxurious  apiH'aram  (\  On  oiic  side  of  the  build- 
ing, and  at  the  rear,  llouri>hed  a  gl■a^^y  lawn  relieved 
l)y  flower  beds  in  full  bhmm,  Mina  I'uyeh  being  very 
fond  of  flowers  and  quite  successful  in  culti\ating  them. 
Two  or  three  large  tree>  -u]iplied  >helter  from  the 
^iin's  rays,  whieh.  at  an  altitude  of  nine  thou-and  i'eet 
alutve  ihe  sea  level,  are  very  .-trong.  especially  in  sum- 
mer time.  Before  the  Mohammedan  relwdlion  of  1S(il- 
~,  [  the  house  had  been  much  larger  and  more  ma^nili- 
eenl.  Tliei-e  still  remain  ina->ive  >tone  step-  lead- 
ing to  an  elevation  whieh  ,Miiia  Fnyeh  pointed  out  as 
the  site  of  the  splendid  apartments  ho  had  oceiipied  in 
bis  ju'evioii-  iii'ctime,  lnii  \\'iii  li  bad  been  destroyed  by 
'Mohammedan  hie  and  not  rebuilt. 

Mina  Fuyeli  was  oidy  twenty-seven  year;_uld,  yet  he 
eonfidertly  as.^erted  that  he  had  lived  in  this  palatial 
abode  previous  to  the  year  1S(!1.  He  professed  even 
to  have  vivid  reeolleet ii'us  nf  all  that  peiiained  to  his 
]n'evious  in.amat ion,  and.  more  than  that,  he  could 
tell  some  things  that  were  going  lo  happen  in  the 
next  I  He  took  great  pleasure  in  prophesying  that  Mr. 
Rijnhart  would  in  hi-  next  lifetime  reappear  on  tlie 
eanhjis  a  Innbllia.  as  a  reward  for  the  good  work  he 
was  doing  in  the  present  existence.  One  project  was 
dear  to  Mina  Fuyeh's  heart — it  was  that  of  restoring 
the  former  residence  to  its  nrigin,"il  gr.nndenr;  hut  .is 


12-2 


WITH  TIIK  Tilil'  r.-W'S 


yd  lit'  liful  novel-  ln'cn  (iiiitc  rich  onmiph  to  undortako 
it,  and  during  tlic  i i(iii!,I.r,i>.  limcs  ..f  the  >,voii(l  ii'- 
lit'IIion  hv  mure  tliiin  oiire  coni'iaiiii.i!!  ■!  luhi-.  If  tlmi 
he  liad  not  .-jieiit  any  iii'inev  m  ixaiini:  .111  eilil'Oc  tlial 
iiiiglit  again  f^iiecuinl)  to  tlie  flames. 

DiiriMg  (itir  -My  in  tlic  Kiinr.i.  Miiia  Fuwh  caino 
will)  liis  ~ccrc;iirv  and  t rca-ii icr  in  pei i'linii  re!igi<ai> 
devotions  in  lii<  linu-cliold  ii-miile  during  a  period  of 
llirec  day?.  Their  worship  consisted  niainly  in  tli<' 
elianting  of  prayers  to  I'le  aecompaiilni.',;!  of  the  jiii- 
gling  of  li;'il>.  and  lir.iMng  of  lin],.  ilniui-  niadi'  ol" 
skins^truLched  ovu'  liiiiitau  >i<ull-.  When  ihcv  iiad 
cliaiVtod  thojnselves  lioarsc  they  swallowed  co[)ious 
t|iianlities  of  tea,  and  tlien  (anu'  into  our  aparlmcnt*, 
sieiiiiiig  to  enjoy  ihe  i'e-pi<(>  t'roui  the  dull  routino  .1- 
keenly  as  school  ehiidren  enjoy  reeess.  During  sueli 
intermittent  visits  mncli  time  was  spent  in  conversation 
on  ChiIjdi»w4y--tHuI  Euddlu^iau-ruhjeets  of  which  Alina 
l"uyi-li  never  seemed  10  tire.  Soon  aflor  \vi'  had  madi' 
hi-  acipiaintaiK  e  .Mr.  IJijnhart  had  given  him  eoiiies  of 
the  Christian  Gospels  in  the  Tihetan  eliaraeter,  among 
'ihem  a  copy  of  St.  Jolm,  which  lie  prized  very  liighlv. 
Me  hr.d  a  marvelous  memory,  and  was  soon  almost  as 
familiar  with  the  text  of  the  (;ospe]s_ as^vjirou r-el \vJ. 
and  was  ahlc  quite  intclh'gentl\-  to  discuss  the  various 
incidents  of  the  life  of  Jesus,  quoting  2)assages  witli 
astoni-hing  ac  iraey  and  appn^itencss.  lie  told  us 
that  he  heUevca  thorouglily  in  de<u-,.  but  that  he  diJ- 
not  see  any  rcason_whv  he  should  nMioum-e.  I^ndilhi-m 
and  T)penmn"fl  (^hrisf  inn,  .■  He  oou^ld  not  spp  nny  insnr- 
moun tabic  difficulties         neeeptincr  ]^Mh   gyyfiima  f.ir 


.\  lUDIHnsT  SAIVT 


even  nil  ihr  -rciil  (liirlniic  of  rfiiicarniiliiiii  with  iv.-pi'ct 
ti)  wliiclj  Chrislianily  and  liuddliism  arc  Vuj)i;o.se(l  to 
Maud  af  the  (i|ij)()site  poles,  bo  claimed  that  whereas 
the  Cm-ii,']-.  did  not  (^xiilicitly  tra.'h  t!ir  (liutriiie,  vet 
they  dill  nut  I'Xprejffh-  deny  it.    lie  indeed  went  fiir- 
ther  and  doelared  his  belief  thai  ^esns  was  no  other 
1  lian  a  rei ncurualuja iiX.BudilIia,JIluLlll»t  Tson;:  iv-i' • 
tile  gri'at  'rihelan  reformer,  was  a  Tati'x..in'  -'''M-Uiv>iiIxJ 
desus.    At  the  ^anie  lime  Mina  I^'iiych  (nur-~cil  hini- 
.-elf T'liarmeil  with  the  gospel  story,    ile  t^ld  {lu-w 
were  nniny  ]iaralle!s  between  Jesus  and  T.song  K'aba; 
tlial  the  lilli'!'  had  gun.'  jIm!!:!  liialmg  the  t-iek  anil 
learhing  I  lie  piMijil,.  ju>t  lik^  .Fc-ii-.     When  we  -[inl.r 
of  the  eiueiUxicin  lie  >aid  that  'JVong  K"aija  had  been 
]M'rsceiiled,  too.  and  added  that  even  to-day  in  Tibet 
it  \va-  lint  wi>c  for  a  lama  to  be  '•  ino  ltimhI."    I  be- 
lieve thai,  all  uiieon--ciou-dy  perhaps,  Mina  Fiiych  - 
I II  en__ [hiu  Ul^:tUL--,i^JL-ij.a'i^uiili;i^jspei  _tj_'ai;liiu^-.aHit*«4*— 
Ids  people  to  an  extent  that  has  as  ^ct  been  po»ible 
for  no  ChriMian  niiaoiuiiiiry.     Witli  all  the  fainoirs" 
lama-  and  piluTinis  fi-oin  the  far  intei'ior,  even  frimi 
Lhasa,  as  also  from  .Mongolia,  he  conversed  on  the 
subject,  telling  them  what  he  knew  about  Christian 
doctrines,  and  teaching  them  to  pronounce  for  the  first 
time  the  name  '"IV^^J/'r^Z/jTu."  .To>us  Christ. 

The  kaiiiiu  was  far  superior  to  the  average  lama 
in  intelligence.  lie  had  been  educated,  so  he  told  us, 
in  his  former  lifetime,  in  Lhasa,  and  had  enjoyed  the 
iiisti'uriiou  (.f  a  very  wi.^e  snowy-bearded  old  lama  at 
ivumi)um;  yet  his  knowlnlp'  was  exceedingly  limited, 
a  fact  which  he  cheerful Iv  adinitled.    lie  knew  prac- 


124 


WITH  TIIK  riUKTANS 


luiiilv  Jiiilliiii-  I'l  ili<  I'lUMilt  wuilil.  h,i(l  travolcil  Imt 
lilllf,  iiiul  lia«l  ail  itioa  that  IVkin,  wliicli  he  once 
vi^iiril.  ;it  till'  ()!ln  r  t  iiil  ol"  till'  worlil.  Ik'  niics- 
lioncil  .Ml'.  Ilijiihiirl  i'V  the  hour,  cnrcrnlly  not  m,u'  ihr 
iiu.-woi's.  ami  inar\('lin,u  at  the  uluic  tcachrr's  uoinK  rlul 
raiip'  of  knowhnlgc.  Wlu'ti  .Mr.  Uijiihart  (lemonstrati'il 
tu  liiiii  in  a  scries  nf  olijrct  h'ssons  with  plohc  and 
canilli.'  ihr  roiuniliix  "f  ihi.-  earth,  his  iiiti're-t  and 
jdeasuiT  know  im  liouniU.  for  he  hail  always  inlieved  it 
to  1)0  flat.  Iff  studied  geography  with  all  the  ajitncs.s 
(if  a  sehoiil-hoy.  leaniiii-,'  fnini  an  old  atlas  given  liiin 
liv  Mr.  Uijii'iarl  llie  nanir-  •,['  many  we~lern  cniintrii'- 
ami  seas,  l-'reiimnl ly  he  e.spressed  an  ardent  haiging 
to  accompany  us  to  America  or  t(.  Kuroiu'  if  we  should 
ever  go  lionio,  in  urder  that  he  mi.u'ht  see  I'nr  him-i  M' 
and  learn  ^nmeihiii.L:  "I"  the  wurld  li";niid.  m)  I'lill  i<\ 
mv.-tcrv.  Of  the  occiill  knuwled^'c  of  iIk  hidden  thin^> 
«if  natuie,  altrilnited  hy  Theo.-ojiliists  to  the  Tilictan 
IiriestH!  Mina  Fuyoh,  although  ahhot  of  one  of  the 
gre:ite>t  lama-erie-  in  all  Tihet  and  ()(  (  npyini;'  a  por- 
tion of  spiritual  and  intellirtual  ciuincnce  surpassed 
uiily  hy  the  Dalai  Lama  "  at  Lhasa,  knew  nothing, 
lie  had  never  seen  a  mahatma,  and  was  much  .sur- 
|jri>ed  when  we  told  him  that  western  people  helieved 
.-ueh  to  e.\ist  ill  Tihct.  On  the  <nie>tiou  of  inahatmas 
we  made  very  careful  and  minute  inquiries  of  many 
lamas,  all  of  whom  confessed  their  ignorance  of  any 
su<-h  heings.  There  was  no  record  or  even  lei^'end  (d' 
anv  haviriL''  ever  visitt  d  Kntnlium,  and  one  of  the  olde.-t 
pi  iests  in  the  laimiM'i^. .  who  had  spent  years  in  Lhasa, 
told  us  he  never  heard  of  a  mahatma,  even  in  that 


A  Bn)F)IIiST  SAINT 


"  Cil  v  Ml  'J'lii'ir  arc,  it  !>  irm-.  Hiiiif  laiiia>  who 

profc.-.-i  to  huvf  iiiaj,Mcal  powers  liy  wliirli  tiny  arc  ultti- 
t(i  control  till"  raiiiM  iitnl  turn  i)ai)(T  liorsis  into  real 

oiu'.-,  to  he  carried  hy  tlie  wind-  to  the  helji  of  iravclors 
overlakeii  liy  the  iiiountaiii  in  rait.  iMiiiiiiiia, 

our  Tiltetan  teacher,  oiue  l)rought  to  Mr.  Hijuharl  the 
fl-ood-cnt  from  which  thofc  loiig-ta,  or  "wind  horses," 
arc  primed,  and  allowed  him  to  make  as  many  copies  as 
he  w  i-hed  In  >end  hmiic  to  friend -.  Hut  n<  it  hip;;  eon  hi  he 
furtluT  from  the  truth  than  the  hcdief  entertained  hy 
many  occidentals  that  the  lamas  nre  superior  beings 
endowed  with  traiipcemient  physical  and  inlelleetiial 
;.Mfl-.  On  the  contrary,  they  are  mere  children  in 
knowled-e.  .-wau'd  li\  the  eiiiMtmu.-  that  phiy  on  ih" 
very  surfai'e  of  iK'irijj.  Diirin;.'  all  our  four  years' 
M)journ  among  Tibetan  -  of  \ariuu>  tri!)C8  and  districts, 
we  did  nnt  meet  a  ^in,:.de  lama  wlio  wa-  eonver^ant 
with  cvi'ii  the  sim]de  l'act>  of  nature.  .Mina  Fuych  wat- 
far  above  the  avenifre,  for  the  great  mass  of  thorn  we 
found  to  he  ii.'norani.  superstitious  and  intellectnallv 
atroi)hied  like  all  other  prieslhonds  that  have  .,ever 
come  into  contact  with  the  eidi;;hlening  and  npiiftni;; 
influence  of  Christian  cducalion.  They  are  living  in  the 
dark  ages,  and  are  tiiemselvcs  so  1)lind  that  they  are 
not  aware  id"  the  darkness.  Ten  centuries  of  Buddhism 
have  brought  iheni  to  their  i»re>ent  state  of  moral  and 
mental  stagnation,  and  it  is  ditlieult  to  believe  that  any 
force  less  than  the  Gospel  of  Christ  can  give  them  life 
and  progress  in  the  true  sense. 

Tibetan  hima^  would  as  soon  d<udit  tlieir  present  ex- 
istence at-  question  the  truth  of  the  doctrine  of  reincar- 


WITH  Tin:  TIIJKI'.Ws 


Ililllnll.      W  ith   tllclll   It         lllMlf  til, 111  .1   .-|ir(  ii'.il  ,  ,11  !l 

is  a  fact,  tlu'  hasic  iHistulate  of  llifir  t'litiri'  j  li:!  nphv 

"I'  111'''.  Mill. I  I'llV.ll  >JiolvC'  with  llir  lllllin.-l  a  ,"ll  Til  h '  i' 
"'it    nlilv    nl'    111-    liri'lillic    illlMliil  \     |  il'i  ,  ,    i  1 1  ilT 

|iri'.-viit  uiic,  hut  ipf  a  .-run'  of  iiu  aruatioii^  liiroii<;li 
which  lie  huil  |ia<>t'(l  .-iiuc  he  attaiii>-(|  sainthood,  ami 
coiueniiii^'  each  of  which  lii.'-  un  niii     -;uui|  him  good 

xrviiC.      lie  imt     M)     r.ll'    ai|\ alircil.     lliiUcMT.  a- 

."Sakwi  .Mum,  liir  t'ouiNlcr  oi'  l!uildlii.-iii.  ulio,  he  a— iiivi! 
lis.  was  iiKiiriialed  "(ol  times  and  couhl  renieinher  the 
•''1"  ini  iin  .1!  M'M-  liiat  pivi rili'd  iiis  attainment  of  saint- 
hiiud  a-  wrll  ,1-  ill,.  I'lirl}  that  follnucd!  Thr  \va\ 
ill  whuh  tile  'I'lhi  laus  keep  track  of  llie  line  nl' 
^uccessive  incarnations  in  interesting,  and  \>.  will 
illustrated  hy  an  incident  from  Mina  l''uyeh".s  own 
r.Niu'riiiii  r.  When  a  iiii-re  ihil  !,  hel'tife  he  was  -nit  In 
the  laiiiaK-ry  to  he  trained  as  a  priest,  it  had  been 
a.«eerlained  of  rourH-  what  e-^)  or  individuality  had 
reappeared  in  hi-  hody.  A  nilinher  of  articles  iteloiig- 
ing  to  \  Minus  deceased  lama>  were  placed  hei'ore  iiiiii. 
and  I,,  wa-  retpiired  to  m  K'c  t  tho-c  he  had  n-ed  in  . 
forniei-  liit  lime.  Among  the  arlielo  fnuii  whirh  the 
selection  was  to  be  nunlo  were  a  numher  of  rosaries, 
am!  a-  l!  r  young  chnd  chose  the  rosary  and  other  thing.- 

tlial  had  iielongi'd  [n  a  ronuer  hinia  nai  1  Miua  Fiivi  h, 

his  identity  was  uugaiii.-ayalily  establi.-hed,  and  lie  iiui 
oldy  inherited  the  name  but  alsc  t'l^  property  and 
rank  whieli  had  been  his  in  the  p.'.  -  :  as  iiitarh,i;ic)M. 
Speaking  "f  hi-  elinicc  of  ro.-arv  he  ^aid.  "  Win-  -linuld 
1  ii'it  recogiu/.e  il  among  all  others,  ihe  one  I  had 
used  for  yeare:-"    When  Mr.  Kijnhart  laughed  good- 


A  III DIMIIST  >AI\r 


127 


M.it  ri'll  .,  fii.  '  uiji'i's  cndiilil y.  lie  inMlU't'd  whul  it) 
t!l''   tn;'        "  wliii   '  ,|.|   \vitlli--M'(l   the  lirucccdili^'-, 

ll.i'l         ii    111'     :    -t    iMinUKini;    prool"   nl'  I'ormri 

:ii<i'  uiuiiltiy.  a    w.'ll  n>  (if  his  niiirvclons  iiisipht. 

iiiuiil- r  itf  liitr,-c-  -nine  nf  I  liriii  \  "iiiii;-.  il.i-liin- 
">H-:!(iuri^li''il     (Mituiil-.    iiinl    iiiiiti-    lr:in  iiii'l 
iccn  ,        were  iirnii;,rlit  l)t  f,,|,   liilll.  Ilr  ilniM'  its  till'  ullc 
■  "■I'Mi.uMfi^'  tn  iii-  formrr  \\U'  till-  most  dilaiiiiiatcd  of 
il^'iii   il!      '       r    ■        .i  ild,  it  was  lu'Iil.  would  trr- 


1 


sfliil.'il   ill.      !|M.|   atllMrlivc  li)(ikili;j  pot) 


111  •  r.itinii  witli  1  uiy  l.itiia>  \sv  \\ itc  ^'ivcii  ri'iH'alod 
di'i-i   _  (It  till-  irrctiKiiiy  of  idt'iitilicatioii.  and 

iilllioii^h  MM.  Hue  and  l.iibcl  witc  iiu  liiicd  to  htdicvo 

1-  i-  nfirti  can    ■!  on  ;;i   1  faitli.  and  that  tlic  iiiy^ti.'- 

ncii:'  ii'>ult>  act  o!n|)aii\ iii;^  il  ai  i'  lo  hi-  accounted  fur 
only  on  the  -uppo.-ition  <d"  tlic  aijcnfy  of  Satan,  wc  had 
rca>'>n  to  ludicvf  it  is  a  pioco  of  p  irely  human  docrp- 
ti'iii  in  wbicli  till'  (lciri\ci>.  it  i-  true  arc  lai-;,''clv  >clf- 
ilcecivcii.  'riicro  arc  not  a  few  of  liic  more  intelligent 
laymen  who  arc  putliriently  unorthodox  to  suspect,  and 
with  reason,  that  the  young  child  iM^fori.'  choosing  the 
artiele  has  heen  prnnipleil  liy  Iii-  pannts  or  by  inllu- 
I'lifial  lamas  who.  for  a  consideration,  become  s|)ccially 
interested  in  his  career  I 

Although  Jlina  Fuych  was  woefully  ignorant  of 
natural  science,  we  found  him  an  ai-conipli-lied 
linguist,  eonversan!  with  Tibetan  both  classif-al  and 
collfxpuul,  t'hincse  and  Mongolian.  So  proficient  was 
he  in  the  latter  tongue  that  he  once  made  a  tour 
among  the  Eastern  Mongols  -omcv.  Iiat  afl.  r  the  fashion 
of  a  mendicant  friar,  reading  the  Buddhist  sacred 


128 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


books  from  villagi'  to  villiigc,  iiiid  from  (out  to  tent, 
and  receiving  therefur  wlialevcr  the  people  were  pleased 
to  bestow.  Chinese  he  had  spoken  at  I'ekin,  where 
he  had  also  for  the  first  time  seen  "foreigners." 
Among  the  curios  he  had  brought  back  from  the 
Chinese  capital  was  a  collection  of  i)hotographs  which 
he  had  taken  to  be  representations  of  Buddha,  but 
which  turned  out  to  be  mostly  photos  of  French  and 
American  actresses  arrayed  in  costume.  When  we  told 
Mina  Fuych  this  he  was  <|uite  ashamed,  and  handed  thi' 
same  over  to  us  to  be  disposed  of,  begging  us  not  to 
say  anything  about  it,  as  no  lama  is  supposed  to  have 
pictures  of  women  in  his  possession.  Mina  Fuych  was 
(juite  conscientious  in  this  matter,  and  willingly  sacri- 
ficed the  entire  collection  with  the  sole  exception  of 
a  photo  of  Alexander  of  Russia. 

So  intimate  did  the  friendship  between  the  Icaiipo 
and  Mr.  Kijnhart  become  that  the  former  freely  dis- 
cussed in  our  presence  not  only  his  personal  affairs,  but 
also  all  matters  pertaining  to  the  lamascr)'.  Very 
few  days  passed,  especially  during  the  rebellion,  with- 
out an  interview,  the  huipo  sometimes  coming  to  see 
us,  and  just  as  often  ^Ir.  Rijnhart  being  summoned  to 
the  official  residence.  On  such  visits  I,  as  a  rule,  ac- 
companied my  husband.  One  day  we  were  sent  for  in 
a  great  hurry  by  TIsam-tso,  the  Irinpo's  treasurer,  and 
on  our  arrival  we  found  that  ofTiciaTs  countenance 
badly  disfigured  by  blows  from  the  hand  of  his  master, 
Avho  had  fallen  into  a  fit  of  distemper  and  lost  control 
of  himself.  The  news  of  th.e  kanpo's  illnc--  spread 
through  the  lamaserv  and  evervone  seemed  to  fear  lest 


A  KL  DDlilST  8A1XT 


129 


wmctliiiig  seriout-  .-lioiilil  liiipiteii  him.  In  our  diag- 
Jios-i;?  of  t!io  case  v.c  found  Iiim  in  a  peciiliar  condition, 
like  one  demenled,  though  docile  a  child.  His  ill- 
ness had  heen  caused,  we  discovered,  by  the  inordinati' 
tiuantity  of  fruits  sent  from  Kuei-teh,  which  he  had 
eaten  that  morning.  Soni(>  powerful  .<cdatives  and  a 
large  dose  of  calomel,  a  drug  we  found  particular!;, 
useful  among  orientals,  relieved  him  completely,  so 
that  he  was  quite  himself  the  next  day,  and  very  grate- 
ful for  his  recovery. 

Shortly  after  this  incident  1  wa.-  stricken  with  an 
attack  of  diphtheria  which  well  nigh  proved  fatal,  and 
wliea  I  was  barely  convalescent  K"ai-i-tan,  our  young 
^c^vant.  contracted  the  same  disca.sc.  We  entreated 
him  to  remain  with  us  olfuring  him  every  atti'iition, 
but  of  no  avail.  Sick  as  he  was,  he  insisted  on  going 
home  because  his  father  had  summoned  him  to  jKirform 
certain  religious  duties  on  hearing  that  the  boy  had 
recently  slaughtered  a  sliccp.  To  a  really  devout 
Buddhist  the  taking  of  life  is  a  sin  which  is  not  easily 
atoned  for.  K'ai-i-tan  left  for  home,  and  within  four 
days  the  carpenters  were  manufacturing  a  coOin  under 
the  roof  of  his  father's  house.  Death  had  dci)rivcd  the 
father  of  a  dutiful  son  and  us  of  a  faithful  servant,  to 
fdl  whose  place  we  secured  no  one  for  a  long  time. 

Jambula,  a  ^longol  priest,  of  whom  mention  has 
already  been  made,  had  first  come  to  our  notice  by 
being  one  of  five  or  six  strong  lamas,  who  were  beat- 
ing a  little  acolyte  for  letting  fall  a  water  bucket 
which  lay  smashed  in  pieces  at  their  feet.  Mr.  Rijn- 
hart  interfered,  standing  ready  to  defend  the  little 


130 


w  rrii  'I'm;  'i  ii'.K'rANs 


cliikl  from  iheir  cruelly  liy  more  than  word?  if  iioi'd  bo: 
iUKl,  on  accoiinl  of  thi?  act,  t-'ven  though  directud 
against  himself,  Jamhula  had  conceived  a  great  liking 
for  my  husband.  When  we  were  without  a  >(  r\ant  he 
undertook  to  help  us  in  every  way  he  could,  makiiiL' 
our  tea  in  the  morning,  sweeping  our  rooms  and  finally 
helping  us  to  move  when  we  returned  to  Lusar.  Some- 
times he  would  drink  tea  with  us,  and  when  he  had 
tinished  with  his  basin,  he  wnuld  lick  it  out  with  his 
tongue  in  older  to  save  furtiier  washing.  Needless  to 
say,  we  kept  our  eye  on  Jambula's  basin,  and  saw 
that  it  got  a  thorough  scouring,  but  at  the  same  time 
we  would  not,  on  account  of  a'sthetic  sentiment,  lie- 
tray  any  word  of  disgust  to  wound  his  large  and  loyal 
heart. 

The  little  boy  whom  ilr.  Rijnhart  had  rescued  was  a 
Mongol  lama  who  lived  with  his  teacher  in  the  hou-e 
that  we  occupied,  and  we  often  bad  ociasiou  to  pily 
him,  for  the  teacher  treated  him  with  great  cruelty, 
sometimes  beating  him  severely  and  never  giving  him 
even  a  pleasant  glance.  In  common  with  other  acolytes 
of  the  same  age,  be  wa>  only  too  eager  to  conilnne  i)l;iy 
and  mischief  with  his  various  tasks.  Sometimes,  in- 
deed, these  boys  were  transformed  into  veritable  little 
scamps,  the  terror  of  all  whenever  their  jiarticular 
teachers  were  out  of  si-ht.  The  spirit  of  luisebief  is 
not  confined  to  the  ver\  young  lamas,  but  takes  on  a 
juoro  serious  aspect  when  the  older  ones  lay  aside  their 
religious  duties  and  turn  their  attention  to  other  things, 
for  even  fighting  i>  not  cm  hewed  by  some.  One  day  a 
young  lama  came  to  invite  us  to  accompany  him  to  hii 


I 

5 

1 


A  BUDDHIST  SAINT 


131 


lioiiic,  where  a  compaiiioii  lay  ill,  and  a?  he  seemed 
anxiousj  to  have  no  delay,  and  Mr.  Rijnhart  could  not 
at  the  time  go  with  him,  1  went,  on  \\\>  promising  to 
bring  iiu'  home  aiiiiin.  On  my  arri'  ,1  I  l'<iund  tliat  my 
j)atient  wa.s  a  Mongol  lama,  who  had  been  lighting  in 
the  night  with  some  of  his  companions,  and  had  several 
larg:  gashes  on  his  head.  After  binding  up  his  wounds 
I  left  for  home,  mounted  on  my  mule,  which  was  led 
liy  my  'ril)('tan  boy,  while  tli<'  lama  walked  near  us. 
Siiddonly  we  hoard  excited  cries,  but  not  understanding 
the  language  well  enough  I  did  not  know  what  was 
nu'ant,  so  paid  no  lieed,  when  unexpectedly  a  .-tone 
thrown  by  a  priest  from  across  the  ravine  tlew  past  me, 
J usty  missing  my  head.  .My  boy,  frightened  beyond  con- 
trol, rushed  into  the  temple  to  say  his  prayers;  my 
guide  was  nowhere  to  be  seen,  but  the  mule  took  me 
safelv  home,  for  there  he  was  accustomed  to  be  fed. 
The  abl)ot  explained  afterwards,  when  Mr.  Rijnhart 
indignantly  protested  against  such  treatment,  that  no 
one  is  allowed  to  ride  through  the  monastery,  and  I 
had  l)roken  that  im])ortai't  rule;  l)Ut  tlie  lama,  the 
abliot  admitted,  had  displayed  poor  maniUTs  to  thus 
try  to  injure  me  when  I  was  innocent,  and  especially 
when  I  had  l)een  trying  to  relieve  suffering. 

The  Hiauer  of  (li>ei]iline  in  the  lamasery  is  a  sovious 
(me.  Mina  Fuyeh,  not  having  learned  the  virtue  of 
self-control,  fouml  it  no  easy  task  to  rule  the  four 
thousand  lamas  under  his  charge.  On  festive  occasions 
a  large  company  of  .~pi(ia!!y  appointed  lamas  arrive 
with  hug"  Idiiek  whips  and  try  to  keep  order.  Peevish- 
ness and  tiirbuleiuy  leading  to  acts  of  insubordination 


132 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


are  distinguishing  characteristics  of  the  priests.  The 

atmnsplioro  of  lioly  moditatioii  and  hlij-sfnl  onlm  with 
which  iconic  iVom  iit'iir  would  fill  the  'rilxiaii  laiuasers', 
with  its  .<ul)Iiini'  inahatiuas,  too  cxaliod  and  puro  to 
live  among  ordinary  men,  is  only  the  atmosphere  of 
an  uninfornicd  and  roso-colon'd  imagination.  Distance 
lends  cnchaMtment,  but  at  llio  tirst  contact  the  mirage 
disappears. 


CHAPTER  VIII 


OUB  BEMOTAL  TO  TAXKAR 

Tankar  and  Surroundings — A  New  Opportunity — Ani 
and  Doma — The  Lhasa  Officials — Drunken  Lamaa 
—Visit  of  Capt.  Wellby. 

Situated  on  the  Ilsi-lio  River,  about  twenty-four 
miles  northwest  of  Kumbum  and  twenty  miles  east 
of  Topa,  the  Mohammedan  stronghold,  is  Tankar  (or 
Donkyr),  a  town  of  considerable  commercial  import- 
ance, being  a  -sort  of  distributing  depot  for  Chinese 
merchandise  going  into  the  interior.  Hither  come  the 
caravans  of  the  Dalai  Lama  from  Lhasa,  that  dignitary 
driving  no  small  trade  with  the  Chinese;  and,  there 
being  a  direct  route  from  Taiikar  to  Lhasa,  a  large 
caravan  leaves  for  the  sacred  city  "  annually  in  the 
fourtli  moon.  The  town  is  one  also  of  political  and 
strategical  importance.  Here  the  Sining  Amban  halts 
on  his  way  to  worship  the  Koko-nor,  or  "  Blue  Lake;" 
here  he  also  receives  the  Mongol  princes  once  a  year 
and  distributes  presents  in  the  name  of  the  Emperor. 
Ten  miles  to  the  east  passes  a  part  of  the  great  wall  in 
which  is  a  gate  called  A' wan  men,  now  in  ruins,  but  at 
which  a  guard  of  soldiers  was  previon-ly  stationed. 
The  town  was  once  within  Tibetan  territory,  but  gradu- 

133 


134 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


ally  the  Chinese  have  encroached  for  agricultural  pur- 
poses upon  the  district  in  which  it  stands. 

Alonjj  the  Ifsi-lio  iiro  riiirrow  gorgo  wliith  inako  tho 
c'litraiue  to  tlio  Taiikar  valli'V  very  dilllciilt,  and  of 
which  during  the  rebellion,  tho  Chiueso  took  aiivaniago 
to  keep  the  Mohammedans  in  check.  The  approach 
from  till-  oast  is  made  c-harniiii;:  In-  a  mill  and  some 
trees  oiitsidc  ihc  vnA  gate,  witli  i)i'aiitiriil  temples  on  the 
Jiills  in  the  rear.  There  is  one  i)riiiei[)al  long  stn-et 
lined  on  either  side  by  stores  in  whieli  are  to  be  found 
Chinese  wares,  goods  for  bartering  with  the  Si-fan  from 
the  Lake  district,  grain,  bread  and  foodstulFs  of  the 
Chiiic-c.  The  yaniens  opening  out  into  this  street,  a 
small  laniaserv,  several  wool  depots,  houses  of  citizens 
i\nd  of  Tibetans  from  Lhasa,  and  more  Chinese  temples, 
nil  up  the  remainder  of  the  space  within  the  wall  of 
the  town.  Tlirough  the  latter  are  two  gates,  the  eastern 
and  Western,  outside  of  whieli  are  sti!)urbs,  that  without 
the  eastern  gate  being  for  the  most  part  ruins,  with 
the  exception  of  some  inns  and  shops.  Previous  to  the 
Mohanimi'dan  rebellion  of  18G1-T4  ten  thousand,  mostly 
.\fohainniedans.  wa>  the  e-tiniated  population  of  this 
suburb.  Without  the  western  gale,  every  day  are 
to  be  found  Chinese  merchants  sipiatted  for  some 
distance  along  both  sides  of  the  road,  with  their  small 
stock  of  goods  spread  underneath  an  awning — thread, 
lieads.  braeelets,  bread  and  other  thing.-.  Tlies(>  jieltv 
nierehants  are  patronized  by  tlie  [idurer  clas.-es  of  people 
whom  they  fleece  in  every  way  jio^sible.  In  this  re- 
spect they  are  especially  severe  on  the  Tibetans.   In  the 


OUR  REMOVAL  TO  TANKAR 


135 


•  pace  between  the  outer  and  inner  gates  carpenters  and 
loolinakprs  are  at  work. 

During  tlio  iwvni  ri'l)cllii)n,  as  alroadv  f^tated,  a 
largo  proportion  of  tlio  Moliaiuniedaii  population  left 
their  homes  and  Joined  the  rebel  forces,  while  the  re- 
maining part,  estimated  at  four  hundred,  were  peace- 
al)ly  following  their  callings.  iia\ing  presented  tlioin- 
sclves-  before  the  ('hinese  oHieial  saying  they  were  loyal 
to  China.  Their  professions  of  loyalty  were  accoptid 
and  peace  might  have  prevailed  were  it  not  for  a  quar- 
rel tliat  arose  between  a  Cliinaman  and  his  Moham- 
medan wife.  Tiie  woman  stati'd  that  some  night  tlu' 
Topa  Mohammedans  wonUl  come  to  attack  Tankar, 
and  would  give  the  signal  by  setting  fire  to  the  beauti- 
ful temples  on  the  hills  just  outside  the  town,  upon 
which  their  co-religionists  inside  were  to  rise  up  and 
open  the  gates.  The  husband  carried  liis  information  to 
the  official,  and  early  the  next  morning  the  streets 
were  running  with  bh)od.  the  Cliinese  having  fallen 
n[)on  and  murdered  every  Mobanmiedan  man.  wnniaii 
and  child,  except  a  few  girls  who  were  wanted  as  wives 
for  Chinese  sons. 

The  Hsi-ho  itself  is  too  broad  and  tumultuous  to 
work  the  quaint  mills,  but  small  streaiii<  deileeted  on 
either  bank  serve  that  purpose.  The  banks  are 
lined  by  willows  and  poplars  in  profusion,  and  alto- 
gether the  river  is  a  great  boon  to  the  people.  Many 
of  tlie  rich  merchants  from  the  city  resort  to  it  in  the 
spring  and  summer,  camping  in  sheltered  spots,  enjuy- 
ing  the  freedom  of  the  country  with  its  siiady  copses, 
rolling  hills,  and  its  verdant  fields  far-stretching  and 


136 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


t^panglod  wail  llowcrs.  Tlii'  region  literally  teems  with 
game  of  all  kinds,  and  in  the  river  fish  abound.  The 
Chinese  being  clever  j^iiortsnu'ii.  .iiid  iiii|K'(lfil  liy  no 
religious  s(  ru|iles,  avail  tlu'iiiM'lvcs  to  tlic  I'lili  of  the 
opportunity  ul"  i<toeking  their  larders  with  piiea!>ants, 
hare,  trout  and  other  delicacies;  but  the  Tibetan 
Buddhists,  believing  that  in  eviiy  living  animal  is  a 
soul  on  its  way  to  sainthood  and  Nirvana,  liesitate  to 
kill  the  game,  nor  can  they  be  induced  to  taste  any  of  it 
until  after  they  have  mingled  for  some  time  with  the 
Chinese  on  the  border.  It  may  be  observed,  in  passing, 
that  tlie  Tihctans  are  grossly  inconsistent  in  the  mat- 
ter of  taking  life,  for  while  they,  as  a  rule,  refrain  from 
killing  game,  and  have  the  most  indulgent  compassion 
on  a  louse,  yet  they  slaughter  sheep,  expose  their  chil- 
dren and  h(  l|iless  iigeil,  and  even  commit  murder. 
Winter  at  Tankar  is  not  >o  enjoyable  as  summer,  the 
thermometer  registering  occasionally  18  degrees  l)elow 
zero,  and  continuing  at  that  temperature  a  consider- 
able time,  except  in  the  middle  of  the  day.  when, 
owing  to  the  latitude  and  altitude,  the  sun's  rays  are 
strong.  After  a  fall  of  snow  the  natives  swarm  upon 
the  roofs  to  clear  it  off  to  avoid  leakage,  throwing  it 
over  into  the  street  hd  nv,  where  it  remains  until  it 
melts  away.  Bui  even  with  the  mercury  hclow  zero 
when  the  sun  is  bright,  sitting  out  of  doors  in  the  sun- 
shine upon  warm  rugs  is  preferable  to  being  indoors. 

The  inhabitants  are  a  motley  crowd,  ten  thousand 
in  number,  consisting  of  Chinese.  .Mongols  with  their 
eharacteristic  face,  geu'al  ami  good-natured,  the  women 
with  their  headdress  of  velvet  embroidered  with  col- 


OUR  REMOVAL  TO  TANKAR  137 


orcd  silks  and  set  with  silver  and  beads  worn  in  front 
instead  of  at  llir  liiuk.  the  drt'st-  being  otherwise  the 
same  a.>-  of  the  'I'lhctaiis ;  ilioii  thoro  arc  ^orgcously- 
arruyod  'rik'taut;  I'roui  Lhasa  and  tiie  Si-fan  Tibetans 
from  tlic  hake  district,  smart  and  neat  looking  in 
comparison  with  many  other  tribes,  their  woiiun  hav- 
iii<^  the  heavy,  cuinljersonie  heaildress  at  the  back  with 
^liells,  bright  beads  and  pieces  of  cloth. 

For  various  reasons  it  occurred  to  us  that  it  would 
be  advantageous  to  open  a  mission  station  at  Tankar. 
Lusar.  it  i.-^  true,  had  served  us  well  as  a  starting  point, 
and  at  Kumbuni  we  had  so  liioroiighly  won  tlie  con- 
lldence  of  the  people  that  we  felt  perfectly  at  home  in 
our  work.  Indeed,  the  temptation  was  to  settle  down 
in  Kuiiibiini  and  Lusar  for  a  life  nii-~i(iii.  Had  wo  not 
under  the  provi'leiiec  of  tied  overcome  all  the  prelim- 
inary ditlieulties  of  establishing  a  foothold?  Were  wo 
not  preaching  the  gospel  to  those  who  had  never  heard 
it,  and  might  we  not  reasonably  expect  that,  continuing 
ii\  our  presiMit  Held,  we  should  in  due  time  see  results  y 
Besides,  other  ties  bound  us:  we  had  really  come  to 
love  the  people;  our  tears  had  flowed  together,  and  wo 
had  now  many  interest >  in  eomiiion.  Thri>ii.rboiit  the 
months  of  terror,  disease  and  slaughter  we  had  known 
the  fellowsliip  of  their  sutferings,  we  had  gone  down 
into  the  valley  with  them,  passed  under  the  cloud  with 
them — yes,  we  had  literally  been  baptized  with  tlieir 
Ijaptism  of  blood,  and  it  was  only  when  the  thought  of 
our  leaving  them  began  to  stir  in  our  hearts  that  v,e 
realized  how  close  and  tender  were  the  ties  that  bound 
us  to  them.   Then  there  was  the  yearning  to  see  them 


138 


WITH  THK  TIBETAXS 


all  won  to  tho  Siivionr  and  n  joii  in^-.  n  •  w«>  wore,  in 
the  rmddiii  of  liio  mu,|mI  ..f  (loilV  lo\c.  anil,  luid'we 
iu  ti.l  iiH  ivIv  upon  ,,111-  „uii  iVcliii--  II)  th,.  mattiT.  we 
would  havi'  iVMiaiiinl  al  tlu"  -ivat  LmiaM  iv,  iii>tnict- 
ing  the  di-ar  oTiildron  of  tin-  I'.iblr  SlIi.x.I,'  eoiiviT.>.ii)g 
with  the  lamas  concerning  the  Christ,  and  amid  our 
iii'  ilical  iiiiiii>iniiinii>  prcachiiiji-  the  -,i>]m-I  to  the  poor. 

iUit   how  often  Iheiv  colli,'.-  lo  the  Chri.-tiaii  llic 
"stirring  of  the  eagle-s  iic>i Ahrahain.  going  J-urih 
to  the  Pronnsed  Land,  yet  "  not  knowing  whither  he 
went,"  cannot  remain  at  llaran;  Klijah  is  siimmtmed 
to  stern  .Inly  from  i],,.        i  l,,,,,,,.  at  /aiMprth;  tin' 
Ai)ostle  Taiil,  prcaclung  tlu^  go.-iu-l  ,n  A.-ia  Minor  and 
leaving  behind  him  thousands  who  hee.led  not  tluj 
Mil— a;^v.  Mv-  vi>ion>  of  larger  regions  heyond  ;  and  even 
the  Ma-trr  niii-t  irav,.  the  hrook,  and  Minlit  sh.pcs  of 
Judcaii  hills  setting  his  f  ac  i    v,,nl  (leth-cinanc  with 
all  its  dark,  unspeakable  agony,  and  the  awful  iinmoia- 
fioii  on  the  (  ro>s.   As  I  have  already  said,  we  had  from 
iIk'  iMgimiiiig  felt  called  especiallv  for  itinerating  work, 
the  work  of  looking  out  new  lields  and  preparing  the 
way  for  other  laborers,  the  work  of  preparing  thi'  soil 
in  uneultivate.l  regions,  that  by  twos  and  threes,  an<l  in 
gi-eater  iuiiiiIm  iv  when  God's  time  arrived,  the  sowers 
of  the  Word  might  comi   i,,  dark  Tilirt  to  scatter  the 
seed  unto  a  glorious  hai\e>t.    The  door  was  siaiiding 
wide  open  at  Tankar,  and  as  we  were  now  alone,  Mr. 
KergiiM.n  having  taken  up  other  work  in  China,  we 
felt  we  must  go  in.     After  the  rrhelli.m  we  n  ecived 
invitations  from  many  of  its  intluential  inhabitants  to 
eome  up  and  open  a  medical  disp,.nsary,  and  we  knew 


(M  l{  K  MM  OVAL  TO  TANKAH 


139 


that  imanl  an  opportunity  to  preach  thi'  L,'():-pel  Id 
many  wlio  had  uvwt  heard  the  name  of  Christ.  The 
peoph-  of  Tankar  wouhl  not  Ik?  so  completely  under  the 
intUu'iici'  (if  tlu'  liuiiii-  as  were  thoir  of  Liisar,  and  thus 
\\L'  frlioiiM  pi'i'ha|i>  nimv  (|iiukly  have  visihlc  results. 
Ai,'ain,  the  town  lay  on  the  gnat  caravan  route,  travel- 
ers were  continually  leavinj?  for  and  arriving  from 
Lhasa,  and  who  knew  whether  \>\  mn\  in;,'  up  tin  n-  and 
niakiiiix  new  fi-iciids  we  inii^lit  imt  !»'  prrmiltfil  I  i 
accompany  :-omc  c\pci!il  loii  to  tiie  iuli  rior  and  tlm  . 
learn  more  about  the  people  to  whose  uplift inj?  we  harl 
ilivotci!  oiir~('l\('-,  iiiid  find  out  how  far  licyomi  ilir 
iMirdrr  and  at  wliat  point-  missionaries  miixlit  n  >i(li 
llaviuji  fully  ilccidcd,  we  i)aiic  -iood-hyc.  very  rciuil- 
antly,  to  Mina  Fuyeh,  the  abbot,  Ishinima,  our  teacher, 
anil  I  he  many  friends  who  liad  luciimc  so  dear  to  ua 
at  Kninimni,  and  set  out  for  Tankar. 

The  matter  of  securing  suitable  <piartcrs  was  »'.\- 
pediled  by  llu-  aid  extended  to  us  by  the  oHicials  and 
wealthy  nuTchant.-  of  tlic  jilacc,  wiio  knew  iis  well  l>y 
the  rc])utation  \\c  had  ai(|iiin'd  (hiring  the  relicil ion. 
Tlic  iioUM'  wlucii  we  rented  for  tlie  modest  sum  of 
'liil  \"'V  yeiii-,  e.vclusive  of  many  repairs,  was  less  pre- 
tentious than  the  one  we  had  had  at  Lusar.  but  it 
suited  n-  adiu!!' ililv.  e~'>ecially  ,1-  it  wa-  -iliiated  near 
the  wi'stern  gai  of  the  town.  At  iir>i  wo  found  it 
impossible  to  secure  dontestic  help,  for  owing  to  the 
late  war  having  taken  for  service  so  many  of  the  good 
youiiL.''  nc'ii,  and  the  wool  depots  at  Tankar  giving  em- 
ployment and  iiigh  wages  to  many  otiiers,  our  call  for 
a  boy  was  answered  only  by  thieves  and  opium  smok- 


140  WITH  THK  Til  I  TANS 

••!>  I'      IM.in.V    lHUlltll>.  Il.ol,     ,  HUM  .  ,!     I   |„  ,,l.r 

M'i'-"ll.v  h-  :  I'ccl  wri-   vet    >ii,  |  |,.,,;   , 

tuiiify  of  rjirvfiilly  ■    im  uii^  ih,  n      i  f,,.. 
"H*  w.  tv  »H'nt  iu.M  uridcr  il,    i  „,•   t|„.  h..,. 

'  |Mi'";,  iin.l.      ;nh.  I,-:.  ,,, 


;  Pi  t 
f 


'"-l-p  I'lMlniil.  rah.    \.r  I-  v. 


uiii,.  \vh,.„  i„.r  r,  .,.  , 

'  painful  IVun,  „.,..  she      .  h 

'   '  t!u.  -u.,tlnn-  .  ir.ri  »■„ 

'-tl'  "'^l.t  an.!  i>uri:     U,,  '  •„n.l,n 

"'■  " '         •  ^'1  i    i<iH-  i.irt'c  Ml-  four    '-.iy-  -.f 
'  "  !  •""        -  '     .Hi,  -  iiiM    ;  I  uv,,  V. 
'Ill/  i>  Mill,  r  fxlivdU'lv.  I, 111  iif; 
'"•III  !  ami     .|ii|m'.-.<l  fit,.  -•,.,„  ,i 


111 


:  I 

.1 


lilli  lili'C 


"  i-ai.i.  ;,n,i  i.     l  !,„      .|„.  ...  uliov- 

■"^  I'-M-aiKl  -      v.   T     ,.   .  .,  .,.„...„.  .,,  . 

'lima   to  (i..  iiWiiv    w:  j_ 
III"!         -me  inlli-  iii.  ■  , 

'iian\  ir  uil!    '    ...         ,  "  " 

,.   ,  .  ,  '  .1  III- 

lil.xllloil  I      Ihe  {  rlr.H  I 

The  rn  ,.r  wnnuui,  i.  ,      ,  , 

two.  WJi     .,11   nl-]    ^fot|-  .h  ,i.loM\ 

"  i  TiMai,  .     ,e  . 

■^       ,,f   r..    r;  ( 

^  ^iiii'  :..itln      fri,.,,  ^,  .loi„.. 

lli.'ir  u!    ..St  1       vu:  „,    ,  u;n.    Km- iioariv  lu.. 


t     |{  in;M()VAI<  TO  T.WKAR  141 


Alii  III'  ii;:lit  11-  Wilier        In  !  (IoiiI   n.  ii  \mhhIimi 
liiR'k<  irul  oi   t'ilcli  si'lo  (if  th(  .-adilk',  whiit;  Ifuiiia  for 
'ViT  a  yoar  lu  i-  d  as  "  housemaid."  Their  home  was  in 
a  rtvpoi!iil)k'-l    king  courtyard  just  a  few  doors  fmtn 

•irs.  and  of  a  kit(  Itm  and  t'.vd  romn-   in  (' 

HURT  oiH-  ul'  which  wa.-  a  k  iuiy  vmi'  iiiilioard-  nd  a 
little  altar  with  i-  <hU,  butter  I ni.i  s  small  shallow 
l)rai<M  basins  and  iiiifrablo  klntlns.  On  the  h'<inf) 
\\,[  Jiiijioi,  in  w  Ihcic  was  in\  'a)  '  iic.  wliil'- 
a  j  '>!'  (ta  wtdl  .-la-uni'd  vvilh  iniik  .iii<  -al  .iluays 
ht(Hi  ready  on  the  iron  tripod  -tandin;:  m  the  tin*. 
Therv  wa>  also  i  little  w|U.ire  i.i  'itly  \  .iited  box 
with  a  sliding:  i  that  held  l^diiif'  \\\.,-\  .  vcr  I  vi.— 
ited  AniV  Iid'ne  read  and  butter  were  n-adv  sing 
for  me  (she  Itad  irned  of  my  a\ersion  to  tminba), 
clean  rugs  W(  ad  on  the  k'amj.  and  tiie  tea  had 

no  -  ii!  ill  it.  '.vavs  inaile  ]it  ifn-c  ,  ;i()|n^rir-  for 

not  liavin-;  an  otfer  iiie,     it  th»'  lio>|titaiity 

was  genuine,  au'  !  as  lie;irtii\  as  it  was  given. 

TiUHan  and  i  women  are  gn^at  wine-drink- 

ers, whenever  the;-  'i'    j-.-mv.  .,|-  m.i-c  \  .  and 

Ani  «as  no  excep;  ,.ai  to  ilie  rule.  When  under  the 
iidhience  of  Iniuor  she  wa.^  VL'ry  lo(|uaeiou?,  heating 
and  abusing  Doma  in  barbarous  fashion.  The  latter 
riither  liked  \\\\\'\  to^.  .r  when  she  !iad  tlie  (  hanee  she 
..oul  1  iniliilie  freely.  i>  :t  ,  ''lor  a  while  they  both  a"t- 
staiiied  because  1  objected  '  >  it.  Repeatedly,  and  with 
final  puceess,  I  cr»axed  Ani  to  keep  Doma  away  from 
drinking  companies  and  allow  lier  \  ->  follow  the  natural 
girlish  ii:  "inet  of  jiurifv  I  frit  she  posse-sed.  To  my 
exhortations   Ani   w'Ou.W    reply   in   groat  .sincerii' 


■ 


mwmM 


142 


WITfl  THE  TIBETANS 


"  What  a  pity  it  is  that  poor  women  in  our  laud  are 
not  respected  as  in  yours;  here  the}  are  not  expected 

by  parents  or  any  one  el^e  to  lead  wlmt  you  call  inonil 
lives,"'  Alas,  poor  Ani's  words  tell  only  too  truly  tho 
sad  story  of  Tibetan  women's  lives.  So  far  as  we 
were  able  to  observe,  morality  among  them  was  an 
accident  ratlicr  tlian  a  rule,  this  statcniciit  applving  to 
all  ela  sses,  married  or  single.  Tiiouirh  at  time-  there  is 
affection  bctwttn  husband  and  wife,  fidelity  is  not  at  all 
deemed  an  essential  quality  of  womanhood,  and  when 
a  man  goes  away  from  home  he  is  just  as  liable  to  bring 
another  wife  home  with  him  as  not.  This  occurred  in 
a  house  not  far  from  us,  where  a  man  and  his  wife  had 
lived  comfortably  and  agreeably  together  for  years. 
Suddenly,  on  his  return  from  Sining,  ho  brought  an- 
other very  young  wife  with  him.  The  first  wife  wa.^ 
angry,  and  treated  the  poor  young  woman  with  such 
cruelty  that  the  latter  committed  suicide  by  taking  a 
large  dose  of  opium.  Her  parents  then  demanded  in- 
demnity from  the  hu>l  ami  for  (he  h)ss  of  their  child, 
and  the  home  became  one  of  misery.  The  entire  social 
system,  and  especially  the  domestic  relationship  of 
tho  Tibetans,  nec^s,purifyingi 

Doma  was  a  very  briglit  girl,  speaking  fluently  ]\Ion- 
golian,  Chinese  and  Lhasa  Tibetan,  and  as  she  gave  us 
lessons  in  Mongolian,  we  found  that  she  possessed 
great  latent  ability,  having  a  good  memory  and 
sharp  insiglit.  Every  small  particle  of  cloth  and 
any  of  our  cast-otf  clothes  were  greatly  appreciated 
by  her,  and  afterwards  when  we  had  our  Tibetan  ser- 
vant Bahim,  who  came  in  for  a  share,  she  was  quite 


OUK  llEMOVAL  TO  TANKAli  143 


jealoutf,  proving  how  easily  spoiled  the  natives  are.  Had 
wo  !-tave<l  long  in  Tankar  and  Kahini  remained  with  us, 
lie  and  Duma  would  probably  have  been  married,  for  it 
had  been  discussed  by  him  and  An.  and  I  often  think 
that  he  may  yet  some  day  from  his  far-away  home  in 
Ladak'  find  his  way  again  north  of  the  Kuenluns  and 
settle  down  at  Tankar  as  the  old  woman's  son-in-law, 
for  Doma  possessed  great  charms  for  him.  But  these 
are  dreams,  idle  dreams. 

A  visit  with  Ani  to  the  home  of  a  ^longol  woman 
married  to  a  wealthy  Lhasa  Tibetan  was  quite  an  event 
to  me,  for  she  was  the  most  respected  native  woman  in 
Tankar  with  the  exception  of  the  wife  of  the  highest 
Chinese  official.  Her  little  daughter,  thirteen  years 
old,  was  engaged  to  be  married  to  a  young  boy  aged 
eleven,  son  of  the  Mongol  Prince  of  the  Koko-nor,  and 
this  boy  was  living  in  his  bctrothed's  home  where  he 
and  the  little  girl  studied  the  Cliincso  character,  played, 
ate  and  slept  together,  the  girl  ahvjiys  obeyed  and  re- 
spected by  the  boy,  conspicuous  wherever  he  went  in 
his  yellow  silk  clothinp.  The  rooms  in  this  home  were 
luxuriously  furnished  with  carved  and  highly  polished 
cupboards,  tables  and  chairs  of  Chinese  make,  beauti- 
ful rugs,  many  brightly  shining  brass  fixtures,  fresh 
white  and  colored  paper  on  the  lattice  windows,  all 
indicating  wealth  and  a  certain  degree  of  cleanliness 
iind  {esthetic  taste.  Ilor  husband,  politely  called 
Tsun  bo,  was  a  large,  well-built  and  well-dressed  man, 
who  looked  as  if  he  partook  too  freely  of  chang,  an 
alcoholic  beverage  which  he  made  in  his  home  and  sold 
in  large  quantities  to  the  Tibetans.    As  the  appoint- 


144 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


ments  in  this  house  were  of  the  highest  order,  the  re- 
freshments that  wore  oirorod  to  guests  wore  of  good 
quality,  notably  the  tea,  which  was  the.  real  churiietl 
tea,  tiie  kind  most  favored  by  all  Tibetans  from  the 
interior.  It  is  made  from  brick  tea,  boiled  for  five 
minutes  or  longer  in  salted  water;  the  liquid  is  then 
strained  into  a  churn  in  which  butter  and  (.■<nmba  have 
been  put,  and  the  whole  churned  up  together  by  some 
l>eculiar  twists  of  the  churndash.  It  looks  like  choco- 
late, but  it  does  not  taste  in  the  slightest  degree  the 
same,  especially  when  the  butter  is  tainted,  as  it  very 
frequently  is. 

Among  the  most  interesting  personages  we  met  at 
Tankar  were  the  four  kushok,  or  representatives  of  tlie 
Dalai  Lama.  These  arc  lamas  specially  sent  from 
Lhasa  to  look  after  the  commercial  interests  of  the 
great  potentate,  and  at  the  same  time  they  are  em- 
powered to  act  in  a  semi-official  cajjacity  in  all  mat- 
ters pertaining  to  tlie  commeree  of  the  lopds,  or  Lhasa 
Tibetans,  many  of  whom  trade  at  Tankar.  Every  year 
the  large  trade  caravans  sent  by  the  Dalai  Lama  to 
Pekin  pass  through  Tankar  and  are  superintended  by 
the  kufiliok:  Dr.  Sven  Iledin  has  fallen  into  tlie  error 
of  confounding  these  trade  caravans  with  the  tribute- 
mission  which  the  Dalai  Lama  sends  the  Chinese  Em- 
peror once  every  three  years.  The  tribute-mission 
formerly  traveled  over  the  Ts'aidain-Tankar  road,  but 
ever  since  the  Mohammedan  rebellion  of  1861-74,  by 
order  of  the  Emperor,  it  has  gone  by  way  o*  '<  ihien- 
lu,  although  the  Tibetans  have  frequently  .ioned 
to  be  allowed  to  send  it  by  the  former  route  b-cause  it 


OUB  REMOVAL  TO  TAXJvAR  145 


is  luiKli  easier  to  travel  on,  thou{.'li  now  not  >;o  tsafe, 
owing  to  the  unsettled  state  of  tlie  country.  By  way 
of  Ta-ehien-lu  come  also  the  trade  caravans  of  the 
great  Trashirunpo  Lama,  who  dwells  in  the  monastory 
at  Shigats/A'  near  Lh.it^a,  and  who  is  reverenced  by 
many  'ril)etan  tribes  and  some  Morgols  to  a  grcati'r 
degree  even  tluin  the  Dalai  Lama.  Though  both  the 
spiritual  lords  of  Tibet  engage  in  mundane  trafiie,  they 
do  it  with  mutual  respect,  vavl  with  no  thought  of  com- 
ix lit  ion,  the  one  not  infringing  on  the  territory  of  the 
other. 

The  four  kushnk  have  large  establishments  in 
Tankar,  houses  gorgeously  painted  and  beautifully  fur- 
iiislied.  where  tlii;y  somctinies  y\)vui\  many  months  on 
their  way  from  Lhasa  to  I'ekin.  Having  experienced 
the  dilliciillies  of  travel  between  Lhasa  and  Tani<ar, 
they  are  not  anxious  to  repeat  that  portion  of  the  jour- 
ney, and  so,  frt'(|uently,  on  returning  from  the  Chinese 
capitaL  tlicy  send  the  proceeds  of  their  enterprise  on  to 
Lhasa  in  the  care  of  trusty  stewards  and  await  the 
return  of  the  latter  with  a  fresh  caravan  of  trade  sup- 
[)lies.  Thus  every  year  one  caravan  departs  for.  and 
another  arrives  from.  Iiulh  IVkin  and  Lhasa.  'I'iie 
jirincipal  one  of  these  four  agents  was  81uir-je-ja-l)a, 
while  the  fourth  in  rank  was  Knrpon  Ijosang  Kindum, 
karpon  being  a  title  given  to  respo.isible  agents  who 
have  complete  control  of  all  their  master's  merchan- 
dise. We  knew  both  of  them  well.  The  former  was 
a  large,  corpulent  lama  with  a  round,  fat  face,  a 
small  tumor  on  his  forehead,  while  across  his  head  was 
a  scar  several  inches  in  length,  the  result  of  a  wound 


146 


WITH  TIIK  TllihTAN.S 


dtalt  hiiu  by  roljbtTs  mnw  years  previous.    He  was 

»lros!-o(l  in  yellow  aiul  ivd  linxatU'd  silk  giiriiionis,  with 
a  small  drcular  hat  thai  looked  like  a  ca]>  ol  <rohl,  so 
bright  it  was.  Two  of  his  front  teeth  were  missing, 
and  so  much  anxiety  did  he  display  to  have  them  re- 
placed that  at  his  earnest  solieitation  .Mr.  Hijnhart, 
liy  means  of  a  steel  lile,  made  liini  two  from  the  ivory 
handle  of  a  tooth  brush,  and  fasleneil  them  in  i)laee 
l»y  a  silver  wire  attached  to  tluMu  througli  holes,  and 
then  boiMid  around  the  other  i.clh.  Xo  one  in  this 
land  of  -eieiitilic  dentistry  could  lie  lii  jier  idca-ed  with 
the  mo.-t  i)erfee(  crown  tooih  than  was  that  Tibetan 
h-usliok  with  his  two  crudely-wrouglit  one-,  which  were, 
it  must  be  confessed,  more  ornamental  than  useful. 

l-osang  Kindum.  (lre>^cd  mostly  in  red  -ilk-  and 
>atins,  was  of  sli;:lii  luiild,  tall  and  straight,  with  a 
good-natured,  though  cynical  expression  on  his  face. 
He,  too,  had  had  experience  with  robI)ers',  for  the  year 
we  arrived  in  Knmluim  he  had  lost  a  whole  caravan, 
anil,  knowing  the  people  who  had  attacked  him,  he 
was  endeavoring  to  obtain  restitution  through  the 
Amban. 

Both  Sliar-je-ja-!>a  and  Lo>ang  Kiiulum  were  exceed- 
ingly friendly,  invitimx  n>  fre(|ucntly  to  their  sumptu- 
ous quarters  and  visiting  n>  ju.-l  as  often  in  our  own 
home.  Once  when  our  old  friend  Mina  Fuyeh,  now 
no  longer  alil";t  of  Kuinhum.  had  come  tip  to  spend  a 
few  days  with  us.  Shar-je-ja-ha  invit.'d  the  latter  and 
Mr.  Kijidiarl,  together  with  a  numl)(r  of  noted 
officials,  to  a  fea.«t.  The  occasion  was  so  great  as  to 
receive  the  otlicial  recognition  of  the  Amban,  who  sent 


OUR  HRMOVAT.  TO  TAXKAR 


147 


taltlft>  i)J'  liononuT  in.-vri jil ions  in  <^(th]  U-ttcrs  to  be 
pliici'd  nwr  till.'  door  ol'  llii.'  courts ai'il.  Wlioii  all  '.ho 
ordinary  lamas  and  h-ojios  were  seated  on  rugs  under 
a\vninj.^<  in  tlii'  couriyanl,  and  the  guests  of  honor 
were  on  t!u>  Ir'nii'/s  in  tlu'  rooms,  wine  and  tea  were 
served  in  prol'ii.-ion.  with  viand?  that  would  bo  most 
relished  according  as  the  guests  were  Chinese  or  Tibe- 
tan in  heir  appetites.  Mina  ruveh.  another  living 
Ijiiddlia.  .Mr.  Kijnhart.  a  wealthy  t'liinanian.  and 
Losang  Kindum  sat  on  one  li'iiiu/  and  had  a  very  en- 
joyable time  together  which  almost  became  unpleasant 
through  a  joke,  which  only  the  latter  enjoyed.  Though 
he  was  a  lama,  ho  was  an  inordinate  wine-drinkor.  while 
his  three  guest-companions  on  the  k-'diiy  limiteil  them- 
selves to  tea,  and  probably  from  a  sense  of  impropriet}' 
of  his  so  freely  imbibing,  or  a  wish  to  be  jovial  and 
hospitable,  he  asked  Mr.  Rijnhart  to  have  some.  Xot  re- 
ceiving the  expected  ac(iuieseence.  when  the  little  basin 
covered  with  a  silver  lid,  from  which  my  husband  drank 
his  tea,  was  sent  to  be  refilled,  Losang  Kindum  whis- 
pered something  to  the  servant.  When  the  cup  was 
returned  Mr.  Kijnhart  found  that  it  contained  wine, 
whereupon  ^lina  Fuyeh  was  greatly  incensed  and  in- 
formed Shar-je-ja-ba  of  the  trick.  The  only  com- 
pensation the  genial  host  could  offer  was  to  give  the 
poor  servant  a  lieating  for  lack  of  civility,  when  really 
Losang  Kindum  was  to  blame.  When  asked  for  a  rea- 
son for  the  indignity  he  had  heaped  upon  Mr.  Rijn- 
hart, Losang  Kindum  rejilied  that  he  had  simply  sup- 
posed Mr.  Hijniiart  to  be  likr  the  ordinary  TilK^tan 
lama,  who  refuses  to  drink  onlv  until  the  lirst  drop 


148 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


lias  [)a--cil  111-  iips  iifi  a  result  ()f  |)<'r>iia>;iiin,  anfl  is 
llini  ready  ti  '  •  liis  s-luuv.  The  drunken  habits  of 
>.>nit'  lani.  are  -h<»fking.  Xo  fair  or  festival  takes 
place  wit-!«ait  tigi.t>  and  disorderly  conduct  caused  by 
alcoholic  '.K.  rages.  1  do  not  >ay  that  all  lamas  drink, 
liut  to  say  that  the  majority  of  tiiem  are  not  only  ad- 
dieted  to  drink  but  also  to  gluttony  is  not  at  all  wide 
of  the  truth,  and  this  desiiite  ihr  ti'achings  of  Buddha 
on  teni])i  ran(  (■  and  sclf-t  out  ml.  The  ethereal,  abstemi- 
ous, vegetarian  Buddhi>t  iania  is  a  pure  Jigmenl.  1 
have  seen  a  lama  devour  several  pounds  of  meat  at 
one  sitting. 

Entertainment  is  carried  on  in  a  sunii)tuous  manner 
by  these  wealthy  Tibetans,  anu  at  times  no  expense  is 
spared  for  tiieir  own  pleasure  or  that  of  their  friends. 
They  have  at  various  seasons  of  the  year  what  may  be 
called  theatricals  for  the  want  of  a  better  name,  and 
invitations  are  issued  to  special  friends,  while  any 
others  who  wish  to  see  may  take  up  positions  on  the 
roof  from  which  they  can  look  into  the  courtyard  below. 
We  had  the  privilege  of  attending  oii"  of  these  i)er- 
formances,  which  we  found  interesting  for  the  time 
that  we  remained.  The  performers  were  all  men,  some 
of  whom,  however,  personated  women,  and  were  dressed 
in  cloth  gowns  with  richly  embroidered  jackets,  having 
their  hair  ornamented  i)y  corals  and  green  st(mes,  and 
scjuare  cloth  veils  over  their  faces.  The  play  consisted 
of  the  representation  of  a  reception  by  a  great  poten- 
tate of  embassies  from  different  nations.  The  po- 
tentate was  some  holy  man,  a  great  lama  seated  or,  a 
throne.     The  lirst   to  be  presented   i^  the  Chineso 


OUR  REMOVAL  TO  TANKAR  149 


embassy,  headed  by  a  gorgeously  arrayed  mandarin 
with  feather  and  butt  .      J  followed  by  a  retinue  of 

minor  officials.     He  ut?  his  '.haUi  to  the  pn- 

tcntato  with  chiborato  co.  uony,  but  U>  the  apparently 
great  chagrin  of  the  Chinamen  and  to  the  amusement 
of  the  spectators,  the  khata  is  returned  and  the  great 
mandarin  fails  to  win  favor.    Then  appear  K'n-rhrs. 
men  with  long  wliite  bcanls,  dressed  in  white  plaited 
skirts  and  turljaiis,  one  of  tliem  with  bent  form  per- 
sonating an  elephant  with  a  white  sheet  thrown  over 
liiin.    \e.\t  follow  Hindustani  Mohaiuiiieilans  in  their 
dark'  red  p)wns  and  turbans,  eallinf,'  ab)ud  as  they  en- 
ter in  an  attitude  of  worship  "Allah!  Allah!'  The 
Mohammedan  embassies  share  the  same  fate  as  the 
Chinese  one,  all  their  khata <  being  rejected;  but  the 
climax  is  eomplete  when  a  well-dressed  young  prince 
of  a  royal  Tibetan  house  presents  his  khata  and  is 
graciousTy  received  by  the  big  man  amid  much  rejoic- 
ing.   The  entire  representation  was  accompanied  by 
much  singing  and  daneing,  the  latter  consisting  now 
of  a  ^lowV-digniliiid  step,  now  of  a  vigorous  swinging  of 
the  body  until  the  rope  ends  attached  to  the  girdle 
stood  out  perpendicular  to  the  waist  and  had  the  ap- 
pearance of  a  rapidly  revolving  wheel.   A  drum  beaten 
iit  inlt  rvals  controlled  the  pl-^.yers,  who  at  times  danced 
forward  l(j  drink  wine  from  a  basin  on  the  rim  of  which 
were  three  little  pyramids  of  butter.    With  the  other 
guests  we  were  served  refreshments,  such  as  tea,  de- 
liciou>  bread,  and  Til)etan  souj),  made  of  finely  chopped 
meat,  onions  and  riee  ndueed  to  puip,  a  very  appetiz- 
ing and  digestible  food.    Though  the  entertainment 


150 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


\va?  not  by  any  means  ended,  we  did  not  feel  that  after 

llii'  first  littlo  wliik'  (lur  liino  would  bo  woU  sjwnt,  so 
Jfl't  llu'  iiiitivcs  to  the  full  cii jnymciit  of  their  pl;iv. 

'J'lu'  vifit  ul"  Miiia  i'livL'li  to  our  home  in  Taakar 
was  full  of  interest.    How  many  hours  wc  spent  talk- 
iii.i:  over  ilio  hiirrouiiiir  cxiHTionce  through  which  we  uli 
I'-hI  pa-scd  during:  tlic  ivlidlion.     \V(>  mI-o  reviewed 
Ihe  liiinpy  days  we  had  pas>ed  together  in  Kuiiilniin  and 
renewed    our    discussions    about    Christianity  and 
l?ndd!nsin.    There  was  no  mistaking  the   fact  that. 
thim.Ldi  Mina  Fiiyeli  !iad  hren  nuicli  touched  hv  the 
gospel  story,  and  lhou>;h  he  had  long  ago  come  to  the 
point  of  expressing  his  admiration    for   ("hrist  and 
I'liristian  teaching,  he  slio\v»'d  no  signs  of  willingness 
to  openly  renounce  his  aiice^  ral  faith;  he  was  still  a 
Hiiddhist  by  profession.    W  e  had  done  our  best  to  en- 
lighten him.    We  had  taught  him  witli  the  most  dili- 
gent and  conscientious  care ;  we  had  prayed  over  him, 
and  sought  by  the  example  of  our  daily  walk  to  opon  his 
eyes  to  the  l»eanty  and  .joyousi.ess  of  tlie  Christian  litV. 
and  therefore  ^nrangi-  thoughts  passed  through  our 
minds  as,  during  that  visit,  we  saw  the  people  come 
to  him  with  khatas  and  gifts,  prostrate  themselves  be- 
fore him,  wor-Iiip  him  as  a  god  and  wait  to  rer-eive  jiis 
bies>ing.    To  the  missionary  who  w'»rks  oi.!y  for  visi- 
ble results  there  arc  certainly  many  disappointments 
on  the  foreign  field,  t\n<'  during  tlu'  long  pioneer  days, 
the  days  of  waiting  m;    of  sowing  jced,  on!v  the  con- 
sciousness that  one  is  d.  mg  his  duty  and  obeying  the 
great  Lord  of  the  Harvest  can  keep  the  lieart  full  of 
peace  and  full  of  faith  as  to  the  ultimate  results. 


OUR  REMOVAL  TO  TAXKATl 


151 


How  (liflicult  it  was  to  realize  that  our  vii-itor  with 
whom  wc  sat  and  convcrsod  was  a  man  of  such  influ- 
i  i:if.  imrity  ami  |i()\vit  in  the  eyes  of  the  people  as  to  be 
j'lorcil  lik<'  ii  '^(h\,  I'nr,  arconlinir  to  our  standard,  he 
v.as  jgnorant  and  inaterialistit'  to  a  dt'^irir. 

Mina  Fuyeh  was  accompanied  by  his  little  disciple, 
a  boy  of  about  ten  years  of  age,  whom  wc  bad  known  at 
Kuiidiuiii.  lie  was  lively  as  a  cricket,  and  many  a 
])rank  did  he  play  upon  us  and  his  exalted  master. 
Thinking  his  appearance  might  be  improved  by  a  good 
wash,  I  jirovided  Iiini  with  the  essentials  and  gave  him 
full  instructions:  wbereu]ion  he  very  carefully  pne  bis 
hands,  arms,  face  and  neck  a  scrubbing  with  plenty  of 
hot  water  and  soap,  and  there  was  such  a  transforma- 
tion that  he  was  really  good-looking.  Having  gone 
across  the  courtyard  to  another  room  for  a  time.  I 
was  an.;zcd  on  my  return  to  see  him  at  the  kitchen 
door,  his  face  shining  with  something  more  oily  than 
smiles,  and,  upon  questioning  him,  found  that,  feeling 
uncomfortable,  be  bad  smeared  the  washed  ])arts  with 
butter,  a  cosmetic  that  every  Tibetan  uses  freely. 

In  'connection  with  our  regular  medical  and  j)rcaeh- 
ing  work  at  Tankar,  we  sometimes  went  on  short  jour- 
neys into  the  surrounding  districts — the  beginnings  of 
more  extensive  pioneer  work  to  which  we  were  looking 
forwanl.  In  October  of  18!)G,  on  our  return  from  a 
trip  to  the  grass  country,  we  were  met  at  the  gate  by 
a  messenger  who  informed  us  that  a  signer  had 
arrived  in  the  suburbs  and  was  staying  at  an  inn.  Mr. 
Hijnbart  at  once  roue  off  to  inquire  who  the  unexpected 
stranger  might  be,  and,  as  a  visit  from  European  or 


WITH  Tin:  TinF.TAN'S 


AiiHTican  traveler.-  is  so  rare  in  this  (li>laiit  frontier 
town,  he  liail  tleeided  l)eforehan(l  to  invite  hiin  to  our 
lionio.  I  therefore  inatle  all  haste  to  pet  the  house  in 
order,  ami  IumI  tint  finished  wlion  Mr.  Ilijnhart  returned, 
rolluucd  iiiio  the  iMiirtyard  l»y  an  Kn^Mi>h  m-nt leni.in 
dre»ed  in  a  tweed  .-nil  with  sheepskin  epaulettes,  hear- 
ing  the  tnnrks  of  exjMJsurc.  What  a  thrill  of  delight 
when  we  e\( hanged  greetings  in  j^^md  old  Anulo- 
Sa\onI  'I'iie  -tranter  prnvi  1  to  Le  ('apt.  M.  .S.  Ucllhv. 
of  the  ISili  ilu.-sars,  who  had  made  u  journey  lioui 
India,  through  Ladak  and  Xorthem  Tilwt. 

Ih'  had  l»eon  travelin>i  for  nearly  m  ven  nioiitlis.  anil 
lii.d  (  luountered  many  dillienit ies.  It  had  heen  ln>  in- 
tention to  penetrate  into  Inner  Tibet  from  Ladak 
through  Uudok,  but  arriving  at  the  latter  place  was 
prevented  from  pnK'eeding  further  by  a  large  body  of 
'i'ihetan  -iMiers  -talioned  there  to  guard  the  lJia>a 
rt>ad.  He  was  then  obliged  to  turn  northeastward  in  a 
sort  of  zig-zag  couri^e  and  spend  many  weeks  in  barren, 
uninhabited  country.  His  provisions  had  given  out. 
many  of  Ids  animals  died,  and  his  nu  n  mutinied  and 
di  -erted  him.  so  that  all  that  remaiiu'd  (»f  the  caravan 
when  it  reached  Tankar  was  Captain  Wellby  himself, 
Lieutenant  Malcolm  and  Puflfadar  Shahzad  Mir,  his 
compagnons  <le  vuijiKjc.  his  muleteer  and  two  body- 
servants  with  one  load  of  effects.  The  journey  aeros.-; 
Northern  Tibet,  though  disastrous  in  many  resjX'ots, 
had  not  been  fruitless.  Valuable  observations  had  been 
made  on  the  way.  and  geographical  .■science  enriched  bv 
the  discovery  of  the  sourc(>  of  the  f'humar  river.  We 
A\ii\\  li  t  Captain  WrUby  in  hi.s  own  word.'-  descrilje  Mr. 


Orn  RKMOVAT,  TO  TAXKAR 


153 


Rijnhart',-.  iirrival  in  the  iiui  ami  wliat  iullowod:  "  I 
could  hardly  make  up  i:iy  iniiul  whether  he  was  a 
Kuropean  or  a  Cliinainan.  and  when  he  addressed  me 
ill  a  iiiixturo  of  French  and  ('liiiic-i'  I  \va-  iiiorc 
iiiy-t iticd.  s<;  tu  simplify  mailer.-  1  replied.  '  I'm  an 
Engli-liman,"  and  held  my  hand  out  to  him.  lie 
eagerly  seized  it,  and  gave  me  the  heartiest  shuke  I 
had  reeeived  for  nuniy  a  hmg  day.  and  I  felt  thankful 
thf>t  we  had  found  a  Kuropean  and  a  fricMid  niiximH 
to  iulp  us  in  this  out  of  llic  way  |ilaee.  .Mr.  Uijii- 
hart,  for  that  was  his  name,  was  a  Dutch  missionary, 
ami  had  only  taken  up  hi-  abode  in  Tankar  within  the 
la-t  three  iii(int!i>.  *  *  *  j,,  jmother  moment  wo 
were  trolling'  Ihrouf^h  the  street  in  single  lile.  clialling 
all  the  while,  when,  suddenly  turning  to  the  left,  wo 
very  shortly  afterwards  drew  nj)  at  Uijnliairs  Utile 
hoiiM'.  One  step  up  out  of  the  narrow  lane  landed  us 
in  an  o|)en  courtyard,  where  his  kind-hearted  wife. 
Or.  Rijnhnri.  was  waiting  to  welcome  us.  as  well  as 
^fr.  Hall,  (if  the  China  Inland  Mi^-ion.  who  had  come 
over  to  Tankar  from  Sining  and  had  only  just  returned 
with  the  IJijnharts  from  making  a  trip  to  the  Koko-nor. 
fireat  honor  was  shown  to  me  in  the  eves  of  the  Chinese 
hv  allotlintr  to  my  u-e  the  room  Uiat  faci  l  the  en- 
trance. Tlu  Rijnharts.  when  hy  tlieni,;elvc<.  livi'd  in 
Chinese  fashion,  and  were  on  the  most  friendly  terms 
with  all  the  Chin<  >e  and  Tibetan  officials  in  the  town, 
and  we  ourselves  were  treated  with  courtesy  and 
civility."* 

Captain  Wellhy's  visit  wa^  of  .short  duration,  lasting 

'*'  TliiuuKii  Uiikouwu  Tibel,  b>  Cipt.  M.  S.  VVi-liby.  pp.  aCl  a. 


154 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


onlv  liin'  tl.iv.  Ill  llic  iilUTiiodii  wi-  liail  a  lall  from  ilii' 
princess  of  tho  Knk<i-nor,  wliidi  m  tni-cI  to  luld  inti-rost 
to  till'  octillion.  Ni'xt  (lav,  tucoiupmiiiHl  liy  Mr.  Ifijn- 
till'  ji.in\  M't  uiit  for  a  vi-ii  t  .  tlic  Ixniuhnin 
laiiMMiv.t  and  thriKo  to  Siniiij;  aiul  l.aiitlu'i). 
.\It  aii'.vliilc»,  at  the  t  iirnL'.«t  solicitation  of  the  travelers, 
nnd  further  l>eeause  mniw  arratiffenients  alnnU  our 
mail-  "iilu'r  liii-iii('s>  al  tin'  (  nasi  rcquirctl  adjust- 
in'fi  ]iri'vi(ius  to  \]\<-  <;i('ai  jiMi'Mcv  we  wviv  (■(ii''''iiiplat- 
iiig  to  till'  iiuiTior.  .Mr.  K'ljiiluirl  u>;reetl  to  a(T.iiii|(.  v 
them  to  Pekin,  acting  as  interpreter,  a  sen'ice  of  which 
Captain  Wrllliy  has  made  the  most  courteous  and 
copious  ac  knowledgment.^ 

t  S  eryhirV.v  Mt-  in  1  .  alrl'  tn  pay  \  il  iiniler  llir  giiiil.mre  of 
Mr.  W  i  iniiart,  tiM  iit-i  <■  v  Uf  a  im  iutiin.itt-  kiin\\  iL-d^r  ■  !  iiioii- 
asiery  ili.in  any  otlici  ii  -  i.in,  Imt  ii..  i'  ut.uie  Ins  li-  me  f'  'wo  ye.iis 
ill  I. us. 1 1  icn  iiiniitlis  of  ■.\  i.b  M  vvcM*  sp.  r'l  !i  ttit-'  inonast'My  it  be  h.'is 
made  tiitriiils  vvitli  a  l.tii^r  iiiuul'i  '        it^  iiitii.itr'.  iiiiMr  'ccially 

with  Miiia  Kuyeli,  ou'      ilie  Kif.ut'-.t  :iic  s.iims  iii  ilie  pU  Op. 

Cit.  p.  270. 

!  Op.  Cit.  pp.  3(17  411. 

A'.  i  have  since  learned  with  great  recrei  of  the  lieitb  ot  Capl. 
Wellby  from  wonnda  received  in  the  late  South  African  war 


CllAITKU  IX 


DISTIXOIISIIED  VISITORS. 

Mr.  Itijiiliart's;  .\!>>fii('i — Our  House  is  Ifoldu'd — \'i>it 

(if  I'l    Svt'ii  1  Ic'iliii  -  'r-,i'i.M  ^I^  !i(,al  Work 

Allinli;;  NoiIlJUls — ISiltll  nf  Our  Little  Soil 

Mr.  l>i|iiliiirt  cuiKliictcd  Caplnin  W'rllln's  piirty  to 
IMiii,  irom  tliori'  wi-nt  ovrrhiml  to  llaukuw  with  a 
liLTinan  travoler,  iimdo  now  arrangements  for  our 
mnils  and  su|iplii's,  niid  rcturricd  to  'I'linkar  with  all 
pos>|!,|c  spccil.  I)iirin<;  lii.s  iil).-cii<c  tlic  iiiitivcs  ln'- 
.-towcd  on  nn'  tlu'  ^Miiitt'.-i  kindncs.H's,  iiml  I  fi'lt  pcr- 
"fctly  safe  with  them.  The  women  espcrially  did  all 
\  \  their  power  to  "!iter(iiin  me,  inviting  me  to  their 
I  oiiscs  iiiid  hriiiiri"  ■  ri  '.'ifts.  tlnis  ciiiiidiii;:  nio  t  i 
p  t  acquainted  :  i  .■  r  in  the  most  intimate  way. 
They  seemed  to  fee  ti.Ly  had  mo  under  their  protection, 
and  vied  with  each  other  in  licstowing  upon  me  the 
. ost  coiii-id'M-  r  >  attention  of  whii  li  they  were  capal)Ie. 
Were,  too,  was  a  p  Iden  rhance  to  speak  to  them  o£ 
i.  hrist  and  xf  all  that  llis  religion  had  done  for  women 
in  other  lands,  ami  of  what  it  could  do  for  them.  Du- 
riiitr  'hese  menioral)le  weeks  I  learned  to  understand  and 
sym,  athize  uith  the  heathen  wom^n  as  never  heforo. 
Bcside^.  i  was  kept  busy  with  my  medical  work,  and 

1.W 


156 


WITH  TIIK  TIBETAN'S 


the  cuii.-laiit  iiniviil  of  visiiur-  I'idiii  far  aiid  near  who 
had  heartl  of  the  foiviyn  IfaeliLrs  and  came  to  sec  for 
themselves,  compensated  largely  for  any  feelings  of 
loneliiu'sj  1  may  have  had,  and  made  monoiony  and 
oniiui  impossililo. 

('lui>tmastimo  1  spent  with  Mrs.  llidloy  at  Sining, 
and  while  I  was  away  poor  Ani,  whom  I  had  left  in 
charge  of  the  h  uise,  liad  a  trying  experience.  A  thief, 
knmvinj;  ))r()Iial)ly  that  we  were  away,  hroke  into  our 
house  and  made  oil  witli  our  stock  of  money  and  many 
others  of  our  valuable  possessions,  besides  destroying 
photographic  jdatcs  Iiy  f.\|i()siiig  tlu  ni  to  tlic  light,  and 
enintving  many  vials  of  ]M-c<i()iis  clicinicals  up'in  ilie 
ground.  l\\  llie  aid  of  the  ilog  Ani  located  the  culprit 
crouching  in  a  room  off  the  stable,  and  upon  demanding 
an  ••.\j)lan:iti()n  of  his  presence,  found  herself  suddenly 
(  n;/a;,'r(l  in  a  hand-to-hand  slrn;:,:rle,  at  tlie  end  of 
which  ^lie  was  left  lying  in  a  pit  near  the  stable,  while 
her  adversary  made  his  escape.  Undaunted,  the  faith- 
il  Ani  gathered  herself  up  as  soon  as  possible  uud  ran 
thron.uh  tlie  streets  crying  "  stop  tliiefl"  But  no  one 
would  stop  him,  or  tell  her  who  he  was,  although  it 
transpired  that  nearly  everyone  knew  liim  ;  but  Tiiiclan 
politeness  forbids  anyone  to  .uive  information  that 
would  coin  i(  t  another  of  theft.  A>  >i-on  as  I  returned 
from  Sining  I  iinnu  'lati'Iy  notified  tlie  ijiiinot  of  the 
outrage.  Some  underlings  came  around  to  tell  Am 
that  if  they  did  not  catch  the  thief  she  would  be  held 
responsible  and  be  dragged  before  the  tjamen,  as  it  was 
bcr  fault  that  the  iinj-la-ren ,  "  foreign  gentleman's," 
bouse  had  been  roliltcd.    .Many  a  weary  \\eek  was  spent 


DISTIN(JriSIIKl)  VISITORS 


157 


lit  foir  AniV  iharactor  was  cleared  bv  the  caleliiug  of 
llie  real  thiol'.  1  .shall  not  forget  the  kindness  of  the 
official  and  his  wife  at  this  time  when  I  had  to  visit 
the  yamcii,  for  they  admitted  me  to  their  own  -oom, 
whore,  coiitrarv  to  the  general  custom  in  China,  they 
dined  alone  together.  Miua  Fu\eh,  hearing  that  we 
had  been  robbed,  sent  his  treasurer  over  from  Kumbum 
with  a  l-hata  to  offer  me  any  amour+  of  money  I  inight 
need,  and  to  invite  me  to  reiiirn  to  tlic  lamasery  to 
live,  wliere  I  would  bo  among  "friends."  Lo.smg 
Kindum  (one  of  the  Dalai  Lama's  I'ushok)  also  sent 
nie  several  strings  of  cash,  and  offered  me  as  many 
more  as  I  wanted,  sayin.g  th;'(  riiinese  olHeials  werr 
not  always  to  be  depended  upon,  hut  tliat  the  Tiltetaiis 
were  big-hearted  and  meant  what  they  said.  Having 
full  confidence,  however,  in  my  friends  at  Tankar, 
1  did  not  yield  to  ^lina  Fiiyiir.-  persuasion. 

After  tlie  visit  of  Cajnaiu  WoUliv  we  had  concluded 
it  would  be  a  long  time  ere  we  would  again  1)0  visited 
by  a  European  traveler,  but  this  rare  treat  was  in  store 
for  us  soon<"r  tlian  we  expected.  One  calm,  bright  No- 
vriulii'r  Momlay  tlie  >un  slione  warmly  upon  Ani  and 
myself  as  we  sat  on  our  rugs  in  the  courtyard  enjoying 
some  picn-shi,  for  I  had  invited  her  to  cone  and  have 
dinner  with  me.  A  knock  at  the  entrance  was  answered 
by  the  old  woman,  who  at  once  calkd  me.  and  1  found 
upon  my  arrival  that  the  doorway  was  full  of  men, 
some  of  whom  were  Mongols  and  some,  ijamen  people. 
One  of  the  latter,  acting  as  spokesman,  told  me  that  a 
foreigner  wa-  ^  s-t  ont-ide  tlu^  we<t  gate,  and  was  com- 
ing to  our  home  to  be  entertained.    Upon  (piestioning 


168 


WITH  TflK  TII5HTANS 


him  closely  I  elicited  the  iiifonuatinii  tliai  tlie  lor- 
eigncr  wa^j  on  his  way  out  of  Tibet;  that  he  iiad  sent 
word  to  the  yamcn  to  find  lodging,  fodder  and  firewood 
for  him  and  hi!*  caravan,  and  that  knowing  we  had 
entertained  Captain  Wellhy  and  Lienli'naiit  .Maleolni. 
the  oHieial  had  directed  the  foreign  men  to  pro- 
ceed to  our  home,  all  of  which  was  said  with 
the  mnnncri^ms  peculiar  to  nie-sengeis  from  the 
ijnnit'ii.  It  (lid  \\i>[  M'cin  po-sihli'  that  ai'nther 
explorer  eouhl  have  so  ipiiekly  come  after  Captain 
Wcllby.  an«l  I  feared  it  was  the  men  whom  the 
latter  had  h  fi  in  Tiliet  :  and  feeling  thus.  I  I'  lilicd 
that  the  ollicial  iiui-t  provide  entertainment  for  ihiMn 
himself,  that  Mr.  Iiijidiart  wa>  away  from  home.  The 
Mongols  had  in  the  meantime  been  telling  Ani  what  u 
great  man  the  ai'proaehing  I'm-eigner  was,  an  ainlnin 
lluy  ^aid.  and  had  -o  enli~te(|  her  >ym|)athies  that  >he 
prevailed  upon  me  to  reeuiu-ider  my  deei.-ion,  so  1  said, 
"  Surely,  if  this  is  an  amhan  who  is  coming  ho  must 
have  passports  and  other  papers,"  whereupon  the  Mon- 
gols s.-iid  he  had  sent  them  with  oni'  of  hi:'  men,  wIm- 
wa>  forthwith  called.  He  had  heen  standing  asidi  in 
the  street  and  now  came  forward,  a  large  man  with  a 
long  hhuk  beard  and  a  very  foreign  look,  who,  I  at 
onee  euiicluded.  was  a  Mohammedan  from  India  or 
Kashgar:  had  he  pivsentcil  the  ])a|i(T.-  at  the 
ginning,  su(  h  a  long  consultation  would  have  been 
avoided.  I  looked  at  the  papers  he  handed  me  and  read 
in  Fi'etieh  the  fac  t  that  Sveii  Ifedin.  IMi.D.,  was  on  a 
tonr  of  scientifie  e.\]>lorat ii m  in  Central  .\>ia.  or  s<>iii<'- 
thiiig  to  that  elfert.  and  at  once  told  the  men  that  he 


l)l8TlN{il  ISUKD  Vl.SlTOUS  159 


natf  to  bo  guided  to  our  homo,  and  addod  wu  would 
look  iil'ttT  his  oiitLTliiiiuiK'nt . 

In  ii  MTV  .^liort  liim,'  tik  lariivaii  nf  ila'  givat  Swodi-h 
tnivcler  arrived  at  llie  door,  and  in  tlie  absence  of  .Mr. 
Rijnhart  I  went  at  once  to  welcome  and  extend  to  him 
tlie  hosj  itality  of  our  little  home.  Kno.ving  that  he 
WHS  a  Swede  I  fi  ll  1  nui<t  learn  at  onee  in  what  lan- 
guage we  were  to  converse,  so  1  asked  liini  if  he  spoke 
English,  and  upon  his  reply  in  the  anTirmative,  we  were 
not  at  a  to  find  topics  t!iat  iiiten'-ted  us  hotli.  Aiii 
w;i-  ileliglited  that  lie  eould  si;e:ik  Muii;^'iiliaii,  and 
called  him  ainban  and  personally  welcomed  him  to 
Tankar.  He  had  a  large  number  of  men  in  his  caravan, 
home  of  whom  took  up  ([uarters  in  our  drug  room,  while 
the  rcmaimler  with  tin'  horses  wont  to  an  inn.  Dr. 
Ilodin  had  he.inl  of  u>  before  his  arrival.  At  IJayin- 
hoshum,  not  far  beyond  the  Khara  Kottel,  or  Black 
Pass,  a  Tangut  chief  had  told  him  there  was  a  solitary 
Oru^s  or  "  Iiu-~i:iii  lady  at  Tankar.  '''  Russian  '"  is 
the  only  name  by  which  all  Europeans  are  known  in 
Northern  Tibet.  In  his  great  work  "  Through  Asia  " 
Dr.  Iledin  has  given  the  following  account  of  his  recep- 
tion and  visit  at  our  Inunble  home. 

*'  lOarlicr  in  the  day  1  had  .»ent  Parpi  Bai  on  in  ad- 
vance to  take  my  pas.s  to  the  governor  of  the  town. 
That  dignitary  now  mot  us  at  the  gate,  bringing  us  a 
letter  from  tlie  '  I^ns^ian  lady'  with  a  liearly  invita- 
tion to  ?harc  her  hospiiaiity.  I  felt  it  wa>  rather  pre- 
sumptuous to  (piarter  myself  altogether  upon  a  .-olitary 
lady.  Nevertheless  I  decided,  perhaps  it  was  curiosity 
drove  mo,  at  any  rate  to  go  and  pay  her  a  visit.  Wheu 


WITH  Till-:  TIBKTAXS 


I  reuclifd  thu  liou^o  indicuted,  u  good  Chinese  house 
witli  au  obKing  lourtyard,  I  was  met  by  a  bareheaded 

vining  lady  wi  ariuy  >|>c(  tarlo  and  drosrd  after  the 
(  hiiu'so  iiianiKT.  SIil-  uskud  lue  in  a  I'rit'ntlly  tone, 
'Do  you  speak  English?"  I  toUl  her  yes,  1  thought 
so.  and  very  stou  our  tongues  were  going  at  express 
siH'Cil.  She  inl  roducrd  Iht-cU"  as  Mrs.  Klicinliard 
(Kijnharl )  an  Anirru  an  doi  tnr  nicdit  inc.  Hi  r  h\\>- 
band  was  the  Dulcli  uiissionaiy,  .Mr.  Khtinhard,  wlio 
fully  a  month  earlier  had  started  for  Peking  with  (.'apt. 
Wellby,  who  \va.>  on  li;-  way  Iioinc  from  his  journry 
across  Tilict.  Mr.-.  I'luiidiaiil  wa-  the  jR'rsoniiic-ai loii 
of  hospitality  and  aniialulily.  U  was  (piite  a  plea?ure 
to  talk  to  somebody  whose  iiitercsts  ranged  Iwyond 
trras<  and  pa-tun  s,  dan^^crous  passes,  wild  yaks,  eattle 
and  ,-liri'p.  llcr  liu>l)and's  iinirage  in  vcMittirin;^'  to 
Irdvo  her  lieliind  aiune  among  the  rabble  of  'I'ankar 
truly  asttmished  me.  But  there  was  not  so  much  dan- 
ger, perhaps,  al'irr  all  ;  (nv  ilnou-h  her  medical  knowl- 
edge and  >kill  Ml-,  li'lii  inhard  had  won  several  friends 
among  the  ]iati\e  population."* 

The  Chinese  ollicials  in  Eastern  Turkestan  had 
shown  him  niarkcd  courtesy,  and  he  had  expected  the 
.-anie  fr"in  \\\n-r  in  ihc  inuiis  of  Wc.-lcrn  Ciiina,  liul 
founil  It  altngetiicr  lacking,  I  believe,  iiccau.-e  the  .Mon- 
gols who  announced  his  arrival  had  called  him  amhaii, 
while  liis  passport  was  almost  the  same  as  a  mission- 
ary's: the  ntlicial  was  (piick  t<>  appreciate  the  fact 
that  (  apt.  Wellby  luul  a  much  better  pas.sport  than 


*  "  Through  Asia,"  by  Sven  Iledia,  a  Volt ,  Harper  &  Bros.,  Vol.  II.,  pp, 

nj6-7. 


l)|STIN(JriSHKI>  VISITORS 


161 


Dr.  I  It'll  ill.  tl  loiifjli  tlio  liitttT  was  entitled  lo  uiic  of 
higliir  liiiik.  Mciii^^  iliat  King  Omar  was  pertfonally  in- 
tc'iv^trd  in  tlic  cxiiiilil Mil.  Iii-t('ii(l  iif  coining  (d  call 
on  tlir  t ravt'li  r,  the  ollii  ial  iginircd  his  projcnoo  in 
Tankar  and  Dr.  lledin  w«^nt  liiniMjlf  to  call  on  the 
tintf,  but  there  were  no  big  guns  fired  in  his  honor  as 
there  Iiad  hccn  in  Tiirkc.-tati, 

'I'Ik'  Killing  were  aiixinu.-  \<<  learn  how  near  he  had 
been  to  Lhasa,  .--o  Lo.-ang  Kinduiii  eanio  around  wilh 
his  prayer-wheel  in  one  hand,  to  ask  particulars,  and 
as  a  result  Dr.  lledin  \  i-ited  him  in  ihe  e\ciiiii;.r.  to  Inr 
some  curio-,  (loth,  lioot-.  etc..  ni  which  ihi'  LiishoLs 
have  .such  large  <|uanl itie^-.  selling  them  as  they  do  Tor 
the  Dalai  Lama.  In  Dr.  Iledin's  book  "  Through  Asia  " 
he  .-peaks  of  iliis  tran>aetion  as  his  hnying  some  of  the 
goods  intended  for  trilmle.  and  that  the  F,ni|ieror  would 
that  lime  receive  le>s  than  had  l)een  intended  for  him. 
The  goods  did  belong  perhaps  to  the  Dalai  I^ma,  hut 
v.ere  for  trade,  not  for  |)rc.-enlat ion  to  the  Emperor  as 
Irihiile.  and  it  is  possilile  thai  those  parti(  nlar  articles 
I'elongetl  to  Losang  Kimlum  himself,  for  even  a  servant 
••oming  from  Lhasa  docs  on  his  own  account  a  little 
iiadi',  and  the  profits  of  that  deal  were  boasted  of  by 
th<'  /.■'/.MM//,'  for  a  Ion<^  tune  a fleru ard~. 
^laving  a  desire  to  see  Kumhum,  Dr.  lledin  .-laved 
only  a  short  time  in  Tankar  and  upon  his  departure  I 
-ent  my  m  rvant  with  him,  with  instructions  to  visit 
Mina  Fnyeh.  present  him  a  and  say  that  Dr. 

lledin  wished  to  visit  the  temple-,  and  that  any  kind- 
ness ho  showed  him  would  be  appreciatetl.  Just  before 
his  departure  two  runners  from  the  yamen  came  and 


162 


WITH  TIIK  TiniorAXS 


offered  their  service?,  hnt  Dr.  Ileiliu  was  iudignaut  ami 
sent  word  tliiuuuli  tluiii  to  tlifir  olliciul  that  la-  had  a 
good  revolver  vAi'nh  Iw  IkmI  iiUriidrd  lo  him,  but  he 
Mould  not  do  so.  autl  he  wouhl  luorcoviT  report  to  IVkin 
his  lack  of  courtesy  to  him,  a  stranger  in  Tankar.  The 
men  kotourJ,  went  away,  but  >'i()n  n  tunicd.  As  the 
ciiraviin  \v:is  Iriuiiijx  our  gatr,  l)r.  Ucdin  told  his  treas- 
urer to  give  Aui  four  huudreil  eash.  The  old  woman 
was  delighted;  it  is  certain  she  will  never  forget  tlie 
great  white  ttinhan,  and  if  her  n  i.-lies  for  jirosiK-nty  and 
prac"  were  of  any  avail  surely  In  ni'.i>t  lri\e  had  a 
eliai  ine  i  life  ever  .-inte.  1!  on  hi.s  return  to  tiio 
Ts"aidam  last  year  he  [)a.->ed  through  Tankar,  as  he 
most  proliahly  would,  Ani,  if  she  heard  of  his  coming, 
did  not  fail.  1  am  sure,  to  give  him  a  in  arty  weh  oni''. 

My  next  \i-itor,  quite  ;;s  distingui>hed  in  his  way. 
was  a  lama.  \  year.-  of  age,  a  "  living  luiddlui  "  named 
Tsanga  Fuyeh.  Having  read  tlie  (Josix'ls  of  >rark  and 
John  wliitli  we  had  given  a  young  friend  of  his.  lie  de- 
sired, he  said,  to  see  tlu'  people  from  wii.  .-i  the  liooI;> 
had  come.  He  was.  ar-  far  as  we  eould  afterwards  learn, 
a  pure  living  man.  and  he  looked  it.  Inviting  him  with 
great  ceremony  to  take  Xxu  place  npon  the  k'nun  in 
tlie  gu<"-t-rooni.  1  gave  him  lea.  bread,  houili'i  a'nl 
butter.  He  had  evitlently  made  up  iii>  mind  thai  we 
foreign  teachers  were  different  from  ordinary  beings, 
for  he  was  as  mueh  surprised  as  delighted  wlim  he 
found  w.>  w.mld  eal  TilM  tan  meat  ami  iuitter.  ami  made 
u-  a  pre.-i'iit  of  a  leg  of  mutton  and  >oiue  pears,  accom- 
panied by  a  thuta.  promising  to  supplt  njcnt  these  gifts 
by  some  sheep's  butter  when  lie  returned  to  his  people, 


DISTIXOUISHED  VISITORS  163 


and  he  kept  his  promi?o.   The  old  buddha  was  much 

iiitcn-tcrl  in  ()\ir  iiicdiciil  ~kill.  ii>ked  for  some  eye  inedi- 
I  I  lie  I'nr  liiiiiselt',  and  iii(|iiircd  alxnit  our  al)ilitv  to  liclp 
a  relative  who  liad  a  tumor.    A  month  or  !>o  hiter  wiien 
Mr.  Rijnhart  had  returned,  the  "relative,"  a  rather 
voim<:  wiiiiiaii,  came  in,  aocomjianicd  by  her  husband. 
Instead  of  a  tumor,  we  found  the  patient  sulTerinf^ 
from  a'ldo.'ninal  droii^y.  and  were  able  to  relieve  htLiUi- 
modiaUly  \>\  lappiiifr.    She  and  her  husband  rented  a 
room,  the  only  one  tliey  could  procure,  about  eight  feet 
'|Uare.  with  no  window;  and  the  woman  lay  on  the 
l>  '(iiig,  with  a  pack  .<addle  for  a  pillow,  as  contented  as 
pos.^ible.   Her  husband  was  one  of  those  cheery,  good 
natured  men  one  does  not  often  see  the  like  of.  Ho 
lifoiiirlit  us  presents,  imitated  our  I'ln^zlish.  made  friends 
wiih  Top.sy,  the  door-keeper,  to  such  an  extent  that 
she  would  let  him  out  without  any  remarks  of  di.<ip- 
proval.  but  he  could  not  induce  her  to  lot  him  in  with- 
out some  member  of  the  hoiiM'hold  restraining  her.  On 
i!h'  whole,  he  enjoyed  u>  ju-t  a-  unirh  a>  we  did  him 
and  perliaps  a  little  m<>!'e,  seeing  that  we  were  a  tritio 
cleaner  than  he  was.    Among  these  TilxHans  there  is 
a  pieiiliar  custom  we  only  learned  after  close  contact 
"  nil  them.    When  anyone  is  ill  one  of  tlie  nieinlie'  -  of 
th<-  family  goes  to  a  liima.  gives  him  a  1,-liatii.  tell.-  him 
altout  the  sick  one,  and  asks  him  what  mamba  is  to  be 
consulted.    The  lama  accepts  the  khnta.  throws  dice, 
to  indicite  a  eenain  page  in  a  sacred  !)ook  which 
IS  turned  up,  whereupon  the  name  of  the  mumba  is 
announced.  Tsanga  Fuyeh  was  the  lama  to  whom  they 
wont  for  this  knowledge,  and  after  his  relative  was 


164 


WITH  THK  TIBKTAXS 


cured  by  tapping,  he  would  send  every  one  to  us  for 

1  rcaliiirnt.    We  Iiad  never  ■.u>ji(  i  tcl  that  nnr  names 

Wcfc  !'i'(  (i|<lril  ill  lllc  >a(  r'  <l  lMinl<>  of  Bll(lillu.-«UI  I 

The  new  -  (•(  tin-  \vunian">  (  lire  spreatl  far  westward 
among  the  Kuko-nor  Tibetans,  and  Tsan^ra  Fuyeh  did 
not  cease  to  sound  our  praise^.  A-  j  n  -ult  iien|ih'  larno 
in  I'ri'iM  ili-lanee-  reiniiri!i;^  iwriity  ihi\-  i>ii  hnr-cliack. 
'I'iii-  iiiiuh  \va.-  ainusing:  aiivnne  wiio  had  a  pain  of 
any  kind  in  the  rogitm  of  the  stonuul>  wanted  to  !•»• 
"  tapped,"  for  the  Tilx'tans  reason  that  wliat  i-  ^'mxl 
fur  line  <i(k  person  is  etnially  i^noil  fcir  aimthi'r  I  I 
liad  also  to  lie  -peeiaily  l  arefiil  to  give  explicit  directions 
alMrtit  taking  medicine,  as  another  of  their  maxims  was 
"if  a  little  medicine  is  good,  a  hirge  (|iiantity  innst  lie 
so  niiuh  hettcr,"  and  tiny  wmild  -ualhiw  a  ulmle  li.il- 
tle  of  liipiid  or  lio\  (if  pills  at  a  single  duse.  i'"re(piently 
also  they  ate  the  pajters  in  which  the  j)i)wders  were 
wrapped,  tliinking  tiiat  if  the  tn(  Ii( me  inside  the  papers 
was  g0()d,  there  certainly  al-o  \ia\A  he  sonic  virtue  in 
the  pajH-r.  The  visit  of  'I'sanga  Kuyeii  and  the  not  )- 
rietv  it  gave  us  among  the  nomads  of  the  grass  country 
prepared  the  wav,  as  ..ill  he  sdii,  for  further  trips 
into  the  gr.i~s  cdiinlry,  and  later  into  the  great  hcvoiid. 

.\Ir.  Wijidiarl's  return  from  the  jonriiey  to  I'ekin 
was  hailed  by  the  natives  with  delight,  espei  ially  by 
the  kopa:*,  who  came  to  bid  him  welcome  home,  bringing 
a  hlindi  and  large  pitc  -  of  meat,  Munctinie^  as  much 
as  half  a  Anvp.  Siiuiily  after  iiis  return  the  (piestion 
of  servant-  was  settled,  for  we  s^ecured  the  wrvices  of 
^[ohammed  Jiahim.  the  third  of  Capt.  Wellby's  men 
that  had  reached  Tankar  in  safety.     He  had  been 


DlSTlN'cnSHKD  VISITORS 


1U5 


awa\  ill  tlu'  <rra-s  (iiuMtrv  lu'rJing  flocks  ami  cat- 
tli.  that  wiicii  |)r.  Svcii  llcdiii  appcari'tl,  ho  iiuskmI 
lit  ing  taivcii  iiii  witli  his  lufii  ami  i«o  I'ouml  him-st'lf  ulout- 
in  Tankar.  He  came  to  us  and  a  very  valuable  serv- 
ant he  [inu-'il  til  lie.  witli  the  fault  of  a  hasty  temper 
w!ii(h  nri  i!-iunally  would  p't  him  into  trouttle. 

\Vf  l:ad  ill  Uii'  njiiirr  of  our  courtyard  a  sciuaru  tiower 
pardon,  where  we  coaxed  sotne  native  flowers  resem- 
bling yellow  jioppies,  marigolds  and  asters  to  bloom  with 
our  own  vioK'ts,  nasturtium.-  and  swcft  jwas,  which 
jrave  our  lioinc  a  delightful  whil!  of  old-fashioned  far 
away  gardens  in  the  homeland;  many  a  time  we  wovii'' 
sit  on  the  little  stone  fence  about  the  flowers,  and,  look- 
ing' down  into  the  depths  of  the  hh)ssoms,  see  pietured 
tln  re  fiice-  of  ln\ed  ones  far  awjiy.  made  happier  by 
>unny,  brij^lit  letter-  from  tlie  'I'lbetan  border.  The 
blooming  of  each  nc\v  flower  was  for  us  a  visitor,  each 
liiinging  its  tpiota  of  interest  and  elieer.  When  the 
lirst  dark  velvet v  nasturtium  lilo.uned  there  came  to 
our  home  another  blossom,  who  brought  with  him  a 
budget  of  love  and  a  stock  of  sunshine  which  will  re- 
main alwavs.  but  now  niily  in  memory — dear  little 
('iiarles  C'arM>n  Hijnbart.  who  eame  to  u>  on  June  ,']<Mh. 

Ani  had  anticipated  the  event  with  a  large 
amount  of  talk  and  wonderment  at  the  preparation^ 
I  was  inakintr.  She  told  me  that  among  the  nomad-s 
the  niotlierV  i>nly  beil  is  one  made  of  the  ])owdeici! 
excreta  of  sheep,  and  that  when  the  weather  is  warm 
the  little  one  is  pasted  with  butter  and  put  out  to 
bask  in  the  sun.  If  medical  science  is  needed,  none  is 
to  be  had,  nature  alone  is  to  be  depended  upon ;  and  yet 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


(    none  is  sntijifietl.  an  no  one  hns  lonmed  that  in  other 

countries  tilings  arc  difTerent.  Win  n  ihr  tub  of  wann 
watt'i  was  liroii-ht  in  (hiilv  for  tlu'  ImiIi  mid  Iim'iv  was 
l-iii  iuto  it.  Ani  and  D'Mua  I^f  kcd  upon  it  all  a>  an  at-t 
of  almost  ct  rtain  insanity,  tlioiiffh  Mw.  Ridley,  who  was 
lu  h  iiic-tinialilf  iu'lp  to  ii-.  lui.l  lieen  doing  the  sanio 
liiinu  lor  liiT  two  (l';ir  lit'I"  cliildron  and  no  harm 
liad  ri->ultLHl.  Tlio  naliv.  s  do  not  allow  a  .*tranper  to 
approach  the  mother  tintil  forty  day*  after  the  birth 
of  a  child,  owin^'  to  hih  -ii|m  r-i  ii  ion  ,  and  the  mother 
L'oc-  out  one  'iimdrcd  days  after  it.  sn  that  rvcrvono  was 
ania/.i'd  to  s*r  us  al)out  tlic  iiiiddU'  of  Au;,'ust.  goin<i 
horseback  on  a  journox  i   the  south  of  the  Koko-nor. 

Mohnmnu'd  I'ahim.  lu'iiccforth  to  he  kiniwii  a-  Haliim. 
\v;i-:  hiiliv"~  di'liLjlil.  and  li'iina  ua<  not  at  all  plca-t'd  that 
sill'  was  not  hxilNi'd  on  with  as  .nuch  favor  as  tlii'  dark- 
faced  Ijoy,  who  would  walk  up  and  down  the  courtyard 
carrying  the  precious  burden,  singing'  weird  Hindustani 
and  l.adaki  airs,  ami  rvcn  the  Briti>h  huLdc  rail  which 
he  had  Icarnod  in  India.  There  is  surh  a  tlilTcrcncc  1k'- 
t\ve(>n  Tibetan  and  white  children,  the  former  having 
ajipan^ntly  scarcely  any  nerve  tissue  and  showing  so 
little  intcr'^st  and  viva'itv.  and  f^ioi^di  hahv  was  only 
an  ordinarv  child,  ho  wa^  in  the  eves  of  the  natives  a 
;:rcat  curiosity ;  they  considered  him  exceeding 
^mart  to  "  notice  things,"  and  in  comparison  to  theirs 
he  certainly  was.  The  twcntv  dav-  ninntig  tlio  nomads 
in  Augu-it.  to  ho  described  in  ttio  next  rhapter,  were 
very  rnjoyahle  ami  will  never  be  forgotten  by  those 
nativa  vvho  came  into  contaot  with  us.  They  would 
come  in  on  npt.ie  with  th'ir  tongues  protruding,  to 


DlSTIN^a  iSlIKI)  VISITOKS  1G7 

-tantl  and  gaze  upon  Charles  aMeep  in  hi^  hammock 

wiiijiii)}^  bftuifii  till'  tent  pole,"-,  iind  hold  up  both 
tliiiiiili-  iiml  pui  tlic  tonfru*'  nut  -till  fuiilicr  if  ;ui»aihl(\ 
its  a  tnkcii  o{  approijatiitii.  Wiuii  lii>  l»alli  time  tanu' 
anil  the  tent  door  was  cIoskmI  on  aecount  of  the  draught, 
the  woiiion  and  nu  n  tun  would  run  to  nur  tent,  pick 
the  tlaji  anmnd  lln'  Imttotn  and  llu'  wlidlr  ii|MTtiin' 
wuiiid  Ih'  lillcd  with  dark  fact'.-  and  lan;j;hiii;;  lilai-k  i-vrs, 
while  they  watched  the  pcrfi)rmanoe  iiit<Testinfi;  to  them 
and  enjoyable  to  Charles.  Such  remarks  as  the  foUow- 
Imlt  were  cnnmioii:  *"  Wliite  hild."  "Sec  Ikt  put 
liiin  into  the  water,"  "  He  will  di«-.  and  "  Why  doc-  -lie 
n<tt  pa.-tf  him  with  liiiltrr  and  put  liiiii  out  ui  tlic  ^un  ?  " 
TilK'tan  children  living  in  the  tents  are  exports  at  rid- 
ing.', jinnping  on  the  harks  of  liorscs  and  fvcii  cows 
and  runiiiii"^  d -wn  hill  at  fnll  speed.  They  are  in 
sunny  warm  weather  to  he  seen  playing  about  the  tent,^ 
with  only  a  string  of  something  that  serves  as  a  eliarin 
around  the  neck,  with  i^rhaps  a  tiny  bell,  added  to  the 
eoveriiiL'  nature  her-(df  gave  thmi.  'riu  u  nve>  are  des- 
tilutr  1)1'  plea>ures,  for  tluy  lui'.e  no  pl.iyihiii^'s,  no 
candy,  fruit,  or  cake,  whuh  children  m  tin-  hind  and 
even  in  China  have  in  such  abundance.  They  are  not 
loved  and  .  uddk'<l  the  way  diildrcn  arc  in  the  liunie- 
land.  and  (d'teiilinie-  the  calves  and  fawns  tied  to  the 
po-t  in  the  lent  receive  mure  attention  than  the  hairnie!*. 

Shortly  after  we  were  settled  in  Tankar  Mr.  liijn- 
hart  went  down  to  Sining  and  had  his  bicycle  brought 
up  the  mountainous  road.  As  riding  from  Sining  to 
Tankar  was  impossible,  it  was  necessary  for  a  man  to 


MICROCOPY  RESOLUTION  TEST  CHART 

ANSI  and  ISO  TEST  CHART  No  2 


^    /1PPLIED  IIV1/1GE  he 


1 0  ■!  WTTTT  TTTK  TIBETANS 


cnrrv  it  on  liis  imc-k.  This  woiiilerful  •'  one  man  cart 
(the  literal  translation  of  the  name  the  natives  gave  it) 
will  never  be  forgotten  by  the  people,  and  though  very 
niucli  intt'n-tcd  in  it>  iiu'i  lianisni  not  ono  of  tlicni  eoiild 
*'ver  lie  imhici'd  to  mnntit  A>  fnr  ;i-  real  usr  in  travel- 
ing wa?  concerned  it  \va?  nil,  but  Pibetant-  came  in 
large  numbers  wanting  to  see  it,  and  we  were  glad  to 
have  such  a  powerful  magnet  attracting  tlie  people  to 
us  almost  daily,  thus  enlarging  the  circle^  of  our 
acqnaintance  and  usefulness.  To  satisfy  them  Mr. 
IJijnhart  gave  exiiibilions.  Crowds  of  people  came  to 
witness  the  "  foreign  teacher "  ride  on  "  the  one  man 
cart."  The  great  diirieulty  was  to  keep  the  men  ami 
bovs  from  following  too  clo.scly.  as  if  any  accident  should 
happen,  the  rider  was  in  danger  of  being  tramped  upon 
by  the  multitude  behind.  Outside  the  east  gate  was  a 
decline,  and  they  never  ceased  commenting  upon  the 
speed  witli  wliici'.  the  bieyele  would  "  run  "  down  that 
hill  "  faster  than  the  In^st  hor.-e."  ^fy  sewing  machine 
also  attracted  its  share  of  attention  and  was  called  the 
"  iron  tailor,"  one  woman  even  going  so  far  as  to  come 
to  inquire  if  it  were  true  that  when  I  finished  sew- 
ing T  carried  him  tn  ihf  kitdirii,  ]iiit  him  on  ihc  tabl.' 
and  he  madf  food  for  us?  Poor  T.liotan  women  and 
often  men  would  give  me  a  small  piece  of  cloth  and  ask 
me  to  make  it  into  a  bag,  that  they  might  take  it  home 
to  show  their  mothers  what  wond(>rful  sewing  it  did. 
By  degrees  we  had  won  a-;  many  friends  in  Tankar  as 
in  Kninbum  and  Lusar,  besides  we  had  gathered  a 
fund  of  information  about  the  nomads  of  the  grass 


DlSTTNTiFTSHED  VISITORS 


169 


coiiiiti  v.  Our  liiiini'  and  \V(  rl<  wore  known  among  thorn 
many  day-"  journoy  west  and  sonth,  and  the  Scriptures 
we  had  ii  away  to  visitoi-  were  being  read  in  dis- 
trict.-; to  whieh  we  aever  yet  had  gone. 


CHAPTER  X 


AMOXO  TIIK  TAXdlTS  OF  THE  KOKO-N-OIJ 

'J'angut  Ciii-tom? — J.uii'Ufy  to  iIk  Koko-nor — N'otiiadic 
Tent-Life— A  (iliiupso  of  tlie  iUiie  Lakt— Kobber.— 
Distributing  Gospels. 

Xever  since  our  memorable  attempt  to  reacli  the 
Koko-nor  under  the  guidance  of  Ishinima,  had  we  given 
lip  tlif  project  of  visitiii";  tliat  wondrous  hike,  not  merely 
Ijci-aiise  of  tiio  pleasure  ue  anticipated  at  gaziiiir  auaiii 
on  an  extensive  body  af  water,  but  rather  to  spy  out  the 
ooimtry,  get  better  acquainted  with  the  nomads  in  their 
temporary  scltlciuciits,  tiistrilmte  cojiies  of  the  Gospels, 
l)r('ac]i  the  doctrine,  ami  ascertain  tlie  ]irospects  and 
po>sibilitie.s  of  future  missionary  work  among  them. 
These  nomads,  called  Tanguts,  or  Koko-nor  Tibetans, 
who  frequently  visited  us  at  Tankar,  talked  about  the 
lake  continually  and  suj-plied  us  with  niiiiute  informa- 
tion as  to  the  nature  of  the  country  through  which  we 
should  pass.  We  had  become  so  well  acquainted  with 
the  Tanguts  that,  although  we  know  most  of  them  were 
roI)bers.  we  lost  all  fear  of  them.  Their  costume  con- 
sists of  the  ordinary  sheepskin  gown  worn  with  the 
woolly  side  next  the  body,  high  top-boots  and  some- 
times a  hat  with  a  peaked  crown  surmounted  by  a  red 

170 


'l  iii;  'i".\x<;r'rs  of  tiik  koko  noi:  171 


ta.SM'l.  aiitl  iIk'  brim  lined  witli  white  laiiil»si<iii.  'J'lic 
men  iiavo  liaiiging  from  their  girdh's  their  Hint  aud 
tinder,  knife-ca!>c,  powdor-horn,  and,  stuck  through 
the  girdle  from  right  to  left  is  a  sword  encased  in  a 
^lii'ath  made  soniotime>  of  wood.  l)ut  often  of  metal 
inlaid  witii  silver  and  stones.  When  they  are  traveling 
the\  sehloni  take  their  hand  otf  the  hill  of  the  t^word. 
Many  of  them  carr}-  also  guns  and  spears.  All  the 
smaller  baggage,  such  as  the  drinking-bowl,  snuff-box, 
money,  wci^rhing-seales,  ete.,  is  carried  in.-id''  the  blousi'. 
'I'lii  women  could  scarcely  be  llistingui^lu■d  from  the 
men  except  for  the  headdros.  The  hair,  tlnu-oughly 
greased,  is  braided  into  fifty  or  more  small  plaits  which 
are  bound  togethc.  at  the  back  with  wide  strips  of 
clolh  covered  with  shells  ami  beads,  tlie  whole  iveighing 
«'veral  pounds,  extending  below  the  waist  and  -langling 
at  every  step.  The  fashion  of  dressing  the  hair  among 
the  men  varies  in  different  localities.  Some  have  the 
Chinese  (pieue,  otiiers  have  the  front  hair  trimmed 
into  butler-smeared  fringes  aiid  bang-,  while  that  from 
the  back  of  the  head  flies  in  the  wind;  others  have  tiie 
hair,  augmented  by  silk  or  cotton  coils,  wound  round 
the  head  and  adorned  with  rings.  coral>  and  other 
r-tones;  still  others  have  their  heads  utterly  unkempt. 
The  women's  gowns,  like  the  men's,  are  held  by  girdles 
from  which  hang  knives,  needle-cases  and  other  append- 
ages. Both  men  and  women  wear  a  charm-box  around 
the  neck,  containing  a  small  idol,  pieces  of  old  cloth 
and  small  parcels  of  medicine.  The  women  always  wear 
large  earrings  in  both  ears,  and  as  many  rings  on  their 


172 


WITH  Till-:  TI15ETANS 


fiiigtMri  lis  llii'v  tail  priHiuv.  'I'lio  mou  wear  an  earring 
gt'!ioral!y  in  tl    left  far  only. 

As  the  I'lir  arc  wuni  l»y  i\w  'I'aiigiits  I'ltr 

years  and  hathing  is  unknown,  the  odor  of  their  bodii's 
if  dcridcdly  disagrefal)k' ;  in  my  medical  caiiacily  ' 
have  li^'d  lo  come  into  >iich  clox'  cnniMct  willi  tlir 
Tilit'lan  women  as  to  I'crl  po.-it i\ ely  nau-calcd  by  the 
finu'Il,  ae  1  the  liberal  supply  of  vermin  that  sometimes 
wdidd  1)0  on  my  wrist  after  feeling  a  patient's  pul.-c. 
Tliev  seem  to  sulTer  no  di.-conifort  on  acconnt  <i\'  tl'e 
vcriuiii.  They  have  no  desire  to  exterminate  them;  to 
kill  a  louse,  in  fact,  is  regarded  as  a  sin  against  the 
teael  'ngs  of  P.iiddlia.  and  they  rarely  do  kill  tliem  ex- 
cept to  eat  them.  That  I  ha\'e  seen  them  do.  piekin;;' 
them  not  oidy  from  their  own  bodies  but  from  other.-". 

A  visit  from  a  jiarty  of  these  Tangut  Tiix-tans  at 
Tankar  we  always  rcuai'dc(l  of  great  moment,  taking  the 
t  ime  of  every  one  in  t  he  luuiMdndd.  >ome  to  talk  to  t  hem. 
others  to  doctor  the  siek  ones,  as  invarialily  some  of 
them  wanted  medicine;  and  nearly  always  we  gave  them 
some  of  their  mueh-relishcd  brick  tea.  A  call  of  aro 
at  the  door,  i  rush  to  hold  the  (loorkee])er.  our  dog 
Topsy,  a  quick  entrance  of  several  people  with  their 
rustling  leather  gowns,  heavy  boots,  clanging  swords, 
knives  and  women's  headdress  announce  their  coming. 
Then  there  are  holding  out  of  hand?,  the  profuse  salu- 
tations with  cries  of  (linio-dimo-ing,  the  presentation 
of  the  khata,  or  perhaps  a  sheep's  stomach  full  of  sweet 
milk,  or  a  piece  of  butter  drawn  from  the  depth  of  a 
dirty  skin  bag,  with  hands  that  leave  black  mark?  wher- 
ever they  touch,  and  some  cliurina,  all  given  with  lib- 


Tin:  TAXCl  'l'S  OF  'I'll!-:  KOaO-NOU  173 


onilily  ami  ^'cnuiiic  jj^ood  i'ccliii;;,  and  a-(i'i)ti'il  wiili 
tlio  greatest  grace  and  tliankfuliiofs,  bmui?-e  we  Uncw 
thnt  it  was  the  best  thev  coisld  givo.  and  their  hearts 
ranii'  wiili  the  gifts.  The  boy  in  the  meantime  is  busy 
in  till'  !<itcli('!i  prcpnrinir  a  liiiLic  |i(ir  of  tea,  and  soino 
basins  are  filled,  and  nuitli  sniacl-iing  of  lips  and  cliit- 
ter-chatter  shows  the  genuine  enjoyment  with  which  it 
is  partaken  of.  If  there  is  a  man  of  any  social  standing 
aii!(.iiir  tlieni  ho  i>  invited  into  ilic  best  room,  the  one 
lartliest  from  the  entrance,  and  entertained  there.  If 
they  are  ordinary  people  they  are  entertained  in  ilie 
tM>urtyard  with  rugs  spread  on  the  floor,  or  in  the  drtig- 
room 

The  particular  journey  into  the  'i'an^rut  country  of 
which  I  now  write  was  one  we  made  at  the  invitation  of  a 
pamha,  who  requested  us  to  go  and  operate  on  the 
( yes  of  his  aged  father  afflicted  with  cataract.  The 
pnnnka  provided  ns  with  animals  to  carry  owr  suppli(>s, 
whicli  consisted  of  a  tent,  rugs  for  hodding,  two  iron 
pots,  and  a  wooden  basin  for  each  of  us,  a  pair  of  goat- 
skin l)el'ows.  besides  drugs  and  copii'>  of  the  (.'ospels 
f(tr  distribution.  For  food  we  took  plenty  of  dried 
doughstrings,  a  bag  of  roasted  barley  meal,  butter, 
rliurma,  a  half  brick  of  tea,  and  some  hard  baked  bread. 
Bread  taken  on  a  journey  in  this  compact  form  has  the 
advantage  of  being  always  very  palatable,  and  of  re- 
maining good  for  months  if  nuide  well. 

Although  little  Charles  was  only  forty-two  days  old 
it  was  decided  that  I  should  necompany  the  expedition, 
and  the  V2\]\  of  Auaust.  a  luckv  day  in  ilio  estimation 
of  the  natives,  was  li.xcd  for  our  departure.    Early  iu 


174 


W  i  l  li  nil:  TIBETANS 


the  inoniing  the  iKutaka  caiuc  to  our  ^'atc  with  two 
fine  yak  and  it  was  not  long  until  we  joined  ihc  caravan, 
which  consisted  altogether  of  nine  yak  and  one  horse, 
laden  with  stores,  and  five  ponies  with  their  riders,  our 
paiial-a,  a  mfdital  ]•  ■.  and  hi-  Cliiiu-e  Ixwkkc'prr. 
nahim  our  Ladaki  ant.  Mr.  Eijuliart  and  invsdl'. 
Mr.  Rijnharr  carr'.^a  bahy,  while  Topsy  with  wagging' 
tail  ran  between  the  horsos'  feet  as  excited  as  if  she  toi» 
had  visions  of  tlio  Blue  Lake. 

Aliiiut  five  miles  west  of  Taiikar,  wc  fordtid  the  lisi- 
ho  (Western  Kiver)  and  turning  so'  west  entered  the 
Ra-la  valley,  in  which  we  passed  a  einall  lamasery  of 
the  same  name,  containing  about  two  hundred  priests. 
At  ahout  .■■)  p.  m.  we  rcaehed  the  limit  of  eultivated 
fields  and  having  met  some  caravans  of  merehants  on 
their  way  to  Tankar  with  wool  and  barley,  camped  with 
them  for  the  night,  continuing  our  journey  on  the  fol- 
lowing morning  into  the  western  wilderness,  leaving 
every  trace  of  the  work  of  man's  hand  behind.  Wc  had 
not  gone  far  when  one  of  the  yak  fell  down  ill,  and,  as 
the  Tibetans  would  not  think  of  leaving  the  animal  in 
its  sad  condition,  the  whole  eara\an  was  obliged  to 
pitch  tents  and  wait  until  he  either  recovered  or  died. 
While  wc  prei)arcd  a  fire  and  boiled  some  tea,  the  lama 
doctor,  seeing  an  opportunity  to  prove  his  skill,  undt-r- 
look  to  restore  the  animal  to  its  wonted  vigor.  While 
murmuring  low  incantations  he  drew  his  sword  and 
kept  patting  the  animal's  back  and  sides  with  it,  all 
the  while  marching  round  it  and  from  time  to  time 
offering  prayers.  Xow  and  then  he  threw  a  handful  of 
road  dust  on  its  head  and  back.    Suddenly  the  incan- 


THE  J'A.NCiLTS  OF  THE  IvOKO-NOK  175 


<;iti<>ii>  (Cii.-cil.  and  the  iKinal-a  was  ilinvtcd  to  secure 
;i  (Irv  licrl),  twist  it  into  two  pyramids  and  setting  fire 
to  tiiein,  put  one  up  each  of  the  yai<"i=  nostril;^.  This 
(lone,  the  incantations  were  resumed  until  finally  the 
yak  gave  a  vi;,'orous  i^ick  and  th<'  Imly  lan  came  to  join 
us  at  our  lire,  having  i omlnded  that  his  work  was 
done,  or  that  there  was  no  u>e  continuing  any  longer^ 
As  wo  thought  of  the  night  coming  on,  we  fervently 
witihed  the  animal  would  take  a  sudden  change  one  way 
or  the  other.  Looking  about  for  a  suitable  place  to 
pitch  our  tent,  and  trying  to  get  reconciled  to  the  idea 
of  passing  the  night  in  tha,  robber-infested  district, 
Mr.  Rijnhart  cast  another  look  .t  the  animal  and  found 
lie  had  ceased  to  breathe,  so  that  we  were  now  .iMc  to 
l)roccctl.  The  la:na  had  given  us  reason  to  l)elie\c  that 
this  district  full  of  gullies  and  crevices,  favorite  hiding- 
places  for  thieves,  was  particularly  dangerous,  and  wo 
were  all  glad  to  leave  it.  At  3  p.  m.  we  crossed  the 
lia-la,  a  very  high  mountain  pass,  frjin  Mhich  we  got 
sight  of  the  Koko-nor.  blue  indeed  and  glittering  in  the 
bright  sun.  The  Ra-la  mountains  are  rich  in  iron  and 
there  is  every  indication  of  the  presence  of  more  pre- 
cious metal.  That  night  we  encamped  with  another 
caravan  of  Tibetans,  keeping  watch  during  the  night, 
as  much  for  fear  of  them  as  of  the  attacks  of  brigands. 
These  panaka  dwelling  south  of  the  lake  have  all  more 
or  loss  the  appearance  of  thieves  and  robbers,  and  con- 
sidering this,  it  is  amusing  to  witness  one  of  their  cus- 
toms. As  soon  as  a  caravan  stops,  two  or  three  of  the 
men  boil  the  tea,  while  others  unload  tlie  yn'  When 
the  tea  is  boiling,  all  are  called  around  the  lire.  One 


176 


WITH  Tin;  Tir.K'I  ANS 


of  (liciii  tlin)V.>  ii  Miiiill  hiiii|i  of  Imtii  r  into  tlif  tci, 
takes  till'  ladle,  liips  it  out,  and  tlnovN>  it  with  a  little 
tea  towards  the  sky.  Then  all  take  off  thoir  hats  and 
join  the  man  who  sprinkled  the  tea  in  a  kiml  of  prayer, 
while  tlie  latter  twice  a^'ain  ilips  out  tea  and  throws  it 
up.  The  ten  is  oflered  to  a  god,  and  the  prayer  invites 
him  to  come  and  drink  it,  asking  him  to  keep  them 
from  sickness,  to  give  them  peace  on  the  road,  and  to  let 
11x111  meet  with  only  <rno(l,  lionest  people.  After  tlie 
tea  is  linished  llie  same  prayer  is  said  again  while  one 
man  turns  out  he  remaining  tea  and  all  the  leaves  hy 
the  side  of  the  camp  fire, 

Karly  the  following  morning  wc  erossed  the  >an(l  liill> 
liy  wliieh  t'  e  lake  is  lined,  after  wliieh  we  followed  tiie 
shore,  over  a  mile  from  the  water's  edge.  Here  was 
most  beautiful  pasture  ground,  gradually  ascending 
from  the  \\ater  and  towering  some  three  to  live  miles 
otT  into  lofty  mountain*,  eovered  with  the  finest  grass. 
Until  noon  we  saw  no  tents  and  then  only  far  out  of 
our  way.  We  stopj)ed  at  Tso-nitag  ("  The  Lake's 
Xeck")  where  we  were  visited  by  some  Tibi-tans,  to 
whom  we  talked  while  tea  was  being  prepared  ;  in  the 
(listanee  we  saw  a  large  caravan,  recognized  as  belong- 
ing to  the  Kambas,  a  wild  tribe  of  Tibetans  living  far- 
ther in,  the  same  barbarians  by  wnom  the  Irench  trav- 
elers, Dufreiiil  de  Khiiis  and  Cirenard,  were  attaeked, 
and  the  former  killed,  about  four  years  previous.  But 
they  stayed  far  from  us,  continuing  their  march.  On 
the  slopes  of  the  mountains  we  saw  herds  of  antelopes, 
here  and  tlicre  a  stray  wolf,  and  a  numher  of  white- 
headed  eagles ;  also  a  large  species  of  hawk.   The  lake- 


THE  TAX(irT.S  OF  TIIK  KOKO-XOIJ  177 


nidi'  Wilts  lilorally  covuivd  with  diaks,  gi  >'so,  jihcl'ii.iki's 
and  buhianis.  Our  senant  shot  a  gooso,  but  as  it  tasted 
80  much  like  sea-water,  it  was  uneatable.  In  some  parts 
tbc  <,'rimn(l  was  full  df  holt  .-,  in  wliicl:  live  lizards,  a 
fiiiall,  white  bird,  ami  a  s|K'ties  of  l;;i,'oiii\ >,  all  very 
plentiful.  During  the  night  there  fill  in  the  valley 
copious  rains,  which  thc-chill  air  of  the  high  altitudes 
turned  into  >now,  tluii  witli  tiie  CDniing  day  \vr  >i\w 
tlie  niountain-  covcrci!  v  iih  ihcir  jili-tciiitiL'  whilr  maii- 
th".  It  \va-  ill'  Ultli  of  Aiigu-t  when  we  nachcd  the 
/jnnal-a'x  camp,  two  hundred  yard*  from  the  water's 
(il;:e.  It  iiiehnled  six  lt'iit<  situafcil  close  togdiicr, 
while  niaiiv  others  were  visible  further  down  the  sh<)re. 
A.-  we  approached  the  tents  a  pat  k  of  al)out  twenty 
of  the  fiercest  dogs  Imaginable  surrounded  us,  and  with 
hideous  yelping  sought  to  drag  us  from  (Uir  poaie>, 
licing  prevented  from  aecomplishing  their  object  only 
by  the  arrival  of  some  of  the  tent  people  who  suli- 
dued  them  with  stout  clubs.  After  dismounting  wc 
\vere  led  to  a  tent  and  asked  to  sit  down  on  some  rugs 
lieside  a  rude  furnace  ii  dc  of  mud  and  stones.  A 
handful  of  ihitnna  and  i)arley  meal  was  put  into  a 
basin,  tea  poured  upon  it  and  a  largo  lump  of  butter 
added,  the  whole  being  stirred  up  and  handed  to  us 
v.ith  a  ]>olite  request  that  wo  refrc.-h  ourselves  with  a 
drink,  while  our  own  tent  wa>  being  erected. 

The  tents  are  made  of  woolen  stuff,  manufactured  by 
the  inhabitants.  Inside  are  four,  or  sometimes  five, 
[Hilcs  over  whicb  the  ropes  run  that  hold  up  the  tent, 
while  out-ido  there  are  also  poles  to  hold  the  same 
ropes  tight.    The  tents  which,  when  viewed  from  the 


r.8  U  l  I  il  I  IlK  ril;i.  I 

'iiii-i(|f.  iT-i  nililr  liiiu'c  ppitU'rs,  arc  iii\,iri,ilil  lilm  k, 
till'  iiilialjitaiil>  llKTi'l"i)rL'  oftoii  bciii^x  ralKtl  "  I'.Iai  k 
'I'ibotans'."  In  the  crntcr  of  tin-  cIdIIi  of  the  tciit  a 
narrow  strip  is  left  o\mi  nc  an  oxit  for  tlie  snioko 
aK'riidiii;^  froiii  lln'  tciiiMnrarv  runiacc  bclnw  it,  ul.idi 
ilividfs  tliL'  triit  iiil'i  t\\(i  part-.  'I'n  tlic  riijlil  nf  ihis 
fiiniacc  is  till'  [ila^L'  ul'  liuuur;  in  ii  gut>tf  nrc  roft-ivt'il, 
and  at  night  the  men  sk-ep  tiiero.  'I'hi-  lef'-hand  side 
is  ()f(ii|)i(d  liv  llic  woiiK'ii.  ciiildi-cn.  and  in  this  case 
soMif  little  •^iiu'  and  Vdim-'  dirr.  'I'hc  fir-t  iiiizlit  wlidc 
\vp  ucri'  a>lri'it  ill  our  tent,  a  hu.uv  doj;-  ciilcivd  and 
carriod  away  onr  f-andicstick  and  ramlli'  (a  lionic-niade 
one  (d"  iiiiilton   fat),   Mr.   Kijnliarl"-  iiat   as  well  as 

llli'  IIH'-lt   hi'  cnidd  i:i't.     'I'll,    caildlr- 1  u  k  \\r  did  nut 

liiid  for  days  altrruards  and  llic  meal  nut  at  all,  lliuiiidi 
till'  hat  was  not  far  away,  hnt  the  incident  induced 
IJaliiiii  to  lian^  up  nearly  everything  to  the  crosslx'ani 
id'  till'  tent  dnriii^x  the  reinaindiT  id'  Miir  >tav. 

The  .Sidilli  Kuku-iiur  'J'ihetans  are  un  tlu'  whole  jovial, 
and  roars  of  laugliter  and  merry  song  are  not  uncommon 
in  their  eiieampni'^nts.  Musical  instruments  are.  how- 
e\(T.  not  found  among  thi-in  exeept  the  drum  and  cvm- 
i)als.  Their  needs  are  few,  and  apparenth'  tliev  are 
contented,  each  having  his  one  or  two  garnieius,  a 
matchlock,  sword,  flint  and  steel,  a  wooden  Imsin,  knife 
am]  ehojisticks  (the  latter  less  needful,  the  fingers  .serv- 
ing). Kach  family  has  a  tent,  some  liorM  -,  (ow-  and 
sheep,  the  nuniher  heiiig  now  depleli^l,  now  augmented 
by  the  con.stant  roliberies  practised  first  by  one,  then  l)y 
another  mar  Midintr  tribe.  The  patinhi  whose  guests 
we  were  owned  about  twenty  horses,  twelve  cows  and 


THK  TAX(a'rs  OF  THE  KOKO-XOK  179 


figlil  Imiiilicil  -In  I  [I,  iiml  Wii-  ii'i^'iinlfil  a-;  acU-tu-ilo. 
In  tlu'ir  priiuitivo  way  ol'  living'  tlu'V  an'  rather  clover, 

llUIIUlfuc-tUriilg  lllrlU-rUc-.   llic   ihillL'-   lllt'V    lli'cil,  with 

fiW  cXi        inlls.     \^   ■  r'Ullui  llli'lll  lllllrll  lilulT  ~lm^y  illld 

iliitv  lluiii  'rilKlau-  riuiii  iiiiy  oiIht  pail.     IIr-  \h>  < 

wore  s(i  iilthy  that  dose  contact  with  them  in> 
tents  was  Hs  usual  nauseatin;;  to  me,  so  I  sjK'nt  .  Ii 
time  as  ik'-- -ihli'  ntii-ulc,  re  ilu'v  (•Hii^fc'i.iicil  ...iiml 
me  ami  eviiued  llir  lUcpo.'l  iiiteiv>t  in  the  >\liite  baliy. 
Ku-n  the  fresh  lake  breezes,  tlu'  limpid  azure  sky  above 
ami  the  ery-lal  clearnos  of  the  little  stream  near  by 
rniiM  iKit  (|ii\c  aw. I  ilu'  oiltii  nf  ilii'ir  _i,fii\viis,  or  make 
u-  iiiicoiiM  idUs  ol"  (he  aljamliiiicd  liUhiiiess  of  their 
pi  ixms.  ^lultitudinous  vermin  and  the  aceumulnted 
;,M'ea.-e  of  years  have  made  them  priM>f  against  any  fur- 
ther adiusioii  of  (lilt.  \Vlii!e  the  iiu  ii  ^^o  to  the  liills, 
always  heavily  ariiicil.  lo  ^.naid  tlir  iI-m  and  licids,  the 
Women  remain  at  home  makii  ■'  tlie  Imlter  and  cheese, 
and  collecting  anjoh  to  be  d  ^  in  the  sun  and  used 
for  fuel.  Without  the  lightes  Tuple  they  v.v.uld  pass 
fi'ntn  111!'  niaiiipul'il 'el'  .he  tirijul^  to  the  inixlure  of 
liuttcr,  tile  niiikin^'  of  euws,  or  tiie  makiu",'  of  tea. 
without  \va.~'  i  %  their  .Kuids,  but  simpi  ,  wiping  them 
off  on  the  grass ! 

Hill'  -tranire  feature  alniut  lliis  ]>arl  of  the  '.oiuitry 
wa>  tlie  conspieuous  ah.-euee  of  prayer-tla>:s,  prayer- 
wheels  ^n■  |>rayer-stoncs  so  abundant  in  every  other 
I'l.i'    iiiliii'iiicd  liv  Tiltetans.    V\'e  saw  only  one  prayer- 

^vlu'el,  :i!ld    il   IrelnllLl-ed  ti>  a   prie-t.  wllo   lind  ConU"  for 

tout riliui io;i<.  Meniiicant  priests  abound  even  among 
these  nomads  and  their  solicitations  are  nearly  always 


180 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


liberally  rospouded  to  by  gifts  of  butter,  sheep  and  even 
oows,  horses,  or  anything  else  the  cause  may  require. 
The  liberality  of  tlu'sc  pcoiilr  for  religious  pur{)o>L's  i.-; 
proverbial,  while  thoy  are  most  niggardly  in  every  other 
way. 

The  cattle  found  among  the  Koko-nor  Tibetans  for 

the  most  part  arc  tlie  long-haired  black  ones  of  the 
sa!iH'  liroad  as  the  yak  (llns  (Ininiiii'iis)  which  flourislies 
best  at  high  altitudes.  They  originated  from  wild  cat- 
tle and  are  yet  not  by  any  means  so  tame  as  cows  in  the 
homeland.  They  grunt  instead  of  hawling  and  thus 
remind  one  of  i)igs  rather  tlian  cattle.  Tiicy  are  pas- 
tured on  the  hills  and  iu  the  valleys  wliorever  there  is 
grass.  The  calves  are  always  driven  m  a  different 
direction  from  the  cow.-;  liotli  sliecp  and  cattle  are 
rounded  up  with  the  lielp  of  a  sling,  made  of  a  piece 
of  Hat  rope  about  twenty  inches  in  length  on  each 
side  of  the  pouch,  all  woven  of  wool.  The  natives  are 
experts  at  using  these  slings  and  the  animals  know  the 
sound  of  them,  for  often  have  wc  seen  the  girls  go 
through  the  motion  of  throwing  a  stone  from  them 
though  they  had  none  to  throw,  when  the  snap  of  the 
sling  would  be  enough  to  make  the  animals  run.  The 
cattle  are  driven  in  at  night  and  tetliereil,  some 
to  cither  side  of  long  ropes  fastened  to  the  ground  wil'i 
pegs,  and  when  milking  time  arrives  the  calves  have  to 
be  mothered  by  the  cows  or  no  milk  will  be  forthcoming. 
When  we  read  in  M.  Hue's  book,  his  account  (d'  the 
'"stuffed  calf"  we  were  incredulous,  deciding  that  il 
was  only  a  creation  of  the  author's  imaginaiion,  and 
we  had  also  aflirmed  our  intention  to  educate  the  Tilie- 


THE  TAXOUTS  OF  THE  KOKO-NoR  ISl 


tan  cows  that  are  as  primitive  as  the  people,  but  it 
was  of  no  avail  ami  we  had  the  mortilication  of  ac- 
kuowledgiiig  ouralves  boateu  by  our  own  cows.  The 
little  calf  belonging  to  one  of  the  latter  took  sick  ami 
died,  though,  in  order  to  save  it,  a  native  woman  l)urned 
])\Tanii(ls  of  edelweiss  on  its  s[)ine,  and  carried  it  three 
times  across  a  tire  to  prevent  the  demon  from  remaining 
with  it.  The  mother  was  disconsolate,  and  refused  to 
give  anv  milk,  so  we  resorted  to  deceptitm  and  stuffed 
the  hide  of  tlie  calf  witl\  straw.  When  milking  time 
arrived  the  woman  carried  the  calf  from  the  straw  room, 
and  the  cow  complacently  licked  her  stuffed  baby  while 
she  willingly  allowed  us  to  milk  her. 

The  milk  h  not  strained  but  is  scalded,  part  of  it  used 
for  tea  and  to  make  butter;  tlie  other  part  is  mixed 
with  a  very  little  junket  left  for  the  purpose  from  the 
day  before,  poured  into  vessels  and  allowed  to  remain; 
in  the  morning  it  is  "  set  "  into  junket,  though  not  so 
sweet,  and  becomes  the  sho  so  highly  esteemed  by  the 
Tibetans.    The  cream  removed  from  the  scalded  milk 
is  placed  in  a  not  scrupulously  clean  wooden  churn  and 
is  churned  with  a  dash  as  our  old  fashioned  churns 
have ;  the  butter  is  squeezed  by  the  hands,  thereby  re- 
nmving  the  milk,  and  pressed  into  small  flat  round 
pieces,  or  into  a  skin  sometimes  with  part  of  the  fur 
in  it,  or  into  a  -iieepV  >toniach.  The  butter  is  very  often 
full  of  hairs  from  tiie  animals,  and  other  kinds  of  dirt, 
and  often  streaked  with  green,  but  is  prized  highly  as 
an  article  of  diet.    Among  some  tribes  I  have  heard 
the  older  the  butler  tbe  belter  it  is  liked,  but  wherever 
we  have  been,  the  fresher  it  is  tb.e  higlier  price  it  com- 


182 


WITH  THE  TIBETAXS 


miuids.  The  buttei-milk  is  ciirded  and  the  curds  are 
dried,  winetiines  in  th,'  sun,  becoming  cliiinna,  which 
IS  eaten  witJi  Ijarley  meal  and  tea  or  with  barley  moal 
and  butter  when  tiiero  is  no  opportunity  to  boil  tea,  the 
M-liole  mixed  up  uiili  tli.'  fingers  and  eaten  in  lumps. 

Tlio  meat  used  by  the  Tiliclaiis  i>  a.-  a  rule  inuttnu. 
and  though  the  lamas  consume  large  qnaniiii.  s  of  the 
meat,  they  avoid  killing  it  if  possible.    The  natives  are 
e.xceedingly  skilful  in  catching  the  very  sheep  they 
want  out  of  a  Ibu  k  of  >everal  hundred  by  means  of  a 
lasso,  and  the  'i'lbetans  we  knew  be>t.  unless  we  ex- 
pressly desired  it  otherwise,  ^slaughtered  the  animals 
liy  tying  a  rope  tightly  about  the  nose,  thereby  cutting 
oil'  the  >upply  of  air.     Immediately  afti^rwards  the 
throat  was   cut,  all   being   accomi)lished    amidst  the 
mumbling  of  the  prayer  Oin  main  pad  me  hum.  The 
hide  is  removed  carefully  and  cured  in  a  primitive  man- 
ner, becoming  the  material  of  whicli  the  gowns  are 
matle,  or  perhaps  it  is  shipped  to  China.    Almost  every 
particle  of  the  animal  is  eaten,  the  entrails  are  turned 
inside  out,  imperfectly  washed  and  filled  with  chopped 
"I^  li\er,  lights,  heart,  and  kidney,  seasoned  with  salt 
and  mixed  with  hnmha.  not  unlike  haggis  when  prop- 
erly ]»repared.    1  have  seen  Tibetans  when  traveling, 
cut  up  the  hearts  and  kidneys,  mix  some  blood  with  it, 
put  all  in  a  pot,  and  just  bring  it  to  a  boil  and  eat 
it  with  great  relish.    Often  they  put  pieces  of  meat 
right  on  the  tire,  notwithstanding  the  kind  of  fuel  thev 
use,  and  broil  it.       a  rule  the  meat  is  boiled  and 
eaten  in  large  (piantii  ie-,  the  fattest  being  considered  the 
choicest ;  hence  the  tail  is  given  to  guests  as  a  mark  of 


tup:  taxguts  of  the  koko-xou  183 


respect  or  honor.  The  bones  are  picked  vcrv  clean  and 
t!icn  cracknl  on  a  stone,  or  by  a  >harp  blow  rioni  a 
knilV,  and  the  marrow  removed  and  ealeu.  The  scapiUa, 
or  shoulder  bone,  in  put  into  the  fire  very  often  and 
used  to  tell  fortunes  with,  according  to  the  cracks  made 
bv  the  lieat.  Some  prayers  are  usually  written  on  them 
and  tlity  are  then  hung  up  near  water  prayer  wheels 
on  strings  across  a  road  or  near  a  lent. 

The  tea  is  the  most  important  item  in  Tibetan  culi- 
nary art,  and  any  one  who  can  make  it  to  suit  the  fasti- 
dious is  indeed  clever.  The  tea  used  is  the  brick  tea. 
made  of  the  coarse  leaves  and  small  twigs  of  the  tea 
plant  in  China,  pressed  into  bricks  bound  around  by 
basket  work,  and  sent  up  to  the  Tibetan  border  on  the 
backs  of  coolies,  and  then  into  the  interior  of  Tibet  on 
tbe  backs  of  oxen.  There  are  three  principal  grades  anil 
the  best  grade  goes  in  very  large  quantities  to  Lhasa. 
The  brass  pot  in  which  the  tea  is  to  be  made  is  thor- 
oughly cleaned  with  some  dried  aryoJs  if  nothing  else 
is  at  hand,  and,  the  correct  amount  of  water  having  been 
poured  in,  is  placed  upon  a  good  fire;  the  leaves  are 
then  in  large  quantities  put  into  the  water,  and  a  little 
salt  and  sometimes  soda,  if  they  have  it,  is  added,  and 
the  whole  is  thoroughly  Ijoiled.  The  tea  is  then  strained 
into  a  churn  containing  bntlcr  and  isainha  and  the 
whole  is  churned  up  into  a  mi.xture  looking  not  unlike 
chocolate,  but  with  a  very  different  taste.  The  leaves 
are  often  used  a  second  time  or  are  fed  to  the  horses. 
Sliouhl  the  harder  brick  tea  be  the  kind  used,  a  piece 
is  put  in  a  wooden  mortar  and  with  a  stone  pestle  is 
powdered  up  and  then  added  to  the  water.   Tea  pouretl 


1S4 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


into  a  himn  on  a  piece  of  butler  is  druuk  in  very  large 
quantities,  composing  the  only  breakfast  partaken  of 
hfforo  10  o'clock.  Every  one  carries  along  with  him 
in  tho  blouse  of  his  gown  his  own  drinking  bowl  made 
of  wood,  among  the  belter  class  lined  with  silver  or 
white  metal.  The  butter  sinks  into  the  wood  and  as  it 
is  often  rancid,  iho  basin  soon  takes  on  a  peculiar,  not 
at  all  inviting  odor,  esiu'cially  as  the  only  disliclolli  the 
natives  possess  is  iheir  tongue,  the  bowl  being  thoroughly 
licked  out  after  use.  When  partaking  of  Tibetan  hos- 
pitality, tea  drinking  is  sometimes  more  of  a  bore  than 
a  ]jlcai~ure,  the  pressure  Ijroiight  ujwn  you  to  drink  more, 
your  basin  being  filled  up  whenever  set  down,  being 
so  hard  to  resist,  and  yet  if  the  butter  is  not  fresh  the 
tea  acts  almost  like  an  emetic.  There  is  no  more  gen- 
uine hospitality  tlian  that  to  be  found  among  these 
nomadic  people  and  not  to  accept  it  with  the  grace 
with  which  it  is  proffered,  at  once  raises  a  barrier  be- 
tween you  and  them.  Frequently  we  ha\  e  seen  travelers 
insist  upon  perfect  strangers  eating  their  butter  and 
isaiiih';:  and  almost  invariably  llie  latter  would  do  so, 
and  u[)on  linishing,  leave  as  much  of  their  own  in  the 
place  of  what  they  had  eaten.  Delightful,  pleasant  in- 
tercourse with  these  tent-dwellers  living  so  simple  and 
so  natural  a  life  I 

In  some  families  the  tuamha  is  ground  fresh  every 
morning.  A  half  basin  of  tea  with  a  liberal  supply  of 
butter  is  heaped  up  with  tmmhn  from  a  skin  bag,  and 
witliout  spilling  a  particle  of  the  meal,  tlie  natives  skil- 
fully knead  the  whole  into  a  mass  and  eat  it  from  the 
hand  in  pieces,  as  we  cat  bread.   It  is  remarkable  that 


THE  TAXGUTS  OF  THE  KOKO-XOR  18ft 


the  natives  prize  the  tsamha  so  highly  as  an  article  of 
diet,  and  yet  except  in  certain  places  none  of  the  laud  i-. 
cultivated,  the  people  prefen.iig  lo  lead  nomadie  lives 
and  go  8ometiuios  a  month"s  journey  for  their  Isamba  to 
doing  agricultural  work  even  on  a  small  scale.  The 
barley  is  used  to  make  clt'i>uj,  an  alcoholic  .rink  of 
which  the  natives  imbibe  very  large  quantities.  It  is 
made  by  soaking  the  barley  at  a  moderate  Ivit  for  some 
days  and  then  crushing  and  straining  it.  Chinese  wine 
is  freely  used  along  the  oorder  aud  even  long  distances 
into  Tibetan  territory,  lit.tli  men  and  women  drink 
freely,  becoming  jovial,  and  often,  if  away  from  home, 
avarieioiis  and  quarrelsome,  and  pity  th-J  poor  travelers 
falling  unprotected  into  the  hands  of  drunken  Tibetans. 

Among  the  Koko-nor  Tibe'ans  the  women  are  veste.l 
with  all  ar.thority  in  househoh'.  ail'airs.  We  wanted  to 
barter  a  knife  for  another  pair  of  bellows,  and  the  man 
with  whom  wo  bargained  said,  "  I  must  first  go  to  the 
tent  and  ask  my  wifo  if  T  nuiy  do  so." 

As  soon  as  our  own  tent  was  erected  we  repaired  to 
it  and  were  imn  ediatelv  visited  by  our  panaka  bearing 
a  present  of  dried  me.i*  which  we  graciously  acknowl- 
edged. We  also  ^1  id  visits  from  i  .anv  priests  aud  others 
with  whom  we  converged  )n  Christianity,  and  presented 
each  one  with  a  copy  of  the  Gospels  in  their  own  tongue. 
Our  tent  was  pitched  in  a  charming  situation  w^  nce 
we  had  a  splendid  view  of  the  lake  and  its  ouv  .-. 
To  the  south  and  we;.-l  stretched  ranges  of  mouniuins 
covered  'vith  fine  grass,  their  summits  burned  to  crim- 
son by  the  setting  sun.  On  the  other  side,  like  a 
gigantic  jewel  of  the  desert,  lay  the  lake,  while  faintly 


18G 


W  ITII  THE  TIBETAN'S 


visible  in  the  ili^itance  bovond  its  northern  and  eastern 

>hoiv^  other  iiKnuitaiii  niii-c-  LIcikUmI  tlicir  Ijiuey  out- 
lines with  the  r-kv.  The  hike  i>  imt  i;ir;:c.  Itciii;:,  aocord- 
iiifi'  to  Kotkhill.  aljoul  '.'oO  niiles  in  cin-iiuiiVivnce.* 
The  same  author  ealeuhites  the  altitude  as  10,000  Teet, 
while  Dr.  Sven  Iledin  places  it  at  '.).u:r,  feet.  The 
hike  is.  so  llie  native-^  inrnniicil  u>.  AmI  ],\-  ~cvctitv-t\vo 
>treaiiis;  of  tiiese  we  had  already  erossed  thirty-one, 
nonj  of  them  larjre  enough  to  merit  the  apiiellation  of 
river,  hut  llu'v  sujiply  man  and  beast  with  fresh  water, 
a  mis-ion  wliirh  tlie  Koko-iior  M  itit  all  its  beautv  cannot 
I'ulliil,  since  its  -waters  are  salty.  On  tlte  side  where 
we  were  camped  there  was  no  beach,  the  grass  cont in- 
ning- ri::lit  to  the  water's  edge. 

In  the  lake  are  three  di>tinrt  islands  a  eoii-iJcralile 
distance  apart;  the  western  one.  a  low  strip  nf  kmd.  is 
uninhabited,  and  is  named  Tso-ri-wa-ri ;  tlie  middle 
one,  called  Sam-me-che-kur,  lying  near  the  southern 
shore,  is  a  ma.-s  of  white  rock  (prnliaiily  'n-anito,  wh.ieh 
abounds  in  all  the  mountain  ranges  of  the  di-trici) 
rising  perpendicular  out  of  the  water;  the  third  one, 
first  mentioned  by  Hue  and  later  by  Roekhill  and  Prje- 
valski.  is  called  Tso-ri-niah.  Projecting  high  aliovc 
the  >urface  of  the  water,  it  is  at  once  an  i.-land  and  a 
truncated  hill.  The  natives  attribute  to  it  a  legendary 
origin  which  is  as  follows:  The  waters  that  have 
I'onnrd  ilic  Blue  Lake  flowed  into  the  basin  which  th(>y 
now  lill  through  a  long  suliterrancan  passage  leading 
from  Lhasa,  the  holy  city.  A  god  having  compassion 
on  the  country  lest  it  should  Ix?  completely  inundated, 

*  Prjevalski's  measurcmeni  i&  266  Kilometers, 


Tin:  TANdPTS  or  THK  KOKO-NOH  187 


])lii(t'-l  ill''  T?«)-ii-n' ill  iiKiiiiitaiii  rock  at  the  inoutii 
of  iliL'  iia.«sage  ami  caused  the  How  to  cease.    Hue  has 
jliveu  a  most  elaborate  version  of  this  kgcnd  in  the 
M  ruiiil  volume  of  lii^  work.    It     only  oiif  of  tlio  many 
iliiil  liavf  grown  up  around  the  lake  and  islands.  As 
Di.  Hcdiu  passed  through  the  Koko-nor  country  he 
heard  the  following:   "  In  the  gi.\y  far  ofl'  day-  of  old. 
a  groat  lan:a  dug  a  va-t  hole  in  the  ground.    Tlu'ii  he 
loiik  a  white  root  and  a  l)la>  k  root  of  some  plant,  and 
hulding  them  over  the  chasm,  cut  the  black  root  into 
two  halves  out  of  which  the  water  gushed  1'i>m1i  in 
streams  until  it  fdled  the  lake.   If  he  had  cut  the  while 
root,  llie  hole  would  have  been  filled  with  milk.   It  was  • 
roiiunate  he  cut  the  root  out  of  which  the  water  flowed, 
for  otherwise  the  peo]ilc  who  lived  in  those  parts  would 
net  have  been  able  to  keep  sheep  and  so  would  have  had 
uoildng  to  do.   Atrer  that  .i)c  lama  went  up  into  a  high 
inouniain  eloso  l\v,  and  broke  out  of  it  an  enormous 
]>ieee  of  rock  and  cast  it  into  the  middle  of  the  lake, 
and  that  was  ho.v  the  island  was  made."* 

On  the  Tso-ri-niah  is  a  small  lamasery  containing 
twelve  hermit  hrnas  and  two  incarnations  of  "living 
buddhas  "  one  of  whom  belongs  to  Goniba  Soma,  These 
ri  i  luK's  spend  most  of  their  time  on  the  island  in  prayer 
ami  ineiliiation.  coming  into  contact  with  the  "world" 
oidv  in  winter  time  when  they  cross  on  tlie  ice  to  the 
mainland  to  collect  contributions  of  butter,  tea,  barley- 
meal,  and  oilier  provisions  necessary  for  their  subsist- 
ence. 'I'iiry  are'  not  sup])oscd  to  eat  any  meat.  1)ut  they 
kt'ep  goats  on  the  island  to  supply  them  with  milk.  No 

*  "  Tnioiigh  Asia,"  by  Sven  Hcdin.  Vol.  II,  p.  II43- 


18S 


WITH  TIIK  TIHKTAXS 


m;,'1i  of  ii  Ijoiit  is  to  Ijo  siX'ii  iiloiiy  the  i^lioU',  t-o  that  no 
comniuniiation  can  l)c  had  with  the  mainland  in  the 
.siiiumer  month!-. 

On  the  (lay  after  arrival  wo  ('X])ressc(l  our  reailiness 
to  operate  on  our  patient's  eye,  but,  as  tlie  time  for 
moving  to  their  winter  quarters  had  come,  we  decided 
at  the  requc.-t  of  the  ponaka'a  people  to  wait  two  days 
until  they  should  have  moved  their  eamp  to  the  ad- 
jf.ining  mountains,  to  a  plaee  whieh  marked  the  first 
of  three  stages  to  the  winter  camping-gnniuds.  We 
distributed  Gospels  and  talked  to  some  priests;  had  a 
hath  in  the  lake  and  saw  lar^je  quantities  of  lish.  Two 
(lays  later  we  moved,  making  the  aseent  of  a  lofty 
mountain  from  which  in  the  dist  anee  the  lake  appeared 
like  a  sheet  of  glass.  The  operation  was  duly  performed 
and  a-  far  as  we  eould  a-r(>rtain,  was  very  successful. 
Tiie  following  day  we  gave  copies  of  tiie  (Jospels  to 
many  Tangnts,  among  others  to  thirteen  priests,  who 
were  returning  to  Tankar  from  gathering  contributions, 
and  were  passing  our  encampment.  Two  days  l,;t(  r  tlie 
report  reached  us  that  they  had  lH>en  attacked  and 
robbed  of  everything — our  books  likely  having  been 
carried  off  too.  The  report  of  the  robbing  of  the  thir- 
teen ]>ricsts,  as  well  as  the  losing  of  their  horses,  struck 
fear  into  the  hearts  of  two  lamas  who  wanted  to  return, 
as  well  as  into  the  hearts  of  our  priest  and  book-keeper: 
so  they  decided  *o  await  our  return  and  travel  safely 
under  the  protection  of  our  llre-arins.  On  the  2nd  of 
the  eighth  moon  we  prepared  iox  the  journey.  Stand- 
ing on  the  mountain  height  as  the  rising  sun  peeped 
over  the  eastern  ridges  and  mirrored  his  glowing  face 


TIIK  TANr.rTS  OF  Till-:  KOKO-NOU  189 


oil  the  ^la.-.-y  burfaco  of  the  lake,  we  inhaled  onto  nwra 
the  exhilnrntinp  brcozps  that  swept  across  it,  and  felt 

in  oiir  lirarts  .1^  we  <^Mvd  nii  its  plai  id  waters  how 
dcliglilful  it  would  be  ever  to  al)ide  l)y  its  chores.  But 
dangers  were  pressing  and  duty  calle<l  Us  baek  to  Taii- 
kar.  We  mu?t  turn  away  from  those  beautiful  shores 
and  from  the  watery  <)a.*is.  so  bright  and  pure,  like 
tlie  lakes  that  wa>h  t'lf  -liorc»  of  Ontario,  nn  native 
proviiiee.  'I'hou  lilue  inland  sea.  in  >ilinee  lift- 
in"'  thv  unsullied  waters  to  the  pure  heavens,  relleet- 
ing  in  thy  linii)id  dejjths  the  pageantry  of  the  rolling 
elouds;  thou  fountain  of  b-cnds  that  well  up  from 
tliv  mvsterious  depths  ami  allure  to  thy  ^liores  the  dark 
faeed  sons  of  the  desert  to  worship  the  (ireat  Spirit 
whose  voiee  is  heard  in  thy  silence;  thou  sap[ihire  of 
the  wirderness,  safely  guarded  in  the  embrace  of  eu- 
eireling  hills,  and  mirroring  the  radiances  of  the  mmi- 
>.  |~  ol"  a,i,'es.  Aegean  in  thy  grandeur  with  tiiy  roeky 
I'atnios,  we  bid  thee  farewell,  but  from  our  souls  the 
apocalypse  of  thy  beauty  will  never  be  effaced ! 

Having  some  Gospels  left  we  decided  to  distribute 
them  among  the  encampments  we  might  meet  along  tlie 
road,  and  it  was  not  long  l)cfore  we  had  an  opportunity. 
The  priests  an<l  people  received  the  books  gladly.  Mr. 
Kijnhart  estimated  that  on  the  trip  at  least  two  thou- 
sand Tilj(>tans  were  reached  with  some  knowledge  of  the 
gospel.  As  far  as  possilde  wc  tried  to  put  a  book  into 
each  tent  and  since  in  each  is  a  lama  who  can  read,  it 
is  safe  to  conclude  that  ten  people  would  hear  some 
reading  from  each  book.   On  the  whole  wc  were  much 


I'.MI 


W  ITH  TIIK  TIBKTANS 


fill (iiiiii;:t  'l  by  it  iik  i .ii  iii;:  vvnik,  iln  I'li'U  it 

wji.  ii  iM«>>l  I'lfrcti'.c  wiiv  of  pn'pariii};  tlit-M'  riulc,  Imt 
intfR>tiiig  nonmilsi  for  the  reception  of  I'hristiuu  teuch- 


CHAPTER  XI 


TOWAnO  THL  TIBETAN-  CAPITAL 

Um>H,  the  Home  ..f  the  l)uh»i  La.im-.N.r.l  ..f  I',.,n.v, 
Work  in  Inner  Tibet— Our  Preparation!,  for  the  .lour- 
nev. 


Ill  the  far  interior  of  Tibet.  aJmut  one  hinidre.1  miles 

'""■'l...f(l„.IIiM,alav.„  nn,;;,,  ..h..I,,,n.I  l.v  siere.I  moun- 
l-'.ii.  on  ever\  mle,      Lha...  1 1,..  caiMtal   ih,.  omIv  ,„v 
in  the  world  whieh  h  ab.ulutcly  ma.re.sil.le  to  \Ve>t- 
-  nier^.    To  a-t  foot  within  its  walls  hn^t  been  the  anil)i- 
man.v  trav.  l.i-  of  il,,.  ^nv,oM  ceiiturv :  one  expe- 
<l'li'm  aller  another,  ,-svn  alter  er  ^-i-i-  the  fonnidahlr 
lM^.H!.s  that  lead  throii-h  the  natun.    .arrier.  e„elo>i„.r 
tlio  country  on  the  south  and  west,  has  i)cen  obliged  to 
retnat  without  a  .i-l,t  of  tiie  coveted  goal.    For  the 
M-aiit  information  n-anlin;:  the  eitv        are  indrht.,! 
to  Hue  and  Gab«>t,  proi.a.l.iy  the  la^l 'Huropca...  to  vi^i 
It  (that  was  m  lS4ti),  and  to  the  Indian  Pandit  A  K 
Mlio  rcside.l  there  for  some  ti......    The  attempts  of 

Irjevalski,  Bonvalot,  Kockhill,  Landor  and  otliers  to 
penetrate  to  the  forbidden  ea],ital  have  been  in  vain 
every  one  of  them  being  obliged  hv  oflrioials  to  turn 
•nek.  or.  being  unable  to  procee.l  o„  account  of  the 
hardships  they  have  been  compelled  to  endure.  To- 

101 


1,,2  WITH  THE  TIBETANS 

anv  the  cvr.  ul  tho  traveler  am\  scientist  as  well  a. 
^Lo^f  the  missionary,  are  eagerly  waUlun,  l.r  ^ 
d^^lopnient  oi  event,  that  wHl  U.u\  to  the  c  owul.a  ol 
the  barriers  that  too  long  have  kept  a  pen^pk- 
I'L,  ana  bKl  deiiance  to  the  march  of  Chr.stmu  ci.A- 

'turing  our  re.a.nee  of  three  years  at  Kun>..m^^^^ 
T.nkar    Lha>a  Inel  Inrome  a  .uh.i-rt  ol  ahao>t  da  In 
^  t:;.tion.   The  four  ana  e.,.  eially  Shar-,c- 

ia-ba  had  told  n^uch  about  the  city  and  -rro-^ 
ng^its  great  to.nples,  revered  pne.t.  and  the  <.xalt.  d 
of^Lal.  M.naFuveh  had  spoken  01  the  sa^od 
,„U,..>  there,  an-l  of  the  many  lamas  who  ro.ort  o  it 
r,oin  all  parts  of  Tibet  to  study  the  pro  ound  dortnne 

SakvaMuni,  and  of  the  multitudes  '>l  P''^-- 
feel  thon>..lv.s  anMdy  rewarded  for  months  u  penlou. 
e  ,ng  bv  wor.luppn.g  m  the  Dalai  Lamas  emplo 
a,  ,t;iive  golden  cupolas,  and  receiving  h.s  Hessjng 
bv  touching  his  magie  seepter.    (My  of  mvste.>  a  d 
;isdom,  what  wonder  that  .v.ry  1—  -If'-.^^^'^f 
,ion  is  to  go  there  to  study  or  to  worship.^  \ 
.  who  H-e  not  able  to  go  in  state  walk  all  the  d.s- 
often  begging  a^  they  go.      ^^^^^^  ^^'^^^^ 
temp  atiou  to  robhrrs.    Mina  Fuv-h  olten  told  n>  th. 
i  Tnld  eo^t  bun  a  fortune  to  go,  for  bemg  ot  such 
higli  rank  himself,  he  would  be  expected  to  give  verv 
handsome  offerings  to  the  Dalai  Lama  and  the  tenjp  e. 
in  Lhasa,  olhrrwi.e  he  woubl  not  receive  the  con.ukra- 
tion  due  hi.n.   The  necessity  of  keeping  up  appe^ance. 
-the  demand,  that  rank  entails  upon  h"«J««  being.' 
are  the  same  everywhere,  whether  m  the  wilds  of  Tibet, 


TOWAKD  TllK  TlliETAN  rAl'lTxYL  \M 

or  in  the  cultured  eitie.  of  the  west.     Mina  Fuyeli 
verv  com  nimtlv  ex.  u.e.l  Inmself  fror.  uiulertakmg  a 
journev  tu  hha-a,  lor  l.e  .leehuva  that,  having  paid 
homage  lo  ihe  potentate  in  his  previous  life-time  he 
did  not  intend  to  visit  Lhasa  again  until  lus  next  l.to- 
tiine'    Not  Ion-  ago  1  re,viv..<l  n.'w>  >!iat  the  iornier 
abbot  ha,l  undertaken  a  journey  to  IVkin  and  Eastern 
Mongolia,  a  journev  which  will  bring  him  a  handsome 
income,  as  Tibetan  lamas  in  those  regions  are  greatly 
revered,  receiving  m  exchange  I'or  their  >erNHes  the 
,no.t  inunilic.nt  olVrrings.    1  have  often  thought  he  was 
nuie  roncerned  in  accumulating  wealth  for  himseil 
a  id  increasing  his  own  intluence  than  in  contributing 
to  the  cxche(iuer  of  tlie  i>alai  Lama. 

Jn  common  with  all  oilier  lni^^iouarie=  and  traveler., 
intere.-led  in  Tibet,  wc  had  thought,  read,  and  dreamed 
much  anout  Lhasa  even  before  we  reac  i-.l  th.  border 
and  indeed  our  lu-pe  and  faith  le.l  n.  lo  look  lorward 
to  the  time  when  the  go-pcl  could  be  preached  there,  a, 
well  a<  in  everv  nouuulic  imcami-ment  on  the  Tibetan 
plateau.  We  knew  moreover  that  if  ever  the  gospel  w<  re 
proclaimed  in  Lha>a.  some  one  would  hav.  to  U-  the 
liM  to  undertake  the  Journey,  to  meet  the  diUicultie^, 
,„  piva.h  t!ie  lirst  sermon  and  perhaps  never  return  to 
^^,11  ii,,.  tale— who  knew?    Tionecr  work  in  mission 
iields  has  from  the  days  of  the  apostles  down  to  th.. 
present  entailed  its  martyrdoms  a.  w.ll  as  yielded  it.- 
.lori.nis  results.    If  the  opening  of  Africa  meant  the 
!acnlice  of  a  Living>tonc,  if  the  Christianization  of  the 
South  Sea  Islands  meant  the  cruel  death  of  John  ^\  il- 
liams,  if  the  triumphs  of  the  Cross  in  Uganda  were 


194 


WITH  THE  TIIJKTAX.S 


wrought  over  the  bodv  of  the  inurdered  Hauningiuii, 
and  if  Burmah  must  l)o  trod  by  the  bleeding  feet  of 
Judson  and  his  wife,  ijefore  the  iiaiwst  of  five 

hundred  (Imnli.'s  can  hv  vviqml.  couhl  it  be  possil)le 
that  all  TiUl  should  be  C'hri.-tiani/AHl.  that  witness  ol' 
the  Christ  should  be  borne  in  the  very  stronghold  of 
Buddliism  withoet  >onic  MillVring,  some  persecution, 
nay  without  tears  and  blDdd:' 

As  1  havL-  already  stated,  we  IVlt  from  the  very  be- 
ginning that  we  were  specially  called  to  do  juuneer  work  ; 
and  now  tliat  it  had  been  permitted  us  to  travel  anion" 
tlie  lan  '.ts  of  the  Kuko-nor,  pi-eaehing,  teaching,  doc- 
toring, and  distributing  the  Serii)tures  for  many  days 
into  the  grass  country,  wc  were  willing  to  be  "tlirust 
into  other  unknown  and  more  distant  fields.    Not  a 
single  mi->ionary  was  lalioring  in  the  Lhasa  district, 
and  yet  there  was  the  .Ma-lei'-  edinmand:    "  Preach 
liie  -.)>pel  to  every  creature."     Having  jtrayed  tlial 
(iod  would  open  our  way  to  the  interior,  we  had  (piieily 
av,  rted  events.    We  asked  that  wc  might  lie  di\  inely 
giiii'cd  at  every  step  and  that  the  niean>  nii-hi  Ik-  pro- 
vided for  the  journey.   Uur  [)rayers  were  answered  and, 
although  we  knew  not  what  the  results  would  be,  W(' 
rejoiced  exceedingly  that  we  were  counted  worthy  to 
traverse  for  ihe  first  time  in  the  name  of  Christ  whole 
ilislriets  ii\  v^hich  His  name  had  never  been  heard. 
Whether  we  siiould  ever  reach  Lhasa  or  not,  we  did 
not  know:  (  >;  desire  was  to  approach  as  near  to  it 
as  i)ossiljh...  settle  c.  .  !>  fur  a  yearV  'vork  in  the  far 
interior,  gain  the  -  uilii;.  nee  of  the  people  as  we  had 
done  on  the  border  ard  'hen  eventually— in  (Jod's  tiiiK; 


TOWARD  THE  TIBETAN  CAPITAL  195 

—enter  the  capital.  On  the  way  too,  we  would  take  note 
of  all  point.-  w  hvw  nm^um>^  might  be  established,  con- 
viTsing  with  tlu-  (iillVirnt  triU-  and  asrertaining  their 
iiitituilL'  m  the  matter.  Bo.<idos  this,  wo  had  ordered 
a  large  supply  of  Scriptures  wh"  'h  we  would  di.<tribute 
as  we  journeyed,  and  thus  our  pioneer  work  would  bo 
sanctilied  by  the  Word  of  God,  which  cannot  return 
unto  its  Author  void.  Let  it  bo  clearly  understood 
that  the  purpose  of  our  j.jurney  was  purely  missionary; 
it  was  not  a  mere  atlventurc  or  expedition  prompted  by 
(■urio>ity  or  desire  for  discovery,  bm  a  desire  to  ap- 
l)roai-]i  our  fellow  men  uitli  the  upiiftiiig  nie-~a:.'-e  of 
Truth  and  to  share  with  them  ble>.-iugs  thai  (iod  had 
ordained  for  all  mankind — and  we  knew  that  even  if 
"iir  iiiis>iun  apparently  failed,  the  path  at  least  would 
have  been  l)eaten,  and  that  in  due  time  other  laborers 
would  be  seiit  forth  to  carry  on  the  \v(jrk. 

From  a  human  standpoint  here  was  ab.«olutely 
nothing  invitin-  in  sucli  an  undertaking.  On  the  fron- 
tier tlie  minds  vi  Cliiue.-e  and  'ril)etan>  alil-ce  are  tilird 
with  fear  of  the  great  dillicultics  of  the  journey  to  Llia>a, 
through  robber  districts,  over  very  high  mountain  [iasses, 
:ind  across  large  ri\'  rs,  an<l  to  a  certain  extent  we  had 
^li.i^ed  their  a[)pre]ii'nsi()iis ;  l,ut  after  the  thril'ing  ex- 
in  l  iences  of  the  .Mohammedan  rebellion,  and  after  com- 
ing into  such  clo.se  contact  with  the  people  tiirougli  our 
residence  in  the  house  of  the  abbot,  and  especially  after 
our  itinerating  journeys  among  ihe  nomads  of  tin.  Koko- 
nor,  every  vestige  of  fear  was  gradually  removed.  |>e- 
(juent  and  intimate  conversations  with  merchants,  lamas 
and  others  including  many  women,  who  had  been  back- 


1 


196  WITH  Tin:  TIBETANS 

^vard.■=  and  fonvarcl.  from  Llia.a  .ovctuI  limos  took 
,1,..  i.rror  of  i.a.^os,  rivers,  arid  wa.lo.,  and  deatli- 
d.aling  wiiHls.  of  ^M^  wo  had  hoard  .o  much,  and 
Iiuior  Tibet  did  not  t^oom  so  Hir  ^'^vay.  >n  impossible 
to  rrarli.  as  wo  had  at  first  brm  b'd  i..  ],r\wx>: 

si,ar-i(-ia-ba  and  manv  others  U-om  the  siored  eilv 
kul  told  u.  that  we  might  go  as  far  into  the  eountry 
as  wo  chose,  even  to  within  one  dav'-  j.niiiuy  ol  tbo 
capital,  and  stay  as  hn,g  a>  we  w.^l.  d.  in^ov.d.d  we 
did  not  trv  to  go  to  tlieir  oily  of  wor>hip,  ^-  wulact 
will,  Kurcpeans  woukl  delUe  their  liigh  priest.  Know- 
iu"-  tliat  a  pa.-i.ort  from  the  Sining  Amban  or  Tartar 
fiS^eral  would  give  us  the  good-will  of  the  people  1-e- 
vond  the  distriets  wliero  we  onr-elves  were  so  well  knoW;u 
Sir.  Ilijnltart  applied  fur  one,  though  other  travelers 
>roing  in  from  China,  scrupulously  avoid  allowing  tins 
official  to  know  they  are  g^.ing  into  Tibet,  as  he  would 
,iot  permit  them  to  proee..d.  did  ho  know  their  inlon- 
ti.,„;.    Ilowevc.r,  our  aid  to  the  soldiers  and  other 
wounded  during  the  rebellion,  was  so  much  appreciated, 
that  we  felt  if  anv  one  coidd  procure  a  passport  from 
this  man  we  were  in  a  good  po>ition  to  do  so.    lie  was 
v,.rv  fri.  ndlv  indeed,  but  said  much  as  he  wonld  like 
,0  iudp  us  he  had  not  the  power  to  give  us  a  passport, 
because  our  Chinese  ones  were  only  for  the  Szo  Chuan 
and  Kansu  province,  and  advi^.d  u>  that  the  lu-xt  pass- 
K.r  at  Shanghai  or  r.km  sliould  be 
;,,ae  out  fur  Kansu  and  the  Tsing-hai  or  Koko-nor, 
and  upon  it  he  could  then  give  us  ono  in  1  ibetan  which 
would  enable  us  to  travel  m  >aroty.    ^r.  llijiuiart  t.icn 
a.ked  him  to  give  us  a  loiter  sayit,g  to  tho^e  who  read 


TOWATiD  THE  TIBETAN  CAPITAL  197 

.  ,  on  a  peau  ful  mission,  and  that  the  peo- 

Srlre  L  cl.0.0,  «ml  .tay  a,  long  a.  »»  -v.*«A 

\VI,™  i.  l«a".-  k"""  '""""S  the  n.t.v«  that  we 
;„  ,.,  n,aU.  a  iourney  into 

I  ,.1 ,      l.ia  not  luvo  known  jv.»t  how  lo  arrange, 
i  a'lonn.,,  ..kc  TIM.  t„e  native.  taow  ho»M,.  n,a„. 

age  tran^port  animata,  P-''-'         ^  'ti,i^ t  ,  of 

WW  than  fore  fillers  do.    At  thi>  tinit,  ujim  i 
"b    valucTto  us,  and  forwarded  our  go.ng  as  no 
u.    ervunt  could  have  done,  for  our  - 

ke  him  in  the  direction  of  his  home  m  Ladak,  and 
ake  him  in  i  ^^.^^^^^ 

ho  was  anxious  to  see  ni^  iii<  >  , 
in  all  probability  mourning  hnn  as  doad^  ^^\lf.r^ 
•aed  l^ow  many  men  we  would  take  w^th  1^ 
,.ac.ulated  how  much  food  we  would  need,  and 
many  animals  we  would  have  to  ^  ^^^^^^^ 

1-new  the  danger  of  having  too  little  food,  and  Kahmi  am 
r\  low  il  t.)  forget  tluit  either,  having  narrowly 
:::.^di::g^om^nger  in  the  far  unpopulated  in- 


198 


WITH  THE  TIBETAXS 


terior.    Wc  did  not  wish  to  be  at  tlie  mercy  of  petty 
<  hiel'N  wlio  might  choose  to  dictate,  saying  that  if  we 
<li(l  not  aiTcdc  to  their  wish.'s  they  wouhl  not  permit 
Die  people  to  a'll  us  any  food,  a  caliunitv  that  liad 
already  bcfaHon  travelers  among  tluv-^e  exclusive  nomads. 
To  avoid  l,eing  boycotted  in  the  above  mentioned  wav, 
we  derided  to  take  with  us  food  enough  to  hist  us  two 
years,  hoping  we  wouM  he  heyond  the  hord(>r  for  that 
length  of  time.    There  were  two  reasons  whv  we  did 
not  take  a  large  caravan.    One  was  our  belief  that  a 
small  caravan  would  excite  less  suspicion  and  covet- 
ousness,  and  anothi-r  was  the  fact  that  a  small  caravan 
would  be  more  easily  managed,  recpiiring  fewer  scrv- 
imts  to  look  after  it.   We  would  also  have  less  trouble 
in  looking  after  them,  and  further  we  would  not  re- 
(juire  such  large  (piantities  of  supplies.    W.'  decided 
to  take  only  two  men  besides  Rahim,  and  would  there- 
fore need  five  riding  animals  and  twelve  pack-animals. 
Besides  this  we  sent  some  camel-loads  ahead  to  the 
Tsaidam,  a  :\Iongol  settlement  about  a  month's  jour- 
ney from  Tankar. 

Every  year  a  large  caravan  of  l-opas,  who  have  been 
trading  on  the  Lord..,-  and  at  Pekin,  leaves  Tank?r  for 
lioiiie,  and  as  the  roads  over  ihe  mountains  are 
sable  in  winter  time,  the  beginning  of  ourtl  ■) 
is  fixed  as  the  date  for  starting.  1..  the  sj 
ISOR.  this  time  fell  al.out  the  middle  of  Mav,  so  all 
our  plans  w.mv  laid  for  leaving  at  the  same  ti.ne  as  this 
earavan,  many  of  whom  we  knew  verv  wi'l.  Tankar 
was  a  busy  place  indeed  an  1  all  the  preparations  for 
the  departure  of  such  an  immense  caravan,  providing 


TOWAJ.'D  Tin;  TlIiHTAX  CAIMTAL  m 


iniiual.-,  f(X)(l  and  otlicr  thin<^.<  requisite  for  a  journey 
uf  nearly  three  moiillis.    Tliou-ii  the  /.o/m.s  come  out 
of  Tibet  with  yak,  they  usually  ^•ell  these  animals  ou 
the  border  and  buy  mules  for  the  return  journey,  (lie 
latter  eonmianding  a  hi-h  price  in  the  interior.  See- 
ing that  we  expected  to  stay  some  time  in  the  T-^'aidani 
we  did  not  deem  it  wise  to  take  mules,  since  they  do 
not  winter  as  well  there  as  horses.   Besides,  we  did  not 
purpose  to  burden  ourselves  witli  grain  to  feed  our  ani- 
mals, and  with  mules,  grain  is  indi>pen>ahle.  Fnlil  we 
had  bought  the  required  number  of  horses,  our  court- 
yard presented  oftentimes  a  peculiar  aspect,  and  it 
wa^  laughable  to  see  some  of  the  animals  brought  to  us 
fu  •  sail'  by  those  who  thouglit  foreigners  did  not  know 
very  much  about  ordinary  everyday  life  and  its  re- 
quirements; there  were  horses  large  and  .-mall,  fat  and 
lean,  diseased  and  lame,  and  some  with  beautiful  sad- 
dles under  which  were  deej)  sores.    On  the  borders  of 
Tibet  all  bargaining  between  two  persons  is  done 
through  a  middleman,  up  whose  sleeve  the  seller  puts 
hand,  and  by  tlie  way  he  grasps  the  different  fingers 
of  the  former's  hand,  makes  known  his  price;  where- 
ii])on  the  buyer  is  notified  in  the  same  silent  and  unseen 
manner.    He  then  tells  the  middleman  how  much  he 
i-  willing  to  give,  and  so  backwards  and  forwards  in 
I  lie  sleeves  the  price  is  arranged.    As  the  business  be- 
K'Hies  brisk,  however,  the  silence  is  l)roken,  and  often 
gives  way  to  general  eon  fusion.    There  were  pack  sad- 
dles to  be  provided  for  our  transport  horses,  and  one 
must  be  careful  not  to  be  induced  to  buy  yak  saddles, 
instead  of  mule  or  horse  saddles,  for  they  are  entirely 


.^„,>  WITH  THE  TTBETAXS 

u„HUlal,l..    I'a'  k  >aadl.s  are  made  of  wood  comisting 
:r;o  hon.o„tal  pi..es  for  .ide.  Joined   .  .uh  ot  .r 
„ver  ih.  Inu-k  of  th.  h<>.-  l.y  two  mund.l  n,u 
i,  rnuu  and  un.  l.lnnd.  ,ad,Un,,  ^,.4^  and  n^jK. 
„„,,,„,•„,.  tlK.  outlU.    r.lacUMuUhs  were  bu.v  making 
,      „„„i;ie--.ham.  with  cull,  which  are   a.  oned  on 
he  fon.feet  of  one  or  more  hor.es,  and  loek.d  the  own. 
keepin,  the  kev.  These  a,v  u..d  to  pn.vn,  the  anuna U 
;^'.^„h.n  a;  ni,h,.and  area  natne  unentH^n,  wlulc 
I;        .0...  oC  uool  and  yak-hair  arc  used  to  keep 
mun  >traying  too  far  away  when  grazing,  and  to 
,n.ke  the  eatehing  of  th..n  when  wanted  an  easv  m  t- 
Zr     Wmie  horses,  saddl..  rope.,  ote..  were  be.ng  got 
r,.adv...  had  tadors  and  women  n.ak.n,  lor  u«  all  the 
T,h.:,an  eh„h,ng  we  might  need,  and  tl-gh ^ 
,,i,„,  are  nuisanee  enongh  when  .ewmg  for  >on^they 
hearnoeompan-ontoM.n.  'iansand  1  d>otans.  N 
l,adwe'l,vanu.d  of  th.  dnli.-ulties  oi  getting  gam 
,        .0  many  d.tVerent  kinds  of  workmen  were  .e- 
„,ed-  the  one  who  ent  could  not  sew  and  tnce  versa, 
r    htma  made  our  good  eloth  gowns,  a  A.,a  nnnle  u,. 

wirdo  a  Mungol  won>an  made  the  unde- 
a..k,t.aud.-ollar..  punn,g>ilk  s, deh.ng  on  them. 
^   ,        (.i,,,,u.  .a>  well  .applied  w=<h  clothing  made 
in  Kncdisli  style,  having,  besides  a  little  fur  ja-jo,  or 
'l^^..  jacket,  a  fur  cape  and  ..o.  a,,  f..^.^- 
■  1  im,     •!  Tibetan  gown  aud  sa>h.  one 

„„.,  ,„  i!„„;,„-,         -luring  shopping,  bargnnu,^, 
raiHin,  l.i.  voire  in  approbation  a,  the  nat,v«  ta- 


T(»\VA1!I)  Tin:  TIl'.KTAX  CAl'!  TAl.  '-".l 

.,a,ne  oxc-it.-d  ovor  .  transaction,  and  taking  a  general 
(lolijilit  ill  llio  rntiiv  i.r.H.r.Uu--^. 

O,,  April  iK.l  an  ,nt...r-t.ng  viMl  Hon.  t  .  • 

Koi-luk  wl-  -  -  tho  Mongols  informca  us, 

^,  •!:..!,  pnnce  in  tho  Wu  Ts'aida.u.  hi.  .lu.nnnoi. 

^;llich  caravans        to  l.lia-a.     He  was  a  tall,  lallui 
Unit         ^.U  tl.  tr...  Mon.o,Un  typo  o  ac. 
a.wUhaturl.nc..w^^ 

in  vnrd^  around  lii>  lHM<l.     Ill   lui  I  " 
"u  tiu  including  .nanv  women,  among  wlmm  wa. 

.,f  c-lolli  around  tlic  boiloni  and  ui.  tl  o  ide.  I« 
,  .  ar...^^  hung  free  from  the  gowns,  displaying  und  - 
e let^  of  whi^o,  with  gr.™  cloth  tnmm.ng  stitched 

amulets  hung  in  front  of  the  gown     T     u  I 

;  „:  and  a  red  tassel  sumounting  the  peaked  cw,. 
giving  a  coquettish,  graceful  air  to  their  i;--";  J 
all  enjoved  their  visit  very  much,  the  peals  of  laugn  r 

at  Clonic,  the  sewing  ^f^'^^'^l^'Jf:: 
iddinc'  to  the  eniovmcnt  of  all.    ine  tmti 

o  have  a  pair  of  !cM  sewed  on  the  maeh„o 
ILt  he  Bent  a  man  to  the  street  to  bring  th.  cloll,,  « 


M  I  ■  * 


WITH  THK  TIHKTAN'S 


•  'M  hi-  iviuni  110  uiif  .  (.iild  cut  tlinii  out.     uv  ;rave  liiiii 
ii  piiir  of  Mr.  JJijuliiirtV  in  ivtuiii  inr  the  mikI 
he  i)rc>ciitetl  iis  with  ii  paic  ol'  i„ilu  (a  pjiro  is  u.^uuUv 
ten  leiigtlis  from  the  Ihip-r  tips  of  one  out^stl^■tc•hc(l 
I''*'  '"ii''n.  ai„l  ,,  |i,n,|,  ,,r  sugar  from 
luUia  by  way  of  IJm^a.    -I'l,,,  ,.ii„  f  Ii,,v,|  for  „s  two 
eunu-ls  to  tarry  i.,ad.-  a>  far  a-  ih,.  'r>-ai.lain,  lo  bo 
left  with  the  Dzassak  ..f  Barf.ng.  oath  one  to  tarry 
•'lo  catliis  ihr  luo  t,.  ,nM  ten  taols,  Worth  at  that 
lime  .^cvi'ii  dollars.    Thai  ni-iit  w..  workcl  until  niid- 
night,  sewing  hag.s  for  gram,  and  pat  king  two  huxes 
whitlj  containetK  among  other  things,  over  four  hundred 
'i'il.ctan  (iu>p,.ls.  and  tiiroe  iuiiidnd  of  Mrs.  (irimko's 
text  cards.    In  tlie  nioniin-  ,,irlv.  ihe  Mmo-uIs  c  ame  for 
the  loads.    .\s  uMiai,  tliere  wa>  tlie  reguhir  irniniMing 
at  the  weight,  a  i)reteiice  at  giving  back  iIk  nione\- 
l<eeau<e  the  Mnng„h<'  scales  were  ligliter  than  ours,  be- 
fore finally  the  caiiirl-  «...v  gently  made  \n  k,,.',  ].  th.-ir 
burdeiui  were  ti..d  on,  an.l  oil'  went  the  iir.sl  of  our 
goods  into  tlie,  for  us.  unknown. 

A<  \.  ^ii.pre,  iatrd  ill,.  ,|uiet  that  stalled  down  upon 
our  •■uuriyanl  after  the  hu-ile  ,,f  thai  drparturo 
was  over,  our  hearts  had  a  thankful  \rt  .tranire 
feeling,  as  we  spoke  of  the  kindness  '  the  native 
chiefs  had  invariably  shtjwn  us,  and  of  the  fu- 
ture with  it.  fnVnds  an, I  surroundings;  while 
Ani,  good  old  soul,  C(mgratulate(!  us  on  the  great  saving 
these  camels  would  be  to  our  horses  as  far  as  the 
Ts'aidam.  Nothing  was  too  mudi  trouble  for  hor  to 
(!o  in  the  way  of  Iielping  us.  and  oftentime-  t,.ar>  would 
l>edim  her  eyes  as  slie  lonk.-d  at  mo  and  bahv,  who 


TOW  AIfl)  TUK  TIIU:TA.\  (  Al'ITAI.  203 


ahv;i\>  laugiied  at  hor;  perhaps  thinking  of  her  loneli- 

llis.-  iiflcr  Wr  Were  •^oiic.  |H'rllil]K  of  till'  JiM^sihilitv  of 

our  not  rclurniny  to  Tankur,  and  even  of  the  uncer- 
tainty of  life  in  the  fur  interior.  My  heart  sometimes 
overflows  as  I  think  of  tlie  love  and  tenderness  of  thesse 

d.irk-f.ic'Ml  wntni'ii,  and  wi-li  i;  were  within  niv  power 
to  do  more  for  llieni,  to  bring  them  out  of  the  condition 
in  which  they  livo  into  the  liberty  whicli  the  gospel 
hrings  to  woman  wherever  it  is  known.    But  we  had 
to  hurry  witli  more  jiriparations,  and  l»y  May  '^0. 
We  were  ready  to  leave  our  home,  where  tlie  ;:reate>t 
gladness  had  been  ours,  where  our  mail  liad  come  to  us 
regularly,  where  bright,  long-loved  blossoms  had  added 
joy  and  v\veetne>>  to  our  lalxir  i»f  love  among  the  peo- 
ple, and  launch  out  into  new  jilaees  away  from  friend- 
aud  assoei'-tions,  as  well  as  the  possibility  of  getting 
letters  an. I   jjapers  from  the  I'omeland.     We  had 
dcemeil  if  wi>e  t'  give  up  our  hous,'.  over  whose  owner- 
ship I  here  had  oeen  a  lawsuit,  the  result   of  whicli 
made  it  un>afe  for  us  to  retain  it  during  our  absence; 
and  we  rented  three  rooms  in  another  courtyard  whore 
"c  >toi'cd  our  .--ewing  machine,  some  books,  and  other 
Uiin.i:-  We  did  not  want  to  take  with  u~.  the  lainllnrd 
I'loniising  that  we  could  liave  the  whole  house  iifxin  our 
return.    This  made  it  necessary  for  us  to  move  the 
ihings  to  he  li  ft,  at  the  .same  time  that  we  were  doing 
ilie  packing  of  what  we  wanted  to  take,  thereby  increas- 
ing our  work. 

Our  greatest  difliculty  was  the  securing  of  two  men 
to  accompany  us  on  the  journey,  and  for  a  long  time 
it  seemed  as  if  no  one  suitable  would  offer  for  service, 


2„i  WITH  iiii:  iii'>i:tans 

,u.n.,K,  HU.-Mv  r,.,,r  nf  ,„.nl-  n.  th.  inU-nor, 

^.h,:h  Ikp!  1  n  Muu  l.  ;n.,.n.-nu  a  1.  11..  lal..      -l  the 

,,arl,..fu.vl.v  ilH.  Mun  ofC.i.taiu  Wdll.v's  .■xpe.liUon. 
llow.v.T.  thruu^l.  n.;.l  frirmls  w  Mrun-I  tu..  nu-n  w h" 
,ouia  M«'ak  TilK-tuu.  Mo.,.-li.in  ;n,.l  r\uur.:  \hr 
ohWr.  .mnu.u  Ja-M.  wa^  vry  , lark.  tall,  u.  a,  ,n  lu.  alinv. 
,„  p,  ln>  iH-t  -ar.  an-l  a  i^.-at  swa;:^'.-  m  his 

,lnl,.  h-  kM.w  ..v..n thing  about  cvoryho. Iv  a.ul 
,v,.rv  i.hur.  an.l  ha-l  no  fi-ar  of  KoinjI  when'V.T  thr  -.r- 
eign  trarluT  wi.lu.>lln>n  to.    Tl.   v.um..  r.  na>n...l  .a- 
wa-  a  ivla.n.  nf  an  ..M  Muu^inl  ln,.wl  ul 
,.„>•>.  an.lwa-a  .!„„  l.  fat -far-.l.  lau;^]..,,^  l.nv -f  t  w.nty- 

,lwavs  hapi'.v.  ^"^--I'^  '^^  '"i 

.lood  .n  aw.,  inllurnr...!  hhn.    Of  tl-  l.knl 

,,..t,  lu.  .lUrMU.a,  ua.  Ifalnm.  wh.. 

„  .ort  nl-  ns,.,-.vr.  vva>  an  a.lq.l  at  AvaUu^X  ^v.th 
TiMan>  In.n  th.  n.t.rior.  Ja-si  Im.l  had  a  Fan-»s, 
wifr.  and  m.  wa.  Frfo.-1  n,  hl>  .nanm  r  tunard^  th.m, 
whilo  tia-rhncn-tsi  was  imrv  at  raM.  will,  M-._wl>. 
which  ,)r..l,al,l.v  a,.,-nun,.d  r,,,-  h,.  .l.-.Trul.  smooth 
w..  provided  tiu  m  all  with  vlolhin- and  bod- 

an>.'  a.  uM.ai.  j-nvinj.'  tlu'  rciativos  of  th.'  two  men  we 
had  just  hired  a  portion  of  tlu  n-  wap'-,  whu  h  w,  ,v  to 
1„.  four  ta,  l-  a  n..,nh  u,.h  thr  iindrMandin-  that  .1 
.V.  .out  Ihrmlu.k.  w,.  wc.,v  „,  ^,u.  them  yarh  a  hor.e 
,„  ,„K.  and  food,  vuh  a  p>n  if  they  served  us  well  all 
of  whieli  was  duly  i-ttt  into  an  agreement  signed  by 

pao-rer).  "  security." 

Our  M.i.plv  of  fo..d  was  mostly  ualive  and  coa.i^te-i 

of  the  fuliowing: 


Tf)\vAm)  Tin:  •niu:TAN  caimtai-  '.'o;. 


lilt)  lUltK'^ 


'I  si  nihil  (burli'v  rm-al). 


i:)0 
;{uo 
no 

10 
•JO 

•Ml 


Wlu-at  flour. 

Kua  mien  (vermicelli). 

Ui<f. 
liarltv. 
*•  Butler 

Brick  Tea. 

,,..„„^  tl..>>.'  native  Mipi'lie.-  ^'""<-'  stores  in- 

,,,„K.,1  niaii.lv  for  Clmrlie,  such  as  milk,  sago,  tapim'a, 
i-ornstarch,  arn.wroot,  oatm.al.  .tc-..  witli  ^"„h.  ....at 
..xtraa  an.l  >oui>-.  Tl,.  ,Mai„.  tluu,-.  a,,.!  rir.  wnv  put 
„„„  1,,..,  ,„a.l..  ..r  %vl..u-  .Inlln.-,  i.iM(le  coar.e  native 
wnnl.  i,  sKk>.  ju.l  >i/.e  to  .•..ustitute  one  half  a  load 
The  kua  mien.  st...vs  and  jiou.ls  l"...-  ha.-t.  r,..>r.  w.'.v 
,j  „,,„  1,,,,..  !;,nrr  vnv^\~\m^  i.iiUon-.  nmllcs. 
'  ,11-  ,,Ur.-  a...'  "uM  ilnva.l.  -l-th,  oiler  fur  and 

Loui's.  Our  .ha.->.  .  luihi.ig.  hchling.  instruments  h.K)k. 
,,„l  ,un,!,M..s  eMMM.t.U.Ml  the  rcniai.ulor  of  the  hm.  s, 
oxc,.pt  the  len'  .  ..f  wl.i.h  had  two,  on.  >...al U 
v",.,  v\^ann  white  one.  and  one  la.-e  dark  blue  one.  with 
„,,„  ,,,it-i.e^'s  1-nr  each.  Sueh  was  our  equipment  when 
the  hi=.t  hale  was  put  up  and  we  were  on  the  eve  ol 
leaving  the  gates  of  Tankar. 


3 

I 


CHArTER  XII 


FAIIEWKLL  10  TAXKAR 

Lt'iiviiifr  Faithful  Frienu- — Our  Caravan  Moves  Oil — 
'i'hrough  the  Gras.<  Country  to  the  Doterl — Two  Mon- 
gol Guifk'.s. 

Willi  the  help  of  our  two  men,  our  preparations 
Wi  re  nearly  all  complete  at  daybreak  on  the  twentieth 
of  May.  There  remained  yet  one  horse  to  buy,  and 
for  that  (if  course,  we  luul  to  pay  double  price,  a^  every- 
body knew  we  were  in  a  hurry.  After  breakfa-t  tiie 
hist  remains  of  our  hou.-ekeeping  at  Tankar,  the  ijig 
jiots,  were  removed  from  our  clay  range  and  taken  over 
to  tiie  storehouse  wliich  we  had  rented  for  two  years. 
Mr.  liijnliart  and  Mr.  I'ang,  a  Chinese  merchant  from 
the  eastern  gate  proceeded,  as  a  liiial  precaution  against 
thieves,  to  seal  up  the  doors  and  windoMs.  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Tang  wore  lintli  profuse  in  th'  ir  t!eni(ii).>trat ioic; 
of  kimhic-s  and  xilicituile  for  our  welfare,  the  laltei', 
just  before  our  departure,  bringing  us  a  delicious,  re- 
freshing dish  of  home-made  m'ien.  Other  friends  fol- 
lowed with  gift>  of  various  kinds,  principally  food  stuffs 
to  be  used  on  tlie  road.  Ani  and  Donai.  tlieir  eyes  moist 
with  tears,  attentive  to  the  very  last  and  unwilling  to 
yield  to  any  in  the  matter  of  bestowing  mementos, 

206 


lAKEWELL  TO  TANK AH 


broui:!''  c  ■  =»  set  of  artistically  woven  straps  with  whicli 
to  t'  p.  thi  ci-.-r-ticks  to  our  girdles.  One  by  one  the 
ho  K  -  ^'.>.ri'  r;>dt!"jd  and  led  out  into  the  street  where 
nia  ;  •  willing  h.i  ids  were  waiting  to  adjust  the  loads. 
All  along  tm  . '  ret  the  gateways  were  (illcd  witli  women 
and  children  wiio  had  come  out  to  watch  the  unusual 
scene.  Xo  greater  interest  could  have  been  manifested 
if  we  had  been  high  officials  or  great  Buddhist  digni- 
taries leaving  on  an  important  mission  or  pilgrimage 
to  some  di-tant  >lirine. 

As  soon  as  all  the  animal?  were  loaded  the  cara\an 
k'gan  to  move  slowly  toward  the  western  gate,  and 
within  a  few  moments  seventeen  of  our  jM.nie-  and  our 
lliree  men  disappeared  from  view.  Mr.  Kijnhart  and  1 
remained  behind,  knowing  that  we  eauld  easily  overtake 
them,  while  dear  old  faithful  Ani  brought  us  one  more 
pot  of  hot  tea.  of  which  we  partook  witli  fidl  hearts. 
Tli'Mi  we  vi.-iled  once  more  each  room  of  the  homi'  to 
which  we  had  become  so  attached,  as  if  we  had  a  sort 
of  half  unconscious  presentiment  that  we  would  for  a 
long  time,  and  jterhaps  never,  enter  it  again.  As  the 
term  for  which  our  rent  was  paid  had  not  yet  expired, 
we  locked  the  door  with  a  key  the  landlord  had  given 
us,  much  to  the  chagrin  of  his  opronent  in  the  law- 
suit, who  sto'^d  ready  to  rti>h  in  the  moment  we  wore 
gone,  and  claim  the  house  on  th<^  principle  that  "  pos- 
session is  nine-tenths  of  the  law."'  Then  taking  an 
affectionate  farewell  of  our  Chinese  friends,  many  of 
whom  we  had  learned  to  love  sincerely,  ami  followed  by 
the  more  demonstrative  Tibetans  and  Mongols,  men. 
women  and  children,  we  sadiy  marched  toward  the  great 


208 


W  ITH  Tin:  TIBETANS 


gate  wl.idi  all  tlu-  til.ir  ^^v  N^riv  dvv.iAny^.  «  rcal./.nl 
,„or."  vividlv  at  rvcTV  >tcp  hnw  many  dovetcil  frieiuU  it 
wouia  shut'aNvav  Inmi  us.  Uno  man  carried  baby,  ami 
all  remarked  ho^v  white  the  little  hands  looked  around 
his  dark  neck.  Doma  lu.lird  awav  crymg.  the  last 
good-bves  wore  said  at  the  eily  gate  and  we  sped  to 
overtake  our  caravan.  Such  a  heart  wrench!  We 
scarcely  realized  the  bond  there  was  between  us  and 
the  natives  until  we  came  to  part,  and  then  how  the 
toars  flowcMl  :  The  future  wa-  veiled,  or  we  nnglit  have 
lu'sitated— It  would  have  been  hut  luunan-and  stayed 
indefinitely  in  dear  old  Tankar. 

Never  had  the  country  around  about  seemed  so  beau- 
tiful.  Vegetable  gardens  and  harvest  tleUls  were  green  ; 
the  hills  presented  a  diilerent  shade  of  the  same  re- 
freshin   x.lor,  and  the  river  was  bright  and  shimmering 
in  the  distance.    A  blue  ha/.e  hung  over  the  mountain 
tops  which  beckoned  us  on.  lioMing  out  to  us  hopes  ot 
bri-htness  in  the  new  fields  of  labor  we  would  reach 
in  the  regions  bevond,  which  would,  in  a  measure,  com- 
pensate for  the  sorrowful  parting,  of  the  -lay.  Suddenly 
„ur  thou-hts  were  snatched  from  the  future  to  the  pres- 
ent bv  our  coming  in  sight  of  one  of  ..ur  horses  which, 
violentlv  obj.'eting  to  his  load,  finally  succeeded  m 
kicking  it  off,  and  smashing  tlie  saddle.    This  horse 
afterwanls  became  Ja-si's.  as  he  wouhl  never  allow  a 
load  to  be  put  on  his  back,  but  was  as  docile  as  a  child 
when  ridden.   The  experience  of  that  day  was  that  of 
every  caravan  on  the  first  day  of  its  march  ;  there  was 
the  usual  trouble  with  the  hor>es  and  almost  endless 
readjusting  of  baggage  and  saddles. 


FAREWKLl.  TO  TAXKAR 


209 


Skirting  llic  Usi-lui  wi'  i.as>ea  llic  'IVa-l.i-M,  where 
live<-  the  lama  who  had  made  some  of  our  clothing,  and 
reached  at  5:30  the  village  of  Pii-ucii-cliuan-tsi,  on  the 
opposite  side  of  tlio  riv»'r,  apnroaclinl  liy  a  cantilever 
bridge.  Here  we  pitched  our  tents  uliii-h  (ia-ehucii-tsi 
endeavored  to  make  look  as  gorgoi.ns  as  possible,  as  his 
people  lived  in  the  village  and  he  wislied  to  present  a 
good  appearance.  We  had  a  tim.  of  foa-ting  and  an- 
other serit's  of  good-byes  accoiniianicd  witli  presents 
of  potato(^s,  cakes,  bread  and  milk,  with  peas  and  straw 
for  our  horses.  This  is  the  very  last  cultivated  land, 
all  the  country  beyond  l)eing  Imo-H  or  grass  country. 

As  we  were  jo  spend  Sunday  at  (Joniba  Soba*  willi 
friends,  we  started  next  morning  and  in  a  short  time 
reached  the  lamasery,  the  same  one  we  sneaked  past  ou 
our  proposed  visit  to  the  lake  with  Ishinima  in  1?9.j.  I 
may  ^ay  in  pas^^ing  that  the  lamasery  is  rightly  located 
liy  Mr.  W.  W.  Kockhill  in  his  "Land  o*!  the  Lamas" 
and  that  Capt.  Wellby  is  (luite  wrong  in  his  attempt  to 
correct  him.  Here  wa-  ihe  home  of  Tsanga-Fuyeh. 
tile  biggest  "'living  buddha  "  in  tlie  lania-ery.  wlio  bad 
lieen  so  instrumental  in  securing  friends  for  us  llirougii 
reeommending  us  as  doctors,  and  the  dear  old  man  came 
to  our  tent  to  visit  us  accompanied  by  his  young  lama 
acolvto,  brin<j;ing  a  ]iarcel  of  sultanas  and  a  klinlM.  lie 
warned  us  about  rolib(M-s  and  passes,  and  exhorted  us  to 
liurry  back  to  I'ankar  Ijcfore  he  died,  that  he  might 
see  us  again  in  this  life.  He  also  gave  us  a  beautiful 
isainba  basin,  and  a  horse  already  saddled.    In  apprc- 


*  Ttiis  lamaserv  is  also  known  ti  Gomba  Soma 
districts  "  Soba"  18  tb«  word  lor  "new"  and  " 
asery." 


"  Soma,"  and  in  »oma 
Gomba"  means  "  IWD- 


210 


WITH  rill-: Tir.KTAXs 


ciatiui,  ..f  his  cn.irtr>y  wr  -avc  liim  a  (rMhrv  pillow, 
which  lu'  thought  wa.s  a  most  won.k'iliil  nucnlion.  r.«r 
ii  while  he  seemed  utterly  to  lose  himself  in  the  delight 
of  shaking  it  iip  and  down  tiH  it  ^welled  to  its  utmost 
limit,  then  sitting  on  it  and  ivdneing  it  again.  Pei- 
ruyih.  a  "living  huddha     uf  the  stine  rank,  had  hi. 
treasurer  living  at  (lomhr.  Soha,  and  this  man,  who 
had  long  been  a  friend  of  ours,  brought  u-  a  large  lump 
,:f  l.ci'  Migar.  a  paivrl  ..f  dates  and  a  liille^cnamcl 
pilchrr  f..r  Charlie.    Sunday  evening  a  party  of  travel- 
ors  eami)ed  heside  us,  eonsi>ting  nf  the  wife  an.  voung 
son  of  a  Wang-yeh  of  the  Mongols,  anoth.rr  Mnng.-l 
woman  with  her  little  girl,  and  three  nun.    Thev  had 
„i,„,t,,,,  ,„„!.>  and  hordes  and  invited  us  to  travel  with 
them.    The  two  ehildren  wi're  about  twelve  years  of 
a-e,  dressed  in  eloth,  the  boy's  elothing  having  a  pre- 
dominance of  vellow  indieating  his  ra!d<.    They  were 
betrothed,  and' were  being  tak.Mi  to  Lha-a  t.)  worship 
and  be  l)les.<ed  by  the  Dalai  Lama  before  entering  life 
together.   It  was' refreshing  to  see  them  enjoy  play,  and 
raUicr  pitiful  to  see  them  lied  by  their  feet  to  the  stir- 
rups when  about  to  f.,rd  river^.  for  fear  of  a  dizziness 
overcoming  them,  causing  them  to  fall  oil'.    The  boy  s 
mother  was  intelligent,  well  dressed  and  very  dean, 
oven  washing  her  teeth,  though  her  finger  was  her  only 
hnish. 

The  Irj  broke  camp  before  daylight,  traveling  a 
few  hours  and  then  allowing  their  animals  the  whole 
day  to  graze.  Although  we  did  not  start  with  them 
each  morning,  vet  we  always  overtook  them  and  were 
camped  alongside  them  every  day.   The  Mongol  w.mien 


FAREWELL  TO  TAXKAR  211 


would  invite  iiie  iiiid  C'harlio  into  tlicir  tent  to  rest 
and  drink  tea,  while  their  uieu  would  help  is  to  unload 
our  animals  and  i)ileli  our  tent.-^.    Xativ*  -  are  adeptrs 
iit  M'hrtin^;-   l)eautii'ul   camping   spots,  and   when  we 
v.ould  tee  the  eneampinents  oi"  the  /.'vy/rts  in  the  dis- 
tance, the  white  tents  of  various  size  and  shapo  with 
hundreds  of  horses  and  mules  irrazin:'  ahout,  the  lux- 
uriant gi'a>s  and  low  rolling  hill>,  i'.    po'  trv  ol"  it  all 
i-iruek  respon^i\x■  chords  in  our  hearts.  J.ate  in  the  after- 
noon the  men  from  the  various  tents  wont  out  and 
drove  in  their  mules  and  horses,  to  receive  t'u  ir  appor- 
tionment of  split  peas.    How  tame  -omc  of  the  nuilcs 
won',  going  up  to  the  tent  d'>ors  and  snitling  alwut, 
;ind  asking  in  as  plain  a  manner  as  possible  for  food. 
By  and  by  they  were  tethered  and  saddled  ready  for 
the  morning,  then  the  men  gatlurcd  ahout  drinking 
their  tea,  and.  as  dusk  settled  down  near  us  all,  their 
voices  were  heard  from  near  and  far  chanting  prayers, 
accompanied  by  the  ringing  of  bells.    Then  quiot 
reigned  and  everyone  slept  well. 

The  average  march  the  first  days  was  twelve  miles, 
our  road  going  through  a  widc>  valley,  then  along  the 
Ilsi-lio  for  ten  miles,  crossing  a  tributary  and  on  for 
thirty  miles,  where  we  camped  on  the  norlliuot  corner 
of  •■!  little  lake,  really  a  hay.  cut  oil'  from  the  Koko-nor 
hv  drifting  sand,  and  called  Baga-nor.  The  country 
was  on  the  whole  grassy  and  well  watered,  affording 
the  nomads  good  pasturage.  Manv  :Mongol  tents  were 
dotted  on  (Mther  side  of  the  road  in  the  sheltered  places 
and  wherever  the  green  fodder  was  most  plentiful. 
Some  Tibetans  were  also  r  amped  near  the  streams  that 


212  WTTTT  TTIE  TIBETANS 

flow..l  lino        Iv-kn-iK.r.    Cro.-^.ing  tlio  Balonui  gol, 
wo  caunHHl  again  oi.  the  slioivs  (.f  tlie  Koko-nor,  nex 
,lav  crosst-a  the  Iki  Olan,  probably  the  ?anio  as  called 
n'on  Muren  bv  RockhiU,  tlmn^'b  t1u>  but.r  nam.  tbo 
n.tivr,  ,lonot'~..-.n  toknnw  at  ail.    On  Sunday,  imu-li 
to  our  rc<n-ot.  wc-  swiv  ohU-vd  U>  part  with  the  h,pos, 
they  going  on  at  their  usual  early  hour,  and  we  re- 
maining behind  to  rest  for  the  dav.    Tl.e  p.opV  Iront 
,1„,  tcnl^  nf   tlio  nomad-  in  \\n-  n.'i-hhorliood  eame 
nhout       froelv.  and  we  did  H).ne  d.H'toring,  for  which 
we  got  a  fat  sheep.    We  also  gave  away  some  Tibetan 
Scriptures  and  text-cards.     Xo  missionary  had  ever 
been  in  this  loeality  b-fore.    Tho  n.vt  .tage  of  our 
ionrnev  led  u-  through  one  of  the  sui.poscd  robber  dis- 
"trici^  'and  v.o  did  not  feel  any  too  comfortable  when 
we  saw  that  wo  wore  being  spied  by  four  m^-n  :  snddrn  y 
thev  disappeared  over  a  inll.  and  after  a  little  while 
reapi^eared  over  another  hill  near  the  road,  heavily 
,rmod    On  seeing  our  men  ready  with  their  rifles  to 
'defend  our  stuff,  they  rode  up,  asked  a  few  simple 
questions  and  nassed  on.    Shortly  afterward  we  met  the 
rhicf  nf  the  Wortuir  Tibetans  who  had  a  large  cara- 
van and  he  said  the  four  men  were  robbers.  We 
erossed  the  bed  of  the  Buha  gol,  the  most  unpoitant 
river  in  the  district,  although  we  found  it  nearly  dry. 
,nC  camped  on  o..e  of  its  tributaries     l/;'^'^'  ^^e  saw 
lar-e  herds  of  kiang  or  wild  mules,  called  by  the  Chi- 
nese ie  man  or  wild  horses.   They  are  not  more  than 
fourteen  hands  in  height,  and  are  beaut i full v  colored, 
li^ht  brown  on  the  back,  gradually  fading  into  white 
on  the  bellv.    Thev  have  long  cars  and  tads  like  an 


FAREWELL  TO  TANKAR 


213 


ordinary  mule,  are  always  founil  in  herds  and  families 
and,  when  trotting  or  gall(n»i''r^  f-^"  '■'"c'^'  '^^^^ 
iinimals  were  oxci'edingly  bold,  couiing  quite  near  our 
i.  nis  and  mingling  with  our  horses.  They  are  orna- 
mental rather  than  useful,  the  Tibetans  in  vain  hav- 
iiiiT  tritd  to  tanip  them  for  d(>lm■^ti(■  use. 

In  this  >\,n\  wliere  the  grass  was  so  good  we  halted 
f..r  a  rest,  and  Kahim  provided  us  with  a  most  refres-h- 
ing  repast  in  the  shape  of  twelve  fishes  which  he  had 
taught  with  his  hands  in  tlie  stream.  A  Tibetan  came 
two  days'  jMurney  offering  us  a  large  iiieci'  of  grecu 
,l,  nim  in  exchange  for  medicine.  He  had  heard  from 
other  Tibetans  that  some  wonderful  doctors  were  jiass- 
ing  through,  and  did  not  want  to  miss  an  opportunity 
of  consulting  w- 

The  next  part  of  the  road  took  us  through  a  part 
of  the  country  with  poor  grass,  and  over  a  pass,  at  tin? 
top  -f  wliich  was  a  large  obo,  a  heap  of  stones,  with 
],ri,v(.r-tlag>  living  from  the  to]..    On  nearly  all  the 
j.a.-.es  ih(^^e  oboa  are  to  be  found.    In  all  probability 
they  were  originally  intended  simply  as  landmarks  to 
point  out  the  road, "as  :^nialler  mud  ones  are  still  in  u>e 
for  that  purpose:   but  the  mountain  obos  have  long 
since  taken  on  a  religious  sigiulkance.    Whenever  the 
natives  reach  the  oho  at  the  top  of  a  difficult  pass  they 
all  dismount,  eacii  throws  a  stone  on  the  heap,  and  pass- 
ing to  the  right  of  it.  all  join  in  chanting  their  grati- 
tude to  the  god  of  the  mountain  for  helping  them  to 
ascend.   We  have  frequently  seen  our  men  observe  this 
somewhat  romantic  ceiviu'.ny.  and  they  were  much  per- 
plexed that  we  did  not  follow  their  example.    All  that 


214 


WITH  THF.  TIBETANS 


day  wo  ^inrched  in  vain  for  water,  and,  when  (Mncrging 
frniii  .1  rcjoicfil  In  a  >parkling  lake,  but 

it  tnrni  il  oiil  to  Ijl-  llu-  Tala-(lal)c^un-uor,  a  salt  lake, 
nearlv  iliv.    Deviating  from  our  direct  southwesterly 
route,  we  found  good  '^v:\"  an.l  frc-li  water  aliout  eight 
mile-  nort!i  of  the  lake,  and  learned  tiiai  the  apparent 
dronglit  was  eausod  !iy  llie  native-  having  drained  off 
nil  the  water  for  the  pur])osc  of  irrigation.    This  dis- 
triet  would  Ir  wcaliliy  but  for  an  inroad  of  -southern 
Tihelaii-  pr.)l,ai)iy  from  across  the  Yellow  llivei',  who 
drove  oil'  .-.(l.OUO  head  uf  eallle  and  .duep  at  one  sweep, 
reducing  the  entire  settlement  to  poverty.  Knowing 
that  we  were  Hearing  a  marsh  and  that  our  trail  was 
not  anv  too  distinct,  we  hired  two  Mongols,  and,  as  is 
the  eusloni  in  this  part,  paid  tlu'ir  wage.s  in  advance 
to  a  middleman,  a  native  doctor,  who  stood  as  guaran- 
tee for  the  good  conduct  and  fidelity  of  the  men.  They 
were  to  take  iis  to  Barong.    We  learned  that  the  Tala- 
dabesun-nor  is  called  thus  to  distinguish  it  from  Serkin 
Dahosun-nor ;  the  former  belongs  to  Tsing  hai  Wang's 
district,  the  latter  to  the  Korluk  Bei-si  district. 

'i'l:c  two  "Mong(ds  were  type<,  one  of  them  an  <dd 
man,  thin,  sharp  featured,  and  very  talkative  and  agree- 
able, the  other  a  lama  who  had  a  wife  whom  he  had 
stolen  from  another  man  near  Barong.  Therefore  he 
v,as  anxious  not  to  pas-  through  her  native  settlement. 
He  was  young,  round-faced,  with  shaven  head,  and  kept 
to  himself,  counting  bead  ,  and  burning  scapulae  to 
see  what  fortune  had  in  store.  Whenever  he  saw  peo- 
ple, he  ili.-ajipcared  sn  a-  not  to  be  seen  by  them  for 
fear,  we  presumed,  of  being  recognized.    Our  Mongols 


FAREWELL  TO  TAXKAR 


215 


at  WrA  iiiM  .1(1  iii'on  going  a  m)U11utii  mail  to  Baroiig, 
sa\in-  it  was  sliuiUT  and  thoiv  wa.;  not  f=o  luiuh  <lau- 
•:yv  ofbcing  lost  in  tlu;  imir<li ;  l.m  f.ann-  ihr  Mi.l.lcn 
[".ppearatuv  nf  luaraiidiii-  l>ainK  m'  Tilu  laii-  fn.m  south 
(,r  tlic  ViHow  KiMT,  wi'  ikriilcil  m|mmi  the  iiorllurn 
ivad.    'i'lii.  load  M  u[)  towards  a  pa.-s  named  Shara 
Kuto,  and  when  alwut  ten  miles  from   the  top  we 
stopixd  wluiv  tliere  wa-  <:oo.l  -Ta^s,  and  water  ilowed 
in  a  small  stivaiu  intrnnitteutly ;  one  moment  tliere 
was  water  and  the  ne\t  moment  there  was  none.  The 
p.  ople  there  were  well-to-do,  the  women  wearing  their 
sheepskins  in  the  early  morning,  and  when  tiie  snn 
.rrew  warmer  puitin^  on  their  i>idu  gowns.    1  fell  sorry 
Itjr  oi.e  poor  young  woman  who  had  the  .Mongol  head- 
tlress,  and  uiwn  asking  her  how  that  eame,  she  replieil 
that  .-he  was  a  Mongol  whom  a  Tibetan  had  secured  for 
a  wife.    The  morality  of  tlie  people  just  here  was  at  a 
h.wer  ebb  than  in  many  other  places,  the  women  espe- 
cially acting,  even  in  our  presence,  in  an  unseemly 
manner.    Next  day  we  were  much  refu-hed  by  sei'iug 
evergreen  trees,  the  first  trees  of  ai\y  kind  we  had  seen 
since  the  day  we  left  home,  and  we  were  also  rejoiced 
to  camp  on  level  ground  on  the  southern  bank  of  the 
Dulan  gol,  in  sight  of  the  Duiaa  Si  on  the  ojtposlte  >uh 
of  the  ri\er,  wliile  to  th-  northeast  was  the  Tsahan- 
nor.  a  small  lake  hidden  from  sighi  in  its  sheltered 
spot  enclosed  by  three  hills.  Dulan  Kao  is  a  very  small 
cluster  of  houses,  composed  mo:-tly  of  lamas"  home-  and 
the  residence  of  the  prince  of  the  Tsing  liai,  all  built 
of  mud  brick  surround-d  by  walls.    The  trail  on  the 
north  !)ank  of  tln'  river  is  covered  with  stoues,  but  Mr. 


TH1  PRO'=>EaTY  OF 

-^:arb  OHIO 

PUBLIC  LIBRARY. 


21»{  WITH  THE  TIBETAN'S 

li'ijiiliart  iiml  iiiiliiiii  luiivui  d  that  ruail  while  our  lara- 
van  stnvfil  on  the  mhuIi,  crossing  latvr  ami  camping  on 
till'  iKHlli  hank,  whcii-  there  was  ^'o.mI  <:ra>-,  and  plenty 
111'  the  iii'i-t  lihiudthir-ly  iiiiw(|UitiM'>.  |)iihiii  Kao  a-  well 
a-  In  iiiu  thr  (  ainial  thr  win ij-iji  It's  doniiiiions  .-oiMnod 
al.-i)  tn  \)v  jii-t  m-i<U'  ihf  houmhirv  of  the  niostpiito  dis- 
tricl.  for  the  Mon^iols  had  tohl  us  hlood-curdling  tales 
of  those  pests  when  we  passed  the  village,  and  we  found 

thl'lll  nlilv    tiM)  I  l  Uf. 

\\v  wvw  iit)\\  I'ai  111^'  the  I'auimis  niar>h,  whciv  tr.ivel 
was  impossible  unless  along  narrow  trails,  which  were 
often  not  to  he  found  except  by  the  help  of  the  ;;uides. 
The  iiorth.a-!  I'.irt  (if  llic  ]ilam  wa~  iiiltivalcil.  wa- 
it red  Sy  ini^alinii  ilitches;  tile  soiitlicrii  ua>  tiie  uiar.-h 
uiiii  h  we  i'miiiil  (ptite  dry  along  the  trail,  and  only  had 
dilliculty  once  crossing  a  small  stream,  although  our 
,\lnn;:<>I.-  a>Mireil  u-  that  had  it  not  lireii  dry  weather 
we  iiiiulil  lia\r  t'oiiinl  it  im|i.i~-a!iK'.  There  wi'i'e  two 
lakes  ill  this  large  plain,  between  w'niili  our  road  lay; 
the  larger  one  was  .Serkin  l)ai)esun-nor,  the  western 
half  of  which  was  <lry  salt  and  saltpetre.  It  receives  its 
water  sup|il\  rmiii  the  K  ;i>a  gi.'  llowiiig  frnm  Diilan- 
iior.  ain!  aii"tlier  >treain  t'rnni  the  \ve,-t.  The  Dulaii 
nor  is  I'eil  In  the  Dill  n  g'  i  which  tlows  past  Dulan 
Kao.  After  ])assing  the  nuirsh  we  halted  about  a  mile 
north  of  the  Timurte  mountains  and  south  of  the 
Dahesuii-nor,  where  we  came  across  a  cain)*  recently 
ucciipied  by  the  Avv/wa'.  Here  We  found  only  brackish 
\  .r.  O'T  route  continued  in  a  south  gouthwest  di- 
recti(m.  mountain  ranges  on  either  side  of  us,  at  first 


FAREWKLI.  TO  TANUAU  -M7 

„r  dolt'i-il.-.  ilu'ii  i.ii.l.lit.     t'.n.'  fhansriuir  finully  into 

Th,.  snul-hill-  in.n  t- 

,,f  K„kn  linlrh,  too  lu,  r.  I  !    •   !»,,,  .ilalioM. 

l,ut    ro.n..-.l  ov.T  b>   li-r.l-     '  k  ^H"-  .  I  anU-lo,...,. 

Wlu'U  wi'  tiuiu-  witluii  M.'r    .1  ill.'  Ii.  '  ■  ill"  'I'-  '  '-"« 

l„,rM-.  i.n.l  ti:  nm.:.  .  -.iill'  -J  m  tlir  uiu-xi..  In'<- 
.Inni.  M-aiuiHMV.i  iisv,,  m  tin  .lirwtioi.  ..f  ho.n-.  Ah 
wv  ?at  bv  iIh-  roiuisido  waning:  until  U.ilum  -lioui.i  luiii^' 
l,i,r  l.!i..k.  tif  -u.—  tnhl  u-  ilM  iv  s>a^  uai.T  arout.  i 

r  ,,1  ll:  ■  h.-l  lull  !m  l'' ■    '■•■■I'l  <liiv-tiy  ;p-.a  ti-Mi 
tl„.  ina.l.    V     1   ll.r  poiiv  -n^sU  an.l  i     loa.l  iv- 

a.ljiuti'tl       .■ru>>i'(l  the  riwr  „.  ^1  wImtc  [\u-  r-  .  '  wa. 
nut  iv.-o;^ni/.al.l.A  unl  v.,,:.-1i.m1  Taliii  Tnr_'..n.  wln  r,'  u. 
f,„„Hl  :.  I>a-  '  ol  l.a.l  -.aN  r       the  .ulr  of  a  luM,  but 
„l,„„.h„Hv  ol   -ra-  and  ino-,,,iito(-     Wl.iU'  w-  wviv 
striking  canii'  tho  m-\t  morning  six  .ift-r  >u(M,.n!y 
.liirt.Ml  froiu  111.'  un.i.ThiM^h  iirar  u~.  follnuv.l  shortly 
,,f„.nvar.t^  l.v  a  hrar.    Wr  w.'iv  all  nioiuitr,!,  >o  no  at- 
„,niion  v.a.'l.aul  to  llio  .Uvr.  Lilt  Uahim  askcxl  per- 
mission   to    have    a    shot    at    bruin,    whirl.  l..ing 
.rranted  ho  .M::ri.  ?  i"   ,  l''!!"^^'"' 
HMiks  fn.-n  the  ol.l.T  Moi  ^ol  as  -  No  goo.l  wilU'onu' 
,.;  ,t.    TlioH"  animaU  aiv  not  to      touched."    Wo  saw 
l.oy  ii   the  distance  dismount  and  tie  his  hor-e  to 
some  l".rush,  when  the  bear  re!  m.d.  as  we  afM  rward^ 
-av..  IT  her  eul».  wh.'n-npon  the  Mongol  jumped  oil 
hi<  horse,  jrot  his  -un  ready  for  linng,  .-a\nig,  "  He  is 
,„„H„.,  he  is  oonung;  we  will  all  be  killod."  and  then 
told  us  a  -tory  of  eight  men  who  had  l)eon  killed  by 


WITH  THE  TIBETAXS 


a  Ijcar  Iji'causo  one  of  tlicm  liad  atlatkcd  liiiii.  Jiisl 
as  Mr.  Uijaliart  wa»  alarliiig  to  l{ahim".-  roscue,  the 
two  bcart^  turned  ami  made  off  with  rapid  strides  to- 
wards the  hills.  Uahim's  horse  had  run  away  ami  Iio 
caim^  toward-  us.  his  eyes  full  of  fear,  and  told  us  how 
llic  "wild  man"  (ihe  Chinc.-o  and  sonic  Mongols  call 
hears  ie-,ni,  wild  men)  had  stood  up  and  looked  at 
him,  and  how  having  fired  all  his  cartridges  he  took 
Ills  >word  in  his  hand  and  cn^pt  away.  He  never 
wanted  to  shoot  a  Ijear  afterwards.  The  old  .Mongol 
carried  a  sear  as  a  result  of  the  episode,  for  in  dis- 
mounting quickly,  his  gun  had  struck  his  head  and 
made  a  deep  ga~h.  Tie  took  some  of  the  tinder  (s(  (n'(  lu'd 
edelweiss,  a  lluiry  vegetable)  and  put  it  in  the  wound 
to  stop  the  bleeding. 

We  were  glad  to  find  a  pleasant  camping  ground  to 
the  right  of  the  road  on  the  banks  of  the  Sulini  gol  in 
whicli  was  ilic  best  water  we  had  for  tiays  and  along 
whose  banks  our  horses  fountl  good  green  grass.  Here 
our  lama-guide  deserted  us,  taking  off  with  him  the 
pot  and  food  the  two  of  them  expected  to  use  on  their 
ivturn  journey.  Krgetsu.  the  next  camp,  was  an 
oasis  in  the  desert,  there  being  good  water  and  grass, 
but  the  march  the  day  following  was  through  weari- 
some sand  dunes  until  we  ]iassed  the  Sahara  gol,  where 
(inr  second  guide  dc-erted  Happily  wi'  found  good 
water,  but  were  agaiu  nearly  eaten  up  by  nioscpiitoes. 
From  this  pest  a  piece  of  fine  netting  saved  baby  and 
me,  while  Mr.  Rijnhart  kept  a  smoky  fire  all  the  tiui.- 
in  the  other  tent;  while  traveling  we  wore  /,7/r//r/.s 
sewed  into  veils.    .Afl-T  pa<-iiig  the  Tso  gul  springs 


lARKWKLL  TO  TANKER 


210 


\rc  loist  our  way  and  went  on  and  on  through  a  very  wide 
dry  river  bed,  in  the  bottom  of  which  there  had  rocontly 
lii'cn  riiniiiiiLr  water,  but  wliitli  was  now  covorod  only 
Willi  yih\  earth.  Towards  dusk  a  small  parly  of  Mon- 
-nls  who  had  been  farming  over  the  hills  and  who 
were  moving  their  encampment  to  Barong,  stoi)ped  be- 
;  idc  us.  They  toM  us  thai  the  dry  river  l)ed  was  that 
(if  the  liayan  gol.  in  eros>inji  wliieh  Kockliill  had  e.\- 
perieiiced  sueh  dillicuUy  owing  to  the  mud.  At  their 
kind  invitation  we  followed  the  Mongols  to  their  camp 
alonu  a  road  v.liich  led  tlirough  a  brushwood  thicket 
in  wliieii  lilooniefl  aii  abumlanee  of  liowers  resenil)ling 
v|)irea,  exeepl  that  they  were  pink,  llow  gladly  wo 
plucked  them,  for  we  had  not  seen  a  flower  since  leaving 
Tankar.  The  ^longol  women  decked  their  hair  with 
them,  and  seeine(l  to  icjoice  with  us  that  the  desert 
and  all  its  barrenness  was  past  anil  we  were  again  in 
the  midst  of  flowing  water,  green  grass  and  fresh  food. 


CHAPTER  XllI 


IN  THE  TS'AIDAM. 

The  Tsaidam  <  id  its  People — Polyandry  and  Cruelty 
to  the  Aged — The  DzasBak  of  Barong — Celebration 
of  Baby's  Birthday — Missionary  Prospects. 

We  had  now  arrived  in  the  Ts'aidani,  a  large  plain 
i^onu'  M.\  liuiiilnMl  iiiilt's  t'loiii  (';i>t  to  \V('^I  lyin^^  north 
of  the  Kueuluu  Mountains.  It  is  called  Wu  Ts'aidain 
by  the  Chinese  (\Vu  means  five)  because  it  is  divided 
into  five  states,  Taichiner,  Korluk,  Koko,  Dsun  and 
Barong.  The  small  district  of  Sluing  east  of  Uarung 
is  also  usually  included  in  the  Ts'aidani,  although  po- 
litically it  is  distinct.  It  was  given  by  the  Mongol 
princes  to  the  Dalai  Lama  and  is  governed  by  a  rep- 
resentative from  Trashirunpo  who  is  changed  every 
five  years.  The  other  states  are  governed  under  the 
authority  of  the  iSining  Anil)an  by  jiongol  princes, 
each  of  whom  receives  annually  a  government  grant  of 
rrouL  one  hundred  taels  and  four  pieces  of  satin,  to 
twelve  hundred  taels  and  eigiit  ]iieces  of  satin.  The 
.sitin  is  called  inanytuan,  being  of  a  special  design  orna- 
mented with  yellow  dragons  and  used  exclusively  by  the 
chiefs,  and  to  adorn  temples.  It  is  worth  from  twelve 
to  twenty  taels  a  piece,  according  to  the  quality.  The 

320 


IN  THE  TS'AIDAM 


221 


population  of  the  five  states  is  estimated  at  from  8,000 
to  16,000,  for  the  most  part  Western  ^Mongols,  but 
among  them  are  found  many  Ea^torn  ^longol  himas 
who  are  here  allowed  to  have  wives,  a  privilege  which 
is  denied  them  in  Inner  Tibet  or  Mongolia.  The 
Ts'aidam  Mongols,  as  far  as  we  were  able  to  ascertain, 
practice  polyandry,  and  marriages  arc  often  arranged 
for  a  limited  length  of  time.  It  is  not  uncommon  for 
traders,  Chini'se,  .Mongolian  or  Tilietan.  to  secure  wives 
for  a  certain  period  of  time,  perhaps  six  months,  a 
year  or  two  years,  and  when  they  go  to  their  own  liomef? 
agaiii.  the  eliildren  are  left  w.  ii  tlie  so-eailed  wife.  As 
a  rule  the  Chinese  look  down  upon  the  very  loose  mar- 
riage laws  prevailing  among  these  nomads,  but  in 
Tankar  a  respectable  Chinese  woman  told  me  that 
Chinamen  often  rented  or  leased  tlieir  wives  to  otiier 
men  for  a  time  varying  from  one  day  to  several  years. 
Though  this  may  be  done  in  that  locality  I  have  no 
idea  that  it  is  a  usual  occurrence  in  China,  and  is  prob- 
ahly  a  custom  horn  of  contact  witli  the  nomads.  Tlirre 
is  another  thing  which  stamps  the  inhabitants  of  the 
Ts'aidam  very  low  in  the  scale  of  civilization  and  hu- 
manity, and  reveals  their  need  of  the  socially  uplifting 
influence  of  Cliristianity,  and  that  is  their  treatment  of 
the  aged.  In  many  cases  the  old  peo]iIe  as  soon  as  tliev 
are  no  longer  able  to  work  are  ejected  from  the  hoiis(^ 
or  tent,  and  compelled  to  eke  out  their  remaining  days 
in  a  cave  or  on  a  dunghill,  when>  tliey  soon  succumb 
from  exposure  or  lack  of  nourisliment.  For  most  ca-cs 
of  such  treatment  the  daughtor-in-law  is  responsible. 
Almost  immediately  upon  entering  the  home  she' as- 


222  WITH  THE  TIBETAN  S 

8umcs  a  tyrannical  authority  over  her  hu>^l)and"s  pa- 
rents, making  it  exceedingly  uucomfortable  for  them, 
doiiyiiig  them  tlie  nec•c^.<itic•^  of  life,  and  never  ceasing 
until  in  exasperation  lier  liu.band  is  goaded  on  to  the 
cruel  deed.   Many  of  the  natives  speaking  with  us  on 
this  matter,  said  how  much  better  it  was  to  have 
daughters  than  suns,  for  the  parents  who  had  daughters 
onlv,  w(nild  not  run  tiie  same  risk  of  being  cast  off  in 
their  helplessness  at  the  instigation  of  a  daughter-in- 
law.    In  strong  contrast  to  the  treatment  of  the  aged 
hy  the  Ts'aidam  :\I<)ngols  is  the  filial  piety  of  the  Chi- 
nese, which  is  occasionally  earned  to  excess,  the  old 
people  being  allowed  the  role  of  tyrant,  sometimes 
beating  their  grown-up  sons  and   daiighteiv  severely 
with  1°)  resentment  or  retaliation  from  the  latter. 

The  Mongols  iire  exceedingly  polite  in  their  way. 
When  two  stranger.-  meet  they  hold  out  both  hands  with 
the  palms  turned  upward,  and  make  a  graceful  bow  ut- 
tering the  salutation  Ahiiir  ^nwhlua.    A  present  is  ae- 
knouiedge.l  simpb'  bv  holding  it  up  to  the  forehead  ;they 
have  no  words  to  express  thanks.   Their  religion  is  as 
i-onspicuous  as  their  politeness.    While  attending  to 
their  daily  duties,  whether  drawing  water,  tending  the 
flocks  gathering  ufjoh.  churning  butter,  or  whatever 
it  may  be,  tl-ev  never  cease  to  mumble  prayers.  Be- 
sides this,  each  settlement  supports  a  number  of  lamas 
who  are  engaged  to  chant  for  them,  and  thus  as-i>t 
them  in  the  accumulation  of  merit.    These  Mongol, 
seemed  quite  averse  to  accepting  the  copies  of  the  Gos- 
pels in  Tibetan  which  we  offered  them,  but  the  kopas. 
wha  were  then  trading  in  the  district  through  which 


IX  THE  TS  AIDAM 


223 


we  paf*seil,  look  tlieni  with  great  eagerness  and  appari'iit 
{ik'asurc.  Mo.-t  of  the  Mongols  here  are  noinads,  iil- 
though  they  do  some  farming,  raising  all  the  barley 
they  require.  Whether  they  engage  in  agriculture  or 
arc  pure  nomads  they  nnist  pay  a  certain  titlie  of  tlieir 
income  in  taxes  to  their  chief.  They  dwell  iu  teats; 
the  houses  wliicli  compose  the  villages  are  of  a  very  in- 
ferior order  and  are  used  mostly  as  storerooms.  The 
village  of  Barong,  the  h.ime  of  the  d'Mssah-.  or  chief,  is 
cdiiiposed  of  a  few  niud-l)rick  dwellings  and  i<  situated 
about  eight  miles  from  the  foot  of  the  Kuenlun  moun- 
tains. The  food  of  the  Mongols  here  is  the  same  as 
that  of  the  Tibetans,  and  like  the  latter  they  make  wine, 
and  also  a  sort  nf  koumiss  from  mare's  milk. 

They  are  good-natured,  simple,  cowardly  enough  to 
he  afraid  of  the  Tibetans,  and  proverbially  honest, 
though  from  experience  we  found  it  best  not  to  trust 
Ihom  implicitly.  The  .-poi  wliere  we  were  encamped 
was  ratlier  low  ground,  and  in  the  center  of  a  Lirge 
encampment  of  Mongols,  very  near  to  some  of  their 
tents.  The  grass  was  excellent  as  was  alsd  tlie  water, 
anil  considerable  nnderl)ru>h  stretclie<l  ahout  us.  When 
it  rained  the  place  was  turned  into  a  veritable  mud- 
hole,  tlie  ground  being  of  a  sort  of  day  formation,  and 
various  ditches  had  to  be  dug  to  keep  tlie  water  from 
our  tents  and  fire.  Our  camel  loads  of  goods  sent  on 
from  Tankar  in  advance  had  arrived  safely,  and  were 
in  the  hands  of  the  Barong  dzassak,  but  being  in  need 
of  rest  for  both  ourselves  and  our  animals,  wo  stayi-d 
in  our  first  camping  place  for  a  few  davs.  employing 
our  time  in  bartering  and  chatting  with  the  natives, 


224 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


and  iu  writing  letters.  We  feasted  on  fresh  meat,  milk 
and  butter,  but  had  to  be  careful  that  wo  did  not  unin- 
tentionally buy  butter  made  of  camel's  milk,  which  the 

natives  olfered  for  sale.  Cattle  were  very  scanv  in 
this  locality,  owing  partly  to  the  plague  whu-h  had 
carried  off  thousands  of  them,  and  partly  to  the  inroads 
of  the  Goloks,  the  mortal  enemies  of  the  ?^fniifrols,  and 
of  whom  the  latter  are  (les;)crately  afraid.  Young  girls 
and  women  came  to  see  me  frequently,  bringing  butter 
tu  barter  for  silk  and  gold  thread.  They  were  dressed 
for  the  most  part  in  long  pulu  garments  with  little 
jackets  underneath,  their  hair  <lone  either  in  man, 
plaits  fastened  with  cloth  at  the  back  or  divided  into 
two  larger  plaits,  cue  on  each  side,  enveloped  in  a  broad 
band  of  black  cloth  or  velvet,  embroidered  with  thread 
or  beads,  going  down  underneath  the  girdle  to  almost 
the  bottom  of  the  gown.  The  married  women  had  the 
latter  custom.  A  profusion  of  beads  of  different  colors 
adorned  their  persons,  which  were  very  dirty  indeed, 
and  it  took  our  utmost  care  to  keep  tiie  population  of 
our  tents  from  increasing  to  an  alarming  degree. 

Our  horses  were  already  weary  from  their  long  march, 
and  to  spare  them  we  decided  to  hire  camels  to  trans- 
port our  goods  to  the  <Jz(issah-'x  camp,  a  half  day's  jour- 
ney distant.  One  needs  a  lilieral  supply  of  patieneo  to 
deal  with  Mongols,  who  are  sharp,  caleulating  and  so 
changeable  that  it  is  difficult  to  keep  them  to  a  bargain 
after  it  has  been  made.  Two  of  them  having  inspected 
our  loads  am!  having  received  tiie  recpiired  number  of 
hhalas  in  prepayment  for  their  services,  returned  next 
morning  with  an  insufficient  number  of  camels,  and 


IN  THE  TS  AIDAM 


225 


one  of  those  they  did  bring  could  not  carry  a  heavy 
load.    They  also  failed  to  bring  any  ropes  or  |);iils  t'> 
«ro  uiidcrneiitli  the  lonils.     A  livfly  tiinc  ciisiictl  iiini 
tiiiiilly  Mr.  Hijiiliart  toUl  thuia  plainly  our  horses  woiilil 
not  carry  one  atom  of  our  stulf,  that  the  camels  had 
been   paid  for  in  order  that  our  animals  might 
have   a    rest.     Our    lucii    then    eountcd    our  - 
and    watclicMl    the   loads,   and    amiilsl    much  grum- 
bling from  the  ^longols.  packing  and  loading  was  fin- 
ished and  off  wc  went.   The  aspect  of  the  country  was 
bleak-,  almost  like  a  do<(>rt,  at  last  settling  down  into 
a  vcrv  level  plain,  upon  which  in  tlic  di-tance  we  saw 
hundreds  of  tents.    T!ie  two  hoys  drove  (tur  horses  on 
liappy  without  any  loads,  while  Rahim  rode  alongside 
of  us.    Baby  and  all  thoroughly  enjoyed  the  air  and 
■  unshine.    We  clioso  a  ])rcity  campiivr  Lrrouiid  near  a 
'tieam  of  water,  in  the  midst  of  blue  iris,  aliout  one 
hundred  yards  from  the  tents  of  the  dzasmk  of  Barong, 
from  whose  tent  two  men  immediately  came  to  help 
us  pitch  ours.    Taking  Rahim  and  l)aby  witli  us,  for 
wo  never  considered  it  wise  to  leave  the  little  fellow 
with  the  servants  when  wc  were  both  away,  we  went  to 
give  the  rlzasmk  tnc  presents  and  find  out  from  him 
about  the  loads  which  the  Korhd<  Bci-si  had  left  in  hi- 
e.ire  for  u^.     From  what  Rockhill  had  said    in  his 
••  hand  of  the  Lamas"  we  expected  to  find  this  man 
both  polite  and  kind,  especially  as  our  presents,  which 
were  very  valuable,  were  made  to  him  and  to  his  wif(>, 
tlie  Mongols  of  Taiikar  having  adviKnl  us  to  seek  the 
hitter's  influence.    On  reaching  the  door  of  the  tent 
we  were  welcomed  only  by  inferiors,  and  saw  sitting 


2«2>;  WITH  TIII:T1HI"TAXS 

upon  -ninv  ruy.-  a  laan  of  aoout  tliirty-scvt-n  years  of 
ii.^e,  (Ire.-si-d  in  a  dark  blue  eloth  gown,  and  a  little  cir- 
(rdar  Chiiu-.-e  hat,  his  faee  very  fat.  lia\in-  \>y  no  iii.  ;ni- 
an  aniMtiive  (  \pres>i"n.    lie  had  not  risen  to  receive 
us,  tiu  ieliy  (oninutting  an  almo>t  uiii)ardonable  breach 
of  politeness,  one  to  which  we  were  unaccustomed,  but 
which  we  knew  was  cahulated  lo  ,uive  i;s  an  exalted 
opinion  nf  ins  diuniity.    We  Ijowed  and  M^ated  ourselve.- 
upon  vn'^>  provided  for  us.  while  the  women  ,i!;ave  us 
tea  in  china  basins  into  which  a  piece  of  butter  and 
some  iMiiihd  iiad  previously  been  put;   we  were  alM. 
MTved  .-unie  l)re.id  fried  in  fat.  and  himij-lsau-cr,  a  dried 
Chinese  fruit.    The  tent  wa.-  a  large  round  one  made 
of  felt  with  lattice  work  on  the  sides  and  a  hole  in  the 
center  to  emit  th-'  .-ne>ke  from  the  tire  inuneiliiitely 
beneath  in  a  round  elay  iireplaee.  with  the  pot  re>tin,- 
on  an  iron  tripod.    Hugs  covered  tlie  tloor  around  tlw 
Miles,  and  boxes  were  piled  high,  giving  an  air  of  af- 
fluence not  found  in  ordinary  tents.    The  chief  had  a 
little  WMoiIrn  bed  >ix  inelie-  high  that  li<'  u^ed  in  order 
to  avoid  getting  rheunuiti>ni,  which  di>ease,  according 
to  Chinese  doctors,  comes  fnmi  the  earth.    On  either 
side  of  him  sat  a  lama,  one  of  tiiem  apparently  cn- 
t:r(,>>ed  in  l>raying,  but  really  licariiig  and  seeing  every- 
ihinu'  that  was  going  on.    The  chiefs  wife  and  little 
daugiiter  sat  in  the  opposite  side  of  the  tent  from  us, 
and^though  we  had  expected  to  see  the  former  clean 
and  well  dre>se(i.  slic  \va>:  m'ilher.  being  (piitc  indis- 
tiiiu-uishable  fnnii  (ither  .Moiign!  women  as  far  as  her 
i.ttire  was  concerned.    Women  of  various  ages  crowded 
the  tent,  several  men  were  sitting  near  the  door,  which 


IX  THE  TS'AIDAM 


227 


was  itself  filled  with  heads.  There  is  no  such  dignity 
found  among  these  nomad  chiefs  as  among  Chinese 
niiiiidariiis,  I'or  the  iKM)rt'>t  iiiiiii  can  ^^o  into  tlif  chii'Ts 
iriit  and  ho  j^'iven  tea,  wliilc  a  baryain  or  a  bvisiness 
tiansaitioii  is  lifing  di^L•us^ud.  The  chief  told  us  our 
goods  hud  come,  and  that  he  would  go  over  to  the  vil- 
lage on  the  morrow  with  Mr.  Hijnhart  to  got  them. 
.\>  we  wore  about  to  leave  he  aro>f  and  accompanied 
u>  to  the  door,  bowing  there  and  watching  us  depart; 
an  old  woman  held  a  big,  ferocious  dog  until  we  were 
beyond  danger  and  we  .sauntered  slowly  to  our  tent, 
-lad  to  be  once  more  in  the  sweet  sunshine  out  nf  doors, 
lie  came  over  next  day  and  brought  us  several  pounds 
of  fresh,  moderately  clean  yellow  butter,  some  churma, 
.>ntl  a  big  fat  sheep.  We  were  not  in  need  of  any  favors 
or  kin(hicss  I'roni  him,  but  lie  had  I'videnty  decided  tiuit 
\vi'  were  people  to  be  cultivated,  or  perhajjs  he  con- 
eluded  that  as  we  expected  to  stay  for  some  time  it 
would  pay  hini  to  be  agreeable.  The  weather  during 
the  ^-tay  was  delightful:  the  grassy  plains  stretched 
on  all  sides  where  were  tents  innuuierai)le  with  tlocks 
and  herds;  towards  the  south  we  could  see  the  Xomoran 
and  Burh'an  Bota  pas.ses  in  the  Kuenlun  mountains,  be- 
\<  lid  whicii  lay  our  goal.  Xear  our  tent  a  ground  idrd 
had  her  ne.-t  of  five  eggs  hidden  among  the  iris.  How 
wf  enjoyed  her,  for  birds,  with  the  exception  of  hawks 
and  ravens,  had  been  very  scarce. 

Oui  hoys  had  had  turns  at  being  cook,  and 
while  one  of  them  would  do  his  best  with  the 
viands,  the  second  would  look  after  Charlie,  and 
the  third  would  s<Tve  as  a  body  servant  and  tend 


228 


WITH  THE  TIBKTANS 


tln'  !i()r>fs  ill  the  iiiorniii.i,'  ;iml  oveniiig.    Tlie  cliicl' 
lis   Willi    I'licl    lo    iiiiikf   bread,   and  had 
Iiis  nun  bring  firewood  from  some  distance  away,  whicli 
was  mostly  mols  dug  out  of  the  >:\\u\.  r.ivad-iii.ikiiig 

W;lS         (MM!   of  ;:iT;it    i  111  pur!  a  lli  r.      W'f  liad   a  licati';: 

bra.>,-  \H>[  It'll  iiu  lie-  111  ihaiiit  li  r,  omt  whu  li  a  Iid  iittnl 
eh)sely  hi|)|)iiig  down  an  incli.  Into  this  our  bread  was 
put  and  the  pot  was  tlien  buried  in  the  lire  of  dried 
( nu-(hi;i,i:,  caiT  bi'ini;-  taken  that  it  was  not  too  hnt. 
I"railiaki'  can  1m'  iuiuIi'  in  thc^-  pots,  and  many  otluT 
viTv  jiahilalile  kind.-  of  vi\kv  and  biuis,  provideil  always 
the  ingredients  are  at  luind,  and  plenty  of  fuel,  whi(  !i 
M-e  sometimes  found  dilliciilt  to  get.  About  our 
jniirii  lit'  liiriT  wirk-  in  tiu'  'IVaidam  eiusler  >\V(r. 
Mieiiiories,  i'or  thire  our  little  family  had  the  last  (iiiici 
lime  together  in  sunny  weather,  without  one  elom'  of 
\v(»rry  or  unrest  to  dampen  the  thorough  cnjouimit. 
The  outstanding  event  wa>  tlie  et^lebration  on  the  ;li)lh 
(if  June  (if  habyV  liiitliilay.  In  pr('parati(m  for  tlir 
day  a  i)irtliday  cakf  wa>  made  of  Hour,  sugar,  butler 
and  sultanas,  and  the  chief  was  invited  to  come  over 
to  help  oat  "foreign  cake."  In  the  nininiim  the  Mon- 
gols were  surpri.-cd  to  hear  tin'  iriin-  wliii  li  were  lircd 
in  honor  of  our  little  son.  while  eatli  of  our  .-crvants 
was  still  more  surprised  when  called  and  presented  with 
a  gift.  How  thoroughly  baby  enjoyed  those  days,  w^hen 
he  made  the  tents  ring  with  joyou-ne>s  from  his  musical 
langlitir.  hi-  ^!lollts  and  the  l.rating  of  onr  Uus.-ian 
lira<s  wa^h-ba-in  which  he  u.-c(l  as  a  drum.  Then  from 
.wuvr  Weariness  he  would  f,;!!  a.-lc-'p,  leaving  the  ramp 


IN  THE  TS'AIDAM 


229 


pervaded  by  a  slillness,  made  sweet  by  the  fact  that 
he  was  still  there. 

Tlir  (liirf  iiiiiu-  to  our  tent  very  often,  nnd  we  did 
«oine  tradiii;:  witli  liim.  We  had  some  nee  that  we 
•A  i.-lud  to  baii(  r  l'<>r  sheep  and  he  was  anxious  to  have 
it,  t-o  of  eour.se  no  one  else  dared  to  make  an  otter,  fur 
lie  a\\Vi\\>  lias  the  pre-rmineiue  in  n)iitt<Tt;  of  traile,  au'l 
rrr(iiu  ntl,v  mwA  havf  his  share  of  the  profits  of  a  good 
liargaiu  uiaile  i>y  nienibers  of  his  tribe.  We  found  him 
eontemptibly  mean,  wanting  to  use  small  weight  scales, 
cheat  us  0:1  the  price,  always  heggin?;  iis  to  "add  a 
little,"  the  comnion  request  of  a  Ciiinese  purchaser, 
when  anything  is  being  weighed  or  measured  out  to 
liim.  We  would  not  have  been  so  surprised  at  this 
man's  iharai  ter  had  we  previously  -fcn  W.  W.  Hock- 
liilTs  account  of  his  second  journey,  upon  which  he  and 
his  old  friend,  the  dzassak,  had  about  a  similar  experi- 
ence to  that  which  we  had  had.  Poor  Dowe,  Rockhill's 
guide  in  ISS!),  came  to  grief  through  his  highly  prized 
revolver,  for  he  was  exiled  in  Shang,  his  Hocks  and 
herds  having  been  conliseated  by  the  chief  and  he  him- 
self disgraced.  While  he  was  on  his  way  to  Tankar, 
he  had  some  trouble  wU'-  a  young  servant,  .luring 
which  he  threatened  to  >ho(,t  the  latter,  and  drawing 
the  revolver  fired  it,  though  some  of  the  ilongols  said 
it  was  unintentional.  However,  he  killed  the  nmt  and 
the  .-'  dly  of  the  deceased  demanded  the  pavment  of 
indemnity  and  the  il:iissak  left  Dowe  a  p  r  man. 
tlK.ugh  he  himself  no  doubt  profiled  by  his  steward".-, 
misfortune.  ^Vhcn  we  were  there  Dowe  was  almost 
blind  and  living  in  Rhang.  but  had  managed  to  collect 


WITH  THK  TIBKTAXS 


ii  few  •^lu'cp  imtl  cuttlt'  to^jctlifT.  An  old  trnOer  Irom 
Tankiir  wlui  was  in  tho  Ts'aidam  durii  r  i 'it>  sumnuT 
u      ii   Irrfnini"  vi-r  >r  lit  mir  ti'iit. 


I',     iM.  I  'if  (  'III !    -f  1  iliciii  I  w  hii  I;  III      'ii  .-■       I"        ■■-I  i- 
-  'I  ■  iiiiinli  r  111'  l)iiirut'il         i.'hin-.  tli'    '    ".'  h 
'1.     •  who  fiad  U'vii  killoil  l».v  t!i<   K'i.mbii  i,.  l.-MI. 

ilcv     ■  lii  iir  11     tllOT'    l;l  COIlIii'Ctio?  ilr  Wi  ul  rn' 

II  <!  M  III'  1  i!'  M  III  Tniikiir  Aii;,'ii-t.  'I'u  a\ut 
•\v  <iiV  r  ii.ir  ].  '  -,  111!  irf>M  il  to  I  r  frii  Is  lumu'. 
ami  li"  -;ii<i  Mc  V.  'iilil  cither  sotnl  liciii  with  soiiif  out' 
n-li..  ■■'111.,;  1...  i^'uiii.l:  '"'I''     !i  -i.    'T  lir  wouM 

fiik'c  till-Ill  liiii  li"  t.  Mr.  I'at  .  ■  I  .vn  liaiit  .it  llu" 
(■;i>t  ^M!t',  V,]  liiid  ti  .jiK  iii'  •  ai  il  u!'  -cut  Ictlrrs  to 
Sinin<;  for  us.  Th'  <('  Ii  i  ■  -  with  pood  news!,  did  not 
reach  Can. niii  until     I     il:  f  im  me  iUiiiotitt'-inj; 

the  prcnt  ;!,!  ily  lii.ii  1"  i  -  lai  ^  u;\  \r  jou^iicv. 
Wiiik'  111  I  ;t   Y   lid  1111  v.-  d  (I  irsolvfs  wiili  iifty 

catties  of  hutti  1  iitid  clt'Vi  .1  .-hoi  |)  for  use  on  fl><»  rosd 
-(iiilli,  I' ^  ■lectin^'  \   t  to        'icoplc  a<jain  for  a  '! 
This  li.MHTiiii'  'lui'     n<  tl.  iiikfid  inat  .ve  v.  ro     .»  d>- 
|i('iidciit  n|H)ii  liic.-o  .Miiiif^'-ls  I'lir  mir  'sumba,  tli- 
price  demand'  '  was  vorv  iar^'o  and  it  :  Id  ti^i-' 

to  1 1 mii'  '  >  tci  uir-     .  'i  1  liciii  at    d.  t'l. 
alili'.    '1'  '  V  ,      ,1 .        f  al  cowii  ■  d*. 
iiit'ii-iti-  into  the  mii.'     ot"  our  lu  ii: 
journey  hi    aid,  dihitin;  on  the  passes 
t'ially  tile   -^bhers  \vh'     nuM  he  t<ure  t       .y  up< 
Having  a-cci'taiiii  li     '.i:  ^       ■   :  i,    '     u-i  n  ^I- 
wer.-  pas.-in'J  tiiroiigh      '     .      idahi     n      'eir  w^i 
Lha?a  and  Trash  !"iii'    .  w.  jnoposed  to       >■  wo  dav- 
after  thcMi.  because       kiuv.  then  .ias  a      -sibilit\  f 


IN  THK  TS'AI  >\M 


231 


,ur         -  o    he  trnil  in  the  pliii  f  whore  it  was  not 

ii        ■      \  VI  'II';  hiiiia  carniicd  ii.  a  -mail  white  Wnt 
h<  ,  .  till    I'.iis^dL-'s  was  g'Miji  to  '  hasa  viih  llio  Mon- 
•■^  .1-      '1     ••i.iijrh  hi'  1  we  loarsuni  when  the  earavan 
Willi, (I  oav     and  ni      our  pn-parul    'is  acconlingly. 
1 .11'  r  for   stavinjj:    -(t   hini,'   in  tlic 

li,  lamt  oiir.-clvi-!  witii  the  |ii».-.-ii)il- 

o;  "ik  arnons  tlio  no'     's  and  after 

1,  ind  wo  came  to  tht     ilowing  con- 

.  I',  cm;'  '  ]k'  succ'ssfu.     carried  on 

iig        smiinicrtinK'.  the  worker? 
I  '1.^    ,  1.      .r  for        winter.    To  inspire  confl- 

(!■  mid  be  wise  foi  thiw  enjraged  in  niii^sion 

o  .,.  a  litth'  trading;,  othcrwi.-r  i     natives  would 
.   tlicv  ^rot  ihcir  liviri,'  liy  r  a<,n      Tliorc  is  no 
,  inat  with  suitahlf  men  a  ;,'(M.  i  w    '<  m  the  dis- 
iltution  of  Gospels  could  also  he  atsd  the  faet 

at  so  rn  iny  traveh'rs  from  Lhas.  firouj.'h  the 

ict  w  .uld  give  the  nnssion  a  wi^  '-e. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


UNPOPULATED  DISTUICTS. 

Crossing  the  Kuenlun  Muuniuins — "  Buddha's  Caul- 
dron" — Marshes  end  Sand-I  ills — Dead  Yak  Strew 
the  Trail— Ford  of  the  SIuium  (iol— Our  (luidr-^  i),- 
srrt  I's — Snow  StorTn  on  tin-  Koko-SIiilis — We  .Meet 
a  Caravan — The  Beginning  of  Sorrows. 

The  Kueiihin  niouiitaiii  range  stretclio.s  across  TihcL 
from  west  to  ea.-t  at  ahoiil  lliirty-si.v  degrees  hililude, 
and  praetieally  forms  the  northern  limit  of  the  unex- 
plored Tilietan  lerrilorv  lying  west  of  iiiu'jty-three  de- 
grees longitude.  The  range  is  also  tiie  southern  boun- 
dary of  tile  Ts'aidam,  and  the  nalives  furthermore  look 
upon  it  as  the  line  of  demarcation  between  comfortable 
and  dangerous  traveling  from  Tankar  to  Xageh'uk'a. 
Once  th"  traveler  gels  south  of  the  Kuenluns,  tliey  sav, 
he  is  certain  to  eneounter  dangers  formidable  in  the 
iihape  of  passes,  rivers  and  brigands.  Rockhill  states 
that  this  mountain  range  south  of  the  Ts'aidam  has  no 
name,  and  Prjevalski  calls  it  Burh'an  Bota  (Buddha's 
Cauldron),  hut  in  this  the  latter  is  mistaken,  for  that 
is  the  name,  not  of  the  range,  but  of  one  of  the  pas-^s. 
Like  every  other  caravan  on  its  way  to  Inner  Tibet, 
we  had  rested  long  in  the  Ts'aidam  and  gathered 

.!•..> 


i:  X POPULATED  DI STRICTS 


233 


~ir(iii4i!i  lor  ilio  ascent  and  cro-Miig  of  Burh'an  Bota, 
and  other  hijjh  pati.ses  on  the  road,  which  on  account 
of  the  «'anity  of  pasture,  and  the  <,'m>t  altitiulc.  tax 
In  the  nt!ii'-.M  the  Iraviliii--  i-.-ipiuily  of  !)otli  man  an«i 
hea^-l.  We  Itiirned  from  the  lama  pri'viou^ly  men- 
tioni'd  that  travelers  often  eongregate  on  the  very  edge 
of  the  Ts'aiihim  [.hiiiis  hnaiu-e  llicre  is  <rras.s  and  tlie 
animals  arc  allowed  to  have  a  good  feed;  for  immedi- 
ately at  the  fool  of  the  l)a>s,  where  another  hall  is  al- 
ways made  heforc  the  ascent  is  attempted,  the  grass  is 
verv  poor.  The  morning  aficr  our  lama's  tent  wa>  miss- 
ing from  it>  i)osition  lic.-ide  tlu'  fhii-isdl/s,  we  left  the 
lalter",s  proximity  and  made  our  way  to  the  last  hailing 
place  nortl)  of  tlie  mountains. 

i  liave  always  thought  of  shet'ii  as  sncli  docil.'  ani- 
mals, following  (jiiietly  a'nl  unvkly  their  siieplierd,  hut 
when  1  look  hack  on  thai  day  in  the  Ts'aidam  with  its 
ircaciurous  marshes  interspersed  with  grassy  plains, 
the  sheep  banish  everything  else  from  niy  thoughts, 
and  I  again  sec  them  as  they  were  that  day  Jum]>!ng 
and  running  in  every  direction  except  that  in  which 
tlicy  wi're  wanted  to  go:  first  to  join  the  dzassak'n 
flocks,  and,  when  separated  from  tlieni,  off  directly  op- 
posite to  another  lloek.  a  particularly  anddtious  one 
alwavs  leading.  Poor  .la->i  and  (ia-chuen-tsi  were 
out  seeking  ilicin  away  into  the  lught.  We  set  up 
our  tent  poles  as  a  tripod  upon  which  to  place  our  brass 
wash-basin,  and  burned  in  it  a  great  lire  to  serve  as  a 
heacon,  for  wc  feared,  tiny  might  he  lo^t  in  the  nuirsh. 
,Not  far  from  us  there  was  a  tent  in  which  lived  an  old 
eov.ple,  and  from  them  we  received  fresh  milk  which 


234 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


wn  carried  alonp;  in  botllop  tho  noxt  morning  on  our 
joiirnov.  0  the  l)lc(ik  barrenness  of  that  marsshv  dis- 
irict  I  S;in(!-l!ills.  -rriivcl  and  -cnili!  Ndt  a  si^ni  of  life 
in  an}'  place,  not  a  dro])  nj"  luiiiiiiii;  uatcr.  only  l)(>re 
:;n(l  there  in  a  little  hollow  in  ihc  !kmI  of  what  hail 
'  i  cn  ap])areptly  an  irri<ration  stream,  hidden  in  the 
lit' a  wi>  would  iiinl  :i  hut  not  rnonirli 

;o  rcfrr.-ii  us  and  the  ImrH's.  Whni  it  wa-  nearly  dark 
Mi:  Hijnhart  went  ahead  and  rnund  a  camping-place 
among  brushwood  on  the  bank  of  a  large  stream  of  good 
Avater  llowing  towards  Dsun.  in  a  deep  gully  right  at 
the  foot  of  the  mountain  which  towered  in  front  of  u-^. 
It  seemed  cruci  lo  ictlier  the  horses,  but  there  was  not  a 
blade  of  grass,  and  when  sueh  is  the  case  animals  will 
stray  miles  away  in  seanh  .d'  food  unless  prevented;  so 
we  gave  them  some  liaihy.  and  all  prepared  for  the 
ascent  of  the  Buriran  Bota  the  following  day.  We 
started  shortly  after  daybreak,  beginning  to  ascend  at 
once  along  a  dry  watercourse,  where  not  an  atom  of 
green  was  to  be  seen,  but  strewn  here  and  tliere  were 
dead  yak,  many  of  them  reduced  to  skeletons  and  others 
more  recently  dead.  Of  the  latter  we  counted  forty- 
two,  and  the  >i_lit  i;i:i(!e  us  pause  to  reflect  on  the  name 
of  t!ie  jiass  and  \  iiider  wlietlier  the  explanation  of  its 
name,  "Buddha's  Cauldron,"  is  not  found  in  the  fact 
that  it  claims  so  many  sacrifices  of  the.se  poor  animals ; 
or  was  the  name  suggested  by  the  vapors  that  hang 
over  it.  wliich  the  natives  call  poi>onous  from  the  de- 
pressing elTect  they  produce  on  travelers'-  line  de- 
scribed the  discomfort  and  ])ain  endured  in  the  ascent 
of  this  pass,  which  half  of  his  caravan  crossed  in  one 


U N I'Ol'ULATED  DlJSTKlCTS 


235 


stretch  while  the  other  half  stayed  part  way  up,  in- 
tt'iuling  to  cn)>s  the  day  t'ollowiui:-  ^Vo  caniped  soiiu' 
distaiur  frniu  tlu'  sumiiiit,  whuiv  tlieiv  were  indicaliuiiri 
of  till'  hjpas  having,'  i^topped,  and  where  there  were 
food,  water  and  fairly  good  grass.  Our  camp  was  in  a 
iK'autiful  ill  the  hin<  which,  with  tli<  ir  varicil 

^llap(■s  and  liiK'S,  towcivd  cloiKlward  in  front  of  u>. 
So  great  wa^  (lie  elevation  to  which  we  had  attained 
that  the  country  we  had  just  traversed  seemed,  as  we 
looked  hack  upon  it,  to  Ijolong  to  another  world  far 
hcncath  us.    Tliougli  the  native.-  a-sured  us  i/iut  it 
always  rained  whenever  anyone  crossed  this  pa.-s,  proh- 
ahly  from  the  great  altitude  and  the  clouds  hanging 
ahout  the  summit,  we  had  line  weather;   l)ut  no  on,- 
.  iijoyed  it  very  nnu  li.  as  all  except  Hahim  had  a  head- 
ache.   Ca-eluien-t.-i  was  very  ill,  and  little  Charlie  wa.s 
p.'rfectly  willing  to  lie  down  with  me  and  keep  quiet, 
for  we  found  that  we  felt  much  hett(>r  when  still  and  in 
;.  prostrate  position.    On  the  top  of  the  pass  was  a 
laip"  (ihn  and  our  native  companions  cast  a  stone 
upon  till-  already  large  heap,  chanting  in  loud  and  joy- 
ful voices  their  thanks  to  the  si)irits  for  help  in  climh- 
ing  successfully  to  the  top.  a  ta>k  of  no  small  magni- 
tude.    Caravans  coming  out  from  the  interior  pay 
heavily  in  tliat  locality  hy  the  yak  and  horses  lost  dur- 
ing the  crossing  of  this  pass,  the  severe  i^iil  and  the 
great  stretches  (d'  country  without  any  fodder  coming 
:it  the  end  of  a  long  journey  causing  large  numbers  to 
,-uii  umb.    Iluw  delightful  it  was  after  descending  along 
rugged  paths  to  camp  in  lu.Kuriant  grass,  and  among 
brushwood  which  provided  us  with  plenty  of  firewood. 


2n(J  WITH  THE  TIBETANS 

Such  was  our  noxt  (•aiiiiMii;4-i»l;i(('  on  tlio  bank  of  a 
prottj'  stream,  which  luvt  <l;iy  followed  down  its 
cdursc.  Id  hraiich  nil'  i'imim  it  ahiiiu'  the  caravMii  road 
wliicli  Inl  us  ii|)  iiiiiithcr  >t Irani,  siiowiiiii  wi'  were 
asft'iiding  apiin.  In  I'at't  the  whole  irioiitirs  journev 
niifj;ht  bu  said  to  bo  a  series  of  u])>  and  downs  in  moro 
M'li-fs  tliaii  line— thi'  I'oad  cuiitinually  a.-cciidiii^  or 
dc-irndiiig,  the  grass  and  tirewood  licing  one  day 
abundant,  the  next  absolutely  wanting. 

.\s  we  were  in  uninhabited  country,  and  cvjwcted  to 
1.'  for  a  month  oi'  niKrc.  thi'  apiH'aranc  c  of  four  men 
and  some  camels  was  a  welcome  sight  and  the  occasion 
of  marked  politeness  on  l)oth  sides,  Mr.  Uijnhart  i)rc- 
senting  them  with  some  liread,  and  Uahim  exchanging 
loliacco  with  thi  in.  They  were  ]iart  of  a  large  caravan 
on  its  way  from  l.ha-a  ti>  Taukar.  Imt  the  n\cn  wen- 
several  days  behind  them.  !ia\ing  to  come  so  slowlv. 
The  mere  sight  of  them  gave  us  a  feeling  of  compan- 
ionslii])  that  was  pleasant  after  the  isolation  of  the 
m-iiintaiiis,  and  we  pr  )ceed(-d  witli  the  anticipat'on  of 
meeting  at  any  motnenl  pi-rhajis  another  small  party 
who  were  aiming  to  push  on  to  the  Ts'aidam.  Well  do 
I  remember  the  biMiiiy  of  the  camping  ground  the  fol- 
lowing day.  situated  on  the  liank  (d'  a  copious  stream 
coming  ap[)arentiy  from  springs  in  xime  exceedingly 
lofty  mountains  a  few  miles  up  a  beautiful  valley  at  the 
head  of  which  stwd,  as  if  it  were  a  sentinel  on  giiard, 
a  solitary  smnmit  towe  ring  high  in  its  magnificence 
aliuve  all  surrounding  peaks.  Our  tents  were  pitched 
among  beds  of  dainty  piid<  primulas  which  studded  the 
grassy  carpet.   But  all  was  not  to  be  sunshine,  for  that 


LNrori  LATED  DiSTHKT.S 


237 


night  the  rain  fell  in  torrents,  traveling  was  impossible 
the  next  inDming,  iiiul  tin'  lucii  found  it  necessary  to 
go  about  ten  miles  fer  tin'wood.  We  deemed  it  wii-e 
to  move  our  camp  to  the  hills,  for  if  the  rain  continued 
as  it  showed  every  indication  of  doing,  we  might  have 
lieen  in  danger  Trom  the  iireviously  ([uit't  mountain 
stream,  ik  •  muddy  and  rising  rapidly,  though  eventu- 
ally it  proved  a  needless  fear.  We  had  seen  these  quiet 
streams  suddenly  changed  into  raging  torrents,  in  their 
mad  course  carrying  everything  with  them,  hence  our 
<lctermination  to  move  to  liigher  ground,  and  to  avoid 
tlowery  carpets  in  the  future,  if  they  were  on  the  banks 
of  a  stream  liable  to  overflow  suddenly.  Wild  mules, 
antelopes,  l)ears  and  wild  yak  were  plentiful  in  these 
regions,  hut  owing  to  tiie  wet  weather  fuel  was  harrl  to 
get,  and  at  times  yak  horns  cut  into  fine  splinters,  to- 
gether with  roots  of  small  weeds,  were  all  we  could 
find;  these  were  scarcely  sulVu  lent  to  more  than  warm 
water  for  lea.  though  we  always  had  enough  dry 
kindling  wood  that  we  carried  in  part  of  one  load  to 
make  baby's  food. 

Now  our  road  lay  in  a  west  southwesterly  direction, 
loHowing  streams  for  the  most  part,  these  seeming  to 
form  openings  in  the  mountains.  Then  we  ascended  a 
))a?s  on  which  there  was  a  small  obo.  After  following  a 
rivulet,  crossing  and  recrossing  it  several  times,  we 
forded  the  Shuga  gol,  which,  being  greatly  swollen  with 
the  recent  rains,  and  having  a  linking  sand  and  gravel 
bottom,  was  almost  unfordahle,  and  it  was  with  con- 
siderable anxiety  that  we  saw  some  of  our  loaded 
horses  almost  swept  away  in  the  seething  current,  or 


238 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


sink  in  pitfalls.  The  tedious  marcli  tlirough  miry 
jfround  and  red  clay  along  the  river  in  aarih  of  u 
tamp  with  <s<)<"\  ;,riiss  and  s[)ri;i,i:  iter,  must  liave 
c-ourag('d  our  two  boy.-.  .la-.-i  .imi  (.u-(huon-tf;i,  for  wx' 
noticed  that  they  were  not  ><i  amiahlo  and  Imppy  as 
Ix'toro.  One  mdniiiig  when  v*'  rose  vvi  louiid  tliat  tln'V 
liad  (Ici  aiiipi'ti  111  till'  liiuhl.  t^i'-  ing  witli  thnn  ihrir 
own  bi'longing.-,  a  pot  and  I'ood  enough  fur  tin-  rctin'ii 
journey.  The  disicovery  eausi'd  some  surprise,  and  Mr. 
Uijnhart,  with  Rahim,  mounted  our  best  horses  to  go 
back  and  if  pi)-;>i!)lt'  l)ring  tlic  truant-  t(»  camp  a:.:iin, 
leaving  Charlie  and  myself  with  Topsy  to  await  their 
return.  Our  camp  was  high  in  a  sheltered  nook  in  the 
hills  on  the  river  bank,  with  bright  green  grass  and 
pretty  moss  along  little  i)ubhling  springs,  the  moun- 
tains towering  in  the  distance,  the  snow-capped  sum- 
mits of  the  loftier  ones  looking  down  in  their  calm 
superiority,  giving  one  the  impression  that  they  were 
conscious  of  their  own  height.  There  is  no  solitude 
li!s(^  that  of  the  mountains,  perhaps  because  their 
majesty  impresses  one  so,  and  makes  nature  too  far 
away  to  lie  friendly. 

That  day  alone  in  tlie  bills  with  no  tre(v,  l)ir:ls  or 
flowers  near,  made  me  realize  the  f-wcctnc-s  provided  bv 
till'  companionship  of  a  little  child  and  a  dog,  who 
both  seemed  to  feel  the  loneliness,  and  endeavored  to 
Ije  bright  and  companionable,  while  occasionally  a  chill 
would  pierce  my  heart  as  tiie  thought  came:  "  Wiiat  if 
any  accident  should  i)revent  their  return?''  Was  it  a 
foreboding  of  the  future,  a  whispering  of  what  was  to 
be?   The  thought  was  not  harbored,  but  a  little  gar- 


UXPOrrLATED  DISTUICTS 


239 


iiicnt  that  was  being  knitted  for  baby  grew  very  raj)iiily 
under  my  fingers  that  day,  and  great  was  the  -iring 

wlii'ii  late  ill  the  al'ti'i'iioon  the  jaticd  horses  lit'ir 
ridiTti  liunu',  even  lliough  they  caiiie  withou  t  two 
hoys.  We  trust  the  latter  reached  the  Ts'aiUani  in 
safety,  for  they  had  plenty  of  food,  and  the  trail  was 
<^ooi\,  hut  it  rained  next  day  and  the  rivers  must  liavc 
l)een  very  high,  making  their  crossing  on  foot  danger- 
ous. 

The  desertion  of  these  men  left  us  in  a  quandary,  hut 

we  rearraiiired  our  loads  that  tliey  niiglit  l)e  easily 
handled  hy  two,  fed  some  of  tlie  extra  food  )o  our 
horses,  ami  continued  our  journey  after  a  re?t  of  four 
days.  Storms  seemed  to  l)e  the  rule,  for  it  snowed  and 
hailed  at  alMUit  twelve  o'ehx  k  every  day  ;  but  wc  pushed 
niir  way  on  ^m^t  a  lake  called  I'vaii-khar.  across  a  |-!aiu 
where  the  trail  was  scarcely  vi>il)ie  and  where  (juick- 
san<!s  wen*  numerous,  to  a  eanip  by  the  side  of  springs 
with  [denly  of  wild  onions,  which  were  a  great  treat. 
IJiihini  liad  had  a  .<rrn<'some  experieni  ■  liere  on  hi>  \v:\v 
out  of  'rii)et  in  IS'.Xi.  lie  and  two  companions  were  the 
only  survivors  of  the  six  who  followed  in  Capt.  Well- 
hv"s  fo((iste]is,  keeping  out  of  sight  two  days'  march 
111  hiiid  the  latter,  until  they  dix  cA cr.  1  >i_uiis  of  a  lar;,'e 
laravan  with  yak  which  had  crossed  the  Cliumar  river 
just  before  them.  They  had  no  food  except  a  blue 
flower  of  the  labiatre  family  and  wild  onions,  and  here 
nil  (iiir  eanipiiii:  ;,m-ouiii1  tliey  saw  a  tame  yak.  prob- 
ably one  that  had  been  over-fatigued  and  lefi  by  the 
caravan  mentioned  above.  They  attacked  and  killed  it, 
and.  he  said,  they  were  so  weakened  by  starvation  that 


240 


WITH  THE  TIBETAN'S 


tlit'y  juirl  Mil  down  iiiitl  ato  raw  liver,  not  waiting  to 
eook  it.  'i'he  dusky  eye  of  the  Oriental  Hashed  as  he 
riralli'd  tlu'  joy  that  had  como  to  him  in  this  spot  when 
the  vaU  ami  tract's  of  a  caravan  tcdd  Iiim  he  was  again 
approaching  the  haunts  of  huuian  hcings. 

Wild  onions  grow  in  groat  quantities  in  these  dis- 
tricts and  arc  j)articulariy  welcome  to  travelers,  for 
thcv  grow  in  places  along  llic  caravan-trails,  where 
there  is  no  meat  to  be  had,  and  where  thiy  are  the 
only  obtainable  green  for  diet.  We  invariably  tented 
when  possihh'  in  what  had  previon>ly  lieen  kopits' 
camps,  and  the  di'serted  fireplaces,  together  witii  the 
small  obos  around  on  the  hills,  served  as  landinarkti  to 
point  out  the  road,  as  the  blazed  trees  did  in  pioneer 
times  in  our  own  country.  The  corpse  <  a  man  on 
the  roadside  told  its  own  pathetic  tale,  li.,w  he  had 
fallen  sick  and  unable  to  keep  up  with  his  caravan, 
how  he  had  been  left  behind  with  a  supply  of  clothes 
and  food,  and  had  died  alone  when  the  food  was  all 
used.  There,  surronnded  by  his  scattered  and  torn 
garments.  lay  his  body,  the  tlcsh  partly  devoured  l)y 
wild  beasts  and  eagles.  Rahim  shuddered  at  the  .sight, 
and  at  the  memory  of  his  own  escape  from  a  similar 
fate;  and  our  arrival  at  the  Chuniar  river  where  '.ic  had 
first  seen  trac of  the  k-opas  who  helped  him,  revived 
the  memory  of  how  kind  k-ismct  had  been  to  him. 

Having  camped  again  near  some  ohos  made  of  large 
prayer-stones  in  a  position  east  of  i  '  jw  ridge  of  hills, 
and  after  having  crossed  some  sand-',  unes,  we  forded 
the  Chumar,  one  of  the  headwaters  of  the  Yangtse;  and 
even  though  at  the  ford  the  depth  w?is  less  than  else- 


UXPOPrLATED  DISTRICTS 


241 


whrrc,  \w  oxpcriuiitid  toii^idoraljlt'  tlilliculty  in  ero,>s- 
iiig  it,  for  there  were  sevoral  branches  separated  by 
Miiall  sii!i(II)ars  bearing  tufts  of  grass.  In  the  first 
linmcli  our  horses  sank  into  thf  (Hiicksand.  and  liad 
I{ahini  not  hwn  an  expert  \vc  would  have  lost  si'vcrai 
loads,  while  tlie  last  branch  was  very  deep,  all  the 
liorses  having  to  swim.  Then  we  passed  through  a 
blinking  hog.  wlii(  li  well-nigh  exhausted  our  animals. 
It  seeme(l  that  at  every  step  the  wavering  foundations 
would  givi'  way  and  we  would  sink  somewhere  into  the 
depths  of  the  earth.  Dead  horses  and  camels  strewn 
.ilong  tile  way  trave  evidence  of  the  extreme  diflioulties 
of  transport  across  this  treacherous  piece  of  c-ountrv. 
In  the  entrance  to  the  Koko-shili  range  on  the  southeast 
<»f  the  valley,  we  came  to  a  spot  where  caravans  had 
evidently  stayed  several  days,  and  where  a  dog  that 
had  had  its  back  broken  was  keeping  guard  over  some 
•lead  horses,  and  resented  Topsy's  advent.  The  ascent 
of  the  Koho-shili  is  at  first  gradual,  but  near  the  top  it 
is  very  steep.  A  violent  snow-storm  overtook  ns  and  we 
feared  to  los(>  the  trail,  hut  two  obos  indicated  our  ar- 
rival at  tiie  summit,  and  a  careful  descent  brought  us  to 
a  pretty  camping  ground.  The  transition  from  the 
area  of  a  snow-storm  around  the  summit  of  a  pass  with 
Its  irregular  stony  paths,  its  bleak  ])eaks  iMid  abos.  to 
sunshine,  groen  grass  and  bright  crystal  streams  below, 
gives  one  an  exceedingly  pleasant  sensation,  and  makes 
tlie  pul<e  tlirn))  with  joy  and  a  si'iise  of  satisfaction. 

The  next  few  days'  traveling  brought  us  to  different 
branches  of  the  Tlan  .Muron.  and  on  to  one  of  the 
branches  of  the  Mur-ussu,  another  higli  water  of  the 


24-2 


uiTii  I  ill;  tii;kt.\\s 


Yii;!;:l-i',  (  .illnl  Miir-ii>^ii  Kv  ihc  .Mciiil:i>I-  .imi  I'lv  ('lm 
hv  the  'riliclans.  litrf  i  iiiaki'  liicts  ''iniii  Mr. 
Jfijnhart's  diary  which  will  give  nn  udoquato  idea  of  tlic 
locality. 

*' Aiif:ii~t  Hull.  'I'd-tlay  line  anil  lint.  Start  at  cijrli' 
o'clock,  travel  through  siii.|-liill>  covered  s[iaringly  uilli 
f;ra>s,  pass  aioiifj  tho  cast  side  of  a  hike,  then  turn 
isouthwcst  ami  enter  iK-twoen  two  lakes.  On  the  north 
sliiire  ol'  ;lie  Mtiifliern  one  are  many  laru'e  aluK.  Stop 
after  tra'.'ling  three  ami  a  hall*  Inturs  on  the  \ve>terii 
extremity  ()f  a  lake,  north  of  the  Miir-us.-Jii,  with  di- 
rectly south  of  us  a  snow-peak,  Mt.  l)<T.>.t.  ami  southeast 
Mt.  njiirna,  a!-o  a  -nnw-peak      Ciiailie  i-  teeiliinu'." 

"  Awj,Mi.-t  mil.  I'liarlie  is  a  little  itetter.  Started 
with  line  weather  from  the  uortiieast  corner  of  lake. 
In  about  an  hour  afterwnnls  we  reached  a  larjre  l)rniich 
of  the  Mnr-n-su;  on  one  I'i"  \  \\r  large-i  stre;im>  !i<ir>es 
swim;  p't  numv  tlnnL'>  wr!.  '  rJ  did  ■  r-i--  ailniirahly. 
On  the  roa;!  have  a  fearful  hai l-ftorm ;  pass  two  small 
lakes,  one  east,  one  west  of  our  track.  C'omo  in  sipht 
of  hirgest  Itrandi  of  Mur-ussu,  a  source  of  the  Yangtse; 
camp  on  riirht  Laidx." 

The  main  liraneii  of  the  Mur-u-.-u  is  \ery  lar;4e.  llow- 
injj  quietly  in  a  deep  hod,  and  it  frave  us  a  feeling  of 
inahility  to  t'nrd,  unless  it  >]irea(!  to  a  irreater  width 
further  on.  W'e  kej)t  lookint;  for  that  a<  we  skirted  its 
hanks,  when  in  the  (li>taiue  we  spied  yak.  ami  Kahini 
announced  that  they  were  saddled.  Unhim's  vision  was 
nuieh  keener  than  our-,  for  we  couhl  harely  verify  his 
words  by  means  of  our  telescope.  We  were  all  on  the 
ijui  live,  when  fcuddcnly  we  saw  some  white  tents,  and 


rXPOPl  LATED  DISTRICTS 


on  iicaii  i  iipiiKuK  li  <li-Lovri-,  i|  tlial  {\iv\v  wvrv  Tuiirti'i'ii 
of  tlicni,  having' iiljuut  l,'>00  vak  hikI  niaiiv  lior.H's.  Our 
\wiy  It'll  lliri>ii,uli  the  ct'iitrr  ol"  tlic  iiicainiHnciit  aiitl 
ii'il  iKnii  u'  \r:iV  \vi'  I'dilc  Up  ami  \\i  ;i'  n'rcix nl  in 
a  vers  I'ruiiills  iiiaiiiuT  In  lUv  tra\(lrrs,  nm-i  nl'  lifiu 
kiiiiw  us.  Tlu'V  lia'l  l)een  jut^t  one  inoritli  cnmint; 
rniiii  NajiflTuk'a  am!  w i  re  on  tlu-ir  way  tu  Ta:  !var.  .-o 
\\r  -I'lil  int'-sr_'''>  V,  lili  ihcni  tu  unr  rriciul.*.  I'.y  their 
"''''rr'"«  ''Vi-n  t llinJ^  Im'iii;;  sjtrrad  out  in  lln' 

^un  to  dry,  we  conchidod  that  the  river  in  fn)nt  of  us, 
atid  wliieh  tliey  had  just  erosscd,  was  very  deep;  aiu! 
lliniij.'!)  they  uanteil  iH  to  camp  hc-iilc  tiu'Mi,  we  wrnl 
on  I')  t'ord  tile  waters,  wliich  would  prul)al)ly  <i\\i-  us 
>ii(  h  a  wrttinf,'  that  we  would  need  to  >lop  on  the  otlier 
-hore  and  {fet  dried.  Tliere  were  the  l)ranelies,  ami 
\\\  If  the  li'D/iiK  uatclied  our  i)a>sa;;e  we  crossed  first 
oui'  then  anoiii'i',  ilic  liorxv-  iniiiiinj]:  .,1  Iitnes.  'I'ho 
oid\  one  \\\\i<  I  iijoyed  the  i'unliiij;  was  Charlie,  wiio 
sliouted  with  joy.  when  wo  all  called  out  to  the  horses 
lo  arouse  tli'  ir  eoura<;e  a>  well  as  oiii  The  sensa- 

tion of  (iinipinj;  .icr<iss  tlie  river  i'mni  I'r  'uds  was  pe- 
culiar. The  tents  ii  the  oppo.-ite  l)ank  looked  like  a 
town,  hut  in  the  morning  every  vesti^je  of  the  recent  iii- 
hahitants  wiMi  dwellings  was  gone,  and  we  were  aLraiii 
alniie.  We  1  tlie  wor.-t  storm  tliat  !iii;!il  \\f  had  e\- 
|)erien(ed  oil  the  mad,  and  it  seemed  as  if  tent  and 
everything  would  he  hlown  away,  but  we  steadied  the 
poles,  and  in  time  all  apparent  danger  was  past.  Later 
on  some  of  the  It-Djins  mu-l  ha\e  \i,-ited  oui'  camp,  for 
next  morning,  to  our  eonslernation,  live  of  our  hest 
animals   were   gone.     They   had    undoulitedly  been 


244  WITH  THE  TIBETAN'S 

^t(^l^'n.  II-  we  inut'il  tlniii  iiw.iy  down  to  a  river- 
•  rossinR  with  fontstt'iw  of  iinotlu-r  horw  ami  «log. 

'I'lii     cMi'i    iiiiirkfil   ilic   l)r;,'itiniiijr  of  sorrow.-,  for 

Clllll   ic  Ii:h1  lir;:iitl   :m  1  11'   'll-  Icctll.  >n  Wil-  <'illl-^injl  Its 

no  littir  iiiiMctv.  'Ill  W(  tnivclril  \(  r\  sliort  ^ta;;('s  aii<l 
lif  st'ctTH'il  to  iiiiprovi'.  even  thoujfh  a  glund  in  bis  iwi  k 
\va>  .-wnll.  ii.  (Ill  !  i  '  ink  of  a  laf;.'*'  rivci'  IJuliiin  shot 
and  killi  il  :i  v'.ilil  niiilc,  .-onic  i>f  uIki-i'  tlc-li  \vr  were 
ghid  to  UM'  I'ur  food.  iiaviiiK  tastni  no  inr.il  I'm'  many 
days. 

In  the  in«>-i  (l('~rrti(l  ri'L^ion  thnmjrh  uhnli  wi-  had 
vi't  pa-sed  \vi'  foni  I  t  iir-clvc.-  wiihnut  cniilc  In-i  (lv«' 
of  our  ]H'nit's  and  saw  llie  iiaiid  of  allhrtion  laid  upon 
our  little  child. 


CUAPTEU  XV. 

OAUKN  E»8. 

Waring  the  Dang  Im — Douth  of  our  Little  Son — The 
L(>tii'  (Jravf  Under  the  Boulder. 

Following  the  otcidontal  road  from  the  Ts'aidam  we 

liad  ns('('iiilf(l  iiiativ  pa-scs,  and  thoiij,'li  sotiu'  nf  them 
utTc  over  1(1,000  feet  alxnc  the  wa,  on  noiu'  of  tlicni 
ilid  we  find  old  snow,  and  licnce  the  snow-line  in  that 
region  cannot  l)e  h)wer  than  ahont  17,r><M)  feet.  WiUl 
iiiimii'  alxmnded  ni  many  I.Halilii's,  vak  suniftimes 
I'lMiig  visilili  ■  \(  n  near.  One  (inc  day  we  sur- 
prised a  nuniU  ;  ■  "  latt<T  wih'  li,  on  seeing  us, 
dashed  across  -  roam,  their  huge  tails  high 

in  the  air,  the  >,  in  their  headlonj:  n.-t;  i;.'  >  the 

wi!  r  rising  in  (cnuls.  pn-senting  a  iii.iLni  !  s'^lit. 
Wild  nudes  had  ht  i  ii  si'en  in  large  num.).  i  .  lally 
after  we  crossed  the  Mur-UPBU  river,  while  bears 
ami  antelopes  were  evervday  sights.  On  August  the 
twciitv-f  ',  after  wf  '■•  •'l  been  asfi  'img  f  i  several 
ilays.  we  found  our-  Iv  ■  traveling  direetly  south,  fol- 
lowing up  to  its  source  a  beautiful  stream  full  of 
stones,  probably  one  "f  the  Mur-ussu  high  waters.  In 
front  iif  were  the  Dang  1  noimtais.  snow-clad  and 
sunkissed,  towering  in  their  m..  r'p^y,  and,  to  us  tenfold 


240 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


nioic  iiiU'ii  sting  because  immciliati'ly  beyond  tliom  lay 
ihc  l.hii.si  (li-frict  of  Tibi't,  in  uliitli  tlie  <,^Ia(l  tidings 
ol'  till'  -(i>|)c'l  were  unkudwii,  and  in  uliicli  tin-  Dalai 
Lama  exercises  supreme  power,  temporal  and  spiritual, 
over  the  peojile.  Mdrctn i  r.  as  wi-  luiped  to  obtain  {KT- 
ni!s.-i(in  t<i  reside  in  lli.it  ili^tiict  hiiii,'  as  we  did  not 
altfni|>l  to  enter  the  Capita!,  it  seemed  that  our  jour- 
myiiii:-  Tor  the  present  were  almost  at  an  end.  This 
hiipe.  .nlilrd  to  the  fait  that  our  durliufi's  eifjlit  teeth, 
wliirli  had  iiecn  st rnLi>;lii\ir  to  ;;ct  llinuiu'li.  witc  now 
shining  white  above  tiie  guni-,  ri'viviil  dur  spirits  and 
we  all  sang  for  very  joy.  picking  iMtmpiets  of  bright  |»ink 
leguminou.s  Howers  as  we  went  along. 

The  iiionin  ,  of  the  darkest  day  in  our  history  aros(>. 
hrighl.  ehcen.  and  full  of  promise,  bearing  no  omen 
of  the  elond  that  was  about  to  fall  upon  us.  Our  break- 
fast wa.s  thoroughly  enjoyed,  Charlie  ate  more  heartily 
than  he  had  d  ■nc  for  m)mii'  days,  and  wc  rr-iuncd  our 
journey  full  of  hojir.  b'iding  alotivr  we  talked  of  the 
future,  its  plan-  its  work,  and  it>  unknown  suieesses 
and  failures,  of  tlu'  ])ossibility  of  going  to  the  Indian 
border  when  our  'ay  in  the  interior  was  over,  and  then 
of  l^'HIil:  home  to  America  and  Holland  before  we  re- 
turned to  Taiikar.  or  the  interior  of  Tibet  again. 
Fondly  our  imagination  followed  the  career  of  our  lit- 
tle ^oii  :  in  a  nionu'nt  years  were  ad'led  to  his  stature 
and  the  iiifaiii  had  grown  \o  the  frolicking  l)o\  full  of 
life  and  vigor,  alhir>t  for  knowledge  and  worthy  of 
the  very  best  instruction  we  e(mld  give  him.  With  what 
deliberation  we  deeidi  d  to  j^ive  his  education  our  pc»r- 
sonal  supervision,  and  what  itooks  we  would  procure 


DAllKXKSS 


247 


I'l.r  him — the  very  Lost  and  mo^l  scientilic  iti  Kngli^h. 
!  ;.  iu!i  jiml  (Jciiiimii.  "  llr  imi>l  liavc  a  li.ipiv  (hilil- 
l.  'iitl,"  ^ui(l  lu>  falliiT.  "  He  .-liiill  have  all  iho  l)lt>ck^, 
iijiins,  iockinj;-lu)i>t's'  an<l  clher  thiiifjs  that  boys  in 
ilie  homeland  have,  t*o  that  when  ho  shall  have  grown 
he  may  not  (vv\  that  bccau-L'  he  was  a  iiii-.-ionarv'- 
•oil,  he  liad  missoil  tho  joys  that  hnjrhtcn  other  boy.-" 
lives."  llow  the  tones  of  iiis  haliy  voice  raiij?  out  as 
we  rode  onward!  I  can  still  hear  him  shouting  lustily 
at  \hv  hniH'<  ill  iiiiitauon  of  Iii>  father  ami  Haliim. 

Smldeiily  a  lu  rd  ef  yak  en  th''  river  Itaiik  near  us 
leiii|ited  Hahiui  avay  to  try  a  sliot,  l)Ut  iIk  ;::iimals. 
seentinfr  danger,  rushed  off  into  the  hills  to  our  ri^ht ; 
;!ieii  across  the  river  we  saw  other  yak,  appart-nlly  some 
i  olatcd  ones,  comiiiLr  towards  luit  on  closer  e\am- 
iiialion  we  found  they  were  tame  yak  driven  liy  four 
mounted  men  aeoompanied  by  a  big,  while  «Iog.  The 
men  evidently  l«>longed  to  the  locality,  and  we  expected 
tl.ev  would  come  to  exehaiiijc  witli  us  ordinary  civili- 
ties, but  to  our  surprise  when  they  saw  us  they  »|uickly 
(Tossed  our  path,  and  studiously  evading  us.  disap- 
]K'ared  in  the  hills.  This  strange  conduct  on  their  i)art 
.iroiised  in  our  minds  .-u.-picions  as  to  their  intentions. 
Carefully  we  .-eleiled  a  campiuLr-place  hi<l(lell  by  little 
hills;  the  river  flowed  in  frtmt  and  the  pasture  was 
good. 

Thon^di  baby's  voi'v  had  becii  heard  ju>!  a  I'i'w  mo- 
ments previous,  Mr.  Uijuhart  .slid  he  had  fallen  asleep; 
.-o,  as  usual,  Rahim  dismounted  and  t(K)k  him  from  his 
lather's  arms  in  ord»'r  that  he  might  not  l>e  di^turh.Ml 
Linfil  the  tent  was  pitched  ami  his  food  prepared.  1 


248 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


had  also  dismounted  and  spread  on  the  ;,'r<)iind  the  com- 
forlcr  :in(l  i)ill()\v  1  carritMl  on  my  >:u\dU'.  Uahim  V(>rv 
tfiuicrly  laid  our  lovely  boy  down,  and,  while  1  knelt 
ready  to  cover  him  comfortably,  his  appearance  at- 
tracted my  attention.  I  went  to  move  liim.  and  found 
that  lie  was  llluoIl^■(■io^l^.  A  ^M-i-at  fear  chilli'd  me  and 
1  calli'd  out  to  Mr.  Uijnhail  tliat  1  tVlt  an.vious  for 
bahy,  and  asked  him  to  (juiekly  <;et  me  the  hypodermic 
syringe.  Kahim  asked  me  what  was  tlie  matter,  and 
on  niv  rcplv  a  look  of  |>ain  (  rossei!  l\is  face,  as  he  Iias- 
teiicii  to  lu  l|)  my  luisliand  proeure  the  liy|»odermie.  In 
tiu'  nuantiine  I  loosened  baliyV  jrarinents,  chafed  his 
wrists,  performed  artificial  respiration,  though  feeling 
aimo-i  Mire  tliat  notliini:  would  avail,  but  praxing  to 
lliin  whn  linlds  all  life  in  His  bands,  to  let  us  have  our 
dailitif,'  child.  Did  lie  not  know  how  we  loved  him 
and  ccmld  it  he  possible  that  the  very  joy  of  our  life, 
the  only  liunian  thing  that  made  life  and  labor  sweet 
amid  the  deM)lation  and  i~idalion  of  'j'ibet — could  it 
be  possible  ibat  even  this — the  cliild  of  our  love  should 
Im>  snatch(?d  from  us  in  that  dreary  mountain  country — 
by  the  cold  chill  hand  of  Dralb?  What  availed  mir 
cll'ort-  In  restore  iiimy  What  a\aiU'd  our  (piestion- 
ings":"  The  Idow  had  already  fallen,  and  we  realized 
that  we  clasped  in  our  arms  only  the  casket  which  had 
held  (iiir  preciou-  jewel;  the  jewel  it.-i'If  had  been 
taken  for  a  hriL'hter  -riling  in  a  Ijrigliler  wni'ld  ;  the 
little  Uower  blnuming  on  the  bleak  and  barren  Dang 
I.a  had  been  plucked  an<l  transplanted  on  the  Moun- 
tains Delectable  to  bask  ami  bloom  forever  in  the  -tm- 
shine  of  (Jod's  love.   But  oh  I  what  a  void  in  our  hearts! 


DA UK X ESS 


249 


How  I'lnpty  and  desolate  our  tent,  which  in  the  mi'un- 
liiiic  hml  Im  i'ii  pitrlu  il  .iml  scrni a  iiill y  riitfn  tl  !  I'oor 
IJahim.  who  hail  .-o  ilcaiiy  luvt'd  the  iliihl,  liroko  out 
in  hmd  lamentations,  vvailing  as  only  orientals  can,  but 
witii  real  sorrow,  for  liis  lire  had  Ix'fomi-  mi  >  ntwinod 
witli  till'  I  lnl(l">  thai  he  felt  tlic  siiap|>in,L''  "f  tin'  licart- 
striiiffs.  And  what  of  llic  lailier,  now  hcri'ft  uf  liis  only 
son,  his  only  child,  which  just  a  few  moments  Ix'fore 
he  had  elapsc'd  warm  to  his  bosonu  knowing;  not  how 
faint  till'  little  lieart-licat  was  arrowing?  We  tried  to 
think  of  It  eniilicinistically,  we  lifted  our  liearts  in 
prayer,  we  tried  to  i)e  suhniissive.  but  it  was  all  so  real — 
the  one  fact  stared  us  in  the  face:  it  was  written  on 
the  ri)(k-:  it  reverberated  tliroufrh  the  mountain  si- 
len(c :    l.itllc  Charlie  was  dead. 

A>  1  sat  in  the  teiil  clasping'  the  fair  fortn  of  my 
darlinp,  Mr.  Rijnhart  tenderly  n-ininded  me  that  the 
Tibetan.-  do  not  hiirv  their  dead,  lnit  Miiiplv  throw 
the  body  di'void  of  rlothiiii:  out  upon  thr  hill.-ide  to 
be  devouri'tl  by  the  bea.-t>  of  ih.'  lii'ld  ami  the  fowls  of 
the  air.  If  the  men  whom  so  recently  we  had  s»M»n 
and  whose  action-  ui  re  >o  ion-,  .-hoiild  '-.iiiie  to 

rob  US,  ihev  would,  he  fraicd,  ili-po>e  (d"  oui"  dai'lin^r's 
iiixly  as  was  their  custom,  and  that  would  he  t<i  us  a 
still  jrreater  trial  than  the  loss  of  our  fjoods:  and  go, 
rt  luctantly  and  tenderly  he  >ULr;:(  -if d.  in  M\oid  such  a 
cahiiiiitv,  that  o\ir  prccion-  litlir  Imv  -ihnih!  have  a 
Christian  sepulture  on  that  very  day.  Kneeling  to- 
gether we  prayeil  that  Ood  who  loved  us  and  whose 
children  we  were,  would  uuike  us  stron<r  and  bravc 
Our  drup  bo.\.  emptied  of  its  contents,  ami  Ituetl  with 


250 


WTTII  THE  TIBKTAXS 


tuui  served  ii>  .1  eodin,  whioh  I  myself  prepare-',  liile 
Mr.  Ii'i  jiiliiirt  ami  Ifjiliim  v, mt  tn  iIilt  the  iziave.  With 
hands  uh(i>e  1  \(  rv  tiuich  throlilted  witli  temleniess  I 
rok'd  l)iil>y  in  white  Japam-sie  flannel,  and  hiid  him  on 
hifj  side  in  the  cnltin.  where  he  hM)ked  so  pure  and  ealni 
if  he  were  in  ;i  ^weei  ami  re-tfnl  ^leen.  Tn  hi-^  lianil 
wa*  jtlaeed  a  little  luuu  h  nf  wild  a-ters  and  hlne  pop- 
pies whieli  Rahini  ;^atliered  from  thi'  mountain  side, 
and  as  the  afternoon  wore  away  he  seemed  to  frrow 
tnore  lieantiful  and  |)recioii>:  imt  iiiu'i!  \\a~  eoniinu' 
oil  and  dani:er>  thre;itene(l.  and  the  la>i  wniu-M  must 
eome.  .Many  of  his  little  heloiiLMiiirs  were  |inl  into  the 
eollin,  aecompanied  hy  onr  names  written  on  a  piece  of 
linen  and  on  rard-.  Tlieii  thiTc  wa-  tin  au'onv  of  the 
last  look.  Our  oidv  elnld.  who  had  liioii'jht  -r.rh  jov 
to  oiir  home,  and  who  had  done  so  much  hv  his  l»ri,i;ht 
ways  to  make  friends  for  ns  amonjr  the  natives — to 
leave  his  hodv  in  .-ui  h  a  1  (dd.  hleak  |)laee  s"em.  d  more 
than  we  coidd  endaie.  .\s  the  tlim'  of  -tond  over 
the  <rrave,  the  little  ho\  was  lowered.  Mr.  Ii'ijnhart 
eondueted  the  hurial  serviee  in  the  native  tongue,  so 
that  Ifahim  mi<.dit  nnder>tand.  and  tlie  («ild  earth  of 
'I'ilirt.  the  <rreaf  forhiddi'n  land,  elo-ed  o\cr  ihe  hodv 
of  the  first  riiristian  child  coiiiinitted  to  its  hosom — 
little  Charles  Carson  Rijtdiart.  aped  one  year,  one 
;ii'.i)tli  and  twcnl\-tu(i  dav.~.  Mr.  Rijnhart  and  Rahiin 
!'olled  a  lar^fi'  lioiddi'r  o\cr  ihi'  ijtave  to  k-erji  uHd  mii- 
mals  from  di;.'<,Mn;.'  it  up,  and  ohliterated  a>  well  as  pos- 
sible all  traces  of  a  recent  l)iirial.  There  was  another 
reason  for  this.  The  native^  often  hiiry  jT'XxIs  when 
I  heir  tran.sport  animals  hreak  down,  and  rohlwr?  search 


DARKNKSS 


251 


for  booty  wliinvcr  tliey  liiul  the  surface  of  the  ground 

(liMiirlH'<l.  ir  a  \\  -hmilil  discover  <nir  little  ^n;ive  we 
kiu'u  tli(  \  wniild  (li-.tuil)  it.  and  in  tlii'ir  di!^a|)pointiueiit 
tlfs^iriatc  it  witli  wanton  iudiirirfnco.  When  the  funeral 
was  over  we  went  to  tlie  tent,  but  could  we  eat  footl? 
(uidil  we  drink  tea?  kuiM  wc  vU>>v  (Hir  tar-  to  tlic 
I'rcn/.ictl  iiinnrniii'r  of  IJahiin'  \Vc  cniild  only  say, 
"  I^ord  wi-  arc  .-.Iriikm  with  yru'i",  wl-  cannot  see  why 
this  should  be,  but  help  us  to  say  *  Thy  will  Ik-  doi.e.' " 
Less  tli.Mi  a  ni'iiuli  at'tcruard  uc  realized  li  it  tlu'  All 
I.nviii;;-  hail  di'alt  very  kindly  with  u-  in  takin<i  our 
littlf  darling'  wlirn  we  wric  ((inirortahlc,  when  ui-  had 
plenty  of  food  for  him,  a  tent  to  shn-p  in  and  horses  to 
ride  on;  for  later  we  fonnd  our.-elves  willi  hanly 
eiioiifih  eoiiiniiiii  Inod  to  evist  on  I'nr  a  few  day,-,  while 
we  traveled  on  foot,  .Mr.  Wijiihart  carrying  on  liii-  baek 
a  heavy  load. 

When  night  eaine  on  the  sky  was  umisiially  dark. 
What  more  littiiig  than  a  nocturnal  after  the  in- 

ward tumult  of  the  day?  The  thunder  rolleil,  the 
lightnin,!.'  Hashed,  while  from  the  sable  clouds  in  tor- 
rents fell  tlie  rain,  which  as  the  winds  grew  colder.  wa> 
eniiL'ealed  into  -now.  We  emdil  not  sleep.  We  eouid 
only  think  of  our  preeio\is  one  and  he  thankful  that  the 
lu.dy  from  whieh  the  vital  spark  had  lied,  had  no  power 
to  feel  the  chill  of  the  mountain  blast.  The  little  fel- 
low's bed  had  always  been  made  of  l)laiikets  and  furs, 
while  everv  preeautioii  had  bc-en  taken  to  exelude  any 
draft  from  his  corner,  and  now  what  need  had  we  to  be 
careful?  No  need,  for  he  slept  not  with  us,  but  in 
another  world,  free  from  all  care,  and  future  sorrow- 


232 


U  nil  rilK  TlliKTANS 


in;:.    I>t'ar  rliiltl.  now.  as  then,  it  is  still  well  with  lh«;i'. 

Hii  ;iri>iii;:  llic  I'nllow  iiiL'  iniiriiin;:  Ikiw  I  tnisscd  liiiii. 
I'nr  there  \\ii>  no  litlle  hoy  to  (ll■l■^s,  tio  one  lo  jovoiisly 
relish  his  fooii.  waleliiii^  the  >|)i)ciii  ,1,'n  haekwanis  and 
forwards  for  every  fresh  sfMrnnful.  When  the  time  camo 
for  dt'partiirc  a  .-nnnv\rn|  I'ii n  u «■! I  ol'  thi-  little 

^'ravf  with  it-  prutiitiiij;'  iiuiildcr  it\'  .-t reiigth.  It 
seinit'd  illl|)()^^ihle  to  tiMT  ourselves  away,  knowing  thai 
every  step  took  us  further  from  the  spot  that  held  (»ur 
!!i(»t  precious  treasure,  with  the  eomiit ion  that  we 
.-houhi  proi):ilily  nr\cr  ii  tiirii  there  a^'ain.  !!•  I'or-e  h'.iv- 
ing  We  covenanted  llial  hy  (Jod's  lull)  ^^"iild  .-eek 
to  he  instnimental  in  seinling  out  another  missionary 
to  Tihcl.  in  the  name  of  our  little  he.  Mr.  h'ljnhart. 
ill-trad  id'  inounlinu'  Tn^t  and  haxinu  'iaKy  handed  to 
him  a^  was  his  eu>toiii,  tenderly  phieed  me  in  the  >ad- 
dlp,  and  all  thriH*  of  us  sohhinji,  we  tore  ourstdves  away. 
Following  the  stream  we  saw  some  hears  with  their 
euhs  digging  for  roots — and  again  we  felt  thankful  for 
the  strong  houlder  over  the  little  grave.  If  Mr.  Hijii- 
hart  could  s])eak.  he  would  wish  to  say  some  word  in 
trihute  to  hi-  little  ^o^,  hiit  rince  hi-;  voii-e  is  silent, 
what  more  lilting  than  to  clo-e  tins  chaiiler  a  ipiota- 
tion  from  his  diary,  dated  August  v!;!.  I  lie  liay  of  our 
departure,  from  this,  to  us.  the  nv»st  sacred  spot  in 
Tibet?  It  roads  thus:  "To-day  we  .started  with 
iii'oken  heart-,  leaving  the  bo<ly  of  oiir  pri  i  lous  one 
I'chind  in  regions  of  eternal  <no«.  wliere  ihr  mother 
of  the  Yangtse  Kiang  flows  trampiilly  pa-t.  lli>  grave 
is  on  the  western  hank  of  one  of  the  southern  branches 
of  the  Mur-ussu,  at  the  foot  of  the  Dang  Iai  raoun- 


DAKKNKSS 


253 


tains,  a  litllr  ovor  two  hours  north   of  the  mineral 

sprinjrs  of  llic  DiiMji  l.n,  jiikI  ;\}>n[]\  frn  liniirs'  travel 
from  tlic  lu'iirot  /•'//»/  iMicampiuent  in  the  Lhasa  dia- 
trict  under  Nagch'uk'a." 


C'llAI'TKK  XVI. 


BEYOND  THE  DANG  LA, 

Accostod  l>v  Oniciiil  Spic-. — Our  Kscapo — The  Natives 
I'.nv  of  tilt'  Scriptures — Our  Kstort  tu  the 

I'olllin's  Tent. 

I'roiii  the  uortli  it  occn|ii<'>  ;i  pcriinl  of  -cvcnil  iliiv> 
tu  liiiil)  slowly  In  till'  ^iimiiiil  of  the  Dan;;;  ha.  and 
•ixtlvr  the  first  sudden  steep  descent  on  the  south  the 
road  leads  down  ^'r.idnally  for  days,  and  i>  coniiia la- 
tively  ca-y  t ravclinL;-  for  liotli  man  and  animal.  'riioii;^li 
it  was  warm  vvhcn  llie  sun  shont'  hri^litiy.  on  the  ni;:lit 
of  Au^'ust  25  there  was  aln\ost  an  inch  of  frost  and  the 
firewood  was  wet.  Some  of  n-  liad  to  ^o  supperless  to 
i>e(l.  and  <ould  not  have  any  l»reakfa~t.  luit  on  *'ie  road 
Toji-y  eau;rlit  a  lar^'e  hare,  and  in  one-half  hour  we 
a})pronched  the  first  Tihetan  encampniciii,  on  she  oppo- 
site hank  of  the  Danp  Chu,  whose  downward  course  wo 
li.id  heen  ft;H  i\vin^'.  After  fnnr  hours  we  crossed  it 
and  laniji.  1  on  the  west  hank.  Siiortly  hefore  crofs- 
in^  two  nun  heavily  armed  came  over  and  nxh-  np 
clo;-e  behind  us,  tlien  returned  to  the  opposite  hank, 
and  as  they  dnl  not  speak  to  us.  we  presumed  thev  laul 
been  spying'  our  movements.  .\  con-iderahl v  lower  alti- 
tude had  provided  abundance  of  fuel,  and  the  day  bcin^ 

254 


BtlVOM)  TllK  1).\N(.  LA 


255 


warm  wo  halted  mid  took  advaiitiip'  of  tho  wi'Icoino 
ojiportiiiiitv  of  iiiakiii;:  lircad.  and  liaviii;,'  a  dflicioiis 
meal  of  ri(v  and  liaic.  As  'rop.-y  had  jiroMdi-d  the  lul- 
tiT  !*ho  was  not  for<rotton. 

Although  wi'  had  Ikh-h  R'en  hy  tho  people  of  tlio  hirgc 
eiu-aiii|»iii('nt>  ahout  no  om-  caiiic  near  us  and  "c 
woro  not  an\iou>  to  court  intcri't'Toncc,  so  stayed  away 
from  their  tents.  In  the  night  one  of  our  horses  most 
ino|»iinrt unely  died,  and  tho  next  luoniin;!  Uahini  and 
Mr.  Ifijniiart  were  (oinpelled  to  walk  and  ride  alter- 
nately. After  having  been  on  the  r.ind  aliout  three 
liours,  wo  were  met  on  a  beautiful  slope  \>y  eight  mounted 
Tibetans,  who  were  armed  with  gun-  and  swords,  and 
liiiike(l  very  dilTerent  from  any  oilier  'i'liielans  we  had 
ever  met.  They  were  all  very  dirty,  wore  sheepskin 
gowns,  girt  so  high  that  h«*  they  sat  on  iM»rs<!!iack  thoir 
knees  w<'re  bare.  Some  of  them  had  their  hair  done 
lip  in  a  (|Uone  oi'iianiented  with  rini;-  of  ivoiv  oi-  yilver 
set  with  coral,  ail  bound  around  their  he.id-;  while 
others  had  their  bushy  looks  hanging  alMMit  thoir  faces, 
giving  thorn  the  appearanee  of  wild  men.  They  all 
n-ed  >nun'.  beiii!:  verv  <lirlv  aliout  it,  pla-;ering  it  over 
till-  nostrils  and  upper  lijt.  .\s  we  rode  along  they 
t.irnod  and  rode  with  us,  asking  such  <iuostions  as, 
"  Have  you  any  merehandise?  "  "Where  are  you  go- 
in<:?"  Thev  were  soon  joined  liv  two  otiiei--  from  the 
vallev  who  were  lioili  well  dre-scil.  Inii  not  any  cleaner 
liian  tlu'ir  comrades,  .\fter  having  reviewed  the  situ- 
ation two  of  them  rode  on  ahead  and  in  a  short  time 
were  lost  to  sight.  e\iilently  having  gone  to  repMft  our 
advent  to  their  chief,  for  we  were  satisfied  that  this 


WITH  THKTIBKTANS 


was  a  .'^mali  party  >f  attaches  of  the  povornmpiit  at 
Naiich'uk'u.  win.  i  watching'  ko'p  any  fni  -ihT' 
I'miii  t'liti'iiiiL:  their  d'ltuaiii'.  Mr.  Kijiitiart,  italuin 
ami  iny.-i'li  luok  i  nv  liu-nci'forth  as  wo  travdiMl  t'^  coii- 
vorse  only  in  a  laiig^uage  which  the  TiiH-rans  did  not 
tiiidorxtaiii!.  ami  afii  i  discus.^iii}:  the  situatini  .  wi'  i!.- 
<'i(!(  to  im-.i  on  ju-l  a>  far  a-  we  wen'  aiilc  thai  da\. 
So  not  I'Vfii  j-t<'|'iMiiji  r>>r  liuitli.  >iii  wc  went,  until  u. 
wore  wcarv  and  tired,  cspocially  Kaliitn.  who  refused 
to  ridi-  III  ilii'  presence  of  others  while  his  master 
u,ili\('(l.  \\  lien  ui'  iicared  a  rivrr,  (nif  <•!'  [hr  mm  caiiii' 
to  tell  us  that  when  we  cam[X'd  near  it,>  imiiks  we  wi  re 
to  remain  until  their  two  companions  returned  from 
Nagehuk'a  with  permission  for  us  to  proceed;  where- 
upon Mr.  Rijuhart  informal  him  ihat  we  were  U"inu  In 
,-ce  the  oHiiial,  tliiK>  followiii};  a  loiivietioii  established 
Ity  much  experience,  that  it  is  iR-ttor  to  go  to  head- 
"piarters  than  deal  with  f)etty  chiefs  who,  having  no 
iiiiirjiciiili  Ml  .iiitliority,  are  ((luipcllrd  !■»  jjo  ol>edient 
to  Ihi  ir  Miperor-  and  tluTefort-  ari)itrary. 

When  we  ha  1  forded  the  Shak  Chu  we  camped 
about  one  hundred  yards  from  tht»  spot  where  the 
Tibetans  had  now  pitched  their  rafTfjed  brown  tont. 
Thi-y  Wen  all  very  friendly,  for  tlicy  <  anie  om  t 
and  !-al  f n  i  ly  about  our  tent-lire,  chatting'  witli  liahiia 
and  through  him  "vilh  Mr.  Itijidiart,  who  did  not  wish, 
under  the  circumstances,  to  be  familiar  with  them,  re- 
fraiiiini:  fimii  fj;"''iJ^  either  out  to  them  or  invitiu;; 
them  to  come  in.  They  told  Hahim  that  ikj  foreigner 
liad  ever  pa-red  tliat  pi  i'  c  and  they  did  not  intend  to 
allow  us  to.   Their  plans  were  I'.ot  commensurate  with 


HKYONI)  THK  DAXU  l,A 


tlu'ir  intt  iiti(»ti>.  for  in  tin-  ilcad  of  tlu-  niglil  while  thev 
.-li'pt  souiiilly.  wv  aruM'  <|iiiftly.  {tacked  our  loails.  took 
ilowii  niir  iciii  ulirii  ur  ui  rv  jii-t  iciulv  to  Start,  anil 
inoiiiil III!,'  I'll!  |i.ini('.-.  rodf  .lu.iv.  'riic  iniioii  i.Mvi' 
I'litiii^'li  In  a\oitl  tlu'  pit  rail-,  u  iili  w  liidi  ucre  m- 

itTspcrMil  tliuH'  small  tnfts  of  frrass  that  tnaki-  it  so 
tiilVK  nil  In  ri<li'  amniiK  ilicm  witliont  iiliinui:  :'  in  tin* 
iiiin-.  Sili'iitly  our  lilllc  r,iia\aii  a-.rndcil  al'iii;.'  a 
>toiiy  trail,  the  Kliaiiilini;;  l.a.  and.  a^  the  lilu-ii  uf 
•  lawn  ovtTsprcail  thi'  lands* afM-.  \w  had  iK'-run  the  dc- 
-lent  on  till'  oilier  -idc  -i  ramhlinvr  tlirou'^li  a  \ct\  ~toiiv 
road  uilli  lai'^i'  lioiildor-  ll-.ii  made  it  hard  f  ir  u>  |o  iroi 
oiir  loaded  lior.-i'-i  pa-l  in  .«-afct\.  I'le-enl ly  we  had 
Miiilicd  a  iH-aulifiil  pi, tin  dotted  with  tent-  and  nicrg- 
in;;  into  low  hilN,  tlif  u'lolc  clollied  with  j;r»t'ii  fjrass, 
.1  ers-lal  strejiiii  tlowm^  thron;,di  it  lir' Mm;,'  o\er  its 
I'l'd  .r  Miiall  stoiii-.  A  man  well  dii'.->ed  m  yy/z/w,  vscar- 
ini,'  ornaments  enonjrh  to  indicate  wealth,  as  far  as  in 
till-  loiintry  a  man  <an  have  \\<  Ith,  rode  up  in  a  very 
I'rii'ii'llN  inaiuier.  iiil'oriiniiu'  n^  tl  at  the  -trcani  wa-  the 
Sapo  Cliii.  and  that  the  di.-tri't  was  called  Sa|>o.  He 
[Hiiiited  to  his  tents,  of  which  there  were  live,  and  in- 
vited us  to  stay  near  him,  in  order  that  wi-  tni;,'lit  do 
-oine  trading.',  so  we  halted  five  I  uidred  yard-  from 
111-  eiii  ainpineiit.  The  population  of  Sapo  is  e-l imali  d 
at  one  hundred  and  fifty  tents,  and  the  chief,  who  lived 
we-t  from  our  <-amp.  pays  trilnile  to  tin-  Chinese  arn- 
li,i--ador  at  Lha-a.  When  we  !ir>t  halted.  t!ie  ^'roiiiid 
ua-  very  wet  from  the  fm-i  whii  h  •rli-leued  on  every 
blade  of  jjrass,  so  we  postponed  pitcliirt;,'  our  tent  until 
it  w.  -  dry,  and  while  wc  waited  our  guards  of  the  previ- 


258 


WITH  Till-:  TIliKTANS 


ous  night  wero  ?oen  <rallopiii<T  swiftly  towards  us.  llav- 
in,<r  arrived  llicv  (li>innuiit('<l  and  ihrnwinir  tlu'insclvc- 
on  ilie  ground  hosuk'  us,  they  lauglied  luartily,  telling 
us  that  we  wore  smart  to  liave  escaped  from  them  in 
that  way.  A  wreath  of  -miles  ;i1m>  civi'red  Hahim's 
I'aee,  for  he  with  nui'>clve>  felt  a  little  dtd)ious  about 
they  way  they  would  receive  our  deeaniiting  as  we  did; 
hut  so  thorougldy  do  the  Tihet  ins  enjoy  outwitting 
their  neighl)ors  that  though  they  were  the  sufferers  they 
dis])layed  their  native  eharaeteristie  in  approval. 

We  s])ent  two  day.s  in  this  locality,  having  pleasant 
intercourse  with  the  inhabitants,  and  doing  consider- 
ahle  bartering,  for  we  were  in  need  of  meat,  fre.sh  but- 
ter and  milk.  For  the  first  time  among  Tihetans  we 
had  brought  to  us  for  sale  some  legs  of  mutton.  In 
the  Koko-nor  oidy  the  whole  sheep,  and  never  a  part 
of  it.  can  be  l)ought.  The  most  useful  articles  for  bar- 
tering here  were  Wnchni  Matus  and  red  hrnadcloth, 
the  hitter  being  ustd  for  making  collars,  for  trimming 
boots,  and  to  adorn  the  headdress  of  the  women.  We 
traded  some  Tankar  boots  for  the  kind  used  in  this 
li.iality,  and  liahiin  bought  a  prayer-wheel,  made  of 
silver  >et  wi*h  coral  and  stones. 

We  thought  the  people  were  very  filthy  as  they  pre- 
sented the  appearance  of  never  washing  their  faces; 
but  they  brouglit  their  good  horses  to  the  river  near  us 
and  ;;.'"!cr  havin;:  driven  them  inio  a  deep  iilace  where 
only  their  heads  were  above  water,  they  gave  them  a 
tliorough  cleaning  and  left  us  to  wonder  why  they  did 
not  consider  water  was  good  for  human  beings  as  well 
as  for  horses. 


BEYOXD  Till-:  DAX(i  I-A 


2o9 


The  clothing  of  Tibetan  women  in  all  parts  of  Tibet 
is  made  after  the  same  i)attein,  so  that  little  variation 
except  in  headdress  is  uot  ceable  even  in  districts  most 
widely  separated.  In  some  localities,  however,  aprons 
•  re  worn  and  in  otiier-  little  sKh'vi'Ic.-s  jackets.  But 
the  women  here  altraeted  our  attention  at  once  by  a 
jieeuliar  fashion  of  headdress.  We  had  often  read  of 
the  women  smearing  their  faces  with  a  repulsive  cos- 
metic of  black  sticky  paste  in  order  that  by  their  beauty 
iliey  might  not  allure  the  lamas  from  their  devotions, 
iiut  these  women  here  with  the  same  purpose,  in- 
>tead  of  painting  had  their  hair  arranged  so  that  it  fell 
over  the  face,  hiding  it  from  view.  T.irted  in  the  center 
il  was  woven  in  tine  plaits  from  the  middle  of  tlie 
forehead  on  either  side,  and  the  plaits  were  .astened 
together,  forming  meshes  like  a  coarse  veil,  the  two 
sides  being  separate.  When  they  wished  from  eo- 
(pietry  or  otherwise  to  cover  the  face,  thev  ]>ulled  the 
veil  of  hair  down,  first  one  and  then  the  other  side, 
fastening  the  two  sections  opposite  the  chin  by  means 
of  a  button,  making  a  distinctly  original  mask  through 
wliicli  tiK'ir  iiriglit  eyes  could  see  everything.  l)Ut  could 
not  be  seen.  It  was  rather  amusing  to  watch  a  good- 
looking  young  woman  or  girl  in  her  piilii  gown  and 
ornaments,  hastily  pull  her  veil  of  plaits  over  her  face 
when  a  lanui  or  a  stranger  ap|U'oaclicd.  Sometimes  the 
action  was  a  g(\stiire  of  grace,  accompanied  by  a  smile 
which  flashed  across  her  face  and  in  her  eyes.  A  cheery, 
good-natured  woman  of  about  thirty-five  came  to  olTer 
for  sale  a  little  wooden  biickc-tfid  of  fresh  milk,  ask- 
ing about  three  times  as  much  for  it  as  she  expected 


260 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


to  receivo,  wliilo  we  oirored  as  iiuicli  less  in  the  sanu* 
juoportinii  as  we  c.viHH  tod  to  <xi\v,  whereupon,  as  was 
also  tiio  tiistoni,  she  put  it  down  and  seated  herself  near 
liiv  ;()  I  iijnv  liir  i,r!;ri'al  coll veI•^a I ioii .  After  about 
!;Miii-  .-lie  iix  k  \\\>-  luickri  u]>,  ihcrel)y  intiiiialiui; 
tlial  we  were  to  roiuiileti'  tlif  liarpain,  when,  lifting  the 
cover  she  discovered  that  the  precious  liquid  had  all 
leakeil  out.  i-",vcrvniic  laiiu'i'''!  al  her  and  said  she  dc- 
M'rvcil  till'  .-i-  >hc  hi'.d  a.-kcd  too  mukIi  for  the  milk; 
in  fiut  .-lu'  jomcil  heart ilv  in  the  laugh  herseli".  The 
women  canu'  freely  to  our  tent  and  sat  around  our 
camp-tire.  As  lun-l  of  llicir  cwu  tents  weri'  acros-  tli'' 
stream  thcv  wouhl.  when  ^lun^'  home,  sit  down  hc.-idc  th;' 
hank,  remove  their  elolli  l)ools  and,  gathering  up  their 
.•ikirts,  trip  across  on  the  stone.*,  laughing  and  chatting 
merrily  all  the  time.  The  men  who  came  about  us  were, 
in  common  witii  tlieir  race,  anxious  to  drive  a  bargain, 
but  they  were  above  the  average  in  intelligence.  .\ 
certain  number  of  them  were  able  to  read  and  to  our 
surprise  manifested  an  ar.dent  desire  to  secure  copies 
of  the  Scriptures  in  tlie  Tibetan  cliaraeter.  In  no  othi'i- 
part  of  Tibet  had  we  ever  lieen  offered  money  for  the 
books,  but  here  peojile  came  from  far  and  near  an.xious 
to  get  them  and  offering  in  return  silver,  or  anything 
else  we  might  wisli  to  a-k.  Many  of  Mr-,  (irinikt's 
text  cards  were  here  distributed,  and  1  look  back  on 
our  stay  among  those  friendly  people  with  great  pleas- 
ure, remembering  the  promise  that  "  My  word  *  *  * 
shall  not  return  unto  me  void."'  The  Word  ef  (iod  has 
been  .scattered  foi'  tlie  lir^-t  time  amoiit:  them,  and  we 
ill)  not  know  what   far-!".;cliing  re.-uhs  will  follow. 


BEYOXD  THE  DANG  LA 


2C1 


The  people  in  Sapo  have  a  greater  ailmiration  ami 
reverence  for  Jerimpoche,  the  great  incarnation  at 
Trat^hirunpo,  than  they  have  for  the  Dalai  Laina. 
From  this  district  pil;rriiiis  frequently  to  worship 
.Icriinpoc-he,  Iicncc  llicrc  i<  a  h!^;Iuv;iy  loading?  directly 
across  the  country.  The  pe(jplc  suggested  our  follow- 
ing that  route,  saying  that  a  lama  was  about  to  start 
for  Sliigiitsze  in  a  short  time  and  we  could  go  with 
him.  However,  ve  had  told  our  guides  that  we  were 
going  to  see  the  chief  at  Nagch"uk"a,  and  to  deviate  to- 
wards another  place  would  give  rise  to  suspicion,  per- 
haps getting  us  into'  trouble ;  besides  which  this  other 
road  probably  presented  the  same  obstacles  as  the  road 
we  had  at  lirst  intended  to  follow.  Wiiile  trading  here 
we  made  use  for  the  lirst  time  of  the  Tibetan  coin 
called  chong  ka,  a  round  beaten  silver  coin  divided  by 
lines  into  eight  parts  whicn  are  cut  when  small  pieces 
are  wanted.  Right  of  these  coins  are  worth  one  Chi- 
nese tael.  Rupees  were  also  used  in  that  locality,  ana 
nearly  every  man  had  a  pretty  leather  purse,  often  set 
with  corals,  in  which  to  carry  coins. 

While  we  journeyed  the  following  day  attended  l>y 
three  soldiers,  it  stormed  furiously,  and  Mr.  Rijnhart 
and  Rahim  walked  the  whole  distance.  We  met  several 
people  on  horseback  who  invariably  stopped  us,  and 
inquired  if  we  wished  to  buy  any  horses  or  sheep. 
We  were  reminded  of  the  men  who  visited  Hue 
and  (iabet,  and  wanted  to  Iiiiy  saddles  of  them  but  were 
really  spies.  We  saw  one  man  nii  horseback  carrying 
a  bright  red  umbrella,  showing  how  Chinese  civiliza- 


2C2 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


tion,  in  some  of  its  varied  forms,  has  found  its  way 
into  rciiiolc  comers  of  tlic  grcnt  luiiipiro. 

Fmiu  our  road  as  \vu  wearily  journovcd  along,  we 
caujjht  -liiiii)ses  of  the  beautiful  Chomora  Lake  at  tiraea 
hidden  from  \    'v  by  the  hills  but  in  its  quiet  nness, 
su-ip-tii)!:-  caliiiiic's  aixl  rc-t  on  it>  shores  away  from 
iho  toil  of  traveling,  wliieh  siiue  liaby  was  gone  had  lost 
its  charms.  The  journey  became  tedious  and  life  had  no 
longer  for  us  the  rosy  liue>  that  .-weet  childhood  relleets 
upon  it.    I'.eiHitifiil  rivulets  hahhleil  near  the  roadside 
which  skirted  the  liills.  and  iinally  we  camped  near  tents, 
whose  dwellers  cheerfully  gave  Rahim  some  fuel  in  ex- 
change for  a  khata,  while  near  us  without  any  tents 
camped  our  guards,  now  only  two  in  nuinher.  The 
tvxl  uiorning  when  we  had  traveled  about  three  hours, 
aftt  I  erosMiig  a  low  pass,  we  were  suddenly  confronted 
by  nearly  forty  men,  who  had  pitched  a  tent  and  were 
evidently  awaiting  our  coming.    .Vesociatiug  the  tent 
with  the  removal  of  his  load,  our  most  lively  horse 
went  straight  up  to  it,  literally  into  the  arms  of 
the  men,  and  Rahim  went  quickly  to  drive  him  back, 
but  seeing  that  it  was  inipo.->ilile  Mr.  I'ijidiart  aKo 
went  over.    Tlie  Tibetans  gatliered  about  him  and  one 
oi'  them,  well-dressed  in  jinlii.  having  in  his  hand  a 
jira\(r-wheei,  profusely  invited  him  to  enter  the  tent 
to  drink  tea.  the  others  seconding  the  invitation.  Feel- 
ing that  this  \va-  ;   rus(>  to  have  u<  stop,  my  husl)and 
laug'.ungly  passi'd  it  otf,  saying  that  we  had  our  loaded 
horses  to  look  after,  and  that  in  a  short  time  we  would 
be  camping  anyway.    Thcv  then  sai<l  tlioir  ponho.  or 
chief,  was  coming  to  see  us.  and  received  for  reply  that 


REYHXT)  THE  DAXG  LA 


203 


.11'  ueri'  oil  our  u  .iv  to  ,-i't'  liiiii.  Only  tlic  ^rcal  ta(  t  ami 
.iuoBfte  ii-i'tl  at  th,.i  liiiic  pri'vcntoil  rollisiiiii.  Mr.  Rijn- 
liart  put  thorn  in  ^rootl  humor  l»v  f,'ivi!ij;  one  of  th ' 
liHifs  praycr-wlii  1  i-  :i  turn  in  the  li.uhl  "lircct i<tn, 
ihcnliv  .-liowiuu-  kiioulcil;;c  of  tlirir  rcrcmonial. 
'rhu>  amid  tiie  iiio>t  lll^■a^allt  jiolili'iu'ss  on  rithcr  sitlc. 
we  went  our  way,  loavinji  them  kindly  disjjosed,  yet 
-taring  in  con>ti  rnat ion  ll<■l■au^e  we  Im'I  passed  a 
larfTc  outpost  of  MiMicr-  ilcsi^neil  to  prevent  our 
journeying  further  towards  XagelTuk'a.  A  man 
-oon  passed  Ui?  on  the  gallop,  and  we  presumed 
lie  was  on  his  way  to  notify  his  poiiho  tliat  the 
jiiluni  or  l'"nglisliinan  (the  only  name  all  I'or- 
I'igners  are  known  ity  in  that  pa  t  of  TilH't),  had  suc- 
ceeded in  getting  beyond  the  gua  1,  who  had  prol)al)ly 
received  orders  not  to  use  any  >iolence  towards  us. 
After  having  gone  some  (li>tance  we  were  overtaken  liy 
several  of  the  men  who  rode  alongside  us,  and  eonver>ed 
l.leasaiitly  and  agieeably.  A  violent  hail-storm  driving 
in  our  faces  compelled  us  to  allow  the  hor.ses  to  stand, 
when  they  innnediately  turned  their  hacks  to  it,  shel- 
tering the  rider's  face.  Our  eoinpanioi.s  dismounted 
ami  erouelied  down  in  the  shelter  of  their  horses,  pull- 
ing their  capacious  gowns  over  their  faces,  thus  impro- 
vising a  wrap.  Crossing  a  plain  in  which  we  had  Lake 
rhomora  on  our  left  we  saw  many  camels  and  yak, 
and  elustereil  around  tlie  sheltered  nooks  of  th(!  lulls 
the  familiar  black  tents  of  the  nomads.  We  knew  we 
were  approaching  Nagch'uk'a,  an  important  district  of 
the  jirovince  of  inner  Tibet,  governed  directly  from 
Lhasa,  a  fact  which  exjilaincd  the  vigilance  that  had 


204 


WITH  THETTBETAXS 


oft'ii  I'Xciviri'tl  over  us  filler  our  coming.  A  blimling 
snowstorm  towiirds  evening  neivssitateil  our  selecting 
a  c;nii|)  ju.-l  In  Tore  wc  liad  roatlu'd  tlic  liouxs  of  Nagch*- 
uk'a  villii-r,  and  we  tciititl  m  tlic  iiiid>t  ■  ;  larj^c  cn- 
i uiiijiuiriil  on  a  Muall  pictt'  of  .-ward  Mtrroundod  by 
hummocks  of  grass.  Some  of  the  men  v.e  had  previously 
f-vvn  at  the  outpost  tent  came  around  the  fire  and  in- 
I'nrnicd  us  lliat  wc  were  (o  rmiain  tcnlcd  there,  lie- 
cause  in  the  morning  Uieir  iwn  jnnibi/.i  were  coming 
to  see  us.  Mr.  Rijnhart  replied  that  we  would  arise 
and  have  our  lnv.ikt'ast,  pack  our  loads,  and  il'  i  v  that 
time  the  jionhi)  had  not  aiTiveil  wc  would  ;-!oul\  niak'' 
our  way  to  him,  that  il  made  no  material  diirerenc" 
where  wo  met  hivi,  but  we  could  not  long  await  his 
pleasure. 


CHAPTER  XVII 


N  A  00  H  '  t:  K  '  A 

(Hiviriiimni  of  Xagcli'iik'ii — l  iKlcr  Otilfial  Surveil- 
li,iic-o— Dealing:'  With  the  Ponbo  Ch'enpo— We  Arc 
Ordeml  to  Return  to  China — Our  Decision. 

The  village  of  Nagch'uk'a  iK'side  which  we  were 

(iitiipcd  is  situated  M)ulh  of  Choinoni  Lake  in  the  Lhasa 
ilistrict  and  ((iiitains  almiit  sixty  liuusrs  built  of  niuil 
,;iid  brick,  but  most  of  its  j)eoj)le  live  in  l)lack  tents, 
[ireferring  a  nomadic  life.  The  monastery  of  Shiahden 
adjoins  the  village,  bui  the  number  of  its  priests  we 
were  unal'Ic  to  learn.  Nageiruk'a  is  governed  by  a  lama 
who  is  the  representative  of  the  Dalai  Lama  and  is 
changed  every  three  years.  Associated  with  him  is  also 
a  lay  othcial  suijposed  to  be  Chinese.  This  latter  has 
virtuallv  little  ]t()\ver  of  his  own,  evervthiiig  of  import- 
ance being  settled  according  to  the  decree  of  the  great 
dignitary  from  Lhasa.  Though  the  well-dressed  kopas 
who  had  endeavored  to  prevent  our  proceeding  on  our 
jonniey  had  exerted  tlieir  utmost  to  convince  us  of  their 
authority,  we  knew  that  as  yet  v.e  ha<l  not  met  anyone 
who  really  had  any  power  to  stop  us,  as  the  ponbo 
ch'enpo  of  Nagch'uk'a  is  a  man  of  too  high  rank  to 
travel  any  distance  from  his  home  to  meet  two  unknown 


WITH  TirE  TTBETAXS 


I  i-'tii«  \ul!i  -lull  ii  >rnall,   iiic(inspicuo\i-  ( .ir.iv.in  .i^ 
"in-.    Tlic  itrcvioii-;  <',iy*s  li.ird  travolins  lia<l  prrpiiicd 
n-  fnr  Jill  uiiiiiMinluM!  ni^'htV  rvA,  luid  the  stun  was  shod- 
I'-  u,iniii!i  nil  (lur  li'ii'.  iind  Dwr  tlic  tii--.»ck-; 
I  I'  j^r.i:--  iiiMiii  ulii,  h  liuu^  .liaiiiDiiil-  i'miii  the  >ii(ivv  iiinl 
f"<tst.  wlicii  Raliini  awakened  to  reineiiiher  tliat  we  were 
'  ':        --  I'l  "II'  ilic  /I'inl,.,  tlial  day,  or  very  soon  at 
I'ii-i-    All  cM-ilnl  ri'\  nl'  s.'IuIj  at  our  tent  door  aroii-cd 
us.  and  I  he  liov  inl'ni  iiied  ii-  that  a  hirge  niiiiilicr  nf  'I'lii- 
etans  were  erecting  a  tent  near  hy.     {'[xm  j.,rring 
lhroii^,'h  the  dnop  \vt«  saw  pitehed  lir-t  one  beautiful 
wliite  tent,  and  tlim  anoliici'.  amid  llic  ^rreatot  <oiii- 
Miotioii.    Wliilc  lair  tea  was  l)einy  boiled  ihrce  ol"  our 
traveling  companions,  or  so-callod  guards,  came  to  in- 
rorrn  us  that  their       ial  had  ridden  over  and  wa?  in 
a  nci,i;Iil)orii!,i:  lent,  and  invited  us  to  /,v///,  /v///,  /. 
slouly  vi-it  him.     At  ahout  ten  uYdoek,  mounted  on  a 
noble  chestnut  horse  riehiy  (aparisoned  witii  red  and 
gold,  and  aceoinpauicd  hy  a  large  retinue,  the  ponho 
rlt'i'iiji'i  (d'  \a.Lri  ITul/a  nxh;  frnrii  a  Mark  tent  over  to  his 
own  oilicial  onr,  wlicre  shortly  afterwards  we  were  in- 
vited to  eonie  to  see  him.    We  had  in  tlie  interim  dis- 
eus^cil  the  wisdom  ol"  my  being  present  at  the  interview, 
and  had  (iiially  dc  iilcd  that  we  wouhl  i)oth  i^o.  tn^dlier 
uith  Raliim;  aceordingly  we  donned  our  best  riotliing 
and  having  mounted  our  ponies,  rode  over  to  tiie  beauti" 
I'ul  tents. 

We  were  led  to  the  larger  of  thr  two.  a  white  one 
"■ndjroidi'red  witli  (hirk  i)lue  and  wliilr  uiih  capacious 
awning.s,  altogether  the  best  tent  I  liave  ever  stvn.  On 
our  arrival  near  the  entranef'  sev(>ral   lopn.'i  dressed 


N'/vonriK'A 


267 


iii'ativ  ill  tlark  re<l  ijuiii.  witli  nil  UxH-  tame  Imwiinl 
til  imrl  Sonii-  <,'r<x>nis  took  clmrgt'  of  our  |)oiut'!*, 
imtl  \vf  wiTi'  usluTfil  into  the  tent,  to  liiid  tlic  furni>!i- 
"I"  tlif  intcri'^r  in  ko'iiii".;  \>  itii  tlic  cMi'rinr ;  ln-iiiil  i- 
fiil  vwj:~  ami  mat-  liiunl  the  miK's  to  tlif  ilnor,  wiuli' 
t!if  I'uriliir  I  ml  was  corriplcU'ly  coxcrftl  with  very  rich 
'I'rrkish  rii<.'s;  ujton  a  <lais  several  inches  in  hri):ht, 
(    ■ti|Mi-c(l    nf    iiial-    lilli'il    with    u<M)|,    >at    the  jionh 

aii'l  ::t  lii-  li'fl  ^i'l''  'ln'  ft'oiid  chief  win 
-iilHioM'dly  a  (  Imiaiiiaii.  iail  in  this  i!<staneo  was  no*. 
The  foniv'r  was  a  handsotne  yoiui'?  luniu  ahoiit  tliirly- 
tive  years  of  ajre  with  fiiir  cut  fi'murr-,  small  hlaek 
mnii-tiH  li'-  and  ^havt■ll  head.  Ili'  wa-  dressed  in  rich 
hr.Kailfil  ('liiiicM'  >dk>.  The  ollio-  y^as  an  old  man 
with  ^'ray  hair  worn  in  a  <|ueuo,  a  large  gold  earring 
H,  II  lair  fioin  his  left  <ar.  Ilo  also  was  dressed  in  rich 
silk-,  and  uiire  a  circular  li.il. 

Tlu  v  in\ilcd  'IS  to  take  >eats  in  front  of  wiiich  were 
little  carved  fcihles,  and  a  ;»ood-looking,  intelligeni 
VMiiiiu'  /."/"'  •'Nl''ntliM!  hi-  hand,  asking  for  our  hasins 
wliicli  we  l.inu,--iit  fi'ith  frnin  dur  vns.  A-  a  marl; 
(d'  linnnr  tlu'  tea  wa>  |)nurcd  into  i  lla^ills  from  the 
same  pot  from  which  the  noiilx.  iceeivod  his.  We  pre- 
sented to  liim  a  ^atin  kiindi  wiiii  i.ii  iuiv-  uf  three  hud- 
dhas  on  it.  \vlii(i  '  accept.'.  '  .okin^' a  lilt lc  'rpri-ed 
at  niir  knowlcdiTc  o,  the  customs,  lie  told  u.-  that  no 
/II  had  ever  hoen  there  hefore,  that  he  eould  not 
permit  us  to  go  any  further  into  Tilict.  and  tliat  we  must 
return  over  the  r-amc  ronle  we  had  come  hy.  Mr.  IJijii- 
hart  told  him  he  was  not  l'Ji-li>h.  that  he  *\as  nntch, 
that  he  was  not  a  traveler  just  passing  through  the 


WITH  THK  TIUETAXS 


c-oiuitrv.  Iiiit  liiid  livfd  niiioiiti  the  'I'lbctaiis  I'oi'  yeart: 
iind  iulilcd  tliiit  \vf  would  nol  rcUini  to  China  as  he 
wi-licd  II-  t,i.    'I'lic  ih'wl'  ]n,:\r,]  j ). M'| ilcxcd.  liiit  replied 
iliiit  1k'  had  110  power  to  f.inilih  jircxi'iit  our  trtiiiii:'  on. 
hiii.  did  he  allow  us  to  iirocivd,  h.'  would  be  liflieadtd. 
Ill  tliis  way  oriental  ofHoials  endeavor  to  compel  snh- 
lui.-sion  to  tlieir  desire?,  taking  it  for  ,<:ra!itcd  that  nn 
one  wishi-  to  lie  the  eauM'  of  a  iiiair>  h..-in_^-  hi>  lilV.  Ai 
thi.>^  Mr.  Kijiihart  laughed  and  >-aid  he  was  ooiiver.-aiit 
with  their  customs,  and  that  in  their  sacred  hooks  a 
man  is  forhiiMni  to  destroy  life,  even  that  of  a  louse, 
and  remarked  how  mneli  in  unison  with  that  teachini: 
it  would  he  for  their  Dalai  Lama  to  have  him  heheaded, 
thcrehy  destroying  a  life  of  such  higli  degree  I  The 
young  chief  turned  to  his  ecmfreres  and  sai''  how  strange 
it  was  to  see  a  foreigner  so  diiferent  from  anv  jirliii'/ 
they  had  e\cr  seen  before;  we  knew  tlu'ir  customs,  spoke 
their  language,  wore  their  clotlies.  and  even  had  read 
their  sacred  literature.    He  >aid  to  us  that  did  we  go 
on.  he  woTiM  be  iv<|ijired  to  .-end  word  alvad,  and 
that  a  chier  of  greater  power  than  lie  would  inee) 
us  and  have  the  authority  to  stop  us.    We  told  him 
we  liad  no  desire  to  vi.sit  Lhasa,  that  wc  were  willing  io 
lie  blin(lfolde(I  when  wav  tlie  sacred  citv.  as  we  had  Iieeii 
iiif(irm(>d  at  Taiikar  by  oilieials  from  Lha-a.  tlial  \\v 
might  go  to  within  one  day's  journey  of  tlu'  eapnal  and 
remain  as  long  as  we  wished,  provided  we  did  not  at- 
tempt to  enter,  nor  ea-t  our  eyes  upon  the  five-domed 
golden   temple  of  the  Dalai   Lama.    Our  conferen(e 
lasted  a  long  time,  the  tea  in  our  hasins  heing  renewed 
as  politeness  demanded ;  and  when  we  rose  to  withdraw, 


XAGCH'UKA 


269 


nothing  definite  had  been  settled,  except  that  we  posi- 
tively refused  to  retrace  our  >ti'|w,  Mr.  Rijnhart  adding 
that  he  would  iH't'l'i  T  liriiiLT  in'hi'adi'd  to  returning  by 
the  route  over  w  hieli  we  luid  tome. 

Almost  immediately  on  our  return  to  our  own  tent 
!-ome  of  tlu'  k-opiis  brought  a  kliata.  a  bag  of  rice,  one 
of  Hour,  two  larirc  bricks  of  good  tea.  and  a  skin  con- 
taining four  j)ouuds  uf  butter  with  a  message  from 
their  ponho  informing  us  that  the  gifts  were  from  his 
hand;  and  that  as  soon  as  the  flocks  were  driven  in  a 
big  fat  sheep  would  al<o  be  given  us.  We  bade  the 
messengers  thank  their  chief,  and  gave  them  as  a  return 
})resent  for  the  time  being,  a  beautifully  bound  copy  of 
the  Gospels,  accompanied  by  a  khata.  That  the  book 
was  acccjiti'd  and  ju'ized  was  to  us  a  source  of  satisfac- 
tion. Oi'tcn  my  thoughts  go  back  to  tlie  jionbo  of 
.Xageh'uka  with  the  copy  of  the  (jospels  in  his  tenl, 
and  I  wonder  whether  it  has  yet  brought  its  message 
to  him,  ami  muse  on  the  influence  it  may  yet  wield 
among  the  ponhu'i^  people  Tliat  evening  \vli(>n  it  was 
growing  dusk,  a  group  of  soldiers  were  stationed  in 
front  of  our  tent  about  a  hundred  feet  from  us,  and 
shortly  afterwards  another  grou])  took  their  place  the 
same  ilistance  away  on  the  op[)osi(le  side.  The  jinubo 
was  evidently  taking  every  precaution  against  our  escap- 
ing in  the  night  again,  something  we  had  not  the  slight- 
est intention  of  attempting;  and  we  felt  thankful  that 
we  did  not  need  to  ])ut  the  iron  hobbles  on  our  ponies, 
for  they  would  not  be  stolen  from  us  that  nigiit,  as  our- 
selves and  all  we  possessed  were  being  so  thoroughly 
guarded  by  the  official's  soldiers. 


270 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


Our  toiil  \'  a>  pilched  in  a  level  place  which  wat;  lower 
than  the  surrounding  hummocks,  and  would  certainly 
be  flooded  should  a  storm  arise.    Besides,  there  being 
no  running  water  near  us,  the  following  morning, 
watched  from  the  ponbo's  tents  by  his  men,  we  packed 
our  loads,  took  down  our  tents  and  moved  to  the  bank 
oi"  a  pretty  brook  of  circling  course,  upon  whose  edge 
we  decided  to  settle  down  among  the  many  tents  already 
there.   What  a  state  of  excitement  the  men  were  in  when 
they  saw  us  preparing  to  move,  but  as  soon  as  our  in- 
tention was  plain  to  tliem  tluy  did  not  interfere.  It  was 
a  beautiful  morning.    \\'hi]e  ail  the  preparations  were 
being  madv,  and  some  of  the  goods  were  being  moved, 
I  sat  on  a  hillock  enjoying  the  warm  sunshine,  while 
before  us  stretched  green  hills  dotted  with  innumerable 
Idack  tents,  and  l)ebind  were  scattered  groups  of  gaily 
dressed  servants  of  the  Lhasa  government.    I'pon  ar- 
rival at  our  new  camping-ground,  we  pitched  both  our 
lents,  and  used  our  rugs  to  make  us  as  comfortable  as 
possilde,  expecting  to  stay  for  awhile  and  receive  com- 
p;i.!!\-.    Some  nf  the  pmilid's  men  cain(>  over  to  inform 
us  that  their  chief  was  glad  we  had  moved  our  tent  to 
a  good  place,  as  where  wc  had  been  was  low  and  unpleas- 
ant,  but  that  wo  were  not  to  move  again  nnfil  we  started 
for  China.    This,  thiy  said,  wa>  the  expressed  wish 
and  command  of  the  chief.    Evidently  the  tent  dwellers 
in  that  vicinity  had  also  received  their  instructions  not 
to  have  any  communication  with  us.  l)ecauso,  contrary 
to  our  exjierienee  in  other  places,  not  a  single  man  or 
woman  fnun  any  e'"  the  black  tents  came  to  b.irter  or 
chat  with  us ;  only  the  attaches  of  the  government  vis- 


NAGCHUKA 


271 


itcd  us  and  we  realized  that  we  were  completely  ostra- 
i-iscd.    Feeling  that  if  we  remained  there,  or  pursued 

our  journov  further  toward  the  south,  we  would  bo  simi- 
larly treated,  and  as  the  object  of  our  going  had  been 
to  come  into  contact  with  the  people,  to  study  their 
needs  and  not  merely  to  travel,  we  feared  it  would  be 
'"nistratod  by  the  orders  of  the  chiefs.  Had  we  considered 
it  l)est  we  miglit  have  pll^hed  <in  furtlier  for  we  liad 
abundance  of  food,  but  the  strain  of  always  being 
guarded  by  soldiers  and  of  heing  met  by  petty  officials 
Avho  endeavored  to  turn  us  back,  would  neee-.-ai  ily  prove 
trying.  Thu?:  our  desire  to  mingle  freely  with  the 
jieople  being  unattainable,  we  decided  cither  to  winter 
in  Xagch'uk'a  could  we  gain  permission,  or  yield  to  the 
poiiho's  desire  for  us  to  return  towards  China  and  win- 
ter some  place  on  the  road.  Having  decided  in  tliis 
manner,  when  next  we  visited  tlic  ponho,  we  were  in- 
clined to  yield,  but  did  not  find  him  so  polite  as  on 
our  previous  visit,  though  perhaps  it  \va-  owing  to  our 
imagination.  Our  tea  was  now  poured  from  a  different 
tea-pot  from  that  out  of  which  his  was  ponrr'd,  ami  Mr. 
Rijnhart  remembered  the  custom  of  the  lamas,  praying 
a  person  to  death  with  the  aid  of  aconite,  and  conse- 
(|nently  drank  little.  .Ml  our  efforts  to  obtain  permis- 
sion to  remain  during  the  winter  in  that  locality  were 
in  vain,  but  the  chief  agreed  to  our  following  the  Ja- 
1am  (tea  road)  towards  Ta-chien-lu,  though  when  we 
suggested  fre-li  linrsi'<  being  given  us  for  our  tired  <iih'-, 
he  said  yak  were  best  to  use  on  that  road.  We  left  for 
our  own  tent  again  without  having  eome  to  any  definite 
arrangement.   The  chief  even  refused  to  allow  Rahim, 


272 


WITH  THE  TIBETAN'S 


who  \v;if^  a  Tibetan,  to  towards  l.adak  lo  homo, 
but  imhwd  tlial  we  must  all  tliiuo  n  turn  togelhor.  On 
our  return  to  our  tent  we  had  u  conference  and  decided 
that  we  would  not  go  again  to  sec  the  pouho,  but  that  wc; 
wouhl  just  stay  indefinitely  until  he  came  to  us,  and 
arranged  everything  to  suit  our  desires  and  not  his  own. 
In  the  meantime  we  and  our  horses  woulti  enjoy  a  re- 
freshing rest. 

The  l-ivi-ijrli .  or  sceretary  of  tlie  pniiho,  and  a  Tibet- 
anized  Chinaman  came  over  the  following  day  to  ask 
us  upon  what  condition  we  would  journey  towards  Ta- 
chien-lu.  We  replied  that  wo  were  to  be  provided 
with  three  guides  who  knew  the  road,  our  tired  liorses 
were  to  ho  exchanged  for  fresh  ones,  and  we  were  lo 
be  given  two  extra  ones,  as  we  were  setting  out  on  a  jour- 
aey  of  several  months  which  our  own  ponies  would  not 
stand  unless  we  gave  them  a  long  rest.  The  result  of 
oiir  interview  was  that  the  next  day  four  t)f  our  horses 
were  traded  and  we  received  two  extra  ones,  after  which 
we  were  invited  again  to  the  chiefs  tent.  During  the 
conversation  lie  informed  us  that  he  knew  there  were 
several  countries,  and  telling  them  off  on  his 

lingers  he  gave  us  the  extent  of  his  knowledge  of  the 
geography  of  the  outside  world,  composed,  he  said,  of 
the  following  countries:  England,  London,  Paris, 
France,  I*  'ly  and  Tien-clui-kiao,  the  latter  being  the 
Chinese  name  for  the  Roman  Catholic  religion!  This 
from  a  lama  and  me  of  the  highest  officials  in  the  land, 
is  another  sample  of  the  deep  and  superior  knowledge 
with  which  western  Tlieosophists  believe  the  lamas  to 
be  endowed.   How  ignorant  must  the  mass  of  the  popu- 


XAdCHTKA 


273 


1. II  urn  lir  V.  Iio  have  iicvor  hail  t  lic  odticatioiial  privileges 
of  their  exalted  tcaeher?,  and  how  much  in  need  of  the 
etiueatini!  him]  kiu)\vlo(li:('  <hat  j^o  hand  in  hand  with 
|!k'  i^iHpcl  (if  Chri-t  !  While  \vi-  wTe  >iiiipl\in^'  tln' 
M'tretary  <lala  I'Dr  his  report  to  Lhasa  of  our  name, 
country,  ete.,  several  men  came  into  the  tent,  eaeli  ear- 
ryinjr  one  of  the  followinfr:  a  ba<'  of  rice,  one  of  .  ur, 
a  very  lar^'c  t)ag  of  fsinnhfi.  a  hriik  of  tea.  au'i  several 
jtouiuls  nf  lintter,  and  si  t  ihrm  dowi;  lirforc  u  'Plie 
chief  tlieii  luhl  us  these  were  for  our  use  on  tlic  journey, 
a(idin<;  that  two  fat  sheep  would  be  brought  us  in  the 
evening.  We  thanked  him,  hul  liaviiig  all  the  food  we 
i-oiild  possibly  require  we  accepti'd  only  llie  sheep  and 
Inilter.  so  he  ad<le<l  another  lanin  of  tlx'  latte!.  Shortly 
afterwards  we  arose  to  go,  realizing  that  wc  had  passed 
a  '  •••rv  [jli'asant  time  with  those  chiefs,  who  really  had 
been  as  kind  to  us  as  their  superi  ir  rt  T>basa  would 
allow  them  to  be,  oidy  being  eompelled  to  be  aj.par- 
ently  disagreeable  in  refusing  us  permission  to  remain 

Wc  had  told  the  ji'  i/ho  that  v  would  leave  the  day 
following,  if  our  guii.  s  were  ready,  sc  we  reckoned  up 
with  Eahim  that  eveviing.  foi  according  to  agreement, 
he  "vas  to  go  on  to  L;  'ak  if  we  wore  compelled  to  re- 
lurn  to  Cliiiia.  Wc  ii^ive  him  10. f!."  ounces  of  silver. 
Taukar  weight,  a  carbine  and  cartridges,  a  horse  with 
a  saddle,  and  as  much  food  as  he  wanted.  Ilis  •  Ian 
was  to  travel  with  us  the  first  day,  then  branch  off 
towards  Sapo,  and  from  there  to  TrashiTunpo ;  for  the 
chief  aliM.iluU'iv  refused  to  allow  him  to  remain  in 
Nageh"uk'a  alter  wc  were  gone,  or  to  go  from  tuere 


274  WITH  TnKTIRFyPAXS 

(owar.ls  liis  liotiic  liut  lu'  woiilil  iillnw  liiiii  \<  ,^  nii  with 
lis  lialf  a  moiithV  jouiiu-y  to  Tashi  Goraba,  then  return 
to  Nagciruk'a  with  the  guides,  and  proceed  to  Ladak 
if  he  wished.  As  Kahim  considered  a  ninntli's  extra 
traveling  as  nnncccssarv  as  ii  was  undesirable,  he  pre- 
iViTcd  adhering  to  hii  owu  plan. 


CHAPTKH  XVII r 


ON  THE  CABAVAX  ROAD 

The  Start  from  Xafrrh'uk'a  With  Xew  Guides— Fare- 
well to  Our  Last  iM  iciid — Hahim  Leaves  for  liadak — 
I'nrdiiii:  ilir  Sliak  Cliu  Torrent — Heading  the  Gospels 
— A  Day  of  Mfiiiorits. 

'i'licrc  ■■ivv  three  LH'eat  lii>rli\va_\>  leadiiiLr  I'rom  XaiT'  li'- 
iik"a  to  China,  the  tir.-t  U-ing  the  Vltun<j-lain.  ur  long 
road,  tlirough  the  Ts'aidam  to  Tankar,  which  was  form- 
erly traversed  by  the  tribute  oii  its  way  to  Pekin.  This 
is  the  road  we  followed.  In  times  past  there  wa-  an- 
other roa(i  through  tlie  Tsaidai..  to  Tankar  calli-d  the 
oriental  road,  the  one  that  Hue  and  Gabet  pursued. 
'I'he  -1  (Olid  important  highway  r-ns  to  Jyekundo  and 
lhron.;h  the  Horba  and  Derge  provinces  on  to  Ta-cliien- 
lii,  wliere  it  is  known  by  the  name  of  the  I'ri-lu,  or 
northern  road.  The  third  highway  is  the  one  through 
("h'amdo  and  Batang  to  Ta-ehien-lu,  called  ^iie  tea  road, 
tliough  often  caravans  from  i.liasi  to  China  do  not  touch 
Xagcli'uk'a,  but  go  directly  to  Ciramdo.  This  is  ilie 
road  taken  now  by  the  tribute  from  Lliasa  and  also 
from  Xepaul.  There  are  two  other  roads  to  Jyekundo, 
and  another  going  south  of  Cli'amdo.  but  joining  with 
the  third  of  thu  above  nieutioned  highways  at  Ichu. 


27G  WITH  THE  TIBETANS 

On  aofounl  of  its  more  direct  route  \vi-  h  i.l  cxpoctod  to 
po  touiinl.-  'rii-«'liicn-hi  nhm-  thi>  third  ro;!il.  hut  thc^ 
'',,„,il>o  nith'T  iU-wrA  11-  to  pui-ii.'  our  jouniry  l)y  way  of 
.Ivfkun.lo,  i.iul       IVlt  i:  nuuK>  little  difference  to  us 
which  highway  we  followed,  as  our  plan  was  to  winter 
some  place  cil  route.    Having  in>istf.l  upon  h.'in-  im.- 
vided  with  three  rcliahh'  -uid.'s.  and  haviiiy  ij.vn  prom- 
ised them,  we  did  not  prcpaiv  to  depart  until  they  had 
made  their  appearance.    About  eleven  o'clock  on  the 
morning  of  Septendn^r  C  ihcy  came,  mounted  on  three 
small  m'a.ri'ui  ponies,  each  leading  anoth.^r  pony  upon 
which  \va>  a  pac  k  saddle  willi  I'nod  an.l  potB.  They 
also  had  two  slurp  which  with  ours  would  provide  us 
with  fresh  meat  for  some  time.    In  the  presence  of  a 
large  interested  cruwd  of  spectators.  .Nyerpa.  the  ponbo's 
Mi'ward,  t(dd  the  llucc  guidi's  what  was  expected  of 
them,  thai  they  were  to  take  us  to  the  lamasery  of 
Tashi  (iomba  (or  as  they  called  it,  Tashi  la  bu  tiomba) 
ul:ere  they  were,  if  possihie.  tn  ol)taia  permission  from 
the  for  us  to  ivmain  all  winter,  whence  they 

themselves  were  to  return  to  their  homes.  Could  they 
not  procure  the  desired  permission,  they  were  to  pro- 
eeed  to  Jyekun<l.)  with  us.  and  upon  arrival  there,  we 
would  give  tlieni  food  for  ilie  return  journey  and  a  pres- 
ent or"m..ney  if  tiu'V  served  us  well.  When  all  was 
understood  and  agreed  to,  Nyerpa  introduced  our  nu  n 
to  us,  and  told  us  the  oldest  of  the  three  wa-  a  maiuh'i. 
that  he  wa^  the  leader,  hence  responsible  for  the  other 
two.  Immediately  every  one  began  to  help  us  i)rei)are 
for  departure,  so  we  had  no  opportunity  to  do  more  than 
take  a  hastv  glance  at  our  guides,  but  noticed  they 


ON  TIIK  CARAVAN  KOAI) 


27T 


were  alert  .iiid  nuick  in  tlieir  movements.  Tlie  chief 
t  ame  out  to  say  good-ljye,  and  watched  our  departure  lu 
a  blinding  snow-stonn  until  we  wore  beyond  his  ken. 

Our  caravan  now  consisted  of  ourselves  well  mounted 
on  fresh  {)oiiies,  our  three  guides,  our  seven  loadeil  ani- 
mal.- and  two  sheep,  while  Rahini  rode  along  to  avoid 
any  one's  suspicion  that  he  intended  to  do  other  than  to 
accompany  us  toward  China.  Our  route  lay  firjit 
e:i-t  i'ur  i'onr  hours  and  a  half,  then  north  across 
the  Tzar  I'hu,  a  small  .-treaui  flowing  southward, 
passing  in  its  course  Shia!)den  Gomlia.  We  camped 
some  distance  east  from  Choraora  Lake,  in  a  quiet 
plain,  scattered  over  which  were  tents  and  tn 
some  of  thorn  one  of  our  men  betook  hiniM  if  for  fuel. 

The  liiree  guides  were  dressed  in  sheepskin,  and  had 
extra  pulu  gowns  for  use  in  storms  to  protect  them- 
selves from  ruiu  and  hail.  The  mamha  was  about  forty 
vears  of  age,  a  thiii,  short,  wiry  man  with  a  wizened  fari> 
wearing  a  subdued  expression ;  his  hair  was  hanging 
about  his  shoulders,  a  brass  case  full  of  medicines  across 
his  bosom,  and  a  bell  at  liis  back.  He  wore  a  broad- 
brimmed  hai  with  a  peaked  crown,  made  of  a  light 
frame-work  covered  with  cloth,  and  tied  under  the  chin 
with  narrow  strips  of  red  cotton.  He  was  a  man  of  re- 
markable energy,  as  lively  as  a  liitle  boy,  and  was  almost 
incessantly  mnml)ling  prayers  and  turning  his  prayer- 
wheel  as  he  rode  aloiig.  while  he  watched  the  earth  for 
peculiar  stones  to  make  medicines  of,  asking  us  to  give 
him  hints  on  points  of  medical  science  with  which  he 
was  not  conversant.  The  ot]i(>r  jrnides  were  younger, 
we  judged  about  twenty  years  of  :ige ;  one  of  them  was 


278  WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


poor,  l)iit  so  willing'  to  lit'lp  to  work  and  so  agreeable  in 
t  vcrv  way,  even  wlit'ii  working  liard  looking  so  pleasant, 

tluit  wo  cillril  Iiitii  till'  •■  nice  Imh."  TIic  .-cccikI  oik' 
v.;i-  better  iliv.-sed.  Iiiit  mi  iiiiu  iiliii;,'  to  do  anvtliiiig  when 
it  eould  !»e  avoided  lliat  we  called  him     tlie  lazy  one." 

the  passing  dayjj  made  us  more  eognizant  of  his  ([ual- 
ities  even  this  apjiellat ion.  we  ilmimlit.  \.-a>  too  piod  for 
him.  for  in  addition  to  heini:  la/y  lie  wa-  the  rdthie>t  of 
the  llltliy  in  Ids  actions  atid  ahmit  Ids  food,  even  put- 
ting sausage  meat  iido  the  casings  when  the  latter  had 
lieen  simply  turned  but  not  waslied.  All  the  guiilcs 
were  armed  with  guns  and  swords.  There  was  a  (pnet 
ai)out  our  hearts  that  evening,  which  coidd  only  be 
explained  bv  tlie  faet  that  it  was  the  last  day  of  Rahim's 
eon\pany  and  sorvici',  hut  wo  overcame  the  tondoncy  to 
be  sad.  and  discusst d  our  journey  together.  Hahini  im- 
pressed upon  our  three  guides  how  advantageous  it  woidd 
prove  to  them  if  they  put  forth  every  effort  to  help 
us  on  the  road,  and  retold  his  desire  to  reach  his  fnr- 
awav  homo  without  any  iinn(M'os^ary  wandering?;  henro 
liis  dot  .  lination  to  cut  across  country  and  reach  Shi- 
^-'atszo. 

The  following  morning  we  arose  early,  and  after 

tea  was  partaken  of  we  prepared  o\irs(>lvos  as  well 
as  w.'  could  for  anolhor  heart-wrench.  Words  seemed 
powerless  to  express  our  feelings.  We  could  but  gra^l) 
the  hand  of  the  last  friend  we  had  in  the  interior  of 
the  great  lone  land.  li>ten  to  his  good-hyo  and  with 
tear  dimmed  eves  watch  liim  retire  from  us,  polite  to 
the  last,  making  his  salaams  as  he  led  his  horse  loaded 
with  bedding,  clothing,  food,  a  i)ot  and  a  Tibetan  bel- 


ON  THE  C  ARAVAN  ROAD 


279 


Itiws,  invay  towards  the  Chomorn  Tinkc,  nrountl  which 

ilu.iy-  l<ri'|iiiii;'  it  lM>t\vi'i'n  hini- 


In  IlilM' 


■If 


a>iil 


\;i::iiriir,'ii. 


t! 


icll    IIKIkf   III-  WAV   UcVn  — 


Siipo.  Tlicre  lie  iiupcd  to  reiiiaiii  unlit  lie  miiuhI  coiii- 
I)aii\  with  which  to  jouriioy  to  Shifintszc.  lie  had  ninny 
misfrivinjjp  that  lie  niiaht  hi'  ninnlrml  fi.r  his  motii'y, 
liiit  on  the  wlioli'  \va-  ( lici'rfiil  ami  hniict'iil.  tliouL'h 
lonely.  An<l  conlil  he  he  inoic  lonely  than  wo,  as  wo 
roalizod  tliat  another  link  which  bound  us  to  the  swoot 
past  nt  Tankar  was  to  he  hrokon?  Our  two  Thincssp 
had  lon.t;-  -incr  ilr-rrted  us,  and  now  we  were  to  he  s(>pn- 
latt'd  from  our  faitlit'ul  Rahim  who,  from  the  day  lie 
reached  our  northern  home,  had  never  ceased  to  in<jra- 
liato  himself  into  our  hearts.  The  hoy  whoso  nature 
hail  heen  nu'llnwcd  hy  the  love  of  our  dear  'ittle  Charlie, 
the  lioy  who  had  accompanied  us  amid  d.sii'.'ers  innu- 
merahle  through  the  T.-"aid.im  desert,  across  treacher- 
ous marshes  and  rivers,  and  over  lalM>rions  passes,  and 
wlio  had  helped  to  ,-liare  r)Mr  sorrow  around  the  lone  lit- 
tle frravp  north  of  tlie  r>anu-  La  mountains,  and  had 
mingled  his  liitter  tears  with  our> — the  last  friend  we 
had,  it  was  hard  to  see  him  go.  Trusty  T?ahim,  with  thy 
dark  lione,-t  face  and  flashing  eyes,  among  all  the  follow- 
i-v<  of  the  Prophet  thou  Welt  to  US  the  movt  precious 
jewel  I  God  grant  the  T  ruth  may  ri[)e!i  in  thy  heart, 
that  tnou  m.iyest  yet  ho  numhered  among  the  disciples 
111'  tlie  Christ.  The  last  sight  we  caught  of  him  was  a- 
he  di>a|ipeared  around  a  little  hilhtek  waving  his  hand. 
I)id  he  ever  succeed  in  crossing  Tibet  and  reaching  his 
home  in  far-away  Ladak?  I  do  not  know;  but  I  have 
fondly  believed  he  did,  and  have  pictured  to  myself  his 


( 


WITH  Til  KTIl'.i;  TANS 


joyful  rin't'tinii  oiuc  mnri<  wiih  liif*  friemls  who  had 
loiij^  ."imr  mmiriUMl  liini  as  dfiul. 

Hastily  \v»'  ini  iiiUt  i|  to  (it'imrl  in  an  opposite  ilirec- 
tion.  with  nothing  human  lo  <()iiirnit  us — only  our  dog 
Top-',  ail'!  three  Imf-.-  remained  to  us  of  all  tlio  caravan 
that  left  Tankar.  Wo  wvul  <>n  into  a  .strange  country 
with  straiiK''  fifling  that  our  lives  were  in  the 

Father's  luuuU.  whose  work  we  had  come  do,  and 
willing  tluit  He  should  dispose  of  us  according  to  llin 
will. 

We  met  iiiiiuensi'  laravans  of  yak  with  loadg  of  tea 
from  .lyt'kundo,  as  many  as  I/jOO  and  2,<>0((  yak  in 
each  caravan,  with  the  lucn  hanls  well  tlrcssctl  and  well- 
mounted,  am!  drivers  mmuc  of  whom  vere  women  and 
girls.  We  i)asscd  an  encampment  of  traders  on  their 
way  to  Lhasa,  at  the  foot  of  Karma  Kumhum,  a  lar^re 
mountain;  tlie  hills  around  were  eovereil  with  ^adllied 
yak  all  Idai  k,  aliout  two  thousand  of  them,  while  on 
tlie  pretty  plain  was  a  village  of  hirge  white  tents,  or 
more  ])roperly,  of  awnings  whicli  were  spread  out  over 
the  tea.  We  threaded  our  way  tlirou;,di  the  encamp- 
ment while  llie  native^  in  their  picturcMiue  garhs  of 
piilti,  and  varied  headdresses,  held  the  large  dogs  in 
cheek,  or  drove  our  horses  from  among  tncirs;  then  we 
climbed  a  steep,  stony  pass  over  the  afore-Mentioned 
iiiounlains.  The  usual  storm  witli  vivid  lightnii-  ;  a  id 
hail  swept  jiast  that  day,  and  while  we  stood  during  t.ie 
severest  part,  our  "  nice  hoy,"  his  horse  and  si.cep  all 
rolled  together  on  tlic  ground,  and  the  hairin-is  in  my 
hair  stuiifr  niv  head.  We  e\jH>cted  to  see  the  Im;  miahK- 
I,;  ri>e.  believing  he  had  been  killed  by  liglituiiig.  but 


OS  Tin:  (  AKAVAN'  ROAD  2Sl 


prcsciillv  he  nixl  ammiil.-  won-  rcstort'd  to  llieir 
iioiiiiiil  po.-iliDii  ami  iiiiMii  a.-kiiii;  iiiiii  what  h.i  1  liaj»- 
pi'netl,  he  said  hi»  horse  had  hvan  fri«htciuul  and  had 
fallen.  On  (•um|iiii{:  Ilia'  rvi  iiins:  <>ii"  of  our  <^n'\i\v>  im 
till'  wav  to  some  tent-  i'ni  I'lifl  .-aw  ci.^lit  ro!il>fi>  lu-avily 
arii.td,  and  wa.-  wanifd  agaiii.-t  liu'iii  hy  the  nomads  in 
llio  tent,  'o  we  put  hohhles  on  our  horses  that  night, 
iiiit  we  wore  not  disturbed. 

SiptciulMr  ninth  pn'-^mt-;  some  of  the  nio-*  vivid 
ri'niinisteni  is  of  tliu  I  wo  wci  k.-'  journi'V  witli  tliose 
j-uidis,  and  on  account  of  their  stupidity  at  fording 
rivers  is  imiiiialc  ly      o,  iated  with  tiu'  rohltcr  disaster 
a  few  dav>  arti-rw.inl-.     It  was  a  hrautiful  day.  the 
suu  hriglit  and  warm  pciping  ovit  the  lulls  into  the 
valley  alonj;  which  we  were  traveling,  hanging  drops  of 
silver  on  the  grass.    Pursuing  our  way  w.-  naclifd 
the  Shak  Chii  at  its  conlliifncr  with  the  Dani^  Clni.  llu- 
I'oriiU'r  ^niall,  hut  the  latter  tlowing  <iuict  and  deep,  in- 
dicating a  diiricult  ford.    The  guides  looked  across 
and,  judging  from  the  little  i)athways  on  the  opjiosite 
>iilc,  tonciudcd  that  sonictinic-  \hi   two  >trcams  w.'re 
forded  s(|iarately.    To  do  so  now.  iU)wc\er,  was  im- 
praetieahle,  so  we  followed  down  the  Dang  Chu  which 
b(-iled  and  foamed  in  a  narrow  gorge  seemingly  an-ry 
at  lieing  thus  eonfiiud  In  the  nK-ks,  until  our  path  ah)iig 
its  edge  heeame  ditru  nil  and  linally,  for  the  horses,  iui- 
pa.-sable  on  account  of  the  rocks  that  stood  in  our 
way.    Ordinarily  there  would  have  been  a  passage  be- 
tween the  ro(k>  and  the  river,  h'.it  the  latter  being 
mucli  swolUii  liad  exteiehd  its  waters  right  up  to  the 
rock?.    The  iiKimiiii  said  we  mu>t  turn  back  and  cross 


282 


WTTII  THE  TIBETANS 


the  two  river-  ni  lia/.anis,  hut  Mr.  Rijiihart  not  fa- 
voring this  [impMsil,  crept  over  tlie  rocks  to  see  what 
vas  heyond,  and  returned  to  say  thai  \vr  wefe  'in  the 
prnjHT  trail  that  the  river  wa-  unnsuallv  hiuh  and  that 
>ince  tlie  liorses  eouhl  not  seide  liie  roeks.  they  wouhl 
have  to  be  driven  into  the  water  and  made  to  swim 
around  to  reach  level  gr.uiinl  on  the  other  si(h-.  I'ee]- 
ing  it  was  somewlial  ri>ky  to  tru.M  our  riding  and 
h)aded  animals  in  the  boiling  torrent,  .Mr.  llijnhart 
made  an  experiment  witli  his  own  horse.  Tying  a  long 
rope  to  {he  horse,  he  retained  oiu'  end  of  it  himself  and 
erawled  again  over  the  roek>  a.^  the  horse  mad,-  il-^  wav 
through  the  seelhitig  water-,  prepared  to  pull  the  ani- 
j.ial  a>hore  should  it  be  .swept  off  its  feet.  The  ex- 
jteriment  was  successful,  both  landing  on  the  other  side 
of  the  roeks  in  .-afety. 

Mr.  lli.jnhart  came  hack  to  announce  the  resu;!, 
;ind  the  dillicult  place  was  .soon  passed  by  all, 
though  the  river  was  not  as  yet  crossed;  but  we 
soon  reached  a  >pot  wliere  this  was  neccs-ary  and 
where  apparently  earavau-  were  accustomed  to  ford. 
The  iiKiiuha  and  the  two  guides  said  it  was  impossible 
10  cross  a  large  river  where  the  waters  were  confined 
in  so  small  a  spare,  \>\n  there  wa<  no  way  ol"  returning 
or  going  forward.  He  -at  >till  on  the  hor^e■^  back  to 
tell  ovi'r  his  heads  to  (hvin,'  whether  we  would  cross 
in  safety  or  not,  and  in  the  meantime  wc  drove  our 
ponies  in,  while  hi.-  hor-e,  being  evidi^ntly  of  the  same 
inii'.d  .IS  it-  rider,  harely  stenpeil  into  the  water  and 
tlien  stood  still.  My  horse  took  his  cue  fioiu  the  maiii- 
going  onlv  a  few  steps  from  the  bank  and  then 


\ 


f 


ox  THH  CARAV  AN  ROAD  283 

rffusin-;  to  move  farllior,  until  Mr.  Rijnhart,  having 

reached  tlie  opposiic  Ijanli  with  our  loaded  animal-, 
eanie  back  for  tiic  l)rai:g'm,Lr  our  Iwo  >hecp  beliiiid 
us,  while  the  iiuunba  dragged  his,  we  urged  on  the 
horses,  which,  striking  out  into  the  current,  had  to 
swim  hard  to  keep  I'nim  being  swept  down.  Tlii-  was 
.niiong  the  nm-t  ditlicuU  rivers  we  iiad  forded,  ami 
glad  were  we  when  all  were  ^al'ely  ■'  -mss.  While  drink- 
ing tea,  and  attempting  to  dry  our  clothing,  we  were 
amazed  and  disgusted  to  see  two  of  our  loaded  horsed 
across  the  river  (piietly  grazing,  in  a  moment  wlieii 
we  were  not  watching  them,  the  perverse  creature.^  had 
reerossed  the  river,  and  we  happened  to  look  up  in  time 
to  notice  that  two  others  were  just  about  to  follow 
iheir  I'xamjile.  ^Ir.  Rijiibart  had  to  ford  the  boiling 
torrent  again  to  bring  tliem  i)ack.  It  will  scarcely  i)e 
wondered  a:,  that  ue  soon  began  to  associate  rivers  with 
disasters,  and  contemplated  the  crossing  of  them  with 
little  pleasure,  seeing  that  our  giiido.  as  they  them- 
selves confesH' :',  were  unaceu-tonied  to  Ihem,  living  as 
they  did  in  a  plaec  near  wliicli  ll-  ■  were  no  streams  of 
any  size,  and  never  having  forded  rivers  where  the 
horses  had  to  swim. 

Ik'suining  the  jdiirney  we  cro-^ed  a  higli  moun- 
tain, the  Shalop  (.  Iiercho,  and  camped  on  the  de- 
scent Avliere  we  had  the  view  of  a  snowrange,  the 
Sokdec.  On  the  eleventh  we  ascended  another  moun- 
lain  biit  kept  on  climbing  to  cnws  a  higher  one 
still,  the  Wang-ma-la,  v. ith  snow  peaks  on  eithc-  Hank, 
encountering  during  the  ascent  a  severe  snowstorm 
through  which  nothing  was  \  isible,  and  iu  which  we  had 


2^4 


WITH  TlIK  TIRETANS 


tlic  ^M-rnto-t  (!iili<'ul;y  not  to  lose  one  annihcr.  We 
^li(u-tly  iirtenviinls  cn^si'd  the  I'oii  Clni.  ii  river  wortliy 
of  notice  on  our  maps  (for  I  observe  it  is  not  marked 
on  tliat  of  the  Royal  Ceoprnphical  Sm  it  ty)  and  vn- 
(■anipcd  near  a  caravan  fmni  wliicli  •  lit  horses  had 
heen  stolen  (hirin_^  the  uijiiit.  Here  we  eouhl  lina  no 
niel  to  hoil  tea  either  in  the  eveninfr  or  mornin<r.  On 
the  twelfth  we  reached  a  Inr^'i'  irilmlarv  of  the  Sok 
Chn.  whicli  we  cro-sei!.  and  then  followed  iiji  the  main 
river  which  was  on  our  ri,Li;ht,  nieetinj;  i)arts  o[  a  cara- 
van of  yak  upon  arrival  at  the  regular  ford.  As  a  large 
portion  of  the  caravan  proceeded  at  once  .  ford 
this  a])parently  large  river,  we  >at  down  to  wat'l;  them. 
'The  foremost  yak  stood  on  the  river"s  edge  until  the 
whole  numl)er  came  rushing  down  the  incline  to  the 
hank,  crowding  and  crashing  their  loads  together.  The 
men  siiouted  and  threw  stones,  some  large  dogs  took  to 
the  water,  and  the  first  yak  plunged  awkwardlv  into  the 
stream,  the  others  foUoving.  When  they  had  passed 
the  deepest  part  of  the  river  they  stood  still,  lotting  the 
cool  water  lave  tlieir  sides  heated  with  the  day's  march, 
not  knowing  or  caring  if  tlnar  precious  harden  of  tea 
did  get  wet,  or  of  greater  moment  still,  if  they  kej)! 
their  companions  l)ehind  plunging  in  deep  water'',  en- 
deavoring to  reach  a  conifortahle  standing-place  where 
th(V  too  might  enjoy  the  cool  sti'cam.  and  avoid  the 
stones  (d"  the  drivers.  How  thankful  we  were  that  we 
had  none  of  these  stupid,  perverse  animals  in  our  cara- 
van, .iii-l  w'lcn  they  should  be  (jiiick  they  lazily  >taiid 
>till.  and  where  caufion  i-  expedient  ih.ey  pnsh  and 
crowd  over  large  boulders  and  througii  narrow  places, 


ox  THK  TAHAVAX  ROAD 


li  line  trviii;,'  to  oci  upv  the  iiiciitical  pliuc  for  wliu  li 
aiiotlicr  is  aimiiijr,  all  nisliing  promiscuously  with  their 
loads,  threatening  to  smasli  to  pieces  everything  break- 
ahle.  Th(>  ford  was  ^^railually  f nnd  for  us,  the  last  yak 
eiirryin^  over  the  drivers  wiio  had  patieiiliy  stood  shout- 
ing and  throwing  stones,  and  we  were  ready  to  cross, 
having  first  taken  off  our  boots  and  stockings  that  they 
might  be  kept  dry.  Holding  our  feet  higii  up  to  the 
saddle,  we  crossed  in  safety,  and  none  too  soon,  for  it 
began  to  snow,  and  we  e  ;lil  barely  lind  the  road.  l''ur- 
ther  on,  the  caravans  we  met  at  intervals  left  the  trail 
very  distinct,  and  seeing  l)laek  tents  to  our  left  we 
eanipei]  near  them,  a  sliort  di-tnii'-e  from  the  Sok  Chu, 
and  .■'Ueeeeded  in  procuring  milk,  sIid  and  fuel. 

L  had  been  almost  unfit  for  traveling  for  several  days; 
so,  althonirh  our  guides  had  (>mphat icaily  refused  to 
r(>>t.  we  hailed  at  tliat  beautiful  place.  'riu>  snow  was 
deep  the  next  morning,  and  we  could  m'c  the  women  and 
children  come  out  to  look  after  the  flocks  and  herds. 
Having  only  boots  and  gowns  on,  and  with  the 
soles  almost  worn  off  the  former.  tli"y  were  shiv- 
ering with  the  cold.  if  they  could  be  taught  to 
]irepare  the  wool  and  knit  comfortable  garments 
for  winter  wear,  how  much  easier  life  would  be 
for  them,  for  they  must  sulfer  severely  in  the  win- 
ter months  at  altitudes  wliere  tliere  is  so  much  snow 
and  intense  cold.  This.  1  believe  after  careful  study, 
is  responsible  in  a  large  measure  for  the  small  families, 
for  many  children,  not  being  able  to  withstand  the 
severity  of  the  weather,  succumb. 

Our  ne.\t  camping-place  was  on  the  banks  of  the 


28r.  WITH  THE  TIBETANS 

Tenji-njiii  river,  near.  thou;,'h  not  within  sight  of,  the 
Teng-nga  (Jomba.    From  the  latter  there  were  several 
lamas  Tt  the  tents  near  \vhi(h  we  were  camped.  The 
l„M>i,le  were  very  kind  to  Us  there,  bringing  us  milk,  etc., 
warning  u^  also  <>[  r(.!)l)ers  on  our  next  few  <iays"  jour- 
ney.  They  aece]>te(l  with  alacrity  some  (iospels  we  gave 
llieni.  Mll'ii!-  ar.Miinl   iva.liii,-   ihrni  witli  the  inniiili'i 
iin.l  Mr.  iJi.inliart.     A  nun  willi  iier  shaven  licad  aiui 
phiin  garl)  nHnu>  many  of  the  ornaments  the  Tilietan 
women  are  so  lavish  of,  took  a  copy  of  the  (;o>pels. 
hut  could  not  read  a  word.    Our  innmbii  doi  tored  a 
Mian  tliere  and  our  guide's  Kd't  one  of  their  shr.  ]..  so 
that  they  niiglit  liave  meat  for  their  return  journey. 
Brigands  must  be  very  numerous  just  there,  because 
nil  tlie  following  day  we  heard  of  lifty  of  them  having 
kilird  M'veral  iiii'ii  and  driven  olV  their  yak  wuli  loads; 
moreover  the  tea  mereliaiil>  we  met  and  camped  near, 
numbered  over  lifty  in  the  one  caravan,  such  a  large 
companv  indicating  that  there  are  dangers  of  attack 
on  the 'r.Kid.    Aft»'r  l-ollowing  the  Ta-o  i'liu  through 
an  immen>e  plain,  wc  camped  mi  Septeml)cr  fifteenth 
in  a  desertcl  tenting-place.  the  remains  of  the  stone 
an.l  clav  ranges  all  about  telling  us  that  the  nomadi.- 
people  favoreil  the  green  sward  near  ih.e  lit''-  stream. 
f,,r  their  sheep  and  cattle.    They  wen-  evidi  ■■ither 
away  in  the  hills  on  account  of  r^  ■    ■-,  or,  i        e  the 
winter  was  approaching,  tli.y  wciv  >eekin,       .c  ;^iiel- 
tercd  spot>  for  their  hom<'^.    How  wl((Uiie  was  tlu'  op- 
portunitv  to  iv>l  <m  that  au^pieiou.-  day,  September 
lificenth.  for  it  was  th.  fourth  annivci.-ary  of  our  mar- 
ria<-e.    We  had  no  couJ'ortable  parlors  into  which  we 


ON  TILE  CAllAVAX  llOAD 


287 


could  ii^vitc  our  friends,  and  no  friends*  to  invite,  yet 

till'  (lay  niciiiit  ><■>  imieli  to  ii>  that  wr  mu-t  cclebratr 
it  even  amid  tlic  silciur.  (Ksolatinii  and  daii^fcrs  that 
hiirroundt'tl  us.  i-'or  a  time  wo  forgot  all  about  robbers 
and  prepared  a  feast — a  rice  pudding  with  sultanas, 
siiirar  and  butter  in  it.  which  we  shared  with  our  ,ciiides. 
What  memories  came  Imopimr  up  t'rnm  the  pa>t.  of 
our  friends  in  America,  of  l\umbum  and  Tankar,  of 
Charlie,  and  of  all  the  joys  and  sorrows  that  had  come 
to  lis  since  Iiand  in  hand  we  had  ;rnne  furtli  to  fullil 
the  mission  to  wiiieli  wo  hail  been  called,  llnw  tenderlv 
my  husband  s])oke  of  the  mysterious  dealiii;;s  of  I'rov- 
idence,  and  of  his  faith  in  that  unchanging  love  which 
he  had  iearncil  to  trust,  even  where  lie  cnnid  not  trace. 
And  can  1  ever  forp't  his  words  nf  cnnifnr!  and  assur- 
ance to  me,  words  which  the  poet  ha-  thrown  into 
music : 

"  My  wife,  my  life!    Oh.  we  will  walk  this  world. 
Yoked  in  all  fxi>rcisp  of  nolilt"  end. 
And  so  through  tho.sc  dark  gates  across  the  wild 
Which  no  man  knows  ! " 

Little  did  I  realize  how  soon  he  was  to  pass  into  those 
daik  uates  leaving  mc  on  tlie  dreary  wild  alone.  Kveii 
that  liappy  day  was  inari'i'd  by  an  aeiident  which  hap- 
pened to  .Mr.  Kijiihart.  who  trod  on  the  rusty  buckle 
of  a  saddle  and  as  a  result  suffered  intense  pain,  which 
was  much  augmented  when  the  time  came  that  he  had 
to  journey  on  foot.  The  weatlier  was  jierfect  and  we 
eiijoyeil  talking  of  our  prospects  v.heu  we  reached  Ta^hi 
Gomba,  where  tlie  mamba  said  he  was  almost  sure  we 
would  be  allowed  to  spend  the  winter.    The  following 


2R8 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


(liiy  we  crossed  another  large  plain  at  the  eastern  ex- 
tremity of  which  we  forded  the  Dam  ("  m.  a  iH'uufiful 
river,  very  clear,  vwvy  \nAA>U'  in        liotlnin  of  wiiidi 
we  e-uild  tli^tinetly  see.    Before  wt"  .darted,  wolves  iu 
large  packs  howled  around  our  tent,  and  we  met  indi- 
vidual ones  on  the  road.    Top>y  dui^-nl  a  hraioiilv  a 
hundred  yanls  from  lis.  wliilc  a  lar^'c  hcnl  of  wild  cat- 
tle were  scattered  around  us.    On  .September  18  wo 
had  snow,  hail  and  rain  while  we  crossed  a  mountain 
called  Gerchen  tsang  mo  la,  and  eaini.ed  near  a  largo 
stream  of  which  the  iiiawhii  di-i  not  know  the  name. 
\oii(>  of  our  ,i,niides  had  ever  been  this  far  on  the  n)a<l 
before,  but  had  received  directions  as  to  how  to  find 
the  lamasery  we  were  looking  for,  and  as  the  Ja-lnm 
we  were  following  was  a  lai-e  tr.iil,  we  liad  little  fear 
of  losing  our  way.    Our  thre(>  guides  had  served  us 
faithfully  and  our  days  together  had  been  profits''" 
to  both  them  and  Mr.  Rijnhart,  to  the  hitter  espec 
in  the  Irnguage  and  character.    livery  day  wlien  ( 
ing  came,  the  iiiamha  had  taken  Ids  bell,  little  drum 
and  a  hook,  and,  sitting  in  the  far  corner  of  the  tent 
that  Rahim  had  used,  had  chanted  prayers  for  two 
hours  or  more.    The  "  lazy  boy  "  had  not  improve.l 
on  aciuainfance.  but  wa-  bearable,  the  otlier  two  more 
than  making  up  tor  his  disagreeabl"  manner,  which 
sometimes  even  amounted  to  sulkiness.  The  unexpected 
manner  in  which  even  these  guides  were  lost  to  us  will 
be  told  in  the  next  chapter. 


CllAPTEli  XIX 


ATTACKED  BV  MOUNTAIN  U0BBER8 

We  Cross  the  Tsa  Chu — Suspicious  Visitors — A  Shower 

of  F^iillots  and  BouIiIit: — Loss  ot'  our  Aiiitinil-- -Our 
(juitlfii  Disappear — Tlio  Dread  Xight  by  tlie  Uiver. 

TIu'  last  tout  pi'o|i|('  and  caravans  wliicli  uc  met  liad 
lold  our  jjiiidi's  tlial  wv  wure  ap|)i(>a(  liiii.u;  a  lar^'i-  river, 
I  he  'IVa  Chu,  and  had  ^'iven  tlie  dinetions  we  were 
to  follow,  in  order  to  reach  Tashi  (Joniba,  which  they 
infnrnifd  us  was  on  the  hank  of  the  above  river,  assur- 
]])'^  u>  of  tile  truth  of  the  siatcnient  liy  sayinj,'  tliat  tlip 
liunas  earrieil  water  from  the  river  to  niai<e  their  tea. 
Having  traveled  over  one  rocky  mountain  after  another 
.lud  across  two  streams  flowin^j:  >oiith,  \w  camped  on 
Scjitembcr  ninetoentli  within  si^^ht  of  a  hir;:e  ranfre  of 
mountains  east  of  us.  How  imposinj?  these  latter  were, 
perpendicular  and  bare,  rugped  and  severe,  giving  us 
the  impression  (hat  aionir  their  edge  flowed  ;i  large 
river.  'Pliis  was  also  the  tnninhd's  opinion,  for  lie  re- 
marked tliat  prol)ably  at  their  base  was  tlie  misihty  Tsa 
Chu.  Next  morning  we  reached  a  little  stream  which 
the  guides  said  was  a  feeder  of  tlie  T-a  Chu.  Follow- 
ing it  a  long  distance  by  the  side  of  rugged  mountains 
whose  peaks  were  barren  rocks  lost  in  the  clouds,  we 

289 


200 


WITH  TIIK  'I' I  RET  A  XS 


iia.-M'il  a  larjiv  iiuiicral  >iii  am  -|iri'ading  out  ami  flowing 
down  tho  Iiillsidc.  K'uving  dark  lirown  stains  on  the  rock 
ami  stone-  wluTcM  i'  i!  had  (ourscd.  and  eventually 
ivaclicd  tlic  'i'.-a  Cliii.  «  liciv  ;i  lai-jv  irilmtarv  flowed  into 
It.  llaviiij:  (■r;)>:-ei|  ilie  laller  wiih  \er\  little  dillieulty. 
notwithstandinf?  the  faet  that  lar<:e  masses  of  rock  half 
eoneealed  l)y  the  water  almost  (  lui-ed  t!ie  lo-s  of  some 
of  our  jioiiies,  we  iiaited  on  tln'  liaid^  of  tln'  main  river, 
tijihtened  our  'girths.  fJiaii^jed  the  lie.-t  s|)ot  for  fording, 
and  all  dashed  into  the  water  shoutiiifj  lustily  to  eii- 
cnuiap'  ourselve-;  am!  the  horses.  'PlioULrli  \>-  \  wide, 
the  river  wa-  not  more  than  two  and  a  half  feel  dee)), 
and  the  current  was  iieitlie.  ru^liin^  nor  siro.ii,'  as  in 
some  other  rivers  we  had  recently  crossed,  hence  we 
eonjiratulated  our-'  -  on  our  ;.'oo(l  fnmiMe  in  havinr^ 
left  behind  u-  the  la-l  laru'e  river  lo  hr  foi'dcil  nnlil  we 
should  pa.-s  the  lamasery.  As  the  caravan  rtiad  did 
not  skirt  the  river,  wc  turned  aside  from  it  '  i  t'  e  rifjht 
and  followed  a  hridle  path  m -n,  :  l.aid<.  the  people 
liavintr  tji\en  the  in fni  Mat i.>n  that  in  half  a  dayV  j<nir- 
nev  dov.ii  the  rivei'  from  the  ford,  yak  eouhi  t'a>ily  rea<  h 
the  laniaMfy  of  which  we  were  in  search. 

Our  march  that  day  had  heen  a  wearisome  onr  for 
us  all.  iind  we  immediately  lodked  \'nv  a  suiiaMi^  plao' 
to  earn])  wliere  tlwre  wa>  good  fodder:  half  an  hour 
after  fording  we  found  one,  a  level  sward,  with  inlls  he- 
hind  us  covere(l  with  grass  iin<l  tirewocxl.  and  in  front 
of  us  thr  T-a  Cliu.  Having  pitched  our  tent-  on  the 
northea>t  of  the  ri^  r.  we  roamed  about  enjoying  the 
gorgeouf  view  tliat  pres<>nted  itself  to  us.  The  valley 
from  which  we  had  just  emergeil  was  narrow:  the  hills 


ATTACKED  BY  MOT'XTAIN  ROBBERS  291 


miiiiiiiiiiii>  oil  cither  >nW  wviv  viiw^vA  a<:iiiii>t  tlio 
horizon  in  glittoriiij:  mai^sfs.  rufrjrt'tl.  fiintastk-  and  mul- 
lironn  111  uutliiic,  ainl  <>(  v.iinil  tiiit^,  tlio  lirilliaiit 
LTci'M  of  ;hi'  >h)iiiii^  pa-turi'  himl  iiiniiiit iii;^  ^iraihiiilly 
iiiitl  fadiii,:;  iiilo  ihf  ik'licalc  inirplc  aiul  <^\vy  of  llu' 
rocky  summits;  tlu>  river  in  its  placid  onward  ooiu>c 
>iiirjH's(cd  |)caci'  and  jxiwcr ;  tlic  hillo(  l<>  i  Io»c  to  its 
rdui'  ncrn--  from  ih.  -cciiu'd  with  tiu'ir  j-idc  irariiK  ;it- 
iif  iltci)  \''i'diiri'  lapcriii;^  olV  into  rot  ky,  >iiii-^Mhh'<l 
(■rests,  like  monarchs  of  a  lower  rank  rellectiiif?  the 
-[iK'ndor  of  tlie  kingly  giant-like  elevations  wIiom  lieail>. 
I'lweiiiij:  far  iilioxe,  were  erowiied  with  azure  and  i;ohl. 
liehimi  us  again,  were  other  hills  elothi'd  with  lieauty  in 
iiiiiiutc  detail,  from  the  massive  rocks  with  their  ding- 
ing lichen.-  to  the  pretty  low  -hrubs  covered  with  -niiill 
I'  .ives  and  yellow  tlower-  like  niinii Jure  ro-e-.  The  lit- 
tle paths  iiiter.Mv  iiig  one  aiiuilier  and  ruiuiiiig  in  all 
directions  suggested  our  proximity  to  a  lamasery  or 
encampment,  and  in  anticipation  of  reaching  it  soon 
we  were  happy. 

Toward  nightfall  two  men  on  white  lior^i's  emerged 
from  the  valley  we  ourselves  had  just  (piilted,  and, 
in-tead  of  fording  the  river,  skirted  the  bank,  ar- 
riving at  a  spot  nppo-iie  us.  uhe.'e  they  reined 
in  their  hor>es  to  liold  euiiver-e  with  mir  iiieii.  'I'he 
hi/y  hoy  went  to  tlie  river's  edge  and  talked  with  them, 
during  which  time  Mr.  Rijnhart  leisurely  took  a  good 
look  at  them  through  the  telescope.  They  were  heavily 
.irnied  with  guns,  spears,  and  .-words,  had  no  saddle 
hags,  hence  wi  re  not  travelers,  and  one  of  them  had 
liis  face  painted  red  and  yellow.    While  they  talked 


299  WITH  THE  TTRET.WS 

they  iiiilulgid  in  snutT,  iiikI  lookcil  too  t\oM']y  at  our 
piniiis  to  mukc  us  ffi'l  iill<t<.'i't!u'r  ttttuforttible,  tlu' 

iiiiiiiihii  -tiimlinu'  II' ■ir  Ikmhu'  <>!'  tli''  -iunr  M|iinion  ;i- 
niir-.  lvr«.  IliMiii;^  sui-li.  .1  ilx'ir  curiosity  llii'V  disiip- 
]r,;uv<l  u\<T  ilic  lull-  iliiiuun;illy  (nm  tlio  rivor  tlown 
!-! renin.  hiinic(liiit<'l\  lli<>  •riiidrs  canu'  to  duition  U'' 
nlmnt  tlii'ir  |iri)liiili!i'  iiiiruiinii  ti>  mli  tliat  iii;;lit.  inin 
tliMit  -  iiiv|i,iiv(i  1(1  meet  till'  •■iicMiv  liv  t.ikin^;  down 
tlii  ir  It  lit.  mlrndiii^  -I<t|>  niu-i'lc  ^o  lliiil  tlu'y  coulil 
wnlcli  flifir  -i\  !ior>;t's.  Wf  |nit  tho  iron  hol)l>l('s  on 
niir-.  tied  Toii-y  l"'hi:id  ilicm.  :ind  Mr.  iiijidmrl  >!•'[•■ 
in  til"  dnor  nf  ill.'  flit  Miiii  l"itli  revolvers  ready  lo 
l"ri;;iiteii  anyone  wlio  >linuld  ((.me  aimut  during  tlie 
ni;.'lit.  It  was  the  vory  la>t  time  we  usc<l  a  tent.  The 
niirht  passed  liut  no  noise  wa-  li.  ard,  and  in  the  nviin- 
i>fj.  f.'clini,'  that  we  nii;.dit  liav.>  been  umiiily  alarnud, 
\,e  bent  our  tliouj;hts  and  !ii>|ns  on  the  lania-eiy,  llie 
Very  sound  of  Ta.shi  (Joiid-'  Iiavin'T  nov  t,(voine  as 
niu-ie  in  our  ears.  We  couM  tind  no  jiroiMT  roa.i — ^)llly 
a  lii'idlf  path  tli, It  nnw  skirled  Mie  river'-  ed-f.  then 
|i  d  up  to  well-ni'jh  ina(ce»ilde  |  laee>  and  ein  led  ou 
iht;  slopt'S  of  Me.  p  lulls.  The  ridinj;-  was  un-afe  and 
often  we  had  to  rest  our  horn's.  On.'  of  ih.  :ii  f.'li  and 
his  entire  loa.i  had  t.i  lie  renin-,, .1  Im'I'.hv  h.'  wi.uld  at- 
iein])t  to  rise,  even  lh"n  reinainin,^  complacently  as  he 
Innl  fallen  until  we  fo.-cihly  aitk'd  him  to  use  his  feet. 

Ahout  noon  we  foHowed  a  road  (hnvn  to  the  river 
to  a  L'ra-sv  jihiee  where  was  ap]>arentlv  a  vaK-trail. 
hut  heyond  which  the  rocks  looked  as  if  they  jutted 
into  the  river.    To  avoid  having  to  retrace  our  steps 
v.-e  (ind  it  thus,  we  sent  the  ki/v  liov  ahead  to  see, 


ATT.U  Kl.li  iiV  MOl  .NTAIN  UUlil'.KRS  '2'JZ 


and  as  he  did  not  return  we  cuDcluded  the  road  was 

|li^^•^a^lK';  m>  dro  -f  mir  iiiiimals  iicnifs  the  iirum,  over 
a  little  liiKoik.  to  lin-l  tiie  Ix.y  Mlliii;,'  Inlaying  with 
pebbles  l>c-iile  the  river,  near  a  t-j)ot  where  the  water 
boiled  ajraiiist  a  elilT  that  r():*e  ste»  p  iiiul  ftraii;ht  and 
impii-al.li'  fr.)m  it-  \v:ii.  ry  drptli-^.    Mr.  Uijiihiirt  .-ii;^- 
^'e^t(•ll  t'nrdiii.t;  tlic  river  and  refonliiig  further  on,  but 
tlie  ihuiiiIhi  >nii\  tliat  our  horses,  esjwcially  the  one  that 
ha«l  fallen,  tired  out  with  the  day's  travel,  would  be 
unable  to  stem  \  h.<-  tlood.  and  it  woulil  l>c  be-t  to  return, 
rest  there  on  that  ;,'ra.-<v  spnt  while  we  drank  tea,  and 
then  go  up  over  tiie  hills  and  ho  pa>t  the  ditticult  place. 
Knowing  the  wisdom  of  his  advice,  we  acquiesced,  and, 
havin},'  arrived,  took  the  loads  off  our  horses;  tli(>n  th<' 
ni.  ii  ij-ot  three  ^ionc-i  to  rest  the  pot  on,  gath<'red  fuel 
and  hejraM  to  j.repare  our  luiu  h.    The  river  flowed  in 
front  of  us,  while  behind,  a  distance  of  seventy  feet 
from  the  former,  ro>e  ditTs  and  roeks  at  the  foot  of 
V  I,:, !;  v.rrc  tr,i'   -  nt'  n!.!  (-i.nps.  su(  h  as  ashes  on  the 
jrround  and  smoke  on  the  >iones.    We  rt'clined  in  the 
shade  of  the  cliff  un  il  the  tea  would  be  ready,  and 
Mr.  Rijnhart  said  .-uihlenly  that  h<<  thought  he  heanl 
men  whistling;  in  the  cliaraeteristie  way  in  which  they 
drive  yak.    We  all  listened,  but  heard  nothing,  when, 
without  any  warning,  a  shot  rang  through  the  air,  the 
bullet  falling  in  the  water.    At  the  connnand  of  the 
inamha  the  two  boy>  jumped  up  and  ran  to  drive  tlie 
I'.Mr-es  into  the  slu'iter  of  tlie  elitl",  where  they  could  he 
prevented  from  slam[ie(iin-4  on  the  little  road  leading 
up  to  the  robl)ers.    The  "  nice  boy  "  was  shot  almost 
immediately  through  the  right  upper  arm,  whereupon 


294 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


\vp  all  promiscuously  sought  cover  at  the  side  of  the 

clitV.  Hullrt-  coiitiiiucd  to  fall  lik<'  rain.  Immense 
hnuli!cr>  Were  hurled  dnwii  from  the  li('ij.'ht.-,  iiiiy  one 
of  whiili  striking  us  wmdd  have  crushed  us  i)eyond 
recognition,  while  acconipiinying  hoth  the  shooting  and 
llie  hurling  nf  the  ynvkr-  ilierc  wi-w  yrlls,  piercing  an<l 
liidciiu-.  whiili  (iiily  Tilirian  ruliiMT-  kmnv  hdw  In  utter. 
.Mr.  Itijnharl.  delerniincd  »o  aKcrtaiu  the  direction 
from  which  the  hullets  >vere  coming,  and  who  was 
firing  tlK'ui.  stei)pi'd  out  J'roiu  iiiulcr  tlio  clitV  towaids 
the  ri\i'r".-  edge  ar.d  looked  u|i.  only  to  be  giTctcd  liv  a 
')ullet  wliicli,  as  lie  ^uddeidy  .-looped,  .-truck  the  ground 
behind  him.  He  (piickly  returned  to  shelter,  but  in 
hi.s  haste  ran  into  the  nook  where  the  guides  were 
(■roucli('<l.  so  that  he  was  hidden  from  me.  as  a  project- 
ing angle  .separated  niy  nook  from  theirs.  There  1  was 
alone,  not  knowing  at  the  time  whether  my  husband 
had  been  killed  or  wounded,  or  whet  Iter  he  had  taken 
refuge  somewhere  under  the  clitT.  Tliere  had  alw.iys 
been  an  implicit  under>tanding  tietwecii  ns  that  1  was 
to  remain  just  where  he  left  me  in  ca.-e  of  peril  or 
danger,  relying  nn  his  care  over  me  even  when  absent. 
So,  straiinng  niy.^elf  as  close  to  the  rocks  as  po.--ii)le, 
1  waited  breathing  a  ])rayer  for  the  iirntt^ction  (rf 
our  lives,  for  1  tliought  my  hu.-liand  and  tiie  guides 
had  gone  to  parley  with  the  robbers.  After  what 
s<emed  a  long  time,  tlie  liring  alino-i  r.M-cd.  then 
a  limil  vulhy  of  (piii-k  .-iiol,-  and  ,i  few  deafening 
yells,  followe<l  i)y  ^llouts  dying  away  in  the  dis- 
tance, told  us  that  for  the  immediate  present  the 
danger  Mas  over.    Mr.  Rijnhart  then  came  up  and 


ATTACKED  BY  IMOUXTAIX  ROBBERS  20i 


iirew  hin»;('lf  in  exh.iustion  on  the  <;rounil.  staying: 
■"  We'  .  ....  ;;,ivr  ]"<t  all  our  lioi'-o  I'Xi  eiii  ilircL'.""  What 
it  sif  'i  <>''  intc'Ti  I''  id'  I  licavrd  I  1  was  so  thankful 
lo  so,  hi  :.  iir.havn:'  il  al'tor  my  (ln'a<liii;;  hi>  licint;  killed. 

Ha.,  y:.;  -I'-  pcaco  with  them ?  "  I  asked.  "  Why," 
ho  rcpliiil,  ■•  I  have  iicvci-  scon  ihoni.  oxeopt  when  1 
wont  to  look  up  and  >aw  tlmr  nioi:  iirhind  a  rook  witli 
llioir  ;,nin.<  rostnig  loady  ainiod  ;  the  powder  Hashed  in 
tiie  pan;  involuntarily  I  stooped,  and  then  sought  and 
ri'mained  in  shelter,  attending  to  the  poor  boy'.s  arm, 
all  torn  and  lili'odiii;^-." 

lie  then  took  nie  \>y  the  hand,  ami  oarofuUy  keeping 
close  to  the  rocks,  we  crejjt  to  where  the  guides  were, 
and  saw  that  three  of  the  horses  that  were  apparently 
^a\  d  had  hoon  >h<it,  one  lioing  already  doad,  wliih* 
anotluT  was  ^liot  through  tlii-  haokiiono  and  rould  not 
rise.  Some  of  our  horsos  had  ahsolutoly  n  fusod  to 
he  frightened  by  the  bullets  and  boulders  that  were 
cleverly  directed  by  the  wily  robbers,  to  divido  us  from 
our  horsi's  ;ind  ]irovout  our  savin;,^  "nnn  :  hut  llio  hi-t 
>hots  had  dospatolii'd  throe  of  those  four,  so  that  we 
might  not  be  able  to  pursue  or  trace  the  thieves.  The 
guides,  who  uiidorstood  the  tactics,  had  managed  to 
•avo  throe  of  their  ]>onios,  expo-iug  t''  'iiisolvos  to  firo 
tlioroby,  but  we,  ignorant  of  the  natives'  way  (d'  ruijbing, 
imagined  they  would  come  down  from  above,  and  did 
not  try  to  -avo  our  liois's.  though  it  is  manifest  that 
Wo  would  have  hoon  shot  had  wo  intorforod.  A  sorrow- 
ful, frightened  little  band  we  were,  grouped  together  in 
the  cover  afforded  us  by  the  friendly  rocks,  the  wounded 
boy  tenderly  nursing  his  arm,  on  which  the  blood  had 


29G 


WITH  THE  TTTIETAXS 


left  iiiiivks  iitth'  diirker  llian  the  akin,  aud  whose  face 
bore  bolides  the  expression  of  i«un,  that  of  iiurt  sur- 
jtrise  tli;it  he  ^h()uhl  have  liceii  the  only  one  to  be  in- 
jiiretl.  We  niaiKiLri'i!  to  dra;:  the  pot  ol"  tea  into  >heltor, 
wiiere  we  (juenehed  our  thir.-t  and  niini^teretl  to  llie 
nioe  boy,"  who  was  faint  from  h)ss  of  bloo(h  The 
iiiainba  said:  "Buddha  knows  that  the  men  will  re- 
turn for  nur  ba^pip'.  kill  u>  all,  and  throw  u,-  in  the 
liver."  -Mr.  Kijnhart  walked  up  a  little  di-tanee  to 
drive  baek  the  old  grey  horse  which  was  straying  in 
the  direction  his  companions  had  gone,  and  quickly 
the  three  guides  i)repanMl  for  de]iartnre.  Tlu"  lazy 
1h)v  shouldcriMl  his  own  and  his  wouiuUmI  comrade's  gun. 
They  helped  the  latter  to  a  seat  on  u  iiaok-saddie,  their 
riding  saddles  all  having  boon  stolon  but  one.  and, 
only  delaying  a  moment  to  answer  n;y  ini|uiry,  "Where 
are  yon  roingy"  \>y  replying,  " 'I'o  the  monastery  for 
many  men  to  come  willi  us  to  find  the  robbers,"  they 
started  off  to  the  river.  Having  said  they  had  better 
stay  until  their  leader  returned,  I  called  ^Ir.  llijiduirt. 
but  when  he  arrived  at  the  spot  they  were  halt'  wav 
across  the  river,  and  he  had  no  horse  with  which  to 
follow  them. 

(Quietly  we  dragged  our  possessions  into  the  shel- 
ter of  the  elilfs.  tied  our  grey  horse  near  them, 
and  sat  down  to  drink  tea.  The  feeling  uppermost  in 
our  minds  was  one  of  thankfulness  that  our  lives  were 
spared,  and  that  we  were  unhurt  and  had  our  food 
and  bedding  left  us.  One  dead  horse  was  already  a 
pivy  to  the  vulture-,  while  the  pretty  black  horse  lay 
not  far  away,  jiaralyzed  from  an  injury  through  the 


ATTACKED  BY  MOFXTAIX  T^OBP.ERS  297 


-pine.    Ill'  had  iiiv  riding  saddle  on  liiiii,  ihe  Didy  na- 
tive sat' ''c  1  liad  ovor  found  i  Mnfortablo,  and  suitable 
for  lonij  journeys.    The  chohtnut  horfC,  sliot  through 
a  vital  ^]1ot.  ami  in  jiaiii.  wmiilrrrd  tu  the  grey  lior-r  t'i>r 
iniurort.  lay  down  near  him,  neighed  good-hyes  to  tlie 
hhiek  lior.-e,  laid  down  his  head  and  died.   We  were  now 
alone  with  our  grey  horse,  the  poorest  of  the  caravan, 
llie  one  tliat  had  fallen  that  ^anie  nioruing.  and  was 
!vallv  the  cause  of  our  having  halted  at  that  grassy 
plaee.    Suddenly  we  niis.-ed  Topsy,  and.  upon  compar- 
ing our  knowledw  of  her  movements,  we  found  that 
v.i>  had  last  seen  her  ru-hiiig  toward  the  road  when  the 
-liots  Were  lired.    Slu'  had  alwavs  lieen  aicustonu'd  to 
run  after  an  animal  when  K'aliim  went  to  havt'  some 
port  with  the  gun,  and  we  feared  she  had  gonc^  off  with 
u;ir  horses,  i)ut  ho])ed  she  would  discover  le  r  mistake 
:ind  return.    It  wa,-  anout  two  o'clock  in  tli  afternoon. 
.  ;d,  talking  it  all  over  we  decided  to  stay  in  thai  place 
until  the  next  day  to  see  if  our  guides  were  true  or 
not,  though  we  had  a  very  strong  suspicion  they  were 
not,  and  even  that  they  were  in  leagui'  with  the  rnhhers. 
and  had  deliberately  led  us  into  ambush.    One  point 
was  certain,  either  they  had  been  treacherous  or  they 
had  not  known  the  road,  and  unconsciously  led  u- 
along  tha'  bridle  ))a1h.     In  either  case,  the  ponlju  id' 
.\;;geiruk'a  would  be  held  ri'sponsible  for  the  trouble, 
iKcause  a-;  long  as  we  were  on  the  Caravan  Road  no 
harm  had  come  to  us,  and  Tashi  Gomba  is,  as  far  as 
I  can  learn,  on  tluit  highway,  but  the  guides  ha<i  ])uv- 
po>e1y  or  unwittingly  led  us  astray.    t)wing  to  this 
uncertainty  of  the  intention  of  the  guides,  we  concluded 


20S 


WITH  TTIE  TIBETAXS 


to  iuvM't  ilicir  rttiu'ii  until  ivxt  i!;iv  ^ilmut  iicon,  anJ 
llit'ii.  .  thfv  caiiir  I'.nt,  to  prcpaii'  to  travel  on  loot 
until  wo  roac-liL'd  tlie  laniasiTv.  Rut  tlion  came  the 
question,  wlioiT  w;;-  lain.i-crv  ?  Wvvv  \V(>  on  the  eof- 
ft'i't  foai!  <)!•  ma  y    iin\\  I'ai'  I'l'Min  it  wcri'  wc?  A- 

t!io  aftcniouii  woiv  auav  we  kept.  1)V  ni"an.>  ol'  tlie 
telescope,  a  fairly  piod  lookout  for  ilie  np]>roaeh  of 
liuman  beincs,  wlietlier  (Mieinie?  or  ntlierwise;  hut  eveii- 
inj;  eani<'  on  and  we  liad  -I'en  no  one.  thouiiii  we  had 
a  very  strong  feeling  tliat  we  were  lieing  watelied  ail 
the  time,  while  sounds  of  the  recent  shots  r  ig  in  our 
ears. 

The  rohbers  were  well  aware  of  the  faet  that  we 
had  -even  loads  of  bagpige  for  wliii'h  we  had  no  ni.-a'!- 
of  tran-[)ort,  as  were  also  tln'  guides,  and  we  iiad  no 
doubt  that  our  movomonts  were  being  spied  from  the 
hill-  or  elifT>  about  us:  lienee  we  had  some  fear-  that 
they  might  return  to  po-sess  thein-elve-  of  the  valii- 
ai)les.  Our  loads  were  not  of  such  great  value  to  us 
that  we  cared  to  risk  our  lives  defending  them,  and 
the  place  had  pueh  a^-ociations  a<  to  give  n-  uncannv 
feelings,  so  we  decided  to  abandon  tiie  (IllT-  for  the 
itight,  wh.en  darkness  obscureil  our  movements.  Si- 
lently, not  speaking  above  a  whisper,  wo  look  our 
bedding  to  the  edge  of  the  river,  where  there  was  a 
margin  of  <tor,es  six  feet  wide  betwi>en  the  water  and 
a  shelving  bank  two  feet  high.  Spreading  our  rugs 
and  bhiT  rets  down,  and  covering  ourselves  well,  we 
rested  where  the  water  nlino-l  laved  our  feet.  Rain 
fell  gentlv  most  of  the  niglit.  but  we  were  protected 
by  our  rubber  sheeting.    We  bad  always  carried  on  our 


ATTACKED  IJY  MOI  XTAIX  ROlUiKllS  299 


])er^on!'  money  in  the  form  of  sycee,  bullion  silver 

iiiL'ots  (if  \arii)us  wei^^lit?;.  and  if  we  had  been  discov- 
criMl  that  ui.uhl.  we  intended  to  take  to  the  water,  and 
ujiun  reaehin;^  the  other  bank,  make  uur  way  to  tents 
t'oi-  aiil.  Tile  niglit  wa!<  very  long  and  dark,  no  objeet 
being  diseernilde,  and  no  sound  heard  but  the  rippling 
of  tlie  w.iti'i-  oviT  the  stone.-,  and  the  cry  of  some  ani- 
mal or  hird  unknown  to  us,  that  seemed  to  >  ome  from 
aliove  among  the  elilfs.  and  like  a  sentry's  eall  and 
answer  re-echoed  through  the  mountain  silence.  To- 
wards moi'uing  it  cca-cd  raining:  a  g^vy  light  ovi'r- 
spread  the  .-ky  and  transformed  the  ri\ci'  into  a  sec- 
ond sky  liui  we  (  id  not  know  the  dawn  was  breaking, 
thinking  the  increasing  light  was  due  to  the  clouds 
dispersing.  Then  the  gi'iy  \-:M\  slowly  suffused  the 
'\hnle  atmosphere,  and  we  ciridd,  discdver  rocks  an<l 
chlfs  and  hills  standing  out.  iirst  imlistinetly  against 
the  heavens,  and  then  in  dark  relief.  As  the  horizontal 
streaks  (d"  light  began  to  take  their  places  in  the  (  loud? 
over  the  mounlain-  we  aro~e  and,  dragging  onr  iieilding 
l)ack  to  the  clilf.  were  welcomed  by  our  grey  horse,  and 
found  all  as  we  had  left  it.  We  wrapped  bonie 
blankets  about  us  and  crouched  down  until  it  was 
hrealdast  time,  when  we  gathered  some  firewood  and 
ma<le  our  tea. 

We  both  realized  the  magnitude  of  the  misfortune 
that  had  befallen  us,  and  each  endeavored  to  make 
liglil  id'  it,  and  the  result  was  a  predominance  of 
brightness  rather  than  gloom;  allliongh  we  were  al- 
most certain  that  our  guides  had  de-erted  us,  and  that 
we  Would  very  soon  have  to  find  our  way  on  foot  cither 


3(10 


W  ITH  Till-;  TinETAXS 


to  the  lamnscrv  (tr  to  an  cin  .iiiipincnt  whorr  we  inii,')il 
li()|M'  tn  liifi'  -imir  ;inimii!>.  M;i|il;i\-  cniin'  with  !)riir!it 
-imsluiii".  -u  uc  iiiiliil  iill  (iiir  liiij;\i:a,ui'  ami  si'|>arat('(l 
rmrn  it  what  wf  wi-hcd  to  take  willi  lis.  not  of  courso 
all  wo  wanted.  i)iit  what  we  conltl  take  alonp,  hecause 
"'ir  line  ri'iiiaitiiiiix  Iini'sr  w;i-  itK  ^ipalilc  nj'  carcv  ini:  a 
iicavv  load.  It  was  vcrv  (iitlii-iilt  to  reject  our  most 
eherishod  possessions,  and  when  our  Bihh's  of  year.-' 
use,  our  iii.-i ruiiients  and  many  things  that  had  beeome 
a  part  of  mir  lirini;-  liad  r-.  lie  laid  a-ide.  wr  felt  it  :  hut 
necessity  is  a  >terii  ma.-ter.  and  it  had  to  be.  We  sc- 
k'eted  enou^irli  food  to  la-t  lifteen  days,  all  the  bedding;- 
needed,  one  hirpe  and  one  small  pot,  some  dessieatfd 
soups,  IiitI'  tea  and  cniiilcn-nl  mi'':.  ,i  (  hanui'  of  i  l-ith- 
in^r  and  tlu-  diary  of  ilic  jdiinicv.  Mr.  IlijniiartV  \V\h\i- 
with  a  few  papers,  two  or  three  clieri.-lie(|  l)eloii;,n - 
that  had  been  loved  and  handled  by  our  darlinji  little 
l)oy.  and  a  t'.'W  -uiidric-.  lucrythinj:  ''l.-e  that  wa- 
valuable  wc  buried  umlcr  stnn.'s  ;it  the  Co. it  of  tli" 
cliff,  and  left  in  one  corner  the  tents,  pack-saddles,  etc.. 
hopinfi  that  we  nii<rht  meet  some  one  who  would  eome 
back  with  us  to  fiet  tlte  thinjrs,  and  yet  feelinfj  all  the 
tinic  so  sun>  that  the  robbers  wer(>  watchin;^  u,-.  rcadv  to 
swiiep  down  like  carries  ai'ter  their  prey  a>  soon  as  wc 
had  pone.  The  afternoon  wore  away,  the  sun  sank 
behind  the  liills,  and  the  shades  of  evenin-j  brought  no 
,^iii',c>,  but  did  brinir  us  an  indclinable  aversion  to 
spendinfi  another  nij,dit  in  that  ])lace,  associated,  as  it 
was,  with  robbers,  whore  sleep  would  be  altogether  out 
of  the  question.  We  placed  our  riding  gaddlo  on  our 
grey  horse,  and  on  it  piled  as  much  of  the  baggage 


ATTA(  KKI)  UV  MOl  N  TAIN  UOlUiKlIS 


we  had  scli'c  ti'u  as  lio  could  possibly  carrv.  ^Ir.  Hijn- 
hart  >hoiilili''i'(l  the  ivinaiiidcr.  ami  cai  ii  takiiii^  in 
liaml  a  ^taiV  loiiiposcd  of  half  a  lciit-|>Mlc.  wc  sa'  1  good- 
l»ye  to  tlR'  cliffs  and  retraced  our  'Jtep*!  to  follow  the 
same  road,  up  whicii  the  horses  had  stainpi'dcd.  As 
we  Were  |ia-^in;:'  the  Ma-  k  hiii\-t'  he  iricd  hard  tn  join 
US  and  neighed  I'ai'ewell  as  far  as  we  could  see  him. 
^fr.  Hijnhart  would  have  shot  him  out  of  mercy,  but 
I  !)ej:ged  him  not  to,  for  I  could  not  bear  the  sound  of 
t!ic  revolver  to  ring  out.  perhaps  to  give  notiee  of  our 
whercaliouts  to  some  travelers  overhead,  theieby  en- 
tailing more  trouble.  Cowardly,  it  is  true,  the  feeling 
wag,  but  for  long  afterwards  the  sound  of  shooting 
brought  anything  but  pleasant  memories  to  my  mind. 


CHAPTER  XX 


OCR  LAST  DAYS  TOGETHER 

The  Robbers'  Ambush— The  Worst  Ford  of  All— Foot- 

iiiiirk-  and  a  False  Hope — A  I)o>c'rte(l  Camp — The 
r»(il  l  iiilcr  the  Snow — Mr.  Iiijiiliart  Goes  to  Native 
Tents  for  Aid,  Never  to  IJetiini. 

The  LH'assy  >]vA  be.-i(le  tlie  elifl'  was  an  ideal  camp- 
ing |)laee,  all'oniin<,'  shelter  fmm  the  cold,  iileak,  jiierc- 
intr  winds,  or  from  the  hot  rays  of  the  noonday  sim  on 
w  iiin  days;  but  tli(^  recent  ociiirrence  had  renioveil  all 
til"  charms  nature  had  pre\  iously  possessed  for  us,  and 
we  were  glad  to  tread  (uir  way  slowly  up  the  trail  we  had 
come  down  the  day  before.  Ascending  even  so  insig- 
nificant an  incline  was  laborious,  for  instead  >>['  havim: 
our  sturdy  ponies  to  carry  us  up.  wo  had  to  walk,  while 
Mr.  IJijnhart,  in  addition  to  shouldering  a  heavy  bur- 
don,  had  to  drag  along  the  almost  spent  horse  with  his 
load,  an  impossible  task  had  I  not  been  behind  to  urge 
tlie  poor  animal  on  witli  my  ^taff.  Soon  we  were  at 
tiu'  to]),  passing  the  rohliers"  ami)ush  of  the  day  be- 
fore, and  a  beautiful  spot  it  was  behind  the  rocks,  a 
pretty  little  hollow  having  ser  .'ed  to  shelter  their  horses 
while  they  busied  themsclvc;  in  obtninir.g  ours.  How 
many  men  there  had  been  wc  could  not  tell,  but  we 

303 


IKI  S  HIJNHAKT. 


(H  U  LAST  DAYS  TOCiETIIKK' 


303 


ilicrc  '.vcrr  ten  or  twelve,  and  tlicy  had  prob- 
lu'Ci;  fnllnuiiiL;  watfliiiii;  ii>  nil  the  mnriiiiij; 

lu'l'iirf  a  gouii  (>iiiKirtuiiity  fur  niiiluiiii  us  witliout  ilaiii,'fr 
prt'scnti'd  ilsi'lf.  It  had  now  grown  dark.  l)Ut  tli.Tf 
was  suHicii'iit  light  to  I'linhii'  us  to  pursue  our  way  a 
^ll^r(  (li.-taiicc.  uluMi  we  ~tii|)|)iM|  tn  caiiii).  hrcause  we 
wfiv  n.)t  SUM'  wlutli(.'r  shadow-  that  lay  across  our  path 
wen-  gullies  or  not,  and  wo  did  not  wish  to  lose  our 
hearings.  We  unloaded  our  horse,  which  nt)W  seemed 
-o  precious  to  u-,  tethered  him  near  l)\ ,  arrau^i'd  our 
food  in  little  pac  ka;;-es  at  our  liead>.  lo  prevent  a  wild 
animal  snapping  at  u.-  without  wariur.g,  and  lay  down 
exhausted  but  much  more  at  ease  in  our  minds  than 
had  we  reni  iiiied  helow  theelifFs.  The  (pieen  of  the  night 
•lowly  wemlcl  luT  way  acrov-  tln'  star-dotted  liea\eiis, 
dilliising  light  and  >ha(l<)Ws  ahou!  u>  while  we  re>ted, 
l)ut  slept  very  little.  Arising  at  dawn  we  found  every- 
thing that  had  !>e.  ii  ex.tosed  to  the  atniosplien>  >tilf  and 
covered  with  thick  frost,  and  weiv  a-loni-hed  to  di>- 
(over  ourselves  on  t!ie  edge  of  a  dvvp  gully,  into  whieh 
we  would  have  fallen  had  we  made  a  few  more  stei)s 
the  ])revious  night.  We  had  no  idea  that  we  were  in 
the  vicinity  of  such  ;:  ulacr,  iimch  le--  so  near  it. 

The  next  ditlieuity  we  eneountered  was  our  inabil- 
ity to  make  a  fire,  having  no  fuel  except  the  (injols,  and 
not  being  proficient  in  the  use  of  the  Til)etan  bellows 
(a  goat>kin  tied  ai  one  t>nd  to  a  round  iron  pipe  four- 
teen inches  long,  and  ai.>out  one  inch  in  diameter), 
which  are  manipulated  by  a  pecaliar  motion  of  the 
hands.  Although  Mr.  Rijnhart  had  had  considerable 
practice  with  the  bellows  while  sitting  with  the  na- 


01 


WITH  THK  TIBETANS 


lives  anuiritl  a  wi-ll-lila/iiig  lire,  he  I'uuinl  it  tjuitc  an- 
otliiT  muttrr  to  start  onu  wlu-ii  m)  lilllc  forte  wa^  rc- 
ijuired,  so  that  at  (iivt  he  nuceeedid  only  in  extiiiguiish- 
iii",'  the  hlazc  iii'«trail  of  inereufiii^  il.  It  took  our 
( ciiiiltincd  iiiyi'niiity  and  elTortrt  to  linally  get  the  lire 
>tarte»l  that  morning,  and  then  1  gathered  fuel  while 
lie  plied  the  awkwanl  lu  llows.  During  tlir  tea  drinking 
Mf  disiu^.-fd  niir  plaii-.  and  kiiowiiiLr  llir  oMr-wci^Oii 
of  our  load-,  Ituili  liiat  ol  llic  liin'-i'  and  liu'  oiu'  under 
which  niy  huslmrtl  was  obliged  to  trudge  with  his  sore 
I'o'ii,  and  considering,  hc-idcs  llii,-.  ni\  own  |M)or  health, 
«!■  I'rli  \\r  iiiu-l  ii'>i  uandir  aiml'  -  !\  ai'iMiiid.  We 
idanned  to  tulluw  the  river  down  i<>i  tuu  da\.-,  and 
then  if  we  failed  to  iind  traces  of  the  lamasery  or 
iriits,  hraneh  olf  to  liie  left,  to  again  strike  the  ('ara\an 
li'iiad;  I'or,  aeeordin;;'  to  our  cninjia,--  and  kinmlcd^'e  of 
the  general  direction,  we  wire  not  ju.-t  then  lieviating 
very  much  from  the  latter.  Having  found  a  path  along 
the  little  stream  on  which  we  had  canii)cd,  leading 
toward  the  'l^a  Cliu,  we  followed  it  around  a  hill,  and 
M)on  were  be.-ide  the  oli-uueling  rocks  beyond  which 
our  hoy  had  been  sitting  on  the  day  of  the  robbery,  and 
w  here  wo  commanded  a  view  ol  the  river  and  its  oppo- 
site bank  stivtching  away  into  ojieii  a-'d  level  country. 

AI'itT  tra'.'  Iing  lli:re  hours  aloii;.''  -ivr]!  sln])e<,  we 
reached  an  overhanging  ledge  whrre  we  ixUist  either 
ford  the  river  or  branch  in  over  the  hills.  Surveyine: 
the  latter,  we  saw  them  rise  one  tier  above  another 
♦'udlessly,  and  fdt  that  in  our  circumstances  neither 
>  0  nor  ,)ur  horse  were  able  to  undertake  any  more 
mountain  climbing.    Visually  measuring  the  width  of 


i*i  \t  \..\sT  \i.\\s  t<k;ktfii;i{  no5 

till'  ri\('i'  with  i(>  vftliimc  unl  '  "rrnil,  we  hlinuik  fmtn 
•  rohhiii;.',  I)ut  Ml-.  Ii'ijiili.ii  .1  111-  V,  is  ultl''  1  .  !-wiiii  in 
.iii.v  t'urrciil  ami  did  >  <\  (mt-  !•     md.  ■',  ■■  it  \l'irr 

dlK'  dl'lilicnil  loll    AC  di  i   de  l  ;  ■  j)l,ln    lu  fnrd 

was  a  short  distaiH'c  .ilxiw  i'  uii'lion  .  ,,  tiil»iii.'  . 
fnnii  the  Miller  >idi'  .iiid  •-itc  a  ^^lMdl.;lI•  wliidi  di- 
\idrd  till'  n  '  V  .li;  ,1  .Dvc  Itif  ^aiidli.ir  I'l'  idT- 
>\vfjit  iiroiiiid  ;i  inr\i    ■■    ilr  '    "!.. ui.  !,  m  ui  v 

rocks.  Mr.  Ilijnliar!  iomiii^  .im.  :i  'jMiMini-, 
hiailcd  the  I'  »»\.  pots  and  .-.iiitilrii'-  ku  th'  h-T-c  and 
t-tarfi'd  idV.  ininii'  ■  |n  ii!;i\i  ii  inm  trip  Tor  ii"'  .iim' 
the  I  idiii-'.  lie  Icij  iiii.  I,,  ,i.  ni--  ili,-  :ir--  p.nl  <>( 
the  rjVL'r,  wJiii  !■  uas  ahoiit  I  I'-.  p.  lii-  ,  liim 

pi,  and  Itoth  >vvaoi  over.  It  lisi-!  Iicirmi  to  rain,  and 
^lr.  llijiihart  dii\<:rr!  ^A '  Ir  !i,  niiln.i>:,'d  ilic  animal's 
liiirdi'ii  K'  Mir  iilu  r  y\r,-  iii'>iiini  (I  and  vrlnniiM'  I'm  mi'. 
\\i>  ttriii  iliaiii  rcd  a>  he  tied  Mic  hlankt't-  to  liu'  hack 
of  the  sa(Mh'  and  I  inouiitcd.  As  I  carri(>d  fonsi<!crahK' 
wciulil  in  ni\  j.'o\\  n.  altout  Irn  pound-  of  -il\rr.  mir  mn 
iTvidvcr-.  liii'  tr'<  Mopc.  mir  -ihrr-liiird  Isdiii'm  lia-in> 
iind  diT  .-toil.in;^-  )i.r  us  hoth.  Mr.  Wijnhart  canlioiK'd 
iiH'  not  to  Tall  off,  foi  with  such  inipt'diinonta  obout 
me  he  ("uild  do  imi'  mi;;  t  >  -av(>  lur.  Takin^j  tlie  loiijj 
ropi'  III  lii>  hand  .iiid  liMdin.:  the  linr>c  a-  far  up  tin- 
man'.iiar  as  !ic  could  wiihiiut  swinmiin^',  lie  then  let 
p>  and  stoo<  lo  watch  us.  The  current  cau^rht  the  ro])e 
and  swept  it  down;  the  hor.>ie,  thinking  he  was  beino; 
I'd.  til!  "d  lii^  iiead  and  l)e;;an  to  swim  down  tiie 
»-lrcaiii.  .M.v  hiishand  called  to  me  to  pull  the  rijjht  ri'in. 
which  1  had  done  instinctivi  ly.  The  !ior-e  turned 
suddenly,  the  rushing  water  caught  underneath  llie 


306 


W  ITH  TiiK  Tir.LTANS 


bfiddiiig  and  swopt  nu\  .skMK'  uikI  all.  aliiii)>t  into  llie 
rivor.  liL'aliziiij^  my  juTil  1  threw  iiiv-rli'  over  to  lliu 
(ipiwjf-itc  .■iide,  and  i^o  lian^nag  on  to  the  horse's  niaue 
with  my  weight  iii  the  right  stirrup,  by  sheer  force  I 
kept  the  whole  bahmced  and  reached  the  bank  in  safety. 
The  old  hor.-e.  tired  out,  ^;  t  down  in  the  stream,  not 
being  abii'  to  ^teii  up  on  tlie  bank;  so  1  dismounted  iii 
tlie  water.  Ahiiost  everytliing  was  saturated.  Mr. 
llijnhart  plunged  again  into  the  current  and  crossed 
successful  I V,  though  cliilied  tlirongh  from  the  iey 
water.  Now  tliat  all  our  gurnients  had  got  wet  we  were 
iu  sore  straits.  Owing  to  the  rain  it  was  with  ditliculty 
we  secured  suthcicnt  fuel  to  prepare  some  hot  soup, 
and  as  soon  as  the  shower  passed  off,  after  spreading  our 
lilankets  iiut  to  dry,  we  roamed  some  distaiue  away  in 
search  of  larger  (pianlitio  of  fuel.  Suddenly  we  dis- 
eovcred  the  fresh  footprints  of  three  horses  and  a  dog. 
Were  they  tr^ue^  of  our  guides  and  Topsy?  On  what 
sleiuler  threads  the  drooping  heart  is  prepired  to  hang 
out  a  new  hope  I  Wet  and  cold  and  forsaken  as  we 
were,  a  tremor  of  joy  awoke  in  us  as  we  thought  of  the 
possibility  of  help  from  the  old  niamlia  and  the  two 
boys  who  had  left  us  on  the  dav  of  the  roM)ery.  Had 
we  misjudged  tiiem,  ami  were  they  still  faithful  to  us? 
We  tarried  the  night  and  divined  our  hope  was  a  vain 
one;  wo  must  therefore  press  on. 

The  morning  of  the  fn'ilowing  day  we  almost 
immediately  had  to  ero-.~  a  lril)Utary  of  the  Tsa 
t'iin,  not  a  large  stream.  l)Ut  the  bottom  was  cov- 
ered with  biff  stones,  and  the  curront  was  very 
strong.    Not  willing  to  have  any  more  delay  than 


OUR  LAST  DAYS  TOGETHER 


307 


was  necessary,  wo  manapod  to  wado  across  hand  in 
hand,  bul  had  gli  al  (hiih  iilty  to  hohl  ourselves  ereel 
airaiusl  the  tune  (d'  aliiiu^i  three  iVel  oT  water  and  the 
icudeney  tn  >lip  ua  ihe  unt'ven  stones  in  the  bod.  The 
c|uestion  of  river  crossing  had  become  harder  tlian  ever 
to  solve,  with  only  one  horse  and  not  a  single  native 
with  us,  and  we  tried  to  tliink  tliat  perhaps  we  would 
not  be  eonipeiied  to  eioss  any  more,  in  a  pretty  ravine 
we  found  a  deserted  eainp,  in  one  corner  of  which  we 
saw  three  stones  that  had  just  recently  served  as  a  fire- 
j»hiee.  and  a  .-mail  bit  of  paper  and  string  that  we 
jiidgi  d  I'ad  hehl  some  nieilieine  used  hy  the  itiaiitho  for 
ihe  wounded  boy's  arm.  Tiiis  was  the  last  trace  of  our 
guides  that  we  saw.  After  threading  our  way  through 
dales  and  over  iiiUocks  we  reached  a  level  plaeo  on 
the  river's  "-'dge,  wliere  were  remains  of  several  mud 
and  .-tune  range>,  indicating  a  tenting  gi  und ;  and  as 
there  was  good  grass  and  ahundance  of  fuel,  we  rested 
for  lunch.  Looking  about  carefully  we  saw  what  pre- 
n'lited  the  appearance  of  cattle,  and  upon  taking  the 
telescope  discovered  inunense  llocks  and  herds  and  tents 
away  down  the  river,  but  on  the  opposite  side!  Some 
rocks  obstructed  our  way  along  the  river's  edge,  neces- 
sitatii'g  prohalily  a  long  detour  over  tlie  hill-^  in 
order  to  progress  in  the  direction  of  tho-e  tents,  but 
how  welcome  the  sight  and  what  rejoicing  it  brought 
to  us!  It  seemed  as  if  our  difliculties  were  all  ended, 
:nid  feeling  no  fear  to  remain  alone,  hut  knowing  the 
hor>e"s  inability  to  s;uci>~fi!lly  ford  tlio  river  again, 
I  Would  have  Mr.  Ki  jidiart  cro.-s  tlien  and  there  and  go 
to  the  tents  for  aid,  leaving  jne  to  await  his  return. 


308 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


lio  looked  at  me  a  moment,  then  said :  "  Xo,  I  could 
not  leave  you  here  alone — travelers  may  come  along  and 
find  you,  and  you  aiv  a  woman.  \Vc  inu^t  stay  togetlier 
as  long  as  wc  can,  and  \vc  have  reached  a  place 

oppoiiitc  llie  tents  1  can  watch  you  while  1  am  gone." 

To  that  end  we  left  the  river  and  went  at  right 
angle?  to  it  owy  ^Ircp  Iiills.  one  ri>iiig  aliovf  another, 
but  each  one  hi(l<lcn  from  view  nntil  we  luul  gained 
tlie  crown  of  tlie  lirst,  and  {)as>iiig  some  magnilicent 
roclvs  we  reached  lao  basin  of  a  limpid  mountain  stream 
whicli  w    followed      Numerousi  tract-  of  lents  were 
found  in         -pol  hidden  among  the  hills,  an  admir- 
able place  for  rolilier  Itands  to  escape  detection  and  yet 
l)e  near  the  highway.    Large  flakes  of  snow  announced 
an  approaching  storm,  an.l  in  order  that  we  might 
uppea>e  irir  hnnger  before  ni^ht  came  on.  we  gathered 
fuel  in  til''  skirts  of  our  gowns  as  we  walked  along, 
a  practice  we  had  learned  from  the  natives.    At  dusk 
we  were  not  yet  out  of  the  ravine,  but  were  almost  at 
the  summit  from  which  the  rivulet  sprang,  and  tliere  W(> 
camped.    Was  it  the  ci)ming  disaster  that  weigiied  us 
down  and  cruslied  our  bright  spirits,  or  was  it  that  we 
were  in  a  glen  where  crime  had  left  its  stain?  An 
indescribable  feeling  of  uncanniness  seemed  to  seize 
us  liotii.  Sit  that  we  scarcely  s]ioke  alxive  a  whisper, 
while  we  selected  a  spot  near  an  old  lii'eiilace.  With 
our  one  staff,  some  pieces  of  string  and  two  jiegs,  we 
put  our  rubI)or  slieeting  up  for  >lieltiT.  a:  d  crept  be- 
neath it.    Kigbl  inches  of  ^now  fell  tiiiring  the  night, 
making  us  as  warm  as  when  in  well-heated  apartments; 
but  in  the  morning  it  was  almost  an  impossibility  to 


OUR  LAST  DAYS  TOGETHER  309 


creep  out  from  beneath  the  weight,  even  after  we  had 
.summoned  oourage  to  decide  that  we  wanted  to.  Tlie 
weather  looked  tlireatening  and  the  hulk  of  snow  wouUl 
tend  to  make  the  walking  hard,  besides  wetting  our 
Tibetan  boots  and  consequently  our  feet.  The  only 
dark  oljjcet  we  saw  far  or  near  was  a  large  brown  l)ear 
with  a  white  ring  aronnd  his  neck,  prowling  and 
shuffling  about  ju.«t  a  few  yards  from  us.  Our  pony 
was  the  first  to  stir.  He  had  idivady  l)ruslied  the  snow 
away  with  his  lips  in  order  lo  vcM-h  tlie  luscious  grass, 
and  at  last  we,  too,  with  a  desperate  effort  threw  off 
our  lethargy  and  with  it  our  l)lanketp,  and  crawled  out 
to  breakfast  on  tsamha  and  snow  With  fingers  biting 
and  ndiiug  from  the  cold,  we  fastened  on  the  horse's 
load,  Mr.  IJijiihart  sliouldi'ied  his,  and  off  we  started 
again,  bruin  watching  us  witli  perliajts  more  than 
friendly  interest.  5Iy  husband  left  mo  with  the  horse 
while  he  went  to  reconnoiter  a  little,  so  that  we  might 
not  unnecessarily  climb  hills,  and  hence  get  too  far 
away  from  the  river  bank.  He  found  tliat  we  hail 
passed  the  rocks,  so  we  walked  around  the  steep  slopes 
of  the  hills  until  we  were  overlooking  the  river  again; 
l)ut  the  walking  was  inconceivably  bad,  and  in  turns 
we  fell  on  the  slippery  snow  and  grass.  The  horse 
would  slip  and  struggle,  the  load  would  fall  off,  and 
then  with  cold  fingers  and  endless  trouble  the  saddle 
and  !!il  would  have  to  be  readjusted  and  tlie  whole 
start  be  made  again.  Finally,  wlien  high  up  among 
brushwood  on  the  side  of  a  very  steep  hill  above  the 
river,  the  horse  slipped  and  rolled  over  and  over  down 
the  hillside,  until  we  feared  lie  might  only  be  stayed 


310 


WITH  THE  TIBET AXS 


on  his  headlong  courpo  when  he  reached  the  water. 
When  ho  did  come  to  a  ^i(ii)  w(!  felt,  even  though  we 

wciv  not  much  lUMivr  the  tcnis  on  flir  ()])[)()sit('  bauk 
than  we  iiad  beta  the  luoniing  |)iv\ um.-.  we  could  not 
possibly  nianajjte  to  proceed  another  sti-p;  so,  scraping 
ilie  snow  away  from  a  little  piece  of  ground  more  level 
than  tlic  rcinainiiiu-  ]»art.  we  -a'  down  and  made  a 
lire  with  Minie  of  the  lJru^hwood  growing  in  the  lo- 
cality. 

Some  men  from  the  tents  were  within  hailing  dis- 
taiuc.  W'v  -hoiitcd  :  they  answered,  but  would  not  come 
near  enougli  to  hold  any  coin crvai ioi.  with  u<,  and  ran 
about  very  niiich  excited  on  ihc  lulls.  A  C'hinanian'.s 
curiosity  would  have  induced  him  to  come  near  enough 
to  find  out  at  least  who  we  were,  but  a  Tibetan's  is  not 
so  great. 

'I'lic  sun  shone  brightly,  and  the  snow  melted  (luickly, 
while  we  felt  that  it  was  too  late  in  the  afternoon  for 
Mr.  Hijnhart  to  attempt  to  go  on  foot  to  the  tents, 
as  at  iti;;iitrall  lie  would  not  have  bad  lime  to  return; 
so  he  iried  to  ford  the  river  on  our  horse,  but  it  was 
impossible.  Having  talked  of,  thought  about,  nd 
l)rayed  for  guidance  in  the  matter  of  reaching  the  tents, 
we  concluded  that  it  would  be  be~t  to  spend  the  night 
where  we  were,  and  that  in  the  morning  Mr.  Rijnhart 
would  swim  over,  hire  animals,  and  at  the  same  time 
find  out  our  whereabouts  in  reference  to  the  lamasery. 
How  sore  our  faces  were  that  night  from  the  sun  and 
snow,  and  bow  -even  ly  our  (>yes  smarted  I  .W'itbcr  of 
ns  having  any  lliou>;lii  of  the  impending  calamity,  we 
ro.>;e  on  'he  morning  of  September  2(5,  had  breakfast, 


oru  LAf^T  DAYS  TOGETIlRn  311 


and  my  luisband  prepared  for  departure.    Cutting  our 

nihbrr  -lici't iiitr  in  two,  lie  used  part  nf  il  to  wrap 
aljuiit  liis  dry  iiiulorwear.  jacket,  trousers,  a  ]»ieee  ol' 
silver,  live  ouiiees  in  weiglit,  some  kitatafi,  and  my  light 
revolver.  Binding  the  whole  tightly,  he  strapped  it  on 
liis  Ijaek  and,  taking  the  staff  in  Ids  hand  to  deal  witli  the 
(I(',l:s  wiuMi  lie  rciichi'il  lli-  tents,  started  away  cli.^cr- 
I'nily,  telling  nie  not  to  be  afraid,  but  to  use  lus  big 
revolver,  whieh  he  had  given  me  in  plaee  of  my  small 
one,  if  any  one  went  to  liarin  id'  .  lie  said  he  would 
return  lufore  dark,  if  possible;  but  if  not,  lie  would 
call  out  when  near  ine,  so  tiiat  I  would  not  be  fright- 
ened. When  a  few  steps  away  he  turned  to  wave  his 
hand  and  ^aid  la-ta."  Ueaehing  tlie  river's  edge  he 
threw  oil'  on  the  bank  liis  heavy  wadded  Ciiiiie-e  jaeket 
of  dark  blue  elotli,  and  entered  the  river.  Wading  half 
aeross.  he  put  out  his  arms  to  make  the  first  stroke,  hut 
suddenly  turned  around  and  walked  baek  again  to  the 
liaid<  where  he  had  flr>t  entered  tlie  water.  Shouting 
somethitig  up  to  nie  which  1  liiil  not  hear  on  account  of 
the  rushing  river,  he  walked  up-stream  in  the  opposUe 
direction  to  the  tents  ho  had  set  out  for.  Then  he  fol- 
lowed a  little  i)ath  around  the  roek^  that  had  ol)stnieted 
our  way  the  day  before,  until  out  of  sight,  and  /  never 
saw  him  again. 


rHAPTER  XXT 


i.osr  ANit  Ai.oNi: 

Wiiitiiif:  ami  Wat  chin::- — ('mivici  mn  of  Mi'.  KijiiliartV 
FatL' — Jfcl'ii^i'  AiiKiiig  Strang!'  'rihi'laius — Thoir 
Crui'l  'rrcntmont— The  Start  for  Jyekundo  for  Ofii- 
dal  Aid. 

To  swim  across  a  river  along  both  banks  of  which 
arc  nutiu'roiis  overhanging  clitts,  and  wliich  imrsues  a 
serpent iiir  CMiii-r,  i-  liv  no  means  easy,  for  the  current 
( 'irries  a  swimmer  duuu  sometimes  to  u  place  where  lie 
cannot  land.  When  .Mr.  Kijnliart  turned  and  wadod 
hack  to  the  place  at  which  he  had  entered,  I  hastily 
concluded  that  he  intended  to  make  another  trial  higlier 
lip,  where  tile  lamliii.:;  was  level  ami  ^ood  ;  for  opposite 
US  till  re  were  roeks  thai  were  iii  plaees  almost  a  com- 
plete harrier  to  his  getting  a  footing  on  shore.  I 
watched  for  liim  to  enter  the  water  again  beyond  the 
larire  rock  lieliiiul  wliicli  lie  had  (lisa])])ear('(l :  but  not 
>eeing  him  at  once  I  took  the  tclesiojje  and  walketl  a 
distance  down  the  hill,  so  that  my  range  of  vision 
should  command  the  bank.  To  my  frreat  .-nrprise  I 
.-aw  flocks  of  sheep  and  numbers  of  cattle  just  be- 
yond the  rocks,  on  the  same  suK'  of  the  river  that  1  was 
on,  and  only  a  short  distance  away,  almost  near  enough 

313 


LOST  AND  ALOXE 


513 


tor  mc  to  havo  thrown  n  stone  at  thoni.   I  kiu  w  then 
that  ^Ir.  Hi.jiihiirt.  uIumi  lie  turiicil  alimit  in  the  water 
-()  >ii(l(l('iil\ ,  liad  niiigiil  u  "flinipr-o  of  tlic-c  li-ul?  in 
our  vicinity,  and  had  hailed  the  sight  with  gladnesf, 
fooling  that  going  to  them  he  would  need  to  be  away 
from  nn'  only  a  sliort  tinu',  in  compari-on  with  tlial 
which  lie  wouhl   neLv,>:.>arily  occuity   in  crossing  the 
liver,  and  making  his  way  down  to  the  tents  he  had 
lirst  proposed  to  visit.    1  aho  was  much  pleased  at 
our  discovery,  for  1  expected  liini  back  perliaps  in  an 
liour  or  .-(•  witli  some  of  liie  nalives.  and  at  h'a-t  feh 
sure  tliat  he  woiihl  not  be  away  until  dark.  N'aried 
were  the  thoughts  that  passed  through  niy  mind,  for  in 
ray  imagination  I  saw  iiim  in  liis  clothing  wet  from 
wading  in  the  water,  as  lie  had  imt  waited  a  inoment 
to  aivest  himself  of  the  wet  garments,  nor  to  pick  up 
and  throw  about  him  his  warm  jacket  which  he  had 
left  on  the  bank ;  but  accompanying  that  came  a  scene 
beside  the  lires  of  llie  tent  wlu^re  he  was  pri)i)ahly  drink- 
ing steaming  tea,  while  he  explained  his  mission  to 
the  owners  of  those  sheep  and  cattle,  and  bargained 
with  them  for  animals.    A  thought  of  his  meeting 
with  trouMe  did  not  enter  niy  mind  until  the  hours 
sped  on  and  lie  came  not  ;  Imt  e\en  then  1  did  iu)t  fear, 
for  u  ■  iiail  always  been  treateil  with  the  greatest  kin<l- 
ness  and  hospitality  whenever  we  had  met  the  people 
at  their  homes,  although  it  is  understood  liy  all  tliat  th(> 
natives  nvo  roliliers  when  away  from  home.    He  hini>elf 
had  not  ihought  of  dilliculty,  I'l.r  he  did  not  wait  to 
remove  from  his  bundle  the  revolver  that  might  have 
had  a  moral  effect  over  the  tent  people;  but  went  around 


314 


WITH  THK  TIBETAN'S 


the  rock  hunumtly  ami  siiri'  that  I  wouhl  no  longer 
have  to  walk,  and  tluil        licavy  l)nnli  n  would  bo  car- 

l  icil  l)\  >tr<iiiL;  y.ik,  mid  dcudil  Ir-,-  ciili  rliiiiiiiiu'  llic 
ol'  bfinj;  able  lo       aid  rnun  tln'  alil»«H  n|  Tii-hi  (iuuiba 
in  tracing  onr  lo>t  liort.cs,  rcsullinj^  |»niia|i>  in  their 
recovery. 

Soon    the  went    ilown   over   the   top  of  tln' 

hill  on  uliiili  I  and  ibc  .-hadows  urcw  joniriT  and 
longer.  l''oiir  brars  gand)olcd  alioni  on  ibr  liilUide 
until  the  shade  fell  on  them  and  they  shuflled  away.  I 
prayed  for  strength  to  lie  (juiet,  f(»r  (lod  to  give  me 
i'reednni  rroin  anxietv  as  the  time  pa-.-ed  on  and  thi'i'e 
was  no  aj»|iearame  of  liim  for  wiiom  1  had  watched 
all  (lay.  The  rattle  and  the  sheep  across  the  river 
were  ronndeil  np  anil  dri\en  lionie  to  be  tethered  near 
ihe  tenls,  but.  Iie^ide.-  the  bears  and  mv  hor.-e.  i!iere 
was  not  a  sign  of  any  living  creature  on  the  same  bank 
where  I  was,  for  the  flocks  and  herds  towanls  wiu. 
my  lui.-.!)and  bad  gone  had  long  .since  disappeared. 

KnowiiiL;-  ih:it  ilie  Tibetans  are  sometimes  dilatorv 
and  hard  to  manage,  1  tried  to  tliink  that  the  tents 
were  some  distance  away,  that  the  natives  refused  to 
help  us  unless  my  husband  wouhl  remain  until  morn- 
ing, and  M»  I  eonso'ed  mvself  with  tlie  thought  that 
daylight  wonid  bring  liiin  to  me.  Reason  told  me  lie 
had  fallen  prey  to  wickecl  men,  but  I  would  not,  be- 
cause I  had  no  desire  to,  listen  to  it,  and  my  heart 
hoped  against  hope.  Dn^^^k  settled  into  darkness,  and 
a  desolate  solitmle  reigned  over  hill  and  vallev.  almost 
chilling  me  to  the  heart  as  I  sat  alone  in  the  stillness 
of  that  oriental  night.  limkcn  hy  no  sound  of  human 


iA)>v  AM)  ai.om: 


voicf,  willi  no  .••ym|mlliy  of  frieiulsi  to  fall  back  upon, 

not  cvrii  llic  (•()iii|iiilii()ii>lii|)  i>r  till'  fiiithriil  Topsv.  I 
llidiiglil  <il'  llu'  .-tiuiii  liotli  |iliy-u;il  mciiliil 

<(!'  Iiiiii  wild  had  gdiH'  M)  liu'i'i't'iilly  anmiHl  the  ruck  lliat 
(lay.  What  lie  iiiii^t  liavc  sulfiTctl  tlid  he  have  time  to 
think  of  hi.-  wilV  alniic  .iiul  ii:  daiij^fr  I  1  knew  that, 
iinh'>s  ill'  luid   liujic^  of  nil'   liiin>tli'.  cvcrv 

tliuu«^ht  \\ii>  a  priiyiT  liiat  liis  loMujf  hathcr  wuuid 
ti'inlerly  care  for  I  lie  •me  alone  on  the  hillside.  I 
tied  niy  horse  aniuiiu  ihr  lni^ln  -  ami  lay  ilnun,  more  for 
|init('rtioM  fi-uiii  the  (iild  ihaii  rmin  aii\  dcvirr  In  >\vv\>, 
and  .-iicnl  a  4UU'l,  pcaci  ful,  tlinu-li  sliiiiilH'rle.-<s  iii<,'hi, 
in  a  mmid  not  to  \h\  surprised  if  the  sound  of  that 
precious  voice  raiij;-  out  my  n  iiiic  throu;,di  the  deathlv 
.lilliir,--,  rcniciiilicri ir:  wlial  li.'  had  >aid  i'IkhiI  caliiiiLr 
lo  Mir  li'  lie  .--hould  rcliini  alter  dark — hut  in  \aiii. 
Morning  came,  and  with  it  1  rose  to  use  the  tcic:-co|ic 
once  more,  and  wait  for  the  hojwd  and  longed  for  re- 
turn nf  my  liii>haiiil.  Tlic  cattle  and  .-liei'i)  >prt'ad  out 
over  the  \u\\>  aer.i>-  llie  river,  and  all  iiaiure  ha-ked  in 
the  sunshine,  hut  as  the  hours  (d'  tlie  second  day  sped 
on  and  no  trace  of  him  was  seen,  my  heart  almost  ceased 
heating.  Well  it  \va>  that  we  had  learned  to  trust  God 
in  hai'd  and  dillicull  places.  "A  '  at  else  supported  nie 
Ihrougli  the  leadt'H  hours  (>(  that  day  but  the  thought 
that  I  was  in  God's  hands? 

" ''I  Inff  before,  nothing  behind, 

Th(>  stfjis  of  faitli 
FpII  on  till'  seeming  void,  and  tiiid 
The  rock  beneath." 

Hut  I  must  admit  it  was  a  faith  amidst  a  darkness 


W  ITU  TIIF.  TIBKTAN'S 


so  thick  ami  Idiick  tliiit  I  tnulil  not  n  ]»y  il,  .-un- 
fchino.  Kvriim.L'  riniml  nic  -till  iiloiic  wiili  (,m1.  jui*t 
n     I  licfii    ii.'  i:''-''it  i»c!"'»iv.     My  1  ,1.  'im'!  r.Mr 

liii''  'ctl  itM  •  iir  allIlo^t  a  (.•nam  a.  iii.tr  jm 
M  All  H  i  i  »'ly  any  nf  cvfi-  >  ,  itij;  my   I  tinl 

Hill  Willi  jii-t  a.s  liiilf.  prultaliiv.  of  m;; 

v,,i     'V'fi  the  -aiif  uliu          s(   .niii;,'l\  mnr- 

{]■■■■'  im!  i    'riM  .  I  inii-i  cuiir  .il  111)  (Ic  ir 

■  i\L'  lii.il  hill,  'i'iu  ic  .\ li  t  "11  til.  tlir  I'  its  iM'yoiitl 
tliofo  ror!  «  !  1  i.iit'_'i  (i  I  >  tlic  ri)iilK'r.-i  vim  li^  .  stou'ii  o\ir 
hor.-i  ■      1  11      "  I  nil  .  ami  1     un  ! iii!''<l  also  ibal 

ulicii  .Mr.  liiji  '-ii  >iiiM<'iily  cmii  mI'.  !i.  ir  pn'-i'iicc 
llit'V  limii^iit        hail      nil-  1'  lor  .      ami  uouid 

acciisf  them  i  ■  llii  ir  ihi- f  mis  i.iiisjn!,'  tlu"  lor-s  of 
(he  jio()(l.«  •!..\  hail:    inl  a    .|i|  Irniiljic.  th-y  Iiad 

-liol  liirn  aii-l  'hrov  ii  !.is  1 'nl,  ;  .to  he  r.  >  iic 
(lays'  jouriifV  from  th'K  ih-'  tr.  'Itral'  ■  Iravc'i-r 
Dutrcuil  dc  \ih  -  had  i."  n  ki  Cd  111  ISlt'-  and  titr 
Tilwt.iiis  had  tiirov  hi-  l>  U  iiiio  the  river,  1);  •  worr 
foinpclU'd  to  ji  '  I  nlv  f  it  in  ilvi-r.  a"d  : 
had  h('(>n  Ix'hc.  rd  f.ir  Uio  i-ritiu'.  'I'li.-  \\  a 
Kiiown  to  Ml'  r  I'll  ni-ar  u-.  and  if  I  a-'  orr  <  t 
.  nrmiso  that  (I  ><•  re  the  rohlxTs.  m\  • 
less  hn.-^h.iiid  liad  ■  a  jirry    •>  '  • 

i'car.    M.  (ironard,  who    as  Itiii; 
roinKje  on  the  rxpcdili  n  on  wliic  ii  I  : 
killed,  as  ^   -n  as  lie  hf.r  I  of  Mr.  Riinl         u  .ij^ 
anco.  wrnti-  that  tho  tr     ^  ir  ■'    ^ic;'  t         re  wi 
111"!  our  troiihl"  'viTC  "  •    ii        Im-t  had 
rcfii.-infi  (•>   .11  I'  -ni       .'  n  :  ■■von  It  r        ••    um-  < 
liionev — and  Mi—   ^        '!':!v!nr  yiM  a-    t-ij  b*-: 


11; 


l.uST  AM)  ALoN  k; 


317 


Tlu 

.  it 

1. 

f. 

'iii; 

.ll . 

:in<i 

h 

md  i; 

1(1)1 

'  i  i  . 

'        '■ I'v  tli«'  |M  ')j)|,.  of  Tils  li  (Hinibu.  These 
a<lu  \\c\g\a  to  wliut  I  ni^-i  lf  had  thought 

1   1  V  iiuako  na'  'liiiL^  the  s(arH 
iovonslv    meditating  a      \>ni\mi;  for 

ituro,  and  asking  God  not 

■lii'l  inakf  iiii-takrs.  Oh!  if  I 

i  r.  K'ijiiliart  !    M.  ;r  ,.,1,^^^ 

of  til.'  iniponctral)  iliculty, 

I  •  ift  stay  on  an  .vait  in- 

'  <■        ■     Aiiuut  ten  1, clock  [ 
-'■ap       !li  (lie  tcicxM  j)(.,  uhcti 
I'd  a  >ii<(ul  froh,  .tchiiid  nic  on  tlic 
'  lpd  with  dolight  under  ih    impulse  of 

.'■nt,  for  I  (oiuliidrd  it   was  the  voice  I  so 
r,  and  tliat  the  yak  I  sav  u.      sonic  he 
Hii'     irni  1  >  help  us.    Tlii'n  f-.rc  1  \va  '  more 

di      lointed  to  see  that  they  i..  loniri.d  it,  ,as  and 

rmeti  Tihctaiis  coming  from  ihc  Urec- 

I  tUtii  to  thcin.  and  as  t!ii'  lai  .  lown 

II  went  uj)  towards  thcin,  and  wi  n  fo 
■i'  while  their  comrades  went  on  with    .   u  yui^. 

lc!   the  UMial  eivilitieri  had  been  exchanged  they 
ked  iiu>  will  .1'  iiiv  liiisliaiiil  was,  and  I  replied  that 
le  had  gone  to  .some  tentri  and  had  as  yet  not  returned. 
They  inquired  if  I  were  not  afraid  to  stay  alour:  and 
for  answer  I  showed  tht  ;-  my  revolver,  explaining  tli;  t 
luld  easily  fire  six  shots  from  it  before  a  na!  ■ 
-uld  fire  one  from  his  gnn,  and  that  each  '  'diet  coiii  l 
go  through  three  men  ;  wherenpon  they  remarkcil  to 
each  other  that  no  one  had  better  tr;'  to  harm  me,  as  I 


318 


WITH  THE  TIBKTANS 


could  wound  eighteen  men  before  I  could  lie  louclifd. 
They  wore  travfliiitr.  they  siiid,  to  ;i  place  three  days' 
journey  away,  and  as  they  wiTe  apparently  friendly,  ' 
at  iirst  thought  of  journeying  with  them  in  the  hope 
of  enlisting  their  lielp,  hut  gaie  that  up  as  impossible. 
Then  I  a^ki-d  them  to  take  me  across  the  river  on 
their  vak,  and  in  answer  tl'.cy  iiic|uircd  if  1  liad  money. 
I  .-aid  yes,  1  would  pay  them  wrll  i\)r  it.  They  jumped 
up,  and,  saying  they  would  go  for  the  yak,  ran  up  the 
hill  and  out  of  si^dit  in  the  d;rection  of  the  tents  to 
wliieh  niy  husband  had  ;;one. 

1  waited  in  tlie  same  place  all  that  day,  but 
there  was  no  sign  of  Mr.  Kijnhart,  nor  did  the 
men  return  when  the  sun  had  gone  down.  1  felt 
that  mv  lit'e  would  not  be  worth  anything  if  1  re- 
mained there  all  night,  and  that  1  must  get  away 
from  that  place;  but  whither  1  was  lo  go  1  did  not 
know.  I  tried  to  cross  the  river  on  my  horse,  but  he 
rtonld  not  venture  into  the  water.  Then  1  dragirei! 
him  n|)  the  liil'.  sat  down  once  moi'e  and  reviewed  the 
situation,  when  the  thought  lame:  "Whyl  1  can 
never  get  away  from  here  safely  anyway.  I  will  never 
be  able  to  get  out  of  the  eouiitiy.  I  am  so  far  from  the 
border:  1  may  as  well  be  killed  lir-t  as  last,  and  so 
I  will  go  where  my  precious  husl)and  has  gone."  And 
once  more  I  pulled  my  horsse  down  the  hill  intending 
to  go  around  the  rock.  Rut  I  was  not  to  go.  Tlie  im- 
press!.>n  grew  upon  me  that  it  was  rash  to  ru-b  into 
almost  certain  death,  and  thus  neither  lie  any  help  to 
my  husband,  nor  leave  any  trace  of  the  three  of  us  who 
had  left  Tankar  in  such  good  spirits,  thereby  bringing 


LOsiT  ASD  ALU-NE 


319 


uutold  borrow  and  suspense  to  our  home  friends.  Then 
there  was  tlie  tliouijlit  uf  future  wurk.    Had  wo  not  butli 
consecrated  ourselves  to  the  evaiigflix.atiou  of  Tibet, 
and  now  that  my  tkar  iiu^band  had  fallen,  was  the 
work  and  its  responsibility  any  the  less  mine?  Eventu- 
ally 1  walkrd  along  tlit.'  river  down  stream  toward  the 
tents  .Mr.  IJijiihart  had  iir.-l  in  view,  'vith  ^  Htroiv 
dc-ire  to  get  help  to  take  me  to  the  lamasery  or  to  the 
chief  of  the  tribe,  but  with  a  vague  feeling  of  unrest 
and  of  doubt  as  to  what  would  happen.    On  reaching 
the  rivurV  edge  oiipo>iic'  tiio^c  tt'iit-  1  callcMl  so  loudly 
to  the  i)eople  that  a  man  and  a  boy  came  to  tlie  nearest 
pbsce  to  me,  so  I  asked  them  to  come  over  the  river 
w.Ji  two  yak,  holding  up  a  khata;  but  that  was  not 
(•!ioii<,di  to  tell!"'  tiieiii,  so  I  showed  a  piece  of  silver 
which  i  would  give  them  for  taking'  mc  across  the 
river,  and  they  ran  away  to  n  turn  with  two  yak  upon 
one  of  which  there  was  a  pack  saddle.    1  was  amazed 
to  sec  tht'iu  drive  the  licnr  looking  brutes  into  the 
water  witli  sloius  and  shout.-.    1  >aw  that  they  expected 
me  to  catch  tliciii,  j)ut  my  bedding  on  one,  saddle  and 
mount  the  other,  a  task  that  was  utterly  impossible, 
for  I  had  no  experience  witli  lhc.~c  strange  wild  burden- 
bearers — all  my  life,  in  fact.  1  had  h(>','!i  |)ossrsscd  of 
an  inordinate  fear  even  of  domestic  cattle.    1  shouted 
over  that  if  a  man  did  not  come  with  the  yak  they 
need  not  send  tlui  i.  as  I  could  not  manage  them;  then 
they  stopped  tlirowing  stones  and  the  two  unwicldly 
creatures  returned  to  their  homes,  while  the  man  said 
I  could  stay  where  I  was.    I  made  ready  to  spend  the 
night  there,  directly  across  from  those  tents,  feeling 


320 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


a  little  more  secure  when  I  was  so  near  people  whom 
I  did  not  know  wvw  trcaduTou.-.  so  I  partook  of  <oine 
tsuinbii  and  cold  water,  Uvd  luy  horse  where  lie  could 
eaifily  be  watched,  and  lay  down  on  the  snow,  it 
snow-ed  nearly  all  night,  and  it  was  difficult  to  be  peace- 
ful. How  would  it  all  end?  Would  tlir  people  help 
me  hi  ihe  :norning'r  These  were  only  a  IVw  of  llie 
many  dis(iuieting  thought!-  that  swayed  through  luy 
mind,  while  d  down  in  my  heart  a  voice  whispered, 
"Be  still,  sad  ht-art,  and  lean  upon  thy  God,  who 
knoweth  the  end  fmm  the  bc^nnning." 

When  morning  dawned  1  called  again,  and  was  glad  lu 
see  several  women  and  children  come  to  the  water's  edge, 
for  I  thought  1  could  manage  them  better  than  1  could 
the  men.  I  soon  saw  that  they  would  do  notliing  for  nn- 
until  I  had  proved  that  uiy  horse  would  not  take  me 
across,  so  1  put  my  bedding  on  him  and  mounted. 
The  women  shouted,  threw  stones,  and  waved  their 
hands,  while  I  did  my  bc.-t  to  j^T.-uade  him  to  cross, 
but  he  knew  Iiis  weakness  better  than  we  did  and  not 
one  step  would  he  take,  so  Aclii  called  out  for  me  to 
dismount,  which  I  did.  I  then  asked  what  they  would 
do  for  mc.  Finally  a  lama  said  if  I  would  wait  a 
while  he  wounl  ;:o  to  some  tents  near  by  and  bring  a 
horse  over,  ami  1  could  then  cross  in  safety.  About 
ten  o'clock  a  man  and  six  yak  came  over  for  me.  The 
Tibetan  was  Mil)niitte(l  to  a  careful  scrutiny,  for  on  him 
so  much  depeniled,  and  I  saw  a  man  with  a  dirty  face, 
ragged  hair  and  clothing,  but  there  was  an  expression 
in  his  eyes  that  made  me  tru.st  him.  He  tied  my  horse 
to  one  of  the  yak,  put  my  things  on  another  and  ray 


LOST  AND  ALOXE 


321 


saddlo  on  a  third.    He  then  gave  me  his  own  and  my 
riding  animals  to  liold  bv  tlii-  rope  through  their  noses, 
while  he  drove  tlu-  other  I'our  into  the  water,  amid 
the  clamor  of  a  large  party  of  onlookers  on  the  bank 
opposite.    My  horse  at  first  refused  to  go,  but  at  last 
launched  forth  and  dragged  the  yak  to  which  he  was 
tied  down  tile  river  s..  far  tliat  all  feared  thvy  would 
both  be  io^t,  though  they  did  succeed  in  l.Miding  far 
down  the  stream.    I  felt  anything  but  comfortaM.'  iu 
this,  my  first,  attempt  at  riding  the  yak,  especially  to 
cross  such  a  large  river,  but  there  was  nothing  ei  e  to 
do;  so  while  niy  rough-looking  guide  held  the  hiii:' 
black  ox  by  the  horns  i  mounted,  and  then  my  com- 
panion mounted  his.   Having  no  bridle,  I  had  expected 
my  guide  to  lead  mine  by  the  rope,  but  the  two  black, 
I'ulky  animals  plunged  awkuanlly  into  the  water,  and 
i  eluiig  convulsively  to  the  saddle,  with  ditliculty  keep- 
ing my  balance,  while  we  swayed  with  the  motion  of  the 
animal  swimming,  and  the  current  which  was  very 
-trong.    Wh»>n  we  arrived  on  the  other  side,  all  wet, 
for  oxen  swim  lower  in  the  water  than  hrr.'es,  I  ex- 
pected to  go  into  the  tent,  change  my  wet  garments, 
;iiid  warm  myself  before  a  genial  fire;  but  no,  the  Tibe- 
tans had  other  plans,  and  I  felt  it  should  be  my  first 
iiim  to  make  an  agreeable  •nipre,--sion  on  these  p<'ople. 
Amidst  such  remarks  as,  -  She  is  not  Chinese,  she  is 
a  foreigner,"  they  opened  up  every  thing  I  had  with 
and  thankful  I  was  that  there  was  nothing  among 
the  things  that  couM  arouse  llieir  suspicion  except  the 
revolver,  of  which  they  had  an  intense  fear.    One  man 
plunged  his  dirty  hand  into  the  bottom  of  mv  bamba 


322 


WITH  TIIKTIHKTANS 


bag  to  see  if  there  were  anything  ?ecretod  there,  and 
found  a  dessert  spoon  which  1  isiwv  llio  one  who  had 
brou-1  !  tnc  over  he  river,  ihv  silver  and  klialu  having 
lieon  taken  possession  of  by  a  man,  whom  I  aiterwards 
learned  was  a  doctor.  When  the  inspection  was  con- 
eluded  1  then  took  one  of  the  women  by  the  hand  and 
Usiked  lier  to  (  oine  into  the  tent  with  ine.  a,-  I  wa-^  shiv- 
ering with  the  eo'.J,  for  1  iiad  on  my  wet  garment.-,  and 
the  groun<l  was  eovered  with  snow.  One  of  the  men 
pointed  to  a  spot  in  the  open  a  little  distance  from  the 

ts.  am!  said  I  could  put  my  things  thrre  ami 
1  hrnilv  held  to  my  purpose  of  not  sleeping  out-of- 
doors  if  1  could  in  any  way  help  it.  and  besought  them 
to  let  me  have  a  common  tent,  or  put  up  a  little  shelter 
for  me,  and  finally  they  led  me  to  the  entrance  of  a 
narrow  cav<'  wheie  a  siek  cow  was  lying,  and,  driving 
the  cow  out,  they  allowed  me  to  put  my  things  there 
and  stay.  I  ([uit  kiy  availed  myself  of  the  pheltcr.  and 
was  soon  comfortable  in  dry  garment^,  sijiping  hot  tea. 
the  first  1  had  liad  'or  three  days.  1  thou-ht  1  had 
never  ta>ted  anything  so  delicious  in  my  life  before  as 
that  'ril)etan  tea,  for  hunger  and  cold  are  efficient  ap- 
lK>tizers.  My  efforts  to  conciliate  these  ^K^ople  were 
eminently  sm-ees>ful.  and  we  were  soon  on  the  best  of 
terms,  chatting  freely,  Imi  deep  in  my  heart  lurked  the 
awful  fear  of  my  husljand's  fate,  and  despair  of  getting 
aid.  They  told  mo  that  the  lamasery  of  Ta>hi  Comba 
was  two  day>"  jouriu>y  away;  the  abliot  had  been  lie- 
l.eaded.  and  all  the  jteeple  were  fighting,  so  nothing 
would  induce  the  men  to  go  with  me  there,  and  the 
chief  of  the  tribe  was  three  days'  journey  distant,  so 


LOST  AXD  ALONE 


323 


that  I  could  not  find  my  way  to  him.   Though  I  did 

not  tell  them  what  I  thoii-lit  had  happened  to  my  hus- 
liand,  they  Mispcrled  thai  there  ua.s  s^oniething  amiss, 
and  they  know  I  had  been  roblwd,  also  that  1  cuiiUl  not 
have  come  there  alone;  so  they  would  not  aid  me  to 
loac-h  any  person  of  aiitliority,  liccauso  they  mi^^lit  thiMi 
lie  interle-Mig  in  their  neighbors'  escapades,  thereiiy 
making  of  jieir  nearest  tcnt-dwoUers  lifelong  enemies. 
One  Tibetan  will  not  openly  betray  another,  but  some- 
times very  secret ly  for  a  lar-e  sum  of  money  he  will 
tell  tile  owner  of  iiorses  tliat  have  been  stolen  at  whose 
tent  the  latter  may  be  found;  fnit  the  fact  that  the  in- 
I'ormation  lias  ix'en  given  him  by  anotlier  is  never  to 
i>e  made  i<nown.  Tiot  even  to  the  chief,    'i'his  was  the 
-ecret  of  till'  Tibetans  in  that  locality  not  helping  me, 
!'  >r  if  they  had  it  would  have  spoiled  their  lives.  They 
lobl  me  tliat  .Jyeknnilo.  a  good-sized  town,  conld  be 
reached  in  ten  days  by  luir-clwick  and  in  iifteen  by  yak. 
As  a  Chinese  ollicial  is  stationed  at  Jyekundo  1  prepared 
to  go  there  to  meet  him.    1  knew  he  could  send  letters 
lo  Ta-chien-In  for  me,  and  could  .ilx)  send  M)hiiers  back 
uilii  me  to  find  out  what  liad  iiajipened  to  .Mr.  Rijn- 
liart.   But  the  natives  refused  to  go  all  tiie  way,  and 
asked  so  much  money  to  go  five  days  witli  me  that  we 
■  '  uhl  not  come  to  terms,  so  I  remained  four  days  in 
that  kittle  cave. 

At  night  the  sick  cow  lay  outside  and  ground 
Iicr  teeth,  while  I  put  my  saddle  and  traps  in 
the  cntrimce  to  prevent  lier  walking  in  upon  me.  The 
iueii  a.id  women  visited  me  freely,  bringing  me  butter 
and  meat  for  sale,  and  always  wanting  the  same  things 
in  exchange,  viz.:  the  green  stones  that  are  used  so 


324 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


j)ro£us<.'ly  to  decorate  Iieaddres^es.  I  went  the  after- 
noon (.r  till  ii>i  dii\  lo  .1  -[Hit  on  the  river  across 
I'roiii  tile  plan  ulierc  1  li;;d  i\i>>~r  diiv-  \vaitin<^  and 
v\ailiiiy.  llow  ad  1  i-ii  wii'  ii  1  ...  .  uii  liie  Ijauk,  jiisl 
wiiere  lie  li.id  kit  ii.  .u^ijaiid^  \va<lded  jacket. 

'J'iie  lliird  daj  iv.o  lama.-  on  .i'Th'Uk:..  and  1  on  a  }ak, 
v.ciil  ;iuain,  '  I'  li'irr  ^  icro.-.-  iiir  risci'  In  get 
liir  iiial   1   iuni  IriL  ill' i  ,  lieiau.-e  1  was  not 

able  to  take  them  all  when  I  hail  gone  towards  the 
ti'iit.-.  I  watched  iheni  ihi-migh  ili<'  irloMi'pt,  and  my 
heart  .-,ank  when  1  ^aw  all  lia:  iliiiig-  iii  tin'  .-aiii'  c  ; 
dition  III  wlueh  1  had  Kit  iIkih,  lor  J  knew  no  on. 
had  been  near  the  place,  and  my  last  atom  of  hoin;  for 
I  III'  riinrn  of  the  ali.-enl  ua-  gone.  With  a  weary 
iieai't  1  urged  the  nu'ii  to  .-tart  on  the  live  day>"  journey 
toward  Jyekiindu,  hut  they  were  .-low  in  ]lronll^lng  to 
leave.  Finally,  from  some  superstition  or  fear,  thoy  did 
nut  wi>h  to  have  ine  near  their  tent.«  any  longer,  jier- 
haps  because  they  ihoisglil  1  might  bring  harm  to  them, 
so  we  soon  came  to  terms  and  started  away.  Almost 
everything  1  had,  they  managed  with  great  sleight-ol'- 
hand  to  >teal  I'loni  nie,  and  il  was  only  u|ion  niy  refusal 
to  go  without  my  own  hriilie.  whii  h  was  a  good  one,  that 
it  was  fortheoming.  I  also  demanded  a  wadded  gar- 
iiHiil  that  woiihl  he  sadly  needed  in  tin'  e(dil.  A  man 
had  liidden  il  under  a  .-((Jiie.  but  brought  ii  out  wht  i 
1  told  tile  woman  1  must  have  il.  Leaving  the  phiee 
where  my  haliv  was  buried,  and  setting  out  alone  with 
ihe.-e  Tibelaii-  from  the  K^'ality  where  1  had  lost  my 
hii>hand,  -lam!  out  pnuniiiently  a-  the  two  events  in 
my  life  that  have  called  forth  the  gn.;iii'.-l  ell'ort,  ac- 
companied by  s(irro\v  too  <leep  for  expression. 


CHAPTER  XXII 


WICKED  TIBETAN  GUIDES 

The  Apa  and  the  Murder  of  Dutreuil  de  Rhins — Con- 
ference with  a  Chief — New  Guide.s  Treacherous  and 
Corrupt— The  Xiglit  Camp  in  the  Marsh — We  Are 
Taken  for  I{nl)lx'rs — A  l.ama.sery  Fair. 

The  district  along  tliat  portion  of  the  Tsa  Cliu  where 
Mr.  Rijnhart  (li.-apjicared  is  called  Ga-Je,  and  is  gov- 
erned by  native  chiefs  under  the  jurisdiction  of  the 
Amban  at  Siiiing,  whose  nearest  representative  is  the 
Cliinese  ollicial  at  .lyekundo;  so  that  tliough  the  neces- 
sity of  traveling  towards  the  latter  was  painful,  my 
heart  was  full  of  hope  that  I  might  there  enlist  help, 
accuse  the  guilty,  and  perhaps  be  aide  to  return  with 
soldiers.  The  tlin-c  men  whom  I  liad  engaged  to  ac- 
company me  five  days'  journey  with  yak  were  to  receive 
ten  ounces  of  silver  besides  a  valuable  garment,  and 
they  were  to  arrange  with  other  men  to  take  me  an- 
other five  day^'  joiirncv  towards  my  goal.  The  oldest 
man  was  about  lift\,  iiad  almost  grev  hair,  was  very 
dirty,  but  his  manner  was  so  full  of  simple  dignity  and 
kindness  that  I  felt  attracted  to  him,  and  called  him 
fipa.  a  title  which  pleased  bim  very  mucli.  One  of  his 
companions  was  the  man  who  had  brought  me  across 

325 


32G 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


the  rivor,  and  though  he  ate  raw  meat  with  such  keen 
enjoyment  as  to  remind  me  of  cannibalism,  ami  killed 
a  small  animal  his  dog  luul  drivLii  froin  its  slaltcr,  l>y 
battering  its  bead  against  a  stone,  1  did  not  I'car  him. 
About  ilie  tluitl  iboio  was  nothing  unusual  except  that 
it  was  he  who  always  held  communication  with  new- 
comers, and  bargained  when  such  was  necessary.  Thov 
eacli  had  a  swdnl  t)ut  no  spear;  only  one  carried  a  gun, 
while  all  tliree  walked,  driving  along  three  yak,  one 
with  my  things,  one  for  me  to  ride,  and  the  other  to 
carry  their  food,  which  consisted  almost  entirely  of 
meat,  with  a  very  little  butter  and  tsai.iba.    My  horse 
was  led  by  one  of  the  guitles,  and  must  have  rejoiceil 
in  his  freedom  from  even  a  saddle,  after  his  journey 
of  so  many  months.   The  evening  l)el"ore  we  started  on 
our  five  days'  journey  we  went  a  >lii>rf  distam.  through 
!iie  bills  to  s(mie  tents  belonging  to  relatives  of  the 
guides.    The  three  men  slept  inside  the  tents,  while  I 
remained  out-of-doors  on  the  edge  of  a  hill,  where  tliey 
made  a  good  fire  for  me,  jjrocuring  from  the  tents  fuel 
enough  to  burn  the  greater  part  of  the  niglit.    Not  oa(e 
again  was  I  ever  allowed  to  en.er  a  tent,  or  the  living 
room  after  1  had  reached  the  agricultural  districts, 
where  the  neo]ile  oerupv  houses  made  of  stone;  for  the 
natives  have,  be.  i'lc-  their  superstition  and  prejudices 
agaii!>t  all  foreigners,  a  i)eeuliar  custom  wliich  dt»es 
not  permit  women  other  than  those  of  the  family  to 
enter  the  homo.    These  three  guide;;  in  their  owTi  way 
were  exeeedinL'Iv  kind  to  me.  iimi  flu    ---li  I  could  not 
trust  them  implicitly,  my  mind  was  comparatively  free 
from  fear. 


WlCKKl)  TiliHTAX  (il  lDKS 


The  ynk  I  first  rode  was  untrained  f<»r  riding  pur- 

:i<).-c-  mill,  tliiiii;.'li  li'il  liv  dill'  III'  iiii'  nil  ii,  iiuulf  >ucli 
-ii'l'iiii  liir(!if>  down  the  Inll  tluil  tunc  the  .-addio 
luniL'd  aiut  1  violently  lliiuwii  (dV,  fortunately,  to- 
wards the  aticent  and  not  downward.-* ;  but,  al'ti-r  tlie 
second  fall,  I  insisted  on  lia\inj;  ,i  hirger,  thoMi,'li  more 
'|iii<'t.  Miiniiii.  tind  found  him  inueli  lu  lter.  M  ^uide< 
.-neieeded  in  trading  my  jaded  lior>e  for  a  liv.-ii  one, 
and  when  the  owner  of  the  hitter  came  to  conii»leto  tlie 
<lea!  iie  iiajipeihi!  lu  spy  my  lar-l  towel,  and  nothing 
Would  do  Imt  i  iini-l  uive  !•  iii  that — not  that  hi-  wonld 
Um'  it  niudi,  Ijiit  lie  coveted  it,  iiid  !  eould  not  lind  any 
8ubstltute  acceptable  to  him  ;  so,  feeling  that  I  might 
not  have  any  other  opportunity  to  make  a  trade,  I  let 
liirn  have  what.  1  iiad  luilierto  eoii>idered  a  neccs- 
Mtv  to  my  existence;  hut  a  lior.--e  that  could  carry 
me  over  the  road  was  of  infinitely  more  service  to  me 
than  even  a  towel. 

'I. If  three  men  cxpnssod  their  satisfaction  and  pleas- 
ure that  1  was  a;zain  ri 'inir  a  hor>e  for  they  >eemed 
to  take  ijuiu  an  interol  in  me;  inn  no  oU'er  i  mailo 
would  induce  them  to  consent  to  go  any  further  with 
nil  than  the  five  days'  journey,  so  nuich  afraid  of 
rohhers  the\  were  when  outsidi'  their  own  district. 
The  apa  tol  me  there  was  a  large  amount  of  brigand- 
age practised  in  the  locality  through  which  we  were 
then  traveling,  also  in  that  through  which  we  would 
have  to  pursue  Oie  iouriiev  towards  -h,  ndn:  and 
therein  lay  the  reason  why  they  hail  eoiui  unmounted 
and  unarmed,  for  anyone  meeting  them  would  at  once 
conclude  that  they  had  nothing  of  value,  looking  as 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


tlK-y  did,  like  Ui,'gaM.  While  we  were  camped  one 
ni,i,'!ii  111  ,1  barrt  ji  vuiloy  on  the  caravan  road,  between 

Nii^ii  iruk  ii  1111(1  .J  u  kiindd.  (Ill  (ln>  bank  of  a  little 
iiioriitaiu  .-iicaiii.  tir.ir  wliuli  llic  ImrM-  was  ti'tiicrud 
with  a  long  miu'  -u  that  la-  wi-^hl  .L;ra/.c  tlir  wlulc,  8UiI- 
donly  one  of  the  nmi  told  us  to  |.c  still,  as  the  horne 
Inard  ^()llu>tll^lJ.^  We  I.Kikcd  iind  noticed  that  his 
attitutic  \va<  oiu  aiUMilioii,  i  t'ar<  stvaiiu-d  to 
iocati"  a  souikI.  Oik-  of  tin.'  guicivs  iiiiriiciliati'lv  untied 
him,  le<l  him  to  me,  and,  putting  the  ro\w  into  my  hand, 
tohl  uic  iiui  to  allow  liini  to  be  taken  away  on  any  pre- 
tf  .\t  whatever,  Imt.  if  iic(  i -sary,  to  tlireatcn  willi  niv 
revolviT.  Soon  two  horsemen  quietly  approached,  and 
one  of  my  men  went  to  eonver>e  with  tlu-m,  with  the 
resiih  I  hat  one  of  tiie  two  went  on,  and  the  other 
staved  (hirin;,'  ilie  in^'ht  wi  !i  iis.  He  wa;-  a  wrll-dre^-^Ml 
lain...  .  1,  thou<^h  very  iiKjiiisitn was  (piit.-  Iiannless; 
M),  afft-r  a  little  anxiety  at  the  he>.'inr.ing,  I  did  not 
have  any  .lason  to  object  to  ...s  presence. 

M;-  •ruidcs  had  no  small  (iillidilty  I"  hir'>  other 
men  and  animals  to  jonnicy  with  m  when  they 
would  leave,  but  1  was  so  anxious  ikji  to  Ik?  com- 
pelled to  make  a  start  alone  again  that  I  offered 
them  five  extra  oiiiues  of  silver  of  they  sureoed- 
ed.  This  was  i;uit('  an  iiidiicemi'iit,  and,  ou  the 
night  of  the  lifiii  day,  1  had  six  men  with  nine 
yak  to  stay  beside  me  in  the  narrow  ravine,  but  T  did 
r.ot  feel  ><i  innifortal)h'  or  ea>y  in  ihIiim  a-  !  IkhI  done 
wlien  alune  uit'i  my  (irsf  threi  ^'uides.  The  'ijxi  and  I 
had  often  .sat  by  the  fire  chatting  freely,  wliile  the 
others  gailiend  fuel  and  carried  water,  and  I  felt  as 


\Vl('Ki:i)  TIBF.TAN  (JFIDES 


329 


if  I  wt  rr  i)iiiiiriK  with  a  Iricinl.  IK-  told  mo  ibout  the 
killing  of  ih»'  I'lfmhiiuin.  Dutrouil  da  Rhiui»;  slid  that 

he  u;i-  llurc  iiiid  lifliH'i]  ilo  tlir  (lritl;.^  I  ilo  not 
.  rcti.t  ili.i!.  i''..iuj:li  i!ic  r.ii-t  lli.ii  lit'  .-<»  nniii  iiiilaii*  !y 
^'a\f  ll'i'  ili'iail.-',  ii|i!i<'li|iii;;  ilif  miiiliK-t  of  llio-i-  wln) 
had  t:.  t  n  part  in  tin*  nmrdcr  of  the  gallant  French 
.  iiiadf  ini'  fc'l  :i!i\llun^  luit  -rciirc  iii  tho 
liaiul>  tiioM'  V,  ill)  think  m>  1i;:1i!!v  nt'  killiii.L;  a  for- 
cigiifT,  'i'lio  iiui;i;iiig  caiiif  fur  [»artiiig  with  luy  guides 
who  hail  lit'cii.  on  the  whole,  fo  kind  and  thoughtful, 
really  having  i-  fully  wt  the  l)all  rolling  for  mo 
towards  .Ivrkiicdo.  Il,i\,ng  nccivcd  ihcir  .'noncy,  tlioy 
mado  mv  prcsi'iits  of  -nnn'  fnod,  jnd  utf  tlii'y  wi-nl.  \\V 
had  talked  frt-cly  (tf  .il>y,  "I  my  hushand  and  of  the 
robbtM>,  and  a-  they  liad  shown  me  8oni«'  sympathy  I 
wa<  rt>;i"y  loiicly  whin  llicv  wen'  gone,  ami  i  fell  their 
lu  pariure  llif  • 'ore  k>  t'nly  ix-  auso  tliey  were  returning 
towards  the  hi  rt;  my  heart  had  been  so  strained, 

and  where  my  .  were  yet  centered,  while  I  was 

going  alwavs  i  .» ;  v. 

Of  my  thr<  guides,  one   was       ninn  of 

about   forty,   wln.m    1    also   pleased  >r  the 

name  of  npa:  the  youngest  was  a  b-  m  about 
seventeen,  with  a  ])Ieas;mt  face,  hi-  wt  ll-toiTilicd 
;;iid  gri':i-"d  hair  hani;ri'  /  down  hclui  ■  with  an  evenly 
cut  frinj.c  in  front.  -  .i  l  a  new  she.  pskin  ;.own,  white 
and  clean  except  wncr"  his  well-oiled  hair  had  soiled 
it  at  the  hack.  The  third  was  sn(  aky  both  in  appear- 
ance and  action,  and  was  the  nnlv  one  I  feared  or  mis- 
tnisted.  Tlicv  were  all  ar,  ird  with  gxin  and  sword, 
and,  on  the  whole,  wo  jogged  ai  ag  very  harmoniously 


330 


WITH  TllK  TIHKTANS 


togt'tlior.  But.  straiijxt'lv  rnii!iL;li.  ilicy  studiously  avoideil 
ranipiii;,'  iiriir  the  iir..|i|r.  iliiiiiuli  ill'",-  iiurcril  lo  m'ciii'i' 
ifif  MT\iti'.-  of  three  mure  men  to  (ravel  llif  reiuaiiuk'r 
of  thf  way  to  Jyekundo  with  tuc  wlii'ii  they  tiu-msolvos 
had  to  riiiirii.  (in  '.In  iii'iriiini;  of  the  fourth  day,  as 
we  Were  t'olluwin^-  the  ruaii  lui^h  iiji  en  a  >|n|)e.  we 
siidtii'uiy  .-i.w  a  eliiel".-  lent  ni  the  valli'V  at  the  I'uol 
of  the  hill.  I  inunediately  docidid  to  ivpair  to  it, 
atul  a.-k  for  an  e~e(iii  nf  nit'ii  with  horses,  becaut-c  the 
yak  were  <m  >|(.\v  a  mI  tiie  nnii  were  making'  little 
p^o^q■e^,■.  a-  they  ji(i>-iliiy  could  eai  li  day,  in  order  thai 
tlu'y  should  ^et  only  a  siiort  distatur  away  from  home. 
Wiieii  1  eousidered  the  rate  at  which  we  were  traveliu;; 
I  felt  dilliiou-  ihou!  the  ii'timale  -;ieee^>  of  ni\'  elforts, 
for  my  moni  ,\uuid  not  he  -ullii  lent  to  meet  the  nece  - 
sary  e.\iien-e  lor  tran>j.ort  and  food;  hui  when  1  niaJe 
known  to  the  men  my  intention  they  firmly  ohjeotod, 
.-.iviiii:  they  W'  l.  :ifraid.  for  this  was  t'leir  own  chief. 
1  took  the  iiiitiati\e  and  drau'ired  my  hor>e  down, 
hiddinj,'  them  follow,  which  they  reluctantly  <lid.  .Soon 
the  old  uiau  and  I  were  callinj^  to  the  servants  around 
the  tint. 

Oil  our  appr'.aeh  the  rhii  fs  >tewaril  came  to 
convci-^r  with  us,  -o  1  jrave  him  a  licaiitifiil  hlnita  for 
the  iHjithii,  and  asked  for  an  interview,  lie  rcairned 
the  kluda  and  saiil  l)ei!i\i.->e  I  was  a  woman  1  could  not 
enter  into  ihi'  aiiL'u-t  j)r'e>ence  of  hi-  ina-ter,  hut  that 
he  hiin.-elf  would  act  as  middleman.  I  refused  to  accept 
the  A7iu/«,  and,  showing;  him  our  ('hines(  pa»port<.  1 
informed  him  that  we  ha  1  l)een  roiihed  some  distance 
away,  that  this  was  the  first  chief  I  had  been  alile  to 


\Vl(.  Ki:i)  TII!1:TAN  (il  lDKS  331 


(hid,  and  that  I  dct>ired  an  escort  with  horses  to  take 

lae  to  .1  vrkiiiiiln.  cNiirc.-siii^-  my  \villiiii,nu>s  to  pay  for  it. 
Ho  \uth(lif\v  to  tin'  ti'iil  to  make  known  my  wishes 
to  his  mastt'r,  and  ri'turnfii  iircK'Utly  to  say  there  was 
another  chief  near  by  who  would  give  nie  what  I 
wanted,  Imt  that  he  liiniM'!!'  mnM  imi.  I  replied  that 
my  ]ir(~<  iii  ^triiiilc-  wnc  not  fc>|Mm,-ililf  to  anvone  for 
lay  ?al\l\,  and  that  I  wonid  not  leave  tiie  plaee  wiiere 
1  now  was  without  an  escort,  and  that  I  would  stav 
indefinitely  deuendit-,",'  upon  liim  for  my  food,  and  for 
tile  safety  of  my  hor-r;  if  I  ilicd  ihc  ^M\crnmi'nt  would 
111  tune  trace  me  to  iliat  ~pol,  and  the  pfiiili  j  would  get 
into  trouble.  This  was  sullicient  to  move  the  chief,  and 
we  very  soon  came  to  terms;  but  1  was  to  wait  until 
iir\t  ilav  r-o  that  the  c-cort  mi;,dit  make  preparations 
lor  the  journey.  .\>  the  live  days  weie  not  yet  up,  I 
retained  my  three  guides  until  the  following  morning 
when,  paying  them  their  full  amount  of  money,  1  per- 
iiiiltiMl  tliem  to  leave.  The  .subordinates  of  the  chief 
(ame  ahout  fi'eely,  trying'  to  buy  mv  revohcr.  ami  par- 
luularly  the  teleMojie.  i'he  jiuiibo  did  not  forget  his 
dignity  enough  to  speak  to  me,  hut  he  sent  to  ask  the 
loan  of  ni\  tel. x-ope.  with  wl'.ieh  it  was  evident  he  was 
a^  |i|ra-e(l  a>  a  child,  for  lie  was  anxious  to  Imy  it  :  but, 
I'tcling  that  he  would  not  give  me  very  much  for  it, 
1  said  that  if  the  escort  he  provided  took  me  to 
dyekundo  I  would  semi  it  back  with  them  as  a  present 
lor  him.  ."'"veral  tinie«-  he  sent  nie-<engcrs  to  ascertain 
if  I  meant  what  1  said,  to  eiu  li  (.ne  oi'  whom  1  gave  the 
answer  that  if  they  returned  without  it.  it  would  bo 
because  thry  had  not  fullilled  the  agreement. 


U  ri  II  i  lli:  I  IIIKTANS 


III  tlic  ovcniiii:  the  Iwo  iiicii  dc-iiiicil  ji-  -uiilr.-  were 
i 111 nitiiiciMl  til  nil'.   I  iKiliicd  tl,;!t  mio  dl'  tlicin  hml  a  vitv 
wickc'il  TiUi'  and  a  >liavcii  head,  wlnif  llie  other  was 
just  an  onlinarv  lay  'riiK-taii.    I  iiad  ,irivcii  llie  [lunbo 
a  piece  of  sil\rr  a-  ]ia\im'iit  for  the  c^'-ort,  aiul.  fearin}^ 
it  ua>  iM»t  ,i:(i(pd  all  liic  way  tlim         |  pivMniic.  they 
u>liC'(l  ir  tiiey  iiiiidit  LUt  il  111  two,  ami  u|)()ii  |(crnii>.>ioii 
they  did  so,  eaeli  taking'  a  half,    'riiey  iheii  rciiiustid 
me  to  travel  at  night,  hut  1  eni|»hasized  the  faet  that  I 
never  Iraveicil  after  dark,  and  that  settled  the  (|ues- 
liini.    The  chiej'  had  alread\-  sent  lue  ]ire>eiit>  d'  hat- 
ter and  ciieeK',  and  llie  ne\i  iiKirnm^  v,e  ,-i't  off,  the 
two  nK'ii  earryinfj  my  thinfr>  on  their  sadilles  so  that 
Ihey  ini;4iil  not  have  a  thin!  hi'r-e  tu  dehiy  lis  on  onr 
wav.     I   had  an  (  a-v  luarl,  ihinkiiiLT  that   th'    ilm  r"- 
men  wnidd  he  ijuite  an  iiniini\eiiient  nver  ihe  diU'r-  I 
had  hired  niyM'lf.    Uiil  what  a  cliange!    Instead  of 
sccnniv  I  ruiad  myself  in  imminent  dan;rer.  for  two 
MTV  had  men  had  heen  tri\en  me.  and  nnl\  Ihe  promi.-e 
lo  cCiid  ihe  tele.-eope  to  llieir  chief  i-eiured  any  help 
from  them.    There  arc  no  worse  men  in  the  peniten- 
tiaries to-<lay  than  were  those  men  with  wh)im  1  traveled 
t'ur  Slime  time,  fur  they  planned  t.i  kdl.  Id  nih  me,  and 
did  siieeeecl  in  cheat  in;,'  me.     Noi  fur  ime  in.-tanl  did 
they  escape  my  siirveillaaee  exicpt  when  they  went  in- 
side a  tent,  and  even  then  1  watched  to  pc*'  thern  again  at 
once  when  they  emi  i ;:ed.   The  one  who  c  arried  my  food 
en  his  saddle  went  t.i  hi>  nun  tent  for  the  neees.-arie- 
lor  til''  journey,  and  wluu  j,'niU'  .^-tole  half  my  little 
.supfdy  of  Immba  and  butter.    How  de>iiiialil\  mean 
I  thought  he  wa.s  to  take  from  me.  a  lone  woman,  my 


WK'KEl)  TIIIETAN  lil 


333 


niil.v  food,  wlk'ii  I  was  ill  a  hostile  country  among 
.-traii^a-is ;  but  it  served  to  {)iit  iiic  on  my  j;u<inl. 

The  fifjit  night  we  spent  h^Adv  ihc  otlier  mans  tent, 
and  juy  soul  revolts  wlien  I  think  of  the  suggestions  he 
made  to  me.  and  yet  he  .>Mly  treated  me  as  if  I  were  a 
'I'ilictan  wi.iiian.  imt  knowing  that  womh'm  in  oiir  land 
are   in   a    wititly   dilliTciu    position   from   l!iu.>e  in 
'i'ibet.   When  that  man— the  very  thought  of  whom 
makes    me    siiiiihler — was    leaving    tu    go    to  sleep 
insidf  tlic  (('M^  1  rcit(>ralc(l  wliat  I  had  alivady  said, 
tliat  if  aiiylliing  approadieil  me  during  the  night,  I 
would  fire  niy  revolver  at  whatever  it  was,  whereupon 
he  told  me  to  be  ean  ful  not  to  kill  the  dog!    In  the 
morning  as  we  starliM]       tlic  !.ig  (  aiavan  road  towards 
.lyekuiido,  my  tieaeherous  guide,-,  caused  me  to  d  o]  more 
uneomfortablc  than  ever,  but  they  found  out  that  1  was 
(o  be  treated  with  resiwot,  and  that  I  would  not  tolerate 
I  ithcr  familiar  language  or  gc-tnre,  'leing  readv  with 
my   revolver  to   resist   any    im|Midcn(c.    Oh!  how  I 
thanked  my  husl)and  for  ins  tlmngliiful  caic  in  giving 
mc  that  protective  revolver,  for  it  was  the  only  instru- 
ment to  keep  in  eontrol  the  abusive  and  insulting  ten- 
dencies of  those  men.     5  have  m  vcr  seen  anv  other 
TilH'tans  or  Chinese  who  ev<'ii  appioai  lied  them  in  wick- 
edness of  every  description,  and  goni(!times  can  scarcely 
realize  that  I  spent  days  and  nights  alone  with  them. 

Tliey  assured  mr  that  wnmrii  wi  ir  ~n  low  and  de- 
graded that  they  were  ashaiu'd  to  !„■  seen  iravcliiig  with 
me,  and  when  we  were  near  p(  (ij)le,  I  was  not  to  ojwn 
my  lips  to  utter  a  word,  for  if  I  did  it  would  be  known 
I  was  not  one  of  the  nobler  sex  like  them  and  they 


334 


WITH  TMKTinKTAXS 


would  not  anotlier  .-ti  |)  witli  mr.  'I'hcv  wiished  to 
appear  vory  kind  aiul  uaiilcd  to  ri'licw  inc  of  t;  .loavv 
tolescoiK',  wliich  they  oll'ered  to  carry,  but  1  preferred 
retaining  that  myself  in  the  blouse  of  niy  gown.  As 
long  as  I  had  it,  they  wore  to  certain  extent  in  my 
power,  for  it  would  almost  mean  the  loss  of  Ihcr  heads 
did  they  return  to  tiieir  chief  witlinut  it.  'I'liey  soon 
fiiuud  that  I  was  on  the  alert  against  l)eiiig  dieated  in 
a  simple  manner,  so  they  planned  on  an  extensive  scale 
to  u'ct  iiic  uiihiu  ihr'f  c'lntrnl.  iiiit  1  in  the  hands 
of  the  ^rciit.  LTood  father,  and  iii   jirotcctcd  nic 

About  noon  the  more  wickeil  of  tlic  two  complained  of 
a  severe  pain  in  his  stomach,  which  grew  worse  until 
1p  was  ajipannlly  almost  unable  to  ])ro(ccil.  They 
a-k"d  mc  if  I  had  any  medicines  that  woidd  rel  eve 
pain,  and  I  replied  in  the  allirmative,  for  i  had  my 
hypodermie  syringe  with  tablets  of  morphia  which  I 
knew  would  relieve  him.  if  he  were  realiv  sulTering, 
soiiietliinp  I  V(^ry  much  doul)ted.  He  a>ked  me 
if  the  medicine  were  Chinese  or  Kngli^h,  and  up- 
on my  r(  plying  that  it  was  the  latter,  he  said  he 
dare  not  take  it,  for  though  English  medicine  might  1)C 
.ill  riLrht  for  us  and  th(>  Chine-^e.  i;  would  eertaiidv 
kill  a  Tibetan.  Seeing  tents  in  the  di.-tance  to  the  left 
of  the  road,  he  said  we  would  spend  the  night  beside 
them,  and  he  would  secure  the  services  of  a  lama  who 
could  give  liim  ni'''li(  iiir'  and  <ay  f)ravi'rs  for  his  re- 
eovery.  .<o  we  went  towards  them.  When  we  had  ar- 
rived at  a  place  near  the  la-^t  ones,  we  .sat  down;  they 
indulged  in  snuff  anfl  conferred  together,  while  I  sev- 
eral times  suggested  that  we  .should  make  our  way  over 


WlCKtlD  TIBETAN  GL'IDES 


835 


towards  the  tent  and  settle  down  for  the  night,  for  we 

wore  cxliiiustcd  Mild  nccdod  rest,  while  the  sick  man 
could  and  phur  hinisi'lf  in  tlir  car.'  of  the  hfimbn. 
But  soon  I  saw  that  tiiev  were  uiakinji  otliiT  plans,  for 
we  started  on  again  and  left  the  tents  behind  us,  be- 
caiiso,  so  tliry  trii'-i  to  make  nn'  liclicvc,  the  inhabitants 
were  vorv  l»ad  roMicrs,  and  it  would  be  dangerous  for 
us  to  remain  near  them. 

1  dared  not  quarrel  with  them,  for  it  would  have 
ended  in  their  tvllin;:  tlie  i.co|,l,.  I  was  wieked  and 
.■"honld  lie  killed,  which  would  |inil);il)Iv  rcMilt  in  mv 
deatl'.,  .s)  1  felt  it  was  In'tter  policy  for  me  to  he  on 
tiiy  guard  and  yet  not  ineense  my  guides.    We  passed 
old  sites  of  tents,  wlierc  were  mounds  of  fuel  laid  up 
lor  fiiliire  use,  and  rea<  heil  an  immense  marsh  tliroii<rli 
uiiich  we  travek'd  for  hours,  our  hor.-es  liaviiii:  dith- 
eulty  to  i»ick  their  way,  and  where  human  Ijein-^s  had 
ill  all  likelihood  never  l)een  l)efore.    Reaching  a  little 
>-(ream  we  followed  it  until  \\v  found  a  ])Lice  where  our 
Ii<u-ses  could  jump:  here  we  cro>>ed  and  tlien  folI.)We<l 
it  back  into  a  right  angle,  where  they  dismounted  to 
camp.   We  had  the  black,  miry  stream  on  two  sides  of 
us,  and  Were  liemmed  in  l)y  very  marsliv  ground  tliat 
extended  miles  away  to  flie  ha~e  of  hills.   1  iiotiei.|| 

that  the  men  carefully  concealed  the  Sire  in  order  that 
the  flames  should  not  he  seen  in  the  distance,  and  as  it 
wr.<  long  after  dark,  we  prepared  to  rest  as  soon  as  we 
had  our  evening  meal.  They  fre.pientiv  assured  me 
of  the  safety  of  our  cami.ing  grr  and.  where  wo  *  uld 
all  sleep  soundly  without  any  danger  of  robbers,  for 
we  could  not  be  reached  without  the  plunging  in  the 


336 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


bog  betraying  Iho  a|ipr»);i(  li  of  nii  ciieniy.  They  lay 
down  with  ihi  ir  ;riiiis  ready,  iiiul  tlii'ir  huaiis  hi'sidc  tho 
biiiouhli  iinj,'  lirr,  while  1  .spread  my  ruhber  sheeting 
ill  tiic  driest  jiiace  1  could  find  a  few  yards  from  them, 
With  my  revolver  in  my  hand  I  spent  the  night,  now 
looking  at  the  .-tars  to  glean  some  hope  from  tlieir  bright 
Hvinkh'.  now  at  the  liorses — praying  for  strength  to 
keep  awake  that  1  might  watch  with  unerring  and  un- 
faltering eye  every  movement  of  the  two  bad  men  be- 
side me;  for  though  tliey  liad  told  me  so  kindly  to  sleej) 
without  I'ear,  they  yet  called  me  very  snfily  .'•iK  tirne.-^ 
during  the  night,  when  1  promi)tly  ali^weI•eli  so  that 
they  might  know  I  was  not  to  be  caught  napping.  What 
their  purpose  was  1  eoiilil  not  diseern.  hui  their  leading 
mc  away  from  huiiiaii  haunts  i'lto  tlie  center  of  that 
extensive  marsh,  bidding  me  have  no  ca.e  for  wc  could 
all  safely  sleep,  and  then  calling  mc  so  frecjuontly,  made 
rac  realize  that  their  actions  bocU'd  no  good,  and  that  I 
might  have  found  a  last  resting-place  in  that  forsaken 
spot  witlioiit  a  trace  being  left.  Men  may  i)lan,  but  it 
was  not  to  be  as  they  wished.  When  the  morning  dawned 
the  man's  pain  had  vanished,  and  with  it  even  the  ap- 
pearance of  kindness;  probably  tliey  were  ai;j;ry  thai 
a  woman  was  so  lUK^xpoetedly  on  her  guard.  We  sad- 
dled our  horses — I  had  to  saddh'  my  own — and  before 
the  sun  had  as  yet  risen  over  the  hills,  we  were  on  the 
way  back  to  the  main  road  which  we  had  quitted  the 
day  before,  trotting  along  quickly  until  we  reached  a 
place  where  there  were  two  roads. 

Here  the  guides  hesitated,  saying  they  were  not 
certain  which  of  the  roads  led  to  Jy^kundo,  but 


WICKED  Tir.HTAN  (il  lDKS  337 


j'ventually  they  took  tlu'  smaller  one,  and   I  sug- 

•:i\<to(l  our  <l()in^'  wliat  llic  noiiiiids  always  il<i.  ask 
;it  some  adjacent  tenls-  i'or  directions  as  to  the 
j)ro{)er  road;  so  while  I  stayed  as  I  had  usually 
done  at  one  side  on  account  of  the  dogs,  they  sought 
information  from  the  tent  (Iwcllors.  Soon  tlicv  came 
to  me,  a-^kin!,'  if  1  kui'w  what  smallpox  was.  and  savintj 
that  there  was  an  ejjidcmif  of  it  at  .lyekundo.  and  ihcy 
would  not  go.  It  was  not  ditlicult  for  nie  to  realize  what 
that  meant,  for  'Pilx  tans  are  very  much  afraid  of  that 
dread  disca-i',  aiiil  llr.'  I'mm  it  a.-  we  would  from  vcllow 
i'cvcr  or  clinlcra.  IWit  I  said  that  1  was  not  afraid,  and 
that  they  must  go  with  me  or  they  eould  not  have  the 
h'lescnix'  lor  liicir  cliicr;  wlu  r(  ii|M)n  ilicy  intimated  that 
It  would  1m'  ht'tlcr  to  lie  killed  iiy  tile  p<inhn  while  aiiion^r 
iheir  own  friends,  than  to  die  of  smallpox  among  stran- 
gers! It  was  »)f  no  avail  for  me  to  say  that  when  we 
iirrivdl  within  sight  of  Jyekundo  they  might  return, 
■•ind  I  uoiild  proceed  aIor;e.  for  tliev  would  not  take 
another  step  'v\  that  direction.  I  felt  that  they  were 
only  endeavoring  again  to  cheat  me.  so  I  suggested  hav- 
ing hreakfji-t  there  near  the  tents,  for  I  was  faint  with 
the  long  l;i  .-ehack  ride,  ilie  >even'  strniii  of  wafehing 
the  men.  and  the  aiiiww!  Ii(.pele'>  la-k  of  halkin^'  lliein 
in  their  wickecl  designs.  1  did  not  dare  to  lell  them 
1  wotdd  dispense  with  their  services,  for  that  would 
at  once  have  turned  them  into  hitler  eniMides.  leaving 
to  again  niake  my  wav  alone  and  ui  known  to  tentr. 
wiiere  they  probahly  woidd  have  .-eatrered  calumny.  1 
eould  scarcely  restrain  the  feeling  of  desperation  that 
forced  itself  upon  me,  and  it  was  difPoult  to  keep  the 


338 


WITH  ITIK  l  UlbTANS 


guidi'i!  fnun  tliiiikiii^'  tluit  I  was  alino^l  noiipluisscd  to 

know   \\ll;it  thr   |||u>t   cX  |ic(l  iiiil    (nlif^f   In  [iin>lli'. 

Alu  iitlriiipls  ti)  iniliicc  tlic'iii  to  <nt  to  .lyrkiuido  jinivi'd 
futili',  and  1  c-oiuluded  to  at-cojit  their  olTer  to  guiilc 
me  along  the  caravan  road  to  where  there  was  a  China- 
niiiii.  for  i  I't  lt  if  only  I  (iiuld  <(•»•  one  of  the  Chiiicst' 
iiuTcliinits  Ml  foiiiiiinii  iicjir  'i'ilit'taii  towns,  that  lu' 
uouUl  tiTtaiiily  hcl|)  mc,  a  surnuM'  wliitli  al'tcrwanl 
])roved  correct.  After  consi(h'rahh'  hartraining  and  al- 
most a  li;.'lit  licturcii  the  tun  iiK  ii,  niir  nl'  ilii'iii  drawing 
his  sunr.l  ,it  tlir  nilmr  ( wlicrcu pmi  1  uclcil  ms  pcacr- 
iiiakcr— an  imponaiit  pcrMina^'c  in  all  oriciital  disturl)- 
nnce.>i),  I  gave  them  ten  ounces  of  silver,  and  j)roniise<l 
them  the  telescope  when  we  found  a  Chinaman.  It  is 
as  a  rule  \rry  |in.ii'  policy  In  |iay  all  tlm  tiinnr\-  dnwii  to 
;:uidcs,  and  I  n  I'liM'd  to  ilo  il,  Iml  ihcv  woiilij  not  stir 
fnmi  the  place  until  I  had.  though  of  cojirse  I  hehl  a 
linn  hold  over  them  through  the  telescope.  At  the  first 
lii't  '.vc  .  aine  to,  they  iii(|uirfd  the  w  Iirrcalxnit'  of  the 
(  liine.-e  merchants,  and  led  nic  oil"  the  road  along  a 
little  foot-path,  liy  following  which  we  would  find  some 
in  two  days.  My  whole  nature  revolted  against  travel- 
ing with  tlii'it'  I'nr  I  kii.  u  tl;rv  wen-  K.id  \\\r.-  trviiig  to 
1  licat  me,  Inn  it  wa>  lu'>t  to  he  jialicnl.  ;ind  >o  1  tried 
!0  keep  my  thoughts  on  the  hriglite.-t  side  of  things. 

We  (amiHMl  in  one  of  nature's  loveliest  spots  that 
iiight — in  a  I  ill  In  reci^s  among  the  hills  where  many 
tents  were  jiitclii'd  nn  pretty  gras-y  .-tri;  -,  wlirrc  Hocks 
and  herds  were  iieacefnlly  gra/iiig.  and  where  halihled 
winding  hrooks.  on  the  hank  of  one  of  which  we  made 
a  fire.   The  bad  men  sjKsnt  the  evening  in  a  black  tent, 


WICKKD  TIRKTAX  OriDES  339 

hut  I  ivns  aliiio.-t  pel i ilicd  wlww  tlu  v  mimI  mi-  wciv  ap- 
pnmcliiiig  a  linmiMTV  uln  rc  tln  ri'  was  iin  iiilonso  hatred 

a  rDni^iicr  wr  ueul.l  .ill  \,v  killed;  mi  iliat  cvorythitiL,- 
llial  would  iMtrav         iial ii.;ialit_v  imi.-t  bi'  dt'sllojcd. 
I  hlmll  never  tnvm  i  the  stniu'jile  1  had  wlicn  my  hiis- 
I'aiid's  Ilihlo  that  he  had  ii«<  rl  f„r  years— his  most  prc- 
,  K.iN  |.(Kv'-.<i(m- ami  In-  diarv.  unv  .■ondeiimed  to  be 
di-.-iru\ed  In  iieiiiy  Iniiud  in  a  miry  .-trcarii  wiili  .-(ones 
piled  on  them;  hut  J  had  to  aeeede  to  their  retniests  or 
laee  further  troulde.    The  next  day  we  went  on.  the 
lucii  actiim  Mi.,-|  iiiy-ti  riou-iy  wiicii  the  -liailes  of  iii^dU 
'>\cr\\  helmed  us,  l.^aiiin-  the  way  hi-li  uj.  inn.  .nrivf 
eanldron  in  the  hills,  far  from  some  l(  in.-  m  ih,.  vallev, 
ulieie  we  could  apparently  have  so  ju-aeefully  remained. 
W  v  iniiiKl  just  eii(.u>;li  water  to  make  a  littie  tea.  and 
tiieii  lay  down  tn  n-t.    Suddenly  a  \.h(c  v^-.n-  \\<  v.mvj; 
out  in  the  darkn.  ss.  the  mm  Inislied  up  then-  do,i,r,  lia-t" 
ily  aro.se,  donned  their  Hheoppkins.   i^'nited  the  fustvs 
{■<r  tlicir  ^nins.  and  Mood  rcadv  to  dcr.  nd  their  horse?, 
while  I  i)rayrd  for  |not,viion.    'Dw  >lintitin,-  ((.ntinucd! 
hut  slowly  died  away  in  tlie  distance,  when  one  of  tiiJ 
men  remarked  that  they  must  Ik.'  soarchiuK  i"<'r  us.  or  it 
•<  as  some  our  w|io  ua-  lo-t.  .-o  he  in  his  turn  called,  ami 
>o.,n.  -uid.'d  hy  the  \oi,.,..  the  >tran-(-r  iiia,!,-  In-,  way  to 
the  lire,  and  the  tluve  talked  toilet Imt.     I  I,, .ml  him 
ask  who  I  was,  an.l  the  guides  replied  tli.it  I  was  a  Chi- 
(laman  who  w.i-  -on,;;  to  join  his  companions  at  the 
!.iiiia-erv.  I,nl  I  did  not  know  tli,.  laiiKiia-e  at  all,  so  he 
•Hvd  not  address  me.  a  very  arlfnl  wav  indcd  to  pre- 
vent his  findiufrout  thai  I  wa-  a  rotv,-ii  Moniaii.  1' 


'res- 


M40 


WITH  THK  TIBETANS 


piitly  \w  wi  lit  away,  and  n'turiu'd  aliiioM  immodiately 
with  thrt'o  im'ii  '  fflt  llial  llurc  was  i-omothin;; 
iiiiiisji.  but  s»M)ri  (iiMu.i  T.Ml  thiit  owiiij;  tn  <>iir  .-n-piciiMi- 
inlinii-  \\i  Ixrn  lak.  ii  for  mlilnTs,  ami  tlifV  wvrv  .i 
(l(  (iiitauuii  M  ilt  !•>  l!  t  hief  to  inveftigato.  On  their 
(It'partiin'  tTicy  had  taken  witii  them  one  of  the  ;;uns  Ik'- 
longing  to  "  V  nit  ii,  .  -niirii  v  tliat  Wf  wcniM  molest  no 
one  'hiriii;,'  tlic  iii^'lit.  I  wm>  piiitil'iilly  w.iirv  Imt  tlariMl 
not  ^leej).  ami  icjoucil  that  \\r  would  jirohahly  rea<  h 
tho  lamasery  of  Kanhi  Oonihu  the  following  morning 
when  1  would  let  thi'  uien  <;o  back  to  !h<  ir  home:-.  1 
hope  iin  ntluT  tra    -Icr^  will  evi  r  fall  iiiln  ili.'ir  liaiuis. 

At  ilayhiealK  a  ymw^  Lima  brought  hue  k  the  },'uii,  and 
as  I  had  the  seal  of  silence  on  my  lips  he  '  lieved  that 
1  wart  a  Chinaman.  M\  hat  and  fur  eoihir  eoiicealcd 
tho  most  of  my  fate,  wimli  wa-  far  fr'MM  whiif.  and 
my  garments  were  by  no  means  nidikf  tluoe  uu.  ii  Ity 
a  morchant  of  the  Cek'stial  Kmpire,  es|H'(  ially  my  bij; 
straw  hat,  which  the  guides  implore<l  me  to  wear  in 
order  to  (ovr:  !!iy  face  and  hair.  How  Ix^autiful  was 
the  eoimtry  t}i!.ai;jh  whii  h  we  wemled  our  way  on  that 
bright  day!  I'.vcrgreen  trees  «lotteil  the  grassy  hillsides 
and  were  welcomed  as  old  friends,  for  I  had  seen  none 
for  many  lii.ui'lis.  \\'a>  it  because  hop''  -an:^  in  my 
heart,  thai  nalarc  looked  bright  and  invilin;;';'  Or  was 
it  that  bree/.o  whispered  the  same  stories  through  the 
l»oughs  as  I  had  often  listened  to  in  far-away  CanaJa? 
Or  pi  rhap-  .  ^(  (  n  t  lay  in  the  fact  that  in  a  few  hours 
1  should  ha\c  part' <1  company  with  the  worst  me"  1 
liiul  ever  had  the  ini;-fi  riiine  to  come  in  contact  with. 
The  tents,  nestled  in  sin..;  corners  of  the  valleys,  looked 


Wlt'KKD  TIBETAN  GUIDES 


341 


inviting,  and  T  would  not  have  had  any  fear  to  make 

my  way  to  thrm,  for  whore  Chitn'x'  mm  liaiits  ure  tom- 
raon,  Tibotans  ari'  us  a  rule  tulciaiit  aiid  lilHTal.  Pro.-.- 
enlly  Wf  LUiiif  in  sight  of  a  .-mall  laiiia.-cry  which  was, 
as  is  usual  with  these  villages,  built  partly  on  the  slopes 
of  hills  and  partly  in  the  valley  beside  a  river,  and 
thouj,'li  the  li<iu~cs  were  not  many  in  ninulHT  they  wore 
very  siili>tantiai  and  looked  well.  Tlieif  were  hundreds 
of  tents  of  different  kinds  scattered  around  the  lamus* 
abodes,  and  I  realized  there  was  a  fair  in  pro^'ress.  thus 
uc'countiii;:  for  the  larpe  numlnT  of  pcoplr  in  i,mv  ap- 
parel whom  Wf  lia<l  seen  journeying  in  our  direc  tion.  \ 
Tibetan  fair  is  the  last  place  foreigners  should  go  to 
when  they  are  unknown,  lor  a  rabble  of  people  drinking 
and  caroiisiM'T  is  tniiviialiie.  ami  just  a>  likely  to  he  hos- 
tile as  friendly.  The  men  found  u  Chinese  merchant 
who  had  rooms  in  a  lama's  houtie,  so  to  him  we  went,  and 
us  I  Was  debarred  from  entering  the  lamasery  beeause 
I  was  a  womaii.  he  (  ame  out  to  see  me.  The  guides 
merely  told  him  that  1  wa.-  ;i  ' 'hine.-o  woman  from  Sin- 
in<j,  and  imniodiately  made  oil.  tclescopi-  and  all,  but  1 
breathed  a  sigh  of  relief  even  though  I  had  as  yet  to 
make  a  friendly  atmosphere  for  myself  in  my  new 
surroundings. 


CHAPTER  XXIII 


A  FRIENDLY  CIIIXAMAN' 

A  Protector  at  Lus-t — 1  Km-ivc  a  Passport  from  the 
Abbot  of  Rashi  Gomba — A  Lama  Guide — Battle 
W'itli  Fierce  Dogs — Arrival  at  Jyekundo — Xo  Otti- 
oial  Aid. 

Near  the  entrance  in  the  mud-brick  wall  around 

the  house  -  ood  a  group  of  lamas,  conspicuous  among 
whom  was  a  Chinaman  about  tifty  years  old,  with  pock- 
marked face  and  typical  Chinese  features,  who  wore 
the  ordinary  Chinese  garb,  not  omitting  even  the  little 
circular  black  hat  with  the  red  button.  There  was  noth- 
ing in  my  cursory  glance  al  liini  to  give  me  cause  for 
either  hope  or  fear,  tliough  his  iirst  words  might  seal 
my  fate,  for  he  could  wield  as  he  chose  the  curious  and 
idle  crowd  that  was  quickly  gathering  about  and  hem- 
ming us  in.  What  would  be  his  first  hasty  thought? 
Would  he  i)e  unfriendly  and  .so  increase  the  iniuite  pre- 
judice of  the  unruly  and  armed  Tibetans?  or  would 
lie  gra>p  tlic  >ituarion  and  thus  save  me? 

1  aildrc-sed  him  as  lao-jirh  (a  very  respectful  title  to 
give  an  old  man  or  one  of  rank),  in  my  Sining  dialect 
of  the  Chinese,  which  would  tally  with  the  announce- 
ment of  the  guides  that  I  was  a  Chinese  woman  from 

34a 


A  FRIENDLY  CIirXAMAX 


343 


Sining;  but  liis  first  sentence  told  nie  thai  lie  li.ul 
])iercud  luy  identity  with  his  careful  scrutiny,  and  knew 
that  1  was  a  European,  for  he  said,  '*  llow  is  it  that 
you  are  here  all  alone  like  this?"  He  had  recognized 
the  bond  between  us  of  our  being  the  only  strangers 
in  a  strange  land,"  and  though  several  Tibetans  said 
that  1  was  not  Chinese  but  l)cUny,  he  gave  them  no 
heed;  while  I  opened  my  heart  to  him  and  told 
him  of  the  fate  of  our  caravan,  of  our  little  son's 
death,  of  our  being  rol)bed,  and  tlien  of  the  awful 
separation  from  in\  husband — with  tiie  suljsequeut 
necessity  of  my  traveling  alone.  He  was  touched — the 
death  of  a  son  always  comes  with  sorr<>w  to  a  Chinaman 
— and  he  said.  "  You  have  I'aten  much  bitterness,  (^uiet 
your  heart,  for  now  that  you  are  with  us  Chinese  you 
are  all  right.  The  Tibetans  are  bad,  but  we  are  all 
travelers  alike."  Some  of  the  lamas  brought  me  a 
pitcher  of  tea  which  was  indei'd  welcome,  wliiie  we  two 
conversed  in  a  language  which  the  Tibetans  did  not  un- 
derstand, and  he  communicated  to  them  as  much  of  the 
information  as  he  deemed  wise,  withholding  the  fact 
that  1  was  not  a  Chinese  woman,  though  had  they  looked 
at  my  feet  they  might  have  known. 

It  was  with  a  great  shock  (d'  flisajipointmenl  that  1 
learned  of  the  absence  from  Jyekundo  of  the  Chinese 
ollicial,  for  the  representative  of  the  Amban  had  left 
that  place  in  tiie  summer,  and  no  one  would  come  to  fill 
the  otlicc  until  the  following  year.  Thus  ray  hopes  of 
aid  from  that  source  were  crushed,  but  the  merchant 
said  there  was  no  small-pox  there.  He  had  a  de)>ot 
for  trade  in  that  town,  and  when  the  live  days  of  the 


344 


WITH  THE  TIBETAXS 


fair  were  ended,  ho  would  be  returning,  and  he  offered 
me  the  escort  of  himself  and  his  men  if  I  would  wait  and 
go  with  them,    hi  the  meantime  the  lamas  erected  a 
comfort alile  sliclter  nrar  the  doorway  wliero  1  could 
remain  until  we  were  ready  to  leave;  l)ut,  thougli  kind- 
ness and  sincerity  had  luoinpted  the  act,  1  felt  that  I, 
a  woman  alone,  was  not  safe.    So  I  made  known  my 
luisiiivinir!^  to  Kia  ClioiKj-kio  i-ieh,  the  Chinaman,  say- 
ing that  it'  only  I  wcri'  near  otlicr  ■.vonion,  or  could  pro- 
cure an  e.-^cort  to  .Tyekundo  where  1  might  rest  until  he 
came,  I  would  feel  safer  than  at  the  fair  where  I  would 
have  to  remain  five  days,  each  day  increasing  the  tur- 
bulent crowd.    There  was  little  possibility  of  being  able 
to  persuade  anyone  to  leave  the  fair  just  at  its  com- 
mencement, but  he  clearly  saw  the  reasons  for  my  fears, 
-o  towards  evening  1  was  taken  to  the  proximity  of  a 
Idack  tent  whore  tliero  wore  l^uddliist  nun-,  in  which  I 
was  to  have  quartiTs.    1  could  scarcely  realize  the  tran- 
sition from  suoh  deep  fear  when  with  those  guides,  to 
the  sense  of  peace  that  resulted  from  the  care,  respect 
and  friendly  interest  manifested  by  that  Chinaman 
and  the  priests.     As  evening  settled  down,  one  of 
the  lamas  took  my  horse  to  his  home  where  I  would  have 
no  anxiety  concerning  '^im,  and  as  I  drank  in  the  de- 
lisrlit  of  the  ))oacefid  shepl.(>rd  scenes  about  me,  mv 
troubled  heart  was  lulled  into  a  calm.   The  black  cattle 
came  slowly  in,  glad  to  sec  their  young  again,  the  sheep 
pattered  along  bleating,  horses  whinnied  joyfully, 
women  carried  water  from  tlie  clear  mountain  stream, 
while  a  short  distance  away  the  visitors  to  the  fair  in 
their  gay  garments  were  busy  piling  up  near  the  white 


A  Fini:XDl-Y  CinXAMAX  346 


or  blue  tents  their  mcivhaiulisi.',  and  tethering  their 
transport  .yak,  or  mules  and  horses  where  tliey  could 
exercise  vigilance  over  them  during  the  night. 

Early  the  i'ullcwing  niorniiig  a  mc>-cn<;cr  eame  ^ 
inform  me  tliat  1  was  to  leave  tliai  day  I'nr  .1  yekumln. 
Kia  Llioiuj'km  i-li'li  had,  eontrary  to  his  most  sanguine 
expectations,  received  from  the  abbot  of  Kashi  (lomba, 
the  lamasery  where  I  was  staying,  a  i)a»]ii)rt  duly 
signctl  and  seak"!  by  tlie  same,  whicli  said  that  1  was  a 
Ciiinese  woman  from  Sining  sent  by  the  otlicials  of 
Xagch'uk'a,  and  that  1  was  to  have  ula  and  escor  to 
Jyekiindo.  Presently  a  lama  brought  my  horse  which 
he  saildled,  putting  my  load  on  it,  and  then  le<l  me 
into  the  ]iresenee  of  the  Ciiinaman,  who  ooniinunicated 
his  pkiii  fur  my  sifety,  saying  that  a  lama  would  go 
with  me  until  we  reached  a  chief  in  the  Jy^knndo  dis- 
trict will)  would  i)rovide  an  escort  *o  the  town  itself, 
wli(>re  1  was  to  iiuiiiire  for  his  home,  and  stay  ilicre  until 
he  arrived,  lie  also  irieti  to  have  u  piece  of  silver 
changed  into  Indian  ruj  ees,  but  the  abbot  not  having 
any  use  for  my  sjivcc  wanted  too  mucli  discount,  so  the 
merchant  himself  ciianged  it  witlio'.it  loss  to  me.  It  is 
only  fair  to  pay  a  tribute  to  this  man,  a  perfect  stranger, 
who  treated  me  in  as  kind  and  thoughtful  a  manner 
as  any  F^uroj)ean  could  have  done,  not  expecting  to  re- 
ceive the  smallest  comy)ensation  Air  his  pains  either.  It 
is  not  pleasant  to  hear  wholesale  condemnation  of  the 
Chinese  race  from  people  who  know  very  little  about 
them ;  all  Chinese  are  not  Boxers,  and  if  my  experi- 
ence with  tliat  merchant  will  tend  somewhat  to  modify 
anyone's  opinion  about  tbom,  I  shall  be  .satisfied.  The 


340 


WITH  THE  TIBKTAXS 


old  lama  wlio  \va«  to  afooiiipanv  iiir  to  iIip  iioaro-t  ?  - 
lion  under  .Ivekuiulo  jurisdiction  iiitiniatod  that  ho  was 
ready,  ;.()  I  hade  good-hye  to  those  who  liad  l)el'r'  nded 
uie,  and  winding  orr  way  around  a  Iiigh  wall  built  cn- 
lircly  of  wliiir  iitinii  stunt-,  inserilnd  with  tlie  niv<tic 
rurmula,  (J  iiKtiii  iKidim;  Inun,  we  pau-od  before  the  old 
man's  house  to  tell  his  relatives  where  he  was  '-oni". 
After  thai  we  followed  the  crystal  stream  a  short  dis- 
tance, and  then.  cro~siiig  it,  >toi(pi'd  beside  a  tent.  I 
was  given  an  abiding  plaee  in  the  shelter  of  a  hu^e 
stone  which  protected  me  from  the  cold,  while  ilu  sun 
shed  its  genial  warmth  about  me,  and,  as  almost  all  the 
nalives  were  at  the  fair,  1  had  no  idlers  lounging  around 
from  curiosity.  Thus  lor  hours  I  j-nt  ahtnc  reviewing 
the  past  days  ami  ])lanniiig  the  future  ones,  still  en- 
joying the  respite  from  strain,  and  having  no  fear  of 
such  treachery  as  had  almost  h'd  to  my  doom  (lie  la-t 
time  1  had  received  an  escDfl  rroin  a  chief.  The  old 
lama  bulled  my  tea,  and,  wiiii  kindness  sui)reme. 
bronght  his  rug  out  and,  settling  himself  not  far  from 
me  for  the  night,  guarded  me  fmm  harm  and  danger. 
This  may  have  been  due  to  the  respint  and  civility 
shown  those  who  are  traveling  on  a  passport,  for  when 
a  traveler  has  tihi.  the  iieojtle  an'  supposed  to  watch 
over  him  and  his  belongings  to  insure  safety  against 
thieves. 

Jyekundo  is  two  days'  journey  from  Rashi  Gombf 
■but  we  P]ient  three  days  ^.fler  we  left  the  old  man's 
tents  in  reaching  the  town,  and  I  did  not  at  all  object. 
The  first  day  was  a  long  one,  for  we  traveled  from  carlv 
morning  until  almost  dark,  through  beautiful  countrA' 


A  KIM  i:\ltl.V  (  II  IN. \  MAN 


III  plaro  iloiiiil  wiiii  iifi'^  ,inii  iilii'i'iKili'l V  iiiMuntain- 
iiii-  anil  lc\rl.  W'l'  liiniliid  in  tiic  afteriuioii  witli  two 
travi'lci's  known  to  my  lama,  one  a  well-to-do  merchant, 
till'  otliiT  a  nun.  ^^<MMl-l,,nkin-.  >priglitly,  and  appar- 
ciitlv  wry  (Icvdtidiial.  diliLic  iillv  iniinililiny  pravcr.-,  jjut 
icady  wlicnrMT  ihv  iK'-ind  oppmi unity  taiin'  to  take 
her  share  in  the  convorsution.  They  were  on  their  wav 
ill'  l''i:r,  liiit  uLic  camping  for  the  night ;  so  they 
liail  |iil<'il  llu'ir  liii,L;-.u^agc.  iiidstly  tsiniilni  and  tea, 
ami  taken  shelter  in'side  it.  Tiicy  wviv  hotli  wrli- 
dressed.  had  silver  l.titmba  hasins.  silver  mouiii.d  kiuvc.-. 
etc..  and  were  on  very  familiar  terms  with  eaeh  other; 
uhiie  .Mo^'uii'.  a>  the  iiicii  called  the  nun,  cii(|i:ci  i  i.-lilv 
re>ented  the  teaming  i-lie  received  from  (jiic  of  those  who 
liad  accompanied  me. 

Another  interesting  woman  played  an  important  part 
i'Muir  eveniii;,'"s  eiitertaiiiiiient.  for.  having  jmsscd 
ihroiigii  tangled  eopseuood.  we  reai  lieil  a  group  of  tent,-, 
at  one  of  which  the  men  called  and  in  aii.-wer  a  woman 
came  forth.  She  was  about  fifty  years  of  age,  with  an 
intensely  i)lea>ant  face  and  ehal■al■te^i^tic  manner,  her 
head  crowned  with  discs  of  aiiiher.  lier  liair  n  itli  streaks 
oi'  silver  in  it,  iier  ,  .iiids  decked  with  jewels.  Her  lius- 
hand,  the  government  steward,  was  avvav,  so  she  held 
the  reins  of  autliority.  and  wlieii  my  pa  jiort  had  been 
examined  amidst  cousiderald"  friemllv  discussion,  dur- 
ing which  the  Ka.-lii  lama  was  often  menlioned.  she 
invited  us  to  select  a  camping  spot.  Meanwhile  she  re- 
paired to  her  tent,  almost  immediately  returning  with  a 
hra.-s  teapot  wrnu^lit  in  e!:riMus  and  elaliora'f  ilcsign, 
lilled  with  milk  tea  which  she  proffered  for  our  refresh- 


WITH  THKTIBKTAN.S 


iiiL'iil.  "ihv.  old  l.iiiui  iliiii  gave  niu  over  to  her  caiv,  a<l- 
juriiig  Ikt  to  iimkf  buru  that  1  should  Ikj  protecttul  from 
lliL'  ilug>,  ami  when  all  was  amicably  suit'  he  with- 
ilivv.  to  I  111'  tent:-.  'I'lu-  ilnvr  (it'  ii>  iu,uW:  u.  Awa  as 
I uml'oilabli;  as  jin.-.-iliK-  I'ur  linj  iiigiil,  alllioii-ii  wo  were 
much  sturtk'tl  by  tiog.s  ami  Mi-oplu  niiining  aljuut  iu  ua 
excited  manner,  bei  au.-e,  as  we  learned  from  one  of  our 
iiu  u  who  wi'iit  to  iiKiuii,',  Hhtc  were  jn  njilc  camped 
beyond  the  cop.-e  who  were  L«iippused  to  be  rubbers,  aud 
the  chief  ha<l  ordered  an  investigation  to  bo  iiiado  by 
the  tent-dwellers  in  the  vicinity ;  hence  the  confuaion. 
Ill  the  iiioi  iiin^'  luo  ^niidcs  liaviiiLj  returned  to  I'ashi 
(Joniba,  1  was  supplied  witli  an  escort  (•oii>ist in;,'  of  a 
raau  and  his  scm  who,  as  is  the  custom  with  ula,  led 
me  to  the  tents  where  the  latter  was  to  be  supplied, 
and  in  I  heir  turn  left  me  with  >!  raiii,'ers  in  an  extensive 
plain.  That  ni^^lil  was  as  uiieunirortable  as  any  1  ever 
spent  among  the  Tibetans.  Jt  was  raining  and  snowing, 
and  as  the  natives  did  not  wish  to  sleep  out-of-doors 
beside  me,  they  jiroM.h  d  me  with  a  largo  heavy  native 
woolen  rug.  and  went  theiiiHivcs  i  to  '^eir  tents  to 
Awii,  leaving  me  outside  entirely  a.  me,  th(mgh  tiiat 
is  nnnsual  when  one  ha.s  nla.  iie  doi:-.  nvcr  a  '  »zen  in 
iMiinber,  Iar,i:c  and  I'e;  ious  on  di.-c  .  rod  I  w"^? 
a  foreign  cli  nirnt  near  thi  ir  home,  ,  '  .  at  in- 
tervals during  the  niglit,  1);irking  aroui  ratcli- 
ing  at  my  blankets  and  jumping  upon  mc  «  krpi 
well  covered,  with  a  hand  grasping  the  '  li.. 
one  if  he  venturi'd  too  pear  my  lic  id  i  ffh 
one  who  is  being  hnnted  |o  ilic  death,  and  :il  ,] 
for  help ;  but,  though  the  [>eople  heard  the  dogs  un- 


A  KKFKNDI.Y  CHINAMAN 


349 


(ltr.-tno<!  wliiil  was  wrmi^',  tiny  Iniilcil  riic  not,  and  1 
could  hear  thorn  laughing  and  talking.  Ab  far  as  they 
were  cont'orned  1  might  have  Un-n  torn  iind  bitten,  but 

iii'iriiiii^'  rmiail  iiic  ^at'l•.  Soon  iiftcru ,i r^l  1  left  witli  one 
man  and  a  yak  for  JyC'kundo.  and,  iiaving  truvoleil 
about  three  hours,  wo  suddenly  saw  eultivated  lii'ids. 
which  to  mo  were  the  harbingers  of  peace  and  safety. 
A  groat  joy  possessed  my  lu-art,  lor  months  had  passed 
tiinoo  last  I  saw  sudi  marks  of  civilization. 

The  town  of  Jyekundo  was  not  far  from  the  little 
farms.  Tuniing  abrui)tly  into  another  valley  we  saw 
the  liriLjIlt  wall-  of  the  laiu.i.-ery  mi  tlie  L-iimmit  of  a 
t-teep  hill,  at  llie  foot  of  wliieii  wa.-  the  s('(  ular  pari 
of  the  town,  made  up  of  houses  -uhslanti.illy  built  of 
mud-brick,  with  flat  roofn.  the  whole  reminding  one  of 
a  beehive,  for  the  natives  were  busy  useending  and  de- 
scending tiie  iiieliiie  between  the  town  and  a  clear  placid 
river  flowing  bolow  it.  'I'lie  valley  was  level  and  fairly 
green,  droves  of  )'ak  were  resting  and  grazing  in  it, 
while  throngs  of  travelers  were  coming  and  going  all 
the  time,  ail  reminding  me  of  tlie  old  scenes  at  Tankni-. 
We  wended  our  way  across  a  little  bridge  sj)anning  the 
river,  and  up  into  a  street  upon  which  opened  court- 
yards and  a  few  shops. 

The  Tilictan  with  mc  did  t)ot  know  the  wherea!)(»ul s 
of  Kia  (Jhong-kuci-teh's  house,  so  he  stopped  in  the 
center  of  the  street,  and  quickly  a  crowd  of  Tibetan 
men,  women  and  children,  with  a  few  Chinese,  sur- 
round mc.  I  could  get  no  one  to  direct  me  to  the 
mere  it's  home,  as  all  seemed  afraid  to  help  mo.  so 
I  showed  my  pa?sport  from  the  Ka.-lii  lama,  ml  asked 


.'5:.n  WITH  THETIBKTANS 

for  a  room  to  <]w(>I!  in  for  a  fow  davs,  tlic  mun  who 
WUH  my  t'st'ort  spoontliiif;;  the  (It-maiid  bt'cauKo  he  waa 

ill  a  liuifv  ti)  Ira\i  .  ami  yi  (ouM  not  (liiiiij)  niy 
lu■(l(lill^^  whuii  \\a.-  carrifti  uii  lii-:  yak.  iiitu  the  .-trc't. 
The  abbot  of  IJanhi  (lombn  Pet'mtd  to  bi-  inudi  ru- 
KjK'otcd,  and  sovi-ral  of  the  natives  endeavored  to  find 
soiiifdiic  williiiH'  to  jfivc  1110  a  lod^xin;,'.  snccccdiiiix 
fvciitually  ill  ^  a  nmm  in  the  Ikhiic  of  an  old 

man  to  wlioi,  .  nii^ril  two  ni|K'i's  for  tin'  use  of  it— 
every  ('hinnni.i.,  around  helpinjj  to  ku'tiii/  the  priee. 
Followed  i»y  a  iiintl.  v  nowd.  1  made  my  way  to  the 
hoiiM'.  till'  I'noiris  of  uhicli  were  huilt  arnimd  a  ciMilia! 
eourlyard,  on  our  >idi'  two-storii'd,  on  all  tlic  oil.  >• 
hides  flat  roofeil.  I  fonnd  that  a  corner  room  had  Immmi 
allotted  to  nil'.    Around  the  walls  huiijr  iiuartcrs  of 

llt'td"  and  dri'-.--cd   r-llrr|i.  mi  oih>  >idl'  WCro  llcaprd  |lr,|(!~ 

d'  aiiiii;al-  am!  pili  -  i<\'  wool;  hut  when  tlic  room  liad 
heen  swi  pt  ai  1  my  rii^  -pivad  on  the  floor,  tlioii;jcIi 
there  was  no  uiiidou  and  no  furnitnre,  I  felt  that  I 
had.  at  lea>l  for  a  iVw  day>.  a  resting'  place.  Otic  never 
knows  how  the  evil  intentions  of  men  may  hv  tran>- 
formed  into  hles.sings,  when  the  ultimate  issue  of  their 
actions  has  been  made  known.  When  the  jruides  led 
me,  not  to  .lyekiindo,  hnt  to  Ha.-hi  (Joml)a  in  order  to 
cheat  .  1  ilid  not  realize  that  only  j^ood  would  be  the 
outcome,  but  I  was  thankful  when  I  stood  for  two  hours 
in  the  streets  of  Jvekundo  endeavoring  to  get  an  al)id- 
ing  place,  that  I  had  not  been  bronulit  there  hv  tli 
two  men.  In  that  case  T  should  have  heen  withoul.  the 
passport  that  really  proved  to  ho  the  srt:iiiiie. 
Among  the  people  crowding  about  were  two  Tibetan 


A  FUlKXniT  ClIf.VAM.W 


Wiiiin  II  M.  '1,11  int\,  u  Kii.'  -km.  ri'-v  (|ic"K-.  j;,,<m1 
ft'aturi'>,  |)li'n!.ant  maniu'i-,  I't  ■  i  '-.'li  frown- 
an  I  lM'.l..(  kr(l  witli  jewt'l>.    Ti,.     ,  .  > 

willi  tlif  Chiiic-i'  incrclianl-.  ulm  aiiiniri'il  linni,  .nul. 
ttiiitrarv  t<>  tin-  custom  ni  the  liiili  r">  own  cyimt'-v.  wiTi- 
familiar  with  thcni.  TIic  lutuw-  I  lo(lf;('(J  in  iK-lon^ffd 
ill  I'iirt.  if  itnt  whi  !v.  t..  <iii((  of  tlic-f  w.inp'n,  wIki 
inuld  -|,ciik  .(in-i.lci  .il)|c  lliiii<'M'.  iiii'l  who  liad  l„'.'ii 
imicli  liked  In  llio  Cliiiirx'  cilifial  who  had  iuvii  tita- 
tionod  thoro. 

T'm-  town  !ia-  maiiv  dilfi'iviit  iiaiiio.  F  have  hoard 
it  caUcd  ,  dn.  .[■•dd  iiiHi  .lyi'kn.  t!ioii;:ii  .l  v(''kimd(i  i.-, 
I  lulicvr,  ihc  ((.rrcct  iiaiiif.  It  lias  an  altitude  -tf 
h't't  accord injr  to  IJockhill.  is  situated  at  the 
coiiHuoiicc  of  tuo  .-in'aiii>  whose  waters  empty  into  th- 
l>re  Ciiu  nut  far  frum  it,  ai'd.  Intri  Mi.T 
laiiiaMTV,  has  a  ,-cltle<l  iMi[iiihitinii  of  nearlv  uiie  tliuii- 
pand,  and  a  floatinjr  one  nf  several  lunidred.  It  is  of 
^'reat  (.  iiiniereial  importance,  hnilt.  as  it  is.  at  the 
junction  of  -fvcral  !ar;ri'  i-oad>.  radiatia^'  in  ditTnvnt 
direct  ion.-,  the  jjrincipal  one  of  which  lead-  to  'I'a- 
Chien-lu,  the  second  to  Xapch'i'k'a,  while  otlier>  lead 
to  Cliamdo,  Sunjrpan,  Sining  and  Tarchoo.  The 
Chiiic-e  iiiercliants  who  n-ide  at  (.'kundo  iiatior, 
Hour,  tea.  toliacco.  ehiiiawarc.  cotton  (loth,  thread 
huttons  and  nnl  leath(  r.  exehan-in;,-  them  for  furs,  gold 
dust,  musk,  drufjs,  dorr  horns  and  wool.  Tlioy  find  the. 
trade  prolitahle,  hut  do  not  enjov  life  at  Jvckundo  on 
account  of  the  cold  weather  and  the  pnnarious  po>ition 
of  all  foreigners  among  the  Tlhctans,  who  are  so 
changeable  and  often  violent. 


362 


WITH  THK  TIBETANS 


In  this  town  W.  W.  Roekhill  met  with  no  little 

trouble,  for  tlio  cliiff  iiiforincd  the  natives  that  if 
tiioy  sold  him  food  tlic  iiioiR'y  he  jxavo  tlicin  in  pavmont 
would,  through  llie  foreigner's  subtle  power,  be  drawn 
l)ack  to  himself;  hence  they  were  forbidden  to  have 
any  communication  until  he,  tiie  poiiho,  .-hould  return 
from  a  conference  with  another  chief  as  to  wliat  course 
they  should  pursue  towards  the  unexpected  and  unwel- 
come stranger.  In  the  meantime  the  friendly  Chinese 
])ersuaded  Eockhill  to  leave  for  Ta-Chien-lu,  before 
the  chiefs  reappearance,  otherwise  he  would  assuredly 
bo  compelled,  however  unwilling  he  might  be,  to  re- 
trace his  steps  to  the  Ts'aidam. 

Eminently  different  was  my  sojourn  in  .lyeUundo. 
The  Chinese  tniTchaiils  accepted  me  as  one  of  their  own 
countrymen,  anil  vied  with  cme  another  in  endeavoring 
to  make  me  as  comfortable  as  circumstances  would  per- 
mit, one  of  them  sending  me  by  hi?  servant  a  large  dish 
of  m'irn  with  inent  and  vrf^eiabh's. 

The  morning  after  my  arrival,  amid  cojisiderable 
confusion,  my  roo'h  was  entered  by  a  man  whose  face 
betrayed  at  once  that  he  was  a  Mongol,  looking 
very  faTuiliar  among  the  Tibetans  who  had  accom- 
panied him.  To  my  astonishment  and  gn  ^t  pleasure, 
he  addressed  me  in  Sining  Chinese,  and  when  1  had 
answered  him  in  the  same  tongue  he  turned  triumph- 
antly to  the  bystanders,  saying,  "She  is  in<leed  from 
Sining.  for  Ikt  words  are  Sining  words  "  lie  then  tnld 
me  that  he  had  been  ab.sent  from  home  wlien  I  arrived 
the  day  previous,  and  had  quite  resented  the  informa- 
tion given  him  that  a  Chinese  woman  from  Sluing 


A  FKIEXDLY  CHI  NAM  AX 


353 


was  in  Jyekundo,  and  having  coim'  t'xpivssly  to  prove 
that  1  was  not  from  Sining,  was  amazed  to  recognize 
niv  (lialt'cl.  His  lidnic  was  near  Tankar.  and  he  had 
(•nine  1(1  .lyt'kuiiilo  as  intiTjirctiT  t<i  tl:i'  Chinese 
otlirial.  liail  married  a  Tibetan  woman,  to  wlioni  lie 
had  become  so  attached  that  the  thought  of  parting 
brought  him  paiii.  and  lie  was  waiting  until  she  and 
their  small  fniiiily  of  chihlrcn  couM  accompany  hiiu 
to  his  ohl  liome.  In  the  meantime  he  had  otlicial  rank, 
and  was  acting  in  connection  with  the  Amban's  govern- 
ment at  Jyeknndo.  Calling  me  his  relative  and  guest, 
lie  cniistitutcd  himself  my  prott'ctor  and  friend, 
llierchy  rendering  me  services  that  can  never  lie  ade- 
<|iiately  acknowledged.  Wo  had  scores  of  acMpiaint- 
ances  in  common,  for  his  ancestral  home  was  in  a  little 
lamasery  on  tlie  Ilsi-Iio  in  tlie  vicinity  of  oiir  old  home, 
and  I  was  able  to  give  him  the  first  reliaiile  account 
that  he  had  had  of  the  Mohammedan  rebellion,  the 
devastation  by  the  rebels,  and  the  wonderful  foreign 
;.Mins  and  torpedoes  wliiih  helped  so  etliciently  to 
<]ueuch  the  ardor  of  the  II iiri-h  iiri. 

In  the  absence  of  the  Chinese  oliicial  the  ab- 
bot of  the  lamasery  was  almost  supreme  in  au- 
thority, l)ut  my  desir(>  to  personally  interview  Iiini 
•  lid  not  prevail  against  the  stringent  law-  forbid- 
<ling  women  to  enter  tiie  lamasery  except  once, 
annually,  for  the  purpose  of  worship;  so  my  con- 
ferences were  carried  on  thron-h  my  Mongol  friend, 
for  snch  he  assuredly  proved  liiiii~elf  to  be.  I  gave  him 
particulars  concerning  the  robbery,  and  Mr.  Rijnhart'i 
Uivslerious  disappearance,  which  he  considered  due  to 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


his  Iiaving  Iklii  uumk'R'd,  i'i>r  hi'  .-aid  the  ualivus  of 
Ga-Jc  have  a  nputatioii  for  being  dillicult  to  restrain, 
iTUoI  and  tnatluious  in  an  ixtriiuc  Wiicii  1  asl<ed 
that  an  iiive>t iirai ion  .-limihl  he  uiadi'  in  the  latter  hj- 
cality  the  chief  .-aid  lie  hail  no  rf>i)on>ibiiity  or  au- 
thority in  that  region,  and  during  tlie  absence  of  tlie 
Chinese  oflicial  nothing  coidd  be  ibme.  that  Sining 
would  have  to  l)e  notilii'd,  and  the  Amban  \\ou\i\  [h'V- 
sonally  -end  an  e.\pedition.  r>y  seiuling  up  niy  two 
C'liinose  [M-.-pMits  and  the  Tibetan  one  I  had  received 
from  the  liashi  hinia,  1  impres.-ed  upon  him  my  rigiit 
to  an  e.-eort,  and  a^k^'d  iiini  to  provide  nie  witli  means 
to  travel  in  .-afety  back  to  my  home  in  Taukar;  l)Ut  be 
saiil  that  he  was  sorry  that  such  an  arrangement  was 
beyonil  his  power,  for  the  road  was  so  infested  by 
brigands  that  a  mtv  large  e-i'ort  would  be  reijnii-ed  to 
j)rotect  me,  ln'.-idi's  the  fact  that  tlie  trails  are  im- 
passable in  winter. 

The  districts  under  the  juri.sdietion  of  the  Slu- 
ing Amiiiin  extend  only  to  Kansa.  two  .lays'  joui'- 
ney  from  .lyekundo  uu  the  road  to  Ta-eliien-lu, 
hence  the  Tibetan  chief  could  not  be  responsible 
for  my  being  kindly  treated  in  the  provinces  of 
Dcrgc  and  llorba,  whieb  are  ninler  Sze  Cbuan  gov- 
ernment. I  had  to  adopt  careful  laetio  to  iniluce 
or  comiicl  him  to  make  provision  for  my  safe  jourmy, 
and  emphatically  said  that  unless  he  would  give  me  a 
good  ]>a.-sp()rt  and  an  order  for  iil",  I  would  wait  in 
.lyekundo  until  the  ('hin<>se  otlicial  arrived  from 
Sining.  As  the  liouide  caused  by  the  Frenchman'j 
murder  was  frc;h  iii  their  minds,  and  my  hubband'd 


A  FRIEXDT.Y  OTfTXAifAX 


355 


t'iito  was  mikunwii.  tln'  .-iMiot  wnuld  nut  luivo  iiu  rc- 
iiiiiin  in  his  locality  for  any  consideration,  so  with 
till'  ai<l  of  my  Muiiiinl  rririul.  (irxi^rd  means  I'm'  'iiv 
I  iMvcliiiL''  ill  .-.-ilVtv  l<>  China.  Tlic  Cliiiic-i'  morcliant- 
were  all  in  tiic  iiiiilst  of  liicir  inn>t  prolitable  trade,  and 
none  of  their  caravans  were  leaving  except  one,  that 

was  to  be  , '^".t       T        place  to  place  l>y  hl^i  h!-  in  t'l.' 

vMi'lons  towns  ;\]<m'^  tlic  roiu  ■,  and  m\<^hl  lie  di'laycd 
a  month  in  a  place  waiting  fur  transport  animals;  so 
Ihey,  even  Kia  Clioiitj-l-iiri-frli ,  conld  give  me  no  help, 
'{"lie  chief  sent  tne  prcM  iii-  nf  Uninhn,  l)utter,  straw 
r.ii'  niv  li(ir-e  and  nicai  liiai  1  liad  tn  ;:ive  awav  liecanse 
from  its  odor  it  did  not  ])romi.-e  to  be  very  palataide, 
ami  nianifestecl  his  interest  in  niy  welfare  by  not  per- 
miitiiiLT  nil'  to  pay  any  rent  for  the  room,  as  I  was 
eiinsidrred  an  otlicial  ,i;iu'st.  Soon  a  jiassjxirt  was  rea.dv 
fur  me.  and  literally  translated  read  as  follows: 
"  Passport.— This  foreign  lady,  traveling  to  Ta- 
Ohien-ln.  l»y  the  sn])reme  order  of  the  above  great 
])erson,  tlic  c'li.'f  (if  every  place  through  which  her 
uay  leads  nuis<  dilig<>iitly  sec  to  it  that  sh(>  is  provided 
with  escort  to  accompany  her.  The  lady  has  no  horse. 
She  arrived  at  Jedo  on  the  first  of  ninth  moon,  and 
lca\i's  (111  the  tenth  of  tentli  moon.  Passport  and  ula 
given  by  three  chiefs  to  Sze  Cliuan  Kansa."  The  seals 
of  three  chiefs  were  to  he  allixcd  to  the  ilocument  to 
give  it  greater  weight,  and  the  chic."  said  that  no  one 
on  the  road  wonld  a>snme  the  re^pi.iisihdity  of  refii-ing 
to  condnct  me  safely  beyond  liis  section,  so  J  v.-mild 
reach  my  di>>t iiiat ion  in  ]ierfe( .  security.  Having 
changed  enongh  of  my  Imllion  •silver  to  give  me  a  suf- 


350 


WITH  THE  TIBETAXS 


ficient  number  of  rupoei?  for  my  journey,  he  sent  me 

his  lest  wi.-;he«  for  peace  on  tlie  v.iiy.  and  tlio  intor- 
protor,  the  o.-cort  with  fh''  nln.  ;i!m1  my-clf  rode  out 
of  the  town,  across  tlio  river  and  i>oauliful  phiin  into 
the  main  road  leading  from  Jyckundo  to  Ta-chien-lu, 
a  very  hir<Te  wide  traih  Varied  were  my  experiencei' 
during  t;  •■  niontli  I  sp(Mit  in  reaeliin,:^  t!ie  Cliine-e 
border,  sometimes  so  thrilling  tha'  1  doubted  wlietlier 
I  sh;ir' '  "ven  yet  moot  my  death  in  Tibetan  wilds, 
separated  liy  long  stretches  of  eountry  from  the  two 
who  liad  been  so  much  to  me. 


chapti:k  XXIV 


MOBE  UOBBEBa 

From  Jyekiindo  to  Kansa— Difficulties  with  Ula — ^At 
the  lloii'.  of  the  (;iml)i — Corrupt  Lamas — Attacked 
by  Drunken  Uobbers — Deliverance. 

The  parallel  upoi)  which  Jyt'kundo  is  sitiiatoil  marks 
a])])ro.\iiiuitfiy  tlic  bouiKhiry  line  bi'tween  the  (ii^tricts 
of  Tibet  ^^)veniecl  by  the  Amban  at  Sining  and  those 
under  the  jurisdiction  of  the  Governor-General  of  Sze 
Chuan,  ami  though  Jyekundo  is  the  most  northerly 
military  post  there  are  several  to  the  south;  three  of 
these  are  on  the  road  which  I  was  to  follow  to  Ta- 
ehien-lu,  one  at  Kanze,  one  at  Dao,  and  one  at  Tai-lin. 
A  colonel  with  a  small  numljer  of  soldiers  is  stationed 
at  each  post.  Though  they  have  no  authority  over  the 
Tibetan  chiefs  they  report  to  Ta-cliien-lu  on  the  condi- 
tion of  the  country,  so  that  should  there  be  any  diffi- 
culty brewing  troops  might  be  dispatched,  and  thus 
avoid  a  struL'glc  that  niiglit  cud  iu  great  blooilshcd. 
lu  the  district  governed  by  Sze  t'huan  the  position  of 
the  Chinese  officials  is  a  very  precarious  one,  and  great 
tact  must  he  used  by  them  in  dealing  with  the  natives 
who  consider  the  Chinese  as  inferiors  in  courage  and 
endurance;  but,  in  the  portion  '-nder  Sining  super- 


358 


WITH  THE  TIBET  A  XS 


vision  the  natives  fear  the  Amban  and  Ihc  Chinese  sol- 
diers to  11  sm-jirising  extent;  lieiici-  it  is  that  the 
Ambiin's  iiutliority  is  ini(|iicst ioncd.  X(>\ crtlu'loss  tho 
("hiiicso  Tiiiiij  Shili  always  cxtTcisos  iIr-  utmost 
])riulenee  in  settling  any  trouble  among  the  Tibetans 
when  tlie  ('!iiiU'so  govcniment  acts  a,-  arhitrator,  or 
when  it  rxcrts  its  ;i;ithority  or  cxai  t-  iinlcnniitics.  Mv 
^Mongol  friend  al  ./yOkundo  assured  iiie  tlial  {'.w  all'air 
of  Dutreuil  de  lihins*  death  had  eaused  the  Amban  and 
Ids  >t(  wards  great  trouble,  (w  the  Tibetans  thought 
tliey  -hdiild  •  ,r  coinpelled  to  pay  such  a  larg(>  in- 
deiiinily  as  was  deiiiaiuled,  especially  a-  ii  reduced 
them  almost  to  penury.   But  the  Amban  is  supreme. 

Kaii>a,  or  Sze  Cluiaii  Kaiisa.  as  the  iiati.es  fre»iuently 
cnl!  it  to  distill/,  aish  it  from  the  tmvn  Kanze  in 
llorha  district,  which  is  often  called  Ho  Kanze,  was  the 
destination  of  the  interpreter  who  accompanied  me. 
Being  all  well  mounted,  we  rode  quickly  along  a  fertile 
valley,  where  soiii(>  f  the  natives,  men  and  women 
alike,  were  in  the-  fi-lds  doing  harvest  work,  looking 
after  flocks  and  gathering  fu  1.  That  day  I  saw  for 
ihe  first  time  a  Tibetan  woman  able  to  read.  My 
-Moii.uol  friend  had  to  g.'t  the  seal  nf  a  chief  stamped 
on  my  passj)()rt  as  we  traveled,  hul  instead  of  limiing 
him  camped  where  he  sujjposedly  was,  we  found  the 
men  of  his  tribe  were  moving  his  tents  and  goods  to 
another  spot,  for  we  met  part  of  the  .avah-ade  on  their 
way.  The  chief  had  gone  ahead,  hut  his  wif(>  was 
there,  a  rosy-cheeked,  good-looking  young  woman  with 
a  profusion  of  ornaments  on  her  h?ir  ,ind  hands,  and 
mounted  on  a  black  horse  with  several  men  in  attend- 


MORE  ROBBERS 


359 


Mice.  Tho  intpr]irt'tor  introduced  mo  to  her,  gave  her 
ihe  pii.v-|M)rt  iiikI  ;i  l.it.T  from  the  Amban  at 

Sininj;',  whicli  hail  ju>t  arrivcil.  i-i'lativ(>  to  mhiii'  tril'  I 
ililliciiltics  lint  far  in  \vii'"ii  hi>  rcpn'Sfiitat ivcs 

were  a^'ked  to  he  ariiitrators.  She  read  them  both, 
(•oniinented  in  an  'ntcllip-nt  jnanncr  upon  tliein.  nodd"d 
^niod-liyc  and  rode  on  to  ovrrlakr  'he  rcniaindci'  of  tln' 
caravan,  taking  witli  lii'r  the  pa-sport,  wiiich  tiic  iff 
stamped  and  sent  back  to  iis  in  the  evening.  We  spent 
the  niirht  in  a  miserable  diri\  litth'  shanty,  niiiin-  door- 
and  windows,  near  a  lari^c  lion>c  over  which  floated 
jiiaver-Hags  galore,  and  not  far  away  was  a  .-mall 
lamasery.  We  had  to  wait  some  time  for  tea  and  fuel, 
because  the  women  were  all  away  digging  rlionin,  and 
ilic  men  wonld  not  nndcr  any  consideration  lower  their 
dignity  by  carrying  water. 

Tlie  chief  sent  me  presents  of  tsaniba  and  butter,  at 
which  the  interpreter  was  much  pleased,  for  he  .said  it 
angured  well  for  niy  jonrney  to  get  full  di-lie-  of  anv- 
tbing  the  lirst  day.  Thf  wumcn  came  home  late  in  the 
afternoon,  tall,  swarthy-cheeked,  and  skin-robed,  but 
kind  and  friendly  without  that  tiresome  curiosity  tha* 
eliaraclerizes  the  Chinese.  That  night  1  liad  five  of 
tlii'm  slc'ej)ing  just  outside  the  door  of  inv  roo)n  in  ac- 
cordance with  the  custom  that  iravcders  with  iiln  must 
have  a  proper  guard,  but  the  interpreter  said  I  was  hon- 
<ired  in  having  so  many,  information  wlucli  I  doubted  a 
little,  for  might  it  not  bavt>  been  a  heiief  that  numher- 
incrca-H'  safi'ty  that  led  so  many  to  six'nd  the  niglit 
beside  the  foreigner?  Their  merry  voices  were  heard 
long  after  we  had  retired,  a  custom  which  we  found 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


common  amonj,'  the  Tik'tans,  and  finally  I  Im  i  to  in- 
tiTlcrc.  nr  their  ixciiinicnl  in  ^iinrdin;;-  me  woiiM 
liiiM' l)rc\i'iitr(!  iu\  .-hiiiilM'i--.    I'cjir  uT  ilii'iii  I  had  imi,  . 
In  tin'  iiinriiin-  uur  nl,i  hor.H's  vwrc  larilv  in  (■oiuiiiy, 
Iiut  at  lar^t  wo  wiTc  stnrtcil  awny,  having  hccii  joined 
hy  a  good-iiatiuvd,  {genial  hiiiia,  who  was  also  to  have 
iihi    lnHaiisc   lie    ua-   tra\i'liii^'   wiih    IcM.t^    rn.iu  a 
hutldha  whicli  dciiiaiiilcd  ha>if.  and  lif  proiiii>fd  the 
intcrprt'tiT  to  help  iiu'  on  the  road  ho  far  as  he  could, 
'i'hcrc       in  the  valley  thiua-li  which  we  passed  ati 
"//'/  lliat  !iiai-ks  the  rxact  hni'dd'  hrtwcca  Siaiii^c  and 
Sze   C'huau  territory,  and   there   roijbcr.-   liave  been 
accustonu'd  to  dart  out  of  the  hills  m  either  side  upon 
caravans  unfortunate  enou<,di  not  to  k?  well  guarded. 
The  ap]iroaih  to  Kan^a  i>  throuj:!i  a  narrow  vallcv 
through  wliich  cmirscs  a  .-treain  lined  on  cither  side 
l>y  evergreen-dotted  hills,  while  in  the  swiuestcred 
nouk-  ii(  >tie  the  black  teuis  of  the  sparse  inhabitants. 
'I'hc  phuc  ii-rlf.  wliii  h  we  reached  in  the  afternoon  (d' 
llie  second  (hiy,  is  a  mere  hamlet  containing  several 
mud-brick  hous(>s,  conspicuous  among  which  were  the 
Hading  depot-  of  (  liin,  -c.  and  Horba  merchants.  Here 
ihrou.irh  iny  Mongol   fiiend   I   received  nhi,  which  in 
ihis  instance  v,a^  a  young  girl   who  .-hoiiidered  my 
whole  load  and  trudg(>d  away  with  me  to  a  large  house 
some  distance  down  the  stream,  where  another  woman 
acted  as  escort.    Tiie  lama  that  had  iilti  went  ahead 
of  me  and  left  orders  at  every  stay*'  for  my  ula,  so 
there  was  no  delay  whatever  with  the  change.  Our 
road  lay  along  the  Dri'  Chu,  quiet  and  strong,  pursu- 
ing its  course  towards  the  Yangtse  and  thence  to  the 


MOUE  nOBBERS 


361 


spa  nt  Shan;?hai.    Hat!  I  at  last  lorae  upon  the  sight 

ol'  waters  thai  iiiailc  tlioir  way  to  lliu  saiue  I'acitir 
llial  wa-ln(l  lilt'  >li(>rc.-  dl'  my  nalivf  laibi?  TIhiu-Ii 
liu'  lattiT  was  ^lill  ili(iii.-aii(l.~  oi  milfs  ^ll^tant,  yul 
(.ivilization  and  safety  began  to  Joel  near,  unil  1  wa.s 
Sonietinies  we  were  on  preeipitous  hills  hun- 
dreds of  Tcct  alin\i'  tlic  i-i\iT,  the  iiatrnw  ])alli  wliercvcr 
-liaded  Ixiiig  cuvered  with  ice  ui  places,  to  prevent  a 
fatal  slip  on  which  the  natives  had  scattered  ashes. 
\t  other  times  our  pathway  led  us  tlirough  glen.s  of 
iiiarvrlous  l)eauty,  wImtc  tier-.  iiiii.v.-.c.-,  fci'ii.-  and  crecp- 
t  r>  united  to  make  bnwi-i;-  '  ea>tles  that  our  iuuigiiia- 
tioM  i)eopleil  to  suit  il.-e  .  'le  we  (iuici<ly  wound  in 
and  out,  zig-zag,  among  higli  rocks  and  boulders.  Just 
Im  Iow  one  of  tiioe  lieautiful  spots  we  pas>ed  over  part 
nf  the  country  that  the  yi'ar  [)revious  iiad  been  tlic 
Mciie  of  tragedy  tlirough  on  eartlKjuake,  in  wiiitli  a 
large  monastery  and  several  small  hamlets  had  been 
1  implitelv  buried.  The  harm  had  been  almost  coiii- 
ph'tcly  ((Miliiieil  to  tlie  soutli  bank  of  tlie  river,  whicli 
liad  to  a  certain  extent  made  a  new  bed  fur  itself;  for 
the  whole  mountain  side  with  large  trees  and  tons 
of  earth  iiad,  wiihoul  uariiiug  and  with  loud  erash.^s 
id.r  ihuiidcr,  sped  on  its  iH'adh>n,>^  course  straiiiht  to 
the  Ijcautifui,  eahii  river.  Hundreds  of  people  were 
killed  in  that  catastrophe,  of  which  the  natives  spoke  in 
subdued  voice  and  with  tender  pity  for  the  lives  and 
iiou.-es  that  had  been  lost.  In  the  general  deMioUtion 
the  great  cvravan  road  was  destroyed  f  :  miles,  and 
as  there  is  no  provision  for  the  repair  or  making  of 
roads  in  Tibetan  econc^       '  velers  had  succeeded  in 


3152 


WITH  THE  TIBETAN'S 


wearing  ii  litiK'  foofimth  in  llic  midst  of  tlic  upturned 

trtr-.  <^Vi\i[  nirk-  .iiiil  iiihcr  dfUri?.,  crowiiing  tlic 
1  liniiix  III'  ililiiniltv  ii\  |ii'r|)cinli(  iilar  a-rnil 

to  till'  ..r  ii  lull;  llu.  uIimIc  ,-l.lr  ul'  llic  Inild 

iilon;,'  till'  rivcT  had  di>aii|M'ari'(l,  iniving  ni)  spaif  for 
(■\cn  a  r(Mii|iaih  nn  tiif  \)nuk. 

'I'lif  dav"-  li'avcl  ua-  tliii-  iinc\|H'r!r(ll\  ili;llriill  ain! 
iiln   liad    litrii   iliaii^vd   MVrral    tiiiio.     Al    dark  1 
rcadii'd  a  village  where  f  expet  ted  to  remain  over  niylit, 
Imt  thoiigli  the  mail  ulm  \\a>  tiaveliny  willi  ula  \va- 
rotinj;-  in  one  of  llic  iHiim-   ih,.  native-  ivfii-cii  i 
allow  me  lo  remain,  Imt  .-I'lit  lur  (,iiiikl\   alon;^  tin' 
river  with  a  nmall  boy  and  girl,      in-  that  not  far 
auav  tilt  re  were  some  farm  houses  win  re  I  eould  lind 
>lieiter.    '['lie  muon  was  >liinin;,'  Ju-t  llic  >aiiu'  a-  >lic 
rormurly  ^lloIle  at  Taukar,  and  the  rememliranie  of  llie 
tender  tiiought  and  eare  exereised  over  mo  in  those 
da\>  made  the  icfusil  of  ivfiigc  at  dark  all  the  more 
]>iiinfiil.     As  u.'  joiinityed  uii  tlir  ^irl  tnld  me  that 
there  were  no  lion.-es  until  we  had  i)a>.-ed  tlie  i-.ou 
tain  that  looked  to  be  miles  away,  so  1  ri.-ked  all  m 
ifluriied  to  the  village  where  1  had  reeeived  the 
the  (liildfeii  ^iiidiiiL;  me  to  the  Iioum'  where  vu 
man  wlio  iiad  helped  me  on  from  Kaii>a.  Kvidei, 
there  was  some  unusual  antipathy  to  Kiiropeans  tliere, 
for  he  (jnietly  told  me  not  to  say  a  word,  but  inter- 
ceded with  tile  natives  to  give  me  shelter  in  the  straw 
I'oom,  to  whicli  tliey  brought  fur  my  um'  a  little  lire 
in  a  shallow  earthenware  dish  and  ^ome  tea,  while  an 
old  white-haired  man  brought  a  felt  rug  and  lay  down 
near  me  for  the  night.   The  following  day  it  was  many 


turned 
g  tl»' 

('  lead 
(■(•  fur 

h  ,11;.! 

ark  1 
iii^lit, 
V/  vva- 

■ci! 

I-  th.' 
ot  far 
(I  iiiul 

1>  >llr 
t>i'  liH' 

thosi! 
more 
"  tliiit 

•.111!': 

II  a. 
(.  ■ 

In. 

the  IV, 
inter- 

>tra\v 
(•  life 
lie  an 
down 
many 


lioiirs  U-fori'  1  ronclipd  a  house,  the  roa<l  '.'as  pnitly 

iir~tr>ived  and       "laiiLici'iii-  :i-  to  iicco-'iiiite  walkiiiiC 

the    ua\.    Illl'l    I    r.:ili/.il    till'    ili'litll    t wlliill  ill-' 

villa;;iTs  iiad  iiKaiil  to  liaiiii  luc  iii  .-t'luluig  :ic  allrr 
dark  alonj?  that  momitaiii.  for  nearly  the  whole  nifrl't 
would  have  ln'cii  -[it'iit  hi-fori'  ivai  !iiii<.'  the  oiln  i  -m!  • 
iM  ~a!'rt\,  if  I  (■"iild  lnn<'  ar(  nm|ili-hed  it  at  ah.  'I'ln' 
lir.-t  laiUM'  we  .-ijilitrd  ua>  tii"  Iwn.ie  rl'  ihc  ii'irvniaii. 
and  was  l)uilt  on  a  |><  i  j>(  iidicidar  hlulT  in  a  sheltereil 
corner  where  the  Dnishi  Clin  winds  on  iti^  way  to  the 

Dl'e  Cllll.  W.'  had  collic  into  the  iTirioii  of  lio:its  ai'.l 
hriihri's  whii  ii  to  u.'^  Wiie  welcome  lierahls  of  greater 
i'aeiliti's  of  transit  than  are  found  in  the  interior. 
The  ferry  eonsisted  of  a  eoraelo  slMped  liki<  a  tui», 
ahoiit  live  feet  ill  diameter  roiii|"...'-'d  (d' a  l!iiii-v  frame- 
work ovrr  which  were  dnivvi)  yak  hides,  and  manip- 
ulated hy  a  'I'llictan  with  a  hroao,  strai'dit  ita(hlle.  A 
large  pile  of  tea,  done  up  in  raw  hides,  was  waitin;: 
for  yak  to  (dine  and  carry  it  to  Kaiisi,  wliil"  >onie  men 
;nid  -Itccji  were  lieiii;:  ferrii'd  over  the  river  in  a  .^ei'ond 
c(naclc.  My  rrund  wa:^  l)ll^y  ii  ikinj:  his  terms  with 
llu'  ferryman  when  I  arrived,  and  upon  readiiif,'  my 
passport  the  latter  refused  to  carry  me  ai  m-s  ln'cau-i' 
there  were  no  liuu-e<  in  tiie  vicinity  on  ilie  other  side 
of  the  river,  he. li  e  iio  »//".  and  lie  di(!  '  a  v.  to  take 
any  responsihility  eoncerninjr  me  iie  ■>  enrdin^'y 
sent  me  up  to  hi>  Ivmie  on  the  hlntV.  v,  !iere  i  reMi.ained 
for  two  dav-.  while  he  found  out  wliat  (oi,i-~e  t,.  ]iur-ne 
wiiii  re.i^ard  to  taking  me  across  the  i  'er.  A  li'Me 
Itird  with,  a  red  hrea^t  made  itself  at  home  chirpinj? 
fearlessly  about  the  straw  on  the  veranda  where  1 


.",04 


wiTii  riii-:  i  ir.KTANs 


Mi'pt,  but  it  wai«  tho  only  friend  that  made  oxortiuc?. 
for  lilt-  women  wvre  biisv,  and  except  for  occasioiuil 
visits  to  \)vi\ii:  int'  (k'liciou>  tcii.  tliev  rci!i:iincil  in  their 
own  apartments.  Al'ter  tliat  L-i'ii  t  re>t  I  di  parled  wiili 
iilii  which  was  chan;,n'd  at  a  well-to-<lo  i'arnierV  Iiou.-c. 
whiMV  were  srvciiil  Lima-  and  ;4(io(l-|(iokiipj;  women,  vvlio 
all  treated  mi-  with  pi^d'oiiiid  iv-peit  u[)nii  !lie  pernsal 
of  niy  passport,  and  alter  having  given  me  tea  an<l 
hainba,  one  of  the  latter  set  out  with  mo  for  the  chiefs 
honie. 

Following  the  Ure  C'hu  we  reached  tlie  village  wliere 
lived  the  [wnbu,  who  alone  had  authority  to  give  uie 
ula  for  the  other  side  of  the  river.    He  was  building  a 
new  house,  and  an  army  of  worker.-,  .-iiiging  as  they 
toiled,  were  busy  carrying  ttu'  sand  for  the  walls  and 
roof.    There  1  had  to  pay  a  email  toll  for  my  pasr- 
across  the  river,  and  order  for  ula  on  the  other  side. 
The  ue.vt  morning  with  an  old  nun  1  made  my  way 
down  to  the  ferry  on  which  ^(Uiie  lamas  v.'ere  being 
taken  over  with  several  loads  of  baggage,  amoi.g  which 
were  some  beautiful  cushions  and  rugs  such  as  we  had 
seen  in  Kuinbum.    I  entered  the  boat  with  the  priest, 
li>  do  which  We  had  to  remove  our  lioots  and  step  into 
watiT  over  our  knees:  moreover.  I  wa-  imt  permitted 
to  wear  my  hat  during  the  cros-iiig,  proI»ably  from 
some  superstition  regarding  it.    Having  been  paddled 
nut  1o  tile  center  ')['  (he  ri>ef  the  frail  structure  was 
caught  by  the  current,  waftid  to  the  other  shore,  atul 
was  then  carried  on  the  feiryman's  back  a  certain  di.s- 
tancc  up  the  stre  im  to  I)alance  that  which  the  current 
liad  wafted  it  down.    Tho  passengers  had  paid  their 


MORE  ROBBERS 


365 


farot^  bv  means  of  butter,  churma  and  tea,  which  the 
lioatmanV  family  quarrt'Icd  over  wliik-  I  sat  waitiiiir 
for  luy  ///(/,  wliioh  proi-cnlly  arrived  in  the  unexpected 
form  of  a  donkey,  an  animal  which  is  in  common  use 
in  that  part  of  Tibet. 

I  was  iiuw  fairly  started  oii  my  jduriiey  with  via 
along  the  iiortli  (if  the  Drc  C'liu  towards  Ta-cliien-lu. 
and  the  days  sped  on,  one  almost  the  counterpart  of 
another.  The  nomads  and  villagers  were  exceedingly 
friendly,  and.  though  I  was  never  permitted  to  enter 
their  liomos.  they  gave  me  a  corner  on  a  veranda  or  in 
a  straw  room,  and  adequately  made  up  for  their  ap- 
parent inhospitality  by  supplying  me  with  an  abund- 
ance of  te(<  and  some  coals  in  a  shallow  dish  to  keep 
it  warm,  all  i)f  which  came  through  the  influence  of  my 
pass[)orts.  But  if  iila  is  good  for  one's  j)ursc  and  in- 
creases one's  safety,  it  is  more  than  trying  to  one's 
patience,  for  the  Tihi  aiis,  having  no  idea  of  time,  are 
in  the  hal)it  of  starting  in  the  morning  on  a  journev. 
When  I  reached  their  homes  at  mid-day  they  made  all 
sorts  of  excuses  to  have  me  stay  till  the  following 
morning.  Though  sometimes  my  ula  was  changed  as 
frequently  as  tliree  or  four  time<  in  a  day,  some- 
times just  as  often,  when  1  had  only  been  on  tlie  road 
two  or  three  hours,  my  escort  placed  nu'  in  the  hands 
of  others  at  a  tent  or  house  and  returned  to  their  own 
homes.  Though  1  useil  all  niv  powers  of  persuasion  it 
was  impossible  to  move  tlie  imperturbable  calmness  of 
the  natives,  who  said  there  could  be  no  ida  until  the 
day  following,  and  so  I  had  to  be  content  to  spend  the 
largest  part  of  the  day,  when  I  should  have  been  travel- 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


ing,  in  wailing,  waiting.  My  food  consisted  only  of 
butter,  tscunbu  and  lea.  and  luy  >tiviigth  was  fast  wan- 
ing, so  imicli  M)  that  I  I'clt  a  littk'  more  speed  was 
iiii|ierative  il'  1  were  ever  lo  reaeli  Ta-eliien-lu  alive. 

The  province  through  wliich  T  was  traveling  was 
Derire.  the  weidthiost  and  iiio-t  ferliie  of  Eastern  Til)et. 
I'lir  there  the  natives  are  >!dneil  in  metal  work,  and  the 
seals,  hells,  teapots  and  other  articles  niaiuifactiired  !)y 
them  find  a  ready  sale  and  command  higli  prices.  They 
are  almost  independent  of  either  China  or  Lhasn.  and 
have  a  particular  antipathy  to  the  Chim^-e.  wIm  find 
residence  in  the  province  almost  impos,-il)le,  in  fact 
the  Imperial  government  has  had  difficnlty  in  keeping 
peace  in  that  part  of  its  dominion.  A  Tibetan  ollicial 
I'rnm  I,ha-a  ua-  (in  hi-  way  through  the  province  at 
the  same  time  as  I  was  myself,  and  it  was  rather  sig- 
nificant to  see  the  natives  keep  away  from  the  high- 
ways to  avoid  falling  in  with  his  retinue,  for  the  sol- 
diers with  him  would  demand  everything  they  could 
!-ee.  even  the  very  swords  an<l  horse>  they  u>cd  on  the 
road.  Thus  authority  was  repudiated.  ]\Iy  iila  people 
were  most  frecjuently  women,  i)ut  occasionally  a  whole 
gnuip  of  •  ouiig  iiDvs  and  girls  came  along  with  mi', 
taking  the  very  hot  care  of  me,  and  returning  to  their 
homes  with  other  ideas  of  fon-igners  than  they  had 
previously  had.  Some  of  the  otHcial  rest-houses  ahaig 
the  road  had  no  ))eopk'  living  in  them,  and,  as  a  rule, 
my  escort  took  me  to  inliahiti'd  homes,  where  the  little 
ch'ldren  and  the  wonu'ii  shed  some  ])lea^nre  into  niv 
lonely  heart.  Occasi  mally  I  had  a  little  difficulty  with 
my  escort,  and  where  this  was  so,  as  a  rule,  the  people 


MORE  ROBP.EKS 


367 


where  I  ^,l(>l»l)e(l  were  uot  overly  kind.  Two  young 
boys,  one  of  whom  was  a  lama,  resented  traveling  with 

iiu',  and  cvcrvone  we  iuft  at  fir<t  was  stopped  and  IdM 
.-lurring  things  about  tho  rorei.LnuT :  but  when  I 
asserted  my  autliority  and  conipolled  ihvm  to  go 
>traight  p  ist  all  traveliTs  on  the  road,  they  were  very 
angry,  but  .laivd  not  ol)jc'ct.  Tliat  nigiit  I  had  a 
nii-cly  painted  room  with  a  rai.-cd  bed  to  sleep  on,  and 
some  of  the  women  l)egge(l  .several  of  tlie  buttons  oil' 
my  gown  in  exchange  for  butter.  The  following  day 
tlie  ^-anie  boy  traveled  with  nie  from  early  morning 
until  dusk,  for  ail  people  on  the  mad  ri'I'u-ed  to  aeeefit 
the  responsibility  for  iiln,  and  though  hp  did  not  wi.-ii 
to  travel  so  far,  I  did  not  dare  allow  him  to  return. 
\\  itIiout  stopping  even  for  tea  l)y  the  roadside,  we  passed 
on  through  pretty  glens  and  valleys  past  villages  and 
lamaseries  to  (iosa  (iondta,  a  large  momistery  with 
l)rayer-wheels  around  the  outside,  where  he  place<l  me 
in  a  large  house  in  the  hands  of  an  old  man,  ghnbi,  a 
name  gi\.'n  to  the  one  who  manages  ul,i  in  a  place. 
Tliere  lived  the  chief  of  a  new  district,  to  whom  the 
gimbi  submitted  my  jiassports.  I  remained  there  two 
days,  and  was  glad  to  c-,  ape,  for  there  was  great  difli- 
eulty  in  restraining  the  lanias  particularly  the  younger 
ones,  who  came  in  crowds  up  the  stairway  and  threat- 
ened to  push  curiosity  and  impudence  into  violence, 
a  daiiirrr  that  was  averted  by  the  gimbi  and  several 
old  nuns  who  lived  with  some  of  their  children  in  the 
roonis  not  far  from  me. 

The  morning  I  left  Gosa  Gomba  was  beautiful,  the 
sun  shining  brightly  on  the  frosty  grass,  and  playing 


368 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


upon  tlu'  fiilcled  turrets,  tiled  roofs,  and  painted  walls 
luul  prayiT-wlu'  iS  about  the  monastery.  Rustic  l)ri(lges 
spaniiiiii.''  ilif  stri-aiiis.  wlu-ro  were  clustered  the  Iiouies 
of  farmers,  on  wliich  prayer-ttags  were  waving  in  the 
breeze,  added  an  unwonted  charm  that  was  enhanced 
by  the  Ioiil:  piles  of  wliite  rnaiii  stones,  the  stacks  of 
straw  and  the  llock.-  of  <:oats  and  sheep  making  tlii'ir 
honeycoml)  paths  all  over  the  liillsides.  A  lama  rode 
beside  me  for  a  space,  with  drum  and  hell  on  his  hack, 
on  his  way  to  some  village  to  chant  prayers  and  "  beat 
the  drum."  Soon  my  cxort  led  me  pa-t  an  immense 
cliortcii  at  the  junction  of  four  valleys,  to  a  large  farm 
house  perched  high  on  a  hill  whence  no  persuasive  pow- 
ers of  mine  could  procure  a  continuance  of  my  journey 
that  day.  Imagine  my  feelings  when,  in  conversation 
with  some  women.  I  learn".!  that  the  '/inihi  had  .  nt  me 
along  a  little  footpath  instead  of  on  the  i)ig  caravan 
road,  and  that  by  pursuing  this  path  T  would  be 
months  in  reudiing  tlie  CliineM'  border!  My  strength 
was  waning  and.  fi'aring  it  would  |)rove  insutVicient  for 
such  a  hmg  journey,  1  went  with  my  ida  the  following 
morning  hack  to  the  fjimbi,  who  was  absent  when  I 
arrived.  While  I  av, aited  his  return  a  young  lama 
amused  a  crowd  \\!io  .-tood  aliout  us  hy  ridiculing  for- 
eigners, especially  my^clf,  even  molding  immba  into 
obscene  forms  that  I  refused  to  notice,  and  I  was 
thankful  when  I  saw  th-  tjimJii  appear,  i  hough  he  was 
surpriseil  to  see  me.  Having  onlennl  straw  for  my 
horse  and  tea  for  iin>elf,  he  listened  patiently  while  1 
told  him  my  reasons  for  returning  to  Gosa,  and  showed 
him  the  map,  pointing  out  to  him  several  places  on  the 


MOIU-:  nOBBERS 


309 


l.irgo  (.aravan  road  that  I  wis-hod  tu  [)ursuo.  1 
refused  to  go  the  small  road,  where  I  was  entirely  de- 

pc'iidi'iit  on  till'  who  could  soiid  nu>  wheri'vcr 

ihi'v  \\i>Iic(l.  a>  1  Wduld  lint  know  where  1  was.  Ili' 
insisted  that  lie  eonhl  not  <,Mve  nie  itin  on  the  big  road, 
hut  I  wai<  equally  intiistent  upon  going  that  road ;  so. 
towards  afternoon,  afraid  on  account  of  the  turbulent 
l.inias,  as  corrui)t  men  as  1  had  ever  seen,  to  allow  nii' 
lo  remain  over  niglit.  he  started  nie  oil  to  a  little  vil- 
lage on  the  big  road  and  the  escort  took  mo  to  his 
own  home.  Here  men  were  threshing  barley  in  the 
(oiirtxard.  two  on  each  >i(le  with  their  flail>.  who 
alternately  sang  Oin  inaiti  padmr  Innii  as  thev  raisi'd 
and  let  fall  the  old-fashioned  threshing  instrument. 
It  was  a  pretty  harvest  .scene,  which  the  children  en- 
jMM'd  as  miii-h  as  1  did.  as  I  sat  in  my  (|iiarl(Ts  under 
a  veranda  in  one  (orner  of  the  courtyard,  dccidiiiL'' 
to  wait  for  one  of  my  escort's  relatives  whose  honi" 
was  in  Kanzc  in  the  l[orba  district,  and  to  which  place 
he  would  uo  with  nic  in  onler  to  manage  my  iila  mop' 
•  luickly  tlian  I  could  my.-eir.  That  same  day  a  dark 
faced,  strong  t'luiiaman  \\alked  into  the  courtyard 
hire  o.xen  to  travel  with  him  and  his  o  panions  over 
the  pass  to  Zochen  (ioniha.  1  called  him  to  me  and,  after 
>ome  conver.sition.  he  brought  his  father,  uik  and 
their  apprentici .-,  all  journeymeii->miths  on  their  way 
from  Jyekundo  to  Tai-lin,  three  days'  journey  front 
Ta-chien-lu.  Tiny  had  s])ent  t!  ■  Mimmer  in  Tibet,  but 
were  going  to  China  for  the  cold  winter  months,  'i'he 
old  man  was  kind  and  full  of  .sympathy,  and  was  in- 
clined to  acquiesct  in  my  desire  for  one  of  them  to 


WITH  THE  T1UETAX8 


tr.ivi'l  wiili  iiic,  liut.  owing  to  ihv  iVur  ot"  robbers,  eon- 
chulcd  we  had  bcttrr  remain  together  until  we  had 
passed  llir  ilan-croiis  ])Iac('s,  and  in  the  meanwhilo 
ihi'V  wuuld  lu  lj)  inc  i!i;iiki,i;i'  my  iila. 

Oni'  whole  diiy  and  pait  of  anotlier  day's  traveling 
to<;ether  hroufrlit  ns  to  an  encampment  of  fifty  tents 
a  Incil  cliiiT  lived,  and  where  my  iila  was  to 
he  chan-ed  uliili'  my  Chinese  I'l'iends  went  on  to 
Zoilien  (iondia.  'I'iie  une\|ieeted  hapiieiieil  ju>t  tiien, 
for  the  chief  said  unless  I  wont  throe  days'  journey 
away  to  get  the  seal  of  the  Derjje  othcial  stamped  on 
mv  ])assporj  he  had  no  pnuci'  to  ui\e  me  nhi,  and, 
notw itiistandin;:  h!u!T  attempts  and  gentle  persuadon, 
1  found  that  my  iia,~-port  was  of  no  value  there.  Koel- 
injj  that  the  Chinese  siidths  \ver(>  n^ady  to  helj)  me.  I 
ahandoneil  all  hoj)es  of  n'n.  kimwinii  that  >peed  wuuld 
more  tiian  compensate  me  for  tlu>  loss  of  my  ollicial 
e>eort,  and  made  my  way  to  the  house  where  the 
Chinese  had  <juarters  on  a  veranda,  a  corner  of  winch 
tiiev  yielded  to  me  for  my  occupatinn.  This  Imiire 
was  one  of  a  cluster  of  stone  and  log  structures,  the 
homes  of  some  Chinese  and  natives,  built  on  a  small 
stream  hy  which  several  prayer-wheels  in  little  wooden 
liouM'-  along  its  cnur-e  were  revolved.  High  up 
almost  perpendicular  \)a{hr  is  the  hima.-ery  of  Zoclien 
(Jomha,  where  reside  over  two  thousand  lamas.  The 
landlady  slept  out  on  the  veranda,  accompanied  hy  her 
young  son,  a  lama,  who  insisted  upon  his  mother  sing- 
ing Tuany  songs,  entertaining  us  with  -weet.  weii'd 
music  away  into  the  night,  as  \\>  :\>  giving  her  son 
pleasure,  that,  ou  account  of  hi>  life  as  a  laraa  he 


MORE  ROBBERS 


371 


fould  very  rarely  havp.  Evcrytliing  was  now  changed 
Tor  nil',  and  tht-  Chinor         uiili  one  another  in  tr\- 

\\\'^  to  iiiiikc  II!-  (•(iiiir(irt;il)li'.  'I'liis  to  iiic  was  proof 
lliat  tlie  loving;'  i'aihrr  \va.-«  caring'  I'nr  lonely  lilt!.' 
(hild  that  th  very  day  that  my  i(a>>|)ort  was  refused 
recognition,  two  ( 'liiiianuii  had  agreed  to  travel  with 
me  down  to  'I'a-cliicn-l ii.  This  uoiiM  rciliicc  not  only 
my  (lunger,  for  tiiOM'  >iniths  iiad  lieeii  years  in  the 
country,  and  I  had  implicit  confidence  in  the  Chinese, 
but  would  also  reduce  the  length  of  my  journey  per- 
luijis  l»y  a  niontli. 

The  weather  was  extremely  cold,  and  several  nights 
we  had  to  sleep  outdoors.  One  night  1  had  my  feet 
frost-'  '!  r  n,  and  as  a  result  T  suffered  for  nearly  a 
year,  i  iie  men  were  carrying  all  their  tools,  bedding, 
etc..  on  their  hack.  and.  as  we  Journeyed  in  coinjiany 
with  a  hirge  party  (d"  traders  across  a  higli  mountain 
pass  which  is  infested  with  robbers,  the  two  who  were 
to  go  ahead  with  nie  >liniililcrc(l  niv  godd-.  ilumgh  we 
all  remained  togetlier  iiinil  we  reached  iJuiig  Ital-a, 
where  my  six  men  regaled  themseivi's  freely  with  wine, 
filling  my  heart  with  terror,  as  they  and  the  Tibetans 
in  the  house  hecame  very  dnnik  Itefure  the  carousal 
niy  Chinamen  had  M'ciirely  f.i-teiied  their  mniiev  in 
scarfs  about  their  necks,  and  th<'  landlady,  as  each  tuie 
liecame  overpowered  by  the  lifpior,  gave  them  their 
-II  I  |iing  places,  and  there  was  no  longer  any  fear. 

In  ihal  locality  we  i-rosM'd  ihe  Za  Chu  iiiid  followed 
our  way  .--Iraight  across  the  country  through  villages, 
meeting  on  the  way  thousands  of  yak.  loaded  with  tea, 
and  passing  some  carrying  hides  and  other  articles  of 


372 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


trade  on  tlioir  way  to  Tii-i  liieii-duo,  a.-  ilic  iiaiivc.»  tlieiv 
(allt'd  Ta-ehii'ii-lu.    The  nu'ii  woiv  well  drossod,  and 
their  hom-s  were  dmmited  with  brijjht,  ^ay  tiapinng-. 
W'v  met  l'iv(nuMilly  pnirr-.~i(»ii>  nf  I. una-,  one  of  wIkhii. 
(livs.H'd  in  yellow  .siliii  with  yellow  hat  and  liaving  a 
large  rcliiuie,  belrayed  his  rank  of  '-living  huddha." 
The  country  was  dotted  with  villajics  and  .<iiiali 
lamasviio.  and  cultivated  fields  worked  i)y  primitive 
wooden  i>lows  in  the  hand?  of  men  and  women,  at- 
tested the  induftry  of  the  luople.    On  top  of  the  pro- 
montory or  steep  hill  jutting  out  into  a  bond  of  the 
Za  Chu  wa>  seen  the  beautiful  ;,Mliled  roof  (if  the  Xyara 
(iomba,  and  a  little  furtber  on,  beyond  some  deep  cuts 
ill  the  road,  is  Kanze,  a  large  \>Uuv  composed  of  the 
homes  of  laymen,  and  a  large  lamasery,  Kanzego,  with 
a  beautiful  Chinese  temple.    Here  W.  W.  Koekhill  had 
met  witli  trouble  from  the  turl)uleney  of  the  lamas, 
and  my  guides  led  mo  straight  past  the  place,  for  they 
said  there  were  such  strained  relations  between  Tibe- 
tans and  t'binese  that  the  latti-r  were  almost  rn  nin.'<.<c 
eonipellcd  to  withdraw.    This  place  is  o'  e  of  the  lar^r- 
est  in  the  ILorba  .-lates,  which  are  next  in  wealth  ami 
size  to  Derge,  in  Eastern  Tibet.    Xotwithstanding  the 
antagonism  of  the  natives  to  Cliinese  and  foreigners, 
they  were  very  interesting,  and  withal  even  charming. 
They  were  bettor  looking  and  as  a  ride  better  dresseil 
than  natives  in  other  parts,  wearing  a  jirofusion  of 
ornaments  in  silver  and  gold.   The  men  are  drc-.-til  in 
/;«/«,  or  colored  drilling,  have  llu'ir  hair  mainl\  dune 
in  a  great  queue  which  they  adorn  with  bright  rings 
and  twist  about  their  liea  l>.    Tlie  bn-ach  of  thi.  nin 


MORE  ROBBERS  373 

and  the  sheath  ot  their  swor^l  are  decorated  with  h1- 
vor,  coral  and  ^^ir.n  ,Umv..    'Yh.  women  ol ton  wear  a 
1  u-'e  cU^u  of  silver  on  their  forehead  and  ^ometimes^on 
,h  "back  of  their  head,  and  hoth  sexes  carry  from  their 
-Mrdles  silver  needle  eases,  flint  and  .teel  hoxos  a,.. 
occaMonallv  an  embroidered  cloth  ea^e  for  their  Isamba 
bowl.    Thi'v  are  exc-.-dingly  hostile  to  the  Chinese, 
who  have  never  until  late  years  been  allowed  to  live 
even  in  comparative  peace  aninn-  them,  and  Uiouf;.. 
Chinese  -iTu-ials  are  stationed  at  Kanz.',  Chan-ko  ami 
Dawo,  tluv  have  pnutieally  little  power,  and  for  ihe.r 
.owardiee'are  despised  by  the  Tibetans,  who  disdain- 
fully  hold  up  the  little  finger,  whieh  designates  the 
height  of  inferiority,  and  say  that  the  Chinese  othe.al 
at  Dawo  is  afrai.l  even  to  step  outside  ..f  his  own  door 

for  fear  of  a  dog. 

The  fir«t  town  of  importance  we  reached  after  pass- 
ing Kanze  was  Chanj^o,  which  is  huill  on  a  steep  slq,o 
overlooking  the  Nya  Chu.  while  on  the  lulls  above  he. 
the  Chango  C.oniba,  inhabited  by  over  two  thonsand 
hunas  who  enjoy  the  reputation  of  being  desperately 
unruly  and  bad.  On  account  of  the  preddiet.on  of 
tiuse  lamas  to  quarrel,  my  guides  led  me  around  this 
,,1,,.,,  after  having  st.^pFd  at  a  small  lamasery  o 
Luv  some  extra  tea,  because  tea  leaves  are  so  highly 
prized  by  the  natives  in  this  locality,  that  ™-  j 

r«  use  them  instead  of  nmnoy  to  pay  for  fodder  and 
V,a<^l  -  as  vou  can  obtain  more  for  a  little  tea  than  for 
,,/tuiies  i'ts  value  in  silver.  Shortly  after  leaving 
Chango  we  saw  on  the  road  several  drunken  Td.etan. 
who  were  extorting  money  from  some  poor  travelers, 


374 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


wlioM'  viiliiiil)!i'  liir^'i'  (log  llif  I'omor  hud  in  their  jws- 
si's>ion.  Tlicy  wtTc  six  of  a  bod)'  of  lifty  soldiers  who 
hud  Ijt'i'ii  -uiiiiiiiiiiuil  to  i-i)Iii[h1  the  uutivcs  of  CIuiiij^o 
tn  piiy  ihrir  ta\r>,  aiu!  had  that  murninj;  \ivvn  (h.-- 
haiiilnl,  l)Ut  htl'iiie  leaving  tiie  tuwu  t!uy  luid  imbilK'il 
too  fril  ly,  and  us  u  result  were  an  unsiwukable  terror 
to  all  travrliTs  who  foil  into  their  clutc  hes.  My  guides 
(■<)ii;4raliilal"il  llu'in-chc-  u|ion  Iiavin^-  llm-  ca-ily  es- 
caped them,  hut  their  gladne-s  was  pri mature,  lor  while 
we  sat  in  front  of  a  rude  farm-house  we  saw  them 
passing  along  the  road,  and  when  \\  v  wi  re  again  on 
liie  way  we  saw  them  >itti'i^  in  a  little  .^'rassy  .-|)ot, 
ilrinking  more  wine  while  their  ponies  rested  on  the 
grass.  Soon  afterwards,  looking  back,  1  saw  theiu 
galloping  toward  us,  and  a  great  fear  possessed  uie, 
for  'ril)''tans  are  very  (luarrelsome  when  they  are 
drunk,  and  woe  betide  the  poor  traveler  who  is  unfor- 
tunate enough  to  f'll  into  their  hands!  The  older 
one  of  niy  guides  ^  iJ  he  would  drop  behind,  and  if 
we  sIiouM  Ik'  attacked  one  of  us  might  have  a  (luuici' 
to  escape.  J'reM'Utly  tlicy  reached  us,  and  while  four 
of  them  stopped  to  see  what  the  one  hoy  had,  the  other 
two  rode  up  opposite  to  myself  and  the  second  boy, 
and,  halting,  one  f)f  them  said,  i-lmli  i,-' na  dti!  " 
(where  are  you  going?).  The  hoy  an.-wc!  I  iliai  we 
Were  ju.st  going  over  yonder,  which  wa?  a  polite  an- 
swer, but  it  seemed  to  incense  the  man,  for,  grinding 
his  teeth  in  rage,  he  drew  from  its  sheath  his  sword 
and  made  for  the  boy.  lli^  coiniianioii,  who  was  not 
so  intoxicated,  endeavored  to  restrain  him,  but  in  a 
moment  the  six  of  them  were  beside  u.s,  and  one  of 


MOKE  ROBBERS 


376 


thorn  caught  me  roufilily  by  the  arm  and  tried  to  pull 

ine  off  iiiv  iidi'M',  ii^kiii;;  iiic  ulu-ro  I  was  fjoii-.jr.    In  n 
niomciit  nil  r-i\  d i -niuiuitid,  ainl  wliilf  ^oiiif  of  thfin 
•Iraggoil  my  lM)y  liy  llu'  ([ui^iic  tlii>  way  ami  thai,  others 
opont'd  up  hii*  load,  scattering  everything  ahnut  the 
ground,    ^ly  revolver  w;i>  umx'  iliaii  ii^dr--.  fur  they 
ail   were  hravily  ariiicil,  am!  In  liavc  iiucn-' il  tii<'in 
meant  tliat  my  life  uoiihi  have  Ih'cii  taken  sooner  or 
Inter  a!--  a  result.   Anxiously  I  sat  in  my  saddle,  know- 
in;:  that  .ju>t  as  snipii  a-  they  were  through  with  the 
liiiv  tiiey  wmiid  turn  ihcir  attention  to  me.     One  of 
lliem,  who  was  more  sobiT  than  the  others,  motioned 
to  me  with  his  chin  to  go  towards  the  other  boy,  and 
1  turned  my  hor-e  ami  f-(dlowed  his  adviee.  Init  my 
>afi'tv  was  >]iiirl-livd.  fur  ow  id"  tin.'  Tihetan-  re- 
mounted ami  tame  up  in  a  moment  hehiml  me.    1  rode 
astride,  as  all  Tibetan  women  do,  and  as  he  rode  along 
beside  me  his  knee  brnshed  a;:aiii-t  mini',  and.  takin;,' 
h's  swurd  fruin  its  srahljard.  lir  held  the  nakrd  blade 
over  me,  hiilding  me  disnKnint  and  give  him  my  horse. 
I  looked  into  his  face,  that  was  very  near  to  me,  saw 
his  eyes  glassy   from  alcohol,  realized   that  he  was 
scarcely  res])(>nsihle  foi-  his  actions,  anil  my  heart  was 
convidsed.    .\s  a  child  would  call  his  father,  1  called 
aloud,  "Oh  God!   Oh  God!''  and  in  Tibetan  said, 
"  Mart,  man, '  wdiieh  means  "  no,  no."   A  strange  ex- 
pression crossed  tlie  nianV  face,  and  he  put  his  sword 
away,  turned  and  joined  his  comjjanioii.s,  and  in  a 
moment  all  had  galloped  down  the  river,  and  not  only 
was  my  life  spared,  but  I  had  not  lost  auything; 
whereas  had  T  been  compelled  to  dismount  my  horse 


370 


WITH  THE  TIRET.WS 


iin<l  my  hid-lmn  w'ul'l  '">\'' 

WU8  on"  mv  saddle.  <iuite  unexpec  tedly,  too.  n>y  'ril)otan 
gown  and  pot  wtre  not  l(>>t.  for  tluy  wciv  in  tlu'  \o.u\ 
of  tilt"  l>oy  who  sit  ..!!  \\w  r<mil>i<lc.  wliilc  the  olluT 
oncV  loa.i  had  boon  tim.wn  aLonl  and  only  the  tea 
h.avos  taken,  but  ho  himself  lost  a  valuable  sword,  his 
Isnmba  basin  and  pu^^o.  eontainiii-  ilnitv  lupc.s. 

As  wr  >:it  nn  ilir  -r;,--  1  w^i-  ^ilnn^t  „v(T|M.\voivd 
with  U.ankfulnoss  and  j..y  tl.at  my  lifr  and  the  ihinfis 
n.c.lful  ha<l  thus  l)eon  saved,  nor  »an  I  doubt  that  my 
deliverance  was  due  to  the  cure  of  the  Heavenly  Father, 
who  neither  slumbers  nor  sleeps. 


(  llAl'TKK  \XV 


SAFIi  AT  LAST 

The  Approach  to  Ta-i  lii<  ii-lu— M>  ]\>u\  P..  <       -  I  a- 

|;;i,i,t,,,|_l  ,^     \lan  !i<-     wiiii     lili^ti  iv'i     I'l  I'l 

Cliiiu'Sf  ('t)iuvptioii  til"  Kurnpfans— Among  Friuml.-' 
Oiirc  More — Conclusion. 

With  tile  'li.sipiHaraiuu  down  tlic  nvcr  of  the 
hrightl>  accoutred  hor.-'Ci*  and  their  riders  came  a  great 
perplexity,  for  my  boys  had  a  doiir  to  follow  them 
and  endeavor  to  iv-aiii  xnuv  of  liitir  loM  jiropcrty. 
In  the  dr  ;aken,  uuaccountaljli'  condition  i  f  the  Tiln'- 
tiins  such  a  course  could  only  have  been  attended  by 
more  calamity.  Feeling  the  foiw  ol"  thi  iln  y  dc^iivd 
to  return  to  Cliango  and  an  n.-e  t!ie  puilty  oi  es  before 
the  magi.-^tratof ;  but,  upon  renieniliering  that  tin  men 
were  unknown  to  then,  and  also  that  it  wotdd  necessi- 
tate great  delay  in  reachinj;  Ta-clii^n-la,  and  not  hav- 
ing enough  money  to  reiiiil>urse  their  loss,  1  told  thein 
1  was  willing  to  return  to  Chango  with  them— they 
would  still,  however,  have  to  accompany  me  to  the 
border,  according  to  agreement,  as  the  money  had  al- 
ready been  paid  to  their  fatlier.  They  appreeiated  my 
oll'er,  and  also  the  necessity  of  fulfilling  tlieir  father's 
agreement  with  mc,  and  upon  receiving  my  promise 

377 


378 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


to  >u\>\>\\  ihcm  with  luoil  for  llu'  journey,  they  de- 
i  !<k,d  tu  push  on  to  Ta-chien-lu. 

With   characteris-tieally   national   desire   to  avoid 

meddling  in  other  penjilr".--  atl'air-^,  a  Tibetan,  whose 
hou-e  wa>  near  u^  thoiigh  liidden  by  a  lulloeli  from 
view,  eume  up  after  the  f rai  as,  and  olfered  us  the  hospi- 
tality of  his  home.  This  we  gladly  accepted,  as  I  felt 
it  wa-  licttei-  iini  ti,>  ri.-k  meeting  lli">c  men  again  until 
the  ell'i'Ll-  of  the  iitjU'ir  had  worn  away,  as  well  as  from 
the  :  .cl  thai  it  was  late  in  the  aftcruoon,  and  quite 
time  to  rest. 

The  .-eeiierv  along  tlie  road  down  the  river  for  sev- 
eral miles  from  Cliango  is  beautifully  refreshing,  the 
eounlry  being  very  fertile  and  dotted  with  hamlets; 
then,  as  the  river  bonds  .southward,  our  way  diverged, 
to  return  again  to  pursue  its  course  through  mag- 
iiillcent  fore>ts  of  large  timber  on  the  sides  of  moun- 
tains lowering  as  far  a.-  the  eye  eould  see  above  us. 
Another  day's  journey  brought  us  to  Dawo,  with  its 
large  laina.-cry,  the  Xinchung  (iomba.  with  gilded 
roof-  find  il,~  -eeular  part  with  two-storied  houses  liuilt 
on  either  si<le  of  a  stream,  over  which  are  a  number 
of  gristmills.  The  lamas  are  about  one  thousand  in 
number,  and  the  popidaticm  of  the  town  is  nearly  as 
maiiv  more,  of  wliith  over  10  ])er  cent,  are  Chinese, 
some  of  them  being  workers  in  metal.  Houses  dot  the 
valley  to  its  close  below  Dawo,  and  to  avoid  intricacies 
that  might  prove  bewildering  if  not  dangerous,  the 
oilier  boy  and  myself  went  jiast  the  town  to  a  farniei-"s 
house  at  the  foot  of  the  hills,  wlule  the  other  went  up 
into  the  town  to  Iniy  tea.   He  brought  us,  cm  his  return. 


SAFI-:  AT  LAST 


370 


Humc  bread,  wluch  \va>  to  u>  a  delicacy  of  dolicacios. 
tliough  it  had  no  Icavon  of  any  kind,  for  the  staff  of 
life  had  h^^u  nli^'ut  frnni  oven  tli<'  si<:ht  of  our  rys 
for  moiuli>.  Ill  aliiKwt  vwvy  villa-v  llu-ro  were  Chinese, 
iii.i.-i  oi"  wiiom  ha\.'  Ikhouic  almost  naturalized  Tibetans 
in  clothing,  customs  and  even  religion,  murmuring  the 
mystic  six-syllal.lr.l  prayer  (luite  as  faitlifuUv  as  tli^ 
natives  f licnisohcs.    On  tli<'  road  a  lar-e  proportion  ..f 
ihe  travelers  wiioni  we  nu  i  were  also  Chinese,  anvni;^' 
whom  were  even  the  indefatigable  beggars,  who  ap- 
l.arently  would  ha\e  Ix-en  much  wiser  to  have  r.'inainr.i 
ill  their  own  counlry;    tln'V  wore  in  all  jirobaljility 
.■\ilcs  on  account  of  some  crime,  though  many  of  tlicni 
were  very  young.    All  these  Celestials  made  us  realiz.; 
that  \vc  were  every  day  getting  ncan  r  lo  Ta-chicn-hi, 
and  as  my  jtliysicai  stivn-th  wand  niv  licart  grew  inop' 
bunvant  at  the  probability  of  our  reaching  the  longed- 
for  goal. 

Signs  of  earthquakes  are  not  wanting  in  the  valley, 
almo'st  every  hou^e  being  in  ruins,  only  parts  of  the 
sli.nc  walls  standing.  We  pa.-se.l  tlie  corner  of  the 
hill  near  Tai-lin,  having  pursued  the  road  whi<>h 
leads  over  the  Jeto  pass,  as  it  was  l)etter  and  short.  r 
than  the  one  through  Tai-Iin.  whi.  Ii  pla.-e  i-^  largely 
Chinese.  The  second  day  before  reaching  Ta-ehien-ln 
just  after  we  liad  started  from  one  of  two  houses  where 
we  had  spent  the  night  in  a  corner  of  a  courtyard.  T 
was  compelled  to  walk  as  my  hor-(>  beanie  un!h  to 
.•;irry  me.  and  soon  so  slow  in  his  oait  that  he  hini»'lf 
was  a  burden,  .\fter  having  wall<i  d  some  distance  on 
iny  already  sore  feet,  whose  only  protection  was  a  pair 


3S0 


W  ITH  THK  TIBETAN'S 


of  Tiljctan  hoots,  with  >iiii[>iv  one  \d\vv  of  untauiicil 
leather  fur  the  .-ole,  we  re>te(l  ainiilst  the  snow  th;'l 
covered  the  ground  thickly,  to  boil  some  tea  for  our 
[H)ii_v;  fur  the  iiativt's  give  their  liorses  lifjuid  lea,  tea 
h'aves,  l.^dinbu.  r'l  uima  aii'l  at  times  raw  meal  to  in- 
crease their  .-In  Mgili  and  render  them  able  to  pu.'iue 
their  journey.  Sitting  on  f^ome  stones  waiting  while 
the  horse  devoured  fiT.m  our  pot  his  stimulating  meal, 
we  felt  the  >inall,  riin,l)ling  shock  of  an  earthquake. 
A  great  wave  of  disaiipoinlmenl  i^wept  over  me  as  1 
thought  of  the  po.ssibility  of  being  buried  by  a  land- 
slide and  not  realizing  after  all,  the  recently  born 
hopes  of  refuge  and  -afety  in  llie  great  border  town. 

The  ^lage  that  day  wa-  a  long  one,  and  1  walked 
thirty  miles  just  a.-  iiuickiy  as  1  could  with  my  tpeul 
strength  and  !ii i-in'ed  feet,  for  the  soles  of  my  boots 
Iiad  woiii  llirmigii  ill  plan'-.  The  guides  urged  me 
on,  for  we  (oiihl  lind  no  slieller  until  we  wel'e  beyond 
the  Jeto  pa;?,  which  is  about  fourteen  thousand  feet 
in  height.  Wearily  we  eiim!)ed  and  climbed,  the  ascent 
being  at  !ir.-t  gradual,  one  dragging  the  old  horse  wliile 
another  urged  liiin  on  with  my  little  whip.  It  wrung 
my  heart  to  see  the  faithful,  patient  brute  goaded  like 
that,  but  unless  we  abandoned  him  on  the  road  there 
wa-  no  !iel])  for  it.  1  would  fain  care  for  the  noble 
animal  that  iiad  carried  me  without  a  falter  or 
stumble,  far  from  the  regions  of  trouble  and  disaster. 
Xcaring  the  summit  of  the  Jeto  pass,  we  saw  the  road 
lo  Lit'aiig,  winding  \y.\A  liamlels  ilirougli  a  beautiful 
valley.  The  last  p..rc  (»f  the  ascent  was  very  steep  md 
dillicult.    We  found  the  top  crowned  with  a  huge  ubo. 


SAFE  AT  LAST 


and  if  natives  thank  the  s^pirits  joyfully  for  aid  in 
(•limbing  I  rendered  sincere  prai?c  to  my  FuIIkt  tliat. 
ilituipli  \ve;iry  to  aliiui-t  an  t'Ntrriiu',  i:iy  strcugtli  had 
not  rallered,  ami   1  wa?  bcyoml  ihe  mo.-t  laborious 
stage  of  the  ascent.   It  had  begun  to  ?now  heavily  and 
darkne!?s   settled   down   upon    us.  bat   the  ground 
on  citbtT  side  was  ,-o  rou.uli  that  iIhtc  was  no  [ilaic 
where  we  might  lie  down  to  rest;  for  stones,  large  and 
numerous,  dotted  either  side  of  the  road,  while  a  rocky 
stream  and  a  dcii.-e  growth  of  laigc  underi)rush  added 
to  the  dillirultv  of  choovinu'  a  >uitalil('  cainiiinL:  place. 
Here  and  there  we  saw  canipliro  ni'ar  wliicli  wen; 
tethered  large  droves  of  yak,  whose  presence  was  be- 
trayed by  their  black  forms  on  the  wliite  liackground  of 
S110U-.     I'eeling  llie  cxleiil  to  wliieh  the  horse  delayed 
us.  tuo  (d'  us  went  more  <|i!ickly  on  aliead,  leaving  one 
of  the  guides  to  drag  along  I  lie  ^loor  animal,  which 
had  just  as  much  dithculty  on  the  stony  road  as  my- 
self.   Prcsentlv  we  reaciie<l  a  little  ^l)anty  a  few  Feet 
M|uare.  in  the  eenter  of  a  yard  enclosed  by  a  low  stone 
fence,  behind  which  we  saw  a  large  number  of  sad- 
dled yak.   My  guide  a-ked  for  shelter  during  the  night 
— it  was  denied  us  for  want  of  .-pace,  but,  after  pa-s- 
ing on.  we  decided  to  return  and  ask  again,  for  tin' 
road  was  dangerous,  being  simi)ly  a  running  stream 
over  rough  and  uneven  stones.    The  boy  told  me  to 
walk  straight  into  tlie  shanty  ifccausc  1  was  so  well 
dressed  that  I  would  have  more  influence  than  he.  who 
was  just  a  shabby  pck-tsi.    flaking  my  way  througii 
a  gap  in  the  fence  to  an  opening  in  the  side  of  the 
shanty,  which  was  only  three  feet  in  height,  I  stooped 


382 


WITH  THE  TIBETAN'S 


low  and  entered,  calling  out  la-ko.  A  Chinaman, 
j)oorly  dressed  and  dirty  as  a  Tibetan,  tJteppt'd  up.  and 

1  tuld  him  lliat  wc  were  p)ing  to  s|ifinl  tlii'  nij:iil  in 
ihi'  >h;nity,  tor  our  luirM'  was  tirnl  out  and  uiialilf  In 
jirocccd  aii\  Turtlu'r.  He  ohj  \eil  on  the  seori'  that 
the  shanty  was  too  snudl  for  any  more  oeoupants. 
Whrii  1  -aid  he  was  a  Lnod,  kind  man,  !!i,:t  1  wa-  tlior- 
oii^uldy  tircil  out.  tliat  1  iiad  walked  thirl\  miii'-;  tliai 
day  ami  my  I'lrt  were  too  sore  to  go  auollii'r  step,  he 
invited  ns  to  he  seated  besido  a  huge  blazing  fire  in 
Mil'  far  cortiiT:  fur  he  knew  that  did  lie  not  alhiw  u- 
In  fiiiiain  until  mnrniuj;'  we  wnuld  still  have  to  walk 
si'veral  miles  th.ough  the  slu^h  and  ?now.  I  liavc,  as 
a  general  rule,  found  the  Chinese  kind-hearted,  and 
inelined  to  hdp  those  in  distress.  The  little  shanty 
wa>  otdy  a  few  feet  s<iuare.  The  "  entrance.""  devnnl 
of  a  door,  took  up  one  side  of  it.  b  :  su[)pleniented 
by  a  pigsty,  where  wallowed  an  immense  hog.  In 
the  other  side  was  the  rude  fireplace,  just  a  hollow  in 
the  jiround.  and  having  on  eithiM-  side  of  it  barely 
room  enough  to  crouch  tlown  to  rest. 

Our  feet  were  soaking,  and  while  a  half  dozen 
Tibetans  drank  their  tea  and  watc  bed  us  furtively,  we 
three  endeavored  to  gii  dried,  while  the  two  Chinese 
hunbermeu  told  us  all  al)out  the  diilerent  foreigners 
who  were  living  at  Ta-chien-lu.  It  is  not  surprising 
that  there  are  Boxer  riots  in  China  instigated  for  tli:- 
purpose  of  driving  from  their  empire  llu>  forci^-ners, 
whom  they  believe  capable  of  .such  atrocities  as  those 
men  ascribed  to  our  countrymen  in  the  border  town. 
We  had  heard  before  leaving  Tankar  that  several 


SAFE  AT  LAST 


383 


members  of  Miss  Annie  R.  Taylor's  Tibetan  Mission 
Band,   under   tbe  Icadcivliii)  of   ^Ir.   (Veil  Poll-ill- 
TiirniT,  bad  taken  up  work  at  Ta-chien-lu,  and  I  eare- 
liillv  ([ue^tioned  tho.-e  two  men  to  learn  wbetber  tbis 
were  a  fact  or  not.  Tbey  informed  me  that  there  were 
several  families  of  foreigners  living  there,  all  of  v.buni 
liad  large  bouses,  one  with  men  only  outside  the  novtii 
gate,  another  of  tli.'  same  kind  out>id.f  the  south  gate, 
and  one  entirely  with  women  inside  the  town;  all  of 
which  were  Roman  Catiinjic  fstablislimeiits,  th<'  la^t 
mentioned   bring  a   scboo'   k.'pt   liv   Cliinc-c  iJoman 
Catbolie  nuns.    I'iiere  was  yet  anoibcr  family,  tbey 
said,  who  bad  just  arrived,  with  a  lady  and  sen.  '  chil- 
dren.   These,  I  decided,  were  Mr.  and  ^Irs.  Turner 
and  their  co-workers.    The  men  tlicn  proceeded  to  tell 
me  vlmt  the  people  said  of  the  foreigners,  bow  their 
servants  bought  children  on  the  streets  and  took  them 
to  the  foreign   home,  whence   tbry  were  never  seen 
again;  bow  tlif  stran^'e  men  <ouM  look  al  Cbmese 
brass  coins  ami  ebange  them  with  their  evil  eyes  into 
rupees  with  the  head  of  a  woman  on  them.    Xo  one, 
they  added,  was  allowed  to  enter  the  house  to  see  what 
was  within.    1  think,  on  the  whole,  in  now  plaee-^  it  is 
wise  for  missionaries  to  have  their  homes  open  so  that 
natives  may  at  times  see  into  the  smallest  corners,  and 
thus,  as  "  seeing  is  believing."  crush  at  the  outset  any 
ideas  of  mystery  which  heathen  people  arc  only  too 
ready  to  entertain. 

In  the  qr  ^  v.f  tliat  lundier  shanty  my  two  Chinese 
guides  told  the  others  many  things  they  bad  li-arned  of 
foreigners  from  me,  and  the  impression  they  had  re- 


384 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


(civcil  of  the  only  forcijriicr  they  liad  ovor  scon.  They 
('.\))liiine<l  tho  juirposo  of  missioiiarios  in  cnminfi  to 
and  ^cttlintr  in  a  fiir-away  coiiiilry,  mid  said  ilicir  -up- 
port  iliil  not  coiiir  fi'diu  in;ii;ii-,  lnit  fnim  iicuplf  in  ihc 
lionu'liUid,  wild  M'nt  llicni  so  nuicli  salary  a  ynar. 
Xovortlu'lcss  tlio  stran<:<'  talis  that  tlioy  had  heard  did 
not  lesson  their  droad  of  onterinj;  tho  home  of  for- 
ei.uniers  wliuin  none  'if  iis  i;;irw.  fnr  of  conrse  I  did 
lint  even  kiKiw  till'  Cl'iiK-t'  iiniiic  III'  a  <iii^!e  inis-ioiiarv 
in  Ta-t  liii  r,-lii.  and  1  I'elt  really  suriT  uir  ilie  men. 
thoir  droad  was  so  Eronnine,  but  tlioy  had  implicit  oon- 
!■  ill  nii^  ii:!!!  udiiM  Ii.im'  Lfme  any  place  with  mo. 
I  iiiM  thrill  wlifii  in  the  future  tiny  heard  anvtliiiiir 
dispara<;in^-  ahont  missiotiarie-  to  just  rememher  that 
thoy  wiTo  all  as  good  as  I  was,  to  say  the  very  U'ast 
that  could  ho  said  about  thom. 

One  of  the  Innihermen  told  ns  of  a  foreigner  wiio 
had  gone  pa-t  their  chanty  a  few  d.-iy-  previeus  on  his 
way  up  country,  walking  and  earrying  a  chest  of  car- 
])entor's  tools  on  his  l)ack.  while  one  Chinese  servant 
accompanied  him.  The  foreigner  had  given  him  some 
nieilieiiie  t'lir  rlieuinal i^ni.  and  cuuld  >peak  riiiiieso  and 
l.ha-a  Tilietan.  J  wondered  who  it  cmihl  li,-ive  hcen 
ami  found,  when  I  roachod  the  mission  station,  that  it 
was  one  of  the  Tibetan  mission  band,  the  talented, 
bright  Mr.  Amundsen,  who  had  endeavored  to  become 
like  a  native  himself,  and  in  an  nn[)retentious  way  was 
seeking  to  gain  a  foothi'ld  among  them,  lie  was  un- 
fortunately attacked  by  a  drunken  Tibetan,  who  con- 
cluded that  his  bo.x  was  full  of  silver.    Having  been 


SAFE  AT  LAST 


385 


robbftl  of  almost  evcrythiug,  he  had  rcturued  Ity  an- 
other routo  to  liis  liome  in  Ta-i  hieii-lu. 

When  wc  !i;ul  lnul  our  tra  ami  wcii'  tlioroii^'lily  dried, 
we  made  ready  tu  spend  the  niglit,  and  soon  in  the 
very  small  ppaco,  around  the  hollow  fireplace,  were 
crouehed  six  men  and  myself,  while  in  the  yard  were 
several  Tilx'taiis.  My  own  two  men  were  closest  to  ine, 
Init  all  were  within  toiuliing  distance,  and  yet  1  hail 
not  a  tremor  of  fear  of  them,  so  jrreat  was  the  differ- 
onco  between  the  Chinese  hikI  'I'IIm  laii-,  tliat  to  !«• 
with  the  former  meant  [H'rt'eel  freedoni  rnmi  fear  and 
anxiety;  even  thoiigii  llieK'  lumbermen  were  rough  and 
uncultured,  they  were  kind,  and  made  me  feel  their 
sympathy.  A  common  danger  made  u~  all  akin  in  the 
little  shanty,  for  ;it  intervals  was  lieanl  ami  felt  the 
great  riiml)ling  noise  of  earthquake  shocks,  which  were 
sometimes  strong  enough  to  shake  the  roof.  The  lum- 
bermen reoited  on  and  off,  talci-  of  landslides  and  earth- 
(piakes  in  the  valleys  near,  painting  in  glowing  words 
the  beauty  of  the  lumes  so  suddenly  destroyed  and 
the  great  piety  and  devotion  of  lamas  who  had  been 
crushed.  These  recital;  subdued  me  with  quiet  awe, 
and  I  was  thankful  after  the  sleepless  night  to  see  the 
first  streaks  of  dawn,  though  with  them  came  the  most 
violent  .shock  of  all. 

The  sun  was  well  up  before  we  started  to  walk  again, 
an'!  '*s  heat  quickly  melted  the  snow  which  had  fallen 
to  a  di^pth  of  several  inches.  The  road  was  virtually 
a  stream  of  running  water,  in  plu'-es  almost  half  a  foot 
deep,  but  I  cheerfully  splashed  through  it,  knowing 
that  I  would,  after  a  twenty-mile  walk,  reach  a  Chinese 


386 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


inn  or  llic  misfion  t-lation,  either  of  wliidi  w^ulil  provp 
a  Imven  of  re>t.  The  road  was  a  gradual  de-eriit, 
thou^'h  Iii'iv  and  tluTe  wi-re  sliiirji  aMcnts  which  taxed 
my  t.tren.nh  to  tlic  mIIll)^t,  and  at  times  made  me 
almost  de.-i  air  of  reaching  Ta-ehicn-lu  that  day.  But 
on  we  trudged  over  the  stony  road  skirt(!d  on  either 
-ide  now  hy  roiki^,  now  by  cluster-  of  hully  and 
rhododendrons  to  me  nnspeakahly  henutiful,  indications 
of  the  return  of  summer  with  its  lilue  skies  and  balmy 
mount;  n  air.  We  passed  luxuria  it  valleys,  and 
groups  of  hcu.-t--.  ('liiiic<e  in  appearance  and  so  difTer- 
eiit  from  the  homes  of  Tilirtan  auM-iciilt iirali>ts,  repos- 
ing on  the  hillsides  looking  fo  neat  and  iiiviiing.  My 
physical  weakness  and  soro  feet  took  away  much  of 
the  poetry  and  all  the  pleasure  of  the  walk.  Tlic 
Chinesi'  boys  kept  urging  mc  on.  not  willing  that  I 
^hould  rest  every  little  distance  on  a  stone  iiy  the  road- 
tiide,  as  1  felt  compelled  to  do.  Thirty  miles*  walk  the 
day  before  and  twenty  that  (Jay  could  not  be  accom- 
pli>hed  hy  mv  already  exhausted  strength  without 
arute  sulVering;  but  the  goal  was  safety,  peace  and  rest, 
and  on  1  went. 

Past  a  picturesque  lamasery  with  nd  l)uilding8 
surrounded  Ly  tall  trees,  on  over  an  anh.'d  bridge, 
we  wended  our  way  toward  the  south  gate  of  the 
town.  My  escort  persuaded  mc  to  mount  my  poor, 
tired  horse  and  ride  into  the  place  in  state."  J ust 
outside  the  gate  we  paused  at  the  massive  doors  uf  the 
Roman  Catholic  Mission  to  inquire  the  whereabouts  of 
Mr.  Turner's  house.  It  was  certainly  amusing  and  yet 
pitiful  to  sec  my  boy  edge  away  from  the  door  after 


SAFE  AT  LAST 


387 


knocking,  lli-  !>a<l  a  mortal  lear  of  fori'igni'rs,  and 
evidently  expected  something  to  spring  out  of  the  door 

at  him.  .\  Cliiiiaiiian  answered  our  ini|uirv  ami  in- 
rormc(l  ii.<  tlial  Mr.  'I'uriur  lived  across  tlic  river.  As 
we  went  on  we  attraeted  verv  little  attention  even  in 
the  crowded,  nanow  streets,  for  Ta-chien-lu  has  a 
motley  population.  aii<!  no  one  snsjiected  that  1  w,i- 
otlier  than  a  Tii'etaii.  .M'ler  we  had  ero>seil  the 
hridge  a  yniiiig  Chinaman  ran  up  and  told  me  to  hide 
my  knife  and  chopsticks  that  hung  hy  my  girdle,  as 
thieves  mijrht  steal  them,  lie  thi'ii  le(l  u<  thidiiLrli  a 
narrow,  ilark  alh  y  uinh'rneath  a  Iioii-e,  where  I  di^- 
mnimted,  as  a  lama  called  out  in  stentorian  voice, 
"  What  are  you  doing  mounted  here?  "  Our  guide  was 
the  cook  who,  upon  arrival  at  the  I'u-ing-tang  (China 
inland  Mi>-ion  House),  ru.-lied  into  the  young  incn'.i 
room  telliiig  them  a  man  had  come,  not  knowing 
whether  1  was  a  Tibetan  or  a  European.  In  response 
io  his  excitedly  given  information,  two  missionaries, 
Messrs.  Amundsen  ami  Moves,  stood  in  the  outer  court- 
yard when  I  walked  through  the  entrance.  How  c'-'an 
they  looked  in  I  hincse  garl),  and  how  white  their  faces  I 
1  knew  I  was  not  clean,  yet,  conscious  of  my  dirtiness 
and  rags.  I  stood  in  their  [irci-ence  waiting  to  be  ad- 
dressed. But  no.  1  iiiu.-t  ^|)eak  first  ;  so  I  .said  in 
English,  "Is  this  Mv.  TunierV:"  and  Mr.  Moyes  re- 
plied "  Yes."  How  the  word  thrilled  me  through  and 
through.  It  was  the  first  l-mglish  word  I  had  heard 
since  that  never-to-be-l'orgotten  morning  two  months 
before  when  my  husband  disappeared  around  the  rock, 
and  the  speaker  was  the  first  white  stranger  I  had  seen 


3S8 


WITH  TlIK  TIIIKTAXS 


siiur  In  fuic  we  It  I'l  Taiikiir.  TIh  tc  was  nnotlicr  paiiM'. 
for  I  WHS  wi'll  iii^'li  ovcnumc  witli  I'liuttiori ;  then  1 
said,  "!  am  I»r.  I'ljiiliaii."  Mr.  AiiiuikIm'Ii  tlu'ii  iii- 
\ilcil  nil'  u|i-lairs  to  Mr-.  'I'lirmT'.-  a[iartiiu'iit>.  They 
liail  n  so  (liiiiilif(tiiiuli'tl  to  hear  tlie  voice  of  an  Kn<^- 
iisliwomaii  roiiu'  from  sucli  ii  Tilx'tanized  person  that 
at  lh>t  tlu'v  coiiltl  not  spi'ik  ai  .ill.  Tpon  rcai  liin^'  the 
door  of  the  dinin;;-rooin  Mr-,  'riiritcr  am-i'  \vliili>  Mi-. 
.\ninnil-i'i!  introduced  nu'.  Dear  Mrs.  'I'nrncr  askcii, 
•■  Ari»  vou  alone?"  "  Wlicn  have  yon  Inid  anything  to 
eat!'"  Such  thou^iht ful,  heantil'ul  can  !  'I'hen  shi- 
said.  "Come  into  tlw  nui-cry  and  (um1<  ui||  l)rin;,'  yon 
Konie  tea."  I  looked  at  the  clean  nialiiii;:,  >o  spotless, 
Jind  then  at  my  hoots,  which  onml  at  every  step,  leav- 
ing' dirl\'  mark-  licliiiid,  and  I  protested  tiiat  1  \va-  Ion 
diit\  I"  L'"  iiilii  >ni  h  a  i  le.ui  room.  P.iit  that  diii  imi 
matter,  I  ua>  u>li>rcd  in  only  to  luive  my  heart  torn 
by  the  pif^ht  of  little  Kenneth,  just  about  the  size  of 
my  darlin-;  Imhy  hoy,  for  whom  I  mourned.  Tea  in  a 
dainty  cup  and  some  cookic^s  wcro  ;j-i\cn  me  fur  I'e- 
I'rcslimiiil,  and  then  Mr.-.  Turner  oU'ered  me  a  place  to 
rest  until  supper;  hut  it  was  impossible  for  me  to  sit 
down  to  a  ell  an  table  with  cleanly  people,  and  1  a>ked 
for  a  liath  and  some  uiiderwi^ar.  in  res[)onse  to  whieli 
rsHjuest  every  mend)er  of  the  hon.<ehold  contriiiUli-d 
towards  my  chancre  of  raiment. 

I  liad  arriveil  in  Ta-chien-lu  just  two  months  after 
Mr.  IJijnhart"-  di.-appearanie.  Could  it  he  pos-il»li' 
that  1  had  .-urvived  that  lun^  and  perilous  jourmy 
alone  over  mountains  and  rivers,  surrounded  i)y  hos- 
tile people  and  subjected  to  hourly  danger  from  those 


SAKK  AT  LAST 


3«9 


who  pn)ft'!'s(Ml  I.)  1m-  my  ^riii'lc*?  \Va<  I  really  once 
mort'  in  a  Chri-iiaii  liniiic,  .-iirnMiiiiIcil  by  kind  I'rieiuls 
ami  (uiiiruil-r  V.-,  ii  lar-t,  ami  the  n-aliznl imi  >A'  il 
>^\v\\  111.'  wlii'ii  1  siw  niyscir  ik'livcri'd  I'r'Mii  the 

dirt  find  vermin  fif  Wfcks.  nml  lay  down  to  rcs^t  omc 
more  nti  il  .  leiin  Im  (I.  '  -atitudc  iillcd  my  heart,  and 
with  llio  IValaiisi  1  could  say: 

I'.lc-s  th.'  I      I,  ()  my  ■^<>''\- 

Ami  all  lliiiL  1.-,  williiii  n;c.  hlrs-.  lus  li'ilv  ii;iini-.    •    •  • 

W'liu  rcUft  UH'tli  thy  lifi' fnmi  di'^tnu'i  imi; 

Who  crownt  t  h  thcf  willi  hiviiiK-kindness  ami  leiidi  r  iiiercit  s; 

Whii  satisli«'th  thy  mouth  with  pdchI  things; 

So  that  thy  youth  Is  roncwi-d  likt'  the  i-agli-s. 

At  the  supper  tahle  Mr.  Turner  asked  me  what  I 
W(jiil(l  ]\kr  lo  kmiw  lir>l  aliout  tlie  -aii-ide  wurhl. 
Miice  i  had  t)e.  II  isolated  <.o  loii^.  Scarce!)  kiiuwin^' 
where  to  he^'in.  1  stammered  out  the  question,  Is 
<^ueen  Victoria  still  alive?"' 

I»i>aj)|)ninled  at  not  findinp  an  oilicial  ai  .Tyckuiido, 
I  iiuu-  lioped  to  he  able  to  ascertain  tlimu'rli  ollicial 
means  ^ome  deiliiile  news  ahout  my  husband's  fate. 
1  prepared  a  statement  of  the  case  and  wmt  it  to  the 
British  Consul  at  ( 'hnnu-K  iii.ir.  rKjii.  -ti;!/  liini  to  for- 
warii  the  ^ame  in  the  Duirli  and  I'.riti.-h  ministers  at 
Pckin.  to  be  proenled  by  them  to  the  T>ung-li  Yameu. 
For  six  months  I  waited  in  Ta-chien-hi  in  the  hope 
that  some  reiialde  reports  would  come  ilown  from  the 
interior  of  Tibd.  but  !  w  ■  ^  1  i  vain.  (Jn  my  arrival 
at  Ta-chien-lu  1  iiad  iuil  .  .;;  of  money,  but  kind 
friends  in  America  responded  iierously  to  my  need, 
and  I  wa.«i  able  to  get  down  lo  Shanghai,  thence  to 


390 


WITH  THE  TIBETAXS 


Tii'ii  l«in.  where  I  intiTvicWfil  Mr.  Kh<.Ih>I,  Minister 
for  til    Ni'tlii'ilaiiilH,  will)  assiiml  iiu'  thiit  he  would  <ln 

rvlliii'i'  Ml  Ins  |)ii\vt  i-  to  iitilmc  tlir  ('liiiic.-c  ^roviTii- 
nf  to  tii.ik"'  an  iii\i>ii;.Mti<>ii,  iind  adilrd  that  Sir 
(       ;i'  Mar.l-iiahl,  the  British  Minister.  wa-<  nrtinj,' 
jointly  with  him  in  tho  itiatttT.    1  would  fain  liavo 
ri  inaini-!     i  Chin.i  tn  await  the  rcult,  hut  liiy  health 
■.va-  unilerh!'!   '1.  frii'inU  \vi  re  |>re-.-in,i:  ine  to  return  to 
\nieriea.  .  r>..  Mr.  i\n<iliel  a.->ured  me  tliat  my  presonoo 
was  n<ii   ne'^essarv,  that    the   gnvorninent    would  do 
I  vi  rvihini:  lli.i'  mih!  lie  done.    I'lnlrr  il.ili  nf  M.iv 
''Mil).  ^'>■    KiHiiirl  received  a  rt'iiort  fnu';  i!ie  T-unL'di 
Vani'  ,1.  of  vvliii  M  the  following'  i>  a  Iran-latinu: 
"  With  reran!  to  Mr.  RijnhartV  ciw.  our  Vfiiiien 

rc]>eateilly    r(ir!'>'-|inni!e.I  ihe     floVernnl-  cif 

Szeclni'ii,  I'i:''  lin|ie'ial  i;'-i(l.'ni  in  'i'ihrl,  and  the 
Imperial  .\Lr<'nl  a!  Sitiinu.  who  ueic  all  i ii^l  ru<  ted  to 
invcstipato  and  report  upon  tho  matter.  Wo  wroto  you 
already  to  this  etlVct  on  March  l  i-t      W'>'  >in(.' 

roeeivf  il,  on  April  ".'1st,  u  dispatch  from  the  Imperial 
Apent  at  Sluing,  reading: 

•• '  Aliout  this  nuitter,  telegrams  have  come  to  hand 
from  the  Tsung-li  Yamen  ami  the  CMMmdr  of 
Szcchuen  instructing  me  to  h.'ld  an  inve  tig.ition. 
Tile  nc-e^sary  orders  ha\e  lieen  given.  .Veeordnig  to 
•nformation  received  from  the  Knglish  missionary 
Lo  Tcheng  (Laughton),  living  at  Sining  in  thi>  Fu 
vin  '  ui,  the  Thiteh  missionary  "l.i.i"  is  the  same  as 
Mi.  li'ijrdiart.  He  is  said  to  have  disappeareil  wiiiie 
traveling. 

"'The  missionary  T-o  had  found  a  priest  iy  the 


SAFL  AT  LAST  391 

name  of  I-shi-ni-ma,  who  madi?  inquirien  for  him. 
Upon  rfachirig  tho  hunk  of  t.ic  rurr  h.-  luanl  that  the 
iininU'r  was  toininittcd  h\  an  iiihahitaiil  of  "  Tu-fhia  " 
liy  lilt,'  nuint'  of  "  Chia-li-ya-sa."' 

*"  Whori'upon  1  (tli«'  Ap'iit)  sent  two  corni«'t<'nl 
|M  rst)ui  from  my  yaiiifi)  with  th»'  prio>t  '*  I-shi-t>i-ma  " 
III  "  'I'oM  Ilia."  ;ir.i!  •.'■ivt'  thi  iii  an  c-rDrt  nf  civil  aiiil 
niilitai'v  ollii  iaU  and  -iMin-.    'I'hnr  repurt  is: 

"  Afconlin^'  to  tlu'  |M  nji|,-  of  "  To-cbia."  tho  ohii'st 
inhabitants  of  tho  phico,  to^'othor  with  tho  j>riost 
'*  1-shi-ni-iua  had  gono  from  iiouso  to  honsc.  hi;t  man 
noi  ■.iinaii,  old  nor  vmi  ml:,  knew  ;m>t!iini:  about  a 
inurdiT  conimiltod  upon  a  l>iit(  !i  mi>-ioi.aiy  .  al^)  ihi  y 
tiid  not  know  "  t'hia-li-ya-sa."  Wo,  fho  pooplo  of 
*•  To-iliia,"  niinibor  lliivi'  hnndivd  ramiKcs.  lar^ro  anil 
.-mall,  ami  .-in'  all  ^ood  -iilijri-t.-:.  If  ii  -hould  !»■  di-- 
coviioil  hoi'oaftor  'hat  a  murdcror  of  ,i  iMimp.'an  is 
among  us,  wo  arc  willing  to  suifor  pun'  '.  ^ont. 

«"  I  (the  Agent)  feared  that  all  this  .  at  not  be 
(piito  true,  so  f  sont  .Mi(("s>ivoly  again  a  n\ajor.  Li 
Chill  Chung,  and  an  ollinal  writer.  '  Von  Ling,""  to  tlu- 
said  place  in  ordor  to  make  new  investigation.  Tho 
major  and  others  r(!ported  that  they  received  a  peti- 
tion from  I'onk'o,  the  chief  of  the  vilb.ge,  which  was 
to  th(<  sanio  .  tTect  as  above.  This  is  the  result  of  my 
investigation.' 

As  soon  as  wi;  receive  the  rejjly  from  Szechuen  and 
Tibet,  we  will  inform  your  Excellency. 
Pi-KiN.  May  2nd,  1900" 
Nt)  further  news  except  vague  native  reports  has 


392 


WITH  THE  TIBETAXS 


Ix'cn  rvc(  iv(>(l ;  nor  is  it  likely  that  I  shall  ever  hear 
anvtliing  iiidn-  dt'linite. 

The  reader  will  recognize  in  the  ahove  report  the 
name  of  Ishinima,  our  Tihetan  teacher  at  Kumbum. 
With  all  his  faults  he  had  a  sympathetic  heart,  for  as 
soon  as  he  heard  that  our  caravan  had  eome  to  grief 
in  the  interior  and  tliat  Mr.  Kijnhart  had  liecn  kiUed, 
he  offered  his  services  to  the  otlicial  at  Sining,  and 
made  the  long  journey  to  the  interior  in  search  of 
antlicntir  information  concerning  Iiis  friend.  Dear  old 
Ishiniinal  On  this  page,  which  will  forever  to  him  he 
sealed  and  unknown,  1  cannot  refrain  from  making 
some  slight  acknowledgment  of  his  services.  The 
sweet  associations  of  our  residence  in  the  lanmscrv  will 
never  be  forgotten  either  by  me  or  by  him.  and  altlHumdi 
his  dream  of  some  day  visiting  America  with  the  for- 
•ign  teacher"  is  now  shattered,  yet  it  comforts  me  to 
know  that  he  lias  heard  ilie  name  of  Jesus,  is  acquainted 
witli  the  teachings  of  the  Rib](\  and  jtravs  to  the 
"  Heavenly  HuIit  "  as  well  as  to  his  brazen  idol.  Wliile 
T  think  of  him  gratefully  and  pray  for  him  earnestly 
1  know  that  from  time  to  time  his  thought  will  wander 
to  the  far  interior  of  his  native  land,  where  sleejjs  tlie 
ilnst  of  two  whom  he  loved — and  also  to  me  in  the  dis- 
tant land  so  full  of  wonders,  lying  across  the  deep  blue 
ocean. 

It  is  natural  to  weigh  our  sacrifices  against  their 
results,  although  the  process  brings  little  consolation, 
for  so  often  in  our  superficial  view  the  results  are  mini- 
fied beyom'.  our  vision  and  the  sacrifice  fills  the  whole 
horizon.    Since  my  return  to   America  many  have 


SAFE  AT  LAST 


393 


raised  the  question,  "Was  the  t'au>o  worlb.  tlic  suffex^. 
iiig  aud  have  rc^uhs  jii>titie(l  ity"  Crities  of  inis- 
a!«k  it — tliOfe  who  lift  up  llieir  haiid.s  of  disap- 
proval when  a  life  is  given  for  the  sake  of  the  Gospel 
and  the  spiritual  uplifting  of  a  benighted  people,  yei 
lustily  applaud  the  .-oldier  who  spills  his  I)lood  on  the 
halllelield  in  the  caut^e  of  territorial  expansion  or  na- 
tional aggrandizement.  To  such  it  is  sufficient  to  say 
that  Christ  also  has  his  sohliets  wlio  are  willing  to  die 
for  his  cause  if  lu'ed  he,  in  the  belief  lliat  his  cause 
is  the  subliuiest  among  men,  and  who  are  eon  tent  to 
leave  the  results  with  him  knowing  that  the  Great  Cap- 
tain of  their  Salvation  will  in  his  own  time  lead  his 
hosts  unlo  ultimate  victory  and  a  kingdom  universal. 
Snch  is  the  optinii-ni  of  the  Gospel  and  such  the  failli 
and  courage  it  generates. 

Kind  Christian  frietuls  have  questioned  our  wisdom 
in  entering  Tibet.  Why  not  have  waiied,  they  ask,  un- 
til Tibet  was  opened  l)y  "  t!ie  powers'"  so  that  mis- 
sionaries could  go  in  undtr  government  protection? 
There  is  much  heart  in  the  question  but  little  logic. 
Christ  does  not  tell  his  disciples  to  wait,  but  to  go. 
We  arc  not  to  elioose  conditions,  we  are  to  meet  them. 
The  early  apostles  did  not  wait  until  tiie  IJoman  Em- 
pire was  "  opened  "  before  they  kindled  that  fire  that 
•'burned  to  the  water's  edge  all  round  the  Me(iit(^r- 
ranean,"  but  earrying  their  lives  in  their  hands  tiiey 
traveled  through  the  cities  of  Asia  Minor,  (ireeco  and 
finally  to  Rome,  delivering  their  message  in  the  very 
centers  of  paganism.  I'erseiutions  came  npon  thiMu 
from  every  side,  but  nothing  but  death  could  hinder 


394 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


their  progress  or  silence  their  message.  They  went  to 
glorioii!)  martyrdom  and  being  dead  they  have  never 
(•(■a>od  to  spoak.  Paul  says,  When  it  was  the  good 
])l('asure  of  (.iod  *  *  *  to  reveal  his  Son  in  me, 
that  I  might  preach  liim  among  the  Gentiles,  imme- 
diately T  conferred  not  wilii  flofh  and  blood."  ((ial. 
1,  in-lC.)  Tliou^li  lie  knew  bonds  ain'i  imprisonments 
awaited  him  in  every  city,  he  pursued  his  great  mis- 
sionary journeys  shrinking  not  from  Innumerable  per- 
ils and  even  glorying  in  Iiis  triltnlalions.  He  was  will- 
ing "not  to  be  iioiind  only,  but  also  to  die  at  ,leni- 
salem  for  tlie  name  of  the  Lord  Jesus  (Acts  xxi 
and  although  he  did  not  court  death  he  elected  to  go 
to  the  very  gates  of  the  Imp<'rial  f'ily  and  face  the 
judgment  seat  <ir  a  Caesar,  beiatise  of  liis  desire  lo 
picacb  Christ  even  at  Koine.  Instead  of  wailing  (ill 
the  countries  under  the  sway  of  IJonie  were  opened, 
the  apostle  went  forth  in  the  power  of  God  to  open 
them.  So  it  has  ever  been  in  the  history  of  Christi- 
anity. Had  tlie  missionaries  waited  lill  all  countries 
were  ready  and  willing  to  receive  them,  so  that  they 
could  go  forth  without  danger  and  sacrifice,  England 
might  still  have  been  the  home  of  barbarians,  Living- 
stone's footsteps  never  W(Uild  have  consecrated  tlie  Afri- 
can wilderness,  there  would  have  been  no  Carey  in 
India,  the  South  Sea  Islanders  would  still  be  sunk 
in  llicir  cannibalism,  and  the  thousands  of  Cliristianf? 
fiiund  in  pagan  and  heathen  lands  to-day  would  still 
l»e  in  the  darkness  and  the  .'shadow  of  death. 

Tibet,  like  other  lands  must  have  the  light.  The 
command  is  "  Go  preach  the  Gospel  to  every  creature." 


SAFE  AT  LA.ST 


395 


The  work  is  groat.  So  groat  that  bosido  its  groat iu>> 
:iiiv  ^acriliir  iiivuivcd  in  il^  aicomplishincut  -mall. 
Mr-.  Ii'ijnhart  l'n'(|U(Mitly  gave  o\iircs>ioii  to  his  one  l)uni- 
iiig  ambition  to  be  of  sorvico  in  ovangolizing  'I'lbot — 
wliother  by  his  life  or  his  death,  ho  said,  did  not  mai- 
ler to  liini.  With  David  Hraincni  lie  could  say.  "  1 
longed  to  be  a  flame  of  fire,  eontinually  glowing  in  the 
service  of  (ioil  and  bnilding  up  ('liri.-t"s  kingdom  to  my 
latest,  my  dying  raomonts."'  RomoiTil)oring  his  eonso- 
oration  1  too  can  be  strong  and  say.  a<  I  bring  the  storv 
lo  a  (  io-e,  •■  (iod  doctli  all  things  well — the  saoriiice  was 
not  too  great." 

The  results  of  tho  jonrnoy  heroin  desorihod  are  to  me 
of  tho  most  encouraging  characler.  Intere-I  in  Tilx't 
has  been  aro;i-ed  anionic  Cbristians  <pf  many  denomina- 
lions,  and  the  country  and  its  needs  have  been  brought 
prominently  to  the  notioe  of  several  mission  hoards.  Tne 
hope  which  my  husband  cherished  of  seeing  many  labor- 
er- 'm  forth  to  the  fi<'M  seems  nearer  realization  now 
than  in  his  lifetime.  The  s<'ed  sown  is  springing  up 
with  bright  })romise.  The  trumpets  are  being  blown 
about  the  walls  of  the  great  closed  land.  Soon  tlicy 
will  fall  tluit  the  heralds  of  the  Cro-s  may  enter  in.  1 
see  them  eoniing  ami  [  exclaim — How  beautiful  unon 
the  mountains  are  the  feet  of  them  that  preach  in  Tibet 
the  Gospel  of  Peace! 

While  at  Ta-chien-lu  I  was  much  impressed  by  the 
possibilities  for  missionary  work  all  along  the  eastern 
l)ordcr.  In  llie  town  itself,  splendid  work  is  being  d(me 
by  the  Tibetan  Band  of  the  China  Inland  Mission,  un- 
der the  leadership  of  :\tr.  Cecil  PolhiU  Turner.  Tho 


39C 


WITH  THE  TIBETANS 


Christian  ^Ii>isionurv  Alliance  have  a  work  at  Tao-choo, 
while  other  large  bortler  towiis,  such  as  Kuei-teh,  Tan- 

kii!'.  SuniriKiii  anil  otliciv.  dH'ci'  .-iilciulid  iulvaiitagc.-. 
.\\)\  oiu.'  of  tliciii  Would  make  a  good  center  for  Tiijelaii 
work.  Ta-chien-lu  is  especially  advantageous  as  so  many 
roads  branch  out  from  it,  and  Jyekundo,  situated  at 
tile  juncture  of  groat  roads  leading  to  the  border  and 
al>o  to  the  interior,  could  he  a  >]ilc!uliil  -talion  from 
wliieh  to  come  into  contact  with  several  tribi's.  In 
addition  to  regular  evangelistic  work  there  could  be 
e-talili,-lied  in  loniiect  im:  w  ilh  all  mi-sionai'v  enterprise 
on  tlie  liordei'.  industrial  m  hools  anil  nirdii  al  .-talion.-. 

Meanwliile  Kunibuui  and  'I'ankar,  where  we  labored 
three  years,  are  without  missionaries.  Only  the  wor- 
shi|i|)i'rs  of  Duddha  now  belmid  tlie  gleam  of  the  Ori- 
ental Sun  on  the  golden  roof-  of  the  lamaserv;  the 
great  earuvans  fiom  ilie  city  of  the  Dalai  Lama  pass 
through  the  border  town  with  no  one  to  tell  the  pil- 
grims of  the  "  Heavenly  Ruler."'  From  ten  thousand 
tongues  ainiil  the  tlulter  of  the  prayer-flags  and  the 
click  of  cylinders  i>  heard  the  mystic  invocation — Ont 
iiiani  yadme  hum,  but  there  is  no  Christian  altar.  The 
devotees  still  flock  to  reveic  tlu'  Sacred  Tree  and  wor- 
shi;-.  the  great  Butter  (iod.  and  amid  all  the  host  there 
is  not  one  witness  for  -lesus  Ciii'lstl  The  call  eonu's 
and  it  will  be  answered  soon,  1  feel  convinced.  And 
whoever  re>ii'iii(U  will  iind  maiiy  who  know  something 
of  Christianity,  who  have  eoi(ie>  of  the  Scriptures,  and 
remember  with  alfectiou  the  White  Teacher  who,  while 
he  was  with  them,  labored  for  their  good,  and  who  left 
them  never  to  return.    And  many  will  have  heard  of 


SAFE  AT  LAST 


397 


Ihc  lono  little  grave  uiulcr  the  huge  boulder  at  the  base 
of  the  Dang  La. 

«  *  Hi  If  « 

"To  tho  spirit  solcct  there  is  no  choice, 
lie  cannot  say.  This  will  I  do  or  that. 

A  hand  is  atretclieU  to  hiiii  from  out  the  dark, 

Which  ffrasping  without  question,  he  is  led 

Where  there  is  work  that  be  must  do  for  (iod. 
«  •  «  •  « 

To  the  t<iuf,'li  lii'art.s  that  pionoer  thoir  way 

And  break  a  pathway  to thoseunknown  realms, 

That  in  the  earth's  broad  shadow  lie  enthralled. 

Endurant'c  is  tlic  crowniiip'  (juality. 

And  patience  al)  the  passion  of  yrcal  licarlo.  ' 

—J.  R.  Lowell. 


GLOSSARY. 


Achi  Sister. 

Alum  A  teacher  amon^  mosloms. 

A^Mt  Father, 

Artjols  Excreta  of  animals. 

Aro  .   IJrothcr. 

Jki-xi  or  iwi'Xl  Monf^ol  chief. 

Ch4inij  Alcoholicliquor  mikue  by  Tibotans. 

Chang  Itwi  Long  road. 

Chcntni   Military  oflicial. 

Chorm-knci  tch  Iload  of  a  house,  shopkeeper 

Vhnma .     Edible  root. 

Chf/rten,  Monument. 

Churnin   ^  Dried  curds  of  buttermilk. 

Dalai  Liima  (irand  lama. 

Dlmo  dlmo  ing  Tibetan  salutation. 

DaiJiaak  Mongol  chief. 

Fa  Uii   Abbot. 

Fen-ktuil-Uii  Dried  manure  briclca. 

Fu^lng-tfum   C.  I.  M.  Chapel. 

Futai  Civil  official. 

Fu  yeh  Living  Buddha. 

Oelii  Yellow  sect  of  lamas. 

Qlvnbi  Controller  of  Official  escort. 

Oornba  Monastery. 

Heh-ho-8hnu<j   Black  priests. 

Hi)  iH  ii  Shallow  pot  for  fire. 

Huci-hucl   Mohammedan. 

398 


GLOSSARY 


399 


I'inij  ta-rm   Foreii^n  great  man. 

Ir-  iiuth  Wild  niiilf. 

•fit-Jii    Slrovflcss  jackot. 

•I'l-liiiit    Uoad  tnivt'lcd  by  tea  caravans, 

A"(i  die  Mohammedan. 

Kali  Slowly. 

JCang   Tho  liollow  In  nU'd  platform  in  use  as 

a  bod  and  divan. 

KnniH,   Abbot. 

Kim  ych  Secretary. 

Knrwa  Palace. 

Klidtn    Scarf  of  crromony. 

Khoim  or  k<>m  Tibetan  from  the  interior. 

Kiang  ...Discuss. 

Kotow  Strike  the  fun  hcad  to  the  ground  in 

wor.sbipor  honor. 

Kiiitn  mm  OfHcialgato. 

Kmhiik    Gentleman. 

KiL  Uti  Trouscr.s. 

iMina    Buddhist  ).ri<'s(. 

t^i   Ttma  Official  residence  of  the  abbot. 

 One-third  of  anEnj^lish  mile. 

l.iinij  tu  Wind  horse  made  of  paper. 

Mdmhn    Doctor. 

Mambafuyeh   Medical  buddha. 

Slarujtuan   Satin  pi  von  by  tiip  Emperor  to  the 

Monifol  princes. 

^liinl  Prayer,  rosary. 

^I'icn  Vermicelli. 

Of>o  Pile  of  stones  on  a  hill  or  pass. 

Ontss  Russian. 

I'onuhi   Nomadic  Tibetan  of  N.  E.  Tibet. 

Pao  rcn  A  man  who  acts  as  security. 

Peh  Sing  Subjects,  common  people. 

^ch  tsi  Coolie  who  carries  loads  on  his  back. 

Pflini;   English. 

Pcf-lu  Northern  road. 


400  G1.0S8ARY 

Pkin   Aprrrmont. 

Picrt  nhl  ..Small,  builod.  moat  dumplings. 

Pnntt),   Official. 

I'liiiliii   rh'cniio  Great  official. 

I'uh  M   8bop. 

PhUi    .  .    Woolen  cloth  made  by  TibotaM. 

Sliii   lunkct. 

Suim  Kiuni    Disciijlitiariun. 

Tn  kit   older  brother. 

Tantjut  Tibetan  of  lake  district. 

Tito  till   Offlci.il  of  third  ranl{. 

Thui  lo   Tower  nt'  Jcfcnci'. 

Ting  Civil  official  in  small  town. 

Trmij  hiKin..   Eastern  subur'). 

TkiiiiiIki   Parched  biirlcy  meal. 

Tmiii  ti   Grass  country. 

Tneh   Thief. 

7'tt»</  shih  Interpreter. 

TTIn     Relays  of  animals  supplied  l)y  Gov- 

ornnient  order. 
Waivj  iich   Prince  or  chief. 

Wn  rhtii.  khnUi   Scarfs  of  ceremony  in  parcels  of  Ave. 

>'"))ir/i   Home  and  otticoof  an  official. 

Ycsu  Ma'ghikn  Jesus  Christ. 


ov- 


